Miniaturized Matrix Solid-Phase Dispersion for the Analysis of Ultraviolet Filters and Other Cosmetic Ingredients in Personal Care Products

Mass-Spectrometry-Based Research of Cosmetic Ingredients

Cosmetic products are chemical substances or mixtures used on the skin, hair, nails, teeth, and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity, whose use is intended to clean, protect, correct body odor, perfume, keep in good condition, or change appearance. The analysis of cosmetic ingredients is often challenging because of their huge complexity and their adulteration. Among various analytical tools, mass spectrometry (MS) has been largely used for compound detection, ingredient screening, quality control, detection of product authenticity, and health risk evaluation. This work is focused on the MS applications in detecting and quantification of some common cosmetic ingredients, i.e., preservatives, dyes, heavy metals, allergens, and bioconjugates in various matrices (leave-on or rinse-off cosmetic products). As a global view, MS-based analysis of bioconjugates is a narrow field, and LC- and GC/GC×GC-MS are widely used for the investigation of preservatives, dyes, and fragrances, while inductively coupled plasma (ICP)-MS is ideal for comprehensive analysis of heavy metals. Ambient ionization approaches and advanced separation methods (i.e., convergence chromatography (UPC2)) coupled to MS have been proven to be an excellent choice for the analysis of scented allergens. At the same time, the current paper explores the challenges of MS-based analysis for cosmetic safety studies.

Applications of mass spectrometry in cosmetic analysis: An overview

Mass spectrometry (MS) is a crucial tool in cosmetic analysis. It is widely used for ingredient screening, quality control, risk monitoring, authenticity verification, and efficacy evaluation. However, due to the diversity of cosmetic products and the rapid development of MS-based analytical methods, the relevant literature needs a more systematic collation of information on this subject to unravel the true potential of MS in cosmetic analysis. Herein, an overview of the role of MS in cosmetic analysis over the past two decades is presented. The currently used sample preparation methods, ionization techniques, and types of mass analyzers are demonstrated in detail. In addition, a brief perspective on the future development of MS for cosmetic analysis is provided.

Miniaturized Sample Preparation Methods to Simultaneously Determine the Levels of Glycols, Glycol Ethers and Their Acetates in Cosmetics

Two environmentally friendly methodologies based on ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) and micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion (µMSPD) followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis are proposed for the first time for the simultaneous analysis of 17 glycols, glycol ethers, and their acetates in cosmetics. These sample preparation approaches result in efficient and low-cost extraction while employing small amounts of sample, with a low consumption of reagents and organic solvents. The use of a highly polar column allows for the direct analysis of the obtained extracts by GC-MS without a previous derivatization step, drastically reducing the sample preparation time and residues and thus complying with green analytical chemistry (GAC) principles. Both the UAE and µMSPD methodologies were validated in terms of linearity, accuracy, and precision, providing satisfactory results. LODs were found to be lower than 0.75 µg g−1, allowing the determination of trace levels of the forbidden target compounds. Finally, the validated methodologies were applied to real cosmetics and personal care products, showing suitability, and providing a reliable and useful tool for cosmetics control laboratories.

Recent Advances in Sample Preparation for Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Analysis

The use of cosmetics and personal care products is increasing worldwide. Their high matrix complexity, together with the wide range of products currently marketed under different forms imply a challenge for their analysis, most of them requiring a sample pre-treatment step before analysis. Classical sample preparation methodologies involve large amounts of organic solvents as well as multiple steps resulting in large time consumption. Therefore, in recent years, the trends have been moved towards the development of simple, sustainable, and environmentally friendly methodologies in two ways: (i) the miniaturization of conventional procedures allowing a reduction in the consumption of solvents and reagents; and (ii) the development and application of sorbent- and liquid-based microextraction technologies to obtain a high analyte enrichment, avoiding or significantly reducing the use of organic solvents. This review provides an overview of analytical methodology during the last ten years, placing special emphasis on sample preparation to analyse cosmetics and personal care products. The use of liquid–liquid and solid–liquid extraction (LLE, SLE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), solid-phase extraction (SPE), pressurized liquid extraction (PLE), matrix solid-phase extraction (MSPD), and liquid- and sorbent-based microextraction techniques will be reviewed. The most recent advances and future trends including the development of new materials and green solvents will be also addressed.

Analytical methods for the determination of endocrine disrupting chemicals in cosmetics and personal care products: A review

Personal care products (PCPs) and cosmetics are indispensable product in our daily routine. Their widespread use makes them a potential route of exposure for certain contaminants to which human would not be normally exposed. One of these contaminants includes endocrine disrupting chemicals, molecules capable of mimicking the body's natural hormones and interfering with the endocrine system. Some of them are ingredients included in the product's formulation, such as UV-filters (sunscreens), phthalates (plasticizers and preservatives), synthetic musks (fragrances), parabens and other antimicrobial agents (antimicrobial preservatives). Others are non-intended added substances that may result from the manufacturing process or migration from the plastic packaging, as with bisphenols and perfluorinated compounds. Some of these endocrine disruptors have been restricted or even banned in cosmetics and PCPs given the high risk they pose to health. Thus, the development of fast, sensitive and precise methods for the identification and quantification of these compounds in cosmetics is a substantial need in order to ensure consumer safety and provide insight into the real risk of human exposure. The present work aims at reviewing the more recently developed analytical methods published in the literature for the determination of endocrine disrupting chemicals in cosmetics and PCPs using chromatographic techniques, with a focus on sample treatment and the quality of analytical parameters.

Multi-Target Strategy to Uncover Unexpected Compounds in Rinse-Off and Leave-On Cosmetics

The wide range and complexity of cosmetic formulations currently available on the market poses a challenge from an analytical point of view. In addition, during cosmetics manufacture, impurities coming from raw materials or formed by reaction of different organic compounds present in the formulation may be present. Their identification is mandatory to assure product quality and consumer health. In this work, micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion (μMSPD) is proposed as a multi-target sample preparation strategy to analyze a wide number of unexpected families of compounds including polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), pesticides, plasticizers, nitrosamines, alkylphenols (APs), and alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs). Analytical determination was performed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) for the determination of 51 target compounds in a single run, whereas liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) was employed for the analysis of six APs and APEOs. Both methodologies were successfully validated in terms of linearity, accuracy, and precision in leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics. Limits of detection (LODs) were calculated in the low ng g⁻¹, showing their suitability to determine trace levels of impurities and banned compounds with different chemical natures, providing useful tools to cosmetic control laboratories and companies.