Naturally occurring tyrosinase inhibitors: mechanism and applications in skin health, cosmetics and agriculture industries

Design, CTAB-catalyzed ultrasound-assisted synthesis and tyrosinase inhibition potential of naphthofuran-triazole conjugates

The development of novel and efficient tyrosinase inhibitors is a critical necessity of agricultural, cosmetic and medicinal chemistry. Bearing in mind the therapeutical potential of naphthofuran-containing organic compounds, we carried out the CTAB-catalyzed ultrasound-assisted synthesis of a library of novel naphthofuran-triazole joined N-aryl/alkyl acetamides 20(a-j) in 74-92% yield, which were further assessed for their tyrosinase inhibitory potential by taking kojic acid and ascorbic acid as standard inhibitors. The tyrosinase inhibitory assay demonstrated the promising tyrosinase inhibiting tendency of all prepared derivatives 20(a-h) as they all were found to be more efficient in comparison to the standard kojic acid. Similarly, most of the derivatives also exhibited tyrosinase inhibition potency in juxtaposition to ascorbic acid. More specifically, among the catalog of compounds, 20f and 20i exhibited potent inhibition results with IC50 = 0.51 ± 0.12 and 1.99 ± 0.07, respectively. Overall, 20f was shown to be the most efficacious tyrosinase inhibitor, owing to the presence of an electronegative group, i.e., 2-chloro substitution on the phenyl ring. The tyrosinase inhibition activity results of 20f and 20i were further supplemented with molecular docking analysis to validate experimental studies. In silico modelling findings revealed their significant interactions with the tyrosinase protein (PDB ID: 5OAE), thereby illustrating the efficient docking score of -7.10 kcal mol-1 and -6.95 kcal mol-1 in comparison to kojic acid (-5.03 kcal mol-1).

Screening and characterization of cosmetic efficacy components of Terminalia chebula based on biological activity-guided methodology

Terminalia chebula exhibits a high level of antioxidant capacity and is highly valued in medicine and cosmetics. However, its main efficacy and active ingredients related to antioxidant, whitening, and anti-aging are still unclear. In this study, the active site responsible for its cosmetic efficacy was specified by the biological activity-guided method and further characterized by using ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UHPLC-QTOF-MS/MS). T. chebula was ultrasonically extracted by five solvents, and 30% ethanol extract was screened out for subsequent purification by 1,1-D-iphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH), 2,2'-Azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonate) (ABTS), hydroxyl, and superoxide anion free radical scavenging assays. Five elution fractions were obtained by column chromatography on D101 macroporous adsorbent resin eluted by an increased proportion of ethanol. The 30% ethanol elution fraction was specified as the enrichment site of active ingredients showing good antioxidant capacity and potent inhibitory activity against tyrosinase and elastase. A total of 30 compounds were identified by UHPLC-QTOF-MS/MS in the 30% ethanol elution fraction, including 11 gallotannins, 14 ellagitannins, and 5 other compounds, and these compounds may be the key ingredients in cosmetics beneficial for the skin. Such a biological activity-guided method has provided a simple and rapid venue for specifying the components of medicinal herbs responsible for cosmetic efficacy.

Hydroxyl-Amide Alkaloids from Pepper Roots: Potential Sources of Natural Antioxidants and Tyrosinase Inhibitors

Pepper (Piper nigrum L.) is a widely used spice plant known for its fruits and roots, which serve as flavor enhancers in culinary applications and hold significant economic value. Despite the popularity of pepper fruits, their roots remain relatively understudied, with limited research conducted on their bioactive components. This study focused on discovering and separating the primary bioactive amide alkaloids found in pepper roots. The process involved using the antioxidant activity of crude fractions and the Global Natural Products Social Molecular Networking analysis platform. The process led to the discovery of 23 previously unknown hydroxyl-amide alkaloids. Notably, compounds 11, 12, and 14 showed excellent antioxidant activity, while compound 11 exhibited significant inhibitory effects on mushroom tyrosinase. Theoretical exploration of enzyme-ligand interactions was conducted through molecular docking and molecular dynamics simulation. The findings of this study highlight the potential of hydroxyl-amide alkaloids as antioxidant products and natural food preservatives in the pharmaceutical and food cosmetic industries.

Classification of buckwheat honey produced in Kazakhstan according to their biochemical ingredients and bioactivities by chemometric approach

Herein, nineteen buckwheat honey samples collected from 19 stations of different ecological zones of Kazakhstan were analysed for their pollen density, physicochemical properties, chemical composition, antioxidant, anticholinesterase, tyrosinase inhibitory, and urease inhibitory activities with chemometric approaches. Twelve phenolic compounds and fumaric acid were identified using HPLC-DAD, and mainly fumaric, p-hydroxybenzoic, p-coumaric, trans-2-hydroxy cinnamic acids, and chrysin were detected in all samples. The honey samples collected from the Northern zone exhibited best antioxidant activity in lipid peroxidation inhibitory (IC50:8.65 ± 0.50 mg/mL), DPPH• (IC50:17.07 ± 1.49 mg/mL), ABTS•+ (IC50:8.90 ± 0.65 mg/mL), CUPRAC (A0.50:7.51 ± 0.30 mg/mL) and metal chelating assay (IC50:10.39 ± 0.71 mg/mL). In contrast, South-eastern zone samples indicated better acetylcholinesterase (55.57 ± 0.83%), butyrylcholinesterase (49.59 ± 1.09%), tyrosinase (44.40 ± 1.21%), and moderate urease (24.57 ± 0.33%) inhibitory activities at 20 mg/mL. The chemometric classification of nineteen buckwheat honey was performed using PCA and HCA techniques. Both were supported by correlation analysis. Thirteen compounds contributed significantly to the clustering of buckwheat honey based on geographical origin.

Expected role of photodynamic therapy to relieve skin damage in nuclear or radiological emergency: Review

Nuclear and radiological accidents can occur due to poor management, in transportation, radiation therapy and nuclear wards in hospitals, leading to extreme radiation exposure and serious consequences for human health. Additionally, in many of previous radiological accidents, skin damage was observed in patients and survivors due to the high radiation exposure. However, as part of a medical countermeasures in a nuclear/radiological emergency, it is critical to plan for the treatment of radiation-induced skin damage. Hence, the new, non-invasive technology of photodynamic therapy (PDT) is projected to be more effectively used for treating skin damage caused by high-dose radiation. PDT plays an important role in treating, repairing skin damage and promoting wound healing as evidenced by research. This review, highlighted and recommended potential impacts of PDT to repair and decrease radiation-induced skin tissue damage. Moreover, we have suggested some photosensitizer (PS) agent as radio-mitigator drugs to decrease radiobiological effects.

Ethyl Acetate Fraction from Eleutherococcus divaricatus Root Extract as a Promising Source of Compounds with Anti-Hyaluronidase, Anti-Tyrosinase, and Antioxidant Activity but Not Anti-Melanoma Activity

Eleutherococcus divaricatus (Siebold and Zucc.) S. Y. Hu. has been used in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) due to its anticancer, immunostimulant, and anti-inflammatory activities. However, its mechanism of action and chemical composition are still insufficiently understood and require more advanced research, especially for cases in which anti-inflammatory properties are beneficial. The aim of this study was to evaluate the impact of E. divaricatus root extracts and fractions on proinflammatory serum hyaluronidase and tyrosinase in children diagnosed with acute lymphoblastic leukemia. Antioxidant and anti-melanoma activities were also examined and correlated with metabolomic data. For the first time, we discovered that the ethyl acetate fraction significantly inhibits hyaluronidase activity, with mean group values of 55.82% and 63.8% for aescin used as a control. However, interestingly, the fraction showed no activity against human tyrosinase, and in A375 melanoma cells treated with a doxorubicin fraction, doxorubicin activity decreased. This fraction exhibited the most potent antioxidant activity, which can be attributed to high contents of polyphenols, especially caffeic acid (24 mg/g). The findings suggest an important role of the ethyl acetate fraction in hyaluronidase inhibition, which may additionally indicate its anti-inflammatory property. The results suggest that this fraction can be used in inflammatory-related diseases, although with precautions in cases of patients undergoing chemotherapy.

Design of potent tyrosinase inhibiting N-arylated-4-yl-benzamides bearing 2-aminothiazole-triazole bi-heterocycles: mechanistic insight through enzyme inhibition, kinetics and computational studies

By using a convergent methodology, a unique series of N-arylated 4-yl-benzamides containing a bi-heterocyclic thiazole-triazole core was synthesized and the structures of these hybrid molecules, 9a-k, were corroborated through spectral analyses. The in vitro studies of these multi-functional molecules demonstrated their potent mushroom tyrosinase inhibition relative to the standard used. The kinetics mechanism was exposed by lineweaver-burk plots which revealed that, 9c, inhibited mushroom tyrosinase non-competitively by forming an enzyme-inhibitor complex. The inhibition constant Ki calculated from Dixon plots for this compound was 0.016 μM. The computational study was also consistent with the experimental results and these molecules disclosed good results of all scoring functions and interactions, which suggested a good binding to mushroom tyrosinase. So, it was predicted from the inferred results that these molecules might be considered as promising medicinal scaffolds for the diseases associated with the over-expression of this enzyme.

Discovery of novel 1,2,4-triazole tethered β-hydroxy sulfides as bacterial tyrosinase inhibitors: synthesis and biophysical evaluation through in vitro and in silico approaches

In this study, a series of 1,2,4-triazole-tethered β-hydroxy sulfide scaffolds 11a-h was synthesized in good to remarkable yields (69-90%) through the thiolysis of oxiranes by the thiols in aqueous basic catalytic conditions. The synthesized 1,2,4-triazole-tethered β-hydroxy sulfides were screened against bacterial tyrosinase enzyme, and Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacterial cultures i.e., (S. aureus) Staphylococcus aureus & (E. coli) Escherichia coli. Among the synthesized derivatives, the molecules 11a (IC50 = 7.67 ± 1.00 μM), 11c (IC50 = 4.52 ± 0.09 μM), 11d (IC50 = 6.60 ± 1.25 μM), and 11f (IC50 = 5.93 ± 0.50 μM) displayed the better tyrosinase inhibitory activity in comparison to reference drugs ascorbic acid (IC50 = 11.5 ± 1.00 μM) and kojic acid (IC50 = 30.34 ± 0.75 μM). The molecule benzofuran-triazol-propan-2-ol 11c proved to be the most potent bacterial tyrosinase inhibitory agent with a minimum IC50 of 4.52 ± 0.09 μM, as compared to other synthesized counterparts and both standards (kojic acid and ascorbic acid). The compound diphenyl-triazol-propan-2-ol 11a and benzofuran-triazole-propan-2-ol 11c showed comparable anti-bacterial chemotherapeutic efficacy with minimum inhibitory concentrations (MIC = 2.0 ± 2.25 mg mL-1 and 2.5 ± 0.00 mg mL-1, respectively) against S. aureus bacterial strain in comparison with standard antibiotic penicillin (MIC = 2.2 ± 1.15 mg mL-1). Furthermore, among the synthesized derivatives, only compound 11c demonstrated better anti-bacterial activity (MIC = 10 ± 0.40 mg mL-1) against E. coli, which was slightly less than the standard antibiotic i.e., penicillin (MIC = 2.4 ± 1.00 mg mL-1). The compound 11c demonstrated a better binding score (-7.08 kcal mol-1) than ascorbic acid (-5.59 kcal mol-1) and kojic acid (-5.78 kcal mol-1). Molecular docking studies also validate the in vitro anti-tyrosinase assay results; therefore, the molecule 11c can be the lead bacterial tyrosinase inhibitor as well as the antibacterial agent against both types of bacterial strains after suitable structural modifications.

Valorization of Citrus peels: GC/MS-based metabolites profiling, multivariate analysis, and antiaging potential

Aging and agro-waste are major challenges. Natural ingredients are preferred in skincare. This study intended to isolate the essential oils (EO) from the leftover peels obtained from three commonly edible Citrus species fruit peels, namely Citrus paradisi (grapefruit), Citrus sinensis (sweet orange), and Citrus deliciosa (mandarin). Gas chromatography/mass spectrometry analysis identified volatile constituents in EO and headspace aroma. Multivariate analysis distinguished between the three species. The antiaging effects of Citrus EO were assessed in vitro and in silico, studying volatile interactions with target enzymes. C. sinensis peels had the highest oil yield, rich in monoterpenes. C. paradisi and C. deliciosa contained sesquiterpenes. Limonene dominated the hydrodistilled EO: 94.50% in C. paradisi, 96.80% in C. sinensis, and 80.66% in C. deliciosa. Unsupervised multivariate analysis of Citrus species revealed that  d-limonene, γ-terpinene, and β-pinene are the key phytochemical markers contributing to their diverse chemical composition. C. paradisi exhibited the highest enzyme inhibitory activity, with IC50 values of 12.82, 27.58, and 18.16 µg/mL for tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase, respectively. In silico studies showed that the volatiles can inhibit the tested antiaging enzymes. According to these findings, the investigated agro-waste might slow aging in skin care.

Synthetic Polymer Nanoparticles as an Abiotic Artificial Inhibitor of Tyrosinase

An innovative methodology is presented for synthesizing synthetic polymer nanoparticles (TINPs) as potent tyrosinase inhibitors. This inhibition strategy combines the integration of two distinct functionalities, phenol, and phenylboronic acid, within the TINPs structure. The phenyl group mimics the natural monophenol substrate, forming a strong coordination with the catalytic copper ion, significantly inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Additionally, phenylboronic acid interacts with catechol, another tyrosinase substrate, further reducing enzyme efficiency. The shared benzene ring in phenyl and phenylboronic acid enhances binding to tyrosinase's hydrophobic pocket near its copper active site, contributing to potent inhibition. TINPs exhibit exceptional performance, boasting an impressive IC50 value of 3.5×10-8 m and an inhibition constant of 9.8×10-9 m. Validation of the approach is unequivocally demonstrated through the successful inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanin production, substantiated in both in vitro and in vivo scenarios. The mechanism of TINP inhibition is elucidated through circular dichroism and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. This study introduces a versatile design approach for developing abiotic polymer-based enzyme inhibitors, expanding possibilities in enzyme inhibition research.

Stability, biofunctional, and antimicrobial characteristics of cannabidiol isolate for the design of topical formulations

Cannabidiol (CBD) is a high-value natural compound of Cannabis Sativa plant. It is a non-psychotropic phytocannabinoid, attracting significant attention as a multifunctional active ingredient for topical applications. Although it is demonstrated that CBD can be used for specific dermatological ailments, reliable data on functionalities are limited. The present study aimed to investigate the structural stability, biofunctionality, and antimicrobial characteristics of CBD isolate to assist in the design of various topical formulations. The stability of CBD in solid and solubilized states was assessed to establish storage and formulation conditions. The performance of CBD solubilized in organic and aqueous media was evaluated for free radical scavenging, tyrosinase, and collagenase enzyme inhibition, which showed good prospects for the ingredient. The antimicrobial activity of solubilized CBD was evaluated against Gram-negative (E. coli, P. aeruginosa), Gram-positive bacterial strains (S. aureus, S. epidermidis, C. acnes), and fungal strains (C. albicans, M. furfur) using agar well diffusion and broth microdilution methods. Due to the presence of surfactants in CBD aqueous solution, it displayed a lack of antimicrobial activity against all the tested microorganisms. CBD solubilized in an organic medium showed no activity against Gram-negative bacterial strains but higher activity against tested Gram-positive bacterial and fungal strains.

Therapeutic Potential of Fungal Terpenes and Terpenoids: Application in Skin Diseases

Terpenes and their derivatives comprise a diverse group of natural compounds with versatile medicinal properties. This article elucidates the general characteristics of fungal terpenes and terpenoids, encompassing their structure and biogenesis. The focal point of this work involves a comprehensive overview of these compounds, highlighting their therapeutic properties, mechanisms of action, and potential applications in treating specific skin conditions. Numerous isolated terpenes and terpenoids have demonstrated noteworthy anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial effects, rivalling or surpassing the efficacy of currently employed treatments for inflammation or skin infections. Due to their well-documented antioxidant and anti-cancer attributes, these compounds exhibit promise in both preventing and treating skin cancer. Terpenes and terpenoids sourced from fungi display the capability to inhibit tyrosinase, suggesting potential applications in addressing skin pigmentation disorders and cancers linked to melanogenesis dysfunctions. This paper further disseminates the findings of clinical and in vivo research on fungal terpenes and terpenoids conducted thus far.

Valorization of biomass polyphenols as potential tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinases (TYRs; EC 1.14.18.1) catalyze two sequential oxidative reactions of the melanin biosynthesis pathway and play an important role in mammalian pigmentation and enzymatic browning of fruit and vegetables. Inhibition of TYR activity is therefore an attractive target for new drugs and/or food ingredients. In addition, increasing evidence suggests that TYR regulation could be a novel target for treatments of cancer and Parkinson's disease. Biomasses, notably industrial byproducts and biowaste, are good sustainable sources of phytochemicals that may be valorized into bioactive compounds including TYR inhibitors. This review presents potential applications of biomass-derived polyphenols targeting TYR inhibition. Insights into structure-activity relationships of several polyphenols and their glycosides are highlighted. Finally, some remarks and perspectives on research into new TYR inhibitors from biomass waste are provided.

Synthesis, in silico modelling, and in vitro biological evaluation of substituted pyrazole derivatives as potential anti-skin cancer, anti-tyrosinase, and antioxidant agents

Twenty-five azole compounds (P1-P25) were synthesised using regioselective base-metal catalysed and microwave-assisted approaches, fully characterised by high-resolution mass spectrometry (HRMS), nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), and infrared spectra (IR) analyses, and evaluated for anticancer, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-oxidant activities in silico and in vitro. P25 exhibited potent anticancer activity against cells of four skin cancer (SC) lines, with selectivity for melanoma (A375, SK-Mel-28) or non-melanoma (A431, SCC-12) SC cells over non-cancerous HaCaT-keratinocytes. Clonogenic, scratch-wound, and immunoblotting assay data were consistent with anti-proliferative results, expression profiling therewith implicating intrinsic and extrinsic apoptosis activation. In a mushroom tyrosinase inhibition assay, P14 was most potent among the compounds (half-maximal inhibitory concentration where 50% of cells are dead, IC50 15.9 μM), with activity greater than arbutin and kojic acid. Also, P6 exhibited noteworthy free radical-scavenging activity. Furthermore, in silico docking and absorption, distribution, metabolism, excretion, and toxicity (ADMET) simulations predicted prominent-phenotypic actives to engage diverse cancer/hyperpigmentation-related targets with relatively high affinities. Altogether, promising early-stage hits were identified - some with multiple activities - warranting further hit-to-lead optimisation chemistry with further biological evaluations, towards identifying new skin-cancer and skin-pigmentation renormalising agents.

Tripeptides conjugated with thiosemicarbazones: new inhibitors of tyrosinase for cosmeceutical use

The development of skin-care products is recently growing. Cosmetic formulas containing active ingredients with proven efficacy, namely cosmeceuticals, are based on various compounds, including peptides. Different whitening agents featuring anti-tyrosinase activity have been applied in the cosmeceutical field. Despite their availability, their applicability is often limited due to several drawbacks including toxicity, lack of stability, and other factors. In this work, we present the inhibitory effect on diphenolase activity of thiosemicarbazone (TSC)-peptide conjugates. Tripeptides FFY, FWY, and FYY were conjugated with three TSCs bearing one or two aromatic rings via amide bond formation in a solid phase. Compounds were then examined as tyrosinase and melanogenesis inhibitors in murine melanoma B16F0 cell line, followed by the cytotoxicity assays of these cells. In silico investigations explained the differences in the activity, observed among tested compounds. Mushroom tyrosinase was inhibited by TSC1-conjugates at micromolar level, with IC₅₀ lower than this for kojic acid, a widely used reference compound. Up to now, this is the first report regarding thiosemicarbazones conjugated with tripeptides, synthesised for the purpose of tyrosinase inhibition.

Investigation of Structure-Activity Relationships for Benzoyl and Cinnamoyl Piperazine/Piperidine Amides as Tyrosinase Inhibitors

Melanin is a substance that plays important roles in several organisms. Its function as an antioxidant and metal-complexing agent makes tyrosinase, the key enzyme that controls melanogenesis, an interesting target for designing inhibitors. In this article, we report a set of piperazine/piperidine amides of benzoic and cinnamic acid derivatives as tyrosinase inhibitors with improved potency and drug-likeness. The most potent compound 5b showed a pIC50 of 4.99 in the monophenolase assay, and only compound 3a showed reasonable potency in the diphenolase assay (pIC50, 4.18). These activities are not correlated to antiradical activity, suggesting that the activity is dependent on competition with the substrates. Molecular docking studies indicated that the benzyl substituent of 5b and other analogues perform important interactions in the enzyme that may explain the higher potency of these compounds. Moreover, the compounds present adequate lipophilicity and skin permeability and no relevant cytotoxicity (CC50 > 200 μM) to mammalian cells.

Recent advances in triazoles as tyrosinase inhibitors

The tyrosinase enzyme, which is widely found in microorganisms, animals and plants, has a significant position in melanogenesis, plays an important role in undesirable browning of fruits and vegetables, antibiotic resistance, skin pigment formation, sclerotization of cuticle, neurodegeneration, etc. Therefore, with the wide potential application fields of tyrosinase in food, agriculture, cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries, which has become the target enzyme for the development of therapeutic agents such as antibrowning, anticancer, antibacterial, skin whitening, insecticides, etc., a large number of synthetic tyrosinase inhibitors have been widely reported in recent years. The triazole ring, which has a broad spectrum of biological action, is of increasing interest in the synthesis of new tyrosinase inhibitors. In this review, tyrosinase inhibition effects, structure-activity relationships, enzyme inhibition kinetics and mechanisms of action of 1,2,3- or 1,2,4-triazole derivatives were investigated. The data gathered is anticipated to supply rational guidance and an influential strategy for the development of novel, potent and safe tyrosinase inhibitors for better practical application in the future.

Paeoniflorin found in Paeonia lactiflora root extract inhibits melanogenesis by regulating melanin-related signal transduction in B16F10 cells

BACKGROUND

Skin pigmentation is modulated by various processes, with melanogenesis playing a key role. Melanin is synthesized by the catalysis of melanogenesis-related enzymes, such as tyrosinase and tyrosine-related proteins TRP-1 and TRP-2. Paeoniflorin is the main bioactive component of Paeonia suffruticosa Andr., Paeonia lactiflora., or Paeonia veitchii Lynch and has been used for centuries for its anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, and anti-carcinogenic properties.

AIMS & METHODS

In this study, melanin biosynthesis in mouse melanoma (B16F10) cells was induced using α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), and then cells were co-treated with paeoniflorin to evaluate its potential anti-melanogenic effect.

RESULTS

α-MSH stimulation increased melanin content, tyrosinase activity, and melanogenesis-related markers in a dose-dependent manner. However, treatment with paeoniflorin reversed α-MSH-induced upregulation of melanin content and tyrosinase activity. Furthermore, paeoniflorin inhibited cAMP response element-binding protein activation and TRP-1, TRP-2, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor protein expression in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells.

CONCLUSION

Overall, these findings show the potential of paeoniflorin as a depigmenting agent for cosmetic products.

Skincare potential of a sustainable postbiotic extract produced through sugarcane straw fermentation by Saccharomyces cerevisiae

Postbiotics are defined as a "preparation of inanimate microorganisms and/or their components that confers a health benefit on the host." They can be produced by fermentation, using culture media with glucose (carbon source), and lactic acid bacteria of the genus Lactobacillus, and/or yeast, mainly Saccharomyces cerevisiae as fermentative microorganisms. Postbiotics comprise different metabolites, and have important biological properties (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, etc.), thus their cosmetic application should be considered. During this work, the postbiotics production was carried out by fermentation with sugarcane straw, as a source of carbon and phenolic compounds, and as a sustainable process to obtain bioactive extracts. For the production of postbiotics, a saccharification process was carried out with cellulase at 55°C for 24 h. Fermentation was performed sequentially after saccharification at 30°C, for 72 h, using S. cerevisiae. The cells-free extract was characterized regarding its composition, antioxidant activity, and skincare potential. Its use was safe at concentrations below ~20 mg mL-1 (extract's dry weight in deionized water) for keratinocytes and ~ 7.5 mg mL-1 for fibroblasts. It showed antioxidant activity, with ABTS IC50 of 1.88 mg mL-1 , and inhibited elastase and tyrosinase activities by 83.4% and 42.4%, respectively, at the maximum concentration tested (20 mg mL-1 ). In addition, it promoted the production of cytokeratin 14, and demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity at a concentration of 10 mg mL-1 . In the skin microbiota of human volunteers, the extract inhibited Cutibacterium acnes and the Malassezia genus. Shortly, postbiotics were successfully produced using sugarcane straw, and showed bioactive properties that potentiate their use in cosmetic/skincare products.

Tyrosinase Inhibitory Peptides from Enzyme Hydrolyzed Royal Jelly: Production, Separation, Identification and Docking Analysis

Tyrosinase is inextricably related to the development of Alzheimer's disease. The effects of natural tyrosinase inhibitors on human health have attracted widespread attention. This study aimed to isolate and analyze the tyrosinase (TYR) inhibitory peptides in the enzymatic digestion products of royal jelly. We first analyzed optimal process conditions for the enzymatic digestion of royal jelly by single-factor and orthogonal experiments and then used gel filtration chromatography to obtain five fractions (D1~D5) with molecular weights ranging from 600 to 1100 Da. LC-MS/MS was applied to identify the fractions with the highest activity, and the obtained peptides were screened and molecularly docked using AutoDock Vina. The results showed that the optimal enzymatic conditions for tyrosinase inhibition rate were acid protease, enzyme addition 10,000 U/g, initial pH 4, feed-to-liquid ratio 1:4, enzymatic temperature 55 °C, and enzymatic time 4 h. The D4 fraction had the most significant TYR inhibitory activity. The IC₅₀ values of the three new peptides with the strongest TYR inhibitory activity, TIPPPT, IIPFIF, and ILFTLL, were obtained as 7.59 mg/mL, 6.16 mg/mL, and 9.25 mg/mL, respectively. The molecular docking results showed that aromatic and hydrophobic amino acids were more favorable to occupy the catalytic center of TYR. In conclusion, the new peptide extracted from royal jelly has the potential to be used as a natural TYR inhibitory peptide in food products with health-promoting properties.

Methoxyflavones from Black Ginger (Kaempferia parviflora Wall. ex Baker) and their Inhibitory Effect on Melanogenesis in B16F10 Mouse Melanoma Cells

Kaempferia parviflora Wall. ex Baker (Zingiberaceae), commonly known as Thai ginseng or black ginger, is a tropical medicinal plant in many regions. It has been traditionally used to treat various ailments, including ulcers, dysentery, gout, allergies, abscesses, and osteoarthritis. As part of our ongoing phytochemical study aimed at discovering bioactive natural products, we investigated potential bioactive methoxyflavones from K. parviflora rhizomes. Phytochemical analysis aided by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) led to the isolation of six methoxyflavones (1-6) from the n-hexane fraction of the methanolic extract of K. parviflora rhizomes. The isolated compounds were structurally determined to be 3,7-dimethoxy-5-hydroxyflavone (1), 5-hydroxy-7-methoxyflavone (2), 7,4'-dimethylapigenin (3), 3,5,7-trimethoxyflavone (4), 3,7,4'-trimethylkaempferol (5), and 5-hydroxy-3,7,3',4'-tetramethoxyflavone (6), based on NMR data and LC-MS analysis. All of the isolated compounds were evaluated for their anti-melanogenic activities. In the activity assay, 7,4'-dimethylapigenin (3) and 3,5,7-trimethoxyflavone (4) significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin content in IBMX-stimulated B16F10 cells. In addition, structure-activity relationship analysis revealed that the methoxy group at C-5 in methoxyflavones is key to their anti-melanogenic activity. This study experimentally demonstrated that K. parviflora rhizomes are rich in methoxyflavones and can be a valuable natural resource for anti-melanogenic compounds.

Regulatory Effects of Thai Rice By-Product Extracts from Oryza sativa L. cv. Bue Bang 3 CMU and Bue Bang 4 CMU on Melanin Production, Nitric Oxide Secretion, and Steroid 5α-Reductase Inhibition

Alopecia and gray hair are common hair abnormalities affecting physical appearance and causing psychological problems. Chemical treatments partially restore hair disorders but have distressing side effects. Bioactive plant compounds constitute promising sources of potential medicinal substances instead of chemical agents, producing high side effects. In this study, we focused on the waste of local rice cultivars: Bue Bang 3 CMU (BB3CMU) and Bue Bang 4 CMU (BB4CMU) from the north of Thailand. The rice bran oil (RBO), defatted rice bran extract (DFRB), and rice husk (H) were determined for in vitro hair revitalization in melanin production, nitric oxide (NO) secretion, and steroid 5α-reductase inhibition. The results indicated that BB4CMU-RBO with high contents of iron, zinc, and free fatty acids showed a comparable induction of melanin production on melanocytes (130.18 ± 9.13% of control) to the standard drug theophylline with no significant difference (p > 0.05). This promising melanin induction could be related to activating the NO secretion pathway, with the NO secretion level at 1.43 ± 0.05 µM. In addition, BB4CMU-RBO illustrated a significant inhibitory effect on both steroid 5α-reductase genes (SRD5A) type 1 and type 2, which relates to its primary source of tocopherols. Hence, rice bran oil from the Thai rice variety BB4CMU could be applied as a promising hair revitalizing candidate, from natural resources, to help promote hair growth and re-pigmentation effects.

Enzyme Inhibitors from Gorgonians and Soft Corals

For decades, gorgonians and soft corals have been considered promising sources of bioactive compounds, attracting the interest of scientists from different fields. As the most abundant bioactive compounds within these organisms, terpenoids, steroids, and alkaloids have received the highest coverage in the scientific literature. However, enzyme inhibitors, a functional class of bioactive compounds with high potential for industry and biomedicine, have received much less notoriety. Thus, we revised scientific literature (1974-2022) on the field of marine natural products searching for enzyme inhibitors isolated from these taxonomic groups. In this review, we present representative enzyme inhibitors from an enzymological perspective, highlighting, when available, data on specific targets, structures, potencies, mechanisms of inhibition, and physiological roles for these molecules. As most of the characterization studies for the new inhibitors remain incomplete, we also included a methodological section presenting a general strategy to face this goal by accomplishing STRENDA (Standards for Reporting Enzymology Data) project guidelines.

Anti-Melanogenic Potential of Natural and Synthetic Substances: Application in Zebrafish Model

Melanogenesis is a biosynthetic pathway for the formation of the pigment melanin in human skin. A key enzyme in the process of pigmentation through melanin is tyrosinase, which catalyzes the first and only limiting step in melanogenesis. Since the discovery of its methanogenic properties, tyrosinase has been the focus of research related to the anti-melanogenesis. In addition to developing more effective and commercially safe inhibitors, more studies are required to better understand the mechanisms involved in the skin depigmentation process. However, in vivo assays are necessary to develop and validate new drugs or molecules for this purpose, and to accomplish this, zebrafish has been identified as a model organism for in vivo application. In addition, such model would allow tracking and studying the depigmenting activity of many bioactive compounds, important to genetics, medicinal chemistry and even the cosmetic industry. Studies have shown the similarity between human and zebrafish genomes, encouraging their use as a model to understand the mechanism of action of a tested compound. Interestingly, zebrafish skin shares many similarities with human skin, suggesting that this model organism is suitable for studying melanogenesis inhibitors. Accordingly, several bioactive compounds reported herein for this model are compared in terms of their molecular structure and possible mode of action in zebrafish embryos. In particular, this article described the main metabolites of Trichoderma fungi, in addition to substances from natural and synthetic sources.

Commiphora wildii Merxm. Essential Oil: Natural Heptane Source and Co-Product Valorization

As an alternative to fossil volatile hydrocarbon solvents used nowadays in perfumery, investigation on essential oil of Commiphora wildii Merxm. oleo gum resin as a source of heptane is reported here. Heptane, representing up to 30 wt-% of this oleo gum resin, was successfully isolated from the C. wildii essential oil, using an innovative double distillation process. Isolated heptane was then used as a solvent in order to extract some noble plants of perfumery. It was found that extracts obtained with this solvent were more promising in terms of sensory analysis than those obtained from fossil-based heptane. In addition, in order to valorize the essential oil depleted from heptane, chemical composition of this oil was found to obtain, and potential biological activity properties were studied. A total of 172 different compounds were identified by GC-MS in the remaining oil. In vitro tests-including hyaluronidase, tyrosinase, antioxidant, elastase and lipoxygenase, as well as inhibitory tests against two yeasts and 21 bacterial strains commonly found on the skin-were carried out. Overall, bioassays results suggest this heptane-depleted essential oil is a promising active ingredient for cosmetic applications.

Investigation of Chemical Composition and Biological Activities of Ajuga pyramidalis-Isolation of Iridoids and Phenylethanoid Glycosides

Despite several studies on the Ajuga L. genus, the chemical composition of Ajuga pyramidalis, an alpine endemic species, is still largely unknown. The purpose of this study was to therefore deeper describe it, particularly from the phytochemistry and bioactivity perspectives. In that respect, A. pyramidalis was investigated and 95% of the extracted mass of the plant was characterized by chromatography and mass spectrometry. Apart from the already determined chemical compounds, namely, harpagide and 8-O-acetylharpagide, two iridoids, and neoajugapyrin A, a neo-clerodane diterpene, and three polyphenols (echinacoside, verbascoside and teupoloside) were identified for the first time in A. pyramidalis. Incidentally, the first RX structure of a harpagoside derivative is also described in this paper. The extracts and isolated compounds were then evaluated for various biochemical or biological activities; notably a targeted action on the renewal of the epidermis was highlighted with potential applications in the cosmetic field for anti-aging.

Potential application of natural bioactive compounds as skin-whitening agents: A review

BACKGROUND

Melanin is a skin pigment that gives color to the skin, hair, and eyes. The accumulation or over production of melanin can lead to aesthetic problems as well as serious diseases associated with hyperpigmentation. Skin lightening is described as the procedure of using natural or synthetic products to lighten the skin tone or provide an even skin complexion by reducing the amount of melanin in the skin; therefore, skin lightening products help people to treat their skin problems. Ingredients such as hydroquinone, ascorbic acid, and retinoic acid were used as whitening agents to lighten the skin. However, they have many adverse effects on the skin and body health, such as skin irritation.

AIM

In this review, firstly, discuss on the directly/indirectly target melanogenesis-related signal pathways. Secondly, summarize potential natural bioactive ingredients with skin lightening properties from plants, marine organisms, microorganisms. Finally, the remaining problems and future challenges are also discussed.

METHODS

For relevant literature, a literature search was conducted using Google Scholar and Web of Science. Natural bioactive compounds, tyrosinase inhibitors, and other related topics were researched and evaluated.

RESULTS

Natural products isolated from plant and animal resources are potential active cosmetic candidates for lightening the skin tone and skin whitening and protection against UV irradiation. Natural bioactive ingredients as cosmetic whitening additives have attracted increasingly attention due to their safety and cost effectiveness, with few side effects.

CONCLUSION

Although natural active substances have been advocated for use in whitening cosmetics in recent years, there are still many challenges due to the fact that traditional inhibitors are used perennial in cosmetics which cannot be easily changed and the research on natural active substances is still in its infancy. In the future, by improving the extraction technique of natural extracts, it is achieved to give a qualitative and quantitative analysis of the active ingredients of the extracts, to determine the effect of the active components of action, and to find the substances that have the best possible whitening effect in natural organisms.

Application of traditional Chinese medicine as skin depigmentation agents

Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) has been frequently used as skin lightning agents. However, the mechanism of action of their effect is unclear. The present study aims to evaluate anti-tyrosinase activity of 10 commonly used TCM on mushroom (ab), human (hs) and mouse melanoma B16F0 (mm) tyrosinase (TYR) respectively. The results showed that at 1.0 mg/mL, extracts from Rosa rugosa Thumb, Morus alba L. and Paeonia lactiflora Pall were active against both abTYR and hsTYR (>50% inhibition), extracts from Bletilla striata (Thunb.) Rchb. F., Centella asiatica (L.) Urb, Cynanchum atratum L., Rosa canina L., Rhus chinensis Mill. and Glycyrrhiza urolensis Fisch. Ex DC. inhibited either abTYR or hsTYR (>50%), while extract from Tribulus terrestris L. had no/minimal activity (<10% inhibition). When treated with melanoma B16F0 cells, M. alba also significantly reduced mmTYR activity (70% at 250 μg/mL) and melanin content (50% at 250 μg/mL). These findings demonstrated inhibitory effects of 9 TCM against TYR and hence support their application as skin lightning agents. Our results also showed discrepancies in TYR activity from different sources, suggesting a testing regime of combining abTYR, hsTYR and mmTYR when developing depigmentation agents for human application.

ANTIAGE-DB: A Database and Server for the Prediction of Anti-Aging Compounds Targeting Elastase, Hyaluronidase, and Tyrosinase

Natural products bear a multivariate biochemical profile with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antitumoral properties. Along with their natural sources, they have been widely used both as anti-aging and anti-melanogenic agents due to their effective contribution in the elimination of reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by oxidative stress. Their anti-aging activity is mainly related to their capacity of inhibiting enzymes like Human Neutrophil Elastase (HNE), Hyaluronidase (Hyal) and Tyrosinase (Tyr). Herein, we accumulated literature information (covering the period 1965–2020) on the inhibitory activity of natural products and their natural sources towards these enzymes. To navigate this information, we developed a database and server termed ANTIAGE-DB that allows the prediction of the anti-aging potential of target compounds. The server operates in two axes. First a comparison of compounds by shape similarity can be performed against our curated database of natural products whose inhibitory potential has been established in the literature. In addition, inverse virtual screening can be performed for a chosen molecule against the three targeted enzymes. The server is open access, and a detailed report with the prediction results is emailed to the user. ANTIAGE-DB could enable researchers to explore the chemical space of natural based products, but is not limited to, as anti-aging compounds and can predict their anti-aging potential. ANTIAGE-DB is accessed online.

Newly Designed Quinazolinone Derivatives as Novel Tyrosinase Inhibitor: Synthesis, Inhibitory Activity, and Mechanism

We synthesized a series of quinazolinone derivates as tyrosinase inhibitors and evaluated their inhibition constants. We synthesized 2-(2,6-dimethylhepta-1,5-dien-1-yl)quinazolin-4(3H)-one (Q1) from the natural citral. The concentration, which led to 50% activity loss of Q1, was 103 ± 2 μM (IC₅₀ = 103 ± 2 μM). Furthermore, we considered Q1 to be a mixed-type and reversible tyrosinase inhibitor, and determined the K_I and K_IS inhibition constants to be 117.07 μM and 423.63 μM, respectively. Our fluorescence experiment revealed that Q1 could interact with the substrates of tyrosine and L-DOPA in addition to tyrosinase. Molecular docking studies showed that the binding of Q1 to tyrosinase was driven by hydrogen bonding and hydrophobicity. Briefly, the current study confirmed a new tyrosinase inhibitor, which is expected to be developed into a novel pigmentation drug.

The genus Alphitonia Reissek ex Endl. (Rhamnaceae): A review of its customary uses, phytochemistry and biological activities

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Alphitonia Reissek ex Endl. is a relatively small genus of the family Rhamnaceae. Plants of this genus are found predominantly in the tropical regions of Southeast Asia, Australia and the Pacific, with some species being widely distributed and others endemic to a region. Almost half of the species of the Alphitonia genus have been reported for their customary (traditional and contemporary) medicinal uses. This includes for the treatment of skin conditions, headache, stomachache, inflammation, and body pain such as joint pain and childbirth.

AIM OF THE REVIEW

The aim of this review is to provide the first comprehensive account on the customary uses including ethnomedicinal uses, and phytochemistry and biological activities of the Alphitonia genus, and to identify gaps in current knowledge and scope for future research of plants of this genus.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Information relevant to the genus Alphitonia was collected by searching the scientific databases (SciFinder, Google Scholar, ACS publications, PubMed, Wiley Online Library and International Plant name Index). Species names were validated using the World Flora Online database (www.worldfloraonline.org).

RESULTS

Eight plants from the Alphitonia genus have been reported to be used as customary medicines, i.e. A. excelsa, A. ferruginea, A. franguloides, A. incana, A. neocaledonica, A. petriei, A. philippinensis and A. zizyphoides. A. excelsa, A. petriei, A. philippinensis and A. zizyphoides, have been shown to have biological activities that align with their customary uses, including antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. Only five Alphitonia species reported for their medicinal customary uses have been explored for their phytochemistry, i.e. A. excelsa, A. neocaledonica, A. petriei, A. philippinensis and A. zizyphoides. Compounds identified from these plants include those that are well known for their medicinal importance. A. macrocarpa, A. whitei and A. xerocarpus have also been examined for their phytochemistry and have been found to have the same or similar bioactive compounds to those found in customarily used Alphitonia species. No biological activities or phytochemistry studies have been reported for the known customarily used medicinal plants A. ferruginea, A. franguloides and A. incana.

CONCLUSIONS

This review highlights the customary uses, biological activities and phytochemistry of plants of the Alphitonia Reissek ex Endl. genus and highlights the significance of the knowledge systems of Indigenous peoples. Of the plants that have been researched for their biological activities and phytochemistry, there is good correlation with these properties and their customary medicinal uses. However, over half of the plants of the Alphitonia genus, including those that are already reported in the public domain for their customary medicinal uses, have had none or limited biological activities or phytochemistry studies conducted. While only eight species of the Alphitonia genus have been reported as customary medicines, other Alphitonia species also possess medicinally important compounds, and it is possible that they are customary medicines but their uses have not been shared publicly by the Indigenous knowledge custodians. There is clearly much scope for further investigation of this genus with regards to their ethnomedicinal uses and therapeutic potential.

8-Methoxybutin inhibits α-MSH induced melanogenesis and proliferation of skin melanoma by suppression of the transactivation activity of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor

Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) is highly expressed in melanocytes and is the main regulator of melanogenesis and melanocyte cell fate. Although MITF is important for the differentiation and development of melanocytes, it is also considered an oncogene of skin melanoma. Based on these findings, MITF could be an attractive therapeutic target for skin cancer intervention. This study identified 8-methoxybutin as an inhibitor of MITF and investigated the underlying mechanism. 8-Methoxybutin inhibited α-MSH-induced melanogenesis in murine melanoma cells (B16F10) and skin melanoma proliferation by reducing melanogenic gene expression via blockade of the transactivation activity of MITF. In silico docking analysis and pull-down analysis suggested that 8-methoxybutin binds to the DNA-binding domain of MITF and further inhibits its binding to the E-box in the promoter of target genes, including tyrosinase. In addition, 8-methoxybutin suppressed growth of skin melanoma in a xenograft mouse model. These results indicate that 8-methoxybutin has potential as a therapeutic agent for hyperpigmentation disorder and skin cancer. SIGNIFICANCE STATEMENT: 8-Methoxybutin inhibits MITF transactivation activity resulting suppression of melanogenesis and skin melanoma growth.

Anti-Oxidant and Anti-Aging Activities of Callus Culture from Three Rice Varieties

The aims of this study were to induce calli from the seeds of three rice varieties (Hommali 105, Munpu, and Niawdum) and investigate their anti-aging potential. First, rice seeds were cultured on a Murashige and Skoog medium (MS medium) supplemented with 2 mg/L of 2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4-D), 1 mg/L of 1-Naphthalene acetic acid (NAA), and 1 mg/L of 6-Benzylaminopurine (BAP). After three weeks, the calli were extracted with ethanol. Then, their phenolic contents were determined by spectrophotometer and the amino acids were identified by ultra-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC). Their cytotoxicity, anti-oxidant (potassium ferricyanide reducing power assay (PFRAP), DPPH radical scavenging assay (DPPH), lipid peroxidation inhibition (LPO), and superoxide dismutase activity (SOD)), and anti-aging (keratinocyte proliferation, anti-collagenase, anti-inflammation, and anti-tyrosinase) activities were also investigated. Munpu callus (385%) was obtained with a higher yield than Hommali (322%) and Niawdum (297%) calli. The results revealed that the phenolic and amino acid contents were enhanced in the calli. Moreover, the calli were rich in glutamic acid, alanine, and gamma aminobutyric acid (GABA). The callus extracts showed no cytotoxic effects at a concentration of equal to or lower than 0.25 mg/mL. The highest anti-oxidant activities (PFRAP (0.81 mg AAE/mL), DPPH (68.22%), LPO (52.21%), and SOD (67.16%)) was found in Munpu callus extract. This extract also had the highest keratinocyte proliferation (43.32%), anti-collagenase (53.83%), anti-inflammation (85.40%), and anti-tyrosinase (64.77%) activities. The experimental results suggest that the amounts of bioactive compounds and anti-aging activities of rice seeds can be enhanced by the induction of callus formation.

Oxidation during Fresh Plant Processing: A Race against Time

Oxidation is a major concern in the food and cosmetics industry; however, little information is available in the literature about its effect during the production of herbal medicines. The impact of oxidation on herbal mother tincture (MT) manufacturing was investigated by performing an oxidative stress test, in which cryogenically ground fresh plants (Echinacea purpurea, Mentha piperita, Ginkgo biloba, and Hypericum perforatum) were exposed to air in a time-controlled manner before extraction. The effect of oxidation on the resulting extracts was evaluated using UV–Vis spectroscopy and potassium permanganate antioxidant assay. Furthermore, a tyrosinase enzymatic assay was performed on MTs to evaluate the behavior of the absorbance spectra of phenolic compounds during oxidation. Additionally, several commercially available herbal mother tinctures were examined for oxidative changes. The exposure of the fresh plant material to air for 30 min decreased the antioxidant activity in all four tested plants by 10% to 44%. This decrease occurred along with an intensity diminution and flattening of the typical UV–Vis absorption spectra of the MTs. The results have shown that the impact of oxidation during MT manufacturing is a serious issue and could be monitored by means of simple UV–Vis spectra recording.

Ziziphus lotus (L.) Lam. as a Source of Health Promoting Products: Metabolomic Profile, Antioxidant and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activities

The methanolic extract of the stem bark of a wild species of jujube, Ziziphus lotus (L.) Lam., growing in Sicily, was chemically and biologically investigated. The chemical profile was defined by UHPLC-HR-ESI-Orbitrap/MS analysis whereas antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory activities were investigated by in vitro assays. The extract showed a high total phenolic and flavonoid content (TPC=271.65 GAE/g and TFC=188.11 RE/g extract). Metabolomic analysis revealed a rich phytocomplex characterized by phenols, cyclopeptide alkaloids, and triterpenoid saponins, some of which here detected for the first time. The mushroom tyrosinase inhibition assay displayed that the methanolic extract efficiently inhibits the monophenolase and diphenolase activity. Furthermore, the extract showed a strong ability to scavenge DPPH, a good Fe³⁺ reducing antioxidant power, in addition to a Fe²⁺ chelating activity. Taken together, these results suggest possible novel applications of wild jujube stem bark as a source of potential skin-care agents with several uses in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

Hop Tannins as Multifunctional Tyrosinase Inhibitor: Structure Characterization, Inhibition Activity, and Mechanism

The application of hops could be extended to obtain higher commercial values. Tannins from hops were assessed for their tyrosinase inhibition ability, and the associated mechanisms were explored. Nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and high-performance liquid chromatography–electrospray ionization–tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC–ESI–MS/MS) revealed that the hop tannins were characterized as condensed tannins with (epi)catechin and (epi)gallocatechin as subunits and an average polymerization degree of 10.32. Tyrosinase inhibition assay indicated that hop tannins had an IC₅₀ = 76.52 ± 6.56 μM. Kinetic studies of the inhibition processes indicated the tannins provided inhibition through competitive–uncompetitive mixed reactions. In silico molecule docking showed that tannins were bound to the active site of tyrosinase via hydrogen and electrovalent bonds. Circular dichroism (CD) observed the structural variation in the tyrosinase after reacting with the tannins. Fluorescence quenching analysis and free radical scavenging assays indicated that the tannins had copper ion chelating and antioxidant activities, which may also contribute to inhibition. The intracellular inhibition assay revealed that the melanin was reduced by 34.50% in B16F10 cells. These results indicate that these tannins can be applied as whitening agents in the cosmetics industry.

In vitro cosmeceutical activity of alcoholic extract from chestnut inner shell fermented with Aspergillus sojae

Chestnut inner shell was fermented in solid state with Aspergillus sojae, and then extracted using ethanol (95%) to analyze its cosmeceutical activity and phenolic composition. The fermentation significantly increased the antioxidant activity, and in vitro cosmeceutical activities. The ethanol extract showed the higher activities than ethyl acetate and water extracts. DPPH radical scavenging activity of the alcoholic extract was 80.53%, and tyrosinase and elastase inhibition activities were 101.01%, and 76.73%, respectively, after 10 days of fermentation. Kojic acid, a secondary metabolite of A. sojae was produced by the fermentation as a major bioactive component. Gallic acid, ellagic acid, and coumaric acid appeared the major phenolic acids in the alcoholic extract from fermented chestnut inner shell. The alcoholic extract from chestnut inner shell fermented by A. sojae may be used as an effective and bioactive cosmeceutical.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s10068-022-01044-9.

Molecular Docking, Synthesis, and Tyrosinase Inhibition Activity of Acetophenone Amide: Potential Inhibitor of Melanogenesis

Tyrosinase and its related proteins are responsible for pigmentation disorders, and inhibiting tyrosinase is an established strategy to treat hyperpigmentation. The carbonyl scaffolds can be effective inhibitors of tyrosinase activity, and the fact that both benzoic and cinnamic acids are safe natural substances with such a scaffolded structure, it was speculated that hydroxyl-substituted benzoic and cinnamic acid derivatives may exhibit potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity. These moieties were incorporated into new chemotypes that displayed in vitro inhibitory effect against mushroom tyrosinase with a view to explore antimelanogenic ingredients. The most active compound, 2-((3-acetylphenyl)amino)-2-oxoethyl(E)-3-(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)acrylate (5c), inhibited mushroom tyrosinase with an IC50 of $0.0020\pm 0.0002\mu \text{M}$ , while 2-((3-acetylphenyl)amino)-2-oxoethyl 2,4-dihydroxybenzoate (3c) had an IC50 of $27.35\pm 3.6\mu \text{M}$ in comparison to the positive control arbutin and kojic acid with a tyrosinase inhibitory activity of IC50 of $191.17\pm 5.5\mu \text{M}$ and IC50 of $16.69\pm 2.8\mu \text{M}$ , respectively. Analysis of enzyme kinetics revealed that 5c is a competitive and reversible inhibitor with dissociation constant (Ki) value 0.0072 μM. In silico docking studies with mushroom tyrosinase (PDB ID 2Y9X) predicted possible binding modes in the enzymatic pocket for these compounds. The orthohydroxyl of the cinnamic acid moiety of 5c is predicted to form hydrogen bond with the active site side chain carbonyl of Asn 260 (2.16 Å) closer to the catalytic site Cu ions. The acetyl carbonyl is picking up another hydrogen bond with Asn 81 (1.90 Å). The inhibitor 5c passed the panassay interference (PAINS) alerts. This study presents the potential of hydroxyl-substituted benzoic and cinnamic acids and could be beneficial for various cosmetic formulations.

Snail slime-based gold nanoparticles: An interesting potential ingredient in cosmetics as an antioxidant, sunscreen, and tyrosinase inhibitor

Due to their properties, snail slime-based products have been appreciated and used worldwide. So, as an alternative and innovative use of snail slime, it was adopted to induce gold nanoparticles' formation, conferring them interesting properties. By a simple, one-pot, and eco-friendly approach, 14 ± 6 nm wide hybrid gold nanoparticles, having an inorganic metallic core decorated by the slime's main components, were obtained. Among their several properties, their antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition activity were investigated through the DPPH and ABTS and the tyrosinase assays, respectively. After assessing their non-cytotoxicity in our previous work, the results revealed positive responses, enabling their use as a potential novel multifunctional ingredient in cosmetics. Interestingly, the gold nanoparticle photostability, investigated by means of a solar simulator lamp, suggests using them in commercial cosmetic sunscreen products as a potential alternative to the commonly used inorganic sunscreen ingredients. The theoretical Sun Protection Factor was evaluated, obtaining values in the range 0-12. The proposed environmentally friendly and cost-effective protocol for nanoparticle synthesis, following the principles of Green Chemistry, opens a hugely attractive space toward the study of snail slime-based gold nanoparticles as a potential multipurpose platform in cosmetics.

Benzylidene-6-hydroxy-3,4-dihydronaphthalenone chalconoids as potent tyrosinase inhibitors

Background and purpose:

Tyrosinase enzyme has a key role in melanin biosynthesis by converting tyrosine into dopaquinone. It also participates in the enzymatic browning of vegetables by polyphenol oxidation. Therefore, tyrosinase inhibitors are useful in the fields of medicine, cosmetics, and agriculture. Many tyrosinase inhibitors having drawbacks have been reported to date; so, finding new inhibitors is a great need.

Experimental approach:

A variety of 6-hydroxy-3,4-dihydronaphthalenone chalcone-like analogs (C1-C10) have been synthesized by aldol condensation of 6-hydroxy tetralone and differently substituted benzaldehydes. The compounds were evaluated for their inhibitory effect on mushroom tyrosinase by a spectrophotometric method. Moreover, the inhibition manner of the most active compound was determined by Lineweaver-Burk plots. Docking study was done using AutoDock 4.2. The drug-likeness scores and ADME features of the active derivatives were also predicted.

Results/Findings:

Most of the compounds showed remarkable inhibitory activity against the tyrosinase enzyme. 6-Hydroxy-2-(3,4,5-trimethoxybenzylidene)-3,4-dihydronaphthalen-1(2H)-one (C2) was the most potent derivative amongst the series with an IC₅₀ value of 8.8 μM which was slightly more favorable to that of the reference kojic acid (IC₅₀ = 9.7 μM). Inhibitory kinetic studies revealed that C2 behaves as a competitive inhibitor. According to the docking results, compound C2 formed the most stable enzyme-inhibitor complex, mainly via establishing interactions with the two copper ions in the active site. In silico drug-likeness and pharmacokinetics predictions for the proposed tyrosinase inhibitors revealed that most of the compounds including C2 have proper drug-likeness scores and pharmacokinetic properties.

Conclusion and implications:

Therefore, C2 could be suggested as a promising tyrosinase inhibitor that might be a good lead compound in medicine, cosmetics, and the food industry, and further drug development of this compound might be of great interest.

Multidirectional anti-melanoma effect of galactolipids (MGDG-1 and DGDG-1) from Impatiens parviflora DC. and their synergy with doxorubicin

The anti-melanoma potential of galactolipids: MGDG-1 and DGDG-1, isolated from Impatiens parviflora, and their synergistic effect with anticancer drug - doxorubicin (DOX) was investigated. Both compounds demonstrated time- and dose-dependent cytotoxicity against human melanoma cells of different metastatic potential. MGDG-1 was more effective than DGDG-1, with the highest activity against A375 cell line (IC₅₀ = 15.14 μg/mL). Both compounds acted selectively, were devoid of hepatotoxicity or mutagenicity. Additionally, MGDG-1 proved to be a tyrosinase inhibitor. Co-administration of MGDG-1 and DGDG-1 with DOX revealed a synergistic cytotoxic effect on melanoma cells. The cytotoxicity of all tested MGDG-1/DOX and DGDG-1/DOX cocktails was considerably higher than that of each agent administered alone. MGDG-1/DOX (Mix3) reduced the viability of A375 melanoma cells almost totally and this effect was 2-fold more potent as compared to DOX alone. Our study indicates that the overall effect is enhanced with the increasing concentration of MGDG-1 in the cocktail. These results open up a possibility for lowering therapeutic doses of chemotherapeutics such as doxorubicin when co-administrated with galactolipids. Thus, MGDG-1 can be prospectively considered as multidirectional anti-melanoma agent and can be recommended for further in vitro and in vivo studies, especially in search for effective combined therapy.

Recent advances in the design and discovery of synthetic tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinase is a copper-containing metalloenzyme that is responsible for the rate-limiting catalytic step in the melanin biosynthesis and enzymatic browning. As a promising target, tyrosinase inhibitors can be used as skin whitening agents and food preservatives, thus having broad potential in the fields of food, cosmetics, agriculture and medicine. From 2015 to 2020, numerous synthetic inhibitors of tyrosinase have been developed to overcome the challenges of low efficacy and side effects. This review summarizes the enzyme structure and biological functions of tyrosinase and demonstrates the recent advances of synthetic tyrosinase inhibitors from the perspective of medicinal chemistry, providing a better understanding of the catalytic mechanisms and more effective tyrosinase inhibitors.