Identification of Mushroom and Murine Tyrosinase Inhibitors from Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Extract

Lepidium peruvianum as a Source of Compounds with Anticancer and Cosmetic Applications

Lepidium peruvianum-an edible herbaceous biennial plant distributed in the Andes-has been used for centuries as food and as a natural medicine in treating hormonal disorders, as an antidepressant, and as an anti-osteoporotic agent. The presented study aims to prove its beneficial cosmetic and chemopreventive properties by testing the antiradical, whitening, cytotoxic, and anticancer properties of differently colored phenotypes that were extracted using three solvents: methanol, water, and chloroform, with the help of the chemometric approach to provide evidence on the impact of single glucosinolanes (seven identified compounds in the HPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS analysis) on the biological activity of the total extracts. The tested extracts exhibited moderate antiradical activity, with the methanolic extract from yellow and grey maca phenotypes scavenging 49.9 ± 8.96% and 48.8% ± 0.44% of DPPH radical solution at a concentration of 1 mg/mL, respectively. Grey maca was the most active tyrosinase inhibitor, with 72.86 ± 3.42% of the enzyme activity calculated for the water extract and 75.66 ± 6.21% for the chloroform extract. The studies in cells showed no cytotoxicity towards the human keratinocyte line HaCaT in all studied extracts and a marked inhibition of cell viability towards the G361 melanoma cell line, which the presence of pent-4-enylglucosinolate, glucotropaeolin, and glucoalyssin in the samples could have caused. Given all biological activity tests combined, the three mentioned compounds were shown to be the most significant positive contributors to the results obtained, and the grey maca water extract was found to be the best source of the former compound among the tested samples.

Vaccinium Species-Unexplored Sources of Active Constituents for Cosmeceuticals

The genus Vaccinium is represented by shrubs growing in a temperate climate that have been used for ages as traditional remedies in the treatment of digestive problems, in diabetes, renal stones or as antiseptics due to the presence of polyphenols (anthocyanins, flavonoids and tannins) in their fruits and leaves. Recent studies confirm their marked potential in the treatment of skin disorders and as skin care cosmetics. The aim of this review is to present the role of Vaccinium spp. as cosmetic products, highlight their potential and prove the biological properties exerted by the extracts from different species that can be useful for the preparation of innovative cosmetics. In the manuscript both skin care and therapeutic applications of the representatives of this gender will be discussed that include the antioxidant, skin lightening, UV-protective, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and chemopreventive properties to shed new light on these underestimated plants.

Pulp or Peel? Comparative Analysis of the Phytochemical Content and Selected Cosmetic-Related Properties of Annona cherimola L., Diospyros kaki Thumb., Cydonia oblonga Mill. and Fortunella margarita Swingle Pulp and Peel Extracts

Fruit peels might be a valuable source of active ingredients for cosmetics, leading to more sustainable usage of plant by-products. The aim of the study was to evaluate the phytochemical content and selected biological properties of hydroglycolic extracts from peels and pulps of Annona cherimola, Diospyros kaki, Cydonia oblonga, and Fortunella margarita as potential cosmetic ingredients. Peel and pulp extracts were compared for their antiradical activity (using DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging assays), skin-lightening potential (tyrosinase inhibitory assay), sun protection factor (SPF), and cytotoxicity toward human fibroblast, keratinocyte, and melanoma cell lines. The total content of polyphenols and/or flavonoids was significantly higher in peel than in pulp extracts, and the composition of particular active compounds was also markedly different. The HPLC-MS fingerprinting revealed the presence of catechin, epicatechin and rutoside in the peel of D. kaki, whereas kaempferol glucoside and procyanidin A were present only in the pulp. In A. cherimola, catechin, epicatechin and rutoside were identified only in the peel of the fruit, whereas procyanidins were traced only in the pulp extracts. Quercetin and luteolinidin were found to be characteristic compounds of F. margarita peel extract. Naringenin and hesperidin were found only in the pulp of F. margarita. The most significant compositional variety between the peel and pulp extracts was observed for C. oblonga: Peel extracts contained a higher number of active components (e.g., vicenin-2, kaempferol rutinoside, or kaempferol galactoside) than pulp extract. The radical scavenging potential of peel extracts was higher than of the pulp extracts. D. kaki and F. margarita peel and pulp extracts inhibited mushroom and murine tyrosinases at comparable levels. The C. oblonga pulp extract was a more potent mushroom tyrosinase inhibitor than the peel extract. Peel extract of A. cherimola inhibited mushroom tyrosinase but activated the murine enzyme. F. margarita pulp and peel extracts showed the highest in vitro SPF. A. cherimola, D. kaki, and F. margarita extracts were not cytotoxic for fibroblasts and keratinocytes up to a concentration of 2% (v/v) and the peel extracts were cytotoxic for A375 melanoma cells. To summarize, peel extracts from all analyzed fruit showed comparable or better cosmetic-related properties than pulp extracts and might be considered multifunctional active ingredients of skin lightening, anti-aging, and protective cosmetics.

Searching for Natural Plants with Antimelanogenesis and Antityrosinase Properties for Cosmeceutical or Nutricosmetics Applications: A Systematic Review

Excessive UV radiation (UVR) exposure has been shown in studies to be a major risk factor for most melanomas, causing premature skin aging as well as immune system suppression due to the increased production of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and other reactive oxygen species (ROS) during the melanogenesis process. Although several compounds with antioxidant and antityrosinase activities are widely used in the cosmetic industry, like kojic acid, hydroquinone, ascorbic acid, and arbutin, their use has been limited due to their adverse effects on the skin and cytotoxic issues. Recently, attempts have been made to develop new natural skin-lightening products by using plant extracts that are less toxic and exhibit numerous biological properties with great market demand. In this study, information on the depigmentation effects of various natural plant species was gathered from the SCOPUS database according to the PRISMA guidelines. A total of 414 records were retrieved, and finally, 76 articles were included in the qualitative synthesis by fulfilling all the inclusion criteria. In this review, we discuss the extraction methods and biological assays of 75 highly potential plant species, including the olive, yuzu, longan, and lotus. We concluded that the use of natural plants as skin-whitening agents is highly effective as there is a significant correlation between the content of polyphenolic compounds, antimelanogenesis, antityrosinase, and antioxidant activities. However, it is worth noting that the use of extraction methods or types of solvents is very important in determining the biological activities of plants.

Phytochemical Profiling, Antioxidant and Tyrosinase Regulatory Activities of Extracts from Herb, Leaf and In Vitro Culture of Achillea millefolium (Yarrow)

Achillea millefolium L. is one of the most known medicinal plants with a broad spectrum of applications in the treatment of inflammation, pain, microbial infections and gastrointestinal disorders. In recent years, the extracts from A. millefolium have also been applied in cosmetics with cleansing, moisturizing, shooting, conditioning and skin-lightening properties. The growing demand for naturally derived active substances, worsening environmental pollution and excessive use of natural resources are causing increased interest in the development of alternative methods for the production of plant-based ingredients. In vitro plant cultures are an eco-friendly tool for continuous production of desired plant metabolites, with increasing applicability in cosmetics and dietary supplements. The purpose of the study was to compare phytochemical composition and antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory properties of aqueous and hydroethanolic extracts from A. millefolium obtained from field conditions (AmL and AmH extracts) and in vitro cultures (AmIV extracts). In vitro microshoot cultures of A. millefolium were obtained directly from seeds and harvested following 3 weeks of culture. Extracts prepared in water, 50% ethanol and 96% ethanol were compared for the total polyphenolic content, phytochemical content using the ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UHPLC-hr-qTOF/MS), antioxidant activity by DPPH scavenging assay and the influence on the activity of mushroom and murine tyrosinases. The phytochemical content of AmIV extracts was significantly different from AmL and AmH extracts. Most of the polyphenolic compounds identified in AmL and AmH extracts were present in AmIV extracts only in trace amounts and the major constituents presented in AmIV extracts were fatty acids. The total content of polyphenols in AmIV exceeded 0.25 mg GAE/g of dried extract, whereas AmL and AmH extracts contained from 0.46 ± 0.01 to 2.63 ± 0.11 mg GAE/g of dried extract, depending on the solvent used. The low content of polyphenols was most likely responsible for the low antioxidant activity of AmIV extracts (IC₅₀ values in DPPH scavenging assay >400 µg/mL) and the lack of tyrosinase inhibitory properties. AmIV extracts increased the activity of mushroom tyrosinase and tyrosinase present in B16F10 murine melanoma cells, whereas AmL and AmH extracts showed significant inhibitory potential. The presented data indicated that microshoot cultures of A. millefolium require further experimental research before they can be implemented as a valuable raw material for the cosmetics industry.

Cannabidiol and Minor Phytocannabinoids: A Preliminary Study to Assess Their Anti-Melanoma, Anti-Melanogenic, and Anti-Tyrosinase Properties

Currently, there is an increased interest from both scientists and consumers in the application of cannabis/hemp/phytocannabinoids in skin-related disorders. However, most previous investigations assessed the pharmacological properties of hemp extracts, cannabidiol (CBD), or tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), with very few studies focusing on minor phytocannabinoids from hemp. In this context, the current work explored the in vitro anti-melanoma, anti-melanogenic, and anti-tyrosinase effects of cannabidiol (CBD) and three minor phytocannabinoids, namely cannabigerol (CBG), cannabinol (CBN), and cannabichromene (CBC). Among the tested human malignant melanoma cells (A375, SH4, and G361), only A375 cells were highly susceptible to the 48 h treatment with the four phytocannabinoids (IC₅₀ values between 12.02 and 25.13 μg/mL). When melanogenesis was induced in murine melanoma B16F10 cells by α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (αMSH), CBD, CBG, and CBN significantly decreased the extracellular (29.76-45.14% of αMSH+ cells) and intracellular (60.59-67.87% of αMSH+ cells) melanin content at 5 μg/mL. Lastly, CBN (50-200 μg/mL) inhibited both mushroom and murine tyrosinase, whereas CBG (50-200 μg/mL) and CBC (100-200 μg/mL) down-regulated only the mushroom tyrosinase activity; in contrast, CBD was practically inactive. The current data show that tyrosinase inhibition might not be responsible for reducing the melanin biosynthesis in α-MSH-treated B16F10 cells. By evaluating for the first time the preliminary anti-melanoma, anti-melanogenic, and anti-tyrosinase properties of CBN and CBC and confirming similar effects for CBD and CBG, this study can expand the utilization of CBD and, in particular, of minor phytocannabinoids to novel cosmeceutical products for skin care.

Inhibitory Activities of Samples on Tyrosinases Were Affected by Enzyme Species and Sample Addition Methods

The inhibition of tyrosinase (TYR) activity is an effective measure to inhibit melanin synthesis. At present, there are many methods with discrepant details that study the TYR inhibitory activity of samples. Under the same experimental conditions, this paper systematically studies whether enzyme species and sample addition methods are the key factors that determine the TYR inhibitory activity of samples. TYRs extracted from B16F10 cells, apple and mushroom, called BTYR, ATYR and MTYR, respectively, were selected to implement this study. Results showed that TYR inhibitory activities of samples were obviously affected by the above two factors. It was necessary to select the appropriate enzyme according to the problems to be explained. It was speculated that indirectly inhibitory activity reflected the comprehensive effects of samples on TYR catalytic activity and intracellular TYR synthesis pathway, while directly inhibitory activity reflected the effects of samples on TYR catalytic activity. Additionally, kojic acid could be used as a positive control for both B16F10 cells and MTYR models. The TYR inhibitory activity of β-arbutin was complicated and fickle, while that of epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) was universal and stable, which is to say, EGCG always inhibited TYR activity in a dose-dependent manner. In conclusion, the TYR inhibitory activities of samples were affected by enzyme species and sample addition methods. Compared with the unstable β-arbutin, EGCG was more valuable for clinical research.

Chemical Characterization of Different Extracts of Justicia secunda Vahl and Determination of Their Anti-Oxidant, Anti-Enzymatic, Anti-Viral, and Cytotoxic Properties

Justicia secunda Vahl. is a traditional medicinal plant in tropical regions, including West Africa. The present study examined the chemical profiles and biological properties of J. secunda extracts obtained with different solvents (dichloromethane, ethyl acetate, methanolic and aqueous: macerated and infused). Chemical components were characterized by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS), and over 50 compounds were identified, including flavonoids, phenolic acids, and alkaloids. Antioxidant, enzyme inhibitory, cytotoxic, and antiviral properties were selected as biological properties. Total phenolic and flavonoid contents in methanol (58.07 mg gallic acid equivalent (GAE)/g and 13.07 mg rutin equivalent (RE)/g) and water (infused) (36.34 mg GAE/g and 8.52 mg RE/g) were higher than in other extracts. Consistent with the levels of total bioactive components, the methanol and water extracts exhibited stronger antioxidant abilities. However, the dichloromethane and ethyl acetate extracts were more active on α-amylase and α-glucosidase than other extracts. Aqueous extracts exerted selective anticancer properties toward human pharyngeal cancer cell lines, whereas the methanolic extract decreased the human herpesvirus type-1 (HHV-1) infectious titer by 2.16 log and the viral load by 1.21 log. Overall, J. secunda could be considered a multifunctional bioactive raw material in the preparation of potent applications to manage diseases related to oxidative stress, including cancer, diabetes, and Alzheimer's.

Synergistic Inhibiting Effect of Phytochemicals in Rheum palmatum on Tyrosinase Based on Metabolomics and Isobologram Analyses

Tyrosinase (TYR) plays a key role in the enzymatic reaction that is responsible for a range of unwanted discoloration effects, such as food browning and skin hyperpigmentation. TYR inhibitors could, therefore, be candidates for skin care products that aim to repair pigmentation problems. In this study, we used a metabolomics approach combined with the isobologram analysis to identify anti-TYR compounds within natural resources, and evaluate their possible synergism with each other. Rheum palmatum was determined to be a model plant for observing the effect, of which seven extracts with diverse phytochemicals were prepared by way of pressurized solvent extraction. Each Rheum palmatum extract (RPE) was profiled using nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy and its activity of tyrosinase inhibition was evaluated. According to the orthogonal partial least square analysis used to correlate phytochemicals in RPE with the corresponding activity, the goodness of fit of the model (R₂ = 0.838) and its predictive ability (Q₂ = 0.711) were high. Gallic acid and catechin were identified as the active compounds most relevant to the anti-TYR effect of RPE. Subsequently, the activity of gallic acid and catechin were evaluated individually, and when combined in various ratios by using isobologram analysis. The results showed that gallic acid and catechin in the molar ratios of 9:5 and 9:1 exhibited a synergistic inhibition on TYR, with a combination index lower than 0.77, suggesting that certain combinations of these compounds may prove effective for use in cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries.

Extracts from European Propolises as Potent Tyrosinase Inhibitors

Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in the melanogenesis pathway. Melanin, the product of this process, is the main pigment of the human skin and a major protection factor against harmful ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Increased melanin synthesis due to tyrosinase hyperactivity can cause hyperpigmentation disorders, which in consequence causes freckles, age spots, melasma, or postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Tyrosinase overproduction and hyperactivity are triggered by the ageing processes and skin inflammation as a result of oxidative stress. Therefore, the control of tyrosinase activity is the main goal of the prevention and treatment of pigmentation disorders. Natural products, especially propolis, according to their phytochemical profile abundant in polyphenols, is a very rich resource of new potential tyrosinase inhibitors. Therefore, this study focused on the assessment of the tyrosinase inhibitory potential of six extracts obtained from the European propolis samples of various origins. The results showed the potent inhibitory activity of all tested propolis extracts towards commercially available mushroom tyrosinase. The four most active propolis extracts showed inhibitory activity in the range of 86.66-93.25%. Apart from the evaluation of the tyrosinase inhibition, the performed research included UHPLC-DAD-MS/MS (ultra high performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detection and tandem mass spectrometry) phytochemical profiling as well as antioxidant activity assessment using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and the 2,2"-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfuric acid (ABTS) radical scavenging tests. Moreover, statistical analysis was used to correlate the tyrosinase inhibitory and antioxidant activities of propolis extracts with their phytochemical composition. To summarise, the results of our research showed that tested propolis extracts could be used for skin cosmeceutical and medical applications.

Multidirectional Characterization of Phytochemical Profile and Health-Promoting Effects of Ziziphora bungeana Juz. Extracts

Ziziphora species (Lamiaceae) have been used in traditional medicine as sedatives, antiseptics, carminatives, or expectorants. Despite their common applications in phytotherapy, there is still lack of evidence about the composition of their extracts and its impact on biological properties of the plants. The aim of this study was to evaluate the content of Ziziphora bungeana, a less studied species growing in Kazakhstan, using HPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS instrumentation and to determine its antimicrobial, antioxidant, and cytotoxic activity together with inhibitory properties against tyrosinase and toxicity in erythrocyte lysis assay. Extracts from Z. bungeana were found to be sources of flavonoids, phenolic acids, organic acids, and terpenes that determined their antiradical activity. The minimum inhibitory concentrations of extracts were lower for Gram-positive bacteria (1.25-10 mg/mL) than for Gram-negative bacteria and fungi (5-20 mg/mL). The EC₅₀ value calculated for antiradical activity ranged between 15.00 ± 1.06 µg/mL and 13.21 ± 3.24 µg/mL for ABTS and DPPH assays, respectively. Z. bungeana extracts were found to decrease the activity of tyrosinase by 50% (at 200 µg/mL) similarly to kojic acid and were slightly cytotoxic for human melanoma A375 cell line (at 200 µg/mL) with no effect on HaCaT keratinocytes. In the end, Z. bungeana did not reveal toxic effects in hemolytic assay as compared to the positive control Triton X-100. The performed tests show potential application of the plant in the treatment of infectious diseases, disorders caused by free radicals, and skin problems.

Assessment of Cucurbita spp. Peel Extracts as Potential Sources of Active Substances for Skin Care and Dermatology

By-products of cultivated plants are one of the major environmental concerns worldwide. Due to the high concentration of bioactive chemicals, such waste may be considered hazardous due to the interference with the plant growth, deterioration of the drinking water quality or toxic effects on sensitive marine organisms. Moreover, plant-derived by-products, with proper handling, may represent a low-cost source of bioactive compounds potentially important for pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. The aim of the study was to evaluate the phytochemical composition, antioxidant activity, the influence of tyrosinase activity, in vitro sun protecting factor and cytotoxicity of 15 extracts from peels of five cultivars of Cucurbita maxima and C. moschata. The extracts were prepared using “green solvents” (water, 50% propylene glycol, and 20% ethanol) and ultrasound-assisted extraction. The performed analysis showed that the peel extracts from various cultivars differ significantly in respect to the phytochemical content and activity. The type of solvent also had a significant impact on the extract’s composition and bioactivity. Aqueous peel extracts contained the highest amounts of flavonoids, showed the greatest antioxidant potential and the most significant in vitro SPF values. In vitro studies showed that the analyzed peel extracts are not cytotoxic for human keratinocytes up to the concentration of 1000 µg/mL and thus might be considered as non-irritant for the skin. The study confirms the potential application of peel extracts from Cucurbita spp. cultivars in cosmetic products.

Cosmeceutical Potential of Extracts Derived from Fishery Industry Residues: Sardine Wastes and Codfish Frames

The fishery industry generates large amounts of waste (20–75% (w/w) of the total caught fish weight). The recovery of bioactive compounds from residues and their incorporation in cosmetics represents a promising market opportunity and may contribute to a sustainable valorisation of the sector. In this work, protein-rich extracts obtained by high-pressure technologies (supercritical CO₂ and subcritical water) from sardine (Sardina pilchardus) waste and codfish (Gadus morhua) frames were characterized regarding their cosmeceutical potential. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial activities were evaluated through chemical (ORAC assay), enzymatic (inhibition of elastase and tyrosinase), antimicrobial susceptibility (Klebsiella pneumoniae, Staphylococcus aureus and Cutibacterium acnes) and cell-based (in keratinocytes-HaCaT) assays. Sardine extracts presented the highest antibacterial activity, and the extract obtained using higher extraction temperatures (250 °C) and without the defatting step demonstrated the lowest minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) values (1.17; 4.6; 0.59 mg/mL for K. pneumoniae, S. aureus and C. acnes, respectively). Codfish samples extracted at lower temperatures (90 °C) were the most effective anti-inflammatory agents (a concentration of 0.75 mg/mL reduced IL-8 and IL-6 levels by 58% and 47%, respectively, relative to the positive control). Threonine, valine, leucine, arginine and total protein content in the extracts were highlighted to present a high correlation with the reported bioactivities (R² ≥ 0.7). These results support the potential application of extracts obtained from fishery industry wastes in cosmeceutical products with bioactive activities.

Traditional processing increases biological activities of Dendrobium offificinale Kimura et. Migo in Southeast Yunnan, China

The orchid Dendrobium officinale grows throughout southeast China and southeast Asian countries and is used to treat inflammation and diabetes in traditional Chinese medicine. Tie pi feng dou is a well-known traditional Chinese medicine made from the dried D. officinale stems. Processing alters the physicochemical properties of TPFD; however, it is unclear how processing affects the quality and medicinal value of this plant. Here, we analyzed and compared the chemical composition of fresh stems of D. officinale and TPFD and explored possible explanations for the enhanced medicinal efficacy of processed D. officinale stems using qualitative and quantitative methods. To identify the components of FSD and TPFD, we used ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography combined with mass spectrometry in negative and positive ion modes and interpreted the data using the Human Metabolome Database and multivariate statistical analysis. We detected 23,709 peaks and identified 2352 metabolites; 370 of these metabolites were differentially abundant between FSD and TPFD (245 more abundant in TPFD than in FSD, and 125 less abundant), including organooxygen compounds, prenol lipids, flavonoids, carboxylic acids and their derivatives, and fatty acyls. Of these, 43 chemical markers clearly distinguished between FSD and TPFD samples, as confirmed using orthogonal partial least squares discriminant analysis. A pharmacological activity analysis showed that, compared with FSD, TPFD had significantly higher levels of some metabolites with anti-inflammatory activity, consistent with its use to treat inflammation. In addition to revealing the basis of the medicinal efficacy of TPFD, this study supports the benefits of the traditional usage of D. officinale.

Structure and inhibition mechanism of some synthetic compounds and phenolic derivatives as tyrosinase inhibitors: review and new insight

Safety concerns are the primary consideration to identify and detection of enzyme inhibitors. In this regard, safe and potent tyrosinase inhibitors play important role in enhancing nutritional quality, health promotion and also prevent further damages. The present review focuses on the recent and efficient tyrosinase inhibitors discovered from both synthetic sources and synthesized phenolic compounds, including flavonoid, carvacrol, thymol, cinnamic acid and resorcinol derivatives. The inhibitory activity of these compounds was analyzed according to chemical structure, IC₅₀, K_i and their binding energy. Further, inhibition mechanism and the biological effects of some these inhibitors with potential application in food, agricultural, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries were briefly discussed. Molecular docking procedure was performed on some derivatives and demonstrated favorable binding affinity with amino acid residues of mushroom tyrosinase (PDB ID: 2Y9X). The information offered showed that the substitution pattern of hydroxyl groups at the phenyl ring is an important factor of tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The results confirmed that understanding structural modification of inhibitors is a key role in finding novel and efficacious tyrosinase inhibitors.Communicated by Ramaswamy H. Sarma.

Skin-Whitening and Antiwrinkle Proprieties of Maackia amurensis Methanolic Extract Lead Compounds

(1) Background: This study aimed to investigate the feasibility of using Maackia amurensis branch extract as a cosmetic ingredient with skin-whitening and antiwrinkle effects. (2) Methods: The skin-whitening effect of M. amurensis branch extract was confirmed by investigating α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin synthesis and melanogenic protein expression in B16F1 cells. The antiwrinkle effect of M. amurensis branch extract was verified by assessing matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression and soluble collagen content in CCD-986sk cells. The major compounds in M. amurensis branch extract were identified through isolation and characterization and confirmed by high-performance liquid chromatography analysis. (3) Results: M. amurensis branch extract significantly inhibited α-MSH-induced melanin synthesis by 49%, 42%, and 18% at 50, 37.5, and 25 μg/mL concentrations, respectively, compared with the negative control (NC). M. amurensis branch extract also significantly reduced the expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, TRP-2, and tyrosinase in B16F1 cells. Furthermore, M. amurensis branch extracts decreased ultraviolet A-induced MMP-1 expression and increased soluble collagen synthesis in CCD-986sk cells. In addition, the major compounds present in M. amurensis branch extract were found to be formononetin, genistein, trans-resveratrol, piceatannol, and tectoridin. (4) Conclusions: M. amurensis branch extract has skin-whitening and antiwrinkle properties. Therefore, it can be used as an ingredient in functional cosmetics with skin-whitening and antiwrinkle effects.

Distribution of Phenolic Compounds and Antioxidant Activity in Plant Parts and Populations of Seven Underutilized Wild Achillea Species

Evaluation of phytochemical composition of underutilized Achillea species provides the primary selection of germplasms with the desired quality of raw material for their further applications. The aim of the study was to evaluate the comprehensive distribution patterns of phenolic compounds in seven wild Achillea spp. and their plant parts, and to assess their antioxidant activity. Plant material was collected from different sites in Turkey. A complex of hydroxycinnamic acids, flavonols and flavones was identified and quantified in methanolic extracts using HPLC-PDA method. Antioxidant activity was assessed by radical scavenging assay. The results showed that qualitative and qualitative profiles of caffeoylquinic acids and flavonoids were species-specific, explaining the characteristic patterns of their variation in the corresponding species and plant parts. The highest total amount of caffeoylquinic acids was detected in A. setacea. A. arabica exposed the highest accumulation of mono-caffeoylquinic acids and flavonoids with the greatest levels of quercetin and luteolin derivatives and the flavonol santin. Santin was detected in all plant parts of A. cappadocica, A. setacea, A. santolinoides subsp. wilhelmsii, and A. arabica. A notable antiradical capacity was confirmed in A. arabica, A. setacea and A. cappadocica plant extracts. The leaves of all studied species were found to have priority over inflorescences and stems in terms of radical scavenging activity. The new data complemented the information that may be relevant for the continuation of chemophenetic studies in the heterogeneous genus Achillea.

Insights into the Phytochemical and Multifunctional Biological Profile of Spices from the Genus Piper

Piper spices represent an inexhaustible reservoir of bioactive compounds that may act as drug leads in natural product research. The aim of this study was to investigate a series of methanolic fruit extracts obtained from P. nigrum (black, green, white and red), P. longum and P. retrofractum in comparative phytochemical and multi-directional biological (antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-enzymatic and anti-melanogenic) assays. The metabolite profiling revealed the presence of 17 piperamides, with a total content of 247.75-591.42 mg piperine equivalents/g. Among the 22 tested microorganism strains, Piper spices were significantly active (MIC < 0.1 mg/mL) against the anaerobes Actinomyces israelii and Fusobacterium nucleatum. The antioxidant and anti-enzymatic activities were evidenced in DPPH (10.64-82.44 mg TE/g) and ABTS (14.20-77.60 mg TE/g) radical scavenging, CUPRAC (39.94-140.52 mg TE/g), FRAP (16.05-77.00 mg TE/g), chelating (0-34.80 mg EDTAE/g), anti-acetylcholinesterase (0-2.27 mg GALAE/g), anti-butyrylcholinesterase (0.60-3.11 mg GALAE/g), anti-amylase (0.62-1.11 mmol ACAE/g) and anti-glucosidase (0-1.22 mmol ACAE/g) assays. Several Piper extracts (10 μg/mL) inhibited both melanin synthesis (to 32.05-60.65% of αMSH+ cells) and release (38.06-45.78% of αMSH+ cells) in αMSH-stimulated B16F10 cells, partly explained by their tyrosinase inhibitory properties. Our study uncovers differences between Piper spices and sheds light on their potential use as nutraceuticals or cosmeceuticals for the management of different diseases linked to bacterial infections, Alzheimer's dementia, type 2 diabetes mellitus or hyperpigmentation.

The Phenolic Compounds Profile and Cosmeceutical Significance of Two Kazakh Species of Onions: Alliumgalanthum and A. turkestanicum

Numerous species of Allium genus have been used in the traditional medicine based on their vast biological effects, e.g., antimicrobial, digestion stimulant, anti-sclerotic, soothing, antiradical or wound healing properties. In this work, unpolar and polar extracts from two lesser-investigated species of Allium growing in Kazakhstan, Alliumgalanthum Kar. & Kir. (AG) and A. turkestanicum Regel. (AT), were studied for their composition and biological effects. In the HPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS analyses of water and alcoholic extracts simple organic acids, flavonoids and their glycosides were found to be the best represented group of secondary metabolites. On the other hand, in the GC-MS analysis diethyl ether, extracts were found to be rich sources of straight-chain hydrocarbons and their alcohols, fatty acids and sterols. The antimicrobial activity assessment showed a lower activity of polar extracts, however, the diethyl ether extract from AT bulbs and AG chives showed the strongest activity against Bacillus subtilis ATCC 6633, B. cereus ATCC 10876, some species of Staphylococcus (S. aureus ATCC 25923 and S. epidermidis ATCC 12228) and all tested Candida species (Candida albicans ATCC 2091, Candida albicans ATCC 10231, Candida glabrata ATCC 90030, Candida krusei ATCC 14243 and Candida parapsilosis ATCC 22019) with a minimum inhibitory concentration of 0.125–0.5 mg/mL. The highest antiradical capacity exhibited diethyl ether extracts from AG bulbs (IC50 = 19274.78 ± 92.11 mg Trolox eq/g of dried extract) in DPPH assay. In ABTS scavenging assay, the highest value of mg Trolox equivalents, 50.85 ± 2.90 was calculated for diethyl ether extract from AT bulbs. The same extract showed the highest inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase (82.65 ± 1.28% of enzyme activity), whereas AG bulb ether extract was the most efficient murine tyrosinase inhibitor (54% of the enzyme activity). The performed tests confirm possible cosmeceutical applications of these plants.

Euphorbia characias: Phytochemistry and Biological Activities

The aim of this review is to summarize all the compounds identified and characterized from Euphorbia characias, along with the biological activities reported for this plant. Euphorbia is one of the greatest genera in the spurge family of Euphorbiaceae and includes different kinds of plants characterized by the presence of milky latex. Among them, the species Euphorbia characias L. is an evergreen perennial shrub widely distributed in Mediterranean countries. E. characias latex and extracts from different parts of the plant have been extensively studied, leading to the identification of several chemical components such as terpenoids, sterol hydrocarbons, saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, cerebrosides and phenolic and carboxylic acids. The biological properties range between antioxidant activities, antimicrobial, antiviral and pesticidal activities, wound-healing properties, anti-aging and hypoglycemic properties and inhibitory activities toward target enzymes related to different diseases, such as cholinesterases and xanthine oxidase. The information available in this review allows us to consider the plant E. characias as a potential source of compounds for biomedical research.

Novel Quercetin Derivative of 3,7-Dioleylquercetin Shows Less Toxicity and Highly Potent Tyrosinase Inhibition Activity

Quercetin is a well-known plant flavonol and antioxidant; however, there has been some debate regarding the efficacy and safety of native quercetin as a skin-whitening agent via tyrosinase inhibition. Several researchers have synthesized quercetin derivatives as low-toxicity antioxidants and whitening agents. However, no suitable quercetin derivatives have been reported to date. In this study, a novel quercetin derivative was synthesized by the S_N2 reaction using quercetin and oleyl bromide. The relationship between the structures and activities of quercetin derivatives as anti-melanogenic agents was assessed using in vitro enzyme kinetics, molecular docking, and quenching studies; cell line experiments; and in vivo zebrafish model studies. Novel 3,7-dioleylquercetin (OQ) exhibited a low cytotoxic concentration level at >100 µg/mL (125 µM), which is five times less toxic than native quercetin. The inhibition mechanism showed that OQ is a competitive inhibitor, similar to native quercetin. Expression of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1) and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2), and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor was inhibited in B16F10 melanoma cell lines. mRNA transcription levels of tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 decreased in a dose-dependent manner. Melanin formation was confirmed in the zebrafish model using quercetin derivatives. Therefore, OQ might be a valuable asset for the development of novel skin-whitening agents.