The skin aging exposome

Polyoxazolines based mixed micelles as PEG free formulations for an effective quercetin antioxidant topical delivery

This study aims to prove the value of the polyoxazolines polymer family as surfactant in formulations for topical application and as an alternative to PEG overuse. The amphiphilic polyoxazolines (POx) were demonstrated to have less impact on cell viability of mice fibroblasts (NIH3T3) than their PEG counterparts. Mixed micelles, made of POx and phosphatidylcholine, were manufactured using thin film and high pressure homogenizer process. The mixed micelles were optimized to produce nanosized vesicles of about 20 nm with a spherical shape and stable over 28 days. The natural lipophilic antioxidant, quercetin, was successfully encapsulated (encapsulation efficiency 94 ± 4% and drug loading 3.6 ± 0.2%) in the mixed micelles with no morphological variation. Once loaded in the formulation, the quercetin impact on cell viability of NIH3T3 was decreased while its antioxidant activity remained unchanged. This work highlights the capacity of amphiphilic POx to create, in association with phospholipids, stable nanoformulations which show promise for topical delivery of antioxidant and ensure skin protection against oxidative stress.

Environmental Stressors on Skin Aging. Mechanistic Insights

The skin is the main barrier that protects us against environmental stressors (physical, chemical, and biological). These stressors, combined with internal factors, are responsible for cutaneous aging. Furthermore, they negatively affect the skin and increase the risk of cutaneous diseases, particularly skin cancer. This review addresses the impact of environmental stressors on skin aging, especially those related to general and specific external factors (lifestyle, occupation, pollutants, and light exposure). More specifically, we have evaluated ambient air pollution, household air pollutants from non-combustion sources, and exposure to light (ultraviolet radiation and blue and red light). We approach the molecular pathways involved in skin aging and pathology as a result of exposure to these external environmental stressors. Finally, we reflect on how components of environmental stress can interact with ultraviolet radiation to cause cell damage and the critical importance of knowing the mechanisms to develop new therapies to maintain the skin without damage in old age and to repair its diseases.

Inhibitory role of silk cocoon extract against elastase, hyaluronidase and UV radiation-induced matrix metalloproteinase expression in human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes

Topical delivery of potent antioxidants maintain the redox balance of the skin, which leads to the downregulation of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression and prevents UV radiation-induced photoaging. In this study, we aimed at investigating the inhibitory role of silk cocoon extract (SCE) isolated from the Antheraea assamensis (AA), Bombyx mori (BM), and Philosamia ricini (PR) silk varieties against UV radiation-induced MMP expression. Incubation of elastase and hyaluronidase with Antheraea assamensis silk cocoon extract (AASCE) caused 50% inhibition of activity. The assessment of total collagen content using the Sirius red assay showed that AASCE (10 μg mL-1) and Philosamia ricini silk cocoon extract (PRSCE at 100 μg mL-1 concentration) post-treatment significantly enhanced the total collagen content in UVA1 and UVB irradiated HDF cells, whereas BM silk cocoon extract (BMSCE at 100 μg mL-1 concentration) post-treatment significantly enhanced the total collagen content in UVA1-irradiated HDF cells. Gene expression studies revealed AASCE and PRSCE post-treatment downregulated the expression of interleukin (IL)-6, MMP-1 and upregulated procollagen genes in UV irradiated HDF cells. Gelatin zymography studies with AASCE post-treatment downregulated the release of MMP-2 and MMP-9 by HaCaT cells. The overall results validate AASCE efficiently shielding UV radiation-induced collagen and elastin degradation by downregulation of MMP expression, substantiating its further use as a potent antioxidant complement in skin care formulations.

Age related changes in the dermal mast cells and the associated changes in the dermal collagen and cells: A histological and electron microscopy study

Mast cells are widely distributed bone marrow cells. They have a crucial role in the dermal aging process. The aim of the present study was to describe the biochemical and the histological changes that occur in the aged dermal mast cells and to demonstrate the associated changes in the dermal cells and fibers as well. Sixteen male albino rats were used and divided into two groups; the control group (8-10 weeks) and the aged group (20-22 weeks). The rats were decapitated then processed for further biochemical and histological studies. The mean area fraction for collagen fibers was measured. In the aged group, there was a significant increase in the skin histamine and heparin levels if compared with the control one. Furthermore, there was an apparent increase in intact and degranulated dermal mast cells if compared with the control one. The dermal collagen bundles were apparently decreased and appeared distorted with wide spacing. Additionally, there were apparently large sized eosinophils with more cytoplasmic granules. Direct contact between mast, fibroblast, and macrophage cells was noticed. The average area fraction of collagen fibers was significantly increased in the aged group if compared with the control one. It could be concluded that the secretory activity of dermal mast cells was significantly increased in the aged skin group. Also, this study demonstrated the implicated role of mast cell in aged skin changes. Further long-term studies are needed to validate the prophylactic or therapeutic potential by intentional hindering of mast cell degranulation in aged skin.

Aging in skin of color

Ethnic skin is quickly emerging as the norm in the United States, and as the population becomes more diverse, there is also a projected rise in the number of aging adults. Given the paucity of data regarding aging in ethnic skin, the authors have consolidated available information for this population. Literature examining structural and functional variation of aging in ethnic skin types was primarily found through PubMed and supplemental textbook chapters. Aging is comprised of two synergistic processes, intrinsic or chronologic aging, and extrinsic aging. Caucasian, African American, East Asian, and Hispanic skin each have distinguishing features of aging, but all populations share dyspigmentation, rhytides, and skin laxity. Increased melanin content predisposes skin of color to a greater degree of hyperpigmentation, but skin thickness may protect against the formation of rhytides. Tailored prevention and treatment are also paramount in attaining favorable outcomes for this growing cohort.

Well-aging: A new strategy for skin homeostasis under multi-stressed conditions

Background

Several studies evidenced significant increase of cortisol is the consequence of UV or emotional stress and leads to various deleterious effects in the skin.

Aim

The well‐aging, a new concept of lifestyle, procures an alternative to the anti‐aging strategy. We demonstrated that Tephrosia purpurea extract is able to stimulate well‐being hormones while reducing cortisol release. Furthermore, we hypothesized that the extract could positively influence the global skin homeostasis.

Method

We evaluated the impact of the extract on cortisol, β‐endorphin, and dopamine, released by normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). A gene expression study was realized on NHEKs and NHDFs. The protein over‐expression of HMOX1 and NQO1 was evidenced at cellular and tissue level. Finally, we conducted a clinical study on 21 women living in a polluted environment in order to observe the impact of the active on global skin improvement.

Results

The extract is able to reduce significantly the cortisol release while inducing the production of β‐endorphin and dopamine. The gene expression study revealed that Tephrosia purpurea extract up‐regulated the genes involved in antioxidant response and skin renewal. Moreover, the induction of HMOX and NQO1 expression was confirmed on NHDFs, NHEKs and in RHE. We clinically demonstrated that the extract improved significantly the skin by reducing dark circles, represented by an improvement of L*, a*, and ITA parameters.

Conclusion

Tephrosia purpurea extract has beneficial effects on skin homeostasis through control of the well‐being state and antioxidant defenses leading to an improvement of dark circles, a clinical features particularly impacted by emotional and environmental stress.

Disposable Potentiometric Sensory System for Skin Antioxidant Activity Evaluation

The skin is a natural barrier between the external and internal environment. Its protective functions and the relationship of its state with the state of health of the organism as a whole are very important. It is known that oxidant stress (OS) is a common indicator of health status. This paper describes a new sensory system for monitoring OS of the skin using antioxidant activity (AOA) as its criteria. The contact hybrid potentiometric method (CHPM) and new electrochemical measuring scheme were used. A new sensory system, including disposable modified screen-printed carbon and silver electrodes covered by membrane impregnated by mediator, was developed. Its informative ability was demonstrated in the evaluation of the impact of fasting, consumption of food and food enriched by vitamins (antioxidants) on skin AOA. This device consisting of a sensory system and potentiometric analyzer can be used in on-site and in situ formats.

Bio-derived hydroxystearic acid ameliorates skin age spots and conspicuous pores

INTRODUCTION

We report on the preparation and efficacy of 10-hydroxystearic acid (HSA) that improves facial age spots and conspicuous pores.

METHODS

The hydration of oleic acid into HSA was catalyzed by the oleate hydratase from Escherichia coli. Following treatment with HSA, collagen type I and type III was assessed in primary human dermal fibroblasts together with collagen type III, p53 protein levels and sunburn cells (SBC) after UVB irradiation (1 J cm^-2 ) by immunohistochemistry on human ex vivo skin. UVB-induced expression of matrix metalloprotease-1 (MMP-1) was determined from full thickness skin by RT-qPCR. Modification of the fibroblast secretome by HSA was studied by mass-spectrometry-based proteomics. In a full-face, double blind, vehicle-controlled trial HSA was assessed for its effects on conspicuous facial pore size and degree of pigmentation of age spots in Caucasian women over an 8-week period.

RESULTS

HSA was obtained in enantiomeric pure, high yield (≥80%). Collagen type I and type III levels were dose-dependently increased (96% and 244%; P < 0.01) in vitro and collagen type III in ex vivo skin by +57% (P < 0.01) by HSA. HSA also inhibited UVB-induced MMP-1 gene expression (83%; P < 0.01) and mitigated SBC induction (-34% vs. vehicle control) and reduced significantly UV-induced p53 up-regulation (-46% vs. vehicle control; P < 0.01) in irradiated skin. HSA modified the fibroblast secretome with significant increases in proteins associated with the WNT pathway that could reduce melanogenesis and proteins that could modify dermal fibroblast activity and keratinocyte differentiation to account for the alleviation of conspicuous pores. Docking studies in silico and EC50 determination in reporter gene assays (EC50 5.5 × 10^-6  M) identified HSA as a peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor-α (PPARα) agonist. Clinically, HSA showed a statistically significant decrease of surface and volume of skin pores (P < 0.05) after 8 weeks of application and age spots became significantly less pigmented than the surrounding skin (contrast, P < 0.05) after 4 weeks.

CONCLUSION

HSA acts as a PPARα agonist to reduce the signs of age spots and conspicuous pores by significantly modulating the expression of p53, SBC, MMP-1 and collagen together with major changes in secreted proteins that modify keratinocyte, melanocyte and fibroblast cell behavior.

Skin protective effects of an antipollution, antioxidant serum containing Deschampsia antartica extract, ferulic acid and vitamin C: a controlled single-blind, prospective trial in women living in urbanized, high air pollution area

Introduction: Air pollution causes skin damage and favors skin aging processes such as dark spots and wrinkles, through oxidative stress. Pollutant substances accelerate skin aging through a specific activation of intracellular receptors called AhR (aryl-hydrocarbon receptors). Deschampsia antartica aqueous extract (DAE) has shown to counteract the pollutant-induced AhR activation. Ferulic acid (FA) and vitamin C (VC) are potent antioxidant substances. A serum containing DAE/FA/VC has been recently developed. So far, no clinical data are available regarding the protective actions of this serum against the detrimental effects of air pollution on the skin. Objective: We conducted a prospective, single-blind, 28-day study to assess efficacy and protective effects against air pollution skin damage of a new serum containing Deschampsia antartica extract. Materials and methods: Twenty, photo type I-III, women (mean age 42 years) with at least three dark spots on the face, living in a homogenous urbanized, high pollution area (Rome) were evaluated. The objectives of the study were to evaluate the effects of treatment on skin barrier function, assessed by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement (Tewameter), the effect on dark spots, evaluated by means of colorimetry (Colorimeter CL 400), and the effect on squalene peroxide (SQOOH)/squalene (SQ) skin ratio assessed with face swabs. Results: The trial was conducted between November 20 and December 19, 2018. In comparison with baseline, the product induced a significant improvement of skin hydration (-19% of TEWL), a significant improvement of dark spots (+7%) and a significant improvement of SQOOH/SQ ratio (-16%). The product was evaluated very well by >90% of the treated subjects regarding cosmetic acceptability. Discussion: A serum containing DAE/FA/VC has shown to improve skin barrier function, to reduce dark spots and to counteract the skin oxidative stress in women living in high pollution urban area.

Polar lipids from wheat extract oil improve skin damages induced by aging: Evidence from a randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial in women and an ex vivo study on human skin explant

BACKGROUND

Polar lipids from wheat (Triticum vulgare/aestivum) extract oil (WEO) are known to improve skin hydration.

AIMS

These studies aimed to assess WEO benefits on the skin appearance of middle-aged women.

METHODS

A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical study was carried out on 64 healthy women, aged from 45 to 60 years, to investigate antiaging effects and benefits for the skin. The study lasted 20 weeks including 12 weeks of oral supplementation with WEO or placebo and 8 weeks of follow-up. Wrinkles in the "crow's-feet" area were evaluated by the Lemperle score. Skin hydration was measured using a corneometer, while roughness and radiance were determined by clinical scoring. Collagen content was quantified in human skin explants exposed to ultraviolet (UV) irradiations and treated with WEO or vehicle control.

RESULTS

Compared to the placebo group, the Lemperle score was significantly reduced in the WEO group between W0 and W8 to reach a clinically significant 1 grade at W12. Facial hydration was significantly improved in the WEO group from W0 to W12, whereas leg hydration was significantly increased after 4 weeks and lasted throughout the supplementation period. Skin roughness and radiance were also significantly improved from W0 to W8 in the WEO group compared to placebo group. A higher collagen content was measured in the UV-irradiated skin explants treated with WEO compared to the untreated ones.

CONCLUSION

These results confirmed the moisturizing effect of WEO and, for the first time, revealed its potential antiaging properties.

The impact of airborne pollution on skin

Indoor and outdoor airborne pollutants modify our environment and represent a growing threat to human health worldwide. Airborne pollution effects on respiratory and cardiac health and diseases have been well established, but its impact on skin remains poorly described. Nonetheless, the skin is one of the main targets of pollutants, which reach the superficial and deeper skin layers by transcutaneous and systemic routes. In this review, we report the outcomes of basic and clinical research studies monitoring pollutant levels in human tissues including the skin and hair. We present a current understanding of the biochemical and biophysical effects of pollutants on skin metabolism, inflammatory processes and oxidative stress, with a focus on polyaromatic hydrocarbons and ground-level ozone that are widespread outdoor pollutants whose effects are mostly studied. We reviewed the literature to report the clinical effects of pollutants on skin health and skin ageing and their impact on some chronic inflammatory skin diseases. We also discuss the potential interactions of airborne pollutants with either ultraviolet radiation or human skin microbiota and their specific impact on skin health.

Mass spectrometry-based proteomics reveals the distinct nature of the skin proteomes of photoaged compared to intrinsically aged skin

OBJECTIVE

With increasing age, skin is subject to alterations in its organization, which impact on its function as well as having clinical consequences. Proteomics is a useful tool for non-targeted, semi-quantitative simultaneous investigation of high numbers of proteins. In the current study, we utilize proteomics to characterize and contrast age-associated differences in photoexposed and photoprotected skin, with a focus on the epidermis, dermal-epidermal junction and papillary dermis.

METHODS

Skin biopsies from buttock (photoprotected) and forearm (photoexposed) of healthy volunteers (aged 18-30 or ≥65 years) were transversely sectioned from the stratum corneum to a depth of 250 μm. Following SDS-PAGE, each sample lane was segmented prior to analysis by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry/mass spectrometry. Pathway analysis was carried out using Ingenuity IPA.

RESULTS

Comparison of skin proteomes at buttock and forearm sites revealed differences in relative protein abundance. Ageing in skin on the photoexposed forearm resulted in 80% of the altered proteins being increased with age, in contrast to the photoprotected buttock where 74% of altered proteins with age were reduced. Functionally, age-altered proteins in the photoexposed forearm were associated with conferring structure, energy and metabolism. In the photoprotected buttock, proteins associated with gene expression, free-radical scavenging, protein synthesis and protein degradation were most frequently altered.

CONCLUSION

This study highlights the necessity of not considering photoageing as an accelerated intrinsic ageing, but as a distinct physiological process.

Ageing of the somatosensory system at the periphery: age-related changes in cutaneous mechanoreceptors

Decline of tactile sensation associated with ageing depends on modifications in skin and both central and peripheral nervous systems. At present, age-related changes in the periphery of the somatosensory system, particularly concerning the effects on mechanoreceptors, remain unknown. Here we used immunohistochemistry to analyse the age-dependent changes in Meissner's and Pacinian corpuscles as well as in Merkel cell-neurite complexes. Moreover, variations in the neurotrophic TrkB-BDNF system and the mechanoprotein Piezo2 (involved in maintenance of cutaneous mechanoreceptors and light touch, respectively) were evaluated. The number of Meissner's corpuscles and Merkel cells decreased progressively with ageing. Meissner's corpuscles were smaller, rounded in morphology and located deeper in the dermis, and signs of corpuscular denervation were found in the oldest subjects. Pacinian corpuscles generally showed no relevant age-related alterations. Reduced expression of Piezo2 in the axon of Meissner's corpuscles and in Merkel cells was observed in old subjects, as well was a decline in the BDNF-TrkB neurotrophic system. This study demonstrates that cutaneous Meissner's corpuscles and Merkel cell-neurite complexes (and less evidently Pacinian corpuscles) undergo morphological and size changes during the ageing process, as well as a reduction in terms of density. Furthermore, the mechanoprotein Piezo2 and the neurotrophic TrkB-BDNF system are reduced in aged corpuscles. Taken together, these alterations might explain part of the impairment of the somatosensory system associated with ageing.

Pollution and Sun Exposure: A Deleterious Synergy. Mechanisms and Opportunities for Skin Protection

BACKGROUND

Pollutants are diverse chemical entities, including gases such as ozone and particulate matter PM. PM contains toxic chemicals such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). Some PAHs can induce strong oxidative stress under UVA exposure. Pollution aggravates some skin diseases such as atopy or eczema, but epidemiological data also pointed to a correlation with early occurrence of (photo)-aging markers.

OBJECTIVE

This paper aims at reviewing current literature dealing with dermatological effects of pollution, either on in vitro models or using in vivo approaches (including humans). It particularly focuses on the probable deleterious synergy between pollutants and sunlight.

RESULTS

An exhaustive analysis of literature suggests that skin may be impacted by external stress through oxidation of some of its surface components. However, pollutants detected in plasma may also be provided to deep skin by the circulation of the blood. Oxidative stress, inflammation and metabolic impairments are among the most probable mechanisms of pollution- derived dermatological hazards. Moreover these stresses should be amplified by the deleterious synergy between pollution and sunlight. Some experiments from our lab identified few PAHs inducing a huge toxic stress, at nanomolar concentrations, when exposed to long UVA wavelengths. Prevention strategies should thus combine surface protection (long UVA sunscreens, antioxidants) and enhanced skin tissue resistance through stimulation of the natural antioxidation/detoxification pathway Nrf2.

CONCLUSION

In people exposed to highly polluted environments, pollutants and sunlight may synergistically damage skin, requiring a specific protection.

Skin Aging Estimation Scheme Based on Lifestyle and Dermoscopy Image Analysis

Besides genetic characteristics, people also undergo a process of skin aging under the influence of diverse factors such as sun exposure, food intake, sleeping patterns, and drinking habits, which are closely related to their personal lifestyle. So far, many studies have been conducted to analyze skin conditions quantitatively. However, to describe the current skin condition or predict future skin aging effectively, we need to understand the correlation between skin aging and lifestyle. In this study, we first demonstrate how to trace people’s skin condition accurately using scale-invariant feature transform and the color histogram intersection method. Then, we show how to estimate skin texture aging depending on the lifestyle by considering various features from face, neck, and hand dermoscopy images. Lastly, we describe how to predict future skin conditions in terms of skin texture features. Based on the Pearson correlation, we describe the correlation between skin aging and lifestyle, and estimate skin aging according to lifestyle using the polynomial regression and support vector regression models. We evaluate the performance of our proposed scheme through various experiments.

The Anti-Aging Potential of Extracts from Chaenomeles sinensis

The Chaenomeles sinensis fruit is used as an effective antitussive agent, analgesic, and diuretic in traditional Chinese medicine. It has been reported that C. sinensis fruit extracts have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects. However, there are very few reports about the effects of C. sinensis extracts on skin. In this study, we investigated the effect of C. sinensis extracts on skin aging. The results of in vitro assays showed that whole fruit extracts of C. sinensis had superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity and inhibited the activity of dermal extracellular matrix proteases: Elastase and collagenase. The inhibitory effect of the whole fruit (containing seeds) extract on elastase activity was higher than that of the sarcocarp (seeds removed) extract. Further, the sarcocarp extract showed a higher level of SOD-like activity and a greater inhibitory effect on collagenase activity than the whole fruit extract. In particular, among the three activities studied, the sarcocarp extract showed the most significant inhibitory effect on collagenase activity at low concentrations. The polyphenol-rich fraction obtained from the sarcocarp showed significant collagenase inhibition. Based on these results, we concluded that phenolic compounds from C. sinensis sarcocarp have the potential to protect against skin aging through anti-collagenase activity.

Tropospheric ozone and skin aging: Results from two German cohort studies

During the last two decades, it has been well established that a short-term exposure to ozone (O₃) elicits an oxidative stress response in human and mouse skin, which leads to aberrant transcriptional expression of genes consistent with increased skin aging. Whether a long-term exposure to ambient O₃ is associated with any skin aging traits, has remained unclear. We addressed this question in two elderly German cohorts: the SALIA study (806 women aged 66-79 years), and the BASE-II study (1207 men and women aged 60-84 years). Five-year mean residential exposure to O₃ was modeled as the number of days with maximum daily 8-h mean O₃ concentrations ≥120 μg/m³ per year in the wider neighborhood (5-digit postcode) of a participant's residence. Extrinsic (environmentally induced) skin aging traits - coarse wrinkles and pigment spots (lentigines) on the face - were assessed by means of SCINEXA™, a validated visual score previously shown to be well suited to measure extrinsic facial skin aging in cohort studies. We observed positive associations of O₃ exceedances with coarse wrinkles in the face, but not with pigment spots. These associations were present in each cohort as well as in the combined sample of both cohorts. They were independent of chronic ultraviolet radiation exposure as the most obvious confounder, and also of co-pollutants such as particulate matter and nitrogen dioxide. Thus, long-term exposure to elevated concentrations of tropospheric O₃ appears to contribute to skin aging.

Photoprotection of Cerium Oxide Nanoparticles against UVA radiation-induced Senescence of Human Skin Fibroblasts due to their Antioxidant Properties

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, particularly ultraviolet A (UVA), stimulates reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in the epidermis and dermis, which plays a major part in the photoageing of human skin. Several studies have demonstrated that cerium oxide nanoparticles (CeO2 NP) can exhibit an antioxidant effect and free radical scavenging activity. However, the protective role of CeO2 NP in skin photoageing and the underlying mechanisms are unclear. In this study, we investigated the effects of CeO2 NP on UVA-irradiated human skin fibroblasts (HSFs) and explored the potential signalling pathway. CeO2 NP had no apparent cytotoxicity, and could reduce the production of proinflammatory cytokines, intracellular ROS, senescence-associated β-galactosidase activity, and downregulate phosphorylation of c-Jun N-terminal kinases (JNKs) after exposure to UVA radiation. Based on our findings, CeO2 NPs have great potential against UVA radiation-induced photoageing in HSFs via regulating the JNK signal-transduction pathway to inhibit oxidative stress and DNA damage.

Topical effects of SCA® (Cryptomphalus aspersa secretion) associated with regenerative and antioxidant ingredients on aged skin: evaluation by confocal and clinical microscopy

Purpose

This was an open-label, single-center clinical study to evaluate a topical association of SCA^® (Cryptomphalus aspersa secretion) with regenerative and antioxidant ingredients, according to the type and area of the face, on the improvement of signs of skin aging.

Patients and methods

One hundred and twenty female participants aged between 40 and 65 years, with facial aging complaints (presence of static, dynamics wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and skin firmness) were randomized into two groups according to the type of skin: normal–oily and normal–dry, and 40 participants were randomized for evaluation of the periocular area (with the presence of wrinkles, expression lines, and dark circles) with both types of skin. The groups received serum for normal–oily skin, a cream for normal–dry skin, and a cream for periocular and eyelid skin (eye area). All the participants were evaluated by a dermatologist and submitted to hydration evaluation by corneometry, elasticity and firmness measures complementarily, and images were collected in confocal reflectance microscopy.

Results

Topical skin treatment with the association of SCA with antioxidant ingredients (green coffee oil, olive oil, ectoine, hyaluronic acid, and peptides) was able to promote significant clinical and subjective improvement of all signs of skin aging. This improvement was presented at the epidermal level, with improved hydration levels measured by corneometry and epidermal thickness, and at the dermal level, with improvement of the firmness and elasticity parameters, measured by cutometry, from 45 days of use.

Conclusion

All the evaluated topical formulations seemed to be an effective alternative for the progressive treatment of signs of skin aging, since they demonstrate a real improvement of dermal–epidermal structure and function with high safety margin for long-term use.

Prediction of skin anti-aging clinical benefits of an association of ingredients from marine and maritime origins: Ex vivo evaluation using a label-free quantitative proteomic and customized data processing approach

BACKGROUND

The application of ingredients from marine and maritime origins is increasingly common in skin care products, driven by consumer expectations for natural ingredients. However, these ingredients are typically studied for a few isolated in vitro activities.

OBJECTIVES

The purpose of this study was to carry out a comprehensive evaluation of the activity on the skin of an association of ingredients from marine and maritime origins using label-free quantitative proteomic analysis, in order to predict the clinical benefits if used in a skin care product.

METHODS

An aqueous gel containing 6.1% of ingredients from marine and maritime origins (amino acid-enriched giant kelp extract, trace element-enriched seawater, dedifferentiated sea fennel cells) was topically applied on human skin explants. The skin explants' proteome was analyzed in a label-free manner by high-performance liquid nano-chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry. A specific data processing pipeline (CORAVALID) providing an objective and comprehensive interpretation of the statistically relevant biological activities processed the results.

RESULTS

Compared to untreated skin explants, 64 proteins were significantly regulated by the gel treatment (q-value ≤ 0.05). Computer data processing revealed an activity of the ingredients on the epidermis and the dermis. These significantly regulated proteins are involved in gene expression, cell survival and metabolism, inflammatory processes, dermal extracellular matrix synthesis, melanogenesis and keratinocyte proliferation, migration, and differentiation.

CONCLUSIONS

These results suggest that the tested ingredients could help to preserve a healthy epidermis and dermis, and possibly to prevent the visible signs of skin aging.

A new procedure, free from human assessment that automatically grades some facial skin structural signs. Comparison with assessments by experts, using referential atlases of skin ageing

OBJECTIVE

To develop an automatic system that grades the severity of facial signs through 'selfies' pictures taken by women of different ages and ethnics.

METHODS

1140 women from three ethnics (African-American, Asian, Caucasian), of different ages (18-80 years old), took 'selfies' by high resolution smartphones cameras under different conditions of lighting or facial expressions. A dedicated software, was developed, based on a Convolutional Neural Network (CNN) that integrates training data from referential Skin Aging Atlases. The latter allows to an immediate quantification of the severity of nine facial signs according to the ethnicity declared by the subject. These automatic grading were confronted to those assessed by 12 trained experts and dermatologists either on 'selfies' pictures or in live conditions on a smaller cohort of women.

RESULTS

The system appears weakly influenced by lighting conditions or facial expressions (coefficients of variations ranging 10-13% for most signs) and leads to global agreements with experts' assessments, even showing a better reproducibility on some facial signs.

CONCLUSION

This automatic scoring system, still in development, seems offering a new quantitative approach in the quantified description of facial signs, independent from human vision, in many applications, being individual, cosmetic oriented or dermatological with regard to the follow-up of medical anti-ageing corrective strategies.

Skin damage by tropospheric ozone

Tropospheric (ground level) ozone (O3) is a secondary pollutant, emerging from other pollutants in the sunshine. Exposure to O3 correlates with higher pulmonary and cardiovascular mortality and affects reproductive health and the central nervous system acutely and chronically. Skin might be a potentially overlooked target organ of ambient O3. The experimental evidence suggests a positive correlation of O3 exposure with oxidative damage, impaired antioxidant defence and proinflammatory response in the skin. In time series studies it was observed that acute rises in O3 levels correlated with seeking medical help for skin conditions; however, whether these findings are specific to O3, is not yet clear. There is preliminary epidemiological evidence that long-term exposure to O3 is associated with premature skin aging. This finding was independent of co-exposure to other environmental factors affecting skin (e.g. ultraviolet radiation and air pollution). As concentrations of O3 are rising in many regions of the world, adverse cutaneous effects of O3 present a relevant public health concern.

Cytoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties of high-molecular-weight hyaluronan enriched with red orange extract in human fibroblasts exposed to ultra violet light B irradiation

Ultraviolet (UV) light exposure is the primary factor responsible for skin photoaging, affecting all the skin layers, mainly through the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), activation of inflammatory responses, and apoptosis. In keeping with this evidence, exogenous supplementation with dietary antioxidants has been shown to provide photoprotective benefits. Moreover, oral administration of hyaluronic acid (HA) has been proved to reduce the signs of aged skin, such as wrinkles, and increase hydration and elasticity. The combination of different biologically active substances in order to slow down the onset of skin aging could represent a promising preventive strategy against photoaging. In the present study, we investigated the effects of a dietary supplement (IALUTEC^® RED), consisting of high-molecular-weight HA (HMW-HA) combined with red orange extract (ROC-Red Orange Complex^® ), in human fibroblasts exposed to ultra violet light B-induced oxidative stress. Our study suggests that, in fibroblasts exposed to UVB light, IALUTEC^® RED is active in decreasing both the inflammatory response and the generation of ROS, two events that are involved in skin photoaging.

Skin Changes During Ageing

The skin provides the primary protection for the body against external injuries and is essential in the maintenance of general homeostasis. During ageing, resident cells become senescent and the extracellular matrix, mainly in the dermis, is progressively damaged affecting the normal organization of the skin and its capacity for repair. In parallel, extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet irradiation, pollution, and intrinsic factors such as diabetes or vascular disease can further accelerate this phenomenon. Indeed, numerous mechanisms are involved in age-induced degradation of the skin and these also relate to non-healing or chronic wounds in the elderly. In particular, the generation of reactive oxygen species seems to play a major role in age-related skin modifications. Certainly, targeting both the hormonal status of the skin or its surface nutrition can slow down age-induced degradation of the skin and improve healing of skin damage in the elderly. Skin care regimens that prevent radiation and pollution damage, and reinforce the skin surface and its microbiota are among the different approaches able to minimize the effects of ageing on the skin.

Epigenetic Regulation of Skin Cells in Natural Aging and Premature Aging Diseases

Skin undergoes continuous renewal throughout an individual’s lifetime relying on stem cell functionality. However, a decline of the skin regenerative potential occurs with age. The accumulation of senescent cells over time probably reduces tissue regeneration and contributes to skin aging. Keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts undergo senescence in response to several intrinsic or extrinsic stresses, including telomere shortening, overproduction of reactive oxygen species, diet, and sunlight exposure. Epigenetic mechanisms directly regulate skin homeostasis and regeneration, but they also mark cell senescence and the natural and pathological aging processes. Progeroid syndromes represent a group of clinical and genetically heterogeneous pathologies characterized by the accelerated aging of various tissues and organs, including skin. Skin cells from progeroid patients display molecular hallmarks that mimic those associated with naturally occurring aging. Thus, investigations on progeroid syndromes strongly contribute to disclose the causal mechanisms that underlie the aging process. In the present review, we discuss the role of epigenetic pathways in skin cell regulation during physiologic and premature aging.

Protective effects of a novel facial cream against environmental pollution: in vivo and in vitro assessment

Background

The effects of pollution on health have received increasing attention in recent years. Extrinsic skin aging occurs via multiple processes, and pollution is now recognized as a major component, causing increased pigmentation and wrinkles via oxidative mechanisms. We tested the antipollution efficacy of a cosmetic facial cream (FC) by assessing its effects on carbon particle adhesion to skin and on oxidative and inflammatory pathways in the skin.

Methods

In an in vivo study, FC was applied once to the forearms of healthy subjects. Carbon E153 powder was applied, and the skin was washed under standardized conditions. Images were taken using a dermoscope to determine the area of particle adherence. Each participant served as their own control, with the contralateral forearm being untreated with the FC but otherwise following the same protocol. In a 5-day ex vivo study, skin explants were treated with the FC daily and exposed to vaporized pollutants on day 2 and day 4 via a closed system. Explants were sampled at baseline and day 5 and culture media on day 5. The parameters evaluated were cellular viability on microscopy, Nrf2 immunostaining, malondialdehyde (MDA) levels in culture, melanin levels, and gene expression profile (TYR, IL6, and CYP1A1).

Results

In the in vivo adhesion study, after standardized washing, carbon particle deposition on skin treated with the FC was significantly lower than that on untreated skin. In the ex vivo study, samples treated with the FC had reduced Nrf2 staining and MDA levels vs polluted controls. Melanin did not change significantly. The FC modulated pollution-induced increases in CYP1A1, IL-6, and TYR.

Conclusion

This FC reduces particle adhesion to skin after a single application and protects against pollution-induced oxidative and inflammatory pathways in the skin.

Homeostasis in Topical Photoprotection: Getting the Spectral Balance Right

The solar radiation range has harmful and beneficial effects. Sunscreens, which selectively block specific spectral regions, may potentially interfere with skin homeostasis. For instance, the ultraviolet (UV) B waveband produces erythema and DNA damage; simultaneously, it induces pre-vitamin D₃ synthesis. UVA1 and visible light can both induce pigmentation in skin phototypes IV–VI, and act in synergy to induce erythema and persistent pigment darkening. In contrast, UVA may contribute to blood pressure control and cardioprotection by inducing release of nitric oxide from intracutaneous photolabile nitric oxide derivatives. Finally, infrared A radiation alters the collagen equilibrium of the dermal extracellular matrix but is involved in the regulation of body temperature and in nitric oxide release, with a potential beneficial impact on blood pressure regulation. Ideally, photoprotection should thus be performed with a neutral density filter, mitigating all radiation ranges homogeneously, to maintain solar spectrum homeostasis. Natural compounds such as mycosporine-like amino acids are promising natural UV radiation-filtering compounds for an improved homeostasis with our environment. Lastly, we should not forget individual characteristics and behavior, as homeostasis differs according to individual phototypes and skin exposure behaviors.

Appearance of aging signs in differently pigmented facial skin by a novel imaging system

Background

Facial wrinkles, pores, and uneven skin tone are major beauty concerns. There is differential manifestation of aging signs in different ethnic groups. In this regard, studies on Black Africans from the African continent are scarce.

Objective

To investigate facial wrinkles, pores, and skin tone in Black African women from Mauritius Island and elucidate the differences to Caucasian women from France.

Methods

Facial images were taken using the imaging system ColorFace^®. Wrinkles and pores were measured by their length, depth, surface, volume, and number; for skin tone, we measured L*a*b* and calculated ITA, IWA_Newtone, and color homogeneity.

Results

We found good correlations of wrinkle and pore scores with expert ranking done on ColorFace^® images for Caucasians (Spearman's rho = 0.78 and 0.72) and Black Africans (Spearman's rho = 0.86 and 0.65). Caucasians showed more advanced facial signs of aging than Black Africans. Exceptions were vertical lines on upper lip and the depth of pores which were greatest for the Black African subjects. Black Africans had higher heterogeneity scores indicative for uneven skin tone. Luminance (L*) was significantly higher in Caucasians but a* and b* values were significantly higher in the Black African subjects. ITA and IWA_Newtone were significantly higher for Caucasians.

Conclusions

The high correlation between expert ranking and wrinkle and pore measurements prove ColorFace^® a valid imaging system to study skin aging. Our results show that Africans from the African continent show delayed signs of aging compared to Caucasians. Some exceptions suggest that ethnic differences in facial aging are a complex phenomenon.

Beyond photoaging: additional factors involved in the process of skin aging

Studies assessing the impact of extrinsic factors on skin aging have increased during the last with the increase in life expectancy. Although most of the studies are about the sun radiation impact, many factors should be considered in elderly people, beyond environmental conditions. Lifestyle factors, like diet, sleeping, smoking, should be analyzed carefully, as common age-related conditions (menopause, diabetes, pulmonary diseases, etc.). All these factors could accelerate the natural decline of skin structure and functions, possibly affecting the responses to treatments and drugs. This review demonstrates that growing evidence regarding environmental factors that are associated with lifestyle and comorbidities deserve greater attention from researchers and dermatologists and may require new approaches in the management of skin aging.

Anti-aging Effects of Select Botanicals: Scientific Evidence and Current Trends

As skin ages, there is a decline in physiologic function. These changes are induced by both intrinsic (chronologic) and extrinsic (predominately UV-induced) factors. Botanicals offer potential benefits to combat some of the signs of aging. Here, we review select botanicals and the scientific evidence behind their anti-aging claims. Botanicals may offer anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturizing, UV-protective, and other effects. A multitude of botanicals are listed as ingredients in popular cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, but only a select few are discussed here. These were chosen based on the availability of scientific data, personal interest of the authors, and perceived “popularity” of current cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. The botanicals reviewed here include argan oil, coconut oil, crocin, feverfew, green tea, marigold, pomegranate, and soy.

Air Pollution, Autophagy, and Skin Aging: Impact of Particulate Matter (PM10) on Human Dermal Fibroblasts

A World Health Organization (WHO) report from 2016 states that over 3 million people die annually from air pollution, which places air pollution as the world's largest single environmental health risk factor. Particulate matter (PM) is one of the main components of air pollution, and there is increasing evidence that PM exposure exerts negative effects on the human skin. To see the impact of air pollution on skin aging, we analyzed the effect of PM exposure on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) with Western blot, enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA), and gene analysis. Cultured HDFs were exposed to PM₁₀ at a concentration of 30 µg/cm² for 24 h, and their gene/protein expression of inflammatory cytokines, fibroblast chemical mediators, and autophagy were assessed. A total of 1977 genes were found to be differentially expressed following PM exposure. We observed a significantly increased expression of pro-inflammatory genes interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6, IL-8 and IL-33 in dermal fibroblasts exposed to PM₁₀. Protein expression of IL-6 and IL-8 also significantly increased, which complemented our gene analysis results. In addition, there was a significant increase in cytochrome P450 (CYP1A1, CYP1B1), matrix metalloproteinase (MMP-1, MMP-3) mRNA expression, and significant decrease in transforming growth factor (TGF)-β, collagen type I alpha chain (COL1A1, COL1A2), and elastin (ELN) mRNA expression in PM-exposed dermal fibroblasts. Protein expression of MMP-1 was significantly increased and that of TGF-β and procollagen profoundly decreased, similar to the gene analysis results. Autophagy, an integrated cellular stress response, was also increased while transmission electron microscopy (TEM) analysis provided evidence of PM internalization in the autolysosomes. Taken together, our results demonstrate that PM₁₀ contributes to skin inflammation and skin aging via impaired collagen synthesis. Increased autophagy in our study suggests a reparative role of autophagy in HDFs stressed with PM, but its biological significance requires further research.

Crocin, a natural molecule with potentially beneficial effects against skin ageing

OBJECTIVE

Oxidative stress and low-grade chronic inflammation stand out as key features of physiological skin ageing. The aim of this study was to examine in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) grown in vitro, the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of crocin, a carotenoid glycoside responsible for the colour of saffron. Moreover, considering the newly emerging field of skin glycobiology and the presence of two gentiobiosyl moieties in crocin, the effect of crocin on NHEK glycosylation pathways was for the first time investigated.

METHODS

The anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities of crocin were evaluated by in vitro assays of antioxidation activities, ELISA and microarray analysis. The effect of crocin on keratinocyte glycobiology was evaluated by proprietary GLYcoDiag lectin technologies and microarray analysis.

RESULTS

Crocin is endowed with antioxidant potential against reactive oxygen species, protects squalene against UVA-induced peroxidation and prevents the release of inflammatory mediators. The expression of NF-kB-related genes and glycosylation-related genes is modulated in the presence of crocin.

CONCLUSION

Results could designate this molecule as a promising skin ageing prevention cosmetic agent. Of note, some of these effects could be mediated by protein O-glycosylation and interaction of crocin with osidic receptors of keratinocytes.

Gromwell (Lithospermum erythrorhizon) root extract protects against glycation and related inflammatory and oxidative stress while offering UV absorption capability

Glycation and advanced glycation end products (AGE) damage skin which is compounded by AGE-induced oxidative stress and inflammation. Lip and facial skin could be susceptible to glycation damage as they are chronically stressed. As Gromwell (Lithospermum erythrorhizon) root (GR) has an extensive traditional medicine history that includes providing multiple skin benefits, our objective was to determine whether GR extract and its base naphthoquinone, shikonin, might protect skin by inhibiting glycation, increasing oxidative defenses, suppressing inflammatory responses and offering ultraviolet (UV) absorptive potential in lip and facial cosmetic matrices. We show GR extract and shikonin dose-dependently inhibited glycation and enhanced oxidative defenses through nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)/antioxidant response element activation. Inflammatory targets, nuclear factor kappa-light-chain-enhancer of activated B cells (NFκB) and tumor necrosis factor alpha, were suppressed by GR extract and shikonin. Glyoxalase 1 (GLO1) and glutathione synthesis genes were significantly upregulated by GR extract and shikonin. GR extract boosted higher wavelength UV absorption in select cosmetic matrices. Rationale for the use of GR extract and shikonin are supported by our research. By inhibiting glycation, modulating oxidative stress, suppressing inflammation and UV-absorptive properties, GR extract and shikonin potentially offer multiple skin benefits.

Involvement of the nuclear structural proteins in aging-related responses of human skin to the environmental stress

Human skin is a stratified endocrine organ with primary roles in protection against detrimental biochemical and biophysical factors in the environment. Environmental stress causes gradual accumulation of the macromolecular damage and clinical manifestations consistent with chronic inflammatory conditions and premature aging of the skin. Structural proteins of cell nucleus, the nuclear lamins and lamina-associated proteins, play an important role in the regulation of a number of signal transduction pathways associated with stress. The nuclear lamina proteins have been implicated in a number of degenerative disorders with frequent clinical manifestations of the skin conditions related to premature aging. Analysis of the molecular signatures in response of the skin to a range of damaging factors not only points at the likely involvement of the nuclear lamina in transmission of the signals between the environment and cell nucleus but also defines skin's sensitivity to stress, and therefore the capacities to counteract external damage in aging.

Keratinocyte Motility Is Affected by UVA Radiation-A Comparison between Normal and Dysplastic Cells

UVA radiation induces multiple and complex changes in the skin, affecting epidermal cell behavior. This study reports the effects of UVA exposure on normal (HaCaT) and dysplastic (DOK) keratinocytes. The adherence, spreading and proliferation were investigated by time-lapse measurement of cell layer impedance on different matrix proteins. Prior to UVA exposure, the time required for adherence and spreading did not differ significantly for HaCaT and DOK cells, while spreading areas were larger for HaCaT cells. Under UVA exposure, HaCaT and DOK cells behavior differed in terms of movement and proliferation. The cells' ability to cover the denuded surface and individual cell trajectories were recorded by time-lapse videomicroscopy, during wound healing experiments. Dysplastic keratinocytes showed more sensitivity to UVA, exhibiting transient deficiencies in directionality of movement and a delay in re-coating the denuded area. The actin cytoskeleton displayed a cortical organization immediately after irradiation, in both cell lines, similar to mock-irradiated cells. Post-irradiation, DOK cells displayed a better organization of stress fibers, persistent filopodia, and new, stronger focal contacts. In conclusion, after UVA exposure HaCaT and DOK cells showed a different behavior in terms of adherence, spreading, motility, proliferation, and actin cytoskeleton dynamics, with the dyplastic keratinocytes being more sensitive.

Silencing Stem Cell Factor Gene in Fibroblasts to Regulate Paracrine Factor Productions and Enhance c-Kit Expression in Melanocytes on Melanogenesis

Melanogenesis is a complex physiological mechanism involving various paracrine factors. Skin cells such as keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and melanocytes communicate with one another through secreted regulators, thereby regulating the melanocytes’ bio-functions. The stem cell factor (SCF) is a paracrine factor produced by fibroblasts, and its receptor, c-kit, is expressed on melanocytes. Binding of SCF to c-kit activates autophosphorylation and tyrosine kinase to switch on its signal transmission. SCF inhibition does not suppress fibroblast proliferation in MTT assay, and SCF silencing induced mRNA expressions of paracrine factor genes, HGF, NRG-1, and CRH in qPCR results. Following UVB stimulation, gene expressions of HGF, NRG, and CRH were higher than homeostasis; in particular, HGF exhibited the highest correlation with SCF variations. We detected fibroblasts regulated SCF in an autocrine-dependent manner, and the conditioned medium obtained from fibroblast culture was applied to treat melanocytes. Melanogenesis-related genes, tyrosinase and pmel17, were upregulated under conditioned mediums with SCF silencing and exposed to UVB treatments. Melanin quantities in the melanocytes had clearly increased in the pigment content assay. In conclusion, SCF silencing causes variations in both fibroblast paracrine factors and melanocyte melanogenesis, and the differences in gene expressions were observed following UVB exposure.