Human exposure characteristics of pharmaceutical and personal care product chemicals and associations with dietary habits

Considering the widespread presence of pharmaceutical and personal care products (PPCPs) in the environment and their adverse health effects, human exposure to PPCPs has caused worldwide concern. However, there remains insufficient information on the exposure assessment of the Chinese population. Based on this, the exposure levels of 13 PPCPs in the urine samples of 986 Chinese adults were measured, aiming to provide information on the prevalence of PPCP occurrence and investigate potential correlations between PPCP exposure and obesity. Results showed that the detection rates of these compounds in urine ranged from 28.12 % to 98.58 %, with median concentrations ranging below the limit of detection to 10.58 ng mL-1. Methyl-paraben (MeP) was the most dominant paraben and had the highest urinary concentration (median = 10.12 ng mL-1), while 4-hydroxy-benzophenone (4-OH-BP) was the dominant benzophenone derivative (median = 0.22 ng mL-1). In antibacterials, the urinary concentration of triclosan (mean = 42.00 ng mL-1) was much higher than that of triclocarban (mean = 0.63 ng mL-1). PPCP concentrations were significantly associated with sex, age, body mass index, education level, and annual household income (p < 0.050). Regression analysis of dietary habits showed that seafood and tea consumption may be significant exposure sources of PPCP exposure (p < 0.050). Furthermore, individual exposure to MeP (odds ratio (OR) < 1, p = 0.002) and 4-OH-BP (OR < 1, p = 0.009) exhibited a significantly negative association with obesity in females. Also, analysis results from quantile g-computation and Bayesian kernel machine regression models demonstrated that an inverse correlation between PPCP mixture exposure and obesity was significant in females. This study reports the extensive prevalence of PPCP exposure among adults from China, and may provide crucial insights into PPCP exposure dynamics. More epidemiological studies are need in the future, with a thorough knowledge of PPCP exposure.

In vitro to in vivo extrapolation to derive a metabolism factor for estimating the aggregate exposure to salicylic acid after dermal exposure of its esters

As part of the safety assessment of salicylate esters in cosmetics, we developed a metabolism factor based on in vitro to in vivo extrapolation (IVIVE) to provide a better estimation of the aggregate internal exposure to the common metabolite, salicylic acid. Optimal incubation conditions using human liver S9 were identified before measuring salicylic acid formation from 31 substances. Four control substances, not defined as salicylic esters but which could be mistaken as such due to their nomenclature, did not form salicylic acid. For the remaining substances, higher in vitro intrinsic clearance (CLint, in vitro) values generally correlated with lower LogP values. A "High-Throughput Pharmacokinetic" (HTPK) model was used to extrapolate CLint, in vitro values to human in vivo clearance and half-lives. The latter were used to calculate the percentage of substance metabolised to salicylic acid in 24 h in vivo following human exposure to the ester, i.e. the "metabolism factor". The IVIVE model correctly reproduced the observed elimination rate of 3 substances using in silico or in vitro input parameters. For other substances, in silico only-based predictions generally resulted in lower metabolism factors than when in vitro values for plasma binding and liver S9 CLint, in vitro were used. Therefore, in vitro data input provides the more conservative metabolism factors compared to those derived using on in silico input. In conclusion, these results indicate that not all substances contribute equally (or at all) to the systemic exposure to salicylic acid. Therefore, we propose a realistic metabolism correction factor by which the potential contribution of salicylate esters to the aggregate consumer exposure to salicylic acid from cosmetic use can be estimated.

'Magic cosmetic fillers': Appearance-enhancement effects on self-face recognition

People naturally exhibit a self-serving bias which can be observed in their tendency to judge their own physical attractiveness more favourably than that of others. Despite this positive self-perception, minimally invasive cosmetic injectable procedures for facial rejuvenation and enhancement are becoming increasingly common. It remains unclear, however, whether recognizing an altered version of one's own face, enhanced cosmetically, correlates with a positive view of cosmetic surgery and excessive preoccupations about physical characteristics perceived as defects (body dysmorphic concerns). In this study, 30 healthy female participants, aged 18-24 years (Mage = 21.1 years, SD = 1.6), engaged in a face recognition task during which their faces were digitally morphed with that of gender-matched unfamiliar women who had undergone cosmetic enhancements, specifically lip and cheek fillers. The duration of exposure to these modified faces varied with short (500 msec) and long (2000 msec) viewing periods. Participants were asked to identify whether the digital morphs represented themselves or the other woman. Self-reports regarding acceptance of cosmetic surgery and dysmorphic concerns were collected. Participants PSE indicated a tendency towards self-bias under short presentation times, shifting towards the other as presentation times lengthened. Interestingly, this effect was associated with greater acceptance of cosmetic surgery and higher body dysmorphic concerns. This study underscores the importance of understanding how perceptions of others' physical appearances can influence self-recognition and attitudes towards cosmetic surgery, which may have both positive and potentially harmful implications.

[Research Progress on Pollution Characteristics, Degradation, and Transformation of Typical PPCPs in the Process of Wastewater Treatment]

Pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) have received extensive attention as a new type of pollutant inin the 21st century, and the ecological and health risks caused by PPCPs have gradually been recognized by government regulatory agencies. Daily use of PPCPs has led to their frequent detection and high concentrations in the influent, effluent, and sludge of wastewater treatment plants, but traditional wastewater treatment processes can't remove them effectively. Most research about enhancing the removal of PPCPs through microbial degradation, photodegradation, and ozonation is still in the laboratory research stage, and the removal effects are not satisfactory when applied to actual sewage treatment. Therefore, the effective removal of PPCPs from domestic wastewater is a critical technical problem that urgently needs to be studied and solved in the coming years. At present, many scholars do not have a comprehensive understanding about the degradation and transformation behaviors of microbes, ultraviolet, and ozone for typical PPCPs in the wastewater treatment process, so it is necessary to conduct a systematic analysis and discussion. In this study, 16 typical PPCPs frequently detected in sewage treatment plants were selected as research objects through a literature review. The occurrence, removal characteristics, and sludge adsorption properties of typical PPCPs in wastewater treatment plants were analyzed and summarized. The degradation and transformation behavior of typical PPCPs under microbial, ultraviolet, and ozone treatments in the wastewater treatment process were also discussed. Finally, based on current research gaps, some research directions for the removal and transformation of PPCPs in wastewater were proposed:① investigation into the removal characteristics of PPCPs by actual biochemical treatment; ② study on the mechanism of microbial degradation and transformation of typical PPCPs during biochemical treatment; ③ study on the degradation and transformation mechanism of typical PPCPs by UV/ozone in an actual sewage system; and ④ research on the application technology of removing PPCPs from sewage via microbial degradation, photodegradation, ozone oxidation, etc. The relevant results of this study can provide a reference for the pollution control of typical PPCPs in the sewage treatment process.

The fate of pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) in sewer sediments:Adsorption triggering resistance gene proliferation

In recent years, large quantities of pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) have been discharged into sewers, while the mechanisms of PPCPs enrichment in sewer sediments have rarely been revealed. In this study, three PPCPs (tetracycline, sulfamethoxazole, and triclocarban) were added consecutively over a 90-day experimental period to reveal the mechanisms of PPCPs enrichment and the transmission of resistance genes in sewer sediments. The results showed that tetracycline (TC) and triclocarban (TCC) have higher adsorption concentration in sediments compared to sulfamethoxazole (SMX). The absolute abundance of Tets and suls genes increased in sediments under PPCPs pressure. The increase in secretion of extracellular polymeric substances (EPS) and the loosening of the structure exposed a large number of hydrophobic functional groups, which promoted the adsorption of PPCPs. The absolute abundance of antibiotic resistance genes (ARGs), EPS and the content of PPCPs in sediments exhibited significant correlations. The enrichment of PPCPs in sediments was attributed to the accumulation of EPS, which led to the proliferation of ARGs. These findings contributed to further understanding of the fate of PPCPs in sewer sediments and opened a new perspective for consideration of controlling the proliferation of resistance genes.

Medical properties, market potential, and microbial production of golden polyketide curcumin for food, biomedical, and cosmetic applications

Curcumin, a potent plant polyketide in turmeric, has gained recognition for its outstanding health benefits, including anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anticancer effects. Classical turmeric farming, which is widely used to produce curcumin, is linked to deforestation, soil degradation, excessive water use, and reduced biodiversity. In recent years, the microbial synthesis of curcumin has been achieved and optimized through novel strategies, offering increased safety, improved sustainability, and the potential to revolutionize production. Here, we discuss recent breakthroughs in microbial engineering and fermentation techniques, as well as their capacity to increase the yield, purity, and cost-effectiveness of curcumin production. The utilization of microbial systems not only addresses supply chain limitations but also helps meet the growing demand for curcumin in various industries, including pharmaceuticals, foods, and cosmetics.

Exploring the potential of Moringa oleifera Lam in skin disorders and cosmetics: nutritional analysis, phytochemistry, geographical distribution, ethnomedicinal uses, dermatological studies and cosmetic formulations

Moringa oleifera Lam. is a pan-tropical plant well known to the ancient world for its extensive therapeutic benefits in the Ayurvedic and Unani medical systems. The ancient world was familiar with this tree, but it has only lately been rediscovered as a multifunctional species with a huge range of possible therapeutic applications. It is a folk remedy for skin diseases, edema, sore gums, etc. This review comprises the history, ethnomedicinal applications, botanical characteristics, geographic distribution, propagation, nutritional and phytochemical profile, dermatological effects, and commercially available cosmeceuticals of Moringa oleifera Lam.Compilation of all the presented data has been done by employing various search engines like Science Direct, Google, PubMed, Research Gate, EBSCO, SciVal, SCOPUS, and Google Scholar.Studies on phytochemistry claim the presence of a variety of substances, including fatty acids, phenolic acids, sterols, oxalates, tocopherols, carotenoids, flavonoids, flavonols glycosides, tannins, terpenoids, terpene, saponins, phylates, alkaloids, glucosinolates, glycosides, and isothiocyanate. The pharmacological studies have shown the efficacy of Moringa oleifera Lam. as an antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-atopic dermatitis, antipsoriatic, promoter of wound healing, effective in treating herpes simplex virus, photoprotective, and UV protective. As a moisturizer, conditioner, hair growth promoter, cleanser, antiwrinkle, anti-aging, anti-acne, scar removal, pigmentation, and control for skin infection, sores, as well as sweating, it has also been utilized in a range of cosmeceuticals.he Moringa oleifera Lam. due to its broad range of phytochemicals can be proven boon for the treatment of dermatological disorders.

Sociocultural pressures and engagement with cosmetic products and procedures in adult women

Previous studies have shown that cosmetic procedures and products that perpetuate Western hegemonic beauty standards among women have become increasingly popular, and pressures from sociocultural agents to utilize them are significant. However, little work has documented the relationship between perceived sociocultural pressures and use of cosmetic procedures and products among a larger age range of adult women. A community sample of 308 women aged 18-66, mean (SD) age of 35.7 (9.7), reported on the cosmetic procedures they had considered or used, as well as perceived pressures from the media, peers, romantic partners, and health and beauty professionals. Findings revealed that, among those investigated, the most frequently utilized products and procedures were supplements and hair removal. However, a significant minority reported considering more invasive procedures, including cosmetic surgery. Media was the predominant source of pressure, while partners were the least frequently endorsed. While pressure from professionals and peers had small-to-moderate associations with utilization of cosmetic products and procedures, pressure from partners had the largest association with their use. This work frames important future directions for examining the impact of sociocultural pressures on women's willingness to utilize cosmetic products and procedures that are sometimes underregulated and risky for physical and mental health.

Safety-in-use test of facial cosmetic products on normal and self-assessed sensitive skin subjects

BACKGROUND

Safety-in-use (SIU) studies are commonly used by the cosmetic Industry to confirm the skin and ocular compatibility of cosmetic products under realistic in-use conditions. There are only limited case studies published about the design, outcome and interpretation of product SIU studies.

OBJECTIVE

A series of SIU case studies is presented to demonstrate the considerations in study design and how the methodology can help in supporting skin and ocular safety profile of facial cosmetic products within a population of different ethnicities with normal and self-perceived sensitive skin.

SUBJECTS/METHODS

In a series of four single-blinded SIU studies, more than 250 female study subjects of different ethnicities and with normal and self-assessed sensitive skin were asked to use different facial cosmetic products including lotions, essences and cleansers according to the instructed usage conditions of these products. Each study was specifically designed according to product usage scenarios and target consumer groups. The primary measures of safety were based on dermal evaluations by a dermatologist for erythema and dryness/scaling and by an ophthalmologist for any visible signs of an ocular condition on eyelids, conjunctivae and cornea. The study subjects were also asked for any self-perceived skin or eye reactions. Dermal and ocular irritation potential of the products under realistic product usage conditions was evaluated according to the measures.

RESULTS

Across all studies, objectively and self-assessed mean scores for skin and eye effects did not indicate any cumulative response of the investigated products over the study period.

CONCLUSIONS

As a suitable tool for assessing and establishing the skin and eye compatibility of facial cosmetic products, SIU studies can be designed according to specific consumer groups, skin types and product usage scenarios to better predict realistic in-use conditions. It can demonstrate the safe use of the investigated products for people of different ethnicities, skin types and with normal or self-assessed sensitive skin, single product use or regimen use. The test results are consistent with the inherently low irritation potential of the products.

Humulus lupulus aqueous extract and hydrolate as a potential ingredient for cosmetics: chemical characterization and in vitro antimicrobial, cytotoxicity, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory assessment

Humulus lupulus extracts have in their composition different molecules, such as polyphenols, α-acids, β-acids, and hydrocarbons, which contribute to the plant's medicinal properties. These molecules are associated with antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities.

OBJECTIVE

This work focuses on the evaluation of H. lupulus biological activities, with the aim of evaluating its potential for inclusion in cosmetic formulations.

METHODS

Two distinct aqueous extracts and two hydrolates obtained via hydrodistillation were evaluated. These include the flower parts (FE, FH) and the mix of aboveground parts (ME, MH). The chemical profiles for both aqueous extracts and hydrolates were identified by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Antimicrobial, antioxidant, cytotoxicity, and anti-inflammatory activity were tested in vitro using standard methods.

RESULTS

Rutin was the major compound found in FE (40.041 μg mg-1 of extract) and ME (2.909 μg mg-1 of extract), while humulenol II was the most abundant compound in hydrolates (FH: 20.83%; MH: 46.80%). Furthermore, FE was able to inhibit the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermis with MIC values of 50% and 25% (v/v), respectively. FH showed the same effect in Staphylococcus aureus (50% v/v). FH evidenced poor antioxidant potential in DPPH scavenging test and demonstrated significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects by reducing (***p < 0.001) intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS), NO (nitric oxide) levels (***p < 0.001) and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) protein expression (***p < 0.001) in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated macrophages. Nevertheless, it is important to note that FH exhibited cytotoxicity at high concentrations in 3T3 fibroblasts and RAW 264.7 macrophages.

CONCLUSION

The studied H. lupulus aqueous extracts and hydrolates revealed that FH stands out as the most promising bioactive source for cosmetic formulations. However, future research addressing antimicrobial activity is necessary to confirm its potential incorporation into dermatological and cosmetic formulations.

New Insight into Utilization of Fish By-Product Proteins and Their Skin Health Promoting Effects

In regions reliant on fisheries for livelihoods, a significant number of fish by-products are generated annually due to processing. These discarded parts contain valuable biological resources, such as proteins, fish oils, and trace elements, thus holding enormous potential for reutilization. In recent years, fish by-product proteins have been widely utilized in skincare products due to their rich collagen content, biosafety, and biocompatibility. This review summarizes the research into and applications of fish by-product proteins in skin health, including alleviating oxidative stress and skin inflammation, reducing DNA damage, mitigating melanin production, improving skin hydration, slowing skin matrix degradation, and promoting synthesis. Additionally, the possibility of improving skin health by improving the abundance of gut microbiota is also discussed. This review underscores the importance of fish by-product proteins in the fisheries, food processing, cosmetics, and biomedical industries.

Effects of dissolved organic matter and halogen ions on phototransformation of pharmaceuticals and personal care products in aquatic environments

Photochemical reactions contribute to the attenuation and transformation of pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) in surface natural waters. Nevertheless, effects of DOM and halogen ions on phototransformation of PPCPs remain elusive. This work selected disparate PPCPs as target pollutants to investigate their aquatic phototransformation processes. Results show that PPCPs containing multiple electron-donating groups (-OH, -NH2, -OR, etc.) are more reactive with photochemically produced reactive intermediates (PPRIs) such as triplet DOM (3DOM*), singlet oxygen (1O2), and reactive halogen species (RHSs), relative to PPCPs containing electron-withdrawing groups (-NOR, -COOR, -OCR, etc.). The generation of RHSs as a result of the coexistance of DOM and halide ions changed the contribution of PPRIs to the photochemical conversion of PPCPs during their migration from fresh water to seawater. For PPCPs (AMP, SMZ, PN, NOR, CIP, etc) with highly reactive groups toward RHSs, the generation of RHSs facilitated their photolysis in halide ion-rich waters, where Cl- plays a critical role in the photochemical transformation of PPCPs. Density functional theory (DFT) calculations showed that single electron transfer and H-abstraction are main reaction pathways of RHSs with the PPCPs. These results demonstate the irreplaceable roles of PPRIs and revealing the underlying reaction mechanisms during the phototransformation of PPCPs, which contributes to a better understanding of the environmental behaviors of PPCPs in complex aquatic environments.

Time-dependent hormesis transfer from five high-frequency personal care product components to mixtures

There is potential for personal care products (PCPs) components and mixtures to induce hormesis. How hormesis is related to time and transmitted from components to mixtures are not clear. In this paper, we conducted determination of components in 16 PCP products and then ran frequent itemset mining on the component data. Five high-frequency components (HFCs), betaine (BET), 1,3-butanediol (BUT), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt (EDTA), glycerol (GLO), and phenoxyethanol (POE), and 14 mixtures were identified. For each mixture system, one mixture ray with the actual mixture ratios in the products was selected. Time-dependent microplate toxicity analysis was used to test the luminescence inhibition toxicity of five HFCs and 14 mixture rays to Vibrio qinghaiensis sp.-Q67 at 12 concentration gradients and eight exposure times. It is showed that BET, EDTA, POE, and 13 mixture rays containing at least one J-type component showed time-dependent hormesis. Characteristic parameters used to describe hormesis revealed that the absolute value of the maximum stimulatory effect (|Emin|) generally increased with time. Notably, mixtures composed of POE and S-type components showed greater |Emin| than POE alone at the same time. Importantly, the maximum stimulatory effective concentration, NOEC/the zero effective concentration point, and EC50 remained relatively stable. Nine hormesis transmission phenomena were observed in different mixture rays. While all mixtures primarily exhibited additive action, varying degrees of synergism and antagonism were noted in binary mixtures, with no strong synergism or antagonism observed in ternary and quaternary mixtures. These findings offer valuable insights for the screening of HFCs and their mixtures, as well as the study of hormesis transmission in personal care products.

Results of patch testing 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) in the European baseline series: A 4-year retrospective study

BACKGROUND

2-Hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) was added to the European baseline series (EBS) in 2019. Few recent data are available on the frequency and relevance of positive reactions to this hapten.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the frequency and relevance of positive patch tests to HEMA in the EBS in a university hospital in Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

Retrospective study in patients with positive patch tests to HEMA investigated between June 2019 and August 2023.

RESULTS

Of 2927 consecutive patients, 88 (79 women and 9 men; 3.0%) had a positive reaction to HEMA. The prevalence in women was 3.9%, in men 1.0%. Forty-three (49%) reactions were judged to be of current clinical relevance and 21 (24%) of past relevance. In this group of 64 patients with relevant reactions, 18 (28%) had occupational contact with (meth)acrylate-containing products, of who 11 (61%) were nail stylists. In 46 patients with non-occupational allergic contact dermatitis, 31 (67%) had allergic reactions to nail cosmetics. Glues and glue-containing products accounted for 22% of the materials causing allergic contact dermatitis and dental products for 8%.

CONCLUSIONS

Allergic reactions to HEMA are very frequent in women investigated in Amsterdam. Nearly two thirds of cases were caused by nail cosmetics.

Unveiling combined ecotoxicity: Interactions and impacts of engineered nanoparticles and PPCPs

Emerging contaminants such as engineered nanoparticles (ENPs), pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) are of great concern because of their wide distribution and incomplete removal in conventional wastewater and soil treatment processes. The production and usage of ENPs and PPCPs inevitably result in their coexistence in different environmental media, thus posing various risks to organisms in aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems. However, the existing literature on the physicochemical interactions between ENPs and PPCPs and their effects on organisms is rather limited. Therefore, this paper summarized the ecotoxicity of combined ENPs and PPCPs by discussing: (1) the interactions between ENPs and PPCPs, including processes such as aggregation, adsorption, transformation, and desorption, considering the influence of environmental factors like pH, ionic strength, dissolved organic matter, and temperature; (2) the effects of these interactions on bioaccumulation, bioavailability and biotoxicity in organisms at different trophic levels; (3) the impacted of ENPs and PPCPs on cellular-level biological process. This review elucidated the potential ecological hazards associated with the interaction of ENPs and PPCPs, and serves as a foundation for future investigations into the ecotoxicity and mode of action of ENPs, PPCPs, and their co-occurring metabolites.

Dermal absorption of cyclic and linear siloxanes: a review

Cyclic and linear siloxanes are compounds synthesized from silicon consisting of alternating atoms of silicone and oxygen [Si-O] units with organic side chains. The most common cyclic siloxanes are octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5), and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), while the most common linear siloxanes are high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and low molecular weight volatile linear siloxanes known as hexamethyldisiloxane (L2), octamethyltrisiloxane (L3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), dodecamethylpentasiloxane (L5). These compounds (1) exhibit low dermal toxicity, (2) are generally inert and non-reactive, and (3) are compatible with a wide range of chemicals offering beneficial chemical properties which include the following: wash-off or transfer resistance from the skin, sun protection factor (SPF) enhancement, emolliency in cleaning products). Because of these properties, these compounds are incorporated into multiple consumer products for use on the skin, such as cosmetics and health-care products, with over 300,000 tons annually sold into the personal care and consumer products sector. Because of their widespread use in consumer products and potential for human dermal exposure, a comprehensive understanding of the dermal absorption and overall fate of siloxanes following dermal exposure is important. This review summarizes available data associated with the dermal absorption/penetration as well as fate of the most commonly used siloxane substances.

Current strategies on bioremediation of personal care products and detergents: Sustainability and life cycle assessment

The increased use of personal care products and detergents in modern society has raised concerns about their potential adverse effects on the environment. These products contain various chemical compounds that can persist in water bodies, leading to water pollution and ecological disturbances. Bioremediation has emerged as a promising approach to address these challenges, utilizing the natural capabilities of microorganisms to degrade or remove these contaminants. This review examines the current strategies employed in the bioremediation of personal care products and detergents, with a specific focus on their sustainability and environmental impact. This bioremediation is essential for environmental rejuvenation, as it uses living organisms to detergents and other daily used products. Its distinctiveness stems from sustainable, nature-centric ways that provide eco-friendly solutions for pollution eradication and nurturing a healthy planet, all while avoiding copying. Explores the use of microbial consortia, enzyme-based treatments, and novel biotechnological approaches in the context of environmental remediation. Additionally, the ecological implications and long-term sustainability of these strategies are assessed. Understanding the strengths and limitations of these bioremediation techniques is essential for developing effective and environmentally friendly solutions to mitigate the impact of personal care products and detergents on ecosystems.

Contribution of cosmetic ingredients and skin care textures to emotions

OBJECTIVE

Emotions play an important role in consumers' perception of a sensory experience. The objective of this work was to investigate the ability of basic skin care formulas (i.e. without interference of odour, colour and packaging) and pillar ingredients (i.e. emollients and rheology modifiers) to elicit emotions. Another objective was to track, as claimed by neurocosmetics, the possible effect of formulas to trigger emotions from their direct biochemical effects on the skin.

METHODS

Standard methodologies were mobilized, combining subjective and behavioural parameters (i.e. verbatim, prosody and gesture). Sense and Story methodology based on a collection of metaphoric verbatim was conducted after an induction phase. In addition, an experimental electrophysiological real-time visualization method was tried as a first experience in cosmetics. Finally, the ability of formulations with emotional benefits to modulate the release of neuropeptides by sensory neurons was evaluated on a 3D human model (epidermis co-cultured with sensory neurons).

RESULTS

Skin care formulas were shown to play a role in emotional potential and the types of emotion generated, while changing one ingredient mostly acted on the intensity of the emotions. Verbatim provided contrasted answers depending on the protocol, highlighting the interest of non-verbal approaches to detect subtle effects. The in vitro model substantiated physiological effects of skin care formulas with emotional potential on human skin sensory neuron activity.

CONCLUSION

Emotions were impacted by the change in ingredients and were better captured through non-verbal methods.

The topical application of different galenic formulations can alter the thermographic images of skin: Limitations for public thermal screening on infection control situations

BACKGROUND

To analyze whether the application of topical formulas as cosmetics or sunscreens could affect the skin thermographic readings in terms of infection control in pandemic situations.

METHODS

The temperature of the skin of the dorsal region of the back and the face of 20 volunteers was followed after the application of 6 different types of gels, sunscreens, and make-up under controlled temperature and humidity conditions. High-resolution thermographic images were analyzed to calculate the temperature of treated skin compared to skin free of topical products.

RESULTS

The application of hydroalcoholic gel resulted in a mean drop of more than 2°C just after 1 minute followed by organic sunscreens until 1.7°C. Recovery was observed progressively until minute 9. Color make-up type formulas, rich in iron oxide as well as sunscreens with mineral filters had little or no effect on the skin thermal response.

CONCLUSIONS

It is possible to alter the skin temperature almost immediately by using hydroalcoholic gels and sunscreen cosmetics. So, it is possible to produce false negative data in the readings of patients screened thermically.

Characterization and applications of biomacromolecule structurally similar to glycogen as a dispersion aid and skin protection agent

Glycogen is a naturally occurring or metabolically synthesized biological macromolecule found in a wide range of living organisms, including animals, microorganisms, and even plants. However, naturally sourced glycogen poses challenges for industrial use. This study focused on a biological macromolecule referred to as glycogen-like particles (GLPs), detailing the production methods and biological properties of these particles. In vitro enzymatic production of GLPs was successfully achieved. GLPs synthesized through a simultaneous enzymatic reaction using sucrose had significant changes in their structure and functionality based on the branching enzyme (BE) to amylosucrase (ASase) ratio. As this ratio increased, the GLPs developed higher molecular weights and greater density, solubility, and branching degree while reducing size and turbidity. Structural changes in these enzymes were not observed beyond a critical BE/ASase ratio. Uniformly dispersed curcumin powder was generated in 50 % (w/v) aqueous GLP solution, and the GLPs were non-toxic to human skin keratinocytes at a concentration of 2.5 mg/mL. GLPs with lower branching inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis, while those with more long chains displayed effective UV-blocking. By manipulating the BE/ASase ratio, GLPs were shown to display diverse chemical structures and physical characteristics, suggesting their potential application in the food and cosmetics industries.

Sensitisation to ethylhexyl salicylate: Another piece of the frontal fibrosing alopecia puzzle

BACKGROUND

There is speculation that some environmental factors may be impacting the increasing incidence of frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA). In a recent publication, sensitisation to benzyl salicylate was shown to be prevalent among 36 patients with FFA. Ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS), a light stabiliser, ultraviolet (UV) B absorber and UV filter, frequently found in photoprotectors/cosmetics and, rarely reported as a sensitiser, was not patch tested in said research.

METHODS

From January 2021 to February 2022, 33 patients with FFA were patch-tested with the European Photopatch Series, including EHS 10% pet. in two hospitals. In addition, we conducted a literature review and a market survey.

RESULTS

Patch test reactions to EHS were identified in 9 of 33 (27.3%). Four of nine also reacted to their personal sunscreens (containing EHS). All involved women with a mean age of 54 (30-65). Five patients had been diagnosed with FFA before the patch tests; and, four were diagnosed with FFA during the patch test investigations.

CONCLUSION

Sensitisation to EHS was frequently found in a selected population of patients with FFA. We propose to expand the spectrum of contact allergens described in patients with FFA to include EHS and discuss the possible need for optimization of the patch test preparation.

Monitoring Pharmaceuticals and Personal Care Products in Healthcare Effluent Wastewater Samples and the Effectiveness of Drug Removal in Wastewater Treatment Plants Using the UHPLC-MS/MS Method

A multi-residue UHPLC-MS/MS analytical method, previously developed for monitoring 52 pharmaceuticals in drinking water, was used to analyse these pharmaceuticals in wastewater originating from healthcare facilities in the Czech Republic. Furthermore, the methodology was expanded to include the evaluation of the effectiveness of drug removal in Czech wastewater treatment plants (WWTPs). Of the 18 wastewater samples analysed by the validated UHPLC-MS/MS, each sample contained at least one quantifiable analyte. This study reveals the prevalence of several different drugs; mean concentrations of 702 μg L-1 of iomeprol, 48.8 μg L-1 of iopromide, 29.9 μg L-1 of gabapentin, 42.0 μg L-1 of caffeine and 82.5 μg L-1 of paracetamol were present. An analysis of 20 samples from ten WWTPs revealed different removal efficiencies for different analytes. Paracetamol was present in the inflow samples of all ten WWTPs and its removal efficiency was 100%. Analytes such as caffeine, ketoprofen, naproxen or atenolol showed high removal efficiencies exceeding 80%. On the other hand, pharmaceuticals like furosemide, metoprolol, iomeprol, zolpidem and tramadol showed lower removal efficiencies. Four pharmaceuticals exhibited higher concentrations in WWTP effluents than in the influents, resulting in negative removal efficiencies: warfarin at -9.5%, indomethacin at -53%, trimethoprim at -54% and metronidazole at -110%. These comprehensive findings contribute valuable insights to the pharmaceutical landscape of wastewater from healthcare facilities and the varied removal efficiencies of Czech WWTPs, which together with the already published literature, gives a more complete picture of the burden on the aquatic environment.

Bioactive Compounds and Potential Health Benefits through Cosmetic Applications of Cherry Stem Extract

Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

Film-Forming, Moisturizing, and Sensory Properties of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Tara Gum and Brazilian Berry Extracts

The development of cosmetic formulations with moisturizing and film-forming properties has been very important to help keep skin physiology and protection. In this context, this study aimed to develop a cosmetic formulation containing Tara gum and Brazilian berry extract and evaluate its physical-mechanical, film-forming, and sensory properties. A gel formulation was developed based on Tara gum added to Plinia cauliflora extract and was characterized by its spreadability profile and sensory properties. A clinical study was carried out with ten participants to evaluate the skin microrelief, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin morphological characteristics by reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) before and after 2 h of application of the formulations. The formulation with Brazilian berry significantly decreased the work of shear parameter, which can be correlated with improved spreadability in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed that both formulations improved skin hydration and reduced the TEWL. The RCM imaging analysis showed the visible film on the skin surface, a decrease in the size of furrows, an increase in the reflectance of the interkeratinocytes, and reflectance of the stratum corneum for both formulations. These results were more pronounced for the formulation containing Brazilian berry. The Tara gum in the gel formulation promoted the formation and visualization of a polymeric net on the stratum corneum surface, demonstrated by the images obtained from RCM. However, the formulation added with the Brazilian berry extract improved the skin microrelief, honeycomb pattern of the epidermis, and skin hydration in deeper layers of the epidermis.