Biotechnology Applied to Cosmetics and Aesthetic Medicines

Real-world experience with a treatment with a skincare regimen of products containing the Macrocystis pyrifera ferment for optimizing facial skin rejuvenation

BACKGROUND

Specialized aesthetic skincare treatments are an important part of helping reduce facial signs of aging.

AIMS

This article highlights real-world experience with a Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing skincare regimen comprising a cleansing foam, a serum, and a moisturizer with anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, anti-erythema, and healing properties for facial skin condition improvement.

PATIENTS/METHODS

The real-world case (RWC) series presented highlights and the expert panel's clinical experience with the M. pyrifera ferment-containing skincare regimen used for 12 weeks to improve facial skin conditions. The panelists convened a meeting to discuss and select RWCs from their practice using the M. pyrifera ferment-containing skincare regimen.

RESULTS

The RWC series showed that erythema and inflamed, easily irritated skin bother patients, even when it is mild. Reducing inflammation, erythema, and visible signs of facial aging and improving skin health contributed to patient satisfaction.

CONCLUSION

The M. pyrifera ferment-containing skincare regimen comprising a cleansing foam, a serum, and a moisturizer is effective in decreasing the visible effects of inflammation and signs of aging while promoting healing by enhancing barrier resilience and recovery.

Protective effect of Bifidobacterium animalis CGMCC25262 on HaCaT keratinocytes

Bifidobacteria are the most prevalent members of the intestinal microbiota in mammals and other animals, and they play a significant role in promoting gut health through their probiotic effects. Recently, the potential applications of Bifidobacteria have been extended to skin health. However, the beneficial mechanism of Bifidobacteria on the skin barrier remains unclear. In this study, keratinocyte HaCaT cells were used as models to evaluate the protective effects of the cell-free supernatant (CFS), heat-inactivated bacteria, and bacterial lysate of Bifidobacterium animalis CGMCC25262 on the skin barrier and inflammatory cytokines. The results showed that all the tested samples were able to upregulate the transcription levels of biomarker genes associated with the skin barrier, such as hyaluronic acid synthetase (HAS) and aquaporins (AQPs). Notably, the transcription of the hyaluronic acid synthetase gene-2 (HAS-2) is upregulated by 3~4 times, and AQP3 increased by 2.5 times when the keratinocyte HaCaT cells were co-incubated with 0.8 to 1% CFS. In particular, the expression level of Filaggrin (FLG) in HaCaT cells increased by 1.7 to 2.7 times when incubated with Bifidobacterial samples, reaching its peak at a concentration of 0.8% CFS. Moreover, B. animalis CGMCC25262 also decreased the expression of the proinflammatory cytokine RANTES to one-tenth compared to the levels observed in HaCaT cells induced with tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α) and interferon gamma (IFN-γ). These results demonstrate the potential of B. animalis CGMCC25262 in protecting the skin barrier and reducing inflammatory response.

Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing creams for optimizing facial skin rejuvenation

BACKGROUND

There is an increasing demand for facial skin rejuvenation. Specialized aesthetic skincare treatments may be one of the first steps to help prevent or treat facial signs of aging. This article discusses aesthetic skin care for facial skin rejuvenation, particularly data on two creams containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment.

METHODS

The authors convened a dermatology advisory board to discuss challenges and practices in using skincare for facial rejuvenation, combining their expert opinion and experience on facial rejuvenation with preclinical and clinical data on two creams containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and a review of the literature.

RESULTS

Preclinical and clinical studies on Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and two creams containing the ferment exhibit anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and healing properties. In preclinical studies, the ferment demonstrated collagen type I enhancing properties in ex vivo skin models, and skin cells treated with the ferment migrated faster than untreated cells in the in vitro study. In clinical studies measuring visible anti-inflammatory activity, the ferment alone and the ferment-containing products significantly decreased erythema, and in anti-aging studies, they improved visible skin aging parameters. Finally, in clinical studies on the stratum corneum, the two creams increased moisture levels and decreased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), reflecting healing by enhancing barrier strength and recovery.

CONCLUSIONS

The Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and creams containing the ferment are effective skin care treatment products to decrease the visible effects of inflammation and signs of aging while promoting healing by enhancing barrier resilience and recovery.

Finding and engineering the newly found bacterial superoxide dismutase enzyme to increase its thermostability and decrease the immunogenicity: a computational and experimental research

Superoxide dismutase (SOD) is one of the most important antioxidant enzymes that can reduce oxidative stress in the cell environment. Nowadays, bacterial sources of enzyme are commercially applicable in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries, but the allergenic effect of proteins from non-human sources has been mentioned as disadvantage of these kinds of enzymes. In this study, to find the suitable bacterial SOD candidate for decreasing immunogenicity, the sequences of five thermophilic bacteria were selected as reference species. Then, linear and conformational B-cell epitopes of the SOD were analyzed by different servers. The stability and immunogenicity of mutant positions were also evaluated. The mutant gene was inserted into the pET-23a expression vector and transformed into E. Coli BL21 (DE3) for expression of the recombinant enzyme. Afterward, the expression of the mutant enzyme was evaluated by SDS-PAGE analysis and the recombinant enzyme activity was assessed. Anoxybacillus gonensis was selected as a reasonable SOD source according to BLAST search, physicochemical properties analysis, and prediction of allergenic features. Regarding our results, five residues including E84, E142, K144, G147, and M148 were predicted as candidates for mutagenesis. Finally, the K144A was chosen as the final modification due to the increase in the stability of the enzyme and decreased immunogenicity of the enzyme as well. The enzyme activity was 240 U/ml at room temperature. Alternation in K144 to alanine caused increased stability of the enzyme. In silico studies confirmed non-antigenic protein after mutation.

Exploring the potential of Halomonas levan and its derivatives as active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations

Demand on natural products that contain biological ingredients mimicking growth factors and cytokines made natural polysaccharides popular in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Levan is the β-(2-6) linked, nontoxic, biocompatible, water-soluble, film former fructan polymer that has diverse applications in pharmacy and cosmeceutical industries with its moisturizing, whitening, anti-irritant, anti-aging and slimming activities. Driven by the limited reports on few structurally similar levan polymers, this study presents the first systematic investigation on the effects of structurally different extremophilic Halomonas levan polysaccharides on human skin epidermis cells. In-vitro experiments with microbially produced linear Halomonas levan (HL), its hydrolyzed, (hHL) and sulfonated (ShHL) derivatives as well as enzymatically produced branched levan (EL) revealed increased keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation (113-118 %), improved skin barrier function through induced expressions of involucrin (2.0 and 6.43 fold changes for HL and EL) and filaggrin (1.74 and 3.89 fold changes for hHL and ShHL) genes and increased type I collagen (2.63 for ShHL) and hyaluronan synthase 3 (1.41 for HL) gene expressions together with fast wound healing ability within 24 h (100 %, HL) on 2D wound models clearly showed that HL and its derivatives have high potential to be used as natural active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations.

Fungal production of kojic acid and its industrial applications

Kojic acid has gained its importance after it was known worldwide that the substance functions primarily as skin-lightening agent. Kojic acid plays a vital role in skin care products, as it enhances the ability to prevent exposure to UV radiation. It inhibits the tyrosinase formation which suppresses hyperpigmentation in human skin. Besides cosmetics, kojic acid is also greatly used in food, agriculture, and pharmaceuticals industries. Conversely, according to Global Industry Analysts, the Middle East, Asia, and in Africa especially, the demand of whitening cream is very high, and probably the market will reach to $31.2 billion by 2024 from $17.9 billion of 2017. The important kojic acid-producing strains were mainly belongs to the genus Aspergillus and Penicillium. Due to its commercial potential, it continues to attract the attention for its green synthesis, and the studies are still widely conducted to improve kojic acid production. Thus, the present review is focused on the current production processes, gene regulation, and limitation of its commercial production, probable reasons, and possible solutions. For the first time, detailed information on the metabolic pathway and the genes involved in kojic acid production, along with illustrations of genes, are highlighted in the present review. Demand and market applications of kojic acid and its regulatory approvals for its safer use are also discussed. KEY POINTS: • Kojic acid is an organic acid that is primarily produced by Aspergillus species. • It is mainly used in the field of health care and cosmetic industries. • Kojic acid and its derivatives seem to be safe molecules for human use.

Extract of Bletilla formosana callus elevates cellular antioxidative activity via Nrf2/HO-1 signaling pathway and inhibits melanogenesis in zebrafish

BACKGROUND

Bletilla species are endangered terrestrial orchids used in natural skin care formulas in Asia for a long history. In order to explore the bioactivity potential of Bletilla species as a cosmetic ingredient in a sustainable resource manner, the callus of Bletilla formosana (Hayata) Schltr. was established and extracted by an eco-friendly supercritical fluid CO₂ extraction (SFE-CO₂) method. The intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity and antioxidation-related gene expression of the callus extract were evaluated in both Hs68 fibroblast cells and HaCaT keratinocytes. The melanogenesis-inhibitory effect was investigated in B16F10 melanoma cells and in an in vivo zebrafish model.

RESULTS

The calli of B. formosana were propagated for 10-15 generations with a consistent yellow friable appearance and then subjected to SFE-CO₂ extraction to obtain a yellow pasty extract. Obvious intracellular ROS scavenging activity of the extract was detected in both Hs68 and HaCaT cells with 64.30 ± 8.27% and 32.50 ± 4.05% reduction at the concentration of 250 μg/mL. Moreover, marked expression levels of heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) and (NAD(P)H) quinone oxidoreductase-1 (NQO1) genes were detected after 6-h and 24-h treatments. These results indicate the cellular antioxidative activity of B. formosana callus extract was probably activated via the nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)/HO-1 signaling pathway. Melanogenesis-inhibitory effect of the extract was observed in α-MSH stimuli-inducing B16F10 cells with 28.46% inhibition of intracellular melanin content at the concentration of 50 μg/ml. The effect was confirmed with in vivo zebrafish embryos that showed a relative pigmentation density of 80.27 ± 7.98% at the concentration of 100 μg/mL without toxicity.

CONCLUSION

Our results shed light on a sustainable utilization of Bletilla species as a potential ingredient for skin.

Production of glycerate from glucose using engineered Escherichiacoli

In this study, glycerate was produced from glucose using engineered Escherichia coli BW25113. Plasmid pSR3 carrying gpd1 and gpp2 encoding two isoforms of glycerol-3-phosphate dehydrogenase from Saccharomyces cerevisiae and plasmid pLB2 carrying aldO encoding alditol oxidase from Streptomyces violaceoruber were introduced into E. coli to enable the production of glycerate from glucose via glycerol. Disruptions of garK and glxK genes in the E. coli genome were performed to minimize the consumption of glycerate produced. As a result, E. coli carrying these plasmids could produce nearly three times higher concentration of glycerate (0.50 ± 0.01 g/L) from 10 g/L glucose compared to E. coli EG_2 (0.14 ± 0.02 g/L). In M9 medium, disruption of garK and glxK resulted in an impaired growth rate with low production of glycerate, while supplementation of 0.5 g/L casamino acids and 0.5 g/L manganese sulfate to the medium replenished the growth rate and elevated the glycerate titer. Further disruption of glpF, encoding a glycerol transporter, increased the glycerate production to 0.80 ± 0.00 g/L. MR2 medium improved the glycerate production titers and specific productivities of E. coli EG_4, EG_5, and EG_6. Upscale production of glycerate was carried out in a jar fermentor with MR2 medium using E. coli EG_6, resulting in an improvement in glycerate production up to 2.37 ± 0.46 g/L with specific productivity at 0.34 ± 0.11 g-glycerate/g-cells. These results indicate that E. coli is an appropriate host for glycerate production from glucose.

Short-Term UVB Irradiation Leads to Persistent DNA Damage in Limbal Epithelial Stem Cells, Partially Reversed by DNA Repairing Enzymes

The cornea is frequently exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and absorbs a portion of this radiation. UVB in particular is absorbed by the cornea and will principally damage the topmost layer of the cornea, the epithelium. Epidemiological research shows that the UV damage of DNA is a contributing factor to corneal diseases such as pterygium. There are two main DNA photolesions of UV: cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and pyrimidine-pyrimidone (6-4) photoproducts (6-4PPs). Both involve the abnormal linking of adjacent pyrimide bases. In particular, CPD lesions, which account for the vast majority of UV-induced lesions, are inefficiently repaired by nucleotide excision repair (NER) and are thus mutagenic and linked to cancer development in humans. Here, we apply two exogenous enzymes: CPD photolyase (CPDPL) and T4 endonuclease V (T4N5). The efficacy of these enzymes was assayed by the proteomic and immunofluorescence measurements of UVB-induced CPDs before and after treatment. The results showed that CPDs can be rapidly repaired by T4N5 in cell cultures. The usage of CPDPL and T4N5 in ex vivo eyes revealed that CPD lesions persist in the corneal limbus. The proteomic analysis of the T4N5-treated cells shows increases in the components of the angiogenic and inflammatory systems. We conclude that T4N5 and CPDPL show great promise in the treatment of CPD lesions, but the complete clearance of CPDs from the limbus remains a challenge.

Biocosmetics: technological advances and future outlook

The paper provides an overview of biocosmetics, which has tremendous potential for growth and is attracting huge business opportunities. It emphasizes the immediate need to replace conventional fossil-based ingredients in cosmetics with natural, safe, and effective ingredients. It assembles recent technologies viable in the production/extraction of the bioactive ingredient, product development, and formulation processes, its rapid and smooth delivery to the target site, and fosters bio-based cosmetic packaging. It further explores industries that can be a trailblazer in supplying raw material for extraction of bio-based ingredients for cosmetics, creating biodegradable packaging, or weaving innovation in fashion clothing. Lastly, the paper discusses what it takes to become the first generation of a circular economy and supports the implementation of strict regulatory guidelines for any cosmetic sold globally.

Advances in Hyaluronic Acid for Biomedical Applications

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a large non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan that is the main component of the extracellular matrix (ECM). Because of its strong and diversified functions applied in broad fields, HA has been widely studied and reported previously. The molecular properties of HA and its derivatives, including a wide range of molecular weights but distinct effects on cells, moisture retention and anti-aging, and CD44 targeting, promised its role as a popular participant in tissue engineering, wound healing, cancer treatment, ophthalmology, and cosmetics. In recent years, HA and its derivatives have played an increasingly important role in the aforementioned biomedical fields in the formulation of coatings, nanoparticles, and hydrogels. This article highlights recent efforts in converting HA to smart formulation, such as multifunctional coatings, targeted nanoparticles, or injectable hydrogels, which are used in advanced biomedical application.

Review on the Use of Kojic Acid—A Skin-Lightening Ingredient

This article reviews the use of Kojic Acid (KA) as a skin-lightening ingredient in the cosmetics industry. In 1907, Saito discovered KA, a natural product; it has since become one of the most investigated skin-lightening agents. This paper highlights the findings of the research conducted on this agent. It has been found that KA has certain disadvantages, and researchers have attempted to mitigate these disadvantages by designing new equivalents of KA that are more efficient in tyrosinase inhibition. These equivalents are also safe to use and have improved properties and solubility. The Cosmeceutical Ingredient Review (CIR) indicates that this ingredient can be safely used at a concentration not higher than 1% due to its cytotoxicity. Other scientific data also support its safety at a concentration of 2% or less. It was shown to be helpful in the treatment of hyper pigmentary disorders, such as freckles, age spots, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and melasma, which has been proven clinically.

UV Protection in the Cornea: Failure and Rescue

Simple Summary

The sun is a deadly laser, and its damaging rays harm exposed tissues such as our skin and eyes. The skin’s protection and repair mechanisms are well understood and utilized in therapeutic approaches while the eye lacks such complete understanding of its defenses and therefore often lacks therapeutic support in most cases. The aim here was to document the similarities and differences between the two tissues as well as understand where current research stands on ocular, particularly corneal, ultraviolet protection. The objective is to identify what mechanisms may be best suited for future investigation and valuable therapeutic approaches.

Abstract

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation induces DNA lesions in all directly exposed tissues. In the human body, two tissues are chronically exposed to UV: the skin and the cornea. The most frequent UV-induced DNA lesions are cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) that can lead to apoptosis or induce tumorigenesis. Lacking the protective pigmentation of the skin, the transparent cornea is particularly dependent on nucleotide excision repair (NER) to remove UV-induced DNA lesions. The DNA damage response also triggers intracellular autophagy mechanisms to remove damaged material in the cornea; these mechanisms are poorly understood despite their noted involvement in UV-related diseases. Therapeutic solutions involving xenogenic DNA-repair enzymes such as T4 endonuclease V or photolyases exist and are widely distributed for dermatological use. The corneal field lacks a similar set of tools to address DNA-lesions in photovulnerable patients, such as those with genetic disorders or recently transplanted tissue.

Functional Compounds from Banana Peel Used to Decrease Oxidative Stress Effects

Banana peel, a little-used waste, contains a high amount of biologically active compounds. The aim of the study is to demonstrate in vitro, the antioxidant, cytotoxic, and antimicrobial effects of hydroalcoholic extracts from yellow (BP) and red (BPR) banana peels. The analysis of the extracts by Capillary Zone Electrophoresis (CZE) has confirmed the presence of several bioactive compounds. BPR has a higher in vitro antioxidant activity than BP, which correlates with a significant cytotoxic, antimicrobial effect, with a UVA/UVB rate of 0.9. In the case of BPR, the results confirm the presence of isoquercitrin and kaempferol in a 1:3 ratio. The bioactive compounds from the extracts have shown a different interaction with HCT-8 cell lines and with tested bacterial strains with pathogenic properties. The HCA analysis proved the biological value of BPR to reduce oxidative stress and its potential use in natural products.

In silico gene knockout prediction using a hybrid of Bat algorithm and minimization of metabolic adjustment

Microorganisms commonly produce many high-demand industrial products like fuels, food, vitamins, and other chemicals. Microbial strains are the strains of microorganisms, which can be optimized to improve their technological properties through metabolic engineering. Metabolic engineering is the process of overcoming cellular regulation in order to achieve a desired product or to generate a new product that the host cells do not usually need to produce. The prediction of genetic manipulations such as gene knockout is part of metabolic engineering. Gene knockout can be used to optimize the microbial strains, such as to maximize the production rate of chemicals of interest. Metabolic and genetic engineering is important in producing the chemicals of interest as, without them, the product yields of many microorganisms are normally low. As a result, the aim of this paper is to propose a combination of the Bat algorithm and the minimization of metabolic adjustment (BATMOMA) to predict which genes to knock out in order to increase the succinate and lactate production rates in Escherichia coli (E. coli).

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

Physicochemical characterization and in vitro antioxidant activity of hyaluronic acid produced by Streptococcus zooepidemicus CCT 7546

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a biopolymer with applications in different areas such as medicine and cosmetics. HA is currently either isolated from animal sources or produced by microbial fermentation. Animal HA presents some disadvantages such as high cost and risk of viral cross-species or another infectious agent. In the present study, we evaluated the physicochemical characteristics and in vitro antioxidant capacity of HA produced by Streptococcus zooepidemicus CCT 7546. In addition, commercial sodium hyaluronate (SH) from an animal source was used as control. The microbial HA yield after purification was 69.8 mg/L. According to Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, it was seen that bacterial and animal HA spectra are overlapped. The thermogravimetric analysis revealed that microbial HA was more stable than its equivalent from the animal source. However, scanning electron microscopy indicates that the purification method used in the animal product was more effective. Microbial HA showed activity in total antioxidant capacity (14.02 ± 0.38%), reducing power (18.18 ± 6.43%), DPPH radical-scavenging (5.57 ± 0.23 kmol TE/g), and hydroxyl radical-scavenging (28.39 ± 2.40%) tests. Therefore, in vitro antioxidant tests demonstrated that the antioxidant action mechanism occurs through scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS) and donating electrons/hydrogen atoms.

Molecular biology interventions for activity improvement and production of industrial enzymes

Metagenomics and directed evolution technology have brought a revolution in search of novel enzymes from extreme environment and improvement of existing enzymes and tuning them towards certain desired properties. Using advanced tools of molecular biology i.e. next generation sequencing, site directed mutagenesis, fusion protein, surface display, etc. now researchers can engineer enzymes for improved activity, stability, and substrate specificity to meet the industrial demand. Although many enzymatic processes have been developed up to industrial scale, still there is a need to overcome limitations of maintaining activity during the catalytic process. In this article recent developments in enzymes industrial applications and advancements in metabolic engineering approaches to improve enzymes efficacy and production are reviewed.