Intrinsic and extrinsic factors in skin ageing: a review

Prospective Evaluation of Mango Fruit Intake on Facial Wrinkles and Erythema in Postmenopausal Women: A Randomized Clinical Pilot Study

Mangos are rich in β-carotene and other carotenoids, along with several phenolic acids that may provide oxidant defense and photoprotection to the skin. The objectives of this study are to investigate the effects of Ataulfo mango intake on the development of facial wrinkles and erythema. A randomized two-group parallel-arm study was conducted to assess 16 weeks of either 85 g or 250 g of mango intake in healthy postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin type II or III. Facial photographs were captured at weeks 0, 8, and 16, and wrinkles at the lateral canthi and erythema at the cheeks were quantified. Skin carotenoid values were measured with reflection spectroscopy. Deep wrinkle severity decreased significantly in the 85 g group after 8 (p = 0.007) and 16 (p = 0.03) weeks compared to baseline measures. In contrast, those in the 250 g group showed an increase after 16 weeks in average wrinkle severity (p = 0.049), average wrinkle length (p = 0.007), fine wrinkle severity (p = 0.02), and emerging wrinkle severity (p = 0.02). Erythema in the cheeks increased with 85 g of mango intake (p = 0.04). The intake of 85 g of mangos reduced wrinkles in fair-skinned postmenopausal women, while an intake of 250 g showed the opposite effect. Further studies feeding 85 g of mangos are warranted.

Tasmannia lanceolata leaf extract alleviates stretch mark appearance in a randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial in women and stimulates extracellular matrix synthesis in ex vivo human skin explants

BACKGROUND

The leaves of Tasmannia lanceolata mainly contain polygodial that is known to exhibit a range of biological functions including anti-inflammatory effects.

AIMS

These studies aimed to assess the effects of Tasmannia lanceolata extract (TLE) on skin and more particularly on stretch marks in women.

PATIENTS/METHODS

A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical study was carried out on 29 women, aged from 25 to 60 years, to investigate the effects of TLE on stabilized stretch marks. TLE and placebo products were topically applied daily for 8 weeks. Skin roughness and firmness of stretch marks were assessed by 2D and 3D photograph processing and analyses. Dermal density and thickness were evaluated using ultrasound, while stretch mark conditions (length, color, and depth) were determined by clinical scoring. Matricial proteins (pro-collagen I and elastin) and pro-matricial factors, like TGF-β concentrations, were quantified from cultures of human skin explants presenting stretch marks, treated with TLE or vehicle control.

RESULTS

Skin roughness of stretch marks was significantly reduced in the TLE group after 8 weeks of treatment. Skin firmness of stretch marks was significantly increased in the TLE group after 4 weeks of treatment, and this improved effect was maintained until the end of the study. Dermal density and thickness were significantly increased in the TLE group compared to the placebo group. Furthermore, TLE restored the dermal condition of the stretch mark skin, up to normal skin levels. In addition, pro-collagen I and elastin concentrations were found to be higher in the TLE-treated stretch mark skin explants compared to the untreated ones, associated with higher quantities of TGF-β production.

CONCLUSION

These results revealed that TLE could help improve the aspect of stabilized stretch marks in women by restoring the matricial environment.

Red Carrot Cells Cultured in vitro Are Effective, Stable, and Safe Ingredients for Skin Care, Nutraceutical, and Food Applications

Plant biomasses growing in bioreactor could be developed as production systems for cosmetic ingredients, nutraceuticals and food additives. We previously reported that the red carrot cell line R4G accumulates high levels of anthocyanins, which are potent antioxidants with multiple health-promoting properties. To investigate the industrial potential of this cell line in detail, we tested extract for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in the mouse monocyte/macrophage cell-line J774A.1 and in reconstructed skin tissue models. We also compared the R4G extract to commercial carrot extracts in terms of stability and metabolomic profiles. We found that the R4G extract have potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, protecting mammalian cells from the oxidative stress triggered by exposure to bacterial lipopolysaccharides and H₂O₂. The extract also inhibited the nuclear translocation of NF-κB in an epidermal skin model, and induced the expression of VEGF-A to promote the microcirculation in a dermal microtissue model. The anthocyanins extracted from R4G cells were significantly more stable than those found in natural red carrot extracts. Finally, we showed that R4G extract has similar metabolomic profile of natural extracts by using a combination of targeted and untargeted metabolomics analysis, demonstrating the safety of R4G carrot cells for applications in the nutraceutical and food/feed industries.

Antiphotoaging Effect of 3,5-Dicaffeoyl-epi-quinic Acid against UVA-Induced Skin Damage by Protecting Human Dermal Fibroblasts In Vitro

Cutaneous aging is divided into intrinsic and exogenous aging correspondingly contributing to the complex biological phenomenon in skin. Intrinsic aging is also termed chronological aging, which is the accumulation of inevitable changes over time and is largely genetically determined. Superimposed on this intrinsic process, exogenous aging is associated with environmental exposure, mainly to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and more commonly termed as photoaging. UV-induced skin aging induces increased expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) which in turn causes the collagen degradation. Therefore, MMP inhibitors of natural origin are regarded as a primary approach to prevent or treat photoaging. This study investigated the effects of 3,5-dicaffeoyl-epi-quinic acid (DEQA) on photoaging and elucidated its molecular mechanisms in UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). The results show that treatment with DEQA decreases MMP-1 production and increases type I collagen production in UVA-damaged HDFs. In addition, treatment of UVA-irradiated HDFs with DEQA downregulates MMP-1, MMP-3 and MMP-9 expression via blocking MAPK-cascade-regulated AP-1 transcriptional activity in UVA-irradiated HDFs. Furthermore, DEQA relieves the UVA-mediated suppression of type I procollagen and collagen expression through stimulating TGF-β/Smad signaling, leading to activation of the Smad 2/3 and Smad 4 nuclear translocation. These results suggest that DEQA could be a potential cosmetic agent for prevention and treatment of skin photoaging.

Exploring the Applications of the Photoprotective Properties of Anthocyanins in Biological Systems

Due to their physical and chemical characteristics, anthocyanins are amongst the most versatile groups of natural compounds. Such unique signature makes these compounds a focus in several different areas of research. Anthocyanins have well been reported as bioactive compounds in a myriad of health disorders such as cardiovascular diseases, cancer, and obesity, among others, due to their anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-diabetic, anti-bacterial, and anti-proliferative capacities. Such a vast number of action mechanisms may be also due to the number of structurally different anthocyanins plus their related derivatives. In this review, we highlight the recent advances on the potential use of anthocyanins in biological systems with particular focus on their photoprotective properties. Topics such as skin aging and eye degenerative diseases, highly influenced by light, and the action of anthocyanins against such damages will be discussed. Photodynamic Therapy and the potential role of anthocyanins as novel photosensitizers will be also a central theme of this review.

Topical Application of Aronia melanocarpa Extract Rich in Chlorogenic Acid and Rutin Reduces UVB-Induced Skin Damage via Attenuating Collagen Disruption in Mice

Aronia melanocarpa, a black chokeberry, contains high levels of phenolic acids and polyphenolic flavonoids and displays antioxidative and anti-inflammatory effects. Through high-performance liquid chromatography for extracts from Aronia melanocarpa, we discovered that the extract contained chlorogenic acid and rutin as major ingredients. In this study, we examined the protective effects of the extract against ultraviolet B- (UVB)-induced photodamage in the dorsal skin of institute of cancer research (ICR) mice. Their dorsal skin was exposed to UVB, thereafter; the extract was topically applied once a day for seven days. Photoprotective properties of the extract in the dorsal skin were investigated by clinical skin severity score for skin injury, hematoxylin and eosin staining for histopathology, Masson's trichrome staining for collagens. In addition, we examined change in collagen type I and III, and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and MMP-3 by immunohistochemistry. In the UVB-exposed mice treated with the extract, UVB-induced epidermal damage was significantly ameliorated, showing that epidermal thickness was moderated. In these mice, immunoreactivities of collagen type I and III were significantly increased, whereas immunoreactivities of MMP-1 and 3 were significantly decreased compared with those in the UVB-exposed mice. These results indicate that treatment with Aronia melanocarpa extract attenuates UV-induced photodamage by attenuating UVB-induced collagen disruption: these findings might be a result of the chlorogenic acid and rutin contained in the extract. Based on the current results, we suggest that Aronia melanocarpa can be a useful material for developing photoprotective adjuvant.

AQP5 regulates the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal stem cells in skin aging

The epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin, is the first barrier that comes into contact with the external environment. It plays an important role in resisting the invasion of harmful substances and microbial infections. The skin changes with age and external environmental factors. This study aimed to investigate epidermal stem cells during the process of aging. This study enrolled 9 volunteers with benign pigmented nevus for clinical dermatologic surgery. The phenotypes associated with skin aging changes such as skin wrinkles and elasticity of the unexposed/healthy parts near benign pigmented skin were measured, and epidermal stem cells from this region were isolated for transcriptome sequencing. The results showed that epidermal stem cells could be obtained by magnetic activated cell sorting (MACS) with high purity. Results of the transcriptome sequencing revealed that aquaporin (AQP)5 significantly decreased in the epidermal stem cells with age, and further functional experiments revealed that AQP5 could promote the proliferation and dedifferentiation of HaCaT, but did not influence cell apoptosis. In summary, AQP5 regulated the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal stem cells in skin aging, and it may play an important role in the balance of proliferation and differentiation. However, further studies are needed to determine the mechanism by which AQP5 regulates the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal skin cells in aging.

Role of proteoglycans on skin ageing: a review

This work analyses the role of proteoglycans on skin ageing, influenced by the presence of glycosylated proteins, which exercise diverse functions on the skin. They are essential components that restore the cells, providing hydration, maintaining hydration of the extracellular matrix, preventing the formation of wrinkles thanks to their ability to combine to other molecules such as collagen or hyaluronic acid and favouring the smoothness of the skin texture. The use of these proteins is a very recent and promising topic, since their application may revolutionize skin ageing therapies. Of the existing proteoglycans, decorin, versican and perlecan are of special note, playing a fundamental role on skin.

Cosmeceutical potentials of Curcuma mangga Val. extract in human BJ fibroblasts against MMP1, MMP3, and MMP13

Oxidative stress, the disrupted oxidation-reduction mechanism in our body, is caused by the excessive exposure of free radicals and the impaired antioxidant defenses that can accelerate skin aging. Antioxidants can be obtained from nature, which are available widely in therapeutic-rich plants, such as white saffron (Curcuma mangga Val., denoted as C. mangga). Although many pieces of evidence reveal that C. mangga contains an abundance of phenolic compounds and has antioxidative effects, its cosmeceutical potentials remain unclear. The present study aimed to disclose the unexplored antiaging potentials of C. mangga extract (CME) in oxidative stress-induced human BJ fibroblasts with a focus on collagen protection against pro-inflammatory mediators MMP1, MMP3, and MMP13. The oxidative stress-induced cells were treated with CME and curcumin at different doses. The results showed that treatment using CME (25 μg/mL) could maintain the collagen contents up to 18.45 ± 0.68 μg/mL in H2O2-treated fibroblasts (only ~26.63% reduction in collagen contents), while the figure for the negative control was the lowest (12.79 μg/mL), showing a significant reduction in collagen contents by 49.13%. In addition, the gene expression of pro-inflammatory MMPs arose significantly in BJ fibroblasts after oxidative stress induction using 200 μM H2O2, in which the expression for MMP1, MMP3, and MMP13 increased by 7.10, 38.96, and 2.69 times, respectively. Interestingly, CME treatment (100 μg/mL) could effectively inhibit MMP1, MMP3, and MMP13 gene expression by 3.65, 34.62, and 2.02 times, respectively. In conclusion, CME showed favorable antiaging activities in H2O2-treated human BJ fibroblasts as confirmed by the low levels of gene expression of MPP1, MMP3, and MMP13 after treatment with CME.

Pharmacological and Cosmeceutical Potential of Seaweed Beach-Casts of Macaronesia

Seaweed beach-casts are a seasonal phenomenon that regularly deposits tons of algae biomass on beaches, which are usually disposed of in landfills. The present work aimed to contribute to the valorization of this biomass by studying bioactivities that reveal its potential in the pharmaceutical and/or cosmeceutical industries. Methanol and ethanol extracts and fractions from 15 beach-casts biomass were tested for a range of bioactivities. Eight of the most active samples exhibit IC50 values between 11.38 µg/mL and 19.28 µg/mL and selectivity indexes higher than 3.8, against NCI-H1299 (lung cancer) and T47D (breast cancer). Concerning antiaging potential, all the extracts tested presented UV protection, with SPF values above 30, like the standard sunscreen. Regarding aging-related enzymes, 24 samples were tyrosinase inhibitors exhibiting IC50 values from 9.01 µg/mL to 200.09 µg/mL. Eight extracts inhibited collagenase (IC50 < 248.76 µg/mL), two of them more actively than positive control EDTA (IC50 = 59.26 µg/mL). In addition to UV protection, the cumulative effect of antityrosinase and anticollagenase activities shown by the samples suggest that they may play a significant role in preventing skin photoaging. The results obtained demonstrate the high potential of beach-cast seaweed biomass as sources of cosmetic bioproducts with antiaging effects, and of selective cytotoxic metabolites.

Potential anti-ageing effect of chondroitin sulphate through skin regeneration

OBJECTIVE

Skin ageing is inevitably exposed through its typical features such as wrinkles and sagging. Therefore, skin anti-ageing is a major issue in cosmetic research to prevent and improve ageing symptoms using effective ingredients. Chondroitin sulphate (CS), a type of glycosaminoglycan, is an important structural component of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and is involved in various biological processes, such as cell proliferation, differentiation and migration. Here, we aimed to investigate the effects of CS on skin regeneration and examine its efficacy as a potential safe and effective skin anti-ageing ingredient.

METHODS

We investigated the effects of CS on cell proliferation in normal human keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Then, cell migration, ECM synthesis and related signalling pathways were examined in fibroblasts through gene and protein expression analysis. Finally, the effect on skin wound healing and regeneration was validated using a full-thickness skin wound model and an aged skin model.

RESULTS

Chondroitin sulphate treatment increased the proliferation of keratinocytes and fibroblasts. It also stimulated the migration and synthesis of ECM components of fibroblasts. Further analysis revealed that CS induced the expression of type I procollagen by activating the extracellular signal-regulated kinase pathway. Using a full-thickness skin wound model and an aged skin model, we confirmed that CS treatment promoted skin wound healing and regeneration.

CONCLUSION

Together, our results indicated that CS has the potential to facilitate skin regeneration, implying that CS could be clinically applied to improve skin ageing.

Medaka (Oryzias latipes) Embryo as a Model for the Screening of Compounds That Counteract the Damage Induced by Ultraviolet and High-Energy Visible Light

Continuous overexposure to sunlight increases its harmful effects on the skin. For this reason, there is a growing need to characterize economic models more representative of the negative effects and counteracting responses that irradiation causes on human skin. These models will serve for the screening of protective compounds against damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) and high energy visible light (HEV). Therefore, two common in vitro models employed for sunlight irradiation studies, namely human keratinocyte HaCat culture and reconstructed human epidermis (RHE), were compared with the medaka fish embryo model, traditionally used in other scientific disciplines. Using suberythemal doses of UVA and HEV to determine the level of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) generation and thymine dimers formed by UVB, we show that medaka embryo responds with a lower damage level, more comparable to human skin, than the other two models, probably due to the protective mechanisms that work in a complete organism. In the same way, the protective effects of antioxidant compounds have the greatest effect on medaka embryos. Taken together, these findings suggest that medaka embryos would be a good alternative in vitro model for sunlight effect studies, and for the screening of molecules with counteracting capacity against the damage caused by UV and HEV.

Traditional fermented foods with anti-aging effect: A concentric review

Fermentation has been applied since antiquity as a way to preserve foodstuff or as a necessary step in the production of a variety of products. The research was initially focused on accurate description of production procedure and identification of parameters that may affect the composition and dynamics of the developing micro-communities, since the major aim was standardization and commercial exploitation of the products. Soon it was realized that consumption of these products was associated with an array of health benefits, such as anti-hypertensive, anti-inflammatory, anti-diabetic, anti-carcinogenic and anti-allergenic activities. These were credited to the microorganisms present in the fermented products as well as their metabolic activities and the bio-transformations that took place during the fermentation process. Aging has been defined as a gradual decline in the physiological function and concomitantly homeostasis, which is experienced by all living beings over time, leading inevitably to age-associated injuries, diseases, and finally death. Research has focused on effective strategies to delay this process and thus increase both lifespan and well-being. Fermented food products seem to be a promising alternative due to the immunomodulatory effect of microorganisms and elevated amounts of bioactive compounds. Indeed, a series of anti-aging related benefits have been reported, some of which have been attributed to specific compounds such as genistein and daidzein in soybeans, while others are yet to be discovered. The present article aims to collect and critically discuss all available literature regarding the anti-aging properties of fermented food products.

So Uncommon and so Singular, but Underexplored: An Updated Overview on Ethnobotanical Uses, Biological Properties and Phytoconstituents of Sardinian Endemic Plants

The last decades have recorded an increase of plant-based drug discovery processes. Indeed, natural products possess a superior chemical diversity as compared to synthetic ones, leading to a renewal in searching for new therapeutic agents from the plant kingdom. In particular, since the structural variety of natural compounds reflects the biodiversity of their source organisms, regions of the world with high biodiversity and endemism deserve particular interest. In this context, Sardinia Island (Italy), with 290 endemic taxa (12% of the total flora), is expected to provide unique and structurally diverse phytochemicals for drug development. Several research groups built up a large program dedicated to the analysis of Sardinian endemic species, highlighting their peculiar features, both in respect of phytochemical and biological profiles. On this basis, the aim of this review is to provide an up-to-date and comprehensive overview on ethnobotanical uses, biological properties and phytoconstituents of Sardinian endemic plants in order to support their beneficial potential and to provide input for future investigations. We documented 152 articles published from 1965 to June 2020 in which a broad range of biological activities and the identification of previously undescribed compounds have been reported, supporting their great value as sources of therapeutic agents.

Improvement of wrinkles and skin tightening using TriPollar® radiofrequency with Dynamic Muscle Activation (DMA™)

BACKGROUND

Radiofrequency (RF) energy promotes skin renewal by inducing tissue remodeling through dermal heating and neocollagenesis.

AIM

To evaluate the safety and effectiveness of a medical esthetic system that combines simultaneously TriPollar® RF energy with Dynamic Muscle Activation (DMA™) for improving facial skin tightness and wrinkles.

METHODS

A prospective, open-label study. Eleven subjects (mean age, 43 years; Fitzpatrick skin type II-IV) with Fitzpatrick Elastosis Scale (FES) score 3-6 were treated. The participants underwent six weekly treatments. Effectiveness of the treatments was evaluated at 1 and 3 months follow-ups after the last treatment, using the FES and evaluator- and subject-rated Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS). Treatment safety and tolerance were evaluated as well. Pain was evaluated on a visual analog scale (VAS) of 0-10.

RESULTS

Treatment was safe, with minimal pain (VAS score less than 1), no adverse events, and no downtime. At 1 and 3 months follow-up evaluation, mean physician-rated FES statistically significantly improved from baseline (4.63 ± 0.88) by 2.27 ± 0.45 for both time points (P < .0001). According to investigator GAI scale at 3 months follow-up evaluations, 81.8% of patients were improved and 18.2% were much improved in fine lines, wrinkles and skin tightness.

CONCLUSIONS

Treatment with RF TriPollar® combined with DMA™ is effective and well-tolerated treatment for improving skin tightness and reducing wrinkles.

Purple tulip extract improves signs of skin aging through dermal structural modulation as shown by genomic, protein expression and skin appearance of volunteers studied

BACKGROUND

Purple tulip extract is a rich source of flavonoids which are powerful antioxidants and can hence be considered as an ideal candidate for use in skin care products.

AIMS

We aimed to evaluate the effects of purple tulip extract on skin quality and to determine its molecular modes of interaction.

METHODS

A pangenomic study on human skin fibroblasts was carried out to analyze multiple changes in gene expression. Ex vivo studies of human skin explants exposed to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation or H₂ O₂ were performed to assess modulations of protein expression. Finally, a clinical assay was carried out to evaluate the efficacy of purple tulip extract on skin appearance and condition of aged women.

RESULTS

Genetic modulation analyses led us to infer the induction of many biological functions including cell differentiation, proliferation, migration, inflammatory responses, and matrix remodeling. The ex vivo studies revealed an enhancement of the collagen network and increased expression of glycosaminoglycans (GAG), fibronectin, and collagen VI. Finally, the clinical study highlighted the potential anti-aging properties of the purple tulip extract which decreased the relaxation of the oval face and improved skin elasticity after 28 days of treatment. Significant reductions of the length and depth of the nasolabial wrinkles were also observed.

CONCLUSION

Our genomics data on the effect of purple tulip extract on the ex vivo UV-challenged skin showed that genes responsible for, among others, the upkeep of the skin, such as collagen induction, immune cell proliferation, and epidermal repair, were all up-regulated. More importantly, the clinical study corroborated these data by the visible and measurable effects of the topical purple tulip extract on the aged skin of 22 women, further demonstrating the beneficial impact of the extract on aged skin.

Marine-Derived Polymers in Ionic Liquids: Architectures Development and Biomedical Applications

Marine resources have considerable potential to develop high-value materials for applications in different fields, namely pharmaceutical, environmental, and biomedical. Despite that, the lack of solubility of marine-derived polymers in water and common organic solvents could restrict their applications. In the last years, ionic liquids (ILs) have emerged as platforms able to overcome those drawbacks, opening many routes to enlarge the use of marine-derived polymers as biomaterials, among other applications. From this perspective, ILs can be used as an efficient extraction media for polysaccharides from marine microalgae and wastes (e.g., crab shells, squid, and skeletons) or as solvents to process them in different shapes, such as films, hydrogels, nano/microparticles, and scaffolds. The resulting architectures can be applied in wound repair, bone regeneration, or gene and drug delivery systems. This review is focused on the recent research on the applications of ILs as processing platforms of biomaterials derived from marine polymers.

Cytoprotective effects of a proprietary red maple leaf extract and its major polyphenol, ginnalin A, against hydrogen peroxide and methylglyoxal induced oxidative stress in human keratinocytes

Phytochemicals from functional foods are common ingredients in dietary supplements and cosmetic products for anti-skin aging effects due to their antioxidant activities. A proprietary red maple (Acer rubrum) leaf extract (Maplifa™) and its major phenolic compound, ginnalin A (GA), have been reported to show antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, and anti-glycation effects but their protective effects against oxidative stress in human skin cells remain unknown. Herein, we investigated the cytoprotective effects of Maplifa™ and GA against hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and methylglyoxal (MGO)-induced oxidative stress in human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells). H2O2 and MGO (both at 400 μM) induced toxicity in HaCaT cells and reduced their viability to 59.2 and 61.6%, respectively. Treatment of Maplifa™ (50 μg mL-1) and GA (50 μM) increased the viability of H2O2- and MGO-treated cells by 22.0 and 15.5%, respectively. Maplifa™ and GA also showed cytoprotective effects by reducing H2O2-induced apoptosis in HaCaT cells by 8.0 and 7.2%, respectively. The anti-apoptotic effect of Maplifa™ was further supported by the decreased levels of apoptosis associated enzymes including caspases-3/7 and -8 in HaCaT cells by 49.5 and 19.0%, respectively. In addition, Maplifa™ (50 μg mL-1) and GA (50 μM) reduced H2O2- and MGO-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) by 84.1 and 56.8%, respectively. Furthermore, flow cytometry analysis showed that Maplifa™ and GA reduced MGO-induced total cellular ROS production while increasing mitochondria-derived ROS production in HaCaT cells. The cytoprotective effects of Maplifa™ and GA in human keratinocytes support their potential utilization for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications.

Depiction of ethnic facial aging by forensic artists and preliminary assessment of the applicability of facial averages

Many characteristics of facial aging are common to all. The age of their onset and which characteristics tend to predominate varies among individuals depending on many factors including their genetic makeup, life experiences, environment in which they live, and the regional, ethnic, or socially perceived group to which they belong. Forensic artists are often asked to provide sketches, 2D or 3D digital renderings, or sculptures representative of how an individual may appear at an older age based on a provided photograph, victim or witness description, and/or cranial remains. The challenge escalates when the subject is a member of a regional, ethnic, or other socially perceived group to which the artist has had little or no exposure. We describe aspects of adult facial aging that are of particular relevance to the forensic artist, applicable software tools, and pertinent facial databases, especially those emphasizing non-white populations. We demonstrate that facial averaging offers two key advantages to the artistic portrayal of facial aging: first, the technique requires relatively small reference databases from groups that may present logistical challenges to collect and second, that a facial average provides a useful representation of the gestalt of the age and ethnicity cohort to which a subject belongs. The artist may use an average along with other available information such as photo reference books, eyewitness descriptions, photos of immediate family members, and cranial structure to guide production of a facial composite drawing, digital age progression, or sculpture of the subject in question.

Galactose-Induced Skin Aging: The Role of Oxidative Stress

Skin aging has been associated with a higher dietary intake of carbohydrates, particularly glucose and galactose. In fact, the carbohydrates are capable of damaging the skin's vital components through nonenzymatic glycation, the covalent attachment of sugar to a protein, and subsequent production of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). This review is focused on the role of D-galactose in the development of skin aging and its relation to oxidative stress. The interest in this problem was dictated by recent findings that used in vitro and in vivo models. The review highlights the recent advances in the underlying molecular mechanisms of D-galactose-mediated cell senescence and cytotoxicity. We have also proposed the possible impact of galactosemia on skin aging and its clinical relevance. The understanding of molecular mechanisms of skin aging mediated by D-galactose can help dermatologists optimize methods for prevention and treatment of skin senescence and aging-related skin diseases.

Andrographis paniculata and Its Bioactive Diterpenoids Against Inflammation and Oxidative Stress in Keratinocytes

Andrographis paniculata was widely used in traditional herbal medicine to treat various diseases. This study explored the potential anti-aging activity of Andrographis paniculata in cutaneous cells. Human, adult, low calcium, high temperature (HaCaT) cells were treated with methanolic extract (ME), andrographolide (ANDRO), neoandrographolide (NEO), 14-deoxyandrographolide (14DAP) and 14-deoxy-11,12-didehydroandrographolide (14DAP11-12). Oxidative stress and inflammation were induced by hydrogen peroxide and lipopolysaccharide/TNF-α, respectively. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) production was measured by fluorescence using a 2',7'-dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCFH-DA) probe and cytokines were quantified by ELISA for interleukin-8 (IL-8) or reverse transcription-quantitative polymerase chain reaction (RT-qPCR) for tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α). Hyaluronic acid (HA) secretion was determined by an ELISA. Our results show a decrease in ROS production and TNF-α expression by ME (5 µg/mL) in HaCaT under pro-oxidant and pro-inflammatory conditions, respectively. ME protected HaCaT against oxidative stress and inflammation. Our findings confirm that ME can be used for the development of bioactive compounds against epidermal damage.

Efficacy, Stability, and Safety Evaluation of New Polyphenolic Xanthones Towards Identification of Bioactive Compounds to Fight Skin Photoaging

Antioxidants have long been used in the cosmetic industry to prevent skin photoaging, which is mediated by oxidative stress, making the search for new antioxidant compounds highly desirable in this field. Naturally occurring xanthones are polyphenolic compounds that can be found in microorganisms, fungi, lichens, and some higher plants. This class of polyphenols has a privileged scaffold that grants them several biological activities. We have previously identified simple oxygenated xanthones as promising antioxidants and disclosed as hit, 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1). Herein, we synthesized and studied the potential of xanthones with different polyoxygenated patterns as skin antiphotoaging ingredients. In the DPPH antioxidant assay, two newly synthesized derivatives showed IC₅₀ values in the same range as ascorbic acid. The synthesized xanthones were discovered to be excellent tyrosinase inhibitors and weak to moderate collagenase and elastase inhibitors but no activity was revealed against hyaluronidase. Their metal-chelating effect (FeCl₃ and CuCl₂) as well as their stability at different pH values were characterized to understand their potential to be used as future cosmetic active agents. Among the synthesized polyoxygenated xanthones, 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1) was reinforced as the most promising, exhibiting a dual ability to protect the skin against UV damage by combining antioxidant/metal-chelating properties with UV-filter capacity and revealed to be more stable in the pH range that is close to the pH of the skin. Lastly, the phototoxicity of 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1) was evaluated in a human keratinocyte cell line and no phototoxicity was observed in the concentration range tested.

Computational strategies towards developing novel antimelanogenic agents

AIMS

Extrinsic ageing or photoageing relates to the onset of age-linked phenotypes such as skin hyperpigmentation due to UV exposure. UV induced upregulated production of tyrosinase enzyme, which catalyses the vital biochemical reactions of melanin synthesis is responsible for the inception of skin hyperpigmentation. We aimed to generate a validated QSAR model with a dataset consisting of 69 thio-semicarbazone derivatives to elucidate the physicochemical properties of compounds essential for tyrosinase inhibition and to identify novel lead molecules with enhanced tyrosinase inhibitory activity and bioavailability.

MAIN METHODS

Lead optimization and insilico approaches were employed in this research work. QSAR model was generated and validated by exploiting Multiple Linear Regression method. Prioritization of lead-like compounds was accomplished by performing multi parameter optimization depleting molecular docking, bioavailability assessments and toxicity prediction for 69 compounds Derivatives of best lead compound were retrieved from chemical spaces.

KEY FINDINGS

Molecular descriptors explicated the significance of chemical properties essential for chelation of copper ions present in the active site of tyrosinase protein target. Further, derivatives which comprise of electron donating groups in their chemical structure were predicted and analysed for tyrosinase inhibitory activity by employing insilico methodologies including chemical space exploration.

SIGNIFICANCE

Our research work resulted in the generation of a validated QSAR model with higher degree of external predictive ability and significance to tyrosinase inhibitory activity. We propose 11 novel derivative compounds with enhanced tyrosinase inhibitory activity and bioavailability.

Marine-Derived Compounds with Potential Use as Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

The cosmetic industry is among the fastest growing industries in the last decade. As the beauty concepts have been revolutionized, many terms have been coined to accompany the innovation of this industry, since the beauty products are not just confined to those that are applied to protect and enhance the appearance of the human body. Consequently, the terms such as cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics have emerged to give a notion of the health benefits of the products that create the beauty from inside to outside. In the past years, natural products-based cosmeceuticals have gained a huge amount of attention not only from researchers but also from the public due to the general belief that they are harmless. Notably, in recent years, the demand for cosmeceuticals from the marine resources has been exponentially on the rise due to their unique chemical and biological properties that are not found in terrestrial resources. Therefore, the present review addresses the importance of marine-derived compounds, stressing new chemical entities with cosmeceutical potential from the marine natural resources and their mechanisms of action by which these compounds exert on the body functions as well as their related health benefits. Marine environments are the most important reservoir of biodiversity that provide biologically active substances whose potential is still to be discovered for application as pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Marine organisms are not only an important renewable source of valuable bulk compounds used in cosmetic industry such as agar and carrageenan, which are used as gelling and thickening agents to increase the viscosity of cosmetic formulations, but also of small molecules such as ectoine (to promote skin hydration), trichodin A (to prevent product alteration caused by microbial contamination), and mytiloxanthin (as a coloring agent). Marine-derived molecules can also function as active ingredients, being the main compounds that determine the function of cosmeceuticals such as anti-tyrosinase (kojic acid), antiacne (sargafuran), whitening (chrysophanol), UV protection (scytonemin, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)), antioxidants, and anti-wrinkle (astaxanthin and PUFAs).

Oral Intake of Hydrangea serrata (Thunb.) Ser. Leaves Extract Improves Wrinkles, Hydration, Elasticity, Texture, and Roughness in Human Skin: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study

Previously, we reported that the hot water extract of Hydrangea serrata leaves (WHS) and its active component, hydrangenol, possess in vitro and in vivo effects on skin wrinkles and moisturization. We conducted a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial to clinically evaluate the effect of WHS on human skin. Participants (n = 151) were randomly assigned to receive either WHS 300 mg, WHS 600 mg, or placebo, once daily for 12 weeks. Skin wrinkle, hydration, elasticity, texture, and roughness parameters were assessed at baseline and after 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Compared to the placebo, skin wrinkles were significantly reduced in both WHS groups after 8 and 12 weeks. In both WHS groups, five parameters (R1-R5) of skin wrinkles significantly improved and skin hydration was significantly enhanced when compared to the placebo group after 12 weeks. Compared with the placebo, three parameters of skin elasticity, including overall elasticity (R2), net elasticity (R5), and ratio of elastic recovery to total deformation (R7), improved after 12 weeks of oral WHS (600 mg) administration. Changes in skin texture and roughness were significantly reduced in both WHS groups. No WHS-related adverse reactions were reported. Hence, WHS could be used as a health supplement for skin anti-aging.

Andrographis Paniculata and Its Bioactive Diterpenoids Protect Dermal Fibroblasts Against Inflammation and Oxidative Stress

Andrographis paniculata (Burm.f.) has long been used in ayurvedic medicine through its anti-inflammatory properties. However, its protective effect of skin aging has not been studied in vitro. This study aimed to investigate the anti-aging effects of methanolic extract (ME), andrographolide (ANDRO), neoandrographolide (NEO), 14-deoxyandrographolide (14DAP) and 14-deoxy-11,12-didehydroandrographolide (14DAP11-12) on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa) under pro-oxidant or pro-inflammatory condition. The in vitro anti-aging capacity of ME, ANDRO, NEO, 14DAP, and 14DAP11-12 (1, 2.5 and 5 µg/mL) was performed in HDFa. Oxidative stress and inflammation were induced by hydrogen peroxide and lipopolysaccharide/TNF-α, respectively. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) production was measured by the fluorescence of DCF-DA probe and cytokines were quantified by ELISA (IL6 and IL8) or RTqPCR (TNF-α). Procollagen type I production was determined by an ELISA. Our results showed a decrease in ROS production with ME and 14DAP at 5 µg/mL and 1 µg/mL, respectively. Furthermore, IL-6 production and TNF-α expression decreased under ANDRO and ME at 5 µg/mL. Our data indicated that ME and 14DAP protect from oxidative stress. Additionally, ME and ANDRO decreased an inflammation marker, IL-6. This suggests their potential natural treatment against skin damage. Hence, their applications could be of interest in cosmetics for preventing skin ageing.

Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin

Background

Skin aging is characterized by slacking and loss of density, especially under ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure.

Objective

To investigate the beneficial effects of a combination containing bakuchiol (BK) and vanilla tahitensis extract (VTE) to prevent skin photoaging in vitro and to improve clinical outcomes for naturally aged skin.

Materials and Methods

Human dermal fibroblasts were treated with active compounds, exposed to an acute dose of UVA and analyzed by confocal microscopy: actin network for morphology, interleukin-8 (IL-8) for inflammation and p16 for senescence. Human skin was used to evaluate chronic UVA-induced glycosaminoglycan (GAG) loss and to assess the benefit of topical application of a BK+VTE serum (Alcian blue staining). An open-label clinical trial was conducted in women applying the serum twice daily for 56 days (n=43). Skin remodeling was assessed by FaceScan^®. Firmness was evaluated through Dynaskin^® and clinical scoring. Skin radiance was also rated on standardized full-face photographs.

Results

UVA induced a significant increase in IL-8 and p16 expression and marked morphological changes in fibroblasts. Treatment with BK or VTE alone prevented both actin network alteration and IL-8 upregulation. Interestingly, BK+VTE demonstrated synergistic protection against IL-8 and p16 overexpression. Serum application prevented GAG loss at the dermo-epidermal junction and increased dermal GAG in UVA-exposed skin explants. In the clinical trial, face ptosis was reduced by 11% on average for 26 responsive subjects and up to 23%. Depth of skin deformation was also reduced by 24% on average for 30 responsive subjects and up to 30%. This firming effect was confirmed by clinical scoring. Radiance was significantly improved by 29% on average for 33 responsive subjects. The serum demonstrated good tolerance/safety.

Conclusion

BK+VTE combination demonstrated anti-aging efficacy and might provide a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women, through their synergistic effect on inflammaging and senescence.

Biomarkers, oxidative stress and autophagy in skin aging

Aging is a major cause of many degenerative diseases. The most intuitive consequence of aging is mainly manifested on the skin, resulting in cumulative changes in skin structure, function and appearance, such as increased wrinkles, laxity, elastosis, telangiectasia, and aberrant pigmentation of the skin. Unlike other organs of the human body, skin is not only inevitably affected by the intrinsic aging process, but also affected by various extrinsic environmental factors to accelerate aging, especially ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Skin aging is a highly complex and not fully understood process, and the lack of universal biomarkers for the definitive detection and evaluation of aging is also a major research challenge. Oxidative stress induced by the accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) can lead to lipid, protein, nucleic acid and organelle damage, thus leading to the occurrence of cellular senescence, which is one of the core mechanisms mediating skin aging. Autophagy can maintain cellular homeostasis when faced with different stress conditions and is one of the survival mechanisms of cell resistance to intrinsic and extrinsic stress. Autophagy and aging have many features in common and may be associated with skin aging mediated by different factors. Here, we summarize the changes and biomarkers of skin aging, and discuss the effects of oxidative stress and autophagy on skin aging.

Aging - Oxidative stress, antioxidants and computational modeling

Aging is a degenerative, biological, time-dependent, universally conserved process thus designed as one of the highest known risk factors for morbidity and mortality. Every individual has its own aging mechanisms as both environmental conditions (75%) and genetics (25%) account for aging. Several theories have been proposed until now but not even a single theory solves this mystery. There are still some queries un-answered to the scientific community regarding mechanisms behind aging. However, oxidative stress theory (OST) is considered one of the famous theories that sees mitochondria as one of the leading organelles which largely contribute to the aging process. Many reactive oxygen species (ROS) are produced endogenously and exogenously that are associated with aging. But the mitochondrial ROS contribute largely to the aging process as mitochondrial dysfunction due to oxidative stress is considered one of the contributors toward aging. Although ROS is known to damage cell machinery, new evidence suggests their role in signal transduction to regulate biological and physiological processes. Moreover, besides mitochondria, other important cell organelles such as peroxisome and endoplasmic reticulum also produce ROS that contribute to aging. However, nature has provided humans with free radical scavengers called antioxidants that protect from harmful effects of ROS. Future predictions regarding aging, biochemical mechanisms involved, biomarkers internal and external factors can be easily done with machine learning algorithms and other computational models. This review explains important aspects of aging, the contribution of ROS producing organelles in aging, importance of antioxidants fighting against ROS, different computational models developed to understand the complexities of the aging.

Oxidative contribution of air pollution to extrinsic skin ageing

•Epidemiological evidence links exposure to poor air quality to lentigines and wrinkles. •Experimental studies provide mechanistic explanations involving oxidative stress. •Polluted air may hasten skin ageing through indirect systemic effects via the lung and/or direct effects on cutaneous tissue. •Prevention measures would need to combine strategies that target both ‘routes’. •Air pollution is one of several environmental stressors that combined, may have additive/synergistic effects on the skin.

Ulva intestinalis Protein Extracts Promote In Vitro Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid Production by Human Dermal Fibroblasts

With the increase in life expectancy, reducing the visible signs of skin aging has become a major issue. A reduction in collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis by fibroblasts is a feature of skin aging. The green seaweed, Ulva intestinalis, is an abundant and rich source of nutrients, especially proteins and peptides. The aim of this study was to assess the potential cosmetic properties of a protein fraction from Ulva intestinalis (PROT-1) containing 51% of proteins and 22% of polysaccharides, and its enzymatic peptide hydrolysates on human dermal fibroblasts. PROT-1 was extracted using a patented acid- and solvent-free process (FR2998894 (B1)). The biochemical characterization and chromatographic analysis showed a main set of proteins (25 kDa). To demonstrate the anti-aging potential of PROT-1, fibroblast proliferation and collagen and hyaluronic acid production were assessed on fibroblast cell lines from donors aged 20 years (CCD-1059Sk) and 46 years (CCD-1090Sk). PROT-1 induced a significant increase in collagen and hyaluronic acid production per cell, and a reduction in cell proliferation without increasing cell mortality. These effects were reversed after protein hydrolysis of PROT-1, showing the central role of proteins in this promising anti-aging property.

Antiaging Activity of Peptide Identified from Fermented Trapa Japonica Fruit Extract in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

We have previously shown that Trapa japonica fruit extract (TJE) as well as its fermented extract (FTJ) can be potentially used to treat alopecia. In the current study, a newly synthesized peptide (PEP) was detected in an active compound isolated from FTJ. Several biological assays were conducted to verify the antiaging effects of TJE, FTJ, and PEP on the skin. We examined the effects of TJE, FTJ, and PEP on cell viability, collagen synthesis, and inhibition of mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), induced by tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α), in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). In addition, a wound-healing assay of the human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) and a clinical study of antiaging activity were conducted. The findings confirmed that PEP exerted an effect on cell proliferation in a dose-dependent manner. Treatment with TJE, FTJ, and PEP increased collagen synthesis but inhibited TNF-α-induced mRNA expression of MMPs. Compared with TJE and FTJ, PEP promoted a significant level of wound recovery in HaCaT cells and also exhibited antiaging effect, as demonstrated by a clinical study. These results suggest that PEP shows potential as a skin antiaging cosmetic product.

Topical Application of Exosomes Derived from Human Umbilical Cord Mesenchymal Stem Cells in Combination with Sponge Spicules for Treatment of Photoaging

Purpose

The topical application of exosomes secreted by mesenchymal stem cells (MSC-Exos) on the skin is a very new and interesting topic in the medical field. In this study, we aimed to investigate whether marine sponge Haliclona sp. spicules (SHSs) could effectively enhance the skin delivery of human umbilical cord-derived MSC-Exos (hucMSC-Exos), and further evaluate the topical application of hucMSC-Exos combined with SHSs in rejuvenating photoaged mouse skin.

Materials and Methods

SHSs were isolated from the explants of sponge Haliclona sp. with our proprietary method, and hucMSC-Exos were prepared from the conditioned medium of hucMSCs using ultracentrifugation. The effects of SHSs on the skin penetration of fluorescently labeled hucMSC-Exos were determined using confocal microscopy in vitro (porcine skin) and in vivo (mouse skin). The therapeutic effects of hucMSC-Exos coupled with SHSs against UV-induced photoaging in mice were assessed by using microwrinkles analysis, pathohistological examination and real-time RT-PCR. We also tested the skin irritation caused by the combination of hucMSC-Exos and SHSs in guinea pigs.

Results

In vitro results showed that hucMSC-Exos could not readily penetrate through porcine skin by themselves. However, SHSs increased the skin absorption of exosomes by a factor of 5.87 through creating microchannels. Similar penetration enhancement of hucMSC-Exos was observed after SHSs treatment in mice. The combined use of hucMSC-Exos and SHSs showed significant anti-photoaging effects in mice, including reducing microwrinkles, alleviating histopathological changes, and promoting the expression of extracellular matrix constituents, whereas hucMSC-Exos alone produced considerably weaker effects. Skin irritation test showed that the combination of hucMSC-Exos and SHSs caused slight irritation, and the skin recovered shortly.

Conclusion

SHSs provide a safe and effective way to enhance the skin delivery of MSC-Exos. Moreover, the combination of MSC-Exos and SHSs may be of much use in the treatment of photoaging.

Chemical Constituents, Antioxidant, Anti-MMPs, and Anti-Hyaluronidase Activities of Thunbergia laurifolia Lindl. Leaf Extracts for Skin Aging and Skin Damage Prevention

This study aimed to investigate the potential usage of Thunbergia laurifolia Lindl. leaf extracts in the cosmetic industry. Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and hyaluronidase inhibition of T. laurifolia leaf extracts, prepared using reflux extraction with deionized water (RE) and 80% v/v ethanol using Soxhlet's apparatus (SE), were determined. Rosmarinic acid, phenolics, and flavonoids contents were determined using high-performance liquid chromatography, Folin-Ciocalteu, and aluminum chloride colorimetric assays, respectively. Antioxidant activities were determined by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and linoleic acid-thiocyanate assays. MMP-1 inhibition was investigated using enzymatic and fluorescent reactions, whereas MMP-2, MMP-9, and hyaluronidase inhibition were investigated using gel electrophoresis. Cytotoxicity on human fibroblast cell line was also investigated. The results demonstrated that SE contained significantly higher content of rosmarinic acid (5.62% ± 0.01%) and flavonoids (417 ± 25 mg of quercetin/g of extract) but RE contained a significantly higher phenolics content (181 ± 1 mg of gallic acid/g of extract; p < 0.001). SE possessed higher lipid peroxidation inhibition but less DPPH• scavenging activity than RE. Both extracts possessed comparable hyaluronidase inhibition. SE was as potent an MMP-1 inhibitor as gallic acid (half maximal inhibitory concentration values were 12.0 ± 0.3 and 8.9 ± 0.4 mg/cm3, respectively). SE showed significantly higher MMP-2 and MMP-9 inhibition than RE (p < 0.05). Therefore, SE is a promising natural anti-ageing ingredient rich in rosmarinic acid and flavonoids with antioxidant, anti-hyaluronidase, and potent MMPs inhibitory effects that could be applied in the cosmetic industry.

Development of Multifunctional Cosmetic Cream Using Bioactive Materials from Streptomyces sp. T65 with Synthesized Mesoporous Silica Particles SBA-15

Various cosmetics having a single function are increasingly being used, but cosmetics having multifunctional activities remain limited. We aimed to develop a multifunctional cosmetic cream having antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-aging and antimicrobial activities. Antimicrobial activities were performed by disc-diffusion method. Cell toxicity and cell proliferations were evaluated in a 96-well plate with different cell lines such as HaCaT, RAW264.7, CCD-986Sk, B16F1, and B16F10. Mushroom tyrosinase inhibition, elastase inhibition, and 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activities were evaluated and IC₅₀ was calculated. Mesoporous silica particle was synthesized using Pluronic P123 and tetraethyl ortho-silicate (TEOS). Facial pictures were captured by VISIA-CR (Facial Imaging System for Clinical Research). Roughness of image was analysed by PRIMOS software and brightness of image was analyzed by Chromameter CR-400. The crude product of strain T65 inhibited the different human pathogenic bacteria such as Bacillus subtilis, Escherichia coli, Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus epidermidis. The IC₅₀ of T65 crude product for mushroom tyrosinase, elastase, and DPPH radical scavenging activities were 58.73, 14.68, and 6.31 µg/mL, respectively. T65 crude product proliferated collagen type I in CCD-986Sk cell up to 145.91% ± 9.11% (mean ± SD; mean of 24, 48, and 72 h) at 250 pg/mL. Synthesized mesoporous particles (SBA-15) confirmed the sustainable performance by control-release for three days. Formulated functional cosmetic cream containing T65 embedded SBA-15, significantly decreased the skin roughness by 4.670% and increased the skin brightness by 0.472% after application of 4 weeks. T65 crude product inhibited both Gram-positive and Gram-negative pathogens. Synthesized mesoporous particle, SBA-15, confirmed the physiologically active substance was released in sustainable release condition. T65 crude product showed impeccable antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-aging, and whitening activities with non-cytotoxic effects to different cell lines related to the human skin.

Natural anti-aging skincare: role and potential

The deterioration of the skin morphology and physiology is the first and earliest obvious harbinger of the aging process which is progressively manifested with increasing age. Such deterioration affects the vital functions of the skin such as homeodynamic regulation of body temperature, fluid balance, loss of electrolytes and proteins, production of vitamin D, waste removal, immune surveillance, sensory perception, and protection of other organs against deleterious environmental factors. There are, however, harmful chemicals and toxins found in everyday cosmetics that consumers are now aware of. Thus, the natural beauty industry is on the rise with innovative technology and high-performance ingredients as more consumers demand healthier options. Therefore, the aims of this review are to give some critical insights to the effects of both intrinsic and extrinsic factors on excessive or premature skin aging and to elaborate on the relevance of natural beauty and natural anti-aging skincare approaches that will help consumers, scientists and entrepreneurs make the switch. Our recent investigations have shown the potential and relevance of identifying more resources from our rich natural heritage from various plant sources such as leaves, fruits, pomace, seeds, flowers, twigs and so on which can be explored for natural anti-aging skincare product formulations. These trending narratives have started to gain traction among researchers and consumers owing to the sustainability concern and impact of synthetic ingredients on human health and the environment. The natural anti-aging ingredients, which basically follow hormetic pathways, are potentially useful as moisturizing agents; barrier repair agents; antioxidants, vitamins, hydroxy acids, skin lightening agents, anti-inflammatory ingredients, and sunblock ingredients.

Effect of red ginseng NaturalGEL on skin aging

Background

In aged skin, degradation of collagen fibers, which occupy the majority of the extracellular matrix in the dermis, and changes of aquaporin 3 (AQP3) and skin constituents, such as hyaluronic acid and ceramide, cause wrinkles and decrease skin moisturization to contribute to dryness and lower elasticity skin. Red ginseng (RG) is used as a cosmetic and food material and is known to protect from UVB-induced cell death, increase skin hydration, prevent wrinkles, and have an antioxidative effect. But, in general, RG used as a material is the soluble liquid portion in the solvent, and the part that is not soluble in the solvent is discarded. Thus, we made the whole RG into microgranulation and dispersed in water to produce gel form for using entire RG, and it was named red ginseng NaturalGEL (RG NGEL).

Methods

RG NGEL was investigated for matrix metalloproteinases inhibitory activity, induction of Type I collagen, AQP3, hyaluronan synthetase 2, serine palmitoyl transferase, ceramide synthase 3, and filaggrin expression and compared with RG water extract.

Results

RG NGEL reduced the levels of UV-induced matrix metalloproteinases and increased Type I collagen in human fibroblast cells and upregulated AQP3, hyaluronan synthetase 2, serine palmitoyl transferase, ceramide synthase 3, and filaggrin expressions in human keratinocytes compared with RG water extract.

Conclusion

RG NGEL has the potential as an effective reagent for antiaging cosmetics to improve wrinkle formation and skin hydration.

Impaired Neovascularization in Aging

Significance: The skin undergoes an inevitable degeneration as an individual ages. As intrinsic and extrinsic factors degrade the structural integrity of the skin, it experiences a critical loss of function and homeostatic stability. Thus, aged skin becomes increasingly susceptible to injury and displays a prolonged healing process. Recent Advances: Several studies have found significant differences during wound healing between younger and older individuals. The hypoxia-inducible factor 1-alpha (HIF-1α) signaling pathway has recently been identified as a major player in wound healing. Hypoxia-inducible factors (HIFs) are pleiotropic key regulators of oxygen homeostasis. HIF-1α is essential to neovascularization through its regulation of cytokines, such as SDF-1α (stromal cell-derived factor 1-alpha) and has been shown to upregulate the expression of genes important for a hypoxic response. Prolyl hydroxylase domain proteins (PHDs) and factor inhibiting HIF effectively block HIF-1α signaling in normoxia through hydroxylation, preventing the signaling cascade from activating, leading to impaired tissue survival. Critical Issues: Aged wounds are a major clinical burden, resisting modern treatment and costing millions in health care each year. At the molecular level, aging has been shown to interfere with PHD regulation, which in turn prevents HIF-1α from activating gene expression, ultimately leading to impaired healing. Other studies have identified loss of function in cells during aging, impeding processes such as angiogenesis. Future Directions: An improved understanding of the regulation of molecular mediators, such as HIF-1α and PHD, will allow for manipulation of the various factors underlying delayed wound healing in the aged. The findings highlighted in this may facilitate the development of potential therapeutic approaches involved in the alteration of cellular dynamics and aging.

Evolution of the use of antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics

OBJECTIVE

Skin health and beauty are a cornerstone of general well-being in humans. Anti-ageing cosmetics are used to provide a healthy and youthful appearance. Among the different cosmetic actives, antioxidants are incorporated in anti-ageing products due to their beneficial effects in preventing and minimizing the signs of skin ageing. This work aims to understand how anti-ageing formulations changed in the past 7 years regarding pure antioxidants composition.

METHODS

Data were collected from anti-ageing formulations commercialized in main stores and pharmacies in the Portuguese market. The study started on 2011 and was updated with products launched or whose composition has been renewed on 2013, 2015 or 2018.

RESULTS

Ascorbic acid and tocopherol and their derivatives were consistently the most used antioxidants in anti-ageing formulations; followed by niacinamide and retinyl palmitate. Seven ascorbic acid derivatives are currently used in anti-ageing formulations while only three tocopherol derivatives were identified in this study. Several combinations of antioxidants were routinely found, mainly tocopherol (or tocopherol derivatives) with other antioxidants and tocopherol with tocopherol derivatives. We have not identified emerging antioxidants with great impact in anti-ageing formulations even though niacinamide and retinyl palmitate exhibited over 10% more usage in 2018.

CONCLUSION

This insight is relevant to the cosmetic industry providing a better understanding of the scientific-based formulation of modern cosmetics and supports the need for innovative antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics.

Expression of elastolytic cathepsins in human skin and their involvement in age-dependent elastin degradation

BACKGROUND

Skin ageing is associated with structure-functional changes in the extracellular matrix, which is in part caused by proteolytic degradation. Since cysteine cathepsins are major matrix protein-degrading proteases, we investigated the age-dependent expression of elastolytic cathepsins K, S, and V in human skin, their in vitro impact on the integrity of the elastic fibre network, their cleavage specificities, and the release of bioactive peptides.

METHODS

Cathepsin-mediated degradation of human skin elastin samples was assessed from young to very old human donors using immunohistochemical and biochemical assays, scanning electron microscopy, and mass spectrometry.

RESULTS

Elastin samples derived from patients between 10 and 86 years of age were analysed and showed an age-dependent deterioration of the fibre structure from a dense network of thinner fibrils into a beaded and porous mesh. Reduced levels of cathepsins K, S, and V were observed in aged skin with a predominant epidermal expression. Cathepsin V was the most potent elastase followed by cathepsin K and S. Biomechanical analysis of degraded elastin fibres corroborated the destructive activity of cathepsins. Mass spectrometric determination of the cleavage sites in elastin revealed that all three cathepsins predominantly cleaved in hydrophobic domains. The degradation of elastin was efficiently inhibited by an ectosteric inhibitor. Furthermore, the degradation of elastin fibres resulted in the release of bioactive peptides, which have previously been associated with various pathologies.

CONCLUSION

Cathepsins are powerful elastin-degrading enzymes and capable of generating a multitude of elastokines. They may represent a viable target for intervention strategies to reduce skin ageing.

Optimizing skin pharmacotherapy for older patients: the future is at hand but are we ready for it?

Age-related changes affect both the local pharmacotherapy of skin diseases and the transdermal administration of drugs. The development of aged skin models disregards the highly individual process of aging, facilitating general conclusions for older patients. Nevertheless, 'omics technology, high-content screening, and non-invasive imaging, as well as bioprinting, CRISPR-Cas, and, patients-on-a-chip, can retrieve personalized information for the generation of in vitro models. Herein, we suggest a strategy to optimize pharmacotherapy for older patients. The technology for relevant human cell-based models is at hand and the consideration of patient heterogeneity is required to unlock their full potential.

Derivation of Cell-Engineered Nanovesicles from Human Induced Pluripotent Stem Cells and Their Protective Effect on the Senescence of Dermal Fibroblasts

Stem cells secrete numerous paracrine factors, such as cytokines, growth factors, and extracellular vesicles. As a kind of extracellular vesicle (EV), exosomes produced in the endosomal compartment of eukaryotic cells have recently emerged as a biomedical material for regenerative medicine, because they contain many valuable contents that are derived from the host cells, and can stably deliver those contents to other recipient cells. Although we have previously demonstrated the beneficial effects of human induced potent stem cell-derived exosomes (iPSC-Exo) on the aging of skin fibroblasts, low production yield has remained an obstacle for clinical applications. In this study, we generated cell-engineered nanovesicles (CENVs) by serial extrusion of human iPSCs through membrane filters with diminishing pore sizes, and explored whether the iPSC-CENV ameliorates physiological alterations of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) that occur by natural senescence. The iPSC-CENV exhibited similar characteristics to the iPSC-Exo, while the production yield was drastically increased compared to that of iPSC-derived EVs, including exosomes. The proliferation and migration of both young and senescent HDFs were stimulated by the treatment with iPSC-CENVs. In addition, it was revealed that the iPSC-CNEV restored senescence-related alterations of gene expression. Treatment with iPSC-CENVs significantly reduced the activity of senescence-associated-β-galactosidase (SA-β-Gal) in senescent HDFs, as well as suppressing the elevated expression of p53 and p21, key factors involved in cell cycle arrest, apoptosis, and cellular senescence signaling pathways. Taken together, these results suggest that iPSC-CENV could provide an excellent alternative to iPSC-exo, and be exploited as a resource for the treatment of signs of skin aging.

Agriculture waste valorisation as a source of antioxidant phenolic compounds within a circular and sustainable bioeconomy

Agro-food industrial waste is currently being accumulated, pushing scientists to find recovery strategies to obtain bioactive compounds within a circular bioeconomy. Target phenolic compounds have shown market potential by means of optimization extraction techniques.

Marine Seaweed Polysaccharides-Based Engineered Cues for the Modern Biomedical Sector

Seaweed-derived polysaccharides with unique structural and functional entities have gained special research attention in the current medical sector. Seaweed polysaccharides have been or being used to engineer novel cues with biomedical values to tackle in practice the limitations of counterparts which have become ineffective for 21st-century settings. The inherited features of seaweed polysaccharides, such as those of a biologically tunable, biocompatible, biodegradable, renewable, and non-toxic nature, urge researchers to use them to design therapeutically effective, efficient, controlled delivery, patient-compliant, and age-compliant drug delivery platforms. Based on their significant retention capabilities, tunable active units, swelling, and colloidal features, seaweed polysaccharides have appeared as highly useful materials for modulating drug-delivery and tissue-engineering systems. This paper presents a standard methodological approach to review the literature using inclusion-exclusion criteria, which is mostly ignored in the reported literature. Following that, numerous marine-based seaweed polysaccharides are discussed with suitable examples. For the applied perspectives, part of the review is focused on the biomedical values, i.e., targeted drug delivery, wound-curative potential, anticancer potentialities, tissue-engineering aspects, and ultraviolet (UV) protectant potential of seaweed polysaccharides based engineered cues. Finally, current challenges, gaps, and future perspectives have been included in this review.

The protective effects of β-sitosterol and vermicularin from Thamnolia vermicularis (Sw.) Ach. against skin aging in vitro

Aged skin, featured with dryness and wrinkles, has received mounting attention due to its adverse influences on beauty. β-Sitosterol and vermicularin are two common active ingredients of Thamnolia vermicularis (Sw.) Ach., a traditional Chinese medicine, of which the anti-aging effect has been discovered. Their protective performance against skin aging was assayed by co-culturing with skin cells in this work. Results showed that β-sitosterol promoted the biosynthesis of hyaluronic acid by increasing the expression of hyaluronic acid synthases in fibroblasts and enhanced the expression of skin barrier functional proteins including aquaporin 3, loricrin, filaggrin and involucrin in keratinocytes, which conduced to the moisture retention within skin. Moreover, vermicularin might function as an anti-wrinkle agent by preventing the loss of collagen type I. Specifically, vermicularin reduced the amount of reactive oxygen species within hydrogen-peroxide-induced fibroblasts; together with suppressing the activation of mitogen-activated protein kinases, it could inhibit the production of matrix metalloproteinases-1. The present research will contribute to the development of the compounds as anti-aging ingredients for future applications in cosmetic formulations and functional food as well as promote further studies of raw materials containing alike compounds.