Sustainability in Skin Care: Incorporation of Avocado Peel Extracts in Topical Formulations

Exploring antioxidant potential of agricultural by-products: a systematic review

Background

Agricultural waste sourced from various activities that occur along the agricultural supply chain including post-harvest, processing, and consumption processes, can pose a threat to ecosystem balance and community welfare. Data shows that agricultural by-products have the potential to be utilized because they contain antioxidant compounds. This systematic review study aims to identify and assess the antioxidant activity of agricultural by-products through various extraction methods.

Methods

This systematic review collected literature in the last 10 years (2013-2023) from Google Scholar, Semantic, and Scopus-indexed articles with the help of Publish or Perish. Using the help of boolean operators (AND) and (OR) in searching using keywords. The steps applied adapt the PRISMA method (Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses), including identification, screening, eligibility, and inclusion.

Results

Literature collection data shows that the dominant processing method used is the solvent extraction method to determine the antioxidant value of various agricultural waste by-products. Followed by microwave-assisted extraction (MAE) and ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) methods. A wide range of antioxidant activity values were found depending on the type of agricultural waste and processing technique. One potential utilization of agricultural wastes rich in antioxidant content is as additives in formulations in the cosmetic industry.

Conclusion

Agricultural waste by-products have high potential of antioxidant content, depending on the type of waste and extraction method. The dominant agricultural waste used is by-products from the fruit group. The utilization of agricultural waste that is rich in antioxidants has the potential to be utilized in the cosmetic industry.

Essential oil from Citrus depressa peel exhibits antimicrobial, antioxidant and cancer chemopreventive effects

BACKGROUND

Many diseases may be caused by pathogens and oxidative stress resulting from carcinogens. Earlier studies have highlighted the antimicrobial and antioxidant effects of plant essential oils (EO). It is crucial to effectively utilize agricultural waste to achieve a sustainable agricultural economy and protect the environment. The present study aimed to evaluate the potential benefits of EO extracted from the discarded peels of Citrus depressa Hayata (CD) and Citrus microcarpa Bunge (CM), synonyms of Citrus deliciosa Ten and Citrus japonica Thunb, respectively.

RESULTS

Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis revealed that the main compounds in CD-EO were (R)-(+)-limonene (38.97%), γ-terpinene (24.39%) and linalool (6.22%), whereas, in CM-EO, the main compounds were (R)-(+)-limonene (48.00%), β-pinene (13.60%) and γ-terpinene (12.07%). CD-EO exhibited inhibitory effects on the growth of common microorganisms, including Candida albicans, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Staphylococcus aureus. However, CM-EO showed only inhibitory effects on E. coli. Furthermore, CD-EO exhibited superior antioxidant potential, as demonstrated by its ability to eliminate 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl and 2,2'-azinobis-3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulfonate free radicals. Furthermore, CD-EO at a concentration of 100 μg mL-1 significantly inhibited 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate-induced cancer transformation in mouse epidermal JB6 P+ cells (P < 0.05), possibly by up-regulating protein expression of nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 and its downstream antioxidant enzymes, such as NAD(P)H:quinone oxidoreductase 1, heme oxygenase-1 and UGT1A.

CONCLUSION

These findings suggest that CD-EO exhibits inhibitory effects on pathogenic microorganisms, possesses antioxidant properties and has cancer chemopreventive potential. © 2024 Society of Chemical Industry.

Looking into the lipid profile of avocado and byproducts: Using lipidomics to explore value-added compounds

Consumer priorities in healthy diets and lifestyle boosted the demand for nutritious and functional foods as well as plant-based ingredients. Avocado has become a food trend due to its nutritional and functional values, which in turn is increasing its consumption and production worldwide. Avocado edible portion has a high content of lipids, with the pulp and its oil being rich in monounsaturated fatty acids and essential omega - 3 and omega - 6 polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA). These fatty acids are mainly esterified in triacylglycerides, the major lipids in pulp, but also in minor components such as polar lipids (phospholipids and glycolipids). Polar lipids of avocado have been overlooked despite being recently highlighted with functional properties as well. The growth in the industry of avocado products is generating an increased amount of their byproducts, such as seed and peels (nonedible portions), still undervalued. The few studies on avocado byproducts pointed out that they also contain interesting lipids, with seeds particularly rich in polar lipids bearing PUFA, and thus can be reused as a source of add-value phytochemical. Mass spectrometry-based lipidomics approaches appear as an essential tool to unveil the complex lipid signature of avocado and its byproducts, contributing to the recognition of value-added lipids and opening new avenues for their use in novel biotechnological applications. The present review provides an up-to-date overview of the lipid signature from avocado pulp, peel, seed, and its oils.

Unravelling the Influence of Chlorogenic Acid on the Antioxidant Phytochemistry of Avocado (Persea americana Mill.) Fruit Peel

Oxidative stress is pivotal in the pathology of many diseases. This study investigated the antioxidant phytochemistry of avocado (Persea americana Mill.) peel. Different solvent extracts (dichloromethane, ethyl acetate, methanol, and water) of avocado peel were subjected to total phenol and flavonoid quantification, as well as in vitro radical scavenging and ferric reducing evaluation. The methanol extract was subjected to gradient column chromatographic fractionation. Fraction 8 (eluted with hexane:chloroform:methanol volume ratio of 3:6.5:0.5, respectively) was subjected to LC-MS analysis. It was assessed for cellular inhibition of lipid peroxidation and lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced ROS and NO production. The DPPH radical scavenging mechanism of chlorogenic acid was investigated using Density Functional Theory (DFT). The methanol extract and fraction 8 had the highest phenol content and radical scavenging activity. Chlorogenic acid (103.5 mg/mL) and 1-O-caffeoylquinic acid (102.3 mg/mL) were the most abundant phenolics in the fraction. Fraction 8 and chlorogenic acid dose-dependently inhibited in vitro (IC50 = 5.73 and 6.17 µg/mL) and cellular (IC50 = 15.9 and 9.34 µg/mL) FeSO4-induced lipid peroxidation, as well as LPS-induced ROS (IC50 = 39.6 and 28.2 µg/mL) and NO (IC50 = 63.5 and 107 µg/mL) production, while modulating antioxidant enzyme activity. The fraction and chlorogenic acid were not cytotoxic. DFT analysis suggest that an electron transfer, followed by proton transfer at carbons 3'OH and 4'OH positions may be the radical scavenging mechanism of chlorogenic acid. Considering this study is bioassay-guided, it is logical to conclude that chlorogenic acid strongly influences the antioxidant capacity of avocado fruit peel.

Sustainable Alternatives to Petroleum-Derived Excipients in Pharmaceutical Oil-in-Water Creams

Recently, vast efforts towards sustainability have been made in the pharmaceutical industry. In conventional oil-in-water (O/W) cream formulations, various petroleum-based excipients, namely mineral oil and petrolatum, are commonly used. Natural or synthetic excipients, derived from vegetable sources, were explored as alternatives to petroleum-based excipients in prototype topical creams, with 1% (w/w) lidocaine. A conventional cream comprised of petroleum-derived excipients was compared to creams containing sustainable excipients in terms of key quality and performance attributes, physicochemical properties, and formulation performance. The petrolatum-based control formulation had the highest viscosity of 248.0 Pa·s, a melting point of 42.7°C, a low separation index at 25°C of 0.031, and an IVRT flux of 52.9 µg/cm2/h. Formulation SUS-4 was the least viscous formulation at 86.9 Pa·s, had the lowest melting point of 33.6°C, the highest separation index of 0.120, and the highest IVRT flux of 139.4 µg/cm2/h. Alternatively, SUS-5 had a higher viscosity of 131.3 Pa·s, a melting point of 43.6°C, a low separation index of 0.046, and the lowest IVRT flux of 25.2 µg/cm2/h. The cumulative drug permeation after 12 h from SUS-4, SUS-5, and the control were 126.2 µg/cm2, 113.8 µg/cm2, and 108.1 µg/cm2, respectively. The composition of the oil-in-water creams had influence on physicochemical properties and drug release; however, skin permeation was not impacted. Sustainable natural or synthetic excipients in topical cream formulations were found to be suitable alternatives to petroleum-based excipients with comparable key quality attributes and performance attributes and should be considered during formulation development.

Bioactive Compounds and Potential Health Benefits through Cosmetic Applications of Cherry Stem Extract

Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

A Comparative Study between Onion Peel Extracts, Free and Complexed with β-Cyclodextrin, as a Natural UV Filter to Cosmetic Formulations

The growing concern regarding the adverse effects of synthetic UV filters found in sunscreens has spurred significant attention due to their potential harm to aquatic ecosystems and human health. To address this, the present study aimed to extract and microencapsulate sensitive bioactive compounds derived from by-product onion peel (OP) by molecular inclusion using β-cyclodextrin as the wall material. Identification and quantification of bioactive compounds within the extract were conducted through high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC-DAD) analysis, revealing quercetin and resveratrol as the primary constituents. The photoprotection capacity, evaluated by the sun protection factor (SPF), revealed a protection factor comparable to the value for a synthetic UV filter. The produced microparticles presented high antioxidant capacity, significant photoprotection capacity, encapsulation efficiency of 91.8%, mean diameter of 31 μm, and polydispersity of 2.09. Furthermore, to comprehensively evaluate the performance of OP extract and its potential as a natural UV filter, five O/W emulsions were produced. Results demonstrated that microparticles displayed superior ability in maintaining SPF values over a five-week period. Photoprotection evaluation-skin reactivity tests revealed that both extract and microparticles absorb UV radiation in other regions of UV radiation, revealing their potential to be used as a natural UV filter to produce a sustainable and eco-friendly value-added sunscreen.

A Novel Approach in Skin Care: By-Product Extracts as Natural UV Filters and an Alternative to Synthetic Ones

The cosmetic industry has been focusing on replacing synthetic ingredients with natural ones, taking advantage of their bioactive compounds. This work assessed the biological properties of onion peel (OP) and passion fruit peel (PFP) extracts in topical formulations as an alternative to synthetic antioxidants and UV filters. The extracts were characterized regarding their antioxidant capacity, antibacterial capacity and sun protection factor (SPF) value. Results revealed that the OP extract exhibited better results, which can result from the high concentrations of quercetin, as identified and quantified in HPLC analysis. Afterward, nine formulations of O/W creams were produced with minor changes in the quantity of additives: OP and PFP extract (natural antioxidants and UV filters), BHT (synthetic antioxidant) and oxybenzone (synthetic UV filter). The stability of the formulations was determined for 28 days; it was verified that they remained stable throughout the study period. The assays of the formulations' antioxidant capacity and SPF value revealed that OP and PFP extracts have some photoprotective properties and are excellent sources of antioxidants. As a result, they can be incorporated in daily moisturizers with SPF and sunscreens replacing and/or diminishing the quantities of synthetic ingredients, reducing their negative effects on human health and the environment.

Response Surface Modeling and Optimization of the Extraction of Phenolic Antioxidants from Olive Mill Pomace

Bioactive compounds from olive mill pomace (OMP) were extracted through a two-step solid-liquid extraction procedure considering four factors at five levels of a central composite rotatable response surface design. The influence of the process variables time of the primary extraction (2.0-4.0 h), solvent-to-sample ratio during the primary extraction (5.0-10.0 mL/g), time of the secondary extraction (1.0-2.0 h), and the solvent-to-sample ratio during the secondary extraction (3.0-5.0 mL/g) were examined. The content of bioactive compounds was determined spectrophotometrically, and the individual phenolic compounds were evaluated by reserved-phase high-performance liquid chromatography (RP-HPLC). The Derringer's function was used to optimize the extraction process, and the best conditions were found to be 3.2 h for the primary extraction, 10.0 mL/g for the solvent-to-sample ratio and 1.3 h for the secondary extraction associated with a solvent-to-sample ratio of 3.0 mL/g, obtaining a total phenolic content of 50.0 (expressed as mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g dry weight (dw). The response surface methodology proved to be a great alternative for reducing the number of tests, allowing the optimization of the extraction of phenolic antioxidants from OMP with a reduced number of experiments, promoting reductions in cost and analysis time.

The significant value of sustainable cosmetics fragrance in the spotlight after COVID-19

BACKGROUND

The coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) pandemic has brought major changes to the world's population. This has led to increased wearing of masks to prevent infectious diseases, which can contribute to exacerbation of stress and the emergence of mental illness due to a physical health crisis.

OBJECTIVES

Therefore, this study comprehensively investigated the reasons why cosmetics customers pay attention to sustainable fragrances after COVID-19.

METHODS

This review article is a literature review, and a narrative review approach was used in this study. A total of 598 references were selected from 2004 to 2022 using representative journal search sites such as PubMed, Google Scholar, Scopus, and RISS. Among them, a total of 39 articles were successfully completed in this study using the PRISMA flowchart in the final stage.

RESULTS

In this study, by identifying the changes and needs of K-beauty and global cosmetics industry consumers who aspire for sustainable safety amid the COVID-19 pandemic, the increase in bad breath caused by the increase in mask wearing was recognized, and the need for fragrance due to mental health was recognized. Demand is expected to increase.

CONCLUSION

This study tried to change the perception of cosmetic fragrances into safe edible fragrances. Therefore, it is expected to be used as an important marketing material for the global cosmetics market.