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Chen T, Chang H. Deciphering trends in replacing preservatives in cosmetics intended for infants and sensitive population. Sci Rep 2024; 14:19053. [PMID: 39153997 PMCID: PMC11330455 DOI: 10.1038/s41598-024-69624-9] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/22/2024] [Accepted: 08/07/2024] [Indexed: 08/19/2024] Open
Abstract
The present study aims to investigate the current trends in replacing conventional preservatives with multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties for preservation of cosmetics for infants or sensitive population, to decrease their potential for contact dermatitis. We first reviewed the labels of cosmetics purchased from the Chinese market for conventional preservatives and multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties, of which the actual contents were further quantified by chromatographic methods. We identified 7 traditional preservatives (phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid (salts), methylparaben, benzyl alcohol, sorbic acid (salts), propylparaben, and methylisothiazolinone), and 11 alternative ingredients with antimicrobial activities (ethylhexylglycerin, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, p-anisic acid, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, decylene glycol, caprylhydroxamic acid, and aminomethyl propanol) in descending order of prevalence. The contents of all identified preservatives and ingredients were either below regulatory limits or in the range that is generally regarded to be safe. Further challenge with microorganisms indicated irrespective of the composition of preservation systems, product preservation could be compromised under test conditions. We conclude that multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties in cosmetics have the potential to completely replace or significantly reduce the use of traditional preservatives while retaining comparative preservative efficacy. Future attentions may need to be shifted to the safety of those multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties.
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Affiliation(s)
- Tian Chen
- Division of Public Health Service and Safety Assessment, Shanghai Municipal Center for Disease Control and Prevention, 1380 West Zhongshan Rd, Shanghai, 200336, China
- NMPA Key Laboratory for Monitoring and Evaluation of Cosmetics, Shanghai Municipal Center for Disease Control and Prevention, Shanghai, 200336, China
- State Environmental Protection Key Laboratory of the Assessment of Effects of Emerging Pollutants On Environmental and Human Health, Shanghai Municipal Center for Disease Control and Prevention, Shanghai, 200336, China
- Department of Environmental Health, Shanghai Municipal Center for Disease Control and Prevention, Shanghai, 200336, China
| | - Huailong Chang
- R&D Center, Shanghai Jahwa United Co., Ltd., 527 Baoding Rd, Hongkou, Shanghai, 200082, China.
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2
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Gates D, Badruddoza AZM, Zahid MI, Yeoh T, Shah J, Walsh T, Nurunnabi M. Sustainable Alternatives to Petroleum-Derived Excipients in Pharmaceutical Oil-in-Water Creams. AAPS PharmSciTech 2024; 25:68. [PMID: 38538866 DOI: 10.1208/s12249-024-02784-z] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/15/2023] [Accepted: 03/06/2024] [Indexed: 04/24/2024] Open
Abstract
Recently, vast efforts towards sustainability have been made in the pharmaceutical industry. In conventional oil-in-water (O/W) cream formulations, various petroleum-based excipients, namely mineral oil and petrolatum, are commonly used. Natural or synthetic excipients, derived from vegetable sources, were explored as alternatives to petroleum-based excipients in prototype topical creams, with 1% (w/w) lidocaine. A conventional cream comprised of petroleum-derived excipients was compared to creams containing sustainable excipients in terms of key quality and performance attributes, physicochemical properties, and formulation performance. The petrolatum-based control formulation had the highest viscosity of 248.0 Pa·s, a melting point of 42.7°C, a low separation index at 25°C of 0.031, and an IVRT flux of 52.9 µg/cm2/h. Formulation SUS-4 was the least viscous formulation at 86.9 Pa·s, had the lowest melting point of 33.6°C, the highest separation index of 0.120, and the highest IVRT flux of 139.4 µg/cm2/h. Alternatively, SUS-5 had a higher viscosity of 131.3 Pa·s, a melting point of 43.6°C, a low separation index of 0.046, and the lowest IVRT flux of 25.2 µg/cm2/h. The cumulative drug permeation after 12 h from SUS-4, SUS-5, and the control were 126.2 µg/cm2, 113.8 µg/cm2, and 108.1 µg/cm2, respectively. The composition of the oil-in-water creams had influence on physicochemical properties and drug release; however, skin permeation was not impacted. Sustainable natural or synthetic excipients in topical cream formulations were found to be suitable alternatives to petroleum-based excipients with comparable key quality attributes and performance attributes and should be considered during formulation development.
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Affiliation(s)
- Dana Gates
- Drug Product Design, Worldwide Research, Development and Medical, Pfizer Inc., Groton, Connecticut, 06340, USA.
| | - Abu Zayed Md Badruddoza
- Drug Product Design, Worldwide Research, Development and Medical, Pfizer Inc., Groton, Connecticut, 06340, USA
| | - Md Ikhtiar Zahid
- Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, School of Pharmacy, The University of Texas at El Paso, 500 West University Ave, El Paso, Texas, 79902, USA
| | - Thean Yeoh
- Drug Product Design, Worldwide Research, Development and Medical, Pfizer Inc., Groton, Connecticut, 06340, USA
| | - Jaymin Shah
- Drug Product Design, Worldwide Research, Development and Medical, Pfizer Inc., Groton, Connecticut, 06340, USA
| | - Taylor Walsh
- Eurofins Lancaster Laboratories Professional Scientific Services, 2425 New Holland Pike, Lancaster, Pennsylvania, 17601, USA
| | - Md Nurunnabi
- Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, School of Pharmacy, The University of Texas at El Paso, 500 West University Ave, El Paso, Texas, 79902, USA
- Biomedical Engineering Program, College of Engineering, University of Texas at El Paso, El Paso, Texas, 79968, USA
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3
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Franco-Gil ME, Graça A, Martins A, Marto J, Ribeiro HM. Emollients in dermatological creams: Early evaluation for tailoring formulation and therapeutic performance. Int J Pharm 2024; 653:123825. [PMID: 38253270 DOI: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2024.123825] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/09/2023] [Revised: 12/26/2023] [Accepted: 01/19/2024] [Indexed: 01/24/2024]
Abstract
The targeted choice of the emollient of a cream determines its physicochemical properties and clinical effectiveness. This work researched the effects of emollient properties on the final characteristics and potential performance of oil-in-water dermatological creams. Seven emollients with different chemical characteristics and structures (alkane, triglyceride, ether, silicone, vegetable oils, and mineral oil) were tested in a model formulation. Early stability, pH, droplet size distribution, rheology, tackiness, adhesivity, spreadability, tribology, and release profile of a lipophilic substance model (in Franz cells, through a synthetic membrane, for six hours) were assessed. The creams had acid epicutaneous pH and a "shear-thinning" "solid-like" viscoelastic behavior. Among the seven emollients' properties, polarity, density, and viscosity were the most influential. Droplet parameters were the most impacted, pH and release were moderately affected, and the textural properties were lowly to moderately impacted. The emollient substitution in the model formulation affected the experimental parameters differently, allowing formulation optimization and tailoring its potential therapeutic performance regarding drug release, coadjutant effects, and dwell time on the skin. By looking at the creams' characteristics, it was possible to select the best-suited emollients for releasing a lipophilic drug, applying on painful skin, and formulation in wash-off products or leave-on protective barrier creams.
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Affiliation(s)
- M E Franco-Gil
- Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.UL), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Avenida Prof. Gama Pinto S/N, 1649-003 Lisboa, Portugal; Department of Pharmaceutics and Food Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Plaza Ramón y Cajal s/n, Ciudad Universitaria, 28040 Madrid, Spain; University Institute of Industrial Pharmacy (IUFI), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Plaza Ramón y Cajal s/n, Ciudad Universitaria, 28040 Madrid, Spain.
| | - A Graça
- Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.UL), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Avenida Prof. Gama Pinto S/N, 1649-003 Lisboa, Portugal.
| | - A Martins
- Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.UL), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Avenida Prof. Gama Pinto S/N, 1649-003 Lisboa, Portugal.
| | - J Marto
- Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.UL), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Avenida Prof. Gama Pinto S/N, 1649-003 Lisboa, Portugal.
| | - H M Ribeiro
- Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.UL), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Avenida Prof. Gama Pinto S/N, 1649-003 Lisboa, Portugal.
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4
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Graça A, Martins AM, Pinto P, Ribeiro HM, Marto J. Combining protection with skin health: In vivo studies of an innovative gelatin/tannic acid-based hydrogel patch to prevent PPE-related skin lesions. Int J Pharm 2024; 650:123731. [PMID: 38142013 DOI: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2023.123731] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/18/2023] [Accepted: 12/20/2023] [Indexed: 12/25/2023]
Abstract
The prolonged use of Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) can lead to skin problems due to persistent pressure, friction, and tension. This issue has prompted the exploration of solutions to protect the skin while maintaining the effectiveness of the PPE. This study aimed to evaluate the in vivo effectiveness of a gelatin/tannic acid-based hydrogel patch positioned beneath a mask to alleviate skin damage resulting from mask-wearing. To understand the pressure exerted by PPE, in vitro tests were conducted to measure the tensile strength of three types of facial masks. The FFP2 masks exhibited the highest tensile strength and were selected for subsequent in vivo biometric investigations. Biometric parameters were evaluated using the Flir E50bx® thermographic camera, Corneometer®, MoistureMap®, Sebumeter®, Tewameter®, and VISIA® systems. The results showed that when the hydrogel patch was used under the mask, there were no significant differences in facial skin temperature, sebum levels, or TEWL values (p > 0.05). However, a statistically significant increase in skin hydration and a decrease in frontal redness (p < 0.05) were observed. Consumer acceptance was assessed through sensory analysis questionnaires. In summary, the observed attenuation of physiological changes in the facial area and the positive consumer feedback suggest that this polymeric film-forming system is a simple yet effective solution to prevent PPE use-related skin issues.
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Affiliation(s)
- Angélica Graça
- Research Institute for Medicine (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Lisbon, Portugal
| | - Ana M Martins
- Research Institute for Medicine (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Lisbon, Portugal
| | - P Pinto
- Research Institute for Medicine (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Lisbon, Portugal; PhD Trials, Avenida Maria Helena Vieira da Silva, n° 24 A - 1750-182, Lisboa, Portugal
| | - Helena M Ribeiro
- Research Institute for Medicine (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Lisbon, Portugal
| | - Joana Marto
- Research Institute for Medicine (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Lisbon, Portugal.
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Baptista S, Baptista F, Freitas F. Development of Emulsions Containing L-Ascorbic Acid and α-Tocopherol Based on the Polysaccharide FucoPol: Stability Evaluation and Rheological and Texture Assessment. COSMETICS 2023. [DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10020056] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 03/30/2023] Open
Abstract
The main function of vitamin C, as an antioxidant, is to combat free radicals and prevent premature aging, smoothing wrinkles and expression lines. In addition, it acts directly on depigmentation and prevention of blemishes on the skin. In this study, natural oils (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated, adding L-ascorbic acid as an antioxidant. The optimized formulations were obtained with 8.0 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Olea europaea oil formulation (C1) with a ƞ value of 2.71 Pa.s (measured at shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 96% and with 15 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Prunus amygdalus dulcis formulation (C2) with a ƞ value of 5.15 Pa.s (at a shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 99%. The stability of the FucoPol-based formulations was investigated over 45 days at 4 °C, 20 °C, and 30 °C. The results showed that all formulations maintained the organoleptic characteristics, with pH variations (5.7–6.8 for C1, and 5.5–6.03 for C2) within the regulations for cosmetic products (4 ≤ pH ≤ 7). The accelerated stability tests proved the formulations’ stability at 4 °C with EI = 95% for C1 and EI = 100% for C2. The rheological assessment demonstrated that the formulation presents a shear-thinning and liquid-like behavior. Regarding textural parameters, formulations C1 and C2 displayed an increase in firmness and consistency with similar spreadability during the shelf life. These findings further demonstrate FucoPol’s functional properties, acting as an emulsifier and stabilizer polysaccharide in cosmetic formulations containing L-ascorbic acid.
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Baptista S, Pereira JR, Guerreiro BM, Baptista F, Silva JC, Freitas F. Cosmetic emulsion based on the fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol: Bioactive properties and sensorial evaluation. Colloids Surf B Biointerfaces 2023; 225:113252. [PMID: 36931042 DOI: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2023.113252] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/22/2022] [Revised: 02/15/2023] [Accepted: 03/04/2023] [Indexed: 03/08/2023]
Abstract
In this study, the physicochemical characteristics, bioactive properties, and sensorial evaluation of a O/W cosmetic formulation containing FucoPol, a fucose-containing bacterial polysaccharide, were assessed. The stability of the FucoPol-based cream, named F-cream, was demonstrated over a period of 2 months at different temperatures (4, 20 and 30 °C), during which it maintained the organoleptic characteristics and pH (5.88-6.19), with minimal variations on the apparent viscosity. Furthermore, no breaking mechanisms occurred upon centrifuging the samples (accelerated stability test) kept at 4 °C and at 30 °C for 60 days. The F-cream presented a shear-thinning and solid-liquid behavior consistent with its envisaged use for topical applications, proving to be a suitable candidate for an anti-aging application due to its antioxidant capacity and effective photoprotection, maintaining cellular preservation. Moreover, the formulation was proven non-cytotoxic for HaCaT cells at concentrations between 0.78 and 12.5 mg/mL, promoting HFFF2 cell migration (46-70 % of wound closure) at a concentration of 2.5 mg/mL, and HaCaT cell migration at a concentration of 10 mg/mL (95-98 % of wound closure). Upon application over the skin, the F-cream provided a hydration and softness with desired spreadability with no residues after application. These findings show that FucoPol has good potential to be used as a functional and/or active ingredient in cosmetic formulations, forming an emulsified cream with appealing sensorial properties that can act as a moisturizer with photoprotection, antioxidant, and regeneration properties.
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Affiliation(s)
- Sílvia Baptista
- Associate Laboratory i4HB - Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, Caparica, Portugal; UCIBIO - Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Department of Chemistry, School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, 2819-516 Caparica, Portugal; 73100, Lda. Edifício Arcis, Rua Ivone Silva, 6, 4º piso, 1050-124 Lisboa, Portugal
| | - João R Pereira
- Associate Laboratory i4HB - Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, Caparica, Portugal; UCIBIO - Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Department of Chemistry, School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, 2819-516 Caparica, Portugal; CENIMAT/I3N, Department of Physics, NOVA School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, 2819-516 Caparica, Portugal
| | - Bruno M Guerreiro
- Associate Laboratory i4HB - Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, Caparica, Portugal; UCIBIO - Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Department of Chemistry, School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, 2819-516 Caparica, Portugal; CENIMAT/I3N, Department of Physics, NOVA School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, 2819-516 Caparica, Portugal
| | - Filipa Baptista
- UCIBIO - Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Department of Chemistry, School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, 2819-516 Caparica, Portugal
| | - Jorge C Silva
- CENIMAT/I3N, Department of Physics, NOVA School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, 2819-516 Caparica, Portugal
| | - Filomena Freitas
- Associate Laboratory i4HB - Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, Caparica, Portugal; UCIBIO - Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Department of Chemistry, School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, 2819-516 Caparica, Portugal.
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7
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Exploring Olive Pomace for Skincare Applications: A Review. COSMETICS 2023. [DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10010035] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 02/18/2023] Open
Abstract
The cosmetic industry is continuously searching for new active ingredients in an effort to attend to consumer demands which, in recent years, are focused on more natural and environmentally friendly products, obtained from sustainable resources. Nevertheless, they are required to provide cosmetologically appealing skincare products, ultimately with the purpose of improving skin appearance. The olive oil industry generates a large amount of liquid and semi-solid by-products such as olive pomace. Their phytotoxicity impairs safe disposal, so valorization strategies that promote by-product reuse are needed, which may include skincare products. Hydroxytyrosol is the main phenolic compound present in olive pomace and possesses biological effects that make it a desirable active compound for cosmetic formulations such as antioxidant and anti-aging activities as well as photoprotector, depigmenting, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory actions. Other compounds present in olive pomace can also have functional properties and skin-related benefits. However, the application of this by-product can be a challenge in terms of formulation’s design, stability, and proven efficacy, so appropriate methodologies should be used to validate its incorporation and may include extraction and further encapsulation of bioactive compounds in order to achieve effective and aesthetic appealing skincare products.
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Vukašinović M, Savić S, Cekić N, Ilić T, Pantelić I, Savić SD. Efficient Development of Green Emulsifier/Emollient-Based Emulsion Vehicles: From RSM Optimal Experimental Design to Abridged In Vivo Assessment. Pharmaceutics 2023; 15:pharmaceutics15020486. [PMID: 36839806 PMCID: PMC9961351 DOI: 10.3390/pharmaceutics15020486] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/14/2022] [Revised: 01/19/2023] [Accepted: 01/28/2023] [Indexed: 02/05/2023] Open
Abstract
Since natural-origin, sustainable ingredients are preferred by modern consumers, novel emulsifiers and emollients keep entering the market. This study hypothesizes that a combination of in silico, instrumental tools and simplified sensory studies could be used to efficiently characterize emulsions in a shorter timeframe. A total of 22 rather simple o/w emulsions were prepared by a time/energy-saving emulsification process. A natural mixed emulsifier (Lauryl Glucoside/Myristyl Glucoside/Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate) and two emollients (both with INCI name C15-19 Alkane) were used. The performed D-optimal experimental design within the response surface method (RSM) significantly narrowed down the number of samples about to enter the stage of texture, friction and sensory studies to the samples comprising 30% of a respective Emogreen emollient and 2% or 3% of the emulsifier. The sample comprising 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L15 showed significantly higher firmness (42.12 mN) when compared to the one with 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L19 (33.62 mN), which was somewhat unexpected considering the emollients' inherent viscosity values (4.5 mPa·s for L15 and 9 mPa·s for L19). The sample with 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L19 managed to maintain the lowest friction, while the one with 3% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L19 released its full lubricating potential in the second part of the measurement (30-60 s). The obtained results revealed the strengths and weaknesses of each formulation, narrowing down their possible applications in the early development stage.
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Affiliation(s)
- Mila Vukašinović
- Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, University of Belgrade-Faculty of Pharmacy, Vojvode Stepe 450, 11221 Belgrade, Serbia
| | - Sanela Savić
- DCP Hemigal, R&D Sector, Tekstilna 97, 16000 Leskovac, Serbia
- Faculty of Technology, University of Niš, Bulevar Oslobodjenja 124, 16000 Leskovac, Serbia
| | - Nebojša Cekić
- DCP Hemigal, R&D Sector, Tekstilna 97, 16000 Leskovac, Serbia
- Faculty of Technology, University of Niš, Bulevar Oslobodjenja 124, 16000 Leskovac, Serbia
| | - Tanja Ilić
- Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, University of Belgrade-Faculty of Pharmacy, Vojvode Stepe 450, 11221 Belgrade, Serbia
| | - Ivana Pantelić
- Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, University of Belgrade-Faculty of Pharmacy, Vojvode Stepe 450, 11221 Belgrade, Serbia
- Correspondence: ; Tel.: +381-113951369
| | - Snežana D. Savić
- Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, University of Belgrade-Faculty of Pharmacy, Vojvode Stepe 450, 11221 Belgrade, Serbia
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Formulation of the Polysaccharide FucoPol into Novel Emulsified Creams with Improved Physicochemical Properties. MOLECULES (BASEL, SWITZERLAND) 2022; 27:molecules27227759. [PMID: 36431860 PMCID: PMC9695255 DOI: 10.3390/molecules27227759] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/03/2022] [Revised: 10/27/2022] [Accepted: 11/07/2022] [Indexed: 11/12/2022]
Abstract
Driven by the customers' growing awareness of environmental issues, the production of topical formulations based on sustainable ingredients is receiving widespread attention from researchers and the industry. Although numerous sustainable ingredients (natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived compounds) have been investigated, there is a lack of comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives. In this study, olive oil (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated envisaging their validation as cosmetic creams. After formula composition design by Response Surface Methodology (RSM), the optimized FucoPol-based emulsion was prepared with 1.5 wt.% FucoPol, 1.5 wt.% cetyl alcohol, and 3.0 wt.% glycerin. The resulting emulsions had an apparent viscosity of 8.72 Pa.s (measured at a shear rate 2.3 s-1) and droplet size and zeta potential values of 6.12 µm and -97.9 mV, respectively, which are within the values reported for cosmetic emulsified formulations. The optimized formulation displayed the desired criterium of a thin emulsion system, possessing the physicochemical properties and the stability comparable to those of commercially available products used in cosmeceutical applications.
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10
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Deacetylation and Desuccinylation of the Fucose-Rich Polysaccharide Fucopol: Impact on Biopolymer Physical and Chemical Properties. Molecules 2022; 27:molecules27217165. [DOI: 10.3390/molecules27217165] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/27/2022] [Revised: 10/17/2022] [Accepted: 10/18/2022] [Indexed: 11/05/2022] Open
Abstract
FucoPol is an acylated polysaccharide with demonstrated valuable functional properties that include a shear thinning fluid behaviour, a film-forming capacity, and an emulsion forming and stabilizing capacity. In this study, the different conditions (concentration, temperature, and time) for alkaline treatment were investigated to deacylate FucoPol. Complete deacetylation and desuccinylation was achieved with 0.02 M NaOH, at 60 °C for 15 min, with no significant impact on the biopolymer’s sugar composition, pyruvate content, and molecular mass distribution. FucoPol depyruvylation by acid hydrolysis was attempted, but it resulted in a very low polymer recovery. The effect of the ionic strength, pH, and temperature on the deacetylated/desuccinylated polysaccharide, d-FucoPol, was evaluated, as well as its emulsion and film-forming capacity. d-FucoPol aqueous solutions maintained the shear thinning behaviour characteristic of FucoPol, but the apparent viscosity decreased significantly. Moreover, contrary to FucoPol, whose solutions were not affected by the media’s ionic strength, the d-FucoPol solutions had a significantly higher apparent viscosity for a higher ionic strength. On the other hand, the d-FucoPol solutions were not affected by the pH in the range of 3.6–11.5, while FucoPol had a decreased viscosity for acidic pH values and for a pH above 10.5. Although d-FucoPol displayed an emulsification activity for olive oil similar to that of FucoPol (98 ± 0%) for an oil-to-water ratio of 2:3, the emulsions were less viscous. The d-FucoPol films were flexible, with a higher Young′s modulus (798 ± 152 MPa), a stress at the break (22.5 ± 2.5 MPa), and an elongation at the break (9.3 ± 0.7%) than FucoPol (458 ± 32 MPa, 15.5 ± 0.3 MPa and 8.1 ± 1.0%, respectively). Given these findings, d-FucoPol arises as a promising novel biopolymer, with distinctive properties that may render it useful for utilization as a suspending or emulsifier agent, and as a barrier in coatings and packaging films.
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11
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Smiljanic S, Messaraa C, Lafon-Kolb V, Hrapovic N, Amini N, Osterlund C, Visdal-Johnsen L. Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits. Int J Mol Sci 2022; 23:12507. [PMID: 36293365 PMCID: PMC9604162 DOI: 10.3390/ijms232012507] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/30/2022] [Revised: 10/13/2022] [Accepted: 10/17/2022] [Indexed: 11/26/2022] Open
Abstract
The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two candidates outperformed the rest: Betula alba (BA) and Empetrum nigrum (EN). Quantitative PCR analysis showed that BA and EN upregulated barrier genes, when used individually and in combination. Betula alba increased AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, something niacinamide was incapable of. Additionally, the skin barrier was strengthened, evidenced by inhibition of KLK5 and hyaluronidase and showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity through DPPH and COX2 inhibition, respectively. A first split-face clinical study was conducted using the combination of extracts versus placebo. There was a significantly better skin restructuring effect and corneocyte cohesion on the side treated with combined extracts. A second split-face clinical study assessed the combined extracts versus 3% niacinamide. Significant variations in skin hydration and TEWL were observed in favor of the extract treated side. In conclusion, we identified a natural alternative to niacinamide for improving skin barrier health, in Scandinavian plant extracts, which yield strong performance, but at a lower concentration.
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Affiliation(s)
- Sandra Smiljanic
- Oriflame Cosmetics, Swedish Research & Innovation Lab, Fleminggatan 14, 112 26 Stockholm, Sweden
| | - Cyril Messaraa
- Oriflame Cosmetics, R&D Ltd., Bray Business Park, Kilruddery, A98 Y6W0 Bray, Ireland
| | - Virginie Lafon-Kolb
- Oriflame Cosmetics, Swedish Research & Innovation Lab, Fleminggatan 14, 112 26 Stockholm, Sweden
| | - Nina Hrapovic
- Oriflame Cosmetics, Swedish Research & Innovation Lab, Fleminggatan 14, 112 26 Stockholm, Sweden
| | - Nahid Amini
- Oriflame Cosmetics, Swedish Research & Innovation Lab, Fleminggatan 14, 112 26 Stockholm, Sweden
| | - Christina Osterlund
- Oriflame Cosmetics, Swedish Research & Innovation Lab, Fleminggatan 14, 112 26 Stockholm, Sweden
| | - Lene Visdal-Johnsen
- Oriflame Cosmetics, Swedish Research & Innovation Lab, Fleminggatan 14, 112 26 Stockholm, Sweden
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Ziemlewska A, Wójciak M, Mroziak-Lal K, Zagórska-Dziok M, Bujak T, Nizioł-Łukaszewska Z, Szczepanek D, Sowa I. Assessment of Cosmetic Properties and Safety of Use of Model Washing Gels with Reishi, Maitake and Lion's Mane Extracts. Molecules 2022; 27:5090. [PMID: 36014338 PMCID: PMC9412612 DOI: 10.3390/molecules27165090] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/21/2022] [Revised: 08/05/2022] [Accepted: 08/05/2022] [Indexed: 11/25/2022] Open
Abstract
Natural cosmetics are becoming more and more popular every day. For this reason, this work investigates the properties of mushroom extracts, which are not as widely used in the cosmetics industry as plant ingredients. Water extracts of Grifolafrondosa (Maitake), Hericiumerinaceus (Lion's Mane) and Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi) were tested for their antioxidant properties, bioactive substances content, skin cell toxicity, ability to limit TEWL, effect on skin hydration and pH, and skin irritation. Our research showed that Maitake extract contained the highest amount of flavonoids and phenols, and also showed the most effective scavenging of DPPH and ABTS radicals as well as Chelation of Fe2+ and FRAP radicals, which were 39.84% and 82.12% in a concentration of 1000 µg/mL, respectively. All tested extracts did not increase the amount of ROS in fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The addition of mushroom extracts to washing gels reduced the irritating effect on skin, and reduced the intracellular production of free radicals, compared with the cosmetic base. Moreover, it was shown that the analyzedcosmetics had a positive effect on the pH and hydration of the skin, and reduced TEWL.
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Affiliation(s)
- Aleksandra Ziemlewska
- Department of Technology of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Products, Medical College, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow, Sucharskiego 2, 35-225 Rzeszow, Poland
| | - Magdalena Wójciak
- Department of Analytical Chemistry, Medical University of Lublin, AlejeRaclawickie 1, 20-059 Lublin, Poland
| | - Kamila Mroziak-Lal
- Department of Technology of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Products, Medical College, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow, Sucharskiego 2, 35-225 Rzeszow, Poland
| | - Martyna Zagórska-Dziok
- Department of Technology of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Products, Medical College, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow, Sucharskiego 2, 35-225 Rzeszow, Poland
| | - Tomasz Bujak
- Department of Technology of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Products, Medical College, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow, Sucharskiego 2, 35-225 Rzeszow, Poland
| | - Zofia Nizioł-Łukaszewska
- Department of Technology of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Products, Medical College, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow, Sucharskiego 2, 35-225 Rzeszow, Poland
| | - Dariusz Szczepanek
- Chair and Department of Neurosurgery and Paediatric Neurosurgery, Medical University of Lublin, 20-090 Lublin, Poland
| | - Ireneusz Sowa
- Department of Analytical Chemistry, Medical University of Lublin, AlejeRaclawickie 1, 20-059 Lublin, Poland
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Pinto JR, Monteiro E Silva SA, Holsback VDSS, Leonardi GR. Skin occlusive performance: sustainable alternatives for petrolatum in skincare formulations. J Cosmet Dermatol 2022; 21:4775-4780. [PMID: 35038372 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14782] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/03/2021] [Revised: 12/31/2021] [Accepted: 01/10/2022] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND The emollients are important ingredients used in skincare formulations that can act as moisturizing agents through their occlusive potential, preventing skin water loss. Consumer interest in natural and sustainable products has grown considerably in the last few years, requiring efforts from the cosmetic industry to design products with raw materials of natural, organic and sustainable origin. Thus, it is essential to improve the knowledge about the behavior of cosmetic raw materials that can be used as sustainable alternatives to synthetic ingredients. AIM This work aimed to evaluate the occlusive performance of different vegetable oils used as emollients in skincare cosmetics, through comparative analysis with petrolatum, a synthetic emollient with a high occlusive skin potential. METHOD The study included 80 healthy female adult volunteers. TEWL measurements were performed before and after 15 minutes, 2 and 6 hours of emollients application on the forearms of the research participants. All research participants provided written informed consent. RESULTS The results obtained showed that the vegetable oils were effective in providing an occlusive effect on the skin. When compared to the petrolatum, the vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course. CONCLUSION Vegetable oils can be used as a sustainable alternative to synthetic emollients and they are promising in replacing petrolatum in skincare formulations with respect to the occlusion effect of the skin. The vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect (15 minutes post-application) as the petrolatum, which is known to have increased occlusion properties. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.
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Deravi LF, Cox NC, Martin CA. Evaluation of biologically-inspired ammonium xanthommatin as a multi-functional cosmetic ingredient. JID INNOVATIONS 2021; 2:100081. [PMID: 35601056 PMCID: PMC9121326 DOI: 10.1016/j.xjidi.2021.100081] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/05/2021] [Revised: 10/13/2021] [Accepted: 10/18/2021] [Indexed: 11/17/2022] Open
Abstract
We describe the investigation of an organic natural product, ammonium xanthommatin (Xanthochrome), in a series of studies designed to not only assess its impact on endocrine receptor function in vitro but also interrogate its mutagenic potential using bacterial reverse mutation assays. As a multifunctional raw material, ammonium xanthommatin functions as an antioxidant with a broad absorption profile spanning the UV through the visible spectrum, making it an interesting target for cosmetic applications. In solution, ammonium xanthommatin contributes to <30% inhibition of hormonal activities, indicating that it is not an endocrine disruptor. Furthermore, the compound does not cause gene mutations in the bacterial strains used, indicating that it is nonmutagenic. Applications are also described, highlighting xanthommatin’s ability to boost the UVA and UVB absorptive properties of traditional chemical UV filters by >50% across all filters tested. In addition to these features, xanthommatin exhibited no phototoxic hazards in vitro when irradiated with UVA and visible light, demonstrating its utility as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient. Although these findings encourage the use of xanthommatin in cosmetics, they represent only the beginning of the complete in vitro and in vivo data package needed to support safety and efficacy claims for future applications in skin health.
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Affiliation(s)
- Leila F. Deravi
- Seaspire Skincare, Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA
- Department of Chemistry and Chemical Biology, College of Science, Northeastern University, Boston, Massachusetts, USA
| | | | - Camille A. Martin
- Seaspire Skincare, Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA
- Correspondence: Camille A. Martin, Seaspire Skincare, 501 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, Massachusetts 02139, USA.
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The Influence of Ripeness on the Phenolic Content, Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activities of Pumpkins ( Cucurbita moschata Duchesne). Molecules 2021; 26:molecules26123623. [PMID: 34199320 PMCID: PMC8231950 DOI: 10.3390/molecules26123623] [Citation(s) in RCA: 21] [Impact Index Per Article: 7.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/27/2021] [Revised: 06/08/2021] [Accepted: 06/09/2021] [Indexed: 11/25/2022] Open
Abstract
Cucurbita moschata Duchesne (Cucurbitaceae) is a plant food highly appreciated for the content of nutrients and bioactive compounds, including polyphenols and carotenoids, which contribute to its antioxidant and antimicrobial capacities. The purpose of this study was to identify phenolic acids and flavonoids of Cucurbita moschata Duchesne using high-performance liquid chromatography–diode array detection–electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC–DAD–ESI-MS) at different ripening stages (young, mature, ripened) and determine its antioxidant and antimicrobial activities. According to the results, phenolic acids and flavonoids were dependent on the maturity stage. The mature fruits contain the highest total phenolic and flavonoids contents (97.4 mg GAE. 100 g−1 and 28.6 mg QE. 100 g−1).A total of 33 compounds were identified. Syringic acid was the most abundant compound (37%), followed by cinnamic acid (12%) and protocatechuic acid (11%). Polyphenol extract of the mature fruits showed the highest antioxidant activity when measured by DPPH (0.065 μmol TE/g) and ABTS (0.074 μmol TE/g) assays. In the antimicrobial assay, the second stage of ripening had the highest antibacterial activity. Staphylococcus aureus was the most sensitive strain with an inhibition zone of 12 mm and a MIC of 0.75 mg L−1. The lowest inhibition zone was obtained with Salmonella typhimurium (5 mm), and the MIC value was 10 mg L−1.
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Bom S, Gouveia LF, Pinto P, Martins AM, Ribeiro HM, Marto J. A mathematical modeling strategy to predict the spreading behavior on skin of sustainable alternatives to personal care emollients. Colloids Surf B Biointerfaces 2021; 205:111865. [PMID: 34044331 DOI: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2021.111865] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/25/2020] [Revised: 05/14/2021] [Accepted: 05/16/2021] [Indexed: 10/21/2022]
Abstract
Spreadability is one of the most important physicochemical properties of cosmetic products, according to the consumer. Thus, it is fundamental to develop strategies with the aim to improve the knowledge and predict the behavior of alternatives to synthetic emollients. The main goal of this research article was to correlate different physicochemical attributes, namely spreading value, apparent viscosity, density, saponification value, iodine value, peroxide value, acid value and melting range, with the spreading behavior of sustainable alternatives for petrolatum and dimethicone. The sensitivity and adequacy of each parameter were statistically analyzed, and the models were built by forward selection. The two adjusted and optimized models include viscosity and density as parameters and, in the petrolatum case, the model further includes the melting range, which was also validated as a significant predictor. Furthermore, it was also possible to compare the data obtained with the consumer's perception of the spreading behavior of the studied raw materials. A strong correlation was observed, suggesting that these tools mirror the consumer opinion. The application of these mathematical models is a valuable tool to assist the entire replacement process, which usually is a time-consuming procedure.
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Affiliation(s)
- Sara Bom
- Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Universidade de Lisboa, 1649-003, Lisbon, Portugal; PhD Trials, Avenida Maria Helena Vieira da Silva, nº 24 A, 1750-182, Lisbon, Portugal.
| | - Luís Filipe Gouveia
- Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Universidade de Lisboa, 1649-003, Lisbon, Portugal.
| | - Pedro Pinto
- Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Universidade de Lisboa, 1649-003, Lisbon, Portugal; PhD Trials, Avenida Maria Helena Vieira da Silva, nº 24 A, 1750-182, Lisbon, Portugal.
| | - Ana Margarida Martins
- Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Universidade de Lisboa, 1649-003, Lisbon, Portugal.
| | - Helena Margarida Ribeiro
- Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Universidade de Lisboa, 1649-003, Lisbon, Portugal.
| | - Joana Marto
- Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Universidade de Lisboa, 1649-003, Lisbon, Portugal.
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