Different Cosmetic Habits Can Affect the Biophysical Profile of Facial Skin: A Study of Korean and Chinese Women

Age-dependent changes in skin features and perceived facial appearance in women of five ethnic groups

OBJECTIVE

Research documents effects of skin features on assessments of age, health and attractiveness of female faces. Ethnic variation also has been reported for the impact of age-related changes in skin features on face assessments. Here, we investigate women's self-ratings across age cohorts and ethnic groups and discrepancies with (non-expert) assessor ratings of facial appearance together with age-dependent changes in skin features.

METHODS

Faces of women 20-65 years from five ethnic groups (each n = 36) were imaged. Participants provided self-ratings of age, health and attractiveness, and were judged on these attributes by members of the same ethnic group (each n = 120). Digital image analysis was used to quantify skin gloss, tone evenness, wrinkling and sagging. Age-dependent changes in ratings and skin features within and between ethnic groups were assessed by comparing information from 10-year cohorts. We also tested whether menopausal status could be predicted by self-ratings, assessor ratings and image-based skin features.

RESULTS

Women of all ethnic groups judged themselves younger and higher in attractiveness and health compared to third-party assessors, with the largest discrepancies for age in French women and for attractiveness and health in South African women. In Indian and South African women, specular gloss and skin tone evenness were lower compared to other participants, and sagging was higher in Indian, Japanese and South African women compared to Chinese and French women. Women's menopausal status could be predicted from assessor ratings and image-based skin features but not from self-ratings.

CONCLUSION

There are differences between women's self-ratings and assessor ratings of facial appearance. These discrepancies vary with female age and ethnicity. Age and ethnicity effects also are evident in age-dependent changes in skin features within and across ethnic groups, which together with assessor (but not self-) ratings of facial appearance predict menopausal status.

Facial Skin Aging Characteristics of the Old-Perceived Age in a 20-40 Years Old Chinese Female Population

Purpose

In the quest for a youthful appearance, women use a variety of anti- aging cosmetics. Defining skin problems is especially important for the selection of anti-aging solutions. However, the skin problems faced by Chinese women at different ages are different. This study aimed at Chinese women aged 20-40 years old and analyzed facial skin aging characteristics of those with old-perceived age.

Patients and Methods

The total of 400 standard facial photographs from Chinese female volunteers aged 20-40 was assessed by another 126 Chinese women. The facial areas and skin aging characteristics that influenced age estimation were collected at the same time. Skin aging characteristics, including wrinkles, skin tone, pigmentation and pores, were analyzed based on facial photographs. Groupings were made based on deviation of perceived age from chronological age, and skin aging characteristics among groups were compared.

Results

The perceived age of Chinese women aged 20-40 has a moderate correlation with chronological age. Women aged 20-30 generally had an old-perceived age. Deep skin tone was a prominent problem in this age group, with those who had the older-perceived age observed the darker and redder skin tone. Women aged 31-40 were perceived partly old but appeared with wrinkle aggravation, as well as deepening of redness, enlarged pores, and increased pigmentation at the mid-face. The perceived older women also had more visible frown lines and darker skin tone at the upper face.

Conclusion

The perceived age of Chinese women aged 20-40 tends to deviate from their chronological age. Women aged 20-30 with old-perceived age are associated with deep skin tone, even found darker and redder in older-perceived women group, while women aged 31-40 are associated with wrinkles and deterioration at mid-face area and upper-face problems drive more attention in older-perceived women group.

Awareness of sun exposure risks and photoprotection for preventing pigmentary disorders in Asian populations: Survey results from three Asian countries and expert panel recommendations

BACKGROUND

In this article, we review and discuss the photoprotection behavior of Asians based on the literature, along with a subanalysis of an original online survey, and make recommendations to optimize photoprotection for Asian populations to prevent photoaging and pigmentary disorders.

METHODS

An international panel of eight dermatologists from Asia (China, Korea, Japan, Singapore, Indonesia, and Vietnam) met to discuss sunscreen photoprotection for Asian patients. Additionally, a subanalysis of an online survey by 3000 respondents from three Asian countries (China, Indonesia, and Japan) investigated general public awareness and attitudes to sun exposure.

RESULTS

A pre-meeting survey of the eight experts from Asia showed key concerns of Asian patients consulting dermatologists are pigmentary disorders, especially actinic/senile lentigo, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, vitiligo, and Hori's nevus. The survey subanalysis of participants from China, Indonesia, and Japan with predominantly Fitzpatrick skin types (FST) II to IV revealed that they are particularly concerned about sun exposure causing photoaging and pigmentary disorders. Most of the respondents indicated they have limited knowledge on sunlight radiation and appropriate sunscreen protection factors. Only 22%, 13%, and 3% for China, Indonesia, and Japan, respectively, systematically use multiple protective measures (using sunscreen, avoiding midday sun, staying in the shade, wearing a hat, protective clothing, and sunglasses) when exposed to the sun.

CONCLUSIONS

Further education is needed for Asian populations on the importance of comprehensive daily photoprotection, including broad-spectrum sunscreen, with high UVA and visible light protection, to reduce and prevent photoaging and pigmentary disorders.

Diversity of Asian skin: A review on skin biophysical properties

Asian is home to dozens of different ethnic groups that are characterised by fascinating social and cultural variations. Unfortunately, existing literature on the skin properties of Asians tends to group this diverse population solely based on skin colour, perpetuating the misconception and stereotype that all Asian skin is the same. While Asia is one of the largest continents in the world, the difference in the geographical location and climate have long shaped the population into various ethnic groups with significant differences in the collective and diverse customs, traditions, cultures and living habits. The diverse ethnic groups in this region hint us that their skin biophysical characteristics can be very different from each other. This review features the profiling of the distinctive skin biophysical properties of Asians. We learn more about the different ethnic groups in Asia and acknowledge the unique skin biophysical properties even from the same country.

A cross-sectional study of Chinese women facial skin status with environmental factors and individual lifestyles

Geographical, environmental and pollution conditions affect facial skin health, but their effects on skin appearance have not been elucidated. This study aimed to describe the skin barrier and skin tone characteristics of Chinese subjects according to lifestyle and environmental conditions using in vitro measurements. In total, 1092 women aged 22-42 years were recruited from 7 representative Chinese cities. Eight skin parameters (hydration, sebum, pH, transdermal water loss, individual type angle, melanin index, erythema index, yellowness) were measured using noninvasive instruments; individual lifestyle data were also collected. Data on four meteorological factors (air temperature, relative humidity, sunshine duration, wind speed) and seven air pollution indicators (air quality index, fine particulate matter, breathable particulate matter, sulfur dioxide, nitrogen dioxide, carbon monoxide and ozone) were collected in each city from the China Meteorological Administration. Facial skin characteristics differed significantly between cities. Facial skin barrier characteristics and skin tones showed regional differences, with a better skin barrier associated with the western region, as indicated by high skin hydration and sebum secretion and a low pH value. According to the value of transdermal water loss, lighter and darker skin tones were found in the western and southern regions, respectively. Environmental conditions affected facial skin status. Air pollution induced facial skin issues, with fine particulate matter and nitrogen dioxide contributing the most. Individual lifestyles affected the facial skin barrier and skin tone.

Facial Skin Aging Stages in Chinese Females

Background

Facial skin is exposed to the environment, which marks it with obvious signs of aging. Based on multi-dimensional non-invasive evaluation data, female facial skin can be characterized in detail. However, there are few studies on the general aging rules of facial skin. Most skin aging studies divide the ages into 5-10-year intervals, so they have lacked dynamic matching with facial skin aging.

Aim

To explore facial skin aging rules, discuss the main parameters of facial skin aging, propose an unequal-distance aging division method based on the main skin parameters, and study the skin characteristics of Chinese women of different aging stages.

Methods

We comprehensively described the skin status as 24 non-invasive skin parameters belonging to five dimensions: skin wrinkles, texture, stain, color and barrier function. We performed polynomial fitting on the 21 skin parameters that were significantly correlated with age and derived the rules of aging in the different dimensions. Based on the wrinkle dimension, the facial skin aging process was divided into four stages, and the skin characteristics of the different stages were compared.

Results

Skin wrinkles increased, texture deteriorated, acne decreased, pigment spots increased, skin tone darkened, and sebum secretion decreased with age, according to the polynomial fitting. The aging stage was divided into an incubation period (18-30 years old), an aging occurrence period (31-42 years old), a rapid aging period (43-47 years old), and a stable aging period (48-60 years old), according to the wrinkles. Different aging stages had different skin characteristics.

Conclusion

The incubation period is the critical period for the appearance of skin stains; the skin texture gradually deteriorates during the aging occurrence period; the rapid aging period is a critical period for the aging of skin parameters; skin status during the stable aging period is the worst.

Correlation of Body Mass Index with Epidermal Biophysical Properties Varies with Gender in Chinese

Background

Epidermal function is associated with diabetes and renal disease. Whether obesity can reflect the changes in epidermal function is not clear yet.

Objective

We assessed here the correlation of epidermal functions with body mass index (BMI) in a large Chinese cohort.

Methods and Subjects

A total of 1,405 Chinese aged 21–98 years old were enrolled in this study. Epidermal functions, including transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum hydration, and skin surface pH, were measured on the flexor forearm and the shin. Subjects' height and body weight were also measured.

Results

Age positively correlated with both TEWL and skin surface pH, while it negatively correlated with stratum corneum hydration on both the forearm and the shin of females. Similarly, age positively correlated with skin surface pH, while negatively correlating with stratum corneum hydration on both the forearm and the shin of males. In females, BMI positively correlated with skin surface pH, while it negatively correlated with stratum corneum hydration on both the forearm and the shin. However, BMI correlated neither with skin surface pH on both the forearm and the shin nor with stratum corneum hydration on the shin of males.

Conclusion

These results demonstrate that correlations of BMI with age and epidermal functions vary with gender.

Development of a skin microbiome diagnostic method to assess skin condition in healthy individuals: Application of research on skin microbiomes and skin condition

OBJECTIVE

Skin microbiomes vary across individuals. They are known to play essential roles in maintaining homeostasis and preventing infectious pathogens. In recent years, cosmetic product development has begun to focus on the relationship between skin microbiomes and skin conditions. However, the statistical methods used in many studies include the standard t-test and small-scale correlation analysis, which do not take into account the internal correlation structure in data on skin microbiomes and skin features. In this study, we aimed to understand the relationship between skin microbiomes and skin features by analysing complex microbiomes and skin data.

METHODS

We obtained data on 19 skin characteristics and skin microbiomes based on 16s ribosomal RNA (16S rRNA) gene analysis of 276 healthy Japanese women. We then performed the principal component analysis (PCA), a method that takes into account the internal correlation structure, on 234 panels of them that did not contain outliers or missing values. We confirmed the relationship between skin microbiomes and skin features with principal component regression analysis and hierarchical clustering analysis (HCA).

RESULTS

The principal component regression analysis showed strong relationships between skin microbiomes and sebum-related skin characteristics and skin pH. In the HCA, the female panel was classified into two major groups based on the skin microbiome. Furthermore, there were significant differences in sebum-related skin characteristics and the way skin condition changes with ageing between those groups, suggesting the possibility of measuring skin condition and age-related skin risk based on microbiome data. In addition, sebum-related characteristics differed significantly among middle-aged participants, suggesting a strong relationship between skin microbiomes and sebum-related characteristics.

CONCLUSION

Analysis of skin condition and skin microbiome in Japanese women, taking into account the correlation between variables, showed that skin microbiome was significantly related to the number of pores and the amount of sebum. Furthermore, it was suggested that the skin condition and the way the skin condition changes with ageing may differ depending on the type of skin microbiome. The finding of a relationship between skin condition and skin microbiome suggests the possibility of proposing a new beauty method focusing on the skin microbiome in the future.

Facial Skin Biophysical Profile of Women in Malaysia: Significance of Facial Skincare Product Use

INTRODUCTION

At present, there is a lack of baseline data on the facial skin biophysical profile of women in Malaysia. The implications related to the daily habits and facial skincare product use on the skin biophysical condition are, thus, unknown. In this study, we aim to evaluate facial skin biophysical parameters of Malaysian women and examine the influence of demographic characteristics, daily habits, and facial skincare product use on these parameters.

METHODS

Four skin biophysical parameters - transepidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin content, elasticity, and collagen intensity - were assessed on the cheek of the subjects (20-60 years). Demographic background, daily habits, and skincare product use were gauged through a survey. Only 197 from the 213 subjects recruited initially were used for analysis after the data were screened for normality.

RESULTS

The biophysical parameters were similar in different races, except a higher melanin content in Indian female individuals. Elasticity and collagen intensity reduced with age, while melanin content increased in the older age-groups. But no difference was observed in TEWL at different ages. Evaluating the influence of daily habits, we observed that exercise significantly lowered TEWL and increased melanin content, which may be associated with UV radiation exposure. Facial skincare products are popular among the female subjects (>85% users). Products with moisturizing, sunscreening, and other skincare functions (astringent, antiaging, and anti-wrinkle) were preferred by subjects of all ages. These product functions significantly improve skin elasticity and reduce melanin content in the young adults. While aged women recognized the importance of having an additional skin-lightening function in their skincare routine. Although the influence of individual skincare function on skin biophysical parameters was mostly positive, the alteration of these parameters varied at different ages.

CONCLUSION

This is the first report of facial skin biophysical profile of Malaysian women. There is no difference among 3 major races saved for melanin content. This work demonstrated age-dependent influences on the biophysical parameters, except TEWL. The significance of skincare product use is well reflected in the improvement of these parameters at different age-groups based on individual skincare functions.

The Interaction of Age and Anatomical Region Influenced Skin Biophysical Characteristics of Chinese Women

BACKGROUND

Ageing is an inevitable physiology process of humans, and skin biophysical parameters change owing to genetic and environmental factors in different ethnic populations.

AIM

To gain comprehensive data on the skin biophysical parameters of different anatomical regions and to explore the change trend of the skin characteristics associated with age for the indicated regions by generalized additive model.

METHODS

We measured various skin biophysical parameters on forehead, cheek, chin and inner forearm of 178 Chinese women aged between 20 and 64 years living in Beijing. These parameters comprised skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum content, erythema index (EI), melanin index (MI), L*a*b* values, individual typology angle (ITA) and pH, which were quantified by non-invasive instruments.

RESULTS

Comparing the skin parameters among the four test areas, we observed that the hydration, TEWL, EI and a* values were significantly higher for the face than for the forearm, but the L* and ITA values were just the opposite. The cheek was the lightest and brightest region with lowest sebum content, while the chin was much darker and the forehead was yellowish. Considering the change of the skin parameters with age, TEWL, sebum content and melanin and erythema indices had a linear relationship with age, whereas skin hydration, L, a, b, ITA and pH values exhibited a non-monotonic relationship. The turning points of these curves appeared almost at the thirties, showing the lightest and evenest skin color and more hydration, with lower pH values.

CONCLUSION

This study indicates that the skin biophysical characteristics of Chinese women were significantly affected by age and body regions.