Guidelines for Formulating Anti-Pollution Products

Advancements in sunscreen formulations: integrating polyphenolic nanocarriers and nanotechnology for enhanced UV protection

Sunscreens are essential in protecting the skin from harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These formulations, designed to absorb, block, or scatter UVR, offer vital protection against skin aging, sunburns, and the development of skin cancers like melanomas. However, some sunscreens, especially those containing organic/chemical compounds, can cause allergic reactions. To address this, researchers are extensively investigating formulations that incorporate plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as flavonoids and carotenoids, which can be considered safer alternatives. Products derived from plants are commonly used in cosmetics to counteract skin aging due to their antioxidant activity that combat harmful free radicals. This review focuses on evaluating the advancements in chemical and natural sunscreens, exploring the integration of polyphenolic nanocarriers within sunscreen formulas, their interaction with UVR, and utilizing nanotechnology to enhance their effectiveness. An attempt has been made to highlight the concerns related to toxicity associated with their use and notable advancements in the regulatory aspects governing their utilization.

Anti-Aging Potential of a Novel Ingredient Derived from Sugarcane Straw Extract (SSE)

Natural and sustainable anti-aging ingredients have gained attention from the cosmetic industry. This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of a sugarcane straw extract-based (SSE) cosmetic ingredient. First, cytotoxicity tests were assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblast cell lines, and sensitization was carried out through the direct peptide reactivity assay. Subsequently, various anti-aging properties were investigated, including inhibiting skin aging-related enzymes, promoting elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and anti-pollution activity. Finally, a permeability assay using a synthetic membrane resembling skin was conducted. The results demonstrated that the SSE ingredient effectively inhibited elastase (55%), collagenase (25%), and tyrosinase (47%) while promoting hyaluronic acid production at non-cytotoxic and low-sensitizer concentrations. Moreover, it reduced the inflammatory response provoked by urban pollution, as evidenced by decreased levels of IL1-α and IL-6. However, it was observed that the phenolic compounds predominantly reached the skin's surface, indicating a limited ability to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. Therefore, it can be concluded that the SSE ingredient holds anti-aging properties, albeit with limited penetration into deeper skin layers. Further research and formulation advancements are needed to optimize the ingredient's ability to reach and exert its effects in deeper skin layers.

Herb and Flowers of Achillea millefolium subsp. millefolium L.: Structure and Histochemistry of Secretory Tissues and Phytochemistry of Essential Oils

Achillea millefolium L. herb and flowers have high biological activity; hence, they are used in medicine and cosmetics. The aim of this study was to perform morpho-anatomical analyses of the raw material, including secretory tissues, histochemical assays of the location of lipophilic compounds, and quantitative and qualitative analysis of essential oil (EO). Light and scanning electron microscopy techniques were used to analyse plant structures. The qualitative analyses of EO were carried out using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC/MS). The results of this study showed the presence of exogenous secretory structures in the raw material, i.e., conical cells (papillae) on the adaxial surface of petal teeth and biseriate glandular trichomes on the surface flowers, bracts, stems, and leaves. Canal-shaped endogenous secretory tissue was observed in the stems and leaves. The histochemical assays revealed the presence of total, acidic, and neutral lipids as well as EO in the glandular trichome cells. Additionally, papillae located at the petal teeth contained neutral lipids. Sesquiterpenes were detected in the glandular trichomes and petal epidermis cells. The secretory canals in the stems were found to contain total and neutral lipids. The phytochemical assays demonstrated that the A. millefolium subsp. millefolium flowers contained over 2.5-fold higher amounts of EO (6.1 mL/kg) than the herb (2.4 mL/kg). The EO extracted from the flowers and herb had a similar dominant compounds: β-pinene, bornyl acetate, (E)-nerolidol, 1,8-cineole, borneol, sabinene, camphor, and α-pinene. Both EO samples had greater amounts of monoterpenes than sesquiterpenes. Higher amounts of oxygenated monoterpenes and oxygenated sesquiterpenoids were detected in the EO from the herb than from the flowers.

Promoting New Approach Methodologies (NAMs) for research on skin color changes in response to environmental stress factors: tobacco and air pollution

Aging is one of the most dynamic biological processes in the human body and is known to carry significant impacts on individuals' self-esteem. Skin pigmentation is a highly heritable trait made possible by complex, strictly controlled cellular and molecular mechanisms. Genetic, environmental and endocrine factors contribute to the modulation of melanin's amount, type and distribution in the skin layers. One of the hallmarks of extrinsic skin aging induced by environmental stress factors is the alteration of the constitutive pigmentation pattern clinically defined as senile lentigines and/or melasma or other pigmentary dyschromias. The complexity of pollutants and tobacco smoke as environmental stress factors warrants a thorough understanding of the mechanisms by which they impact skin pigmentation through repeated and long-term exposure. Pre-clinical and clinical studies demonstrated that pollutants are known to induce reactive oxygen species (ROS) or inflammatory events that lead directly or indirectly to skin hyperpigmentation. Another mechanistic direction is provided by Aryl hydrocarbon Receptors (AhR) which were shown to mediate processes leading to skin hyperpigmentation in response to pollutants by regulation of melanogenic enzymes and transcription factors involved in melanin biosynthesis pathway. In this context, we will discuss a diverse range of New Approach Methodologies (NAMs) capable to provide mechanistic insights of the cellular and molecular pathways involved in the action of environmental stress factors on skin pigmentation and to support the design of raw ingredients and formulations intended to counter their impact and of any subsequently needed clinical studies.

Comprehensive Phytochemical Analysis and Bioactivity Evaluation of Padina boergesenii: Unveiling Its Prospects as a Promising Cosmetic Component

Marine macroalgae, such as Padina boergesenii, are gaining recognition in the cosmetics industry as valuable sources of natural bioactive compounds. This study aimed to investigate the biochemical profile of P. boergesenii and evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS), and high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry quadrupole time-of-flight (HRLCMS QTOF) analyses were employed to assess the functional groups, phycocompounds, and beneficial compounds present in P. boergesenii. Pigment estimation, total phenol and protein content determination, DPPH antioxidant analysis, and tyrosinase inhibition assay were conducted to evaluate the extracts' ability to counteract oxidative stress and address hyperpigmentation concerns. Elemental composition and amino acid quantification were determined using inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and HRLCMS, respectively. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed diverse functional groups, including halo compounds, alcohols, esters, amines, and acids. GCMS analysis identified moisturizing, conditioning, and anti-aging compounds such as long-chain fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, and hydrocarbon derivatives. HRLCMS QTOF analysis revealed phenolic compounds, fatty acid derivatives, peptides, terpenoids, and amino acids with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-nourishing properties. Elemental analysis indicated varying concentrations of elements, with silicon (Si) being the most abundant and copper (Cu) being the least abundant. The total phenol content was 86.50 µg/mL, suggesting the presence of antioxidants. The total protein content was 113.72 µg/mL, indicating nourishing and rejuvenating effects. The ethanolic extract exhibited an IC50 value of 36.75 μg/mL in the DPPH assay, indicating significant antioxidant activity. The methanolic extract showed an IC50 value of 42.784 μg/mL. Furthermore, P. boergesenii extracts demonstrated 62.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. This comprehensive analysis underscores the potential of P. boergesenii as an effective cosmetic ingredient for enhancing skin health. Given the increasing use of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics, further exploration of P. boergesenii's potential in the cosmetics industry is warranted to leverage its valuable properties.

Environmental Air Pollutants Affecting Skin Functions with Systemic Implications

The increase in air pollution worldwide represents an environmental risk factor that has global implications for the health of humans worldwide. The skin of billions of people is exposed to a mixture of harmful air pollutants, which can affect its physiology and are responsible for cutaneous damage. Some polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons are photoreactive and could be activated by ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Therefore, such UVR exposure would enhance their deleterious effects on the skin. Air pollution also affects vitamin D synthesis by reducing UVB radiation, which is essential for the production of vitamin D3, tachysterol, and lumisterol derivatives. Ambient air pollutants, photopollution, blue-light pollution, and cigarette smoke compromise cutaneous structural integrity, can interact with human skin microbiota, and trigger or exacerbate a range of skin diseases through various mechanisms. Generally, air pollution elicits an oxidative stress response on the skin that can activate the inflammatory responses. The aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) can act as a sensor for small molecules such as air pollutants and plays a crucial role in responses to (photo)pollution. On the other hand, targeting AhR/Nrf2 is emerging as a novel treatment option for air pollutants that induce or exacerbate inflammatory skin diseases. Therefore, AhR with downstream regulatory pathways would represent a crucial signaling system regulating the skin phenotype in a Yin and Yang fashion defined by the chemical nature of the activating factor and the cellular and tissue context.

Green-Engineered Barrier Creams with Montmorillonite-Chlorophyll Clays as Adsorbents for Benzene, Toluene, and Xylene

Dermal exposures to hazardous environmental chemicals in water can significantly affect the morphology and integrity of skin structure, leading to enhanced and deeper penetration. Organic solvents, such as benzene, toluene, and xylene (BTX), have been detected in humans following skin exposure. In this study, novel barrier cream formulations (EVB™) engineered with either montmorillonite (CM and SM) or chlorophyll-amended montmorillonite (CMCH and SMCH) clays were tested for their binding efficacy for BTX mixtures in water. The physicochemical properties of all sorbents and barrier creams were characterized and were shown to be suitable for topical application. In vitro adsorption results indicated that EVB-SMCH was the most effective and favorable barrier for BTX, as supported by the high binding percentage (29-59% at 0.05 g and 0.1 g), stable binding at equilibrium, low desorption rates, and high binding affinity. Pseudo-second-order and the Freundlich models best fit the adsorption kinetics and isotherms, and the adsorption was an exothermic reaction. Ecotoxicological models using L. minor and H. vulgaris that were submersed in aqueous culture media showed that the inclusion of 0.05% and 0.2% EVB-SMCH reduced BTX concentration. This result was further supported by the significant and dose-dependent increase in multiple growth endpoints, including plant frond number, surface area, chlorophyll content, growth rate, inhibition rate, and hydra morphology. The in vitro adsorption results and in vivo plant and animal models indicated that green-engineered EVB-SMCH can be used as an effective barrier to bind BTX mixtures and interrupt their diffusion and dermal contact.

Protective effects of a day/night dual-antioxidant serum on skin: A randomized, regimen-controlled study in Chinese women exposed to air pollution

BACKGROUND

Chronic exposure to air pollution can negatively affect skin health.

AIMS

To assess the efficacy of the LUMIVIVE^® System (LVS), a skincare system consisting of individual day and night serums, in Chinese women exposed to air pollution.

PATIENTS/METHODS

In this single-center, vehicle-controlled study, eligible females (mean age, 49.02 years) were randomized 1:1 to treatment group (LVS plus basic moisturizer) or control group (basic moisturizer). Skin color, sebum content, barrier function, elasticity, and texture were measured at baseline and at each follow-up visit (days 28, 56, and 84). Air pollution parameters were collected throughout the study.

RESULTS

Air pollution levels, including PM_2.5 and NO₂ , were consistently high during the study. The treatment group showed significantly higher skin color L* (p ≤ 0.0001) and lower a* values (p ≤ 0.05) at all follow-up visits compared with the control group, indicating lower skin pigmentation and redness, respectively. Skin color L* and a* values remained unchanged over time for the control group but were significantly different at all follow-up visits compared to baseline (p ≤ 0.0001 and p ≤ 0.05, respectively) for the treatment group. There was an increasing trend for sebum content in the control group, which was not observed in the treatment group. Both groups showed improvements over time in other skin physiology parameters.

CONCLUSIONS

The current analysis demonstrates the efficacy of LVS plus basic moisturizer compared with basic moisturizer alone to reduce skin pigmentation and redness, as well as to mitigate sebum production, in Chinese women exposed to air pollution.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Inclusion of Montmorillonite Clays in Environmental Barrier Formulations to Reduce Skin Exposure to Water-Soluble Chemicals from Polluted Water

Dermal exposures to environmental chemicals can significantly affect the morphology and integrity of skin structure, leading to enhanced and deeper penetration of toxic chemicals. This problem can be magnified during disasters where hazardous water-soluble chemicals are readily mobilized and redistributed in the environment, threatening the health of vulnerable populations at the impacted sites. To address this issue, barrier emulsion formulations (EVB) have been developed consisting of materials that are generally recognized as safe, with the inclusion of medical grade carbon or calcium and sodium montmorillonite clays (CM and SM). In this study, the adsorption efficacy of five highly toxic and commonly occurring contaminants of concern, including important hydrophilic pesticides (glyphosate, acrolein, and paraquat) and per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances were characterized. EVB showed properties such as high stability, spreadability, low rupture strength, and neutral pH that were suitable for topical application on the skin. The in vitro adsorption results indicated that EVB and EVB-SM were effective, economically feasible, and favorable barrier formulations for hazardous chemical adsorption, as supported by high binding percentage, low desorption rates for an extended period of time, and high binding affinity. A pseudo-second-order kinetic model was best fitted for the adsorption process and the Freundlich model fit the adsorption isotherms with negative enthalpy values indicating spontaneous reactions that involve physisorption. The study, with varying temperatures and pH, showed that the adsorption reaction was exothermic and persistent. The results indicated that EVB and EVB-SM can be used as effective barriers to block dermal contact from water-soluble toxic pollutants during disasters.

Overcoming Skin Damage from Pollution via Novel Skincare Strategies

Urban pollution is one of the main problems encountered worldwide with major impact on public health as well as the environment. Health impact of urban pollution is not limited to respiratory conditions but also encompasses major skin problems including irritation, skin ageing, and skin cancer. Toxic gases and particulate matter are the main pollutants and exhibit extensive local variability. The aforementioned pollutants are small particles that attach to the skin or penetrate into it, enhancing free radicals' production inside the inner skin layers. This urges the need to propose cosmetic products that help prevent and/or minimise pollutants' effects on the skin whether irritation, ageing and cancer. Furthermore, intrinsic and extrinsic factors contributed to skin irritation and ageing. Intrinsic factors are within skin factors and include genetic and physiological characteristics of individuals. Moreover, extrinsic factors comprise environmental factors such as humidity, temperature, and smoke. Subsequently active ingredients with antipollutant properties addressed the intrinsic and extrinsic factors by four mechanisms being: free radical neutralisation, film-forming ability, skin barrier enhancement and fortification. Such ingredients include vitamin A derivatives, vitamin C derivatives, carbohydrates, and plant-based products. Yet, very limited studies have evaluated the effectiveness of the aforementioned active ingredients against irritation or ageing and this should be considered in future work.

How to prevent skin damage from air pollution part 2: Current treatment options

In the first part of this review, we have summarized the methods used to examine skin exposure to air pollution and the fundamental concept of skin-exposome interactions. Part 2 of this review focuses on dermatoses, whose aggravation or initiation by air pollution has been confirmed in evidence based medicine manner. Based on the model of photodermatology and photodermatoses, we propose a new concept of "polludermatoses." A key feature of this concept is identifying patients at risk, which will reveal the noxious effects of air pollutants on skin health. Identifying clinical signs of pollution-damaged skin could be beneficial in categorizing conditions caused or exacerbated by exposure to air pollution. Finally, we discuss the current treatment options and the pathogenetic processes targeted by these therapeutics or the development of novel treatment modalities.

Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.

Antioxidant and reduced skin-ageing effects of a polyphenol-enriched dietary supplement in response to air pollution: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study

Background

Air pollution exposure is one of the major threats to skin health and accelerates skin ageing mainly through oxidative stress mechanisms. Since it is difficult to minimize skin exposure to air pollutants, especially in urban areas, strategies to protect the skin are needed. Plant phenolic compounds have been found to be effective in attenuating cellular oxidative stress and inflammation induced by different air pollutants and a dietary approach based on these compounds could provide an efficient protection measure.

Objective

Here we investigated the efficacy of a commercially available polyphenol-enriched dietary supplement (Zeropollution^®) in reducing pollution-induced oxidative stress and in improving different skin parameters related to skin ageing of Caucasian and Asian subjects exposed to air pollution. Zeropollution is composed of four standardized herbal extracts: Olea europaea leaf, Lippia citriodora, Rosmarinus officinalis, and Sophora japonica.

Design

A double-blind randomized, parallel group study was carried out on 100 outdoor workers living in a polluted urban European area (Milan) to assess the efficacy of the dietary supplement. The total antioxidant capacity on saliva (FRAP), the oxidative damage on skin (lipoperoxides content), skin moisturization (corneometer), transepidermal water loss (tewameter), skin radiance and colour (spectrophotometer), skin elasticity (cutometer), skin sebum content (sebumeter), and the skin roughness (image analysis) were measured.

Results

Both inter-group and intra-group analysis proved that the dietary supplement improved all clinical and biochemical-monitored parameters, in both Caucasian and Asian individuals. Some of the positive effects such as decreased wrinkle depth, increased elasticity and firmness, improved skin moisturization and transepidermal water loss, and reduced dark spots pigmentation were statistically significant as early as 2 weeks of product consumption.

Conclusions

The results of the study indicate reduced oxidative stress-induced skin damage in both Asian and Caucasian women living in a polluted urban area. Therefore, the oral intake of this four-plant based supplement could be considered a complementary nutrition strategy to avoid the negative effects of environmental pollution exposure.

Achillea Species as Sources of Active Phytochemicals for Dermatological and Cosmetic Applications

Achillea spp. is well known for its broad range of applications and long history of use in traditional medicine around the world. Health benefits of Achillea extracts result from the multitude of secondary metabolites identified in the plants from this genus that include flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpenes, guaianolides, phytosterols, fatty acids, and organic acids. The properties of several Achillea extracts meet also the expectations of a vividly developing cosmetic market. An increasing number of studies on the dermatological properties of Achillea spp. are observed in the recent years, with Achillea millefolium L. being the most studied and used representative of the genus. There is strong scientific evidence showing that also other yarrow species might be rich sources of effective cosmetic ingredients, with skin calming and rejuvenating properties, wound healing activity, and anti-inflammatory potential. Several Achillea extracts and isolated compounds were also shown to display significant tyrosinase inhibitory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties and thus are interesting candidates for active ingredients of medications and cosmetic products protecting the skin from the harmful impact of environmental stressors. The aim of this review is to collect the current information on the composition and cosmeceutical significance of different Achillea species.

The effect of air pollution on the skin colour and tone of Chinese women: A multicentre cohort study

BACKGROUND

Overall facial skin colour is an important sign of perceived health and attractiveness, is predetermined by genetic factors, and is influenced by cultural and living habits, ultraviolet (UV) exposure, climate/seasons and ageing. The objective of this study was to determine the impact of pollution on the skin colour of Chinese women.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A total of 203 Chinese women between 20 and 59 years of age participated in the study and were selected from two cities with different levels of air pollution. Skin colour (L*, a* and b* values), melanin and haemoglobin levels were measured at three sites: the cheek, eye and inner upper arm. Measurements of the inner upper arm were taken as this area of skin was exposed to air pollutants but had minimal exposure to UV light.

RESULTS

There were significant differences in skin chromophores between Chinese women living in two different cities with different levels of pollution. The b* value (yellowness) was higher in the eye and cheek region, and the a* value (redness) was lower in the cheek and arm region for women in the moderately polluted city. The melanin index was significantly higher, and the haemoglobin level was lower for the eye region for women living in the city with a higher level of air pollution.

CONCLUSION

This study has shown that air pollution may negatively affect the skin colour of Chinese women.

A New Ex Vivo Model to Evaluate the Hair Protective Effect of a Biomimetic Exopolysaccharide against Water Pollution

As an external appendage, hair is exposed to multiple stresses of different origins such as particles and gases in air, or heavy metals and chemicals in water. So far, little research has addressed the impact of water pollution on hair. The present study describes a new ex vivo model that allowed us to document the adverse effects of water pollutants on the structure of hair proteins, as well as the protective potential of active cosmetic ingredients derived from a biomimetic exopolysaccharide (EPS). The impact of water pollution was evaluated on hair from a Caucasian donor repeatedly immersed in heavy metal-containing water. Heavy metal retention in and on hair was then quantified using Inductively Coupled Plasma Spectrometry (ICP/MS). The adverse effects of heavy metals on the internal structure of hair and its prevention by the EPS were assessed through measurement of keratin birefringence. Notably, the method allows the monitoring of the organization of keratin fibers and therefore the initial change on it in order to modulate the global damage in the hair. Results revealed an increasing amount of lead, cadmium and copper, following multiple exposures to polluted water. In parallel, the structure of keratin was also altered with exposures. However, heavy metal-induced keratin fiber damage could be prevented in the presence of the tested EPS, avoiding more drastic hair problems, such as lack of shine, or decrease in strength, due to damage accumulation.

Blueberry Extracts as a Novel Approach to Prevent Ozone-Induced Cutaneous Inflammasome Activation

The World Health Organization estimates that 7 million people die every year due to pollution exposure. Among the different pollutants to which living organism are exposed, ozone (O3) represents one of the most toxic, because its location which is the skin is one of the direct tissues exposed to the outdoor environment. Chronic exposure to outdoor stressors can alter cutaneous redox state resulting in the activation of inflammatory pathways. Recently, a new player in the inflammation mechanism was discovered: the multiprotein complex NLRP1 inflammasome, which has been shown to be also expressed in the skin. The topical application of natural compounds has been studied for the last 40 years as a possible approach to prevent and eventually cure skin conditions. Recently, the possibility to use blueberry (BB) extract to prevent pollution-induced skin toxicity has been of great interest in the cosmeceutical industry. In the present study, we analyzed the cutaneous protective effect of BB extract in several skin models (2D, 3D, and human skin explants). Specifically, we observed that in the different skin models used, BB extracts were able to enhance keratinocyte wound closure and normalize proliferation and migration responses previously altered by O3. In addition, pretreatment with BB extracts was able to prevent ozone-induced ROS production and inflammasome activation measured as NRLP1-ASC scaffold formation and also prevent the transcripts of key inflammasome players such as CASP1 and IL-18, suggesting that this approach as a possible new technology to prevent cutaneous pollution damage. Our data support the hypothesis that BB extracts can effectively reduce skin inflammation and be a possible new technology against cutaneous pollution-induced damage.

Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts-Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use

Studies on hydroglycolic (HG) extracts of Achillea biebersteinii (AB)—a less investigated representative of the genus—were performed to determine their potential for cosmetic applications compared to the well-known Achillea millefolium (AM). Three types of water:polyethylene glycol extracts (1:1, 4:1, 6:1 v/v) were obtained from both species and analyzed for their composition by high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS) and assayed for their biological activities. The study led to the identification of 11 metabolites from different natural product classes with the highest share corresponding to 5-caffeoylquinic acid, axillarin, coumaroylquinic acid isomers and 3-caffeoylquinic acid. The highest antiradical capacity in DPPH and ABTS scavenging assays was shown for HG 4:1 of AB and AM extracts. HG 1:1 extracts from both species inhibited monophenolase and diphenolase activity of tyrosinase, whereas AB HG 4:1 extract showed significant monophenolase inhibition. The highest sun protection factor (SPF) was determined for AM HG 4:1 extract, equal to 14.04 ± 0.17. The AB extracts were cytotoxic for both human keratinocytes HaCaT and A375 melanoma, however HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts were more cytotoxic for cancer than for noncancerous cells. In conclusion, AB HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts display significant potential as active cosmetic ingredients.

Anti-Hypochlorite, Antioxidant, and Catalytic Activity of Three Polyphenol-Rich Super-Foods Investigated with the Use of Coumarin-Based Sensors

The anti-hypochlorite activity of açaí (Euterpe oleracea Mart.), goji (Lycium barbarum L.) and schisandra (Schisandra chinensis) fruit extracts were assessed by determining the reactive chlorine species (RCS)-scavenging ability of these three "super-food" berries. In addition, the aqueous extracts obtained were employed as both the media and the catalyst in a green chemistry approach to the synthesis of a coumarin-based fluorescence turn-off sensor, which was then used for anti-hypochlorite activity testing. The aqueous extracts were also assessed for total phenolic content (TPC), using the Folin-Ciocalteu method, and the antioxidant activity using the ABTS^+• assay. Moreover, the main water-soluble polyphenolic constituents of the extracts were identified by the HPLC-PDA-ESI-MS technique. Among the extracts tested, açaí demonstrated the highest anti-hypochlorite and antioxidant activities, while the highest TPC value was found for the goji extract. All extracts demonstrated modest catalytic activity as Knoevenagel condensation catalysts.

Steering the Clinical Translation of Delivery Systems for Drugs and Health Products

Besides the feasibility for industrial scale-up, accelerating the translation from bench to bedside of new technological strategies for controlled delivery and targeting of drugs and other actives relevant for health management, such as medical devices and nutraceuticals, would benefit from an even earlier evaluation in pre-clinical models and clinical settings. At the same time, translational medicine also performs in the opposite direction, incorporating clinical needs and observations into scientific hypotheses and innovative technological proposals. With these aims, the sessions proposed for the 2019 CRS Italy Chapter Workshop will introduce the experience of Italian and worldwide researchers on how to foster the actual work in controlled release and drug delivery towards a reliable pre-clinical and clinical assessment.

Symurban Nanocrystals for Advanced Anti-Pollution Skincare

Several of most common dermatoses worldwide, e.g., psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, are worsened in their clinical picture when the skin is regularly exposed to an increased air pollution level, e.g., particulate matter. This is explainable by the activation of the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) in the skin, which results in an increased release of proinflammatory cytokines and matrix metalloproteinases. Symurban is a competitive AhR antagonist and thus allows the effective protection of skin. In order to improve its dermal bioavailability as a poorly soluble active agent (0.25 µg/mL), nanocrystals were prepared and evaluated. Nanocrystals are pure active crystals reduced in particle size to the submicron range of 100 to 1000 nm. They feature the properties of nanocrystals, such as increased saturation solubility and dissolution velocity, without having to be declared as nanomaterial. Production methods and parameters were systematically investigated. Wet bead milling at 2000 rpm for 30 min yielded the best results. A z-average of 280 nm was achieved for a 10% Symurban suspension with a polydispersity index of 0.20, indicating a narrow size distribution. For the long-term stabilization of the nanocrystal suspension, the performance of 15 surfactants of different categories and HLB values were investigated and evaluated. It was found that non-ionic surfactants in general were better able to stabilize the system than anionic or amphoteric surfactants. Highest stability of over 12 months at 25 °C was achieved with 2% Plantacare 810 UP, an ECOCERT surfactant with high skin tolerance. The suspension was also chemically long-term stable with >97% of remaining Symurban over 12 months. The saturation solubility of Symurban as nanocrystals was significantly increased from 0.25 to 2.9 μg/mL, which corresponds to a factor of >11. In a case study of one male volunteer with healthy skin conditions, penetration profiles of Symurban nanocrystal hydrogel and commercial anti-pollution serum containing an identical amount of Symurban were determined and compared. After 20 min of exposure, the relative Symurban concentration in the deeper skin layers (tape 19-30) was more than two times higher for nanocrystal hydrogel (16%) than the commercial serum (7%). These results suggest that nanocrystals are a promising delivery system for the poorly soluble anti-pollution agent Symurban.

Skin Irritation Testing beyond Tissue Viability: Fucoxanthin Effects on Inflammation, Homeostasis, and Metabolism

UV light catalyzes the ozone formation from air pollutants, like nitrogen oxides. Since ozone reacts with cutaneous sebum lipids to peroxides and, thus, promotes inflammation, tumorigenesis, and aging, even broad-spectrum sunscreens cannot properly protect skin. Meanwhile, xanthophylls, like fucoxanthin, proved their antioxidant and cytoprotective functions, but the safety of their topical application in human cell-based models remains unknown. Aiming for a more detailed insight into the cutaneous fucoxanthin toxicity, we assessed the tissue viability according to OECD test guideline no. 439 as well as changes in inflammation (IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8), homeostasis (EGFR, HSPB1) and metabolism (NAT1). First, we proved the suitability of our 24-well-based reconstructed human skin for irritation testing. Next, we dissolved 0.5% fucoxanthin either in alkyl benzoate or in ethanol and applied both solutions onto the tissue surface. None of the solutions decreased RHS viability below 50%. In contrast, fucoxanthin ameliorated the detrimental effects of ethanol and reduced the gene expression of pro-inflammatory interleukins 6 and 8, while increasing NAT1 gene expression. In conclusion, we developed an organ-on-a-chip compatible RHS, being suitable for skin irritation testing beyond tissue viability assessment. Fucoxanthin proved to be non-irritant in RHS and already showed first skin protective effects following topical application.

Recent Trends of Sunscreen Cosmetic: An Update Review

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation has been demonstrated to cause skin disorders, including sunburn and relative symptoms of prolonged exposure. It has been reported that sunscreens have beneficial effects in reducing the incidence of skin disorders (sunburn, skin aging, and immunosuppression) through their ability to absorb, reflect, and scatter UV. Many commercial products have recently been manufactured from not only usual organic and inorganic UV filters, but also hybrid and botanical ingredients using typical formulations (emulsion, gel, aerosol, and stick). Particularly, these products have been supplemented with several preeminent properties to protect against the negative effects of not only UVB, but also UVA. However, the use of sunscreen has faced many challenges, including inducing photoallergic dermatitis, environment pollution, and deficiency of vitamin D production. Therefore, consumers should efficiently apply suitable products to improve sun protection. as well as to avoid the side effects of sunscreen.

Lipid nanostructures for antioxidant delivery: a comparative preformulation study

This investigation is a study of new lipid nanoparticles for cutaneous antioxidant delivery. Several molecules, such as α-tocopherol and retinoic acid, have been shown to improve skin condition and even counteract the effects of exogenous stress factors such as smoking on skin aging. This work describes the design and development of lipid nanoparticles containing antioxidant agents (α-tocopherol or retinoic acid) to protect human skin against pollutants. Namely, solid lipid nanoparticles and nanostructured lipid carriers were prepared using different lipids (tristearin, compritol, precirol or suppocire) in the presence or absence of caprylic/capric triglycerides. The formulations were characterized by particle size analysis, cryogenic transmission electron microscopy, small-angle X-ray diffraction, encapsulation efficiency, preliminary stability, in vitro cytotoxicity and protection against cigarette smoke. Nanostructured lipid carriers were found to reduce agglomerate formation and provided better dimensional stability, as compared to solid lipid nanoparticles, suggesting their suitability for antioxidant loading. Based on the preformulation study, tristearin-based nanostructured lipid carriers loaded with α-tocopherol were selected for ex vivo studies since they displayed superior physico-chemical properties as compared to the other nanostructured lipid carriers compositions. Human skin explants were treated with α-tocopherol-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers and then exposed to cigarette smoke, and the protein levels of the stress-induced enzyme heme oxygenase were analyzed in skin homogenates. Interestingly, it was found that pretreatment with the nanoformulation resulted in significantly reduced heme oxygenase upregulation as compared to control samples, suggesting a protective effect provided by the nanoparticles.