Encapsulation of cosmetic active ingredients for topical application--a review

Sub-micron colloidosomes with tuneable cargo release prepared using epoxy-functional diblock copolymer nanoparticles

HYPOTHESIS

Pickering emulsions stabilized using epoxy-functional block copolymer nanoparticles should enable the formation of sub-micron colloidosomes that are stable with respect to Ostwald ripening and allow tuneable small-molecule cargo release.

EXPERIMENTS

Epoxy-functional diblock copolymer nanoparticles of 24 ± 4 nm were prepared via reversible addition-fragmentation chain transfer (RAFT)-mediated dispersion polymerization of methyl methacrylate (MMA) in n-dodecane. Sub-micron water-in-n-dodecane Pickering emulsions were prepared by high-pressure microfluidization. The epoxy groups were then ring-opened using 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) to prepare cross-linked colloidosomes. The colloidosomes survived removal of the aqueous phase using excess solvent. The silica shell thickness could be adjusted from 11 to 23 nm by varying the APTES/GlyMA molar ratio. The long-term stability of the colloidosomes was compared to precursor Pickering emulsions. Finally, the permeability of the colloidosomes was examined by encapsulation and release of a small molecule.

FINDINGS

The Pickering emulsion droplet diameter was reduced from 700 to 200 nm by increasing the salt concentration within the aqueous phase. In the absence of salt, emulsion droplets were unstable due to Ostwald ripening. However, emulsions prepared with 0.5 M NaCl are stable for at least one month. The cross-linked colloidosomes demonstrated much more stable than the precursor sub-micron emulsions prepared without salt. The precursor nanoemulsions exhibited complete release (>99 %) of an encapsulated dye, while higher APTES/GlyMA ratios resulted in much lower dye release, yielding nearly impermeable silica capsules that retained around 95 % of the dye.

Concentric Capillary Microfluidic Devices Designed for Robust Production of Multiple-Emulsion Droplets

Multiple emulsions are used as templates for producing functional microcapsules due to their unique core-shell geometry. Employing glass capillary devices with coaxial channels has proven effective in creating uniform multiple-emulsion droplets. However, the use of partially miscible fluids, crucial for microcapsule production, often results in clogging and disrupts the stability of these devices. Here, we introduce innovative capillary microfluidic devices with concentric capillary channels, specifically designed to optimize the production of multiple-emulsion droplets while mitigating issues of precipitation and clogging. The key aspect of these devices is their configuration of two or three concentrically aligned capillaries, which form separate, coaxial microchannels for fluid injection. This unique alignment, achieved through rotational adjustments that leverage the natural off-center positioning of tapered capillaries, facilitates the simultaneous coaxial injection of various fluids into a droplet-forming junction, significantly reducing fluid contact before emulsification. The devices, featuring double and triple concentric capillary channels, consistently produce highly uniform double-, triple-, and quadruple-emulsion droplets with precisely controlled diameters and layer thicknesses. The minimal contact between fluids prior to emulsification in these devices broadens the usable range of fluid combinations, heralding new possibilities in microcapsule development for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications.

Study on the Effect of a Sudden Jump in Wettability on Two-Component Liquid Flow in Sudden Contraction Devices

This study experimentally investigated the effect of wettability and sudden changes in flow area on liquid-liquid extraction operation. The wall surface wettability has been altered by connecting the glass capillary (hydrophilic) and poly(tetrafluoroethylene) (PTFE)-coated capillary (hydrophobic) together in four different arrangements. In all of the arrangements, a 2 mm inner diameter tube of 35 cm length is used upstream, while a 1 mm inner diameter tube of 35 cm length is used downstream. Acetic acid mixed with toluene and water is used as a test fluid. Various flow patterns are observed: slug, droplet, slug with the droplet, and encapsulated drop in slug. The extraction efficiency is observed to be the maximum when the hydrophobic tube is used upstream, followed by a hydrophilic tube downstream. Due to the contraction effect, the specific surface area of the slug increases from 1.6 to 2.7 times. Further numerical simulations have been run using open CFD software OpenFoam to see the inner flow physics at the maximum efficiency due to a sudden jump in wettability. The presence of a recirculating zone downstream just after the plane of area change leads to the formation of encapsulated drop and enhances circulation within the slug.

Carbomer Hydrogels with Microencapsulated α-Tocopherol: Focus on the Biocompatibility of the Microcapsules, Topical Application Attributes, and In Vitro Release Study

The microencapsulation of α-tocopherol based on the complex coacervation of low-molecular-weight chitosan (LMWC) and sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES) without harmful crosslinkers can provide biocompatible carriers that protect it from photodegradation and air oxidation. In this study, the influence of the microcapsule wall composition on carrier performance, compatibility with a high-water-content vehicle for topical application, and release of α-tocopherol were investigated. Although the absence of aldehyde crosslinkers decreased the encapsulation efficiency of α-tocopherol (~70%), the variation in the LMWC/SLES mass ratio (2:1 or 1:1) had no significant effect on the moisture content and microcapsule size. The prepared microcapsule-loaded carbomer hydrogels were soft semisolids with pseudoplastic flow behavior. The integrity of microcapsules embedded in the hydrogel was confirmed by light microscopy. The microcapsules reduced the pH, apparent viscosity, and hysteresis area of the hydrogels, while increasing their spreading ability on a flat inert surface and dispersion rate in artificial sweat. The in vitro release of α-tocopherol from crosslinker-free microcapsule-loaded hydrogels was diffusion-controlled. The release profile was influenced by the LMWC/SLES mass ratio, apparent viscosity, type of synthetic membrane, and acceptor medium composition. Better data quality for the model-independent analysis was achieved when a cellulose nitrate membrane and ethyl alcohol 60% w/w as acceptor medium were used.

Microcapsule fabrication by ATRP at the interface of non-aqueous emulsions

We present soft-template encapsulation of salt hydrate phase change materials (PCMs) using modified silica particles to both stabilize emulsions and serve as initiators for organocatalyzed photoredox ATRP. The resulting core-shell structures have high core loading and are robust to thermal cycling. Critically, this strategy eliminates the need for a reagent in the core phase, thus preserving purity, and offers the ability to tailor shell composition for desired applications.

Innovative Bioactive Products with Medicinal Value from Microalgae and Their Overall Process Optimization through the Implementation of Life Cycle Analysis-An Overview

Microalgae are being recognized as valuable sources of bioactive chemicals with important medical properties, attracting interest from multiple industries, such as food, feed, cosmetics, and medicines. This review study explores the extensive research on identifying important bioactive chemicals from microalgae, and choosing the best strains for nutraceutical manufacturing. It explores the most recent developments in recovery and formulation strategies for creating stable, high-purity, and quality end products for various industrial uses. This paper stresses the significance of using Life Cycle Analysis (LCA) as a strategic tool with which to improve the entire process. By incorporating LCA into decision-making processes, researchers and industry stakeholders can assess the environmental impact, cost-effectiveness, and sustainability of raw materials of several approaches. This comprehensive strategy will allow for the choosing of the most effective techniques, which in turn will promote sustainable practices for developing microalgae-based products. This review offers a detailed analysis of the bioactive compounds, strain selection methods, advanced processing techniques, and the incorporation of LCA. It will serve as a valuable resource for researchers and industry experts interested in utilizing microalgae for producing bioactive products with medicinal properties.

Microplastic label in microencapsulation field - Consequence of shell material selection

Plastics make our lives easier in many ways; however, if they are not appropriately disposed of or recycled, they may end up in the environment where they stay for centuries and degrade into smaller and smaller pieces, called microplastics. Each year, approximately 42000 tonnes of microplastics end up in the environment when products containing them are used. According to the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) one of the significant sources of microplastics are microcapsules formulated in home care and consumer care products. As part of the EU's plastics strategy, ECHA has proposed new regulations to ban intentionally added microplastics starting from 2022. It means that the current cross-linked microcapsules widely applied in consumer goods must be transformed into biodegradable shell capsules. The aim of this review is to provide the readers with a comprehensive and in-depth understanding of recent developments in the art of microencapsulation. Thus, considering the chemical structure of the capsule shell's materials, we discuss whether microcapsules should also be categorized as microplastic and therefore, feared and avoided or whether they should be used despite the persisting concern.

Development of spray-dried powder hand sanitiser with prolonged effectivity

Since the outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic, the use of hand sanitisers has become an inseparable part of our personal hygiene. However, the short-term effect and the need for frequent application are shortcomings that impair the overall protection. Another aspect is that repeated use of some products (typically alcohol-based) may cause skin irritation or eventually more severe health problems. This work proposes spray-drying as a suitable method for the preparation of swellable chitosan carriers, allowing for encapsulation and sustained release of antibacterial chlorhexidine digluconate as a model active substance. After application to hands, micron-sized particles preferentially accommodate space between epidermal ridges, protected against attrition. Thanks to their small size (d < 10 µm), particles are comfortable to carry since they are not recognisable by somatosensory receptors. The performance of formulations with various amounts of chlorhexidine and cross-linker was tested and compared with selected commercial disinfectants available on the Czech market (ethanol gel and alcoholic solution with chlorhexidine) against E. coli and S. epidermidis. The real-life performance was investigated with twelve volunteers performing various activities for up to 2 h. Finally, a replica of the human index finger with accurately captured micro-topology was proposed and compared with volunteers' fingers concerning the total amount of adhered and detached particles.

Study of molecular interaction and texture characteristics of hydrocolloid-mixed alginate microspheres: As a shell to encapsulate multiphase oil cores

This work investigates the molecular interaction of hydrocolloids (xanthan gum (XG), hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC), carbomer (CBM) and hymagic™-4D (HA)) with sodium alginate (SA) in microspheres in detail. The molecular interaction of hydrocolloids with SA are demonstrated by the rheological property analysis of the mixed solutions as well as the morphology structure and texture characteristics studies of the microspheres. It is found that the hydrocolloids (XG, HEC and CBM) with branches or capable to coil are able to form complex networks with SA through molecular interactions which hinders the free diffusion of calcium ions and changes the texture characteristics of microspheres. In addition, the mixed solutions (SA-XG and SA-HEC) with complex networks and do not have a chelating effect on calcium ions are used to form the shell of the microcapsules through droplet microfluidic technology, and stable with soft microcapsules encapsulating multiphase oil cores have been successfully prepared. At the same time, the textural properties of microcapsules are quantized, which are related to human sensory properties. The developed stable and soft microcapsules which have the properties of sensory comfort are expected to be applied in the personal care industry and a variety of fields.

The characteristics and biological activity enhancements of melatonin encapsulations for skin care product applications

Melatonin (MLT) exhibits antioxidant, ultraviolet protection, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. However, its effectiveness is limited by instability, a short half-life, and incompatible absorption. In this research, we encapsulated melatonin (MLT) in transfersomes (MT) and niosomes (MN) to enhance their properties and investigate their effects through in vitro cell assays using murine macrophages cells and human foreskin fibroblasts cells. The vesicle morphology, vesicle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, entrapment efficiency (EE%), attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) spectra, along with in vitro release, permeation profiles, and stability study were also evaluated. The results showed that both encapsulations displayed spherical morphology at the nanometric scale, their great physical stability and provided an EE% range of 58-78%. The MLT incorporation into the vesicle was confirmed by the ATR-FTIR spectra. Additionally, the encapsulation' release profiles fitted with the Higuchi model, indicating controlled release of melatonin. Furthermore, MT showed greater permeability than MN and MS including melatonin deposition. In cell assays, MT exhibited significantly higher nitric oxide inhibition and stimulation of collagen compared to MN and MS. Therefore, MT demonstrated the highest possibility for anti-inflammatory and collagen-stimulating activities that could be applied in pharmaceutical or anti-aging cosmetic products.

Silica-based microencapsulation used in topical dermatologic applications

Microencapsulation has received extensive attention because of its various applications. Since its inception in the 1940s, this technology has been used across several areas, including the chemical, food, and pharmaceutical industries. Over-the-counter skin products often contain ingredients that readily and unevenly degrade upon contact with the skin. Enclosing these substances within a silica shell can enhance their stability and better regulate their delivery onto and into the skin. Silica microencapsulation uses silica as the matrix material into which ingredients can be embedded to form microcapsules. The FDA recognizes amorphous silica as a safe inorganic excipient and recently approved two new topical therapies for the treatment of rosacea and acne. The first approved formulation uses a novel silica-based controlled vehicle delivery technology to improve the stability of two active ingredients that are normally not able to be used in the same formulation due to potential instability and drug degradation. The formulation contains 3.0% benzoyl peroxide (BPO) and 0.1% tretinoin topical cream to treat acne vulgaris in adults and pediatric patients. The second formulation contains silica microencapsulated 5.0% BPO topical cream to treat inflammatory rosacea lesions in adults. Both formulations use the same amorphous silica sol-gel microencapsulation technology to improve formulation stability and skin compatibility parameters.

A Methodology for Multivariate Investigation on the Effect of Acrylate Molecular Structure on the Mechanical Properties and Delivery Efficiency of Microcapsules via In Situ Polymerization

In the field of encapsulation, microcapsules containing perfume have emerged as effective vehicles for delivering active ingredients across various applications. The present study employed a multivariate analysis framework to examine polyacrylate microcapsules for household products synthesized using different acrylate monomers. The advanced multivariate approach allowed us to quantify critical properties such as the Molecular Weight between Cross-links (MWc), mechanical attributes, Encapsulation Efficiency (EE), and On-Fabric delivery. It is worth noting that the mechanical properties were gauged using a novel nanoindentation technique, which measures the Rupture Force per unit diameter (RFD). Both Encapsulation Efficiency and On-Fabric delivery were assessed using GC-MS. Our findings identified the optimal microcapsule system as one synthesized with 100% aromatic hexafunctional urethane acrylate, showcasing a 94.3% Encapsulation Efficiency and an optimal RFD of 85 N/mm. This system achieved an exemplary On-Fabric delivery rate of 307.5 nmol/L. In summary, this research provides crucial insights for customizing microcapsule design to achieve peak delivery efficiency. Furthermore, by designing acrylic monomers appropriately, there is potential to reduce the amount of active ingredients used, owing to enhanced delivery efficiency and the optimization of other microcapsule properties. Such advancements pave the way for more environmentally friendly and sustainable production processes in the fast-moving consumer goods industry.

Wettability-tuned silica particles for emulsion-templated microcapsules

Pickering emulsions play a significant role in generating advanced materials and have widespread application in personal care products, consumer goods, crude oil refining, energy management, etc. Herein, we report a class of wettability tuned silica-based Pickering emulsifiers which stabilize a diverse range of fluid-fluid interfaces: oil/water, ionic liquid/oil, and oil/oil, and their use to prepare microcapsules via interfacial polymerization. To alter particle wettability, colloidal suspensions of SiO2 particles (22 nm) were modified via silanization with reagents of varied hydrophilicity/hydrophobicity, giving particles that could be dispersed in solvents that became the continuous phase of the emulsions. To test the viability of this system as templates for the fabrication of composite materials, the different particle-stabilized emulsions were coupled with interfacial polymerization, leading to microcapsules with polyurea/silica shells. These results demonstrate that a single particle feedstock can be coupled with fundamental chemical transformation to access a versatile toolkit for the stabilization of diverse fluid interfaces and serve as a template for the preparation of hybrid architectures.

In Vitro and In Vivo Anti-Aging Effect of Coffee Berry Nanoliposomes

Encapsulation of bioactive compounds in the liposome system provides several advantages, such as enhancing the stability and lowering the toxicity of active compounds. Coffee berry extract (CBE) has previously been established to have in vitro anti-aging properties and to retard the aging of human skin. The purposes of this study were to encapsulate CBE in nanoliposomes and to assess its stability and in vitro anti-aging potential in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF), as well as in healthy human skin. In the HDF model, anti-aging potential was determined by nitric oxide (NO) and collagenase inhibition assays and a superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity assay, whereas in healthy human skin (in vivo), the skin elasticity and brightness were examined. First, liposomal CBE (L-CBE) was created with a particle size of 117.33 ± 2.91 nm, a polydispersity index (PDI) of 0.36 ± 0.03, and a zeta potential of -56.13 ± 1.87 mV. The percentages of encapsulation efficacy (%EE) and loading efficacy (%LE) were 71.26 ± 3.12% and 2.18 ± 0.18%, respectively. After undergoing a 12-week stability test, the L-CBE retained more phenolic content than the free CBE when stored at 4 °C, room temperature, and 45 °C. Compared to free CBE, the L-CBE demonstrated a more consistent, elevated, and prolonged release of phenolics from the lipid system. In human dermal fibroblasts, L-CBE showed lower toxicity, and at its maximum nontoxic concentration (10 mg/mL), it exhibited slightly higher anti-aging effects than CBE, including NO inhibition, enhanced SOD activity, and anti-collagenase activities. In clinical trials (30 volunteer subjects), none of the participants' skin was irritated when the L-CBE, the CBE, or base creams were applied. After 2 weeks of application, the L-CBE and CBE creams both demonstrated an improvement in skin elasticity and a reduction in melanin levels, and after 4 weeks, L-CBE cream showed a significantly greater improvement in skin elasticity and lightening. The results demonstrate that the encapsulation of the CBE in liposomal systems could increase its stability and skin penetration, reduce its toxicity, and maintain its anti-aging effect, which is powerful enough to be exploited in anti-aging and whitening agents for application in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.

Wall Materials for Encapsulating Bioactive Compounds via Spray-Drying: A Review

Spray-drying is a continuous encapsulation method that effectively preserves, stabilizes, and retards the degradation of bioactive compounds by encapsulating them within a wall material. The resulting capsules exhibit diverse characteristics influenced by factors such as operating conditions (e.g., air temperature and feed rate) and the interactions between the bioactive compounds and the wall material. This review aims to compile recent research (within the past 5 years) on spray-drying for bioactive compound encapsulation, emphasizing the significance of wall materials in spray-drying and their impact on encapsulation yield, efficiency, and capsule morphology.

Liquid-Liquid Encapsulation: Penetration vs. Trapping at a Liquid Interfacial Layer

Encapsulation protects vulnerable cores in an aggressive environment and imparts desirable functionalities to the overall encapsulated cargo, including control of mechanical properties, release kinetics, and targeted delivery. Liquid-liquid encapsulation to create such capsules, where a liquid layer (shell) is used to wrap another liquid (core), is an attractive value proposition for ultrafast encapsulation (∼100 ms). Here, we demonstrate a robust framework for stable liquid-liquid encapsulation. Wrapping is achieved by simple impingement of a target core (in liquid form) on top of an interfacial layer of another shell-forming liquid floating on a host liquid bath. Poly(dimethylsiloxane) (PDMS) is chosen as the shell-forming liquid due to its biocompatibility, physicochemical stability, heat curability, and acceptability as both a drug excipient and food additive. Depending on the kinetic energy of the impinging core droplet, encapsulation is accomplished by either of the two pathways─necking-driven complete interfacial penetration and subsequent generation of encapsulated droplets inside the host bath or trapping inside the interfacial layer. Combining thermodynamic argument with experimental demonstration, we show that the interfacially trapped state, which results in a low kinetic energy of impact, is also an encapsulated state where the core droplet is wholly enclosed inside the floating interfacial layer. Therefore, despite being impact-driven, our method remains kinetic energy independent and minimally restrictive. We describe the underlying interfacial evolution behind encapsulation and experimentally identify a nondimensional regime of occurrence for the two pathways mentioned above. Successful encapsulation by either path offers efficient long-term protection of the encased cores in aggressive surroundings (e.g., protection of honey/maple syrup inside a water bath despite their miscibility). We enable the generation of multifunctional compound droplets via interfacial trapping, where multiple core droplets with different compositions are encapsulated within the same wrapping shell. Further, we demonstrate the practical utility of the interfacially trapped state by showing successful heat-curing of the shell and subsequent extraction of the capsule. The cured capsules are sufficiently robust and remain stable under normal handling.

The Effect of Aromatic Plant Extracts Encapsulated in Alginate on the Bioactivity, Textural Characteristics and Shelf Life of Yogurt

The article investigated the antioxidant and antimicrobial activity of extracts from two aromatic plants—Satureja hortensis L. (SE) and Rosmarinus officinalis L. (RE), encapsulated in alginate, on—yogurt properties. The encapsulation efficiency was controlled by FTIR and SEM analysis. In both extracts, the individual polyphenol content was determined by HPLC–DAD–ESI-MS. The total polyphenol content and the antioxidant activity were spectrophotometrically quantified. The antimicrobial properties of SE and RE against gram-positive bacteria (Bacillus cereus, Enterococcus faecalis, Staphylococcus aureus, Geobacillus stearothermophilus), gram-negative bacteria (Escherichia coli, Acinetobacter baumannii, Salmonella abony) and yeasts (Candida albicans) were analyzed in vitro. The encapsulated extracts were used to prepare the functional concentrated yogurt. It was established that the addition of 0.30–0.45% microencapsulated plant extracts caused the inhibition of the post-fermentation process, the improvement of the textural parameters of the yogurt during storage, thus the shelf life of the yogurt increased by seven days, compared to the yogurt simple. Mutual information analysis was applied to establish the correlation between the concentration of the encapsulated extracts on the sensory, physical-chemical, and textural characteristics of the yogurt.

Colorimetric porous microspheres of natural sodium alginate for chilled pork visual monitoring

Chilled meat is subject to deterioration by various factors during storage and distribution. Therefore, it is very important to monitor the quality of meat in real time. This study aims at preparing a natural, low-cost indicating microsphere to visualize the freshness of meat by the combination of sodium alginate (SA) and chitosan with 0-10 wt% anthocyanins derived from chokeberry as a colorant using ionic gelation method. Size-controlled porous SA microspheres with were further constructed by freeze-drying and their physicochemical properties were characterized by SEM, FTIR, DSC, and XRD. Results showed that microspheres with 1 wt% anthocyanin showed good responsiveness to different concentrations of ammonia and were able to effectively identify the freshness of chilled meat by color change. Principal component analysis showed that the color difference of the porous microspheres was highly significantly correlated with pH, TVB-N, total plate count and thiobarbituric acid active substance (p < 0.01), suggesting a visible satisfactory capability of the microspheres to identify the spoilage in pork. Principal component analysis showed that the color difference of the porous microspheres was highly significantly correlated with pH, TVB-N, total plate count and thiobarbituric acid active substance (P < 0.01), suggesting a visible satisfactory capability of the microspheres to identify the spoilage in pork.

The Recent Advances in the Utility of Microbial Lipases: A Review

Lipases are versatile biocatalysts and are used in different bioconversion reactions. Microbial lipases are currently attracting a great amount of attention due to the rapid advancement of enzyme technology and its practical application in a variety of industrial processes. The current review provides updated information on the different sources of microbial lipases, such as fungi, bacteria, and yeast, their classical and modern purification techniques, including precipitation and chromatographic separation, the immunopurification technique, the reversed micellar system, aqueous two-phase system (ATPS), aqueous two-phase flotation (ATPF), and the use of microbial lipases in different industries, e.g., the food, textile, leather, cosmetics, paper, and detergent industries. Furthermore, the article provides a critical analysis of lipase-producing microbes, distinguished from the previously published reviews, and illustrates the use of lipases in biosensors, biodiesel production, and tea processing, and their role in bioremediation and racemization.

Randomized comparative double-blind study assessing the difference between topically applied microbiome supporting skincare versus conventional skincare on the facial microbiome in correlation to biophysical skin parameters

BACKGROUND

There are trillions of live bacteria, of around 1000 different species, living in human skin which are considered essential for the balance and barrier function of the skin. The gut microbiome has been a subject of extensive research and evidence shows that the gut flora is affected by preservatives and processed foods. In conventional skincare, preservatives are used, and this raises the question of how it affects the skin flora and its balance.

METHODS

A randomized double-blind study on 14 healthy volunteers ages 23-45 years old were advised to use microbiome-supporting (MS) products on one cheek and benchmark (BM) products on the other cheek daily for 3 weeks. To investigate how the skin was affected, the skin microbiome was analysed using 16 S rRNA sequencing and biophysical parameters were assessed using an Antera 3D camera. Measurements were performed before and after the 3 weeks of using the products.

RESULTS

The use of MS products for 3 weeks significantly increased the total number of reads mapped to unique bacterial species (p < 0.05) and the number of different unique species (p < 0.05). In addition, the use of MS products significantly reduced redness (p < 0.05) and improved skin texture (p < 0.01). The use of BM products showed no significant difference in any of the parameters except improved skin texture (p < 0.05). Additionally, the MS side showed a significantly improved diversity (p < 0.05) compared with the BM side. The four major phyla found were, similarly to previous findings by others, Actinobacteria, Firmicutes, Proteobacteria and Bacteroidetes. Some of the most prevalent species were Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Pseudonomas aeruginosa.

CONCLUSION

The findings of this study showed significant improvements in the microbiome and biophysical parameters within 3 weeks of using MS skincare alone, while BM skincare only gave significantly improved skin roughness. Importantly, the MS side gave a significantly improved bacterial Shannon diversity (p < 0.05) compared with the BM side. Regarding the biophysical parameters, the MS skincare gave significant improvements in several parameters compared with baseline. However, they were not yet significant when compared to using BM skincare and therefore a larger study population will be needed. Importantly, this is the first study to investigate how preservatives affect the facial microbiome in vivo and has raised a need for further investigation. These results together with further studies can lead to innovations within the cosmetic industry that promote healthier skin.

Biodegradable Microcapsules of Poly(Butylene Adipate-co-Terephthalate) (PBAT) as Isocyanate Carriers and the Effect of the Process Parameters

Poly(butylene adipate-co-terephthalate) (PBAT), a biodegradable flexible, and tough polymer is herein used, for the first time, to encapsulate and protect isocyanate derivatives. Isocyanates are essential building blocks widely employed in the chemical industry for the production of high-performing materials. Microencapsulation of isocyanates eliminates the risks associated with their direct handling and protects them from moisture. In light of this, and having in mind eco-innovative products and sustainability, we present a straightforward process to encapsulate isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) using this biodegradable polymer. Spherical and core-shell microcapsules (MCs) were produced by an emulsion system combined with the solvent evaporation method. The MCs present a regular surface, without holes or cracks, with a thin shell and high isocyanate loadings, up to 79 wt%. Additionally, the MCs showed very good isocyanate protection if not dispersed in organic or aqueous solutions. Effects of various process parameters were systematically studied, showing that a higher stirring speed (1000 rpm) and emulsifier amount (2.5 g), as well as a smaller PBAT amount (1.60 g), lead to smaller MCs and narrower size distribution.

Data-driven kinematics-consistent model order reduction of fluid-structure interaction problems: application to deformable microcapsules in a Stokes flow

In this paper, we present a generic approach of a dynamical data-driven model order reduction technique for three-dimensional fluid-structure interaction problems. A low-order continuous linear differential system is identified from snapshot solutions of a high-fidelity solver. The reduced order model (ROM) uses different ingredients like proper orthogonal decomposition (POD), dynamic mode decomposition (DMD) and Tikhonov-based robust identification techniques. An interpolation method is used to predict the capsule dynamics for any value of the governing non-dimensional parameters that are not in the training database. Then a dynamical system is built from the predicted solution. Numerical evidence shows the ability of the reduced model to predict the time-evolution of the capsule deformation from its initial state, whatever the parameter values. Accuracy and stability properties of the resulting low-order dynamical system are analysed numerically. The numerical experiments show a very good agreement, measured in terms of modified Hausdorff distance between capsule solutions of the full-order and low-order models both in the case of confined and unconfined flows. This work is a first milestone to move towards real time simulation of fluid-structure problems, which can be extended to non-linear low-order systems to account for strong material and flow non-linearities. It is a valuable innovation tool for rapid design and for the development of innovative devices.

Recent Advancements in Natural Plant Colorants Used for Hair Dye Applications: A Review

There is an on-going demand in recent years for safer and "greener" hair coloring agents with the global consumer awareness of the adverse effects of synthetic hair dyes. The belief in sustainability and health benefits has focused the attention of the scientific community towards natural colorants that serve to replace their synthetic toxic counterparts. This review article encompasses the historical applications of a vast array of natural plant hair dyes and summarizes the possible coloration mechanisms (direct dyeing and mordant dyeing). Current information on phytochemicals (quinones, tannins, flavonoids, indigo, curcuminoids and carotenoids) used for hair dyeing are summarized, including their botanical sources, color chemistry and biological/toxicological activities. A particular focus is given on research into new natural hair dye sources along with eco-friendly, robust and cost-effective technologies for their processing and applications, such as the synthetic biology approach for colorant production, encapsulation techniques for stabilization and the development of inorganic nanocarriers. In addition, innovative in vitro approaches for the toxicological assessments of natural hair dye cosmetics are highlighted.

Recent development in nanoencapsulation and delivery of natural bioactives through chitosan scaffolds for various biological applications

Nowadays, nano/micro-encapsulation as a pioneering technique may significantly improve the bioavailability and durability of Natural bioactives. For this purpose, chitosan as a bioactive cationic natural polysaccharide has been frequently used as a carrier because of its distinct chemical and biological properties, including polycationic nature, biocompatibility, and biodegradability. Moreover, polysaccharide-based nano/micro-formulations are a new and extensive trend in scientific research and development in the disciplines of biomedicine, bioorganic/ medicinal chemistry, pharmaceutics, agrochemistry, and the food industry. It promises a new paradigm in drug delivery systems and nanocarrier formulations. This review aims to summarize current developments in approaches for designing innovative chitosan micro/nano-matrix, with an emphasis on the encapsulation of natural bioactives. The special emphasis led to a detailed integrative scientific achievement of the functionalities and abilities for encapsulating natural bioactives and mechanisms regulated in vitro/in vivo release in various biological/physiological environments.

Microparticulate and nanotechnology mediated drug delivery system for the delivery of herbal extracts

There has been a growing interest in the scientific community to explore the complete potential of phytoconstituents, herbal or plant-based ingredients owing to a range of benefits they bring along. The herbal plants accommodate many phytoconstituents that are responsible for various activities such as anti-oxidant, antimicrobial, anticancer, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, hepatoprotective, etc. However, these phytoconstituents are highly sensitive to several environmental and physiological factors such as pH, oxygen, heat, temperature, humidity, stomach acid, enzymes, and light. Hence, there is need for the development of a drug delivery system that can protect the phytoconstituents from both internal and external conditions. In this regard, a microparticulate drug delivery system is considered amongst the ideal choice owing to its small size, ability to protect the environment-sensitive active constituents, in achieving sustained drug delivery, targeted drug delivery, protection of the drug from physiological conditions, minimizing drug-related side effects, etc.

Impact of Freeze- and Spray-Drying Microencapsulation Techniques on β-Glucan Powder Biological Activity: A Comparative Study

The study compares the impact of freeze- and spray-drying (FD, SD) microencapsulation methods on the content of β-glucan, total polyphenols (TP), total flavonoids (TF), phenolic acids (PA), and antioxidant activity (AA) in commercially β-glucan powder (Pleurotus ostreatus) using maltodextrin as a carrier. Morphology (scanning electron microscopy- SEM), yield, moisture content (MC), and water activity (aw) were also evaluated in the samples. Our examinations revealed significant structural differences between powders microencapsulated by the drying methods. As compared to non-encapsulated powder, the SD powder with yield of 44.38 ± 0.55% exhibited more reduced (p < 0.05) values for aw (0.456 ± 0.001) and MC (8.90 ± 0.44%) than the FD one (yield: 27.97 ± 0.33%; aw: 0.506 ± 0.002; MC: 11.30 ± 0.28%). In addition, the highest values for β-glucan content (72.39 ± 0.38%), TPC (3.40 ± 0.17 mg GAE/g), and TFC (3.07 ± 0.29 mg QE/g) have been detected in the SD powder. Our results allow for the conclusion that the SD microencapsulation method using maltodextrin seems to be more powerful in terms of the β-glucan powder yield and its contents of β-glucan, TP, and TF as compared to the FD technique.

Preparation and Characterization of Methyl Jasmonate Microcapsules and Their Preserving Effects on Postharvest Potato Tuber

Potato tubers tend to sprout during long-term storage, resulting in quality deterioration and shortened shelf life. Restrictions on the use of chlorpropham, the major potato sprout suppressant, have led to a need to seek alternative methods. In this study, the effects of methyl jasmonate (MeJA) solutions and MeJA microcapsules on sprouting and other key quality attributes of the potato tuber were investigated. The results showed that the MeJA solution was most effective at 300 μmol L⁻¹ according to TOPSIS analysis. To prepare MeJA microcapsules, the optimal formulation is with 0.04% emulsifier, 2.5% sodium alginate, 0.5% chitosan and 3% CaCl₂. Compared to 300 μmol L⁻¹ MeJA solution, MeJA microcapsules consumed a lower dose of MeJA but demonstrated a better retaining effect on the overall quality attributes of potato tubers. MeJA microcapsules are promising agents for the preservation of postharvest potato tubers.

Algal Polysaccharides-Based Hydrogels: Extraction, Synthesis, Characterization, and Applications

Hydrogels are three-dimensional crosslinked hydrophilic polymer networks with great potential in drug delivery, tissue engineering, wound dressing, agrochemicals application, food packaging, and cosmetics. However, conventional synthetic polymer hydrogels may be hazardous and have poor biocompatibility and biodegradability. Algal polysaccharides are abundant natural products with biocompatible and biodegradable properties. Polysaccharides and their derivatives also possess unique features such as physicochemical properties, hydrophilicity, mechanical strength, and tunable functionality. As such, algal polysaccharides have been widely exploited as building blocks in the fabrication of polysaccharide-based hydrogels through physical and/or chemical crosslinking. In this review, we discuss the extraction and characterization of polysaccharides derived from algae. This review focuses on recent advances in synthesis and applications of algal polysaccharides-based hydrogels. Additionally, we discuss the techno-economic analyses of chitosan and acrylic acid-based hydrogels, drawing attention to the importance of such analyses for hydrogels. Finally, the future prospects of algal polysaccharides-based hydrogels are outlined.

Osmosis-Mediated Microfluidic Production of Submillimeter-Sized Capsules with an Ultrathin Shell for Cosmetic Applications

There is a demand for submillimeter-sized capsules with an ultrathin shell with high visibility and no tactile sensation after release for cosmetic applications. However, neither bulk emulsification nor droplet microfluidics can directly produce such capsules in a controlled manner. Herein, we report the microfluidic production of submillimeter-sized capsules with a spacious lumen and ultrathin biodegradable shell through osmotic inflation of water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) double-emulsion drops. Monodisperse double-emulsion drops are produced with a capillary microfluidic device to have an organic solution of poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid) (PLGA) in the middle oil layer. Hypotonic conditions inflate the drops, leading to core volume expansion and oil-layer thickness reduction. Afterward, the oil layer is consolidated to the PLGA shell through solvent evaporation. The degree of inflation is controllable with the osmotic pressure. With a strong hypotonic condition, the capsule radius increases up to 330 μm and the shell thickness decreases to 1 μm so that the ratio of the thickness to radius is as small as 0.006. The large capsules with an ultrathin shell readily release their encapsulant under an external force by shell rupture. In the mechanical test of single capsules, the threshold strain for shell rupture is reduced from 75 to 12%, and the threshold stress is decreased by two orders for highly inflated capsules in comparison with noninflated ones. During the shell rupture, the tactile sensation of capsules gradually disappears as the capsules lose volume and the residual shells are ultrathin.

Contribution of Nanoscience Research in Antioxidants Delivery Used in Nutricosmetic Sector

Nanoscience applications in the food and cosmetic industry offer many potential benefits for consumers and society. Nanotechnologies permit the manipulation of matter at the nanoscale level, resulting in new properties and characteristics useful in food and cosmetic production, processing, packaging, and storage. Nanotechnology protects sensitive bioactive compounds, improves their bioavailability and water solubility, guarantees their release at a site of action, avoids contact with other constituents, and masks unpleasant taste. Biopolymeric nanoparticles, nanofibers, nanoemulsions, nanocapsules, and colloids are delivery systems used to produce food supplements and cosmetics. There are no barriers to nanoscience applications in food supplements and cosmetic industries, although the toxicity of nano-sized delivery systems is not clear. The physicochemical and toxicological characterization of nanoscale delivery systems used by the nutricosmeceutic industry is reviewed in this work.

Sustainability in Skin Care: Incorporation of Avocado Peel Extracts in Topical Formulations

The avocado peel is an agro-industrial by-product that has exhibited a massive increase in its production in the last few years. The reuse and valorisation of this by-product are essential since its disposal raises environmental concerns. In the present study, ethanolic extracts of avocado peels of the Hass variety were obtained, for three extraction times (1.5 h, 3 h and 4 h) and analysed for their antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Antioxidant evaluations of the extracts revealed that the extraction time of 1.5 h exhibited the best results amongst the three, with a DPPH inhibition percentage of 93.92 ± 1.29 and an IC₅₀ percentage, the necessary concentration of the extract to inhibit 50% of DPPH, of 37.30 ± 1.00. The antibacterial capacity of the extracts was evaluated and it was revealed that they were able to inhibit the growth and development of bacteria of the Staphylococcus family. The obtained extract was incorporated in two types of cosmetic formulations (oil-in-water and water-in-oil) and their stability was evaluated and compared with formulations containing synthetic preservatives (BHT and phenoxyethanol). The results of the stability evaluation suggest that the avocado peel extract has the potential to be incorporated in both types of emulsions, acting as an antioxidant and antibacterial agent, proving it to be a viable option to reduce/replace the use of synthetic preservatives. Furthermore, the avocado peel extract proved to be more effective and stable in oil-in-water emulsions. These results highlight the possibility of obtaining sustainable cosmetics, significantly reducing the negative impacts on the environment by the incorporation of extracts sourced from the avocado peel, an interesting source of phenolic compounds, an abundant and low-cost by-product.

A Potential Valorization Strategy of Wine Industry by-Products and Their Application in Cosmetics-Case Study: Grape Pomace and Grapeseed

Grape pomace and grapeseed are agro-industrial by-products, whose inadequate treatment generates socioeconomic and environmental concerns. Nevertheless, it is possible to valorize them by extracting their bioactive compounds, such as antioxidants (phenolic compounds), vitamin E and fatty acids. The bioactive compounds were extracted using solid-liquid extraction. The yields for phenolic compounds were 18.4 ± 0.4% for grape pomace, and 17.4 ± 0.4%, for grapeseed. For the oil, the yields were 13.3 ± 0.2% and 14.5 ± 0.3% for grape pomace and grapeseed. Antioxidant capacity was assessed by the assay with 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and showed that phenolic extract has higher antioxidant capacity than the oils. Grape pomace and grapeseed extracts exhibit, correspondingly, values of 90.8 ± 0.8 and 87.5 ± 0.5 of DPPH inhibition and IC₅₀ of 48.9 ± 0.5 and 55.9 ± 0.7 μg_extract·mL_DPPH⁻¹. The antimicrobial capacity was assessed by the disk diffusion test, and revealed that, phenolic extracts inhibit the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis. The obtained extracts were incorporated in 10 face cream formulations, with slight modifications in quantities of formulation stabilizers. Their stability was studied for 35 days, and this revealed the possibility of incorporating extracts and oils obtained from by-products as antioxidants in cosmetics, and replacing synthetic ones. As a future recommendation, microencapsulation of the extracts should be performed, in order to increase their stability.

Simultaneous Distillation–Extraction of Essential Oils from Rosmarinus officinalis L

The present study describes a procedure to isolate essential oils from Rosmarinus officinalis L. using simultaneous distillation–extraction (SDE). Rosmarinus officinalis L. can be used for medicinal purposes, as well in the cooking and cosmetics industries. SDE technique extraction combines a steam distillation combined with a continuous extraction using a solvent or a co-solvent mixture, providing faster extractions with low extraction solvent volumes. The effect of the solvent nature and the extraction time on the simultaneous distillation–extraction efficiency was evaluated. The best performance was achieved using pentane as a solvent for 1 h of extraction. The essential oils obtained by simultaneous distillation–extraction extracts were analyzed by gas chromatography with flame ionization detection (GC-FID). Extraction efficiencies ranged from 40 to 70% for the majority of the compounds tested, and the precision (measured by the relative standard deviation) varied between 6 and 35%. Among the compounds analyzed the most abundant in the Rosmarinus officinalis L. sample were 1,8-cineole, (-) –borneol, α-pinene, (S)-(-)- α–terpineol, (-)-bornyl acetate, linalool, and 2,2,6-trimethylcyclohexanone. The SDE method proved to be a suitable option for obtaining extracts free from cuticular waxes or chlorophylls.

Encapsulation of volatile compounds in liquid media: Fragrances, flavors, and essential oils in commercial formulations

The first marketed example of the application of microcapsules dates back to 1957. Since then, microencapsulation techniques and knowledge have progressed in a plethora of technological fields, and efforts have been directed toward the design of progressively more efficient carriers. The protection of payloads from the exposure to unfavorable environments indeed grants enhanced efficacy, safety, and stability of encapsulated species while allowing for a fine tuning of their release profile and longer lasting beneficial effects. Perfumes or, more generally, active-loaded microcapsules are nowadays present in a very large number of consumer products. Commercial products currently make use of rigid, stable polymer-based microcapsules with excellent release properties. However, this type of microcapsules does not meet certain sustainability requirements such as biocompatibility and biodegradability: the leaking via wastewater contributes to the alarming phenomenon of microplastic pollution with about 4% of total microplastic in the environment. Therefore, there is a need to address new issues which have been emerging in relation to the poor environmental profile of such materials. The progresses in some of the main application fields of microencapsulation, such as household care, toiletries, cosmetics, food, and pesticides are reviewed herein. The main technologies employed in microcapsules production and the mechanisms underlying the release of actives are also discussed. Both the advantages and disadvantages of every technique have been considered to allow a careful choice of the most suitable technique for a specific target application and prepare the ground for novel ideas and approaches for encapsulation strategies that we expect to be proposed within the next years.

Preparation of Multicore Colloidosomes: Nanoparticle-Assembled Capsules with Adjustable Size, Internal Structure, and Functionalities for Oil Encapsulation

Colloidosomes, also known as Pickering emulsion capsules, have attracted attention for encapsulation of hydrophilic and hydrophobic actives. However, current preparation methods are limited to single core structures and require the use of modified/engineered nanoparticles for forming the shell. Here, we report a fast, simple, and versatile method for producing multi-oil core silica colloidosomes via salt-driven assembly of purely hydrophilic commercial nanoparticles dispersed within an oil-in-water-in-oil (O/W/O) double emulsion template. The internal structure and overall diameter of the capsules can be adjusted by altering the primary and secondary emulsification conditions. With this approach, 7-35 μm diameter multicore colloidosomes containing 0.9-4.2 μm large oil cores were produced. The capsules can easily be functionalized depending on the type of nanoparticles used in the preparation process. Here, metal oxide nanoparticles, such as Fe₃O₄, TiO₂, and ZnO, were successfully incorporated within the structure, conferring specific functional properties (i.e., magnetism and photocatalysis) to the final microcapsules. These capsules can also be ruptured by using ultrasound, enabling easy access to the internal core environments. Therefore, we believe this work offers a promising approach for producing multicore colloidosomes with adjustable structure and functionalities for the encapsulation of hydrophobic actives.

Rosmarinic Acid and Ulvan from Terrestrial and Marine Sources in Anti-Microbial Bionanosystems and Biomaterials

In order to increase their sustainability, antimicrobial renewable molecules are fundamental additions to consumer goods. Rosmarinic acid is extracted from several terrestrial plants and represents an effective anti-microbial agent. Ulvan, extracted from algae, is an anti-microbial polysaccharide. The present review is dedicated to discussing the sources and the extraction methodologies for obtaining rosmarinic acid and ulvan. Moreover, the preparation of bioanosystems, integrating the two molecules with organic or inorganic substrates, are reviewed as methodologies to increase their effectiveness and stability. Finally, the possibility of preparing functional biomaterials and anti-microbial final products is discussed, considering scientific literature. The performed analysis indicated that the production of both molecules is not yet performed with mature industrial technologies. Nevertheless, both molecules could potentially be used in the packaging, biomedical, pharmaceutical, cosmetic, sanitary and personal care sectors, despite some research being required for developing functional materials with specific properties to pave the way for many more applications.

Pintado M, Fernandes JC, Ramos ÓL. Novel Micro- and Nanocellulose-Based Delivery Systems for Liposoluble Compounds

Poor aqueous solubility of bioactive compounds is becoming a pronounced challenge in the development of bioactive formulations. Numerous liposoluble compounds have very interesting biological activities, but their low water solubility, stability, and bioavailability restrict their applications. To overcome these limitations there is a need to use enabling delivering strategies, which often demand new carrier materials. Cellulose and its micro- and nanostructures are promising carriers with unique features. In this context, this review describes the fast-growing field of micro- and nanocellulose based delivery systems with a focus on the release of liposoluble bioactive compounds. The state of research on this field is reviewed in this article, which also covers the chemistry, preparation, properties, and applications of micro- and nanocellulose based delivery systems. Although there are promising perspectives for introducing these materials into various fields, aspects of safety and toxicity must be revealed and are discussed in this review. The impact of gastrointestinal conditions on the systems and on the bioavailability of the bioactive compounds are also addressed in this review. This article helps to unveil the whole panorama of micro- and nanocellulose as delivery systems for liposoluble compounds, showing that these represent a great promise in a wide range of applications.

Astaxanthin Delivery Systems for Skin Application: A Review

Astaxanthin (AST) is a biomolecule known for its powerful antioxidant effect, which is considered of great importance in biochemical research and has great potential for application in cosmetics, as well as food products that are beneficial to human health and medicines. Unfortunately, its poor solubility in water, chemical instability, and low oral bioavailability make its applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical field a major challenge for the development of new products. To favor the search for alternatives to enhance and make possible the use of AST in formulations, this article aimed to review the scientific data on its application in delivery systems. The search was made in databases without time restriction, using keywords such as astaxanthin, delivery systems, skin, cosmetic, topical, and dermal. All delivery systems found, such as liposomes, particulate systems, inclusion complexes, emulsions, and films, presented peculiar advantages able to enhance AST properties, among which are stability, antioxidant potential, biological activities, and drug release. This survey showed that further studies are needed for the industrial development of new AST-containing cosmetics and topical formulations.

Microfluidic production of monodisperse emulsions for cosmetics

Droplet-based microfluidic technology has enabled the production of emulsions with high monodispersity in sizes ranging from a few to hundreds of micrometers. Taking advantage of this technology, attempts to generate monodisperse emulsion drops with high drug loading capacity, ordered interfacial structure, and multi-functionality have been made in the cosmetics industry. In this article, we introduce the practicality of the droplet-based microfluidic approach to the cosmetic industry in terms of innovation in productivity and marketability. Furthermore, we summarize some recent advances in the production of emulsion drops with enhanced mechanical interfacial stability. Finally, we discuss the future prospects of microfluidic technology in accordance with consumers' needs and industrial attributes.

Biocompatible Wax-Based Microcapsules with Hermetic Sealing for Thermally Triggered Release of Actives

We present a microfluidic approach that utilizes temperature-responsive and biocompatible palm oil as the shell material in microcapsules to simultaneously achieve hermetic sealing as well as on-demand temperature-triggered release of the encapsulated actives. Unlike common paraffin waxes (e.g., eicosane), microcapsule shells comprising palm oil do not form pores or cracks during freezing and provide a hermetic seal, a nearly perfect seal that separates the core containing the actives from the surrounding environment over a prolonged period of time. This allows effective isolation and protection of complex cargoes such as small molecules with high diffusivity, strong acids, and cosmetic actives including niacinamide. Moreover, the palm oil shell melts above the defined melting temperature, allowing the on-demand release of the encapsulated actives. Furthermore, palm oil is biocompatible, is edible, and leaves a minimal footprint when used in personal care and cosmetic products, offering new perspectives in the design of microcapsules for cosmetic applications.

Antimicrobial Actions and Applications of Chitosan

Chitosan is a naturally originating product that can be applied in many areas due to its biocompatibility, biodegradability, and nontoxic properties. The broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity of chitosan offers great commercial potential for this product. Nevertheless, the antimicrobial activity of chitosan varies, because this activity is associated with its physicochemical characteristics and depends on the type of microorganism. In this review article, the fundamental properties, modes of antimicrobial action, and antimicrobial effects-related factors of chitosan are discussed. We further summarize how microorganisms genetically respond to chitosan. Finally, applications of chitosan-based biomaterials, such as nanoparticles and films, in combination with current clinical antibiotics or antifungal drugs, are also addressed.