Development of O/W emulsions containing Euterpe oleracea extract and evaluation of photoprotective efficacy

Evaluation of the acute toxicity of ellagic acid and gallic acid incorporated in Poloxamer407® gel, in Zophobas morio larvae

Gallic acid (GA) has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, while ellagic acid (EA) demonstrates anticancer, antiviral and photoprotective activity. In this study, the combination of these substances incorporated into a poloxamer gel was tested to verify the individual effect of the substances, in addition to taking advantage of a probable complementary effect, aiming to provide additional therapeutic benefits. As a result of the incorporation, formulations containing GA, EA and GA + EA were obtained, which were evaluated for the effects of the Freeze-thaw cycle on pH, which revealed a significant decrease (p < 0.05) in most samples, including the vehicle (without drug) and the gel containing both drugs. No sample showed variation outside the normal pH range for the skin, with values ranging from 4.8 to 6.0. Regarding conductivity, the GA, EA and GA + EA formulations showed a reduction (p < 0.05) after the freeze-thaw cycle. The drug content in the formulations ranged from 95.86% to 101.35% initially to 91.30% to 101.51% after the freeze-thaw cycle. Regarding the drug release, the results revealed the following cumulative percentages: GA-3% - 92.58% after 1.5 h; AE-3% - 51.60% after 6 h; GA + EA (1.5% = 1.5%) - 99.91% after 2 h; GA + EA- (1.5% = 1.5%) released 57.06%, after 6 h. Regarding toxicity, it was observed that the group treated with GA showed a lower survival rate of the larvae (40%) at the dose 3000 mg/Kg in the formulation. Following the same trend, in the acute lethal concentration (ALC50) test performed using Zophobas morio larvae, an ALC50 of 2191.51 mg/Kg was observed for GA at 48 h. Melanin analysis showed a decrease in concentrations of 30 mg/Kg in the GA group, 3 mg/Kg of EA and 3, 300, 3000 mg/Kg of GA + EA, of the pure drugs. In the groups with the drugs incorporated into the gel, there was a significant decrease (P < 0.05) in melanin in the vehicle (gel), at concentrations of 300 and 3000 mg/Kg of GA and EA. On the other hand, in the combination of GA + EA, a reduction was observed at concentrations of 3 and 30 mg/Kg when compared to the control group. Thus, the gel showed good quality as a pharmaceutical formulation for topical use and low toxicity, making it promising for use in skin therapies.

Use of sisal industrial waste (Agave sisalana Perrine) in sustainable and multifunctional cosmetic products

OBJECTIVE

Sisal is a common stiff fibre produced around the world, corresponding to approximately 70% of the commercial production of all fibres of this type. The fibres are extracted from the leaves of Agave sisalana, from which approximately 4% of their weight is obtained, with the remaining 96% considered to be residues from the process of the sisal industry. The objective of this work was to obtain a polyphenol-enriched extract from the A. sisalana residue by ultrasonically assisted extraction, characterize it chemically, evaluate in vitro antioxidant activity, and develop safe and stable photoprotective formulations for future application in cosmetic preparations.

METHODS

Ultrasonic extraction of solid plant material was performed using 50% ethanol/water (v/v). The extract was chemically characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography equipment associated with classical molecular networking and evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity by different methodologies. Ten formulations were prepared, varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The 1.0% sisal extract was incorporated into the most stable formulations, and preliminary and accelerated stability were evaluated. The emulsions were investigated for safety by assessment of primary accumulated dermal irritability and sensitization and a dermatological clinical study of phototoxicity and photosensitization. The photoprotective formulations containing or not containing the extract that were stable after 90 days had their in vivo sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined.

RESULTS

Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as an extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a concentration of phenolic compounds (77.93 mg of equivalent to the standard gallic acid/g) and showed in vitro antioxidant activity. Emulsions without and with 1.0% sisal extract remained stable and safe. The addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract and offered protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelengths, and absorption of visible and blue light.

CONCLUSION

Based on the findings, the solid residue of A. sisalana may be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.

Photoprotective Efficacy of the Association of Rosmarinic Acid 0.1% with Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and Avobenzone

Innovative prototype sunscreens with reduced ultraviolet (UV) filters are required to achieve safer, more effective, and more environmentally friendly formulations. Rosmarinic acid (RA) is a phenolic antioxidant and potential candidate for multifunctional sunscreens. We used RA (0.1% w/w) in combination with avobenzone (2.5% and 5.0% w/w), a UVA filter, and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (10.0% w/w), a UVB filter, to evaluate in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength, photostability, and the in vivo SPF. RA, in vitro, improved the SPF of F2 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 2.5% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w) and F3 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 5.0% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w), which also presented broad-spectrum profiles; however, no expressive effects were observed for the critical wavelength (nm). By the in vivo trial, RA showed an increment in the F3 SPF value and maintained the F2 effectiveness, even when avobenzone was at 2.5%. Nonetheless, no increase in photostability was observed. Our findings suggest that incorporating natural molecules with antioxidant activities into sunscreens could decrease the proportion of conventional UV filters in the final product, with the advantage of providing other functional properties. Further investigation of higher RA concentrations, even from other sources, and other UV filter combinations could reveal important data for the development of multifunctional sunscreens.

Development of Olive Oil and α-Tocopherol Containing Emulsions Stabilized by FucoPol: Rheological and Textural Analyses

Biobased raw materials like natural polysaccharides are increasingly sought by the cosmetic industry for their valuable properties. Such biodegradable and usually non-cytotoxic biopolymers are commonly used in skin-care products as rheological modifiers, bioemulsifiers and/or bioactive ingredients. FucoPol is a natural polysaccharide with reported biocompatibility, emulsion-forming and stabilizing capacity, shear-thinning behavior and bioactivity (e.g., antioxidant capacity, wound healing ability) that potentiate its utilization in skin-care products. In this study, olive oil and α-tocopherol containing emulsions were stabilized with FucoPol. Although the presence of α-tocopherol negatively impacted the emulsions’ stability, it increased their emulsification index (EI). Moreover, FucoPol outperformed the commercial emulsifier Sepigel^® 305, under the tested conditions, with higher EI and higher stability under storage for 30 days. The formulation of FucoPol-based emulsions with olive oil and α-tocopherol was studied by Response Surface Methodology (RSM) that allowed the definition of the ingredients’ content to attain high emulsification. The RSM model established that α-tocopherol concentration had no significant impact on the EI within the tested ranges, with optimal emulsification for FucoPol concentration in the range 0.7–1.2 wt.% and olive oil contents of 20–30 wt.%. Formulations with 25 wt.% olive oil and either 0.5 or 2.0 wt.% α-tocopherol were emulsified with 1.0 wt.% or 0.7 wt.% FucoPol, respectively, resulting in oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. The emulsions had similar shear-thinning behavior, but the formulation with higher FucoPol content displayed higher apparent viscosity, higher consistency, as well as higher firmness, adhesiveness and cohesiveness, but lower spreadability. These findings show FucoPol’s high performance as an emulsifier for olive oil/α-tocopherol, which are supported by an effective impact on the physicochemical and structural characteristics of the emulsions. Hence, this natural polysaccharide is a potential alternative to other emulsifiers.

Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract associated with octocrylene, bisoctrizole and titanium dioxide: in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate safety and efficacy

OBJECTIVE

The harmful effects induced by ultraviolet exposition and the significant increment in skin cancer diagnosis confirm the necessity to develop effective and safe sunscreens. Limited efficacy and cutaneous adverse reactions of traditional formulations drove the incorporation of natural extracts into multifunctional sunscreens. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract (VME), that contains anthocyanins and flavonoids, is a potential candidate for such systems.

METHODS

Considering that, we performed in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF), photostability and safety of sunscreen samples containing VME.

RESULTS

As main results, the SPF was reduced in both in vitro and in vivo evaluation in the presence of VME, nonetheless, the samples were photostable and safe.

CONCLUSION

Further investigation is required to better understand the unexpected effects of VME over photoprotection, decreasing the SPF value. As a conclusion, even with interesting findings, we highlight the importance of case-by-case investigations to develop multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

The Modulatory Influence of Plant-Derived Compounds on Human Keratinocyte Function

The plant kingdom is a rich source of secondary metabolites with numerous properties, including the potential to modify keratinocyte biology. Keratinocytes are important epithelial cells that play a protective role against various chemical, physical and biological stimuli, and participate in reactive oxygen scavenging and inflammation and wound healing processes. The epidermal cell response may be modulated by phytochemicals via changes in signal transduction pathways. Plant extracts and single secondary compounds can possess a high antioxidant capacity and may suppress reactive oxygen species release, inhibit pro-apoptotic proteins and apoptosis and activate antioxidant enzymes in keratinocytes. Moreover, selected plant extracts and single compounds also exhibit anti-inflammatory properties and exposure may result in limited production of adhesion molecules, pro-inflammatory cytokines and chemokines in keratinocytes. In addition, plant extracts and single compounds may promote keratinocyte motility and proliferation via the regulation of growth factor production and enhance wound healing. While such plant compounds may modulate keratinocyte functions, further in vitro and in vivo studies are needed on their mechanisms of action, and more specific toxicity and clinical studies are needed to ensure their effectiveness and safety for use on human skin.

Plant-based active photoprotectants for sunscreens

Excessive exposure to the sun's radiation is the major exogenous mediator of skin damage, which accelerates skin ageing and increases the risk of developing skin cancer. Compounds with photoprotectant activity are extremely useful for decreasing the effect of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin; however, numerous sun filters, especially organic sunscreens, are allergenic. Therefore, the development of formulations containing plant extracts, which may be potentially safer, is extensively being explored. Plant-based cosmetics are commonly used to avoid skin ageing because they contain antioxidant agents that minimize free radical activity, and numerous studies have investigated the skin-protectant effects of related plant species. In addition to their antioxidant properties, plant-based cosmetics protect the skin against solar radiation because they contain polyphenols such as flavonoids and carotenoids. Therefore, this study aims to present a review of plant species commonly used in sunscreens to protect the skin against damage due to sunlight exposure.