Biological mechanisms underlying the ultraviolet radiation-induced formation of skin wrinkling and sagging I: reduced skin elasticity, highly associated with enhanced dermal elastase activity, triggers wrinkling and sagging

Omega-3 fatty acids mitigate skin damage caused by ultraviolet-B radiation

Mice fed a diet containing an adequate amount of ω-3 fatty acids (ω-3 Adq) or a deficient diet (ω-3 Def) were irradiated with ultraviolet-B (UV-B) and were measured daily changes in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). TEWL was significantly increased in ω-3 Def mice with repeated UV-B irradiation, but this increase was significantly reduced in ω-3 Adq mice. The epidermal layers revealed thickening of the spinous and basal layers induced by UV-B irradiation in both groups. Moreover, the ω-3 Def mice had a disturbed epidermal structure and a coarser stratum corneum. And the granule cell layer is significantly reduced, and abnormal layer formation (parakeratosis) occurred in the stratum corneum. These results suggest that continuous UV-B irradiation promotes epidermal turnover and leads to epidermal thickening, but ω-3 fatty acids protect the body from UV-B-induced stress.

The Efficacy and Safety of CollaSel Pro® Hydrolyzed Collagen Peptide Supplementation without Addons in Improving Skin Health in Adult Females: A Double Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study Using Biophysical and Skin Imaging Techniques

Background: This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of oral hydrolyzed collagen peptide (HCP) in healthy females by assessing the skin parameters via biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Methods: 112 females were randomly assigned to receive either HCP (n = 57; 10 g CollaSel Pro®) or placebo (n = 55; 10 g maltodextrin) daily for eight weeks. The contribution of HCP to skin elasticity, hydration, and roughness was investigated against a placebo, while the facial soft tissue sagging (RMS) and safety data were also recorded. Results: HCP was associated with significant improvements in skin elasticity (p = 0.009), skin hydration (p ranged from 0.003 to <0.001), and skin roughness (p ranged from 0.002 to <0.001). In the HCP vs. the placebo group, week eight values for skin elasticity (43.0 (7.4) vs. 40.3 (3.3) mPa, p = 0.017), skin hydration (65.8 (18.9) vs. 53.1 (14.9) g/m3, p < 0.001) and skin roughness (40.2 (20.4) vs. 24.9 (20.9) g/m3, p < 0.001) were significantly higher. In the HCP group, week 8 RMS values were significantly lower than baseline values (1.02 (0.21) vs. 1.10 (0.21) mm, p = 0.012). Conclusions: CollaSel Pro® HCP can be considered a well-tolerated, safe product that effectively improves dermal health and the appearance of sagging and ameliorates the signs of the aging process.

Matrix Metalloproteinases on Skin Photoaging

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is characterized by an imbalance between the generation and degradation of extracellular matrix molecules (ECM). Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) are the primary enzymes responsible for ECM breakdown. Intrinsic and extrinsic stimuli can induce different MMPs. However, there is limited literature especially on the summary of skin MMPs and potential inhibitors.

OBJECTIVE

We aim to focus on the upregulation of MMP expression or activity in skin cells following exposure to UV radiation. We also would like to offer valuable insights into potential clinical applications of MMP inhibitors for mitigating skin aging.

METHODS

This article presents the summary of prior research, which involved an extensive literature search across diverse academic databases including Web of Science and PubMed.

RESULTS

Our findings offer a comprehensive insight into the effects of MMPs on skin aging after UV irradiation, including their substrate preferences and distinct roles in this process. Additionally, a comprehensive list of natural plant and animal extracts, proteins, polypeptides, amino acids, as well as natural and synthetic compounds that serve as inhibitors for MMPs is compiled.

CONCLUSION

Skin aging is a complex process influenced by environmental factors and MMPs. Research focuses on UV-induced skin damage and the formation of Advanced Glycosylation End Products (AGEs), leading to wrinkles and impaired functionality. Inhibiting MMPs is crucial for maintaining youthful skin. Natural sources of MMP inhibitor substances, such as extracts from plants and animals, offer a safer approach to obtain inhibitors through dietary supplements. Studying isolated active ingredients can contribute to developing targeted MMP inhibitors.

Development of Transdermal Formulation Integrating Polymer-Based Solid Microneedles and Thermoresponsive Gel Fucoidan for Antiaging: Proof of Concept Study

Skin can be damaged by intense and prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Photoaging and acute damage from sun exposure result in collagen degradation and enzymatic activity decline in the skin. Fucoidan (FUC) exhibits potential antiaging properties, including collagen synthesis promotion and enzyme activity inhibition. However, FUC's limited ability to penetrate the skin layers due to its large molecular weight makes it a challenge for topical application. In this study, we successfully developed a new approach by integrating thermoresponsive gel (TRG) containing FUC with solid microneedles (SMNs) as a delivery system. TRG is formulated using a combination of Pluronic F127 (PF127) and Pluronic F68 (PF68) polymers, while SMNs are made from a mixture of poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) and poly(vinylpyrrolidone) (PVP) polymers with a variety of cross-linkers. Based on the results of ex vivo testing, it was shown that more than 80% of FUC can be delivered using the optimized formula. Furthermore, the results of the in vitro blood hemolytic test showed that TRG-FUC-SMNs were relatively biocompatible. In vivo antiaging activity tests using a rat model exposed to UV for 14 days showed that histological assessment, skin elasticity measurement, wrinkle evaluation, and skin moisture content had no significant differences (p < 0.05) compared to the positive control group. In contrast, a significant difference (p < 0.05) was observed when comparing the TRG-FUC-SMNs group with the group that received only TRG-FUC without pretreatment and negative controls. These findings suggest that FUC has potential to be delivered using the TRG system in combination with SMNs to harness its antiaging properties.

Development of dissolving microneedles loaded with fucoidan for enhanced anti-aging activity: An in vivo study in mice animal model

Skin aging occurs naturally as essential skin components gradually decline, leading to issues such as fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation. Fucoidan, a natural bioactive compound, holds potential for addressing these age-related concerns. However, its hydrophilic nature and substantial molecular weight hinder its absorption into the skin. In this study, we utilized polyvinyl pyrrolidone K30 (PVP) and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) as polymers to fabricate dissolving microneedles loaded with fucoidan (DMN-F). The DMN-F formulations were examined for physical characteristics, stability, permeability, toxicity, and efficacy in animal models. These formulations exhibited consistent polymer blends with a conical structure and uniform cone-shaped design. Microneedle structure and penetration capability gradually decreased with increasing fucoidan concentration, with storage recommended at approximately 33 % relative humidity (RH). Ex vivo studies showed that DMN-F efficiently delivered up to 95.03 ± 2.36 % of the total fucoidan concentration into the skin. In vivo investigations revealed that DMN-F effectively reduced wrinkles, improved skin elasticity, maintained moisture levels, and increased epidermal thickness. Histological images provided additional evidence of DMN-F's positive effects on these aging parameters. The results confirm that the DMN-F formulation effectively delivers fucoidan into the skin, allowing it to treat and mitigate signs of aging.

RiboScreenTM Technology Delivers a Ribosomal Target and a Small-Molecule Ligand for Ribosome Editing to Boost the Production Levels of Tropoelastin, the Monomeric Unit of Elastin

Elastin, a key structural protein essential for the elasticity of the skin and elastogenic tissues, degrades with age. Replenishing elastin holds promise for anti-aging cosmetics and the supplementation of elastic activities of the cardiovascular system. We employed RiboScreenTM, a technology for identifying molecules that enhance the production of specific proteins, to target the production of tropoelastin. We make use of RiboScreenTM in two crucial steps: first, to pinpoint a target ribosomal protein (TRP), which acts as a switch to increase the production of the protein of interest (POI), and second, to identify small molecules that activate this ribosomal protein switch. Using RiboScreenTM, we identified ribosomal protein L40, henceforth eL40, as a TRP switch to boost tropoelastin production. Drug discovery identified a small-molecule hit that binds to eL40. In-cell treatment demonstrated activity of the eL40 ligand and delivered increased tropoelastin production levels in a dose-dependent manner. Thus, we demonstrate that RiboScreenTM can successfully identify a small-molecule hit capable of selectively enhancing tropoelastin production. This compound has the potential to be developed for topical or systemic applications to promote skin rejuvenation and to supplement elastic functionality within the cardiovascular system.

A Clean and Health-Care-Focused Way to Reduce Indoor Airborne Bacteria in Calf House with Long-Wave Ultraviolet

Long-term exposure to a relatively high concentration of airborne bacteria emitted from intensive livestock houses could potentially threaten the health and welfare of animals and workers. There is a dual effect of air sterilization and promotion of vitamin D synthesis for the specific bands of ultraviolet light. This study investigated the potential use of A-band ultraviolet (UVA) tubes as a clean and safe way of reducing airborne bacteria and improving calf health. The composition and emission characteristics of airborne bacteria were investigated and used to determine the correct operating regime of UVA tubes in calf houses. Intermittent exceedances of indoor airborne bacteria were observed in closed calf houses. The measured emission intensity of airborne bacteria was 1.13 ± 0.09 × 107 CFU h-1 per calf. Proteobacteria were the dominant microbial species in the air inside and outside calf houses. After UVA radiation, the indoor culturable airborne bacteria decreased in all particle size ranges of the Anderson sampler, and it showed the highest reduction rate in the size range of 3.3-4.7 μm. The results of this study would enrich the knowledge of the source characteristics of the airborne bacteria in intensive livestock farming and contribute to the environmental control of cattle in intensive livestock production.

The effects of Jawoongo soap on skin improvement

BACKGROUND

Jawoongo is used to treat and prevent skin issues such as dry and keratinization disorders, burns, trauma, pigmentation, scarring, and inflammatory skin conditions. In this study, the efficacy and safety of 0.47% Jawoongo extract-containing soap (JAUN-CS) were assessed in terms of skin improvement effects such as cleansing, moisturizing, sebum secretion management, and skin elasticity enhancement.

METHODS

Twenty healthy adult men and women aged 20-60 years old took part in the study. Before and after using JAUN-CS, the participants were divided into groups, and various skin improvement effects were measured utilizing machines such as the Corneometer, Tewameter TM 300, and Visioscan. A dermatologist analyzed the product's safety in accordance with Frosch & Kligman and the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) rules.

RESULTS

Using JAUN reduced the amount of base and point makeup by 25.7% and 76.7%, respectively. Also, JAUN showed a great facial exfoliation effect by removing the old and lifted skin keratins by 84.7% and 20.3%, respectively. Impurities in facial pores decreased by 58%, too. Furthermore, JAUN increased the moisture content of deep skin and skin surface by 3.5% and 74.0%, and skin elasticity by 2.8%. Skin tone, skin texture, skin radiance, and skin barrier all showed improvements of 3.3%, 20.0%, 15.0%, and 115.2%, respectively. Lastly, cleansing with JAUN successfully enhanced the condition of the youth triangle by 7.6%, while TEWL significantly decreased by 52.7%. Neither the JAUN nor the control group soap showed any adverse reactions, such as erythema or allergies, during the testing period.

CONCLUSIONS

The results of this study demonstrated that JAUN is safe for human use and has various skin-improving properties, making Jawoongo a promising natural material for the development of functional cosmetics in the future.

Type I Diabetes Mellitus Suppresses Experimental Skin Carcinogenesis

This study explores the previously uncharted territory of the effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on diabetic skin, compared to its well-documented impact on normal skin, particularly focusing on carcinogenesis and aging. Employing hairless SKH-hr2, Type 1 and 2 diabetic, and nondiabetic male mice, the research subjected these to UV radiation thrice weekly for eight months. The investigation included comprehensive assessments of photoaging and photocarcinogenesis in diabetic versus normal skin, measuring factors such as hydration, trans-epidermal water loss, elasticity, skin thickness, melanin, sebum content, stratum corneum exfoliation and body weight, alongside photo documentation. Additionally, oxidative stress and the presence of hydrophilic antioxidants (uric acid and glutathione) in the stratum corneum were evaluated. Histopathological examination post-sacrifice provided insights into the morphological changes. Findings reveal that under UV exposure, Type 1 diabetic skin showed heightened dehydration, thinning, and signs of accelerated aging. Remarkably, Type 1 diabetic mice did not develop squamous cell carcinoma or pigmented nevi, contrary to normal and Type 2 diabetic skin. This unexpected resistance to UV-induced skin cancers in Type 1 diabetic skin prompts a crucial need for further research to uncover the underlying mechanisms providing this resistance.

HSP47 Increases the Expression of Type I Collagen in Fibroblasts through IRE1α Activation, XBP1 Splicing, and Nuclear Translocation of β-Catenin

Heat shock protein 47 (HSP47), also known as SERPINH1, functions as a collagen-specific molecular chaperone protein essential for the formation and stabilization of the collagen triple helix. Here, we delved into the regulatory pathways governed by HSP47, shedding light on collagen homeostasis. Our investigation revealed a significant reduction in HSP47 mRNA levels in the skin tissue of older mice as compared to their younger counterparts. The augmented expression of HSP47 employing lentivirus infection in fibroblasts resulted in an increased secretion of type I collagen. Intriguingly, the elevated expression of HSP47 in fibroblasts correlated with increased protein and mRNA levels of type I collagen. The exposure of fibroblasts to IRE1α RNase inhibitors resulted in the reduced manifestation of HSP47-induced type I collagen secretion and expression. Notably, HSP47-overexpressing fibroblasts exhibited increased XBP1 mRNA splicing. The overexpression of HSP47 or spliced XBP1 facilitated the nuclear translocation of β-catenin and transactivated a reporter harboring TCF binding sites on the promoter. Furthermore, the overexpression of HSP47 or spliced XBP1 or the augmentation of nuclear β-catenin through Wnt3a induced the expression of type I collagen. Our findings substantiate that HSP47 enhances type I collagen expression and secretion in fibroblasts by orchestrating a mechanism that involves an increase in nuclear β-catenin through IRE1α activation and XBP1 splicing. This study therefore presents potential avenues for an anti-skin-aging strategy targeting HSP47-mediated processes.

Exosomal microRNA-Based therapies for skin diseases

Based on engineered cell/exosome technology and various skin-related animal models, exosomal microRNA (miRNA)-based therapies derived from natural exosomes have shown good therapeutic effects on nine skin diseases, including full-thickness skin defects, diabetic ulcers, skin burns, hypertrophic scars, psoriasis, systemic sclerosis, atopic dermatitis, skin aging, and hair loss. Comparative experimental research showed that the therapeutic effect of miRNA-overexpressing exosomes was better than that of their natural exosomes. Using a dual-luciferase reporter assay, the targets of all therapeutic miRNAs in skin cells have been screened and confirmed. For these nine types of skin diseases, a total of 11 animal models and 21 exosomal miRNA-based therapies have been developed. This review provides a detailed description of the animal models, miRNA therapies, disease evaluation indicators, and treatment results of exosomal miRNA therapies, with the aim of providing a reference and guidance for future clinical trials. There is currently no literature on the merits or drawbacks of miRNA therapies compared with standard treatments.

Ginseng root-derived exosome-like nanoparticles protect skin from UV irradiation and oxidative stress by suppressing activator protein-1 signaling and limiting the generation of reactive oxygen species

Background

Recently, plant-derived exosome-like nanoparticles (PDENs) have been isolated, and active research was focusing on understanding their properties and functions. In this study, the characteristics and molecular properties of ginseng root-derived exosome-like nanoparticles (GrDENs) were examined in terms of skin protection.

Methods

HPLC-MS protocols were used to analyze the ginsenoside contents in GrDENs. To investigate the beneficial effect of GrDENs on skin, HaCaT cells were pre-treated with GrDENs (0-2 × 109 particles/mL), and followed by UVB irradiation or H2O2 exposure. In addition, the antioxidant activity of GrDENs was measured using a fluorescence microscope or flow cytometry. Finally, molecular mechanisms were examined with immunoblotting analysis.

Results

GrDENs contained detectable levels of ginsenosides (Re, Rg1, Rb1, Rf, Rg2 (S), Gyp17, Rd, C-Mc1, C-O, and F2). In UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells, GrDENs protected cells from death and reduced ROS production. GrDENs downregulated the mRNA expression of proapoptotic genes, including BAX, caspase-1, -3, -6, -7, and -8 and the ratio of cleaved caspase-8, -9, and -3 in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, GrDENs reduced the mRNA levels of aging-related genes (MMP2 and 3), proinflammatory genes (COX-2 and IL-6), and cellular senescence biomarker p21, possibly by suppressing activator protein-1 signaling.

Conclusions

This study demonstrates the protective effects of GrDENs against skin damage caused by UV and oxidative stress, providing new insights into beneficial uses of ginseng. In particular, our results suggest GrDENs as a potential active ingredient in cosmeceuticals to promote skin health.

Annurca Apple Oleolite as Functional Ingredient for the Formulation of Cosmetics with Skin-Antiaging Activity

The identification of natural remedies for the management of the skin aging process is an increasingly growing issue. In this context, ursolic acid (UA), a ubiquitous molecule, mainly contained in Annurca apple (AA) fruit, has demonstrated valuable cosmetic potential. To this end, in the current study, the AA oleolite (AAO, extract in sunflower oil containing 784.40 ± 7.579 µg/mL of UA) was evaluated to inhibit porcine elastase enzymatic reactions through a validated spectrophotometric method. AAO has shown a valuable capacity to contrast the elastase enzyme with a calculated IC50 of 212.76 mg/mL, in comparison to UA (IC50 of 135.24 μg/mL) pure molecules and quercetin (IC50 of 72.47 μg/mL) which are used as positive controls. In this context and in view of the valuable antioxidant potential of AAO, its topical formulation with 2.5% (w/w) AAO was tested in a placebo-controlled, double-blind, two-arm clinical study on 40 volunteers. Our results indicated that after 28 days of treatment, a significant reduction of the nasolabial fold (-7.2 vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001) and forehead wrinkles (-5.3 vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001) were registered in combination with a valuable improvement of the viscoelastic skin parameters, where skin pliability/firmness (R0) and gross elasticity (R2) were significantly ameliorated (-13% vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001 for R0 and +12% vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001 for R2). Finally, considering the positive correlation between skin elasticity and hydration, the skin moisture was evaluated through the estimation of Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin conductance.

Single-Walled Carbon Nanotube-Guided Topical Skin Delivery of Tyrosinase to Prevent Photoinduced Damage

When the skin is exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UV), it leads to the degradation of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and results in inflammation. Subsequently, melanocytes are triggered to induce tyrosinase-mediated melanin synthesis, protecting the skin. Here, we introduce a proactive approach to protect the skin from photodamage via the topical delivery of Streptomyces avermitilis-derived tyrosinase (SaTy) using single-walled carbon nanotube (SWNT). Utilizing a reverse electrodialysis (RED) battery, we facilitated the delivery of SaTy-SWNT complexes up to depths of approximately 300 μm, as analyzed by using confocal Raman microscopy. When applied to ex vivo porcine skin and in vivo albino mouse skin, SaTy-SWNT synthesized melanin, resulting in 4-fold greater UV/vis absorption at 475 nm than in mice without SaTy-SWNT. The synthesized melanin efficiently absorbed UV light and alleviated skin inflammation. In addition, the densification of dermal collagen, achieved through SaTy-mediated cross-linking, reduced photoinduced wrinkles by 66.3% in the affected area. Our findings suggest that SWNT-mediated topical protein delivery holds promise in tissue engineering applications.

Dermato-cosmeceutical properties of Pseudobombax ellipticum (Kunth) Dugand: Chemical profiling, in vitro and in silico studies

Plant extracts and their individual components have been used to manage skin aging for several decades. Recently, the discovery of new natural bioactive agents, that not only enhance the skin health but also offer protection against various deleterious factors, such as free radicals, ultraviolet radiation, and microbial infections, has been a potential target by many researchers. The aim of the current work was to investigate the phytochemical profile of an ethanol bark extract from Pseudobombax ellipticum, and to evaluate its antioxidant, antiaging and antibacterial activities in vitro. Molecular docking and molecular dynamics studies were adopted to estimate and confirm the binding affinity of several compounds and explain their binding pattern at the binding sites of four target enzymes associated with skin aging, namely collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase, and hyaluronidase. HPLC-MS/MS analysis led to the tentative identification of 35 compounds comprising phenolic acids, and their glycosides, procyanidins and flavonoid glycosides. The extract demonstrated a promising in vitro antioxidant activity in the DPPH and FRAP assays (IC50 56.45 and 15.34 μg/mL, respectively), and was able to inhibit the aforementioned key enzymes with comparable results to the reference drugs. In addition, the extract (6.25 mg/mL) inhibited the biofilm production of Pseudomonas aeruginosa and diminished the swimming and swarming motilities. The docked compounds revealed appreciable binding energy with the tested enzymes and were stable throughout the molecular dynamic simulations. In view of this data, P. ellipticum bark can be regarded as a good candidate for prospective application in derma-cosmeceutical preparations.

Taif Rose Oil Ameliorates UVB-Induced Oxidative Damage and Skin Photoaging in Rats via Modulation of MAPK and MMP Signaling Pathways

Short-wave UVB (ultraviolet B) causes rapid oxidative damage to the skin. Rose water is obtained mainly from the petals of Rosa damascena Mill. (Rosaceae) and used traditionally to hydrate dry skin and reduce signs of aging. This work aimed at evaluating the possible protective potential of the prepared eco-friendly Taif rose oil nanoemulsion (ROSE-NANO) against UVB-induced photoaging in adult male Wistar rats. Taif rose oil (ROSE) was obtained from R. damascene by classical steam distillation and formulated in emulgel (100 mg/g). In addition, the oil was formulated in ROSE-NANO-loaded emulgel (50 and 100 mg/g) to enhance the effect of ROSE. All prepared formulas were tested topically for their potential protective effect in UV-induced skin photoaging. The obtained results demonstrated that application of ROSE-NANO-loaded emulgel resulted in superior antiaging potency over ROSE emulgel based on histological studies as well as biochemical evaluations via amendment in CAT and SOD activities, decreasing the concentration of the inflammatory markers and preventing collagen fragmentation through reduction of MMP-9 content in fibroblasts. Moreover, a significant decrease in mRNA expression of NF-KB, JNK, ERK1/2, and p38 MAPK genes was observed. In conclusion, the current study provides scientific evidence for the traditional use of rose oil in skin aging. Moreover, the NANO formula showed promising efficacy as a skin photoprotector against UV-induced oxidative damage and skin aging.

Poly-L-Lactic Acid Fillers Improved Dermal Collagen Synthesis by Modulating M2 Macrophage Polarization in Aged Animal Skin

Poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA) fillers correct cutaneous volume loss by stimulating fibroblasts to synthesize collagen and by augmenting the volume. PLLA triggers the macrophage-induced activation of fibroblasts that secrete transforming growth factor-β (TGF-β). However, whether M2 macrophage polarization is involved in PLLA-induced collagen synthesis via fibroblast activation in aged skin is not known. Therefore, we evaluated the effect of PLLA on dermal collagen synthesis via M2 polarization in an H₂O₂-induced cellular senescence model and aged animal skin. H₂O₂-treated macrophages had increased expression levels of the M1 marker CD80 and decreased expression levels of the M2 marker CD163, which were reversed by PLLA. The expression levels of interleukin (IL)-4 and IL-13, which mediate M2 polarization, were decreased in H₂O₂-treated macrophages and increased upon the PLLA treatment. CD163, IL-4, and IL-13 expression levels were decreased in aged skin, but increased after the PLLA treatment. The expression levels of TGF-β, pSMAD2/SMAD2, connective tissue growth factor (CTGF), alpha-smooth muscle actin (α-SMA), collagen type 1A1 (COL1A1), and COL3A1 were also decreased in aged skin, but increased after the PLLA treatment. Moreover, PLLA upregulated phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase p85α (PI3-kinase p85α)/protein kinase B (AKT) signaling, leading to fibroblast proliferation. PLLA decreased the expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) 2 and MMP3, which destroy collagen and elastin fibers in aged skin. The amount of collagen and elastin fibers in aged skin increased following the PLLA treatment. In conclusion, PLLA causes M2 polarization by increasing IL-4 and IL-13 levels and upregulating TGF-β expression and collagen synthesis in aged skin.

Histological Skin Assessment of Patients Submitted to Bariatric Surgery: A Prospective Longitudinal Cohort Study

BACKGROUND

Obesity is a stigmatizing disease that can cause dermatological aberrations, such as sagging after rapid weight loss.

OBJECTIVE

This study is to evaluate the effects of obesity and massive weight loss following bariatric surgery on collagen and elastic fibers of the extracellular matrix of the skin.

METHODS

Thirty-three skin biopsies were collected from patients prior to bariatric surgery and one year after surgery. Histological analyses were performed using hematoxylin-eosin and Weigert's resorcin-fuchsin staining for collagen and elastic and elaunin fibers, respectively. Differences between means were submitted to the Student's t-test or Mann-Whitney U test, with p < 0.05 significant.

RESULTS

The study demonstrated an architectural alteration of the skin 1 year after bariatric surgery. In the histological analysis of the skin samples, a significant difference in the thickness of the epidermis was found 1 year after surgery in all age groups as well as in the 38-to-68-kg weight loss group (p < 0.0001). In addition to laxity, disorganization of collagen was found, with an apparent decrease in quantity and an increase in elastic fibers, although fragmented (p < 0.0001).

CONCLUSION

Obesity and massive weight loss following bariatric surgery cause the disorganization of collagen fibers and the fragmentation of elastic fibers of the extracellular matrix of the skin.

Helwah MK, Noureldin MH, Abbas H. Dual-effects of caffeinated hyalurosomes as a nano-cosmeceutical gel counteracting UV-induced skin ageing

Caffeine (CAF) is a challenging natural bioactive compound with proven antiaging efficacy. However, being hydrophilic hampers its permeation through the skin. Our aim is to develop a novel CAF-loaded nano-cosmeceutical tool counteracting skin photoaging via improving CAF skin permeation using a bioactive nanocarrier. Caffeinated hyalurosomes are novel biocompatible antiaging nanoplatforms designed by immobilization of phospholipid vesicles with a hyaluronan polymer. Physicochemical properties of the selected hyalurosomes formulation showed nano-sized vesicles (210.10 ± 1.87 nm), with high zeta potential (-31.30 ± 1.19 mv), and high encapsulation efficiency (84.60 ± 1.05%). In vitro release results showed outstanding sustained release profile from caffeinated hyalurosomes compared to the CAF-loaded in conventional gel over 24 h. The in-vivo study revealed a photoprotective effect of caffeinated hyalurosomes, reflected from the intact and wrinkling-free skin. Results of biochemical analyses of oxidative stress, pro-inflammatory mediators, and anti-wrinkling markers further confirmed the efficacy of the prepared hyalurosomes compared to the CAF conventional gel. Finally, histopathological examination demonstrated normal histological structures of epidermal layers with minimal inflammatory cell infiltrates in the caffeinated hyalurosomes group compared to the positive control group. Conclusively, caffeinated hyalurosomes successfully achieved enhanced CAF loading and penetration into the skin besides the hydration effect of hyaluronan. Consequently, the developed delivery system presents a promising skin protection nano-platforms via the double effects of both hyaluronan and CAF, hence it guards against skin photodamage.

Novel Siprulina platensis Bilosomes for Combating UVB Induced Skin Damage

The recent interest in bioactive compounds from natural sources has led to the evolution of the skin care industry. Efforts to develop biologically active ingredients from natural sources have resulted in the emergence of enhanced skin care products. Spirulina (SPR), a nutritionally enriched cyanobacteria-type microalga, is rich in nutrients and phytochemicals. SPR possesses antioxidant, immunomodulatory, and anti-inflammatory activities. Spirulina-loaded bilosomes (SPR-BS), a novel antiaging drug delivery system, were designed for the first time by incorporation in a lecithin−bile salt-integrated system for bypassing skin delivery obstacles. The optimized BS had good entrapment efficiency, small particle size, optimal zeta potential, and sustained drug release pattern. Blank and SPR-loaded BS formulations were safe, with a primary irritancy index of <2 based on the Draize test. In vivo tests were conducted, and photoprotective antiaging effects were evaluated visually and biochemically by analyzing antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-wrinkling markers following ultraviolet (UV) B irradiation. Results of biochemical marker analysis and histopathological examination confirmed the superior antiaging effect of SPR-BS compared with SPR. Thus, SPR-loaded BS is a promising nanoplatform for SPR delivery, can be used for treating UV-induced skin damage, and offers maximum therapeutic outcomes.

Photoprotective activities of Lignosus rhinocerus in UV-irradiated human keratinocytes

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Lignosus rhinocerus, also known as Tiger Milk Mushroom has been used traditionally to treat a variety of human conditions, including asthma, diabetes, respiratory disease, skin allergy, and food poisoning. The reported activities of Lignosus rhinocerus extracts include anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-asthmatic, anti-microbial, anti-cancer, neuroprotection, and immune modulation effects. However, its effect on human skin is not well documented, including human skin exposed to ultraviolet light (UV). Exposure to UV can trigger various cellular responses, including inflammation, oxidative stress, DNA damage, cell death, and cellular aging.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The study aims to investigate the effects of methanolic extract prepared from cultured Lignosus rhinocerus (herein referred to as TM02 and its methanol extract as TM02-ME) on UV-irradiated human keratinocytes.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Powdered stock of TM02 was dissolved and sequentially extracted with different solvents to prepare the extracts and the methanol extract was subsequently characterized based on its bio-activities on HaCaT human keratinocytes. The keratinocytes were pre-treated with the methanol extract followed by UV-irradiation. Cellular responses of the HaCaT cells such as cell viability, DNA damage, as well as gene and protein expressions that were responsive to the treatments, were characterized by using bio-assays, including reverse-transcription based PCR, Western blot, cell viability, and mitochondrial Cytochrome C release assays.

RESULTS

TM02-ME protected HaCaT cells from UV-induced DNA damage and cell death in a dose-dependent manner. Pre-treatment of HaCaT cells with TM02-ME led to a 39% reduction of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD) and up-regulated the gene expression of REV1 and SPINK5 in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells when compared to the control. In addition, TM-02-ME treated HaCaT cells increased the expression of BCL-XL and BCL-2 proteins which coincided with the down-regulation of mitochondrial Cyt. C release in the UV-B irradiated HaCaT cells. The results were further supported by data that showed the stable clones of HaCaT cells stably expressed BCL-XL were resistant to UVB-induced cell death.

CONCLUSIONS

^__The results showed that TM02-ME confers photoprotective activities to UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells, leading to a reduction in DNA damage and cell death as well as up-regulated the expression of REV1 and SPINK5 which are involved in DNA repair and skin barrier function, respectively. The up-regulation of pro-survival members of the BCL-2 family by TM02-ME confers protection against UVB-induced cell death.

Hydroxy-3-Phenylcoumarins as Multitarget Compounds for Skin Aging Diseases: Synthesis, Molecular Docking and Tyrosinase, Elastase, Collagenase and Hyaluronidase Inhibition, and Sun Protection Factor

Skin aging is a progressive biological process of the human body, and it is not only time-dependent. Differently substituted 3-phenylcoumarins proved to efficiently inhibit tyrosinase. In the current work, new substitution patterns have been explored, and the biological studies were extended to other important enzymes involved in the processes of skin aging, as elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. From the studied series, five compounds presented inhibitory activity against tyrosinase, one compound against elastase, eight compounds against collagenase and two compounds against hyaluronidase, being five compounds dual inhibitors. The 3-(4'-Bromophenyl)-5,7-dihydroxycoumarin (1) and 3-(3'-bromophenyl)-5,7-dihydroxycoumarin (2) presented the best profiles against tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 1.05 µM and 7.03 µM) and collagenase (IC₅₀ = 123.4 µM and 110.4 µM); the 3-(4'-bromophenyl)-6,7-dihydroxycoumarin (4) presented a good inhibition against tyrosinase and hyaluronidase; the 3-(3'-bromophenyl)-6,7-dihydroxycoumarin (5) showed an effective tyrosinase and elastase inhibition; and 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3'-hydroxyphenyl)coumarin (11) presented a dual profile inhibition against collagenase and hyaluronidase. Furthermore, considering the overall activities tested, compounds 1 and 2 proved to be the most promising anti-aging compounds. These compounds also showed to have a photo-protective effect, without being cytotoxic to human skin keratinocyte cells. To predict the binding site with the target enzymes, computational studies were also carried out.

Effect of hyperbaric oxygen treatment on skin elasticity in irradiated patients

BACKGROUND

Hyperbaric oxygen treatment (HBOT) is often used in an attempt to reverse/treat late radiation-induced tissue fibrosis (LRITF). This study aimed to quantify the effects on skin elasticity.

METHODS

Skin retraction time was used as a marker of skin elasticity in 13 irradiated breast cancer patients. The measurements were carried out on the affected side as well as the unaffected/healthy side at a mirrored location. Readings were taken at the start and end of HBOT (mean 43 sessions, 80 min at 243 kPa).

RESULTS

Patient age ranged from 39-70 years. All patients underwent surgical lumpectomy and radiotherapy prior to undergoing HBOT. The mean time between radiotherapy and HBOT was 70 months. Seven of the 13 patients underwent chemotherapy. Mean irradiated skin retraction time improved from 417 (SD 158) pre-HBOT to 171 (24) msec post-HBOT (P < 0.001). Mean pre-HBOT retraction time in the non-irradiated skin was 143 (20) msec and did not change.

CONCLUSIONS

This promising pilot study that suggests that HBOT may improve skin elasticity in patients with LRITF.

Phytochemical Screening, and In Vitro Evaluation of the Antioxidant and Dermocosmetic Activities of Four Moroccan Plants: Halimium antiatlanticum, Adenocarpus artemisiifolius, Pistacia lentiscus and Leonotis nepetifolia

In this study, four Moroccan plants, Halimium antiatlanticum, Adenocarpus artemisiifolius, Pistacia lentiscus and Leonotis nepetifolia, were evaluated for their phytoconstituents and biological activities. Methanolic extracts of these plants were obtained by Soxhlet apparatus, phytochemical screening was performed, and the total phenolic and flavonoid contents were determined. Then, the antioxidant and dermocosmetic activities of the methanolic extracts were evaluated. The obtained results revealed that the leaves and/or aerial parts contained tannins, polyphenols, flavonoids, coumarins, carotenoids, terpenoids and saponins. The higher total phenolic content values were recorded on Pistacia lentiscus and Halimium antiatlanticum with 396.64 ± 30.79 and 304.96 ± 55.61 mgGAE/gDW, respectively. The antioxidant activity was measured by DPPH, ABTS and FRAP assays, and showed that Pistacia lentiscus and Halimium antiatlanticum were the most active extracts, with, respectively, IC50 values of 3.705 ± 0.445 and 5.037 ± 0.122 µg/mL for DPPH. The same results were observed for the FRAP and ABTS assays. Those extracts also showed a strong collagenase inhibitory activity at 200 µg/mL, with 78.51 ± 2.27% for Pistacia lentiscus and 73.10 ± 8.52% for Halimium antiatlanticum. Adenocarpus artemisiifolius showed the highest elastase inhibition rate, with 76.30 ± 5.29%. This study disclosed the dermocosmetic potential of Halimium antiatlanticum and Adenocarpus artemisiifolius, two Moroccan endemic plants that can be traditionally used by local populations or exploited by the cosmetic industry.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies

Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential nutrient and has great potential as a cosmeceutical that protects the health and beauty of the skin. AA is expected to attenuate photoaging and the natural aging of the skin by reducing oxidative stress caused by external and internal factors and by promoting collagen gene expression and maturation. In this review, the biochemical basis of AA associated with collagen metabolism and clinical evidence of AA in increasing dermal collagen and inhibiting skin aging were discussed. In addition, we reviewed emerging strategies that have been developed to overcome the shortcomings of AA as a cosmeceutical and achieve maximum efficacy. Because extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, have unique amino acid compositions, their production in cells is influenced by the availability of specific amino acids. For example, glycine residues occupy 1/3 of amino acid residues in collagen protein, and the supply of glycine can be a limiting factor for collagen synthesis. Experiments showed that glycinamide was the most effective among the various amino acids and amidated amino acids in stimulating collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Thus, it is possible to synergistically improve collagen synthesis by combining AA analogs and amino acid analogs that act at different stages of the collagen production process. This combination therapy would be useful for skin antiaging that requires enhanced collagen production.

The Damaging Effects of Long UVA (UVA1) Rays: A Major Challenge to Preserve Skin Health and Integrity

Within solar ultraviolet (UV) light, the longest UVA1 wavelengths, with significant and relatively constant levels all year round and large penetration properties, produce effects in all cutaneous layers. Their effects, mediated by numerous endogenous chromophores, primarily involve the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The resulting oxidative stress is the major mode of action of UVA1, responsible for lipid peroxidation, protein carbonylation, DNA lesions and subsequent intracellular signaling cascades. These molecular changes lead to mutations, apoptosis, dermis remodeling, inflammatory reactions and abnormal immune responses. The altered biological functions contribute to clinical consequences such as hyperpigmentation, inflammation, photoimmunosuppression, sun allergies, photoaging and photocancers. Such harmful impacts have also been reported after the use of UVA1 phototherapy or tanning beds. Furthermore, other external aggressors, such as pollutants and visible light (Vis), were shown to induce independent, cumulative and synergistic effects with UVA1 rays. In this review, we synthetize the biological and clinical effects of UVA1 and the complementary effects of UVA1 with pollutants or Vis. The identified deleterious biological impact of UVA1 contributing to clinical consequences, combined with the predominance of UVA1 rays in solar UV radiation, constitute a solid rational for the need for a broad photoprotection, including UVA1 up to 400 nm.

Antioxidative Role of Hygrophila erecta (Brum. F.) Hochr. on UV-Induced Photoaging of Dermal Fibroblasts and Melanoma Cells

Antioxidants are an important strategy for treating photoaging because excessive reactive oxygen species (ROS) are produced during UV irradiation. The therapeutic effects of methanol extracts of Hygrophila erecta (Brum. F.) Hochr. (MEH) against UV-induced photoaging were examined by monitoring the changes in the antioxidant defense system, apoptosis, extracellular matrix (ECM) modulation, inflammatory response, and melanin synthesis in normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) cells and melanoma B16F1 cells. Four bioactive compounds, including 4-methoxycinnamic acid, 4-methoxybenzoic acid, methyl linoleate, and asterriquinone C-1, were detected in MEH, while the DPPH free radical scavenging activity was IC₅₀ = 7.6769 µg/mL. UV-induced an increase in the intracellular ROS generation, NO concentration, SOD activity and expression, and Nrf2 expression were prevented with the MEH treatment. Significant decreases in the number of apoptotic cells, the ratio of Bax/Bcl-2, and cleaved Cas-3/Cas-3 were observed in MEH-treated NHDF cells. The MEH treatment induced the significant prevention of ECM disruption and suppressed the COX-2-induced iNOS mediated pathway, expression of inflammatory cytokines, and inflammasome activation. Finally, the expression of the melanin synthesis-involved genes and tyrosinase activity decreased significantly in the α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH)-stimulated B16F1 cells after the MEH treatment. MEH may have an antioxidative role against UV-induced photoaging by suppressing ROS-induced cellular damage.

Labdanum Resin from Cistus ladanifer L.: A Natural and Sustainable Ingredient for Skin Care Cosmetics with Relevant Cosmeceutical Bioactivities

Labdanum resin from Cistus ladanifer L. (Cistaceae) is an abundant natural resource in the Iberian Peninsula worth being explored in a sustainable manner. It is already used in the cosmetic industry; mainly by the fragrances/perfumery sector. However, given the highest market share and traditional uses, labdanum resin also has the potential to be used and valued as a cosmetic ingredient for skincare. Aiming to evaluate this potential, labdanum methanolic absolute and fractions purified by column chromatography were characterized by UPLC-DAD-ESI-MS and then evaluated for UV-protection, antioxidant, anti-elastase, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities. Labdanum absolute represented ~70% of the resin; diterpenoid and flavonoid fractions represented ~75% and 15% of the absolute, respectively. Labdane-type diterpenoids and methylated flavonoids were the main compounds in labdanum absolute and in diterpenoid and flavonoid fractions, respectively. Labdanum absolute showed a spectrophotometric sun protection factor (SPF) near 5, which is mainly due to flavonoids, as the flavonoids’ SPF was 13. Low antioxidant activity was observed, with ABTS radical scavenging being the most significant (0.142 ± 0.017, 0.379 ± 0.039 and 0.010 ± 0.003 mgTE/mgExt, for the absolute and flavonoid and terpene fractions, respectively). Anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activity are reported here for the first time, by the inhibition of elastase activity (22% and 13%, by absolute and flavonoid extract at 1 mg/mL), and by the inhibition of nitric oxide production in LPS-induced RAW 264.7 cells (84% to 98%, at 15 µg/mL extracts, flavonoid fraction the most active), respectively. Antimicrobial activity, against relevant skin and cosmetic product microorganisms, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, and Escherichia coli, revealed that only S. aureus was susceptible to labdanum absolute (MIC: 1.2 mg/mL) and its fractions (MIC: <0.3 mg/mL). In conclusion, labdanum resin showed potential to be used in sunscreen cosmetics, anti-inflammatory skincare cosmeceuticals or medicines but has low potential as a cosmetic product preservative given the low antioxidant and low-spectrum antimicrobial activities.

Combination of Glycinamide and Ascorbic Acid Synergistically Promotes Collagen Production and Wound Healing in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

The purpose of this study is to present a novel strategy to enhance collagen production in cells. To identify amino acid analogs with excellent collagen production-enhancing effects, human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) were treated with 20 kinds of amidated amino acids and 20 kinds of free amino acids, individually at 1 mM. The results showed that glycinamide enhanced collagen production (secreted collagen level) most effectively. Glycine also enhanced collagen production to a lesser degree. However, other glycine derivatives, such as N-acetyl glycine, N-acetyl glycinamide, glycine methyl ester, glycine ethyl ester, and glycyl glycine, did not show such effects. Glycinamide increased type I and III collagen protein levels without affecting COL1A1 and COL3A1 mRNA levels, whereas transforming growth factor-β1 (TGF-β1, 10 ng mL−1) increased both mRNA and protein levels of collagens. Ascorbic acid (AA, 1 mM) increased COL1A1 and COL3A1 mRNA and collagen I protein levels. Unlike TGF-β1, AA and glycinamide did not increase the protein level of α-smooth muscle actin, a marker of differentiation of fibroblasts into myofibroblasts. The combination of AA and glycinamide synergistically enhanced collagen production and wound closure in HDFs to a level similar to that in cells treated with TGF-β1. AA derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl 3-phosphate (MAP), 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl 2-O-glucoside, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, enhanced collagen production, and the mRNA and protein levels of collagens at 1 mM, and their effects were further enhanced when co-treated with glycinamide. Among AA derivatives, MAP had a similar effect to AA in enhancing wound closure, and its effect was further enhanced by glycinamide. Other AA derivatives had different effects on wound closure. This study provides a new strategy to enhance cell collagen production and wound healing using glycinamide in combination with AA.

Phytocomplex of a Standardized Extract from Red Orange (Citrus sinensis L. Osbeck) against Photoaging

Excessive exposure to solar radiation is associated with several deleterious effects on human skin. These effects vary from the occasional simple sunburn to conditions resulting from chronic exposure such as skin aging and cancers. Secondary metabolites from the plant kingdom, including phenolic compounds, show relevant photoprotective activities. In this study, we evaluated the potential photoprotective activity of a phytocomplex derived from three varieties of red orange (Citrus sinensis (L.) Osbeck). We used an in vitro model of skin photoaging on two human cell lines, evaluating the protective effects of the phytocomplex in the pathways involved in the response to damage induced by UVA-B. The antioxidant capacity of the extract was determined at the same time as evaluating its influence on the cellular redox state (ROS levels and total thiol groups). In addition, the potential protective action against DNA damage induced by UVA-B and the effects on mRNA and protein expression of collagen, elastin, MMP1, and MMP9 were investigated, including some inflammatory markers (TNF-α, IL-6, and total and phospho NFkB) by ELISA. The obtained results highlight the capacity of the extract to protect cells both from oxidative stress—preserving RSH (p < 0.05) content and reducing ROS (p < 0.01) levels—and from UVA-B-induced DNA damage. Furthermore, the phytocomplex is able to counteract harmful effects through the significant downregulation of proinflammatory markers (p < 0.05) and MMPs (p < 0.05) and by promoting the remodeling of the extracellular matrix through collagen and elastin expression. This allows the conclusion that red orange extract, with its strong antioxidant and photoprotective properties, represents a safe and effective option to prevent photoaging caused by UVA-B exposure.

Oral supplementation of sea cucumber and its hydrolysate mitigates ultraviolet A-induced photoaging in hairless mice

BACKGROUND

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes skin photoaging, which is clinically characterized by dryness, laxity, and wrinkling. Sea cucumber (Stichopus japonicus) (SC) is a marine organism with culinary and medicinal applications, especially in Asian countries. It is also a potential nutraceutical as it exhibits bioactive effects, such as antioxidant, antitumor, and anticancer activity. This study examined the effects of SC and its hydrolysate (SCH) on ultraviolet A (UVA) induced skin barrier function and wrinkle formation using hairless mice.

RESULTS

Ultraviolet A significantly induced transepidermal water loss and wrinkle formation, which were significantly mitigated upon oral administration of SC and SCH. Sea cucumber also mitigated the UVA-induced downregulation of epidermal natural moisturizing factors and the upregulation of Aqp3, Mmp13, Tnfa, and Il6 mRNA levels in the mouse skin.

CONCLUSION

Taken together, these results suggest that dietary SC and SCH exert anti-photoaging effects by modulating filaggrin synthesis and desquamation in the epidermis and regulating the NF-κB pathway in the skin. Our research indicates that SC and SCH have potential applications in nutricosmetics for photoaging. © 2021 Society of Chemical Industry.

Combined Treatment of Monopolar and Bipolar Radiofrequency Increases Skin Elasticity by Decreasing the Accumulation of Advanced Glycated End Products in Aged Animal Skin

It is well known that skin aging is related to the destruction of collagen and elastin fibers by metalloproteinases (MMPs). Aged fibroblasts have a decreased ability to synthesize collagen and elastin. Nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (NRF2) involves glyoxalase (GLO) activation, which inhibits the production of advanced glycated end products (AGE) and the expression of its receptor (RAGE). RAGE increases nuclear transcription factor-kappa B (NF-κB), which upregulates MMPs and decreases skin elasticity. NRF2 also decreases M1 macrophages, which secrete tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), thereby decreasing AGE production. It is well known that radiofrequency (RF) decreases skin elasticity by increasing collagen synthesis. We evaluated whether RF increases skin elasticity via NRF2/GLO and whether they decrease AGE and RAGE expression in aged animal skin. We also compared the effects of RF based on the modes (monopolar or bipolar) or the combination used. In aged skin, NRF2, GLO-1, and M2 macrophage expression was decreased, and their expression increased when RF was applied. M1 and TNF-α demonstrated increased expression in the aged skin and decreased expression after RF application. AGE accumulation and RAGE, NF-κB, and MMP2/3/9 expression were increased in the aged skin, and they were decreased by RF. The papillary and reticular fibroblast markers showed decreased expression in young skin and increased expression in aged skin. The densities of collagen and elastin fiber in the aged skin were low, and they were increased by RF. In conclusion, RF leads to increased collagen and elastin fibers by increasing NRF2/GLO-1 and modulating M1/M2 polarization, which leads to decreased AGE and RAGE and, consequently, decreased NF-κB, which eventually slows collagen and elastin destruction. RF also leads to increased collagen and elastin fiber synthesis by increasing papillary and reticular fibroblast expression.

A Mixture of Topical Forms of Polydeoxyribonucleotide, Vitamin C, and Niacinamide Attenuated Skin Pigmentation and Increased Skin Elasticity by Modulating Nuclear Factor Erythroid 2-like 2

It is well-known that increased oxidative stress caused by ultraviolet B (UV-B) radiation induces melanogenesis and activates metalloproteinases (MMPs), which degrade collagen and elastin fibers, leading to decreased skin elasticity. Various antioxidant agents, such as vitamin C and niacinamide, have been evaluated for use as treatments for photoaging or skin pigmentation. In this study, we evaluated the ability of a topical liquid formula of polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), vitamin C, and niacinamide (PVN) delivered via a microneedling therapy system (MTS) to attenuate photoaging and pigmentation by increasing nuclear factor erythroid 2-like 2 (NRF2)/heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) and decreasing MMP expression in a UV-B-radiated animal model. The effects of the PVN were compared with those of individual PDRN and hydroquinone (HQ) compounds. The expression of NRF2/HO-1 significantly increased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN in UV-B-radiated animal skin. The activity of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate hydrogen oxidase decreased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN, and the superoxide dismutase activity increased. The expression of tumor protein p53 and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor and tyrosinase activity decreased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN, and this decrease was accompanied by decreased melanin content in the skin. The expression of nuclear factor kappa-light-chain enhancer of activated B cells and MMP2/3/9 decreased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN in UV-B-radiated skin. However, the expression of collagen type I α1 chain and the amount of collagen fibers that were evaluated by Masson's trichrome staining increased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN. The contents of elastin fibers, fibrillin 1/2 and fibulin 5 increased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN. In conclusion, PVN delivered via MTS led to decreased melanogenesis and destruction of collagen and elastin fibers by MMPs, and, thus, PVN decreased skin pigmentation and increased skin elasticity.

Molecular Docking, Tyrosinase, Collagenase, and Elastase Inhibition Activities of Argan By-Products

The argan tree (Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels) is one of the most important floristic resources in Morocco. This Moroccan endemic tree is known for its numerous therapeutic and medicinal uses. In addition to some medicinal and cosmetic uses, argan fruit pulp and press cake are traditionally used by the Berber population for heating and feeding livestock. Molecular docking is an in silico approach that predicts the interaction between a ligand and a protein. This approach is mainly used in chemistry and pharmacology of natural products as a prediction tool with the purpose of selecting plant extracts or fractions for in vitro tests. The aim of this research is to study the evaluation of potential tyrosinase, collagenase, and elastase inhibitory activities of argan fruit press-cake and pulp extracts. Extracts were evaluated for their total phenolic content (TPC), and the major polyphenols of both press-cake and pulp extracts were submitted to molecular docking in order to determine the mechanisms of action of these compounds. Obtained results revealed that fruit pulp had the strongest dermocosmetic activities, as well as the highest TPC, with values above 55 mg gallic-acid equivalent per gram of dry matter (mgeq AG/gDM). Moreover, those results were positively correlated with the docking findings, suggesting that the pulp lead compounds have higher affinity with tyrosinase, collagenase, and elastase action sites. The results here presented are very promising and open new perspectives for the exploitation of argan-tree by-products as cosmetic agents towards the development of new anti-aging products.

Tissue engineering strategies to bioengineer the ageing skin phenotype in vitro

Human skin ageing is a complex and heterogeneous process, which is influenced by genetically determined intrinsic factors and accelerated by cumulative exposure to extrinsic stressors. In the current world ageing demographic, there is a requirement for a bioengineered ageing skin model, to further the understanding of the intricate molecular mechanisms of skin ageing, and provide a distinct and biologically relevant platform for testing actives and formulations. There have been many recent advances in the development of skin models that recapitulate aspects of the ageing phenotype in vitro. This review encompasses the features of skin ageing, the molecular mechanisms that drive the ageing phenotype, and tissue engineering strategies that have been utilised to bioengineer ageing skin in vitro.

Pistacia lentiscus L. Distilled Leaves as a Potential Cosmeceutical Ingredient: Phytochemical Characterization, Transdermal Diffusion, and Anti-Elastase and Anti-Tyrosinase Activities

The present work was performed to investigate the phenolic composition of P. lentiscus L. distilled leaves (PDL) and examine its potential against certain key enzymes related to skin aging. High-pressure liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) and various separation procedures combined with nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and MS analysis were performed to isolate and identify compounds present in the ethyl acetate extract (EAE) of PDL. A high amount of flavonol glycoside was detected in EAE. Indeed, quercetin-3-O-rhamnoside (FC), myricetin-3-O-rhamnoside (FM2), and kaempferol-3-O-rhamnoside (FB2) were isolated from EAE, and are present in high quantities of 10.47 ± 0.26, 12.17 ± 0.74, and 4.53 ± 0.59 mg/g dry weight, respectively. A transdermal diffusion study was carried out to determine the EAE-molecules that may transmit the cutaneous barrier and showed that FM2 transmits the membrane barrier with a high amount followed by FC. EAE, FM2, and FC were tested against tyrosinase and elastase enzymes. Moreover, intracellular tyrosinase inhibition and cytotoxicity on skin melanoma cells (B16) were evaluated. The results indicated that EAE, FC, and FM2 have important inhibitory activities compared to the well-known standards, at non-cytotoxic concentrations. Therefore, they could be excellent agents for treating skin pigmentation and elasticity problems.

Protective Role of Melatonin and Its Metabolites in Skin Aging

The skin, being the largest organ in the human body, is exposed to the environment and suffers from both intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors. The skin aging process is characterized by several clinical features such as wrinkling, loss of elasticity, and rough-textured appearance. This complex process is accompanied with phenotypic and functional changes in cutaneous and immune cells, as well as structural and functional disturbances in extracellular matrix components such as collagens and elastin. Because skin health is considered one of the principal factors representing overall “well-being” and the perception of “health” in humans, several anti-aging strategies have recently been developed. Thus, while the fundamental mechanisms regarding skin aging are known, new substances should be considered for introduction into dermatological treatments. Herein, we describe melatonin and its metabolites as potential “aging neutralizers”. Melatonin, an evolutionarily ancient derivative of serotonin with hormonal properties, is the main neuroendocrine secretory product of the pineal gland. It regulates circadian rhythmicity and also exerts anti-oxidative, anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory, and anti-tumor capacities. The intention of this review is to summarize changes within skin aging, research advances on the molecular mechanisms leading to these changes, and the impact of the melatoninergic anti-oxidative system controlled by melatonin and its metabolites, targeting the prevention or reversal of skin aging.

Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor as an Immediate-Early Activator of Ultraviolet-Induced Skin Injury

The negative health consequences of acute ultraviolet (UV) exposure are evident, with reports of 30,000 emergency room visits annually to treat the effects of sunburn in the United States alone. The acute effects of sunburn include erythema, edema, severe pain, and chronic overexposure to UV radiation, leading to skin cancer. Whereas the pain associated with the acute effects of sunburn may be relieved by current interventions, existing post-sunburn treatments are not capable of reversing the cumulative and long-term pathological effects of UV exposure, an unmet clinical need. Here we show that activation of the vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) pathway is a direct and immediate consequence of acute UV exposure, and activation of VEGF signaling is necessary for initiating the acute pathological effects of sunburn. In UV-exposed human subjects, VEGF signaling is activated within hours. Topical delivery of VEGF pathway inhibitors, targeted against the ligand VEGF-A (gold nanoparticles conjugated with anti-VEGF antibodies) and small-molecule antagonists of VEGF receptor signaling, prevent the development of erythema and edema in UV-exposed mice. These findings collectively suggest targeting VEGF signaling may reduce the subsequent inflammation and pathology associated with UV-induced skin damage, revealing a new postexposure therapeutic window to potentially inhibit the known detrimental effects of UV on human skin. It is essential to emphasize that these preclinical studies must not be construed as suggesting in any way the use of VEGF inhibitors as a sunburn treatment in humans because warranted future clinical studies and appropriate agency approval are essential in that regard.

Phytochemical Analysis and Dermo-Cosmetic Evaluation of Cymbidium sp. (Orchidaceae) Cultivation By-Products

Cymbidium is one of the most popular genera in Orchidaceae family, commercialized either as loose flowers or as potted plants in floriculture worldwide. The non-marketable parts are typically discarded (e.g., unsuitable flowers, leaves, pseudobulbs, roots), generating an enormous quantity of unutilized biomass. The above by-products were studied through phytochemical analysis and investigated for their dermo-cosmetic potential. The initial antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, and anti-collagenase assays of the total extracts indicated that the pseudobulb and root ethyl acetate extracts were the most potent. Those extracts were then submitted to chromatographic separation leading to the isolation of 16 secondary metabolites (four phenanthrenes, three 1,4-phenanthrenquinones, three dibenzyls, two phenolic acid derivatives, two sterols, one dehydrodiconiferyl alcohol derivative, and one simple phenolic compound), including 6-hydroxy-5,7-dimethoxy-1,4-phenanthrenequinone (cymbisamoquinone), which was identified as a new natural product. In parallel, 48 metabolites were identified by UPLC-HRMS analysis of the extracts. The biological evaluation of the isolated compounds revealed that gigantol and tristin present important anti-tyrosinase activity, while bulbophyllanthrin, 3-hydroxy-2,4,7-trimethoxy-phenanthrene, marylaurencinol A, 5-hydroxy-2-methoxy-1,4-phenanthrenequinone, and ephemeranthroquinone B show dose-dependent anti-collagenase activity. In contrast to isolated metabolites, which may act selectively on specific enzymes, the initial total extracts exhibited inhibitory activity against tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase enzymes, thus showing better prospects for use in dermo-cosmetic formulations.

Structural and Functional Changes and Possible Molecular Mechanisms in Aged Skin

Skin aging is a complex process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Together, these factors affect the structure and function of the epidermis and dermis. Histologically, aging skin typically shows epidermal atrophy due to decreased cell numbers. The dermis of aged skin shows decreased numbers of mast cells and fibroblasts. Fibroblast senescence contributes to skin aging by secreting a senescence-associated secretory phenotype, which decreases proliferation by impairing the release of essential growth factors and enhancing degradation of the extracellular matrix through activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Several molecular mechanisms affect skin aging including telomere shortening, oxidative stress and MMP, cytokines, autophagic control, microRNAs, and the microbiome. Accumulating evidence on the molecular mechanisms of skin aging has provided clinicians with a wide range of therapeutic targets for treating aging skin.

Insight into Seasonal Change of Phytochemicals, Antioxidant, and Anti-Aging Activities of Root Bark of Paeonia suffruticosa (Cortex Moutan) Combined with Multivariate Statistical Analysis

Chemical compositions, antioxidants, and anti-aging activities of Cortex Moutan (CM), from different collection periods and different producing areas, were measured and compared in order to obtain excellent CM extracts. The bioactivities of CM extracts were examined by an in vitro antioxidant method and a UVB irradiated human dermal fibroblast (HDF) model. Phytochemical properties were obtained from ultra-fast liquid chromatography quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UFLC-Q-TOF-MS) prior to the multivariate statistical analysis. As for the results, the extracts of Heze CM (HZCM) and Luoyang CM (LYCM) collected in June had better in vitro antioxidant activities, significantly increased the activities of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), and reduced the content of malondialdehyde (MDA), compared to other CM extracts. HZCM and LYCM extracts could upregulate the relative expression of SOD and GSH-Px mRNA. The extract of HZCM collected in June could significantly repress the production of matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) and improve the production of procollagen type I (PCOL)-I in UVB irradiated HDF. In total, 50 compounds, including 17 monoterpenoids, 19 flavonoids, 13 phenols, and 1 amino acid were identified or tentatively identified in the CM extracts. Gallic acid, p-hydroxybenzoic acid, oxypaeoniflorin, paeoniflorin, 1,2,3,4,6-O-pentagalloyl glucose, and paeonol were predominant compounds in the CM extracts. Taken together, CM collected from April to September had better antioxidant and anti-aging effects for external usage.

Antiphotoaging properties of Zingiber montanum essential oil isolated by solvent-free microwave extraction against ultraviolet B-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts

Maintaining youthful skin from photoaging with natural products, including essential oils, is a vital strategy that has piqued the interest of researchers in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. This research aimed to investigate the protective properties of Zingiber montanum (J. Koenig) Link ex A. Dietr. essential oil against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin damage and photoaging in normal human dermal fibroblast (HDFn) cells. The essential oil was extracted from fresh plant rhizomes using solvent-free microwave extraction. Its antiphotoaging properties in HDFn cells were investigated using reactive oxygen species (ROS)-scavenging, wound healing, matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9) expression, procollagen synthesis, and elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory assays. The results showed that the test oil exhibited no significant toxicity in HDFn at concentrations up to 10 mg/mL, with cell viability exceeding 90%. Following UVB irradiation at 30 mJ/cm², Z. montanum oil demonstrated time and concentration-dependent ROS radical scavenging capabilities. In a cell migration assay, the essential oil demonstrated wound-healing properties. Z. montanum oil suppressed the expression of MMPs and enhanced the synthesis of type I procollagen at a concentration of 0.1-1 mg/mL. In addition, 0.1-1 mg/mL Z. montanum oil inhibited elastase activity in a concentration-dependent manner but did not affect tyrosinase activity. From these findings, the essential oil of Z. montanum could have potential applications in developing cosmeceutical products to prevent skin photoaging.

Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis on the Effects of Astaxanthin on Human Skin Ageing

Context: Astaxanthin (ASX), a xanthophyll carotenoid derived from microalgae Haematococcus pluvialis, mitigating skin photoaging and age-related skin diseases by its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects in animal studies. Objective: The aim was to systematically evaluate if ASX applications have anti-ageing effects in humans. Methods: A comprehensive search of PubMed, Scopus and Web of Science found a total of eleven studies. Nine randomised, controlled human studies assessed oral ASX effects and two open-label, prospective studies evaluated topical, oral-topical ASX effects on skin ageing. GetData Graph Digitizer was used to extract mean values and standard deviations of baseline and endpoint, and Cochrane Collaboration’s tool assessed RoB for all included studies. Review Manager 5.4 was used to conduct meta-analysis of RCTs; the results were reported as effect size ± 95% confidence interval. Results: Oral ASX supplementation significantly restored moisture content (SMD = 0.53; 95% CI = 0.05, 1.01; I² = 52%; p = 0.03) and improved elasticity (SMD = 0.77; 95% CI = 0.19, 1.35; I² = 75%; p = 0.009) but did not significantly decrease wrinkle depth (SMD = −0.26; 95% CI = −0.58, 0.06; I² = 0%; p = 0.11) compared to placebo. Open-label, prospective studies suggested slightly protective effects of topical and oral-topical ASX applications on skin ageing. Conclusions: Ingestion and/or topical usages of ASX may be effective in reducing skin ageing and have promising cosmetical potential, as it improves moisture content and elasticity and reduces wrinkles.

The Impact of Vitamin D on Skin Aging

The active metabolites of vitamin D₃ (D₃) and lumisterol (L₃) exert a variety of antiaging and photoprotective effects on the skin. These are achieved through immunomodulation and include anti-inflammatory actions, regulation of keratinocytes proliferation, and differentiation programs to build the epidermal barrier necessary for maintaining skin homeostasis. In addition, they induce antioxidative responses, inhibit DNA damage and induce DNA repair mechanisms to attenuate premature skin aging and cancerogenesis. The mechanism of action would involve interaction with multiple nuclear receptors including VDR, AhR, LXR, reverse agonism on RORα and -γ, and nongenomic actions through 1,25D₃-MARRS receptor and interaction with the nongenomic binding site of the VDR. Therefore, active forms of vitamin D₃ including its canonical (1,25(OH)₂D₃) and noncanonical (CYP11A1-intitated) D₃ derivatives as well as L₃ derivatives are promising agents for the prevention, attenuation, or treatment of premature skin aging. They could be administrated orally and/or topically. Other forms of parenteral application of vitamin D₃ precursor should be considered to avoid its predominant metabolism to 25(OH)D₃ that is not recognized by CYP11A1 enzyme. The efficacy of topically applied vitamin D₃ and L₃ derivatives needs further clinical evaluation in future trials.

Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation

Vitamin B3 (nicotinic acid, niacin) deficiency causes the systemic disease pellagra, which leads to dermatitis, diarrhea, dementia, and possibly death depending on its severity and duration. Vitamin B3 is used in the synthesis of the NAD+ family of coenzymes, contributing to cellular energy metabolism and defense systems. Although nicotinamide (niacinamide) is primarily used as a nutritional supplement for vitamin B3, its pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical uses have been extensively explored. In this review, we discuss the biological activities and cosmeceutical properties of nicotinamide in consideration of its metabolic pathways. Supplementation of nicotinamide restores cellular NAD+ pool and mitochondrial energetics, attenuates oxidative stress and inflammatory response, enhances extracellular matrix and skin barrier, and inhibits the pigmentation process in the skin. Topical treatment of nicotinamide, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, reduces the progression of skin aging and hyperpigmentation in clinical trials. Topically applied nicotinamide is well tolerated by the skin. Currently, there is no convincing evidence that nicotinamide has specific molecular targets for controlling skin aging and pigmentation. This substance is presumed to contribute to maintaining skin homeostasis by regulating the redox status of cells along with various metabolites produced from it. Thus, it is suggested that nicotinamide will be useful as a cosmeceutical ingredient to attenuate skin aging and hyperpigmentation, especially in the elderly or patients with reduced NAD+ pool in the skin due to internal or external stressors.

NMR and LC-MSn coupled with pharmacological network analysis for the assessment of phytochemical content and biopharmaceutical potential of Carapa procera extracts

The methanolic and water extracts of Carapa procera leaves and stem barks were screened for their phytochemical content using a multi-technique approach. The extracts were also assessed for their in vitro antioxidant capacity along with their anti-diabetic (α-amylase, α-glucosidase), anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase and anti-cholinesterase (AChE, BChE) activities. Furthermore, antibacterial and antifungal effects were determined against several bacterial and fungal strains. Data Integration Analysis for Biomarker discovery using Latent components (DIABLO) integrative analysis was conducted on collected data to determine the influence of extraction solvents and plant parts on phytochemical content, antioxidant properties and enzyme inhibitory properties of C. procera samples. Additionally, the major identified compounds were screened as modulators of multiple pathways involved in human diseases via Gene Ontology (GO) enrichment analysis. Results showed that methanolic stem bark extract exhibited the most potent ABTS scavenging, Cu²⁺ and Fe³⁺ reducing power, total antioxidant capacity and Fe²⁺ chelating power and displayed the highest total flavanol content. Methanolic extracts of leaves and stem barks were abounded with phenolics and had the greatest anti-AChE, anti-BChE, anti-tyrosinase and anti-elastase activities. A significant antifungal activity was observed, with the lowest minimum inhibitory concentration and minimum fungicidal values of 0.07 and 0.15 mg/mL, respectively. DIABLO integrative analysis suggested that the phytochemical content and biological activities varied significantly within the plant parts and were influenced by types of solvent used. GO enrichment analysis on the main bioactive compounds showed modulation of multiple pathways associated with cancer. Obtained results demonstrated that stem bark and leaves of C. procera can be considered as promising sources of bioactive molecules with high pharmacological values.

Current advances of Dendrobium officinale polysaccharides in dermatology: a literature review

Context

Dendrobium officinale Kimura et Migo (Orchidaceae) is a naturally occurring precious traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) originally used in treating yin-deficiency diseases. The main active substances of Dendrobium officinale are polysaccharides (DOP). Recent findings highlighted the potential of DOP as a promising natural material for medical use with a diversity of pharmaceutical effects.

Objective

In this review, we provide a systematic discussion of the current development and potential pharmacological effects of Dendrobium officinale polysaccharides in dermatology.

Methods

English and Chinese literature from 1987 to 2019 indexed in databases including PubMed, PubMed Central, Web of Science, ISI, Scopus and CNKI (Chinese) was used. Dendrobium officinale, Dendrobium officinale polysaccharides, phytochemistry, chemical constituents, biological activities, and pharmacological activities were used as the key words.

Results

Dendrobium officinale polysaccharides have been found to possess hair growth promoting, skin moisturising and antioxidant effects, which are highly valued by doctors and cosmetic engineers. We highlighted advances in moisturising and antioxidant properties from in vivo and in vitro studies. Dendrobium officinale polysaccharides exhibited strong antioxidant effects by decreasing free radicals, enhancing antioxidant system, inhibiting nuclear factor-kappa B and down-regulating inflammatory response.

Conclusions

Our review is a foundation to inspire further research to facilitate the application of Dendrobium officinale polysaccharides in dermatology and promote active research of the use of TCM in dermatology.

Rosa platyacantha Schrenk from Kazakhstan-Natural Source of Bioactive Compounds with Cosmetic Significance

Plants belonging to the Rosa genus are known for their high content of bioactive molecules and broad spectrum of healing and cosmetic activities. Rosa platyacantha Schrenk is a wild-type species abundant in the mountainous regions of Kazakhstan. The phytochemical composition as well as the bioactivity of R. platyacantha extracts have not been fully investigated to date. In this study, various parts of R. platyacantha plant, collected in Almaty region, Kazakhstan, were used to prepare five hydroalcoholic extracts (R1–R5). The extracts were compared for the content of phytochemicals and selected biological activities, which are important for the potential cosmetic application of R. platyacantha. Extract R3, prepared from flower buds, showed the most significant antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory potential, decreasing the monophenolase and diphenolase activities of tyrosinase. Extract R3 showed also collagenase inhibitory activity and cytotoxicity against human melanoma cells A375, being less cytotoxic for noncancerous skin keratinocytes HaCaT. Analysis of fractions E and F, obtained from R3 extracts, revealed that quercetin, kaempferol, rutin, and their derivatives are more likely responsible for the tyrosinase inhibitory properties of R. platyacantha extracts.