New Trends in Cosmetics: By-Products of Plant Origin and Their Potential Use as Cosmetic Active Ingredients

The influence of Leucidal, a natural cosmetic preservative, on fibroblast and keratinocytes. Studies on cells and on model membrane systems

The aim of this work was to investigate the influence of Leucidal® Liquid (abbr. Leucidal), which is recommended as a natural cosmetic ingredient of antimicrobial properties, on model membranes of keratinocytes and fibroblasts. The toxicity tests on cell lines were also performed to allow for a more detailed discussion of the results. As model membrane systems the lipid Langmuir monolayers were applied. During the investigations, the surface pressure/area measurements, penetration studies and Brewster Angle Microscopy (BAM) visualization were performed for one component and mixed lipid monolayers. It was evidenced that at the membrane - corresponding conditions, the components of Leucidal do not penetrate either model keratinocyte and fibroblast membranes or one component films composed of the major lipids of skin cell membranes. Leucidal makes these systems slightly more expanded and less stable, however this is not reflected in the changes in the film morphology. Only the ceramide systems were sensitive to the presence of Leucidal, i.e. the incorporation of Leucidal components manifested well in the decrease of the films' condensation and alterations in their morphology. The tests on cells demonstrated that Leucidal is non toxic for these types of cells at the concentrations suggested by the producer. A thorough comparison of these results with those published for bacteria model membranes enabled us to discuss them in the context of the mechanism of action of Leucidal components. It was concluded that Leucidal components are of low affinity to the skin cellular model membranes of low content of Leucidal-sensitive ceramides and are not toxic for fibroblast and keratinocyte cell lines. Moreover, the lipid composition of the membrane and its molecular organization can be important targets for Leucidal components, decisive from the point of view of the activity and selectivity of the studied composition.

Potential Use of Tomato Peel, a Rich Source of Lycopene, for Cancer Treatment

Tomatoes are well known for their impressive nutritional value among vegetables. However, the industrial processing of tomatoes generates a significant amount of waste. Specifically, 10% to 18% of the raw materials used in tomato processing become waste. This waste can seriously affect ecosystems, such as freshwater bodies, wetlands, rivers, and other natural environments, if not properly managed. Interestingly, tomato waste, specifically the skin, contains lycopene, a potent antioxidant and antimutagenic that offers a range of health benefits. This makes it a valuable ingredient in industries such as food and cosmetics. In addition, researchers are exploring the potential of lycopene in the treatment of various types of cancer. This systematic review, guided by the PRISMA 2020 methodology, examined studies exploring the possibility of tomato peel as a source of lycopene and carotenoids for cancer treatment. The findings suggest that tomato peel extracts exhibit promising anticancer properties, underscoring the need for further investigation of possible therapeutic applications. The compiled literature reveals significant potential for using tomato peel to create new cancer treatments, which could potentially revolutionize the field of oncology. This underscores the importance of continued research and exploration, emphasizing the urgency and importance of the scientific community's contribution to this promising area of study.

Exploring Phenolic Compounds in Crop By-Products for Cosmetic Efficacy

Phenolic compounds represent a group of secondary metabolites that serve essential functions in plants. Beyond their positive impact on plants, these phenolic metabolites, often referred to as polyphenols, possess a range of biological properties that can promote skin health. Scientific research indicates that topically using phenolics derived from plants can be advantageous, but their activity and stability highly depend on storage of the source material and the extraction method. These compounds have the ability to relieve symptoms and hinder the progression of different skin diseases. Because they come from natural sources and have minimal toxicity, phenolic compounds show potential in addressing the causes and effects of skin aging, skin diseases, and various types of skin damage, such as wounds and burns. Hence, this review provides extensive information on the particular crops from which by-product phenolic compounds can be sourced, also emphasizing the need to conduct research according to proper plant material storage practices and the choice of the best extracting method, along with an examination of their specific functions and the mechanisms by which they act to protect skin.

From Water for Water: PEDOT:PSS-Chitosan Beads for Sustainable Dyes Adsorption

This study investigates the viability of developing chitosan-based hydrogels derived from waste shrimp shells for the removal of methylene blue and methyl orange, thereby transforming food waste into advanced materials for environmental remediation. Despite chitosan-based adsorbents being conventionally considered ideal for the removal of negative pollutants, through targeted functionalization with poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene): polystyrene sulfonate (PEDOT:PSS) at varying concentrations, we successfully enhance the hydrogels' efficacy in also adsorbing positively charged adsorbates. Specifically, the incorporation of PEDOT:PSS at a concentration of 10% v/v emerges as a critical factor in facilitating the robust adsorption of dyes. In the case of the anionic dye methyl orange (MO, 10-5 M), the percentage of removed dye passed from 47% (for beads made of only chitosan) to 66% (for beads made of chitosan-PEDOT:PSS 10%), while, in the case of the cationic dye methylene blue (MB, 10-5 M), the percentage of removed dye passed from 52 to 100%. At the basis of this enhancement, there is an adsorption mechanism resulting from the interplay between electrostatic forces and π-π interactions. Furthermore, the synthesized functionalized hydrogels exhibit remarkable stability and reusability (at least five consecutive cycles) in the case of MB, paving the way for the development of cost-effective and sustainable adsorbents. This study highlights the potential of repurposing waste materials for environmental benefits, introducing an innovative approach to address the challenges regarding water pollution.

Anti-Aging Potential of a Novel Ingredient Derived from Sugarcane Straw Extract (SSE)

Natural and sustainable anti-aging ingredients have gained attention from the cosmetic industry. This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of a sugarcane straw extract-based (SSE) cosmetic ingredient. First, cytotoxicity tests were assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblast cell lines, and sensitization was carried out through the direct peptide reactivity assay. Subsequently, various anti-aging properties were investigated, including inhibiting skin aging-related enzymes, promoting elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and anti-pollution activity. Finally, a permeability assay using a synthetic membrane resembling skin was conducted. The results demonstrated that the SSE ingredient effectively inhibited elastase (55%), collagenase (25%), and tyrosinase (47%) while promoting hyaluronic acid production at non-cytotoxic and low-sensitizer concentrations. Moreover, it reduced the inflammatory response provoked by urban pollution, as evidenced by decreased levels of IL1-α and IL-6. However, it was observed that the phenolic compounds predominantly reached the skin's surface, indicating a limited ability to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. Therefore, it can be concluded that the SSE ingredient holds anti-aging properties, albeit with limited penetration into deeper skin layers. Further research and formulation advancements are needed to optimize the ingredient's ability to reach and exert its effects in deeper skin layers.

Effect of Electron-Beam Irradiation on Functional Compounds and Biological Activities in Peanut Shells

Peanut shells, rich in antioxidants, remain underutilized due to limited research. The present study investigated the changes in the functional compound content and skin aging-related enzyme inhibitory activities of peanut shells by electron-beam treatment with different sample states and irradiation doses. In addition, phenolic compounds in the peanut shells were identified and quantified using ultra-performance liquid chromatography with ion mobility mass spectrometry-quadrupole time-of-flight and high-performance liquid chromatography with a photodiode array detector, respectively. Total phenolic compound content in solid treatment gradually increased from 110.31 to 189.03 mg gallic acid equivalent/g as the irradiation dose increased. Additionally, electron-beam irradiation significantly increased 5,7-dihydroxychrome, eriodictyol, and luteolin content in the solid treatment compared to the control. However, liquid treatment was less effective in terms of functional compound content compared to the solid treatment. The enhanced functional compound content in the solid treatment clearly augmented the antioxidant activity of the peanut shells irradiated with an electron-beam. Similarly, electron-beam irradiation substantially increased collagenase and elastase inhibitory activities in the solid treatment. Mutagenicity assay confirmed the stability of toxicity associated with the electron-beam irradiation. In conclusion, electron-beam-irradiated peanut shells could serve as an important by-product with potential applications in functional cosmetic materials.

From Industrial Food Waste to Bioactive Ingredients: A Review on the Sustainable Management and Transformation of Plant-Derived Food Waste

According to the United Nations, approximately one-third of the food produced for human consumption is wasted. The actual linear "Take-Make-Dispose" model is nowadays obsolete and uneconomical for societies and the environment, while circular thinking in production systems and its effective adoption offers new opportunities and benefits. Following the "Waste Framework Directive" (2008/98/CE), the European Green Deal, and the actual Circular Economy Action Plan, when prevention is not possible, recovering an unavoidable food waste as a by-product represents a most promising pathway. Using last year's by-products, which are rich in nutrients and bioactive compounds, such as dietary fiber, polyphenols, and peptides, offer a wake-up call to the nutraceutical and cosmetic industry to invest and develop value-added products generated from food waste ingredients.

The Influence of Antioxidant Plant Extracts on the Oxidation of O/W Emulsions

The demand for natural cosmetics has steadily increased in recent years. However, challenges occur especially in quality preservation regarding oxidative spoilage of natural cosmetic products, as the use of synthetic preservatives and antioxidants is limited. Therefore, it is important to find nature-based ingredients to ensure shelf life in natural cosmetic formulations. As a result, potential is seen in the use of plant-based antioxidant extracts. The aim of this work was to determine the suitability of the method combination by measuring the antioxidant activity, oxygen concentration, and volatile oxidation products via gas chromatography (hexanal) for the characterization of the influence of some plant extracts on the oxidative stability of natural cosmetic emulsions. Plant extracts of Riesling (Vitis vinifera) pomace, apple (Malus domestica) pomace, coffee (Coffea arabica) grounds, cocoa (Theobroma cacao) husk, and coffee (Coffea arabica) powder extract were incorporated in stable O/W emulsion formulations, while an emulsion without extract functioned as blank. Afterwards, the emulsions were subjected to 3-month accelerated storage tests with and without light exposure. Their oxygen uptake was investigated, and headspace gas chromatography measurements were performed to detect the fatty acid oxidation products formed during oxidative processes in the samples. The results showed that all emulsion samples under light exposure had a higher oxygen uptake and an increase in the characteristic fatty acid oxidation products compared with those stored under light exclusion. However, differences in oxygen uptake under light exposure were observed depending on the plant extract. Therefore, for O/W emulsions, the daily oxygen consumption rate correlated exponentially with the antioxidant activity, and the hexanal concentration correlated linearly with the daily oxygen consumption rate.

The Chemical Variability, Nutraceutical Value, and Food-Industry and Cosmetic Applications of Citrus Plants: A Critical Review

Citrus fruits occupy an important position in the context of the fruit trade, considering that both fresh fruits and processed products are produced on a large scale. Citrus fruits are recognized as an essential component of the human diet, thanks to their high content of beneficial nutrients such as vitamins, minerals, terpenes, flavonoids, coumarins and dietary fibers. Among these, a wide range of positive biological activities are attributed to terpenes and flavonoids derivatives. In this review, a list of bibliographic reports (from 2015 onwards) on the phytochemical composition, beneficial effects and potential applications of citrus fruits and their by-products is systematically summarized. In detail, information regarding the nutraceutical and medicinal value closely linked to the presence of numerous bioactive metabolites and their growing use in the food industry and food packaging, also considering any technological strategies such as encapsulation to guarantee their stability over time, were evaluated. In addition, since citrus fruit, as well as its by-products, are interesting alternatives for the reformulation of natural cosmetic products, the sector of the cosmetic industry is also explored. More in-depth knowledge of the latest information in this field will contribute to future conscious use of citrus fruits.

Ecodesigned Formulations with Tomato Pomace Extracts

Tomato pomace (TP) has previously been identified as a coproduct that is rich in bioactive molecules, with potential beneficial effects for health. For tomato pomace that is composed of the skin, seeds and fibers, the challenge is to recover the molecules of interest trapped in the biopolymers. The use of deep eutectic solvents to extract metabolites from vegetable materials could present some advantages. Four natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) were synthesized and characterized by infrared spectroscopy, thermogravimetry (TG) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The TP was treated by maceration at moderate temperatures with the NaDESs. We identified 39 extracted molecules by HPLC–DAD, which revealed an abundance of hydroxy/methoxy flavones, flavanols, flavonols, phenolic acids, carotenoids and tannins, as well as a certain selectivity in the extracted molecules. Four cosmetic formulations that included the NaDESs were prepared. The NaDESs showed film-forming properties, which were harnessed for the final formulations, thanks to their biocompatibilities. Finally, the coupling of the extraction and formulation is a way to preserve the quality of the extracts and prepare ecodesigned formulations.

An Overview on Wood Waste Valorization as Biopolymers and Biocomposites: Definition, Classification, Production, Properties and Applications

Bio-based polymers, obtained from natural biomass, are nowadays considered good candidates for the replacement of traditional fossil-derived plastics. The need for substituting traditional synthetic plastics is mainly driven by many concerns about their detrimental effects on the environment and human health. The most innovative way to produce bioplastics involves the use of raw materials derived from wastes. Raw materials are of vital importance for human and animal health and due to their economic and environmental benefits. Among these, wood waste is gaining popularity as an innovative raw material for biopolymer manufacturing. On the other hand, the use of wastes as a source to produce biopolymers and biocomposites is still under development and the processing methods are currently being studied in order to reach a high reproducibility and thus increase the yield of production. This study therefore aimed to cover the current developments in the classification, manufacturing, performances and fields of application of bio-based polymers, especially focusing on wood waste sources. The work was carried out using both a descriptive and an analytical methodology: first, a description of the state of art as it exists at present was reported, then the available information was analyzed to make a critical evaluation of the results. A second way to employ wood scraps involves their use as bio-reinforcements for composites; therefore, the increase in the mechanical response obtained by the addition of wood waste in different bio-based matrices was explored in this work. Results showed an increase in Young's modulus up to 9 GPa for wood-reinforced PLA and up to 6 GPa for wood-reinforced PHA.

Sourcing New Ingredients for Organic Cosmetics: Phytochemicals of Filipendula vulgaris Flower Extracts

Plant extracts are well known for their beneficial cosmetic properties based on bioactive phytochemicals with highly demonstrated antimicrobial and antioxidant capacities as phenolic compounds. This work presents the polyphenolic characterization of different extracts from organically grown Filipendula vulgaris. An ultrasound-assisted extraction procedure is proposed for obtaining ethanolic extracts at the laboratory level, both from dried and fresh plants, to be compared with those obtained by classical flower processing techniques for cosmetic purposes. The individual quantification of target phenolic compounds was carried out using liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). The results revealed the presence of 24 phenolic compounds in the analyzed samples, ranging in concentrations from 0.1 to 71.64 µg g−1. The total phenolic content (TPC) ranging from 1163 to 6114 mg GAE L−1, and the antioxidant activity (AA), from 6 to 52 mmol TRE L−1, were also evaluated. The differences were established between the plant material and extraction technique.

Effect of Atmospheric-Pressure Plasma on Functional Compounds and Physiological Activities in Peanut Shells

Peanut (Arachis hypogaea L.) shell, an abundant by-product of peanut production, contains a complex combination of organic compounds, including flavonoids. Changes in the total phenolic content, flavonoid content, antioxidant capacities, and skin aging-related enzyme (tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase)-inhibitory activities of peanut shell were investigated after treatment in pressure swing reactors under controlled gas conditions using surface dielectric barrier discharge with different plasma (NOx and O3) and temperature (25 and 150 °C) treatments. Plasma treatment under ozone-rich conditions at 150 °C significantly affected the total phenolic (270.70 mg gallic acid equivalent (GAE)/g) and flavonoid (120.02 mg catechin equivalent (CE)/g) contents of peanut shell compared with the control (253.94 and 117.74 mg CE/g, respectively) (p < 0.05). In addition, with the same treatment, an increase in functional compound content clearly enhanced the antioxidant activities of components in peanut shell extracts. However, the NOx-rich treatment was significantly less effective than the O3 treatment (p < 0.05) in terms of the total phenolic content, flavonoid content, and antioxidant activities. Similarly, peanut shells treated in the reactor under O3-rich plasma conditions at 150 ℃ had higher tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase inhibition rates (55.72%, 85.69%, and 86.43%, respectively) compared to the control (35.81%, 80.78%, and 83.53%, respectively). Our findings revealed that a reactor operated with O3-rich plasma-activated gas at 150 °C was better-suited for producing functional industrial materials from the by-products of peanuts.

Assessment of Cucurbita spp. Peel Extracts as Potential Sources of Active Substances for Skin Care and Dermatology

By-products of cultivated plants are one of the major environmental concerns worldwide. Due to the high concentration of bioactive chemicals, such waste may be considered hazardous due to the interference with the plant growth, deterioration of the drinking water quality or toxic effects on sensitive marine organisms. Moreover, plant-derived by-products, with proper handling, may represent a low-cost source of bioactive compounds potentially important for pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. The aim of the study was to evaluate the phytochemical composition, antioxidant activity, the influence of tyrosinase activity, in vitro sun protecting factor and cytotoxicity of 15 extracts from peels of five cultivars of Cucurbita maxima and C. moschata. The extracts were prepared using “green solvents” (water, 50% propylene glycol, and 20% ethanol) and ultrasound-assisted extraction. The performed analysis showed that the peel extracts from various cultivars differ significantly in respect to the phytochemical content and activity. The type of solvent also had a significant impact on the extract’s composition and bioactivity. Aqueous peel extracts contained the highest amounts of flavonoids, showed the greatest antioxidant potential and the most significant in vitro SPF values. In vitro studies showed that the analyzed peel extracts are not cytotoxic for human keratinocytes up to the concentration of 1000 µg/mL and thus might be considered as non-irritant for the skin. The study confirms the potential application of peel extracts from Cucurbita spp. cultivars in cosmetic products.

Circular bioeconomy for olive oil waste and by-product valorisation: Actors' strategies and conditions in the Mediterranean area

The circular economy and bioeconomy can contribute to transitioning towards more sustainable production and consumption in the olive oil sector. This article is the first to analyse multi-actor strategies and multi-level socio-economic conditions for olive oil waste and by-product valorisation in the Mediterranean area using circular bioeconomy principles. Government policies, the strategies of corporations and farmers and consumers' perceptions are discussed, and various methods are applied, such as desk reviews, case studies and quantitative and qualitative surveys. The findings show strong aspirations for improved sustainability in the olive industry. Furthermore, waste and by-product valorisation strategies foster the creation of innovative practices. However, a common regulatory framework, public financial measures, new circular business models using innovative technologies, multi-actor collaboration and increased consumer awareness of the circular economy and new olive oil waste-based products are necessary for more efficient and sustainable use of olive resources. The policy and management recommendations presented in this study may aid in improving and innovating frameworks and practices for better sustainable management of valuable olive resources.

Chemical Constituents and Biological Activities of Ficus tikoua Bureau

Ficus tikoua Bureau (F. tikoua Bur.) is a perennial woody vine in the Moraceae family that has been used as a traditional folk medicine for centuries to treat many diseases such as chronic bronchitis, diarrhea, dysentery, rheumatism, and other inflammation-related diseases in certain parts of China, India, Vietnam, and Laos. This medicinal plant contains beneficial secondary metabolites belonging to various chemical classes, including flavonoids, phenolics, terpenoids, steroids, coumarins, and alkaloids. In this review, we have summarized the natural compounds isolated from F. tikoua Bur. and their biological effects.

Anti-inflammatory and anti-aggregating effects of rangpur in the first trimester of growth: ultra-performance liquid chromatography-electrospray mass spectrometry profile and quantification of hesperidin

BACKGROUND

Citrus fruits are a rich source of valuable molecules, and their industrial processing produces bagasses, little explored to generate important by-products. These Citrus residues, including seeds and peels, also contain numerous pharmacologically important substances. To reduce the impact of these Citrus by-products, young, harvested fruits could be used as a functional supplemental food while another part is grown until maturity for industrial production. This study therefore aims to valorize rangpur (Citrus limonia) in the first 3 months of its growth by investigating and comparing its monthly chemical profiles using ultra-performance liquid chromatography-electrospray mass spectrometry (UPLC-ESI-MS) and its anti-inflammatory and antiplatelet activity.

RESULTS

Extracts obtained from the fruits harvested in November, December, and January, 2017 and 2018 (L221117, L161217, and L160118) showed different UPLC-ESI-MS profiles. Twenty-five of the 26 detected metabolites were identified as cyclitol, pyrrolidine betaine, aryl propanoyl esters, chlorogenic acids, flavonoids, coumarins, and limonoids. Quantification studies indicated an increased concentration of hesperidin from the younger fruits to the older fruits of the series. L160118 reduced nitrogen oxide (NOx), tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α), and interleukin 6 (IL-6) levels more than other extracts. Their activity followed the same trends as the hesperidin concentration in each fruit. In contrast, the most promising antiplatelet activity was observed with the extracts from the two youngest fruits. This suggests combined effects of the chemical components found in these fruits' extracts.

CONCLUSION

The extracts obtained from these young fruits showed considerable anti-inflammatory and antiplatelet activity. Overall, young rangpur could be used as raw material to produce functional foods without producing any waste. © 2022 Society of Chemical Industry.

Chemical, Antioxidant, and Antimicrobial Properties of the Peel and Male Flower By-Products of Four Varieties of Punica granatum L. Cultivated in the Marche Region for Their Use in Cosmetic Products

We are now seeing an increase in the production of agri-food waste, which is an essential resource for the recovery of bioactive compounds that may be employed as innovative natural ingredients in cosmetics. To date, the approach to cosmetics preservation has seen a significant shift in the search for biological components that give healthier alternatives for customers and help businesses operate in an environmentally friendly manner. To achieve this goal, we studied pomegranate extracts using the peel and, for the first time, extracts from the male flowers of a wide pomegranate variety cultivated in the Marche region, specifically, the Wonderful, Mollar de Elche, Parfianka, and less-studied G1 varieties. We studied the phenol compounds profile, antioxidant capacity, antimicrobial activity, and cell viability of the obtained pomegranate extracts. The identification and quantification of phenol compounds belonging to different classes, such as hydrolysable tannins, hydroxybenzoic acid, hydroxycinnamic acid, dihydroflavonol, gallocatechin, and anthocyanins, were performed using UPLC-ESI-MS/MS. Punicalagin isomers and punicalin resulted in the most abundant polyphenols found in the peel and male flower extracts. Mollar de Elche 2020 peel extract revealed a high concentration of punicalagin A and B (7206.4 mg/kg and 5812.9), while the content of gallic acid revealed high results in the G1 and Parfianka varieties. All extracts were spectrophotometrically analysed to determine their total phenol content (TPC) using the Folin–Ciocalteu method and their antioxidant capacity (AC). In terms of the total phenol obtained by the Folin–Ciocalteu colorimetric method, Mollar de Elche 2020 extracts reported the highest TPC content of 12.341 µmol GAE/g. Results revealed that the Mollar de Elche and Wonderful 2020 peel extracts demonstrated the highest TPC and AC. Furthermore, AC results indicated that the peel extracts displayed higher AC than the male flower extract due to the high punicalagin content detected by UPLC analysis. The antimicrobial activity testing revealed that the Wonderful and G1 2020 peel extracts resulted active against Escherichia coli, while all extracts exhibited promising anticandidal activity. Additionally, the cytocompatibility was evaluated in keratinocytes HaCaT cells by testing concentrations of pomegranate extracts ranging from 0.15 to 5.00 mg/mL. Extracts were non-toxic for the cells in the tested concentration range. The acquired results may help exploit pomegranate agri-food waste products provided by the Marche region’s short supply chain for their use as an antimicrobial and antioxidant booster in the formulation of cosmetic products.

Global Perspective of Plant-Based Cosmetic Industry and Possible Contribution of Sri Lanka to the Development of Herbal Cosmetics

The global consumption of plant-based cosmetics has shown spectacular growth in recent years because of rising consumer awareness regarding the long-term health benefits of natural ingredients. As the global demand for herbal cosmetics increases, there are ample opportunities for Sri Lanka as a tropical Asian country to expand its productions and global exports along with its unique biodiversity and inherited traditional knowledge. Therefore, the present review attempts to give an overview of the widely used medicinal plants in the global herbal cosmetic industry and strengths, challenges, and possible solutions for the development of the herbal cosmetic industry of Sri Lanka. Information was collected using electronic search (using Pub Med, Science Direct, Web of Science, Google Scholar, TEEAL, and Scopus) for articles published in peer-reviewed journals, industrial reports, market surveys, and library search for local books on ethnobotany. Important plant-derived ingredients used in the global herbal cosmetic industry are essential oils, colorants, oils, fats, and waxes. The traditional usage of 108 medicinal plant species (belonging to 58 families) in cosmetic treatments was identified from the local books of Sri Lanka. Of these, 49 plant species were reported as new ingredients for the herbal cosmetic industry. However, the lack of ethnobotanical and ethnopharmacological surveys to identify the cosmetic potential plants, insufficient or absence of continuous supply of raw materials for production in line with the existing demand, the lack of quality control of raw materials and finished cosmetic products, improper systematic cultivation systems for medicinal plants, poor postharvest practices, and the lack of innovations are major challenges encountered in Sri Lanka for the development of the herbal cosmetic industry. In conclusion, addressing these vital knowledge gaps is a timely requirement of the country for the sustainable development of the herbal cosmetic industry in Sri Lanka. Furthermore, assembling of the multidisciplinary cooperation of botanists, chemists, toxicologists, researchers, and biologists is crucial to analyze the interesting functional properties, efficacy, and effectiveness of documented medicinal plants with cosmetic potential.

Analysis of Gliricidia sepium Leaves by MALDI Mass Spectrometry Imaging

When investigating the potential use of plants as a raw material for an all-natural cosmetic formulation, the main parameters are the chemical composition, antioxidant potential, antimicrobial action, and toxicity. Additionally, the production of natural cosmetics should also consider the availability of primary materials and the environmental and socioeconomic impact. Gliricidia sepium is a species that produces a large amount of plant material, being cultivated in the agroforestry system. However, studies of phytochemical composition and chemical spatial distribution are scarcely using the MALDI MS (matrix-assisted laser desorption ionization mass spectrometry) and MALDI MSI (mass spectrometry imaging) techniques. A methodology was developed to optimize ionization parameters and analysis conditions by evaluating the efficiency of three matrices: α-cyano-4-hydroxycinnamic acid, 2,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid (DHB), and 2-mercaptobenzothiazole in MALDI MS analysis. All results were compared to ESI MS (electrospray ionization mass spectrometry), and afterward, MALDI MSI analysis was performed on the leaf surface. This study showed through phytochemical analysis that G. sepium leaves are composed of polyphenols and tannins, concluding that the methanolic extract had a higher amount of flavonoid content. Four compounds were identified on the leaf surface, and their spatial distribution was analyzed by MALDI MS using DHB as a matrix. Kaempferol, isorhamnetin, and some fatty acids showed potential applicability for cosmetical use. All the extracts presented antioxidant activity or antimicrobial action and no cytotoxicity. Therefore, extracts of G. sepium could be used as raw materials in cosmetics.

Food Loss and Food Waste for Green Cosmetics and Medical Devices for a Cleaner Planet

To stay wealthy in a world where all can live in prosperity and wellbeing, it is necessary to develop sustainable growth at net zero emissions to stop climate change, neutralizing both risks and diseases such as the COVID-19 pandemic and inequalities. Changing the worldwide use of the great quantity of food loss and waste can help to move in this direction. At this purpose, it seems useful to transform food waste into richness, extracting and using its content in natural ingredients and biopolymers to make new sustainable products and goods, including cosmetics and medical devices. Many of these ingredients are not only bioactive molecules considered of interest to produce these consumer products but are also useful in reducing the environmental footprint. The active agents may be obtained, for example, from waste material such as grapes or olive pomace, which include, among others natural polymers, phythosterols, vitamins, minerals and unsaturated fatty acids. Among the polymers, chitin and lignin have shown particular interest because biodegradable, nontoxic, skin- and environmentally friendly ingredients can be obtained at low cost from food and forestry waste, respectively. According to our experience, these polymers may be used to make nanocomposites and micro-nanoparticles that encapsulate different active ingredients, and which may be embedded into gel and non-woven tissues to realize advanced medications and smart cosmeceuticals. However, to utilize food waste in the best possible way, a better education of both industry and the consumer is considered necessary, introducing all to change the ways of production and living. The consumer has to understand the need to privilege, food, cosmetics and goods by selecting products known to be effective that also have a low release of carbon dioxide. Thus, they must pay heed to purchasing cosmetics and medical devices made by natural ingredients and packaged by biodegradable and/or reusable containers that are possibly plastic free. Conversely, the industry must try to use natural raw materials obtained from waste by changing their actual production methods. Therefore, both industry and the consumer should depart from the linear economy, which is based on taking, making, and producing waste, to move into a circular economy, which is based on redesigning, reducing, reusing and recycling. Some examples will report on the possibility to use natural polymers, including chitin and lignin, to produce new cosmeceutical tissues. These innovative tissues, to be used as biodegradable carriers for making smart cosmetics and medical devices, may be produced at zero waste to save our health and the planet biodiversity.

Microalgal transformation of food processing byproducts into functional food ingredients

Large amounts of food processing byproducts (FPBs) are generated from food manufacturing industries, the second-largest portion of food waste generation. FPBs may require additional cost for post-treatment otherwise cause environmental contamination. Valorization of FPBs into food ingredients by microalgae cultivation can save a high cost for organic carbon sources and nutrients from medium cost. This study reviews FPBs generation categorized by industry and traditional disposal. In contrast with the low-value production, FPBs utilization as the nutrient-abundant medium for microalgae can lead to high-value production. Due to the complex composition in FPBs, various pretreatment methods have been applied to extract the desired compounds and medium preparation. Using the FPB-based medium resulted in cost reduction and a productivity enhancement in previous literature. Although there are still challenges to overcome to achieve economic viability and environmental sustainability, the microalgal transformation of FPBs is attractive for functional food ingredients production.

Antioxidation and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Ability of Coffee Pulp Extract by Ethanol

Background. Following petroleum, coffee is the second most commonly traded commodity globally. It is also a popular good with economic value, as well as value in terms of leisure and culture. However, coffee processing generates a large amount of waste, resulting in environmental concerns. Therefore, in this study, ethanol was used to extract coffee waste (coffee pulp). High-performance liquid chromatography was conducted to examine the caffeine content and chlorogenic acid content, and the antioxidant capacity (i.e., the total phenolic content, total flavonoid content, DPPH-free radical scavenging capacity, ABTS-free radical scavenging capacity, and reductive capacity) and the tyrosinase inhibition capacity of the coffee pulp extracted using ethanol were comprehensively evaluated. Results. The results showed that the coffee pulp extract obtained using 70% ethanol had the highest tyrosinase inhibition capacity, whereas that obtained using 50% ethanol had the most satisfactory antioxidant capacity (total phenolic content, total flavonoid content, DPPH-free radical scavenging capacity, ABTS-free radical scavenging capacity, and reductive capacity). Conclusion. The results revealed that coffee pulp has superior antioxidant capacity and tyrosinase inhibition capacity when extracted by ethanol. Increasing the economic value of coffee pulp can solve the environmental concerns caused by coffee waste.

Antioxidant Capacity of Free Volatile Compounds from Olea europaea L. cv. Oblica Leaves Depending on the Vegetation Stage

Previous research on specialized metabolites of olive leaves has focused on the phenolic components and their biological role. The research in this article focuses on the metabolites that form free volatile compounds (FVCs). The composition of FVCs is divided into compounds isolated in the oil phase (essential oils; EO) and in the aqueous phase (hydrosols; Hy) from leaves of Olea europaea L. cultivar Oblica. Plant material was collected from the same olive tree over a six-month period, from December to May, and analyzed by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS). The compounds β-caryophyllene, α-humulene, allo-aromadendrene, docosane, hexadecanoic acid and oleic acid were identified in all EO study periods. In the Hy in all studied periods, the major compounds are α-pinene, β-ionone, myristicin, docosane, 1-hexanol, oleic acid and (E)-β-damascenone. The differences in the qualitative composition of FVC are directly related to the phenological development of the leaves. Antioxidant capacity of the EOs and hydrosols was measured with two methods, ORAC and DPPH. Hydrosol extracts showed higher capacity than the EOs in all methods.

Hazelnut Shells as Source of Active Ingredients: Extracts Preparation and Characterization

Hazelnut shells represent a waste material (about 42% of the total biomass) deriving from hazelnut harvest. These are mainly used as a heating source; however, they represent an interesting source of polyphenols useful in health field. The impact on phenolic profile and concentrations of hazelnut shell extracts obtained by three extraction methods (maceration, ultrasonic bath, and high-power ultrasonic), as well as temperature, extraction time, and preventive maceration, was studied. The prepared extracts were characterized in terms of chemical composition, antioxidant and antimicrobial activities. Eighteen different phenolic compounds were identified and quantified by chemical analysis and gallic acid was the most abundant in all the extracts analyzed. Other relevant compounds were chlorogenic acid, protocatechuic acid and catechin. Preventive maceration had a positive effect on the extraction of different types of compounds regardless of the method performed. Application of the high-power ultrasonic method had different effects, either positive or negative, depending on the type of compound and extraction time. All the prepared extracts showed antioxidant activity especially those prepared by maceration, and many of them were able to inhibit the growth of both B. subtilis and B. cereus.

Citrus Genus and Its Waste Utilization: A Review on Health-Promoting Activities and Industrial Application

Citrus fruits such as oranges, grapefruits, lemons, limes, tangerines, and mandarins, whose production is increasing every year with the rise of consumer demand, are among the most popular fruits cultivated throughout the globe. Citrus genus belongs to the Rutaceae family and is known for its beneficial effects on health for centuries. These plant groups contain many beneficial nutrients and bioactive compounds. These compounds have antimicrobial, anticancer, antidiabetic, antiplatelet aggregation, and anti-inflammatory activities. Citrus waste, generated by citrus-processing industries in large amounts every year, has an important economic value due to richness of bioactive compounds. The present review paper has summarized the application and properties of Citrus and its waste in some fields such as food and drinks, traditional medicine practices, and recent advances in modern approaches towards pharmaceutical and nutraceutical formulations.

Benefits and Drawbacks of Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction for the Recovery of Bioactive Compounds from Marine Algae

The increase in life expectancy has led to the appearance of chronic diseases and interest in healthy aging, in turn promoting a growing interest in bioactive compounds (BCs) and functional ingredients. There are certain foods or products rich in functional ingredients, and algae are one of them. Algae consumption has been nominal in Europe until now. However, in recent years, it has grown significantly, partly due to globalization and the adoption of new food trends. With the aim of obtaining BCs from foods, multiple methods have been proposed, ranging from conventional ones, such as maceration or Soxhlet extraction, to more innovative methods, e.g., ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE). UAE constitutes a novel method, belonging to so-called green chemistry, that enables the extraction of BCs requiring lower amounts of solvent and energy costs, preserving the integrity of such molecules. In recent years, this method has been often used for the extraction of different BCs from a wide range of algae, especially polysaccharides, such as carrageenans and alginate; pigments, including fucoxanthin, chlorophylls, or β-carotene; and phenolic compounds, among others. In this way, the application of UAE to marine algae is an efficient and sustainable strategy to pursue their deep characterization as a new source of BCs, especially suitable for vegetarian and vegan diets.

Chemical and Bioactive Characterization of Spanish and Belgian Apple Pomace for Its Potential Use as a Novel Dermocosmetic Formulation

Currently, there is a general trend towards reutilizing industrial by-products that would otherwise be discarded or considered as waste, aiming to explore them as alternative sources of valuable compounds. The apple pomace remaining from cider and apple juice industries represents a high-potential source of bioactive compounds with putative application in food or pharmaceutical-related products. Accordingly, the work reported herein was conducted to characterize the phenolic compounds in apple pomace from Belgium and Spain, as well as to evaluate its chemical composition and particular types of bioactivity. As a proof of concept, a new hydrogel was prepared, incorporated with the bioactive compounds and pectin extracted from apple pomace, aiming to obtain the most organic formulation possible. Independently of the extracting agent, it became evident that using lyophilization as the drying step is a better choice than thermal processes as it yielded a richer phenolic profile (fifteen individual compounds), with 5-O-caffeoylquinic acid as the major compound (66 to 114 mg/100 g dw) in Belgian samples. In general, the hydroethanolic extracts showed the strongest antioxidant and antimicrobial (particularly against Propionibacterium acnes: MIC = 2.5 mg/mL) activities. This result, together with the lipid nature of human skin, led it to be chosen as the extract type to be incorporated in the hydrogel. In general, apple pomace stood out as a valuable source of bioactive compounds, especially polyphenols and pectin, with good potential to be incorporated in dermal formulations.

Impact of Moderate Cold and Salt Stress on the Accumulation of Antioxidant Flavonoids in the Leaves of Two Capsicum Cultivars

The horticultural production of bell peppers generates large quantities of residual biomass. Abiotic stress stimulates the production of protective flavonoids, so the deliberate application of stress to the plants after fruit harvest could provide a strategy to valorize horticultural residuals by increasing flavonoid concentrations, facilitating their industrial extraction. Here we exposed two Capsicum cultivars, a chilli and a bell pepper, to cold and salt stress and combinations thereof to determine their valorization potential. Noninvasive image-based phenotyping and multiparametric fluorescence measurements indicated that all stress treatments inhibited plant growth and reduced the leaf chlorophyll fluorescence index, with the chilli cultivar showing greater sensitivity. The fluorescence-based FLAV index allowed the noninvasive assessment of foliar luteolin glycosides. High-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) analysis showed that moderate cold increased the levels of two foliar antioxidant luteolin glycosides in both cultivars, with bell pepper containing the highest amounts (induced to maximum 5.5 mg g^-1 DW cynaroside and 37.0 mg g^-1 DW graveobioside A) after combined stress treatment. These data confirm the potential of abiotic stress for the valorization of residual leaf biomass to enhance the industrial extraction of antioxidant and bioactive flavonoids.

Effect of a bioconverted product of Lotus corniculatus seed on the axillary microbiome and body odor

The skin microbiome, especially the axillary microbiome, consists of odor-causing bacteria that decompose odorless sweat into malodor compounds, which contributes to the formation of body odor. Plant-derived products are a cheap source of bioactive compounds that are common ingredients in cosmetics. Microbial bioconversion of natural products is an ecofriendly and economical method for production of new or improved biologically active compounds. Therefore, in this study, we tested the potential of a Lactobacillus acidophilus KNU-02-mediated bioconverted product (BLC) of Lotus corniculatus seed to reduce axillary malodor and its effect on the associated axillary microbiota. A chemical profile analysis revealed that benzoic acid was the most abundant chemical compound in BLC, which increased following bioconversion. Moreover, BLC treatment was found to reduce the intensity of axillary malodor. We tested the axillary microbiome of 18 study participants, divided equally into BLC and placebo groups, and revealed through 16S rRNA gene sequencing that Staphylococcus, Corynebacterium, and Anaerococcus were the dominant taxa, and some of these taxa were significantly associated with axillary malodor. After one week of BLC treatment, the abundance of Corynebacterium and Anaerococcus, which are associated with well-known odor-related genes that produce volatile fatty acids, had significantly reduced. Likewise, the identified odor-related genes decreased after the application of BLC. BLC treatment enhanced the richness and network density of the axillary microbial community. The placebo group, on the other hand, showed no difference in the microbial richness, odor associated taxa, and predicted functional genes after a week. The results demonstrated that BLC has the potential to reduce the axillary malodor and the associated odor-causing bacteria, which makes BLC a viable deodorant material in cosmetic products.

Pomegranate Peel Extract as an Inhibitor of SARS-CoV-2 Spike Binding to Human ACE2 Receptor (in vitro): A Promising Source of Novel Antiviral Drugs

Plant extracts are rich in bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols, sesquiterpenes, and triterpenes, which potentially have antiviral activities. As a consequence of the coronavirus disease 2019 pandemic, caused by the severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus-2 (SARS-CoV-2) virus, thousands of scientists have been working tirelessly trying to understand the biology of this new virus and the disease pathophysiology, with the main goal of discovering effective preventive treatments and therapeutic agents. Plant-derived secondary metabolites may play key roles in preventing and counteracting the rapid spread of SARS-CoV-2 infections by inhibiting the activity of several viral proteins, in particular those involved in the virus entry into the host cells and its replication. Using in vitro approaches, we investigated the role of a pomegranate peel extract (PPE) in attenuating the interaction between the SARS-CoV-2 Spike glycoprotein and the human angiotensin-converting enzyme 2 receptor, and on the activity of the virus 3CL protease. Although further studies will be determinant to assess the efficacy of this extract in vivo, our results opened new promising opportunities to employ natural extracts for the development of effective and innovative therapies in the fight against SARS-CoV-2.

Innovative Circular Business Models in the Olive Oil Sector for Sustainable Mediterranean Agrifood Systems

Considering the large amounts of harmful waste produced in the Mediterranean olive sector, entrepreneurial initiatives creating value from olive waste and by-products via circular bio-economy approaches are reviewed. These circular business models aim to enhance the functionality use of olive trees beyond traditional patterns for value creation. The study focuses on business drivers and value creation mechanisms, and specifically on conversion pathways of olive waste towards new value propositions. In total, 41 cases are analyzed mainly according to the Business Model Canvas components with NVivo, based on data gathered from an extensive online search mainly of company websites and reports, online articles, research project reports, professional websites, and newsletters. Results indicate that some innovative businesses have emerged specializing in the domain of olive waste valorization, driven by environmental concerns and mainly focusing on bioenergy production. However, the overall olive biomass potential yet seems to be under-valorized. A more radical and systemic change will be needed for effective implementation of circular business models contributing to sustainable development in the Mediterranean olive sector, with adequate subsidies, common regulations, more collective actions for creating economies of scale, and marketing strategies to increase consumer awareness for bio-based products.

The Potential of Selected Agri-Food Loss and Waste to Contribute to a Circular Economy: Applications in the Food, Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Industries

The food sector includes several large industries such as canned food, pasta, flour, frozen products, and beverages. Those industries transform agricultural raw materials into added-value products. The fruit and vegetable industry is the largest and fastest-growing segment of the world agricultural production market, which commercialize various products such as juices, jams, and dehydrated products, followed by the cereal industry products such as chocolate, beer, and vegetable oils are produced. Similarly, the root and tuber industry produces flours and starches essential for the daily diet due to their high carbohydrate content. However, the processing of these foods generates a large amount of waste several times improperly disposed of in landfills. Due to the increase in the world’s population, the indiscriminate use of natural resources generates waste and food supply limitations due to the scarcity of resources, increasing hunger worldwide. The circular economy offers various tools for raising awareness for the recovery of waste, one of the best alternatives to mitigate the excessive consumption of raw materials and reduce waste. The loss and waste of food as a raw material offers bioactive compounds, enzymes, and nutrients that add value to the food cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. This paper systematically reviewed literature with different food loss and waste by-products as animal feed, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical products that strongly contribute to the paradigm shift to a circular economy. Additionally, this review compiles studies related to the integral recovery of by-products from the processing of fruits, vegetables, tubers, cereals, and legumes from the food industry, with the potential in SARS-CoV-2 disease and bacterial diseases treatment.

Revalorization of Broccoli By-Products for Cosmetic Uses Using Supercritical Fluid Extraction

The agri-food industry is currently one of the main engines of economic development worldwide. The region of Murcia is a reference area in Europe for the cultivation of fruits and vegetables and produces the bulk of Spanish exports of broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica). The processing of fresh produce generates a huge number of by-products that represent an important economic and environmental problem when discarded. In this work, an advanced extraction technique using environmentally friendly solvents was applied to assess the revalorization of broccoli by-products, by performing a comparative analysis with conventional extraction. To achieve this goal, supercritical fluid extraction based on response surface methodology was performed using CO₂ and ethanol as solvents. The results obtained showed that the supercritical fluid extracts were rich in β-carotene, phenolic compounds, chlorophylls and phytosterols. Moreover, in bioactivity assays, the supercritical fluid extracts exhibited a high antioxidant activity and a cytoprotective effect in a non-tumorigenic keratinocyte cell line exposed to ultraviolet B light. The results indicate that supercritical fluid extracts from broccoli by-products could potentially serve as an ingredient for cosmetic purposes.

Enhanced and sustainable pretreatment for bioconversion and extraction of resveratrol from peanut skin using ultrasound-assisted surfactant aqueous system with microbial consortia immobilized on cellulose

In this study, the ultrasound-assisted surfactant aqueous system coupled with microbial consortia immobilized by cellulose has been created as an enhanced and sustainable method for the bioconversion and extraction of resveratrol from peanut skin. Based on central composite design, and several single-factor experiments, we derived the optimal bioconversion and extraction system. Microbial consortia consist of Yeast CICC 1912, Aspergillus oryzae 3.951 and Aspergillus niger 3.3148 were chosen to be immobilized using cellulose. Other treatment conditions include concentration of surfactant as 3% (w/v), temperature as 30 °C, time as 36 h, ultrasonic power as 250 W and liquid to solid ratio as 25:1 mL/g. Under these conditions, we achieved a promising yield of resveratrol 96.58 μg/g, which is 4.02 folds compared to the untreated sample. This sustainable and green method not only enhanced the production of resveratrol but also improved the safety and reliability of the bioconversion and extraction process. Our novel method has shown great potential to realize large-scale bioconversion and extraction of bioactive compounds from plant waste.

Development of a Low-Temperature and High-Performance Green Extraction Process for the Recovery of Polyphenolic Phytochemicals from Waste Potato Peels Using Hydroxypropyl β-Cyclodextrin

Potato peels (PP) are a major agri-food side-stream originating from potato processing, but to date, their green valorization as a bioresource of antioxidant polyphenols is limited to extraction processes involving mainly water/ethanol-based solvents, whereas other eco-friendly methodologies are scarce. This study aimed at developing a simple, straight-forward and green extraction methodology to effectively recover PP polyphenols, using hydroxypropyl β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD). After an initial assay to identify the optimal HP-β-CD concentration that would provide increased extraction yield, optimization based on response surface methodology enabled maximization of the extraction performance, providing a total polyphenol yield of 17.27 ± 0.93 mg chlorogenic acid equivalent g−1 dry mass, at 30 °C. Testing of temperatures higher than 30 °C and up to 80 °C did not favor higher yields. The extracts obtained with HP-β-CD were slightly richer in polyphenols than extracts prepared with conventional solvents, such as aqueous ethanol and methanol, displaying similar antioxidant characteristics. The major polyphenols that could be identified in the extracts were neochlorogenic, chlorogenic, caffeic and ferulic acids. The outcome of this study demonstrated that HP-β-CD may be used as a highly effective green means of recovering PP polyphenols, at near-ambient temperature.

Characterization and Application of Pomegranate Epicarp Extracts as Functional Ingredients in a Typical Brazilian Pastry Product

Currently, there is a clear tendency to incorporate natural ingredients into food and pharmaceutical formulations. Besides being well-accepted by consumers, these ingredients have less adverse side effects than their artificial counterparts. The pomegranate processing industry produces large quantities of by-products that are discarded as bio-residues, despite containing bioactive compounds. Accordingly, the epicarp of two pomegranate varieties (Mollar de Elche and Purple Queen) was tested as a potential source of bioactive compounds with food application. The phenolic profile was identified by HPLC–DAD–ESI/MS, revealing fourteen phenolic compounds in both varieties (Purple Queen showed also three anthocyanins), with punicalagin isomers as the major compounds. Nonetheless, Mollar de Elche presented greater antioxidant and antibacterial activities. Despite this result, Purple Queen was selected to be tested as a new natural colouring and functionalizing ingredient in a Brazilian pastry product. The incorporation of the selected extract maintained the nutritional profile and provided a higher antioxidant activity compared to the traditional product. In this way, this work confirmed the possible use of pomegranate epicarp as a natural ingredient in the food industry, conferring dyeing and functionalizing effects, and anticipating a possible valorisation of this bio-residue.

Thermal Analysis of Aliphatic Polyester Blends with Natural Antioxidants

The aim of this research was to enhance thermal stability of aliphatic polyester blends via incorporation of selected natural antioxidants of plant origin. Thermal methods of analysis, including differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravimetry (TGA), are significant tools for estimating the stabilization effect of polyphenols in a polymer matrix. Thermal stability was determined by analyzing thermogravimetric curves. Polymers with selected antioxidants degraded more slowly with rising temperature in comparison to reference samples without additives. This property was also confirmed by results obtained from differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), where the difference between the oxidation temperatures of pure material and polymer with natural stabilizers was observed. According to the results, the materials with selected antioxidants, including trans-chalcone, flavone and lignin have higher oxidation temperature than the pure ones, which confirms that chosen phytochemicals protect polymers from oxidation. Moreover, based on the colour change results or FT-IR spectra analysis, some of the selected antioxidants, including lignin and trans-chalcone, can be utilized as colorants or aging indicators. Taking into account the data obtained, naturally occurring antioxidants, including polyphenols, can be applied as versatile pro-ecological additives for biodegradable and bio-based aliphatic polyesters to obtain fully environmentally friendly materials dedicated for packaging industry.

Response surface methodology to optimise the heat-assisted aqueous extraction of phenolic compounds from coffee parchment and their comprehensive analysis

Coffee parchment is one of the less studied coffee by-products, being rich in phenolic compounds. The objective of this study was to revalorise coffee parchment, obtaining aqueous extracts rich in phenolic compounds, optimising the extraction conditions using response surface methodology and comprehensively characterising the obtained extracts. A Box-Behnken design was used to maximise the recovery of total phenolic compounds, total flavonoids, total flavanols, total phenolic acids, and total ortho-diphenols, and the antioxidant capacity of coffee parchment extracts. The main factor influencing phenolic compound extraction was temperature, followed by solid-to-solvent ratio and acidity. Optimised heat-assisted extraction conditions were 100 °C, 90 min, 0% citric acid, and 0.02 g mL^-1 solid-to-solvent ratio. Under these conditions, the concentrations of phenolic compounds and antioxidant capacity were equivalent to those expected, allowing us to validate the model. The UPLC-ESI-MS/MS phenolic profile exhibited the occurrence of 13 phenolic compounds, with those shown in higher concentrations being chlorogenic acid, vanillic acid, protocatechuic acid, and p-coumaric acid. The findings of this study provide valuable insights into the potential application of a useful, clean, environmentally friendly and cost-effective method to recover phenolic compounds from coffee parchment and, thus, to revalorize the by-product by converting it into high-added value new products to be used in the food and cosmetic industries.

Nutraceutical polyphenols: New analytical challenges and opportunities

Nowadays, the research for secondary metabolites with health promoting effects in countering or slowing-down chronic and degenerative diseases (e.g. cancer, cardiovascular, and neurodegenerative diseases) identify phenols and polyphenols, widespread and mostly copious in dietary plant sources, as beneficial for human health. These compounds, as intrinsically antioxidant, are claimed as nutraceuticals with preventive efficacy in offsetting oxidant species over-genesis in normal cells, and with the potential ability to halt or reverse oxidative stress-related diseases. In this context, pure (poly)phenols and/or their herbal/food complexes were found to exert both anti- and pro-oxidant activities, suggesting also a promising chemopreventive efficacy. In fact, different evidence further highlights their ability to induce apoptosis, growth arrest, DNA synthesis inhibition and/or modulation of signal transduction pathways. Indeed, a full understanding of the phenolic and polyphenolic composition of plant species, which still now represent their inestimable and worth exploring source, is an important challenge, which today can and must be favourably pursued in the consciousness that the bioactivity of a plant extract is always in its chemistry. To reach this purpose a number of new and advanced techniques are available for extraction, purification and structural identification purposes, but, taking into account how, when and where (poly)phenols are biosynthesized, their use must be highly rationalized. This is particularly true for mass spectrometry techniques which, although representing one of the most powerful tools and in continuous evolution in this era, often suffer from an automatism that does not give justice to the chemical goodness of a plant species and particularly those of nutraceutical interest. This review will deepen into polyphenol research, focusing on biosynthesis, analytical approaches for a conscious exploitability of nutraceutical plant extracts rich in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory polyphenols and/or pure isolated polyphenols.

Rapid Solid-Liquid Dynamic Extraction (RSLDE): A Powerful and Greener Alternative to the Latest Solid-Liquid Extraction Techniques

Traditionally, solid-liquid extractions are performed using organic and/or inorganic liquids and their mixtures as extractant solvents in contact with an insoluble solid matrix (e.g., the Soxhlet method) or using sequential atmospheric pressure systems that require long procedures, such as maceration or percolation. The objective of this procedure is the extraction of any compounds that can be carried out from the inner solid material to the outlet, resulting in a solution containing colorants, bioactive compounds, odorous substances, etc. Over the years, in the extraction techniques sector, there have been many important changes from the points of view of production, quality, and human and environmental safety due to improvements in technology. In more recent times, the interest of the scientific community has been aimed at the study of sustainable processes for the valorization of extracts from vegetables and food by-products, through the use of non-conventional (innovative) technologies that represent a valid alternative to conventional methods, generally through saving time and energy and the formation of fewer by-products. Therefore, with the development of principles based on the prevention of pollution, on a lower risk for human health, and on a low environmental impact, new systems have been implemented to reduce extraction times and solvent consumption, to improve efficiency, and to increase the productivity of the extracts. From this point of view, rapid solid-liquid dynamic extraction (RSLDE), performed using the Naviglio extractor, compared to traditional applications, is a technique that is able to reduce extraction times, generally leads to higher yields, does not require heating of the system, allows one to extract the active ingredients, and avoids their degradation. This technique is based on a new solid-liquid extraction principle named Naviglio’s principle. In this review, after reviewing the latest extraction techniques, an overview of RSLDE applications in various research and production sectors over the past two decades is provided.

Drying Optimisation to Obtain Carotenoid-Enriched Extracts from Industrial Peach Processing Waste (Pomace)

In this study, peach pomace (PP) moisture reduction using conventional oven-drying was investigated by implementing the Box-Behnken experimental design, considering two major process variables, time—t and temperature—T. The purpose was the optimisation of the process to obtain PP extracts as rich as possible in total carotenoids (TCn). It was shown that effective moisture removal up to a final level of approximately 24%, could be achieved after 8.27 h (496 min) at 70 °C. Under these optimised drying conditions, the maximum carotenoid yield was 84.57 ± 8.56 μg CtE g−1 dm. This yield was by almost 63% lower than that achieved using fresh (non-dried) samples. Temperatures higher than 70 °C were demonstrated to be even more detrimental in this regard, yet from the model built, it was made clear that prolonged drying time may bring about a more pronounced negative effect on the total carotenoid yield. The drop in total carotenoid content of PP as a result of drying was accompanied by a significant decline in the antiradical activity of PP extracts.

Phytomelatonin Regulates Keratinocytes Homeostasis Counteracting Aging Process

Phytomelatonin (PM) gained the greatest interest for its application in agriculture and its use to improve human health conditions. PM based supplement has been shown to possess antioxidant capabilities because it functions as a free radical scavenger. Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), induced by both intrinsic (peroxide production) and extrinsic (UV-radiation) factors are biochemical mediators crucial in skin aging. Skin aging is also regulated by specific microRNAs (miRs). Herein we have shown the effect of PM free radical scavengers on the human keratinocyte cell line HaCat and on ROS formation induced by both extrinsic and intrinsic factors as well as their capability to positively modulate a member of the hsa-miR-29 family linked to aging. Our result highlights the regulatory role of PM for the keratinocytes homeostasis.

Recovering Cucurbita pepo cv. 'Lungo Fiorentino' Wastes: UHPLC-HRMS/MS Metabolic Profile, the Basis for Establishing Their Nutra- and Cosmeceutical Valorisation

Food-waste is produced throughout all the food supply chain, with a large part already achieved at farm level. In fact, fruits and vegetables, which do not satisfy aesthetic demands, cannot be marketed, but their recovery could favour their valorisation for the obtainment of highly qualified goods. In this context, faulty zucchini fruits (cultivar 'Lungo Fiorentino'), intended for disposal, were rescued as effective, inexpensive and bio-sustainable source for cosmeceutical purposes. Zucchini fruits underwent extraction and fractionation to obtain ZLF-O and ZLF-A extracts, which were chemically characterized by UHPLC-HRMS. ZLF-A extract, rich in flavonols and flavones, scavenged massively DPPH• and ABTS•+, and was not cytotoxic at doses up to 200 μ g/mL. Thus, ZLF-A was incorporated into a base cream formula. Zucchini-based emulsion was deeply screened for its antiradical properties and cytotoxicity towards human keratinocytes and fibroblasts. ZLF-A-enriched cream, whose chemical stability was assessed over time and mimicking different storage conditions, was further tested on reconstructed epidermis disks (EpiskinTM). The recovery of valuable chemical substances from zucchini agro-food waste, complying with the principles of valorisation and sustainable development, can represent a new market force for local farmers. Data acquired were eager to convey a suitable reuse of nutraceuticals rich zucchini waste.

Design Methodology for the Development of a New Cosmetic Active Based on Prunus domestica L. Leaves Extract

When it comes to the development of new active ingredients for cosmetics, biodiversity is a rich source for inspiration that must be tapped in a sustainable manner to cause no social nor ecological damage. Agri-food by-products are therefore more and more considered as available biomass that can be reused to extract their maximum value to produce new cosmetic ingredients before returning to the biosphere. The process to transform plant waste materials into powerful cosmetic actives is thoroughly described in the present paper via the example of the design of a liquid anti-aging ingredient based on a Prunus domestica L. extract obtained by maceration of plums’ dried leaves in propylene glycol. The subsequent development of an SPE (solid-phase extraction) methodology used to remove the propylene glycol to get access to the extracted molecules is thoroughly described as a means to follow the stability of the ingredient over time once formulated into a finished product.