Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety

Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare

Background:

Although cosmetic procedures have a significant impact on certain aspects of aging, such as deep, wrinkling, sagging, and volume loss, they fail to address the overall quality of the skin.

Methods:

Daily skincare routines potentially can have a significant long-term impact on the overall quality of a person’s complexion.

Results:

By expanding our product knowledge, we can help our patients individualize their at-home skincare routine using effective products and ingredients designed to address their specific skin concern and support the professional care we deliver.

Conclusions:

Here, we discuss the types of products and ingredients suitable for the most common dermatologic concerns, from wrinkling to skin sensitivity, acne to sun damage.

Neocollagenesis and Neoelastinogenesis: From the Laboratory to the Clinic

An internet search was made looking for articles about chemical and physical modalities that are known to induce collagen and elastin formation. Textbooks, independent articles, journals and books on pathology, biochemistry, aesthetic medicine and cosmetic and plastic surgery were used as references. Here, we take a look at various studies, in vitro and in vivo, that lend credence to the products and procedures used in clinical practice to induce neocollagenesis and neoelastinogenesis.

Retinoids: Literature Review and Suggested Algorithm for Use Prior to Facial Resurfacing Procedures

Vitamin A-containing products have been used topically since the early 1940s to treat various skin conditions. To date, there are four generations of retinoids, a family of Vitamin A-containing compounds. Tretinoin, all-trans-retinoic acid, is a first-generation, naturally occurring, retinoid. It is available, commercially, as a gel or cream. The authors conducted a complete review of all studies, clinical- and basic science-based studies, within the literature involving tretinoin treatment recommendations for impending facial procedures. The literature currently lacks definitive recommendations for the use of tretinoin-containing products prior to undergoing facial procedures. Tretinoin pretreatment regimens vary greatly in terms of the strength of retinoid used, the length of the pre-procedure treatment, and the ideal time to stop treatment before the procedure. Based on the current literature and personal experience, the authors set forth a set of guidelines for the use of tretinoin prior to various facial procedures.

Chum salmon egg extracts induce upregulation of collagen type I and exert antioxidative effects on human dermal fibroblast cultures

Components of fish roe possess antioxidant and antiaging activities, making them potentially very beneficial natural resources. Here, we investigated chum salmon eggs (CSEs) as a source of active ingredients, including vitamins, unsaturated fatty acids, and proteins. We incubated human dermal fibroblast cultures for 48 hours with high and low concentrations of CSE extracts and analyzed changes in gene expression. Cells treated with CSE extract showed concentration-dependent upregulation of collagen type I genes and of multiple antioxidative genes, including OXR1, TXNRD1, and PRDX family genes. We further conducted in silico phylogenetic footprinting analysis of promoter regions. These results suggested that transcription factors such as acute myeloid leukemia-1a and cyclic adenosine monophosphate response element-binding protein may be involved in the observed upregulation of antioxidative genes. Our results support the idea that CSEs are strong candidate sources of antioxidant materials and cosmeceutically effective ingredients.

Isolation of All CD44 Transcripts in Human Epidermis and Regulation of Their Expression by Various Agents

CD44, a cell surface proteoglycan, is involved in many biological events. CD44 transcripts undergo complex alternative splicing, resulting in many functionally distinct isoforms. To date, however, the nature of these isoforms in human epidermis has not been adequately determined. In this study, we isolated all CD44 transcripts from normal human epidermis, and studied how their expressions are regulated. By RT-PCR, we found that a number of different CD44 transcripts were expressed in human epidermis, and we obtained all these transcripts from DNA bands in agarose and acrylamide gels by cloning. Detailed sequence analysis revealed 18 CD44 transcripts, 3 of which were novel. Next, we examined effects of 10 different agents on the expression of CD44 transcripts in cultured human keratinocytes, and found that several agents, particularly epidermal growth factor, hydrogen peroxide, phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate, retinoic acid, calcium and fetal calf serum differently regulated their expressions in various patterns. Furthermore, normal and malignant keratinocytes were found to produce different CD44 transcripts upon serum stimulation and subsequent starvation, suggesting that specific CD44 isoforms are involved in tumorigenesis via different CD44-mediated biological pathways.

Nanostructured lipid carriers for the topical delivery of tretinoin

Cosmetic skin care products currently in the market demonstrate an increasing trend toward antiaging products. Selection of the right formulation approach is the key to successful consumer acceptance. Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) for dermal application can render added benefits to the formulation. Tretinoin a derivative of vitamin A, is a retinoid with anti-aging and anti-acne potential. The present study was aimed at formulating NLCs of tretinoin for reducing the skin irritation potential, increasing the drug loading capacity and prolonging the duration of action. The NLCs were optimized using the response surface methodology based on the particle size. Preliminary study, suggested the use of stearic acid, oleic acid, Tween 80 and Span 60 as solid lipid, liquid lipid and surfactants respectively formed a stable dispersion. NLCs of tretinoin were prepared by hot melt microemulsion and hot melt probe sonication methods. The properties of the optimized NLCs such as morphology, size, Zeta potential, stability and in vitro drug release were investigated. Tretinoin loaded NLCs in carbopol gel showed a sustained release pattern with isopropyl alcohol as the receptor fluid compared to the marketed gel using Franz diffusion cells. Eight prepared gel formulations tested were found to follow the Higuchi model of drug release. Stability studies indicated that the formulations stored at refrigeration and room temperature showed no noticeable differences in the drug content and release profiles in vitro, after a period of 4 weeks. In vivo skin irritation test on male Wister rats indicated no irritation or erythema after application of the NLCs loaded gel repeated for a period of 7 days compared to the application of marketed tretinoin gel which showed irritation and slight erythema within 3 days. The results showed that the irritation potential of tretinoin was reduced, the drug loading was increased and the drug release was prolonged by the incorporation into the NLCs.

Molecular basis of retinol anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo

OBJECTIVE

Retinoic acid has been shown to improve the aged-appearing skin. However, less is known about the anti-ageing effects of retinol (ROL, vitamin A), a precursor of retinoic acid, in aged human skin in vivo. This study aimed to investigate the molecular basis of ROL anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo.

METHODS

Sun-protected buttock skin (76 ± 6 years old, n = 12) was topically treated with 0.4% ROL and its vehicle for 7 days. The effects of topical ROL on skin epidermis and dermis were evaluated by immunohistochemistry, in situ hybridization, Northern analysis, real-time RT-PCR and Western analysis. Collagen fibrils nanoscale structure and surface topology were analysed by atomic force microscopy.

RESULTS

Topical ROL shows remarkable anti-ageing effects through three major types of skin cells: epidermal keratinocytes, dermal endothelial cells and fibroblasts. Topical ROL significantly increased epidermal thickness by stimulating keratinocytes proliferation and upregulation of c-Jun transcription factor. In addition to epidermal changes, topical ROL significantly improved dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) microenvironment; increasing dermal vascularity by stimulating endothelial cells proliferation and ECM production (type I collagen, fibronectin and elastin) by activating dermal fibroblasts. Topical ROL also stimulates TGF-β/CTGF pathway, the major regulator of ECM homeostasis, and thus enriched the deposition of ECM in aged human skin in vivo. 0.4% topical ROL achieved similar results as seen with topical retinoic acid, the biologically active form of ROL, without causing noticeable signs of retinoid side effects.

CONCLUSION

0.4% topical ROL shows remarkable anti-ageing effects through improvement of the homeostasis of epidermis and dermis by stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes and endothelial cells, and activating dermal fibroblasts. These data provide evidence that 0.4% topical ROL is a promising and safe treatment to improve the naturally aged human skin.

Adapalene-benzoyl Peroxide Gel is Efficacious and Safe in Adult Female Acne, with a Profile Comparable to that Seen in Teen-aged Females

Objectives: To evaluate the efficacy and safety of adapalene 0.1% benzoyl peroxide 2.5% gel in women aged 25 years or older via subgroup analysis of existing Phase 2 and 3 study data. Methods: Meta-analysis of pooled data from three multicenter, randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled, parallel-group, clinical trials compared results of treatment with either adapalene 0.1% benzoyl peroxide 2.5% gel or vehicle gel in adult females and teen-aged females. Efficacy assessments included investigator's global assessment and median percent change in acne lesions. Safety assessments included skin tolerability and adverse events. Results: Two hundred fifty-four adult females and 488 teen-aged females were included in the analyses, and baseline characteristics were comparable between subjects receiving adapalene 0.1% benzoyl peroxide 2.5% or vehicle. Both adult females and teen-aged females in the adapalene 0.1% benzoyl peroxide 2.5% arm were significantly more often rated clear/almost clear compared with those in the vehicle arm at Weeks 8 (P=0.016) and 12 (P<0.001); at endpoint, success was achieved in 39.2 percent with adapalene 0.1% benzoyl peroxide 2.5% and 18.5 percent with vehicle. Comparison of the amount of difference between active and vehicle reductions in investigator's global assessment showed that efficacy was similar for adult females versus teen-aged females (20.7% vs. 19.9%, respectively). Adapalene 0.1% benzoyl peroxide 2.5% had a rapid onset of action, with statistically significant reductions in all acne lesion types versus vehicle observed by Week 1. Adapalene 0.1% benzoyl peroxide 2.5% was safe and well-tolerated by adult females with a tolerability profile consistent with that seen in teen-aged females. Conclusions: The once-daily fixed-dose combination product adapalene 0.1% benzoyl peroxide 2.5% is an efficacious, safe, and well-tolerated treatment for adult female acne, with a profile similar to that in teen-aged females.

Topical Retinoids: Therapeutic Mechanisms in the Treatment of Photodamaged Skin

Retinoids are a group of substances comprising vitamin A and its natural and synthetic derivatives. Retinoids were first used in dermatology in 1943 by Straumfjord for acne vulgaris. Since that time, retinoids have been utilized in the management and treatment of various skin conditions, including photoaging. Photodamage of the skin occurs as a consequence of cumulative exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and is characterized by deep wrinkles, easy bruising, inelasticity, mottled pigmentation, roughness, and telangiectasias. The mechanism of UVR-induced photodamage is multifactorial. Retinoids have demonstrated efficacy in the treatment of photoaged skin. Indeed, understanding the pathophysiology of photoaging and the molecular mechanism of retinoids can not only provide insight into the effects retinoids can exert in treating photoaging but also provide the rationale for their use in the treatment of other dermatologic diseases.

Topical Products for the Aging Face

This article focuses on nonprescription home-use topical treatment technologies for the aging face and is intended to serve as a guide for the core cosmeceutical technologies currently used and to help educate and assist the selection of topical antiaging products by the professional staff and their patients. Antiaging topical treatments for patient home use should be nonirritating, compatible with the patient skin type, effective, and complementary to surgical and minimally invasive office procedures, and aesthetically elegant. New topical antiaging technologies, formulated as monotherapy or as combinations with well-known cosmeceuticals, should present adequate clinical studies to support their selection for use.

Role of the steroidogenic acute regulatory protein in health and disease

Steroid hormones are an important class of regulatory molecules that are synthesized in steroidogenic cells of the adrenal, ovary, testis, placenta, brain, and skin, and influence a spectrum of developmental and physiological processes. The steroidogenic acute regulatory protein (STAR) predominantly mediates the rate-limiting step in steroid biosynthesis, i.e., the transport of the substrate of all steroid hormones, cholesterol, from the outer to the inner mitochondrial membrane. At the inner membrane, cytochrome P450 cholesterol side chain cleavage enzyme cleaves the cholesterol side chain to form the first steroid, pregnenolone, which is converted by a series of enzymes to various steroid hormones in specific tissues. Both basic and clinical evidence have demonstrated the crucial involvement of the STAR protein in the regulation of steroid biosynthesis. Multiple levels of regulation impinge on STAR action. Recent findings demonstrate that hormone-sensitive lipase, through its action on the hydrolysis of cholesteryl esters, plays an important role in regulating STAR expression and steroidogenesis which involve the liver X receptor pathway. Activation of the latter influences macrophage cholesterol efflux that is a key process in the prevention of atherosclerotic cardiovascular disease. Appropriate regulation of steroid hormones is vital for proper functioning of many important biological activities, which are also paramount for geriatric populations to live longer and healthier. This review summarizes the current level of understanding on tissue-specific and hormone-induced regulation of STAR expression and steroidogenesis, and provides insights into a number of cholesterol and/or steroid coupled physiological and pathophysiological consequences.

The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity

Objective

To evaluate the effects of a rose hip powder (Hyben Vital^®) made from seeds and shells on cell senescence, skin wrinkling, and aging.

Methods

A total of 34 healthy subjects, aged 35–65 years, with wrinkles on the face (crow’s-feet) were subjected to a randomized and double-blinded clinical study of the effects of the rose hip powder, as compared to astaxanthin, a well-known remedy against wrinkles. During the 8-week study, half of the participants ingested the standardized rose hip product, while the other half ingested astaxanthin. Objective measurements of facial wrinkles, skin moisture, and elasticity were made by using Visioscan, Corneometer, and Cutometer at the beginning of the study, after 4 weeks, and after 8 weeks. Evaluation of participant satisfaction of both supplements was assessed using questionnaires. In addition, the effect of the rose hip preparation on cell longevity was measured in terms of leakage of hemoglobin through red cell membranes (hemolytic index) in blood samples kept in a blood bank for 5 weeks. Significance of all values was attained with P≤0.05.

Results

In the double-blinded study, the rose hip group showed statistically significant improvements in crow’s-feet wrinkles (P<0.05), skin moisture (P<0.05), and elasticity (P<0.05) after 8 weeks of treatment. A similar improvement was observed for astaxanthin, with P-values 0.05, 0.001, and 0.05. Likewise, both groups expressed equal satisfaction with the results obtained in their self-assessment. The rose hip powder further resulted in increased cell longevity of erythrocyte cells during storage for 5 weeks in a blood bank.

Conclusion

Results suggest that intake of the standardized rose hip powder (Hyben Vital^®) improves aging-induced skin conditions. The apparent stabilizing effects of the rose hip product on cell membranes of stored erythrocyte cells observed in this study may contribute to improve the cell longevity and obstructing skin aging.

A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin

BACKGROUND

All-trans retinol, a precursor of retinoic acid, is an effective anti-aging treatment widely used in skin care products. In comparison, topical retinoic acid is believed to provide even greater anti-aging effects; however, there is limited research directly comparing the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on skin.

OBJECTIVES

In this study, we compare the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on skin structure and expression of skin function-related genes and proteins. We also examine the effect of retinol treatment on skin appearance.

METHODS

Skin histology was examined by H&E staining and in vivo confocal microscopy. Expression levels of skin genes and proteins were analyzed using RT-PCR and immunohistochemistry. The efficacy of a retinol formulation in improving skin appearance was assessed using digital image-based wrinkle analysis.

RESULTS

Four weeks of retinoic acid and retinol treatments both increased epidermal thickness, and upregulated genes for collagen type 1 (COL1A1), and collagen type 3 (COL3A1) with corresponding increases in procollagen I and procollagen III protein expression. Facial image analysis showed a significant reduction in facial wrinkles following 12 weeks of retinol application.

CONCLUSIONS

The results of this study demonstrate that topical application of retinol significantly affects both cellular and molecular properties of the epidermis and dermis, as shown by skin biopsy and noninvasive imaging analyses. Although the magnitude tends to be smaller, retinol induces similar changes in skin histology, and gene and protein expression as compared to retinoic acid application. These results were confirmed by the significant facial anti-aging effect observed in the retinol efficacy clinical study.

Chemical stability and in vitro and clinical efficacy of a novel hybrid retinoid derivative, bis-retinamido methylpentane

The anti-aging agent, retinol, has fewer side effects and similar biological activity compared to retinoic acid. However, retinol becomes unstable when exposed to light and heat. A novel hybrid retinoid derivative, bis-retinamido methylpentane (RS-2A), was newly developed to overcome the limitations. This study evaluated the chemical stability of RS-2A under thermal and light conditions by examining degradation profiles, and assessed the in vitro biological activity, cytotoxicity, and clinical efficacy. Chemical stability and degradation profiles were investigated with HPLC and LC-MS. Especially, photo-stability of RS-2A was analyzed under various conditions, such as change of physical state and concentration, different solvents, and various excipients. For analyses of cellular activity and cytotoxicity, human dermal fibroblasts were cultured with RS-2A. To evaluate the safety and efficacy of the compound with the cellular results, RS-2A was applied to women who had moderate to severe wrinkles at the periorbital region. All of the experiments were conducted with retinol as a reference. RS-2A was more stable than retinol to thermal conditions, especially in solution. Both RS-2A and retinol were unstable to light, but RS-2A showed enhanced photo-stability with regard to concentration, more polar solvent, and addition of proper excipients. RS-2A exhibited decreased cytotoxicity and enhanced effects on collagen synthesis compared with retinol. In a clinical study, a 4-week treatment with RS-2A significantly improved the appearance of periorbital wrinkles without any side effects. The results indicate that RS-2A might have potential as an anti-aging agent for cosmeceutical preparations because of its enhanced chemical stability, biological activity, safety, and clinical efficacy.

On the role of skin in the regulation of local and systemic steroidogenic activities

The mammalian skin is a heterogeneous organ/tissue covering our body, showing regional variations and endowed with neuroendocrine activities. The latter is represented by its ability to produce and respond to neurotransmitters, neuropeptides, hormones and neurohormones, of which expression and phenotypic activities can be modified by ultraviolet radiation, chemical and physical factors, as well as by cytokines. The neuroendocrine contribution to the responses of skin to stress is served, in part, by local synthesis of all elements of the hypothalamo-pituitary-adrenal axis. Skin with subcutis can also be classified as a steroidogenic tissue because it expresses the enzyme, CYP11A1, which initiates steroid synthesis by converting cholesterol to pregnenolone, as in other steroidogenic tissues. Pregnenolone, or steroidal precursors from the circulation, are further transformed in the skin to corticosteroids or sex hormones. Furthermore, in the skin CYP11A1 acts on 7-dehydrocholesterol with production of 7-dehydropregnolone, which can be further metabolized to other Δ7steroids, which after exposure to UVB undergo photochemical transformation to vitamin D like compounds with a short side chain. Vitamin D and lumisterol, produced in the skin after exposure to UVB, are also metabolized by CYP11A1 to several hydroxyderivatives. Vitamin D hydroxyderivatives generated by action of CYP11A1 are biologically active and are subject to further hydroxylations by CYP27B1, CYP27A1 and CP24A. Establishment of which intermediates are produced in the epidermis in vivo and whether they circulate on the systemic level represent a future research challenge. In summary, skin is a neuroendocrine organ endowed with steroid/secosteroidogenic activities.

Retinoic acid potentiates inflammatory cytokines in human mast cells: identification of mast cells as prominent constituents of the skin retinoid network

Retinoic acid (RA), the active vitamin-A-metabolite, has well-established functions in skin homeostasis and in the immune system. Skin mast cells (MCs) combine traits of both structures, being of hematopoietic origin, but functional in the skin environment. It remains largely unknown whether mature MCs are targeted by the retinoid network. Here, we demonstrate that human skin MCs display substantial susceptibility to RA by which they are instructed to increase pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-1β, IL-8, TNF-α) but not histamine release. The effects are observed at physiological RA levels, in different microenvironments, and are largely donor-independent. RA susceptibility is owed to the cells' abundant expression of RARA, the receptor mediating MC cytokine responses. Unexpectedly, bioinformatics calculations on the FANTOM5 expression atlas revealed general enrichment of retinoid network components in MCs against other skin cells, and MCs rapidly upregulated RA responsive genes. In conclusion, MCs are important yet hitherto overlooked retinoid targets in the skin.

Role of micronutrients in skin health and function

Skin is the first line of defense for protecting our bodies against external perturbations, including ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, mechanical/chemical stress, and bacterial infection. Nutrition is one of many factors required for the maintenance of overall skin health. An impaired nutritional status alters the structural integrity and biological function of skin, resulting in an abnormal skin barrier. In particular, the importance of micronutrients (such as certain vitamins and minerals) for skin health has been highlighted in cell culture, animal, and clinical studies. These micronutrients are employed not only as active compounds in therapeutic agents for treating certain skin diseases, but also as ingredients in cosmetic products. Here, the author describes the barrier function of the skin and the general nutritional requirements for skin health. The goal of this review is to discuss the potential roles and current knowledge of selected micronutrients in skin health and function.

Retinol encapsulated into amorphous Ca(2+) polyphosphate nanospheres acts synergistically in MC3T3-E1 cells

Both the quality and quantity of collagen, the major structural component of the skin, decrease in aging skin. We succeeded to encapsulate retinol into amorphous inorganic polyphosphate (polyP) nanoparticles together with calcium ions ("aCa-polyP-NP"), under formation of amorphous Ca-polyP/retinol nanospheres ("retinol/aCa-polyP-NS"). The globular nanospheres are not cytotoxic, show an almost uniform size of ≈ 45 nm and have a retinol content of around 25%. Both components of those nanospheres, retinol and the aCa-polyP-NP, if administered together, caused a strong increase in proliferation of mouse calvaria MC3T3 cells. The expressions of collagen types I, II and III genes, but not the expression of collagen type V gene, were significantly enhanced if retinol is added together with aCa-polyP-NP. This synergistic effect was especially pronounced for the expression of the collagen type III gene. We propose that the synergistic effect of the retinol/aCa-polyP-NS on cell growth and collagen type III expression is induced via two routes, first through cellular uptake of the 45 nm nanospheres by clathrin-mediated endocytosis and second through extracellular disintegration of the nanospheres resulting in the release of retinol which is then taken up into the cells after binding to the retinal binding protein receptor.

Granzyme B mediates both direct and indirect cleavage of extracellular matrix in skin after chronic low-dose ultraviolet light irradiation

Extracellular matrix (ECM) degradation is a hallmark of many chronic inflammatory diseases that can lead to a loss of function, aging, and disease progression. Ultraviolet light (UV) irradiation from the sun is widely considered as the major cause of visible human skin aging, causing increased inflammation and enhanced ECM degradation. Granzyme B (GzmB), a serine protease that is expressed by a variety of cells, accumulates in the extracellular milieu during chronic inflammation and cleaves a number of ECM proteins. We hypothesized that GzmB contributes to ECM degradation in the skin after UV irradiation through both direct cleavage of ECM proteins and indirectly through the induction of other proteinases. Wild-type and GzmB-knockout mice were repeatedly exposed to minimal erythemal doses of solar-simulated UV irradiation for 20 weeks. GzmB expression was significantly increased in wild-type treated skin compared to nonirradiated controls, colocalizing to keratinocytes and to an increased mast cell population. GzmB deficiency significantly protected against the formation of wrinkles and the loss of dermal collagen density, which was related to the cleavage of decorin, an abundant proteoglycan involved in collagen fibrillogenesis and integrity. GzmB also cleaved fibronectin, and GzmB-mediated fibronectin fragments increased the expression of collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in fibroblasts. Collectively, these findings indicate a significant role for GzmB in ECM degradation that may have implications in many age-related chronic inflammatory diseases.

Development of a topical adapalene-solid lipid nanoparticle loaded gel with enhanced efficacy and improved skin tolerability

The present investigation substantiates the efficacy of adapalene loaded solid lipid nanoparticles (Ada-SLNs) in ameliorating the skin irritation potential of adapalene owing to its altered skin distribution.

Characterization of alcohol dehydrogenase from Kangiella koreensis and its application to production of all-trans-retinol

A recombinant alcohol dehydrogenase (ADH) from Kangiella koreensis was purified as a 40 kDa dimer with a specific activity of 21.3 nmol min(-1) mg(-1), a K m of 1.8 μM, and a k cat of 1.7 min(-1) for all-trans-retinal using NADH as cofactor. The enzyme showed activity for all-trans-retinol using NAD (+) as a cofactor. The reaction conditions for all-trans-retinol production were optimal at pH 6.5 and 60 °C, 2 g enzyme l(-1), and 2,200 mg all-trans-retinal l(-1) in the presence of 5% (v/v) methanol, 1% (w/v) hydroquinone, and 10 mM NADH. Under optimized conditions, the ADH produced 600 mg all-trans-retinol l(-1) after 3 h, with a conversion yield of 27.3% (w/w) and a productivity of 200 mg l(-1) h(-1). This is the first report of the characterization of a bacterial ADH for all-trans-retinal and the biotechnological production of all-trans-retinol using ADH.

Efficacy evaluation of a multifunctional cosmetic formulation: the benefits of a combination of active antioxidant substances

This study presents the association of active antioxidants substances in a multifunctional cosmetic formulation with established efficacy against signs of aging. A multifunctional cosmetic formulation containing an association of UV filters and antioxidant substances (liposoluble vitamins A, C and E, Ginkgo biloba and Phorphyra umbilicalis extracts) was evaluated. This formulation was submitted to a clinical efficacy study using biophysics techniques and skin images analysis (digital photography imaging systems, 20 MHz ultrasound, and reflectance confocal microscopy). The volunteers applied the formulation containing the UV filters and antioxidant substances during the day and the formulation with antioxidant substances and without the UV filters at night, for 90 days. The formulation increased the hydration and protected the skin barrier function after a single application. At the long term assessment the formulation provided an improvement in skin barrier function and skin hydration to the deeper layers of the epidermis, leading to an improvement in skin appearance by reducing wrinkles and skin roughness. The multifunctional cosmetic formulation studied can be suggested to preventing signs of aging and improving skin conditions. In addition, this study presents the benefits of associating different active antioxidants substances in a single cosmetic formulation to prevent skin aging.

Combined therapeutic use of oral alitretinoin and narrowband ultraviolet-B therapy in the treatment of hailey-hailey disease

Hailey-Hailey disease (HHD) is a chronic familial bullous disease characterized by recurrent blisters and erosions typically at friction-prone areas of the body accompanied by acantholysis upon histologic examination. There are a number of therapies used in the management of HHD. Its symptoms have been effectively treated with antimicrobial therapies, corticosteroids and other agents such as cyclosporine and prednisone. However, such treatments are not always effective. Therefore, there is a need for new treatments for the management of HHD. In this report, a patient with long-standing HHD responsive only to high levels of prednisone is described. After the successful tapering and cessation of oral prednisone the patient began a new combination therapy of complementary doses of oral alitretinoin, and narrowband UVB therapy, which yielded a favorable response within 2-3 weeks. After 6 weeks, a mono-therapy of daily (30 mg) oral alitretinoin was sufficient to maintain successful near-complete remission of the disease.

Amphiphilic polysaccharide nanocarriers with antioxidant properties

The development of self-assembled nanocarriers for the encapsulation of hydrophobic antioxidants is of growing interest. Self-assembled amphiphilic chitosan conjugate nanocarriers that stabilize antioxidants were prepared based on the concept that both the nanocarrier and the antioxidant bear similar hydrophobic moieties able to establish hydrophobic interactions. This work describes the preparation and characterization of a system consisting of a palmitoyl chitosan conjugate and retinyl palmitate. Palmitic acid was coupled to chitosan using a carbodiimide-mediated coupling reaction, and two different palmitoyl chitosan conjugates were obtained by varying the coupling system. Palmitoyl chitosan conjugates self-assembled to form nanoparticles in aqueous medium varying in mean average diameter (Dh) between 200 and 437 nm. Retinyl palmitate–loaded nanoparticles were prepared by a solvent displacement method using dialysis, with loading efficiencies of 77.5% and 88.6%, loading contents of 12.6% and 14.6%, and Dh values of approximately 280 nm. The zeta potential (ζ) of all palmitoyl chitosan nanoparticle were above 25 mV, but ζ slightly increased in the retinyl palmitate–loaded nanoparticle. Antioxidant activity of loaded nanoparticles was confirmed using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl radical scavenging assay. The in vitro cytotoxicity of blank and loaded nanoparticles was determined using fibroblasts of human embryonic skin. All nanoparticles were not cytotoxic when they were tested with methylthiazol tetrazolium and lactate dehydrogenase tests. The obtained results suggest that the system has potential as a nanocarrier for dermal application. Additionally, the approach considered in this article can be expanded to other nanocarrier/antioxidant systems.

Cryptomphalus aspersa mollusc eggs extract promotes migration and prevents cutaneous ageing in keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts in vitro

BACKGROUND

The search of substances that minimize cutaneous ageing has increased in the last few years. Previous studies have described the regenerative properties of the secretion of the mollusc Cryptomphalus aspersa (C. aspersa) when applied topically.

OBJECTIVE

We evaluate the in vitro effects of a new product derived from the eggs of C. aspersa, IFC-CAF, on cell proliferation, migration, distribution of cytoskeletal proteins, production of extracellular components as well as its ability to prevent cutaneous ageing because of intrinsic or extrinsic factors (exposure to UVB) by determination of ageing markers.

METHODS

We have used the human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells), primary dermal fibroblasts (HDF) and senescent dermal fibroblasts (SHDF). The effects of the compound on cell proliferation and on the cell cycle were determined by the MTT colorimetric assay, estimation of total protein and/or trypan blue test and by flow cytometry, respectively. We also studied cell migration using the wound-healing migration assay, whereas ELISA assays, Western Blot and immunofluorescence microscopy were carried out to test the expression of proteins related to cytoskeleton, extracellular matrix and with ageing.

RESULTS

We have found that IFC-CAF does not promote proliferation but induces migration of HaCaT, HDF and SHDF in a time- and dose-dependent manner; a better organization of cytoskeletal proteins (F-actin and vimentin) and promotes the production of extracellular components (fibronectin, collagen 1 and MMPs) and the adhesion to cell-substrate vinculin protein. IFC-CAF also prevents cutaneous ageing. The treatment decreases the expression of the ageing-related markers b-Gal, p53 and p16INK4 in SDDF cells, and improves cell survival after UVB irradiation and nuclear repair in HaCaT cells.

CONCLUSION

IFC-CAF has regenerative properties and protects against ageing factors being, therefore, a potential therapeutic agent for treating or preventing skin ageing.

Uniaxially aligned electrospun cellulose acetate nanofibers for thin layer chromatographic screening of hydroquinone and retinoic acid adulterated in cosmetics

Uniaxially aligned cellulose acetate (CA) nanofibers were successfully fabricated by electrospinning and applied to use as stationary phase for thin layer chromatography. The control of alignment was achieved by using a drum collector rotating at a high speed of 6000 rpm. Spin time of 6h was used to produce the fiber thickness of about 10 μm which was adequate for good separation. Without any chemical modification after the electrospinning process, CA nanofibers could be readily devised for screening hydroquinone (HQ) and retinoic acid (RA) adulterated in cosmetics using the mobile phase consisting of 65:35:2.5 methanol/water/acetic acid. It was found that the separation run on the aligned nanofibers over a distance of 5 cm took less than 15 min which was two to three times faster than that on the non-aligned ones. On the aligned nanofibers, the masses of HQ and RA which could be visualized were 10 and 25 ng, respectively, which were two times lower than those on the non-aligned CA fibers and five times lower than those on conventional silica plates due to the appearance of darker and sharper of spots on the aligned nanofibers. Furthermore, the proposed method efficiently resolved HQ from RA and ingredients commonly found in cosmetic creams. Due to the satisfactory analytical performance, facile and inexpensive production process, uniaxially aligned electrospun CA nanofibers are promising alternative media for planar chromatography.

ALDH1A1 Deficiency in Gorlin Syndrome Suggests a Central Role for Retinoic Acid and ATM Deficits in Radiation Carcinogenesis

We hypothesize that aldehyde dehydrogenase 1A1 (ALDH1A1) deficiency will result in impaired ataxia-telangiectasia mutated (ATM) activation in a retinoic acid-sensitive fashion. Data supporting this hypothesis include (1) reduced ATM activation in irradiated primary dermal fibroblasts from ALDH1A1-deficient Gorlin syndrome patients (GDFs), relative to ALDH1A1-positive normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) and (2) increased ATM activation by X-radiation in GDFs pretreated with retinoic acid, however, the impact of donor variability on ATM activation in fibroblasts was not assessed and is a prudent consideration in future studies. Clonogenic survival of irradiated cells showed differential responses to retinoic acid as a function of treatment time. Long-term (5 Day) retinoic acid treatment functioned as a radiosensitizer and was associated with downregulation of ATM protein levels. Short-term (7 h) retinoic acid treatment showed a trend toward increased survival of irradiated cells and did not downregulate ATM protein levels. Using a newly developed IncubATR technology, which defines changes in bulk chemical bond patterns in live cells, we can discriminate between the NHDF and GDF phenotypes, but treatment of GDFs with retinoic acid does not induce reversion of bulk chemical bond patterns associated with GDFs toward the NHDF phenotype. Collectively, our preliminary investigation of the Gorlin phenotype has identified deficient ALDH1A1 expression associated with deficient ATM activation as a possible susceptibility factor that is consistent with the high incidence of spontaneous and radiation-induced carcinogenesis in these patients. The IncubATR technology exhibits sufficient sensitivity to detect phenotypic differences in live cells that may be relevant to radiation health effects.

Topical pharmacotherapy for skin cancer: part I. Pharmacology

Topical pharmacotherapy represents an effective alternative treatment for superficial skin cancer, primarily actinic keratoses and basal cell carcinomas. We provide an in-depth analysis of the pharmacologic aspects of available topical drugs for the treatment of primary skin tumors. In particular, we evaluate the mechanisms of action, formulations and indications, side effects, and contraindications of 5-fluorouracil, imiquimod, diclofenac, ingenol mebutate, and retinoids. Moreover, the characteristics of some investigational molecules (ie, resiquimod, piroxicam, dobesilate, and betulinic acid) are presented.

Anti-aging cosmetics: facts and controversies

The authors review ageing in its extrinsic and intrinsic mechanisms, as well as the therapies available for improving its effects, and present some of the facts and controversies related to anti-aging cosmetics.

Acid-responsive polymeric nanocarriers for topical adapalene delivery

PURPOSE

The acne skin is characteristic of a relatively lower pH microenvironment compared to the healthy skin. The aim of this work was to utilize such pH discrepancy as a site-specific trigger for on-demand topical adapalene delivery.

METHODS

The anti-acne agent, adapalene, was encapsulated in acid-responsive polymer (Eudragit® EPO) nanocarriers via nanoprecipitation. The nanocarriers were characterized in terms of particle size, surface morphology, drug-carrier interaction, drug release and permeation.

RESULTS

Adapalene experienced a rapid release at pH 4.0 in contrast to that at pH 5.0 and 6.0. The permeation study using silicone membrane revealed a significant higher drug flux from the nanocarrier (6.5 ± 0.6 μg.cm(-2).h(-1)) in comparison to that (3.9 ± 0.4 μg.cm(-2).h(-1)) in the control vehicle (Transcutol®). The in vitro pig skin tape stripping study showed that at 24 h post dose-application the nanocarrier delivered the same amount of drug to the stratum corneum as the positive control vehicle did.

CONCLUSIONS

The acid-responsive nanocarriers hold promise for efficient adapalene delivery and thus improved acne therapy.

Effects of Collagen Tripeptide Supplement on Photoaging and Epidermal Skin Barrier in UVB-exposed Hairless Mice

Collagen tripeptide (CTP) is a functional food material with several biological effects such as improving dry skin and wound and bone fracture healing. This study focused on the anti-photoaging effects of CTP on a hairless mouse model. To evaluate the effects of CTP on UVB-induced skin wrinkle formation in vivo, the hairless mice were exposed to UVB radiation with oral administration of CTP for 14 weeks. Compared with the untreated UVB control group, mice treated with CTP showed significantly reduced wrinkle formation, skin thickening, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Skin hydration and hydroxyproline were increased in the CTP-treated group. Moreover, oral administration of CTP prevented UVB-induced MMP-3 and -13 activities as well as MMP-2 and -9 expressions. Oral administration of CTP increased skin elasticity and decreased abnormal elastic fiber formation. Erythema was also decreased in the CTP-treated group. Taken together, these results strongly suggest that CTP has potential as an anti-photoaging agent.

Retinoic acid signaling pathways in development and diseases

Retinoids comprise a group of compounds each composed of three basic parts: a trimethylated cyclohexene ring that is a bulky hydrophobic group, a conjugated tetraene side chain that functions as a linker unit, and a polar carbon-oxygen functional group. Biochemical conversion of carotenoid or other retinoids to retinoic acid (RA) is essential for normal regulation of a wide range of biological processes including development, differentiation, proliferation, and apoptosis. Retinoids regulate various physiological outputs by binding to nuclear receptors called retinoic acid receptors (RARs) and retinoid X receptors (RXRs), which themselves are DNA-binding transcriptional regulators. The functional response of RA and their receptors are modulated by a host of coactivators and corepressors. Retinoids are essential in the development and function of several organ systems; however, deregulated retinoid signaling can contribute to serious diseases. Several natural and synthetic retinoids are in clinical use or undergoing trials for treating specific diseases including cancer. In this review, we provide a broad overview on the importance of retinoids in development and various diseases, highlighting various retinoids in the drug discovery process, ranging all the way from retinoid chemistry to clinical uses and imaging.

Treatment of capecitabine-induced hand-foot syndrome using a topical retinoid: A case report

Capecitabine is a chemotherapeutic drug used in patients with breast, colon and gastric cancer. Hand-foot syndrome (HFS) is a type of dermatitis that frequently occurs as a reaction to capecitabine. To date, no effective strategies have been found to prevent or reverse HFS. Furthermore, chemotherapy induces an elevation in the expression of heparin-binding epidermal growth factor-like growth factor (HB-EGF), and this activation represents a critical mechanism for the induction of chemotherapeutic resistance. Adapalene is a third-generation synthetic retinoid. Topical retinoids are important therapeutic anti-aging agents for managing photodamaged skin, and are known to increase HB-EGF levels, which is important for skin wound healing. Accordingly, the current report focused on the topical retinoids that increase HB-EGF expression in the skin, and we hypothesized that these topical retinoids induce local chemotherapeutic resistance in the skin of patients receiving chemotherapy and consequently, decrease the cutaneous side-effects of chemotherapy. This report presents a case of the successful treatment of refractory HFS induced by capecitabine using the topical application of adapalene. Topical adapalene was applied for 3 months and significantly reduced inflammation and pain following chemotherapy. Topical retinoids may have the potential to effectively treat capecitabine-induced HFS by increasing HB-EGF expression and decreasing cutaneous side-effects. Further studies are required to establish the therapeutic efficacy of topical retinoids on HFS.

Efficacy of hydroquinone-free skin-lightening cream for photoaging

BACKGROUND

Hyperpigmentation and solar damage remains a difficult problem to treat with topical agents.

AIMS

To evaluate a novel skin-lightening complex (SLC) comprising four actives targeting melanin formation at multiple levels, namely disodium glycerophosphate, L-leucine, phenylethyl resorcinol, and undecylenoyl phenylalanine, in an oil-in-water emulsion cream.

PATIENTS/METHODS

Skin-lightening complex was evaluated in 80 female subjects of skin types I-III with at least moderate mottled hyperpigmentation. After a wash-out period of 1 month with a sunscreen, the subjects added a cream containing the SLC for 12 weeks twice daily to entire face and continued the sunscreen use.

RESULTS

Whereas there was no significant change during the wash-out period, the primary endpoint mottled hyperpigmentation decreased by 32% after the 12-week treatment period with the SLC cream. Secondary endpoints such as severity and number of lentigines, skin tone, and skin brightness also improved. In all, 57% of the subjects showed at least a moderate response, 17% did not improve, and 3% got worse after the treatment.

CONCLUSIONS

The SLC cream was well tolerated, in particular when comparing with exfoliating or peeling agent containing skin-lightening products. When used with a daily sunscreen, this study confirms that the SLC represents an alternative to hydroquinone, retinoids, and many other skin-lightening actives.

Retinoids activate the irritant receptor TRPV1 and produce sensory hypersensitivity

Retinoids are structurally related derivatives of vitamin A and are required for normal vision as well as cell proliferation and differentiation. Clinically, retinoids are effective in treating many skin disorders and cancers. Application of retinoids evokes substantial irritating side effects, including pain and inflammation; however, the precise mechanisms accounting for the sensory hypersensitivity are not understood. Here we show that both naturally occurring and synthetic retinoids activate recombinant or native transient receptor potential channel vanilloid subtype 1 (TRPV1), an irritant receptor for capsaicin, the pungent ingredient of chili peppers. In vivo, retinoids produced pain-related behaviors that were either eliminated or significantly reduced by genetic or pharmacological inhibition of TRPV1 function. These findings identify TRPV1 as an ionotropic receptor for retinoids and provide cellular and molecular insights into retinoid-evoked hypersensitivity. These findings also suggest that selective TRPV1 antagonists are potential therapeutic drugs for treating retinoid-induced sensory hypersensitivity.

The Science and Theory behind Facial Aging

SUMMARY

The etiology of age-related facial changes has many layers. Multiple theories have been presented over the past 50-100 years with an evolution of understanding regarding facial changes related to skin, soft tissue, muscle, and bone. This special topic will provide an overview of the current literature and evidence and theories of facial changes of the skeleton, soft tissues, and skin over time.