Natural anti-aging skincare: role and potential

Development of dissolving microneedles loaded with fucoidan for enhanced anti-aging activity: An in vivo study in mice animal model

Skin aging occurs naturally as essential skin components gradually decline, leading to issues such as fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation. Fucoidan, a natural bioactive compound, holds potential for addressing these age-related concerns. However, its hydrophilic nature and substantial molecular weight hinder its absorption into the skin. In this study, we utilized polyvinyl pyrrolidone K30 (PVP) and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) as polymers to fabricate dissolving microneedles loaded with fucoidan (DMN-F). The DMN-F formulations were examined for physical characteristics, stability, permeability, toxicity, and efficacy in animal models. These formulations exhibited consistent polymer blends with a conical structure and uniform cone-shaped design. Microneedle structure and penetration capability gradually decreased with increasing fucoidan concentration, with storage recommended at approximately 33 % relative humidity (RH). Ex vivo studies showed that DMN-F efficiently delivered up to 95.03 ± 2.36 % of the total fucoidan concentration into the skin. In vivo investigations revealed that DMN-F effectively reduced wrinkles, improved skin elasticity, maintained moisture levels, and increased epidermal thickness. Histological images provided additional evidence of DMN-F's positive effects on these aging parameters. The results confirm that the DMN-F formulation effectively delivers fucoidan into the skin, allowing it to treat and mitigate signs of aging.

Skin Aging and the Upcoming Role of Ferroptosis in Geroscience

The skin is considered the most important organ system in mammals, and as the population ages, it is important to consider skin aging and anti-aging therapeutic strategies. Exposure of the skin to various insults induces significant changes throughout our lives, differentiating the skin of a young adult from that of an older adult. These changes are caused by a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic aging. We report the interactions between skin aging and its metabolism, showing that the network is due to several factors. For example, iron is an important nutrient for humans, but its level increases with aging, inducing deleterious effects on cellular functions. Recently, it was discovered that ferroptosis, or iron-dependent cell death, is linked to aging and skin diseases. The pursuit of new molecular targets for ferroptosis has recently attracted attention. Prevention of ferroptosis is an effective therapeutic strategy for the treatment of diseases, especially in old age. However, the pathological and biological mechanisms underlying ferroptosis are still not fully understood, especially in skin diseases such as melanoma and autoimmune diseases. Only a few basic studies on regulated cell death exist, and the challenge is to turn the studies into clinical applications.

Expected role of photodynamic therapy to relieve skin damage in nuclear or radiological emergency: Review

Nuclear and radiological accidents can occur due to poor management, in transportation, radiation therapy and nuclear wards in hospitals, leading to extreme radiation exposure and serious consequences for human health. Additionally, in many of previous radiological accidents, skin damage was observed in patients and survivors due to the high radiation exposure. However, as part of a medical countermeasures in a nuclear/radiological emergency, it is critical to plan for the treatment of radiation-induced skin damage. Hence, the new, non-invasive technology of photodynamic therapy (PDT) is projected to be more effectively used for treating skin damage caused by high-dose radiation. PDT plays an important role in treating, repairing skin damage and promoting wound healing as evidenced by research. This review, highlighted and recommended potential impacts of PDT to repair and decrease radiation-induced skin tissue damage. Moreover, we have suggested some photosensitizer (PS) agent as radio-mitigator drugs to decrease radiobiological effects.

Natural Compounds for Preventing Age-Related Diseases and Cancers

Aging is a multifaceted process influenced by hereditary factors, lifestyle, and environmental elements. As time progresses, the human body experiences degenerative changes in major functions. The external and internal signs of aging manifest in various ways, including skin dryness, wrinkles, musculoskeletal disorders, cardiovascular diseases, diabetes, neurodegenerative disorders, and cancer. Additionally, cancer, like aging, is a complex disease that arises from the accumulation of various genetic and epigenetic alterations. Circadian clock dysregulation has recently been identified as an important risk factor for aging and cancer development. Natural compounds and herbal medicines have gained significant attention for their potential in preventing age-related diseases and inhibiting cancer progression. These compounds demonstrate antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-proliferative, pro-apoptotic, anti-metastatic, and anti-angiogenic effects as well as circadian clock regulation. This review explores age-related diseases, cancers, and the potential of specific natural compounds in targeting the key features of these conditions.

Poly-l-lactic acid microspheres delay aging of epidermal stem cells in rat skin

Objective

Injectable skin fillers offer a wider range of options for cutaneous anti-aging and facial rejuvenation. PLLA microspheres are increasingly favored as degradable and long-lasting fillers. The present study focused solely on the effect of PLLA on dermal collagen, without investigating its impact on the epidermis. In this study, we investigated the effects of PLLA microspheres on epidermal stem cells (EpiSCs).

Methods

Different concentrations of PLLA microspheres on epidermal stem cells (EpiSCs) in vitro through culture, and identification of primary rat EpiSCs. CCK-8 detection, apoptosis staining, flow cytometry, Transwell assay, wound healing assay, q-PCR analysis, and immunofluorescence staining were used to detect the effects of PLLA on EpiSCs. Furthermore, we observed the effect on the epidermis by injecting PLLA into the dermis of the rat skin in vivo.

Results

PLLA microspheres promote cell proliferation and migration while delaying cell senescence and maintaining its stemness. In vitro, Intradermal injection of PLLA microspheres in the rat back skin resulted in delayed aging, as evidenced by histological and immunohistochemical staining of the skin at 2, 4, and 12 weeks of follow-up.

Conclusion

This study showed the positive effects of PLLA on rat epidermis and EpiSCs, while providing novel insights into the anti-aging mechanism of PLLA.

Probing Antioxidant-Related Properties for Phenolic Compounds

In this work, properties related to antioxidant-potential mechanisms (such as the bond dissociation enthalpy, BDE, for the homolytic cleavage of the O-H bond and ionization energies, IEs) were determined for phenol, pyrocatechol, and gallic acid (GA). Both the protonated and deprotonated forms of GA were investigated. The Feller-Peterson-Dixon (FPD) composite method was employed with a variety of computational approaches, i.e., density functional theory, Möller-Plesset perturbation theory, and coupled-cluster-based methods, in combination with large correlation consistent basis sets with extrapolation to the complete basis set limit and consideration of core electron correlation effects. FPD results were compared to experimental and computational data available in the literature, presenting good agreement. For example, the FPD BDE (298 K) obtained for phenol, which was based on valence-correlated MP2/CBS calculations with contributions from correlating all electrons, was determined to be 87.56 kcal/mol, a value that is 0.42 kcal/mol lower than the result obtained in the most recent experiments, 87.98 ± 0.62. Calibration against coupled-cluster calculations was also carried out for phenol. We expect that the outcomes gathered here may help in establishing a general protocol for computational chemists that are interested in determining antioxidant-related properties for phenolic compounds with considerable accuracy as well as to motivate future IE measurements (particularly for GA) to be accomplished in the near future.

Bioactive Compounds and Potential Health Benefits through Cosmetic Applications of Cherry Stem Extract

Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

Diet and skin health: The good and the bad

The skin protects humans from pathogens, ultraviolet light, chemicals, mechanical, thermal, and physical injuries as well as hazardous substances. Other important roles of the skin include the regulation of several important physiological processes of the body, sensing stimuli, synthesis of vitamin D, and immune surveillance. However, aging, diseases and environmental conditions significantly change the skin's behavior and functioning. The treatment and prevention strategies for various skin diseases especially photoaging usually include topical treatment with medical cosmetology, active ingredients and other physical means of photoprotection. In recent times, however, there is an increasing consciousness about the role of diet and nutrition in skin health with certain dietary components emerging as an adequate alternative approach to alleviate and prevent both endogenous and exogenous aging symptoms. Therefore, this narrative review uniquely discusses the basic structure of the skin and also addresses common dermatological signs of damaged skin, the impacts of unhealthy diet habits on the skin, and the beneficial effects of some healthy diet habits on skin health. The information and data were collated from various literature databases and resources such as Science Direct, PubMed, Wiley, Springer, Taylor and Francis, Inflibnet, Scopus, Google, and Google Scholar using relevant keywords Medical Subject Headings (MeSH). In conclusion, diet and nutrition play essential roles in the optimum functioning of the human body, including the skin. Thus, certain diet habits such as less water intake, high-fat diet, refined sugar, and certain food additives are unhealthy and harmful to the skin while alternative healthy diet habits such as adequate water intake; consumption of antioxidants and polyphenolic-rich fruits, vegetables, nuts, and legumes; a low glycemic index diet; probiotics; and phytoestrogens should be adopted to enhance skin health.

Skin Anti-Aging Potential through Whitening and Wrinkle Improvement Using Fermented Oil Derived from Hermetia illucens Larvae

As the aging population increases, so has interest among emerging seniors in anti-aging ingredients that enhance functionality by incorporating fermentation with natural materials. In this study, fermentation conditions for enhancing the functionality of Hermetia illucens larvae oil (HIO) were established, and its anti-aging potential was evaluated. First, the lipase activity and amount of lipid degradation products of the fermentation strains were measured in order to select Lactobacillus gasseri and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum as the strains with high fermentation ability. A fermentation period of 28 d and a fermentation method that uses only the strain culture medium were established by evaluating the fermentation degree after fermenting HIO with the selected strains. The whitening functionality test results of fermented HIO (FHIO) showed an increase of approximately 20% in extracellular tyrosinase inhibition activity compared with HIO. Additionally, within melanocytes, there was a 12% increase in tyrosinase inhibition activity and a 26% enhancement in melanin production inhibition ability. For wrinkle-improving functionality, it was observed that, for fibroblasts, there was a 10% increase in collagen production, a 9% increase in collagenase inhibition ability, and an 8% increase in elastase inhibition ability. Therefore, FHIO was confirmed to be an effective cosmetic raw material, with high functionality for anti-aging within the senior generation. This is achieved through increased whitening and wrinkle-improving functionality.

Chemical profiling and dermatological and anti-aging properties of Syzygium jambos L. (Alston): evidence from molecular docking, molecular dynamics, and in vitro experiments

The phytoconstituents of the aqueous extract from Syzygium jambos L. (Alston) leaves were defined using HPLC-PDA-MS/MS and the antioxidant, anti-aging, antibacterial, and anti-biofilm activities of the extract were in silico and in vitro investigated. The antioxidant activities were performed using in vitro DPPH and FRAP assays as well as H2-DCFDA assay in HaCaT cells in which oxidative stress was induced by UVA radiation. Anti-aging activity was tested in vitro, using aging-related enzymes. The antibacterial, anti-biofilm and inhibitory effects on bacterial mobilities (swarming and swimming) were assessed against Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Results showed that S. jambos aqueous extract contained 28 phytochemicals belonging to different metabolite classes, mainly phenolic acids, gallic acid derivatives, flavonoids, and ellagitannins. Mineral content analysis showed that S. jambos leaves contained moderate amounts of nitrogen, potassium, manganese, magnesium, and zinc, relatively low amounts of phosphorus and copper, and high concentration of calcium and iron. The extract displayed strong antioxidant activities in vitro and inhibited UVA-induced oxidative stress in HaCaT cells. Docking the major compounds identified in the extract into the four main protein targets involved in skin aging revealed an appreciable inhibitory potential of these compounds against tyrosinase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and collagenase enzymes. Moreover, molecular dynamic simulations were adopted to confirm the binding affinity of some selected compounds towards the target enzymes. The extract exhibited pronounced in vitro anti-aging effects, compared to kojic acid and quercetin (the reference compounds). It also inhibited the growth of P. aeruginosa, counteracted its ability to form biofilm, and impeded its swarming and swimming mobilities. Altogether, these findings strongly propose S. jambos leaves as a promising source of bioactive metabolites for the development of natural cosmeceutical and dermatological agents.

The efficacy of antiaging cream with Oxalis dehradunensis R. ethanolic extract as skin aging care among woman agriculture workers

Skin damage and aging are potential health problems for woman agriculture workers. This study aimed to test the efficacy of Oxalis dehradunensis ethanol extract formulated in antiaging cream preparations as an aging treatment in women agriculture workers. The method carried out was an experimental study on woman agriculture workers who were willing to volunteer. The experimental scenario conducted related to the physical quality of antiaging cream products and the efficacy of creams on the skin as an antiaging treatment. Physical quality parameters of antiaging cream include organoleptic assessment, cream emulsion, homogeneity, viscosity, pH, distribution, and skin irritation test to evaluate potential side effects. Skin aging efficacy assessments were conducted on 12 subjects divided into four formula concentration groups. The physical skin identification parameters measured are moisture, pore size, pigmentation or spots, and wrinkles using a skin analyzer. The results found that O. dehradunensis leaf extract formulated as an antiaging cream can neutralize free radicals and is an effective countermeasure against premature skin aging. There were significant differences in the skin characteristics of woman agriculture workers who participated as samples. The formula with 5% concentrate and 7% extract of O. dehradunensis has provided a reaction and is more effective in continuous treatment. It provides skin moisture changes of more than 300%, disguises pore size and good pigmentation, and reduces wrinkles of farmers who are constantly exposed to chemicals and free radicals in their agricultural activities. The leaf extracts antiaging cream showed more significant changes in moisture and skin pigmentation. It was concluded that the use of O. dehradunensis leaf extract as the core ingredient of antiaging cream can be an innovation that is beneficial to the health of the farming community, especially among women agriculture workers.

Exploring the potential of the nano-based sunscreens and antioxidants for preventing and treating skin photoaging

Excessive exposure to sunlight, especially UV irradiation, causes skin photodamage. Sunscreens, such as TiO2 and ZnO, can potentially prevent UV via scattering, reflection, and absorption. Topical antioxidants are another means of skin photoprotection. Developing nanoparticles for sunscreens and antioxidants is recommended for photoaging prevention and treatment as it can improve uncomfortable skin appearance, stability, penetration, and safety. This study reviewed the effects of nano-sized sunscreens and antioxidants on skin photoprevention by examining published studies and articles from PubMed, Scopus, and Google Scholar, which explore the topics of skin photoaging, skin senescence, UV radiation, keratinocyte, dermal fibroblast, sunscreen, antioxidant, and nanoparticle. The researchers of this study also summarized the nano-based UV filters and therapeutics for mitigating skin photoaging. The skin photodamage mechanisms are presented, followed by the introduction of current skin photoaging treatment. The different nanoparticle types used for topical delivery were also explored in this study. This is followed by the mechanisms of how nanoparticles improve the UV filters and antioxidant performance. Lastly, recent investigations were reviewed on nanoparticulate sunscreens and antioxidants in skin photoaging management. Sunscreens and antioxidants for topical application have different concepts. Topical antioxidants are ideal for permeating into the skin to exhibit free radical scavenging activity, while UV filters are prescribed to remain on the skin surface without absorption to exert the UV-blocking effect without causing toxicity. The nanoparticle design strategy for meeting the different needs of sunscreens and antioxidants is also explored in this study. Although the benefits of using nanoparticles for alleviating photodamage are well-established, more animal-based and clinical studies are necessary.

Wheat Ceramide Powder Mitigates Ultraviolet B-Induced Oxidative Stress and Photoaging by Inhibiting Collagen Proteolysis and Promoting Collagen Synthesis in Hairless Mice

The protective effects of wheat ceramide powder (WC-P) on ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin oxidative stress and photoaging in hairless mice were investigated in this study. Moreover, the activities of antioxidant enzymes, inflammation, wrinkle formation-related pathway, and moisturizing capacity were evaluated. Mice were randomly divided into six groups (n=8): normal control (non-UVB irradiation), control (UVB irradiation), L-ascorbic acid [positive control, UVB irradiation with dietary supplementation of L-ascorbic acid at 100 mg/kg/body weight (bw)], WC-P5 (UVB irradiation with dietary supplementation of WC-P at 5 mg/kg/bw), WC-P20 (UVB irradiation with dietary supplementation of WC-P at 20 mg/kg/bw), and WC-P40 (UVB irradiation with dietary supplementation of WC-P at 40 mg/kg/bw). AIN-96G diet and water were supplemented ad libitum, and 100 mL of L-ascorbic acid and WC-P dissolved in water were forcefully administered orally to mice. UVB irradiation resulted in dehydration and wrinkle formation in the dorsal skin of mice. However, WC-P supplementation suppressed. Furthermore, WC-P supplementation enhanced the activites of antioxidant enzymes and expression of transforming growth factor-β receptor I, procollaten C-endopeptideas enhancer protein, hyaluronan synthase, and ceramide synthase 4 and reduced the activation of the inflammation and the c-Jun N-terminal kinase/c-FOS/c-Jun- mediated matrix metalloproteinase pathways. These findings demonstrate that WC-P can protect the skin from UVB-induced oxidative stress, inflammation, and photoaging by inhibiting collagen proteolysis and promoting collagen synthesis, thereby promoting skin health.

Tamarix articulata extract offers protection against toxicity induced by beauty products in Hs27 human skin fibroblasts

The current study evaluates the cytotoxicity, mode of cell death and chemical analysis of selected beauty products and evaluation of the protective effect of Tamarix articulata (TA) extract against toxicity induced by beauty products in skin fibroblasts (Hs27). MTT and Crystal violet (CV) assays were used to determine the dose-dependent cytotoxic effects of beauty products against Hs27 fibroblasts. DNA fragmentation assay and annexin-V staining were conducted to determine the mode of cell killing induced by evaluated beauty products. Quantification of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and antioxidant enzyme levels were used to evaluate the oxidative stress. Chemical analysis and heavy metals were evaluated to determine beauty products. Pre-treatment with TA extract for different time points followed by time-dependent exposure with beauty products to assess the protective effect of TA extract in Hs27 cells was analyzed by MTT and CV assays. Owing to the presence of various harmful heavy metals such as arsenic (As), chromium (Cr), cadmium (Cd), nickel (Ni), and lead (Pb) in beauty products, our results revealed that all beauty products induce significant cytotoxicity over time (1, 4 h) in a dose-dependent (125, 250, 500 μg/mL) manner. DNA fragmentation assay, quantification of apoptosis by annexin-V staining, determination of ROS and antioxidant enzymes (CAT, GSH-Px and SOD) revealed that the induced cytotoxicity was caused by oxidative stress-mediated apoptosis. However, pre-incubation with a safe dose (50 μg/mL) of TA for different times (24, 48 h) followed by exposure to various doses (62.5, 125, 250, 500 μg/mL) of beauty products for different times (1, 4 h) revealed significant (*p≤0.05, **p≤0.01) protection against beauty product-mediated cytotoxicity. The effect was more pronounced for 1 h exposure to beauty products compared to 4 h. Our study demonstrates that the due to the presence of heavy metals in synthetic beauty products exhibit marked toxicity to skin fibroblasts due to oxidative stress-mediated apoptosis. However, the presence of abundant bioactive polyphenols with promising antiscavenging activity in TA extracts significantly nullifies cytotoxicity promoted by examined beauty products in skin fibroblasts (Hs27).

Antiaging Effects of Topical Defensins

Topical defensins have recently gained attention as agents to improve skin composition. This study aimed to aggregate and synthesize studies in the literature assessing the effects of topical defensins on skin composition in the context of its ability to combat signs of aging.

Approaches in line with human physiology to prevent skin aging

Skin aging is a complex process that is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors that impact the skin's protective functions and overall health. As the body's outermost layer, the skin plays a critical role in defending it against external threats, regulating body temperature, providing tactile sensation, and synthesizing vitamin D for bone health, immune function, and body homeostasis. However, as individuals age, the skin undergoes structural and functional changes, leading to impairments in these essential functions. In contemporary society, there is an increasing recognition of skin health as a significant indicator of overall wellbeing, resulting in a growing demand for anti-aging products and treatments. However, these products often have limitations in terms of safety, effective skin penetration, and potential systemic complications. To address these concerns, researchers are now focusing on approaches that are safer and better aligned with physiology of the skin. These approaches include adopting a proper diet and maintaining healthy lifestyle habits, the development of topical treatments that synchronize with the skin's circadian rhythm, utilizing endogenous antioxidant molecules, such as melatonin and natural products like polyphenols. Moreover, exploring alternative compounds for sun protection, such as natural ultraviolet (UV)-absorbing compounds, can offer safer options for shielding the skin from harmful radiation. Researchers are currently exploring the potential of adipose-derived stem cells, cell-free blood cell secretome (BCS) and other endogenous compounds for maintaining skin health. These approaches are more secure and more effective alternatives which are in line with human physiology to tackle skin aging. By emphasizing these innovative strategies, it is possible to develop effective treatments that not only slow down the skin aging process but also align better with the natural physiology of the skin. This review will focus on recent research in this field, highlighting the potential of these treatments as being safer and more in line with the skin's physiology in order to combat the signs of aging.

The Potential of Mangifera indica L. Peel Extract to Be Revalued in Cosmetic Applications

The constant growth of the cosmetic industry, together with the scientific evidence of the beneficial properties of phytochemicals, has generated great interest in the incorporation of bioactive extracts in cosmetic formulations. This study aims to evaluate the bioactive potential of a mango peel extract for its incorporation into cosmetic formulations. For this purpose, several assays were conducted: phytochemical characterization; total phenolic content (TPC) and antioxidant potential; free-radical scavenging capacity; and skin aging-related enzyme inhibition. In addition, the extract was incorporated into a gel formulation, and a preliminary stability study was conducted where the accelerated (temperature ramp, centrifugation, and heating/cooling cycles) and long-term (storage in light and dark for three months) stability of the mango peel formulations were evaluated. The characterization results showed the annotation of 71 compounds, gallotannins being the most representative group. In addition, the mango peel extract was shown to be effective against the •NO radical with an IC50 of 7.5 mg/L and against the hyaluronidase and xanthine oxidase enzymes with IC50 of 27 mg/L and 2 mg/L, respectively. The formulations incorporating the extract were stable during the stability study. The results demonstrate that mango peel extract can be a by-product to be revalorized as a promising cosmetic ingredient.

Dermato-cosmeceutical properties of Pseudobombax ellipticum (Kunth) Dugand: Chemical profiling, in vitro and in silico studies

Plant extracts and their individual components have been used to manage skin aging for several decades. Recently, the discovery of new natural bioactive agents, that not only enhance the skin health but also offer protection against various deleterious factors, such as free radicals, ultraviolet radiation, and microbial infections, has been a potential target by many researchers. The aim of the current work was to investigate the phytochemical profile of an ethanol bark extract from Pseudobombax ellipticum, and to evaluate its antioxidant, antiaging and antibacterial activities in vitro. Molecular docking and molecular dynamics studies were adopted to estimate and confirm the binding affinity of several compounds and explain their binding pattern at the binding sites of four target enzymes associated with skin aging, namely collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase, and hyaluronidase. HPLC-MS/MS analysis led to the tentative identification of 35 compounds comprising phenolic acids, and their glycosides, procyanidins and flavonoid glycosides. The extract demonstrated a promising in vitro antioxidant activity in the DPPH and FRAP assays (IC50 56.45 and 15.34 μg/mL, respectively), and was able to inhibit the aforementioned key enzymes with comparable results to the reference drugs. In addition, the extract (6.25 mg/mL) inhibited the biofilm production of Pseudomonas aeruginosa and diminished the swimming and swarming motilities. The docked compounds revealed appreciable binding energy with the tested enzymes and were stable throughout the molecular dynamic simulations. In view of this data, P. ellipticum bark can be regarded as a good candidate for prospective application in derma-cosmeceutical preparations.

Highly stable and fast-dissolving ascorbic acid-loaded microneedles

OBJECTIVES

Ascorbic acid has many benefits to the skin. Numerous attempts to promote its topical delivery show great challenges since its chemical instability and poor skin impermeability. Microneedle delivery is a simple, safe, painless and effective means to deliver therapeutic or nourishing molecules into the skin. The purpose of this study was twofold: (a) to develop a new formulation of ascorbic acid-loaded microneedles to enhance ascorbic acid stability by investigating an optimal amount of polyethyleneimine as an additive to the dextran-based microneedle formulation and (b) to assess microneedle properties in terms of dissolving rate, skin penetration ability, biocompatibility and antimicrobial activity.

METHODS

The microneedles formulated with ascorbic acid and varied polyethyleneimine concentrations were fabricated and subsequently tested for ascorbic acid stability using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl assay. The dissolution rate and skin penetration depth were investigated in porcine skin and the reconstructed human full-thickness skin model respectively. The skin irritation tests were done according to the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development Test Guideline No. 439. An antimicrobial disc susceptibility test was performed against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis.

RESULTS

Among varied amounts of 0%, 1.5%, 3.0% and 4.5% (w/v), the 3.0% polyethyleneimine showed the most desirable characteristics, including well-preserved shape integrity after demoulding, significantly improved stability of ascorbic acid (p < 0.001) from 33% to 96% antioxidant activity after 8 weeks of storage at 40°C, increased dissolving rate (p < 0.001) by being completely dissolved within 2 min after the skin insertion, passing skin penetration and biocompatibility tests as well as having a broad spectrum of antimicrobial property.

CONCLUSION

With a safety profile and enhanced properties, the new formulation of ascorbic acid-loaded microneedles shows outstanding potential as commercially available cosmetics and healthcare products.

A Cocktail-Based Formula for the Design of Nanosized Cosmeceuticals as Skincare and Anti-Age Products

Nasco and Bovale grape pomace extracts, alone or in association, were loaded in nanoemulsions tailored for cosmetic application, using Kolliphor®RH40 (kolliphor) as the synthetic surfactant, Olivem®1000 (olivem) as the natural one, and lecithin as the cosurfactant. Pink transparent or milky dispersions, as a function of the used extract and surfactant, were obtained to be used as cosmeceutical serum or milk. The sizes of the nanoemulsion droplets were small (≈77 nm with kolliphor and ≈141 nm with olivem), homogenously dispersed (~0.24 with kolliphor and ~0.16 with olivem), highly negatively charged (≈-43 mV irrespective of the used surfactant) and their stability either on storage or under stressing conditions was affected by the used extract and surfactant. Formulations protected the extracts from the degradation caused by UV exposition, were biocompatible against keratinocytes, protected them against oxidative damages induced using hydrogen peroxide and inhibited the release of nitrite induced in macrophages using the lipopolysaccharide inflammatory stimulus. The overall results underlined the key role played by the composition of the formula to achieve a suitable cosmeceutical for skin care but even for the prevention of premature aging and chronic damages caused by the stressing conditions.

Chlorin E6-Curcumin-Mediated Photodynamic Therapy Promotes an Anti-Photoaging Effect in UVB-Irradiated Fibroblasts

Skin photoaging due to ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) that increase matrix metalloproteinase (MMP). Chlorin e6-photodynamic therapy (Ce6-PDT), in addition to being the first-line treatment for malignancies, has been shown to lessen skin photoaging, while curcumin is well known for reducing the deleterious effects of ROS. In the current study, PDT with three novel Ce6-curcumin derivatives, a combination of Ce6 and curcumin with various linkers, including propane-1,3-diamine for Ce6-propane-curcumin; hexane-1,6-diamine for Ce6-hexane-curcumin; and 3,3'-((oxybis(ethane-2,1-diyl))bis(oxy))bis(propan-1-amine) for Ce6-dipolyethylene glycol (diPEG)-curcumin, were studied for regulation of UVB-induced photoaging on human skin fibroblast (Hs68) and mouse embryonic fibroblast (BALB/c 3T3) cells. We assessed the antiphotoaging effects of Ce6-curcumin derivatives on cell viability, antioxidant activity, the mechanism of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and 2 (MMP-2) expression, and collagen synthesis in UVB-irradiated in vitro models. All three Ce6-curcumin derivatives were found to be non-phototoxic in the neutral red uptake phototoxicity test. We found that Ce6-hexane-curcumin-PDT and Ce6-propane-curcumin-associated PDT exhibited less cytotoxicity in Hs68 and BALB/c 3T3 fibroblast cell lines compared to Ce6-diPEG-curcumin-PDT. Ce6-diPEG-curcumin and Ce6-propane-curcumin-associated PDT showed superior antioxidant activity in Hs68 cell lines. Further, in UVB-irradiated in vitro models, the Ce6-diPEG-curcumin-PDT greatly attenuated the expression levels of MMP-1 and MMP-2 by blocking mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs), activator protein 1 (AP-1), and tumor necrosis factor-α (NF-κB) signaling. Moreover, Ce6-diPEG-curcumin effectively inhibited inflammatory molecules, such as cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) expression, while accelerating collagen synthesis. These results demonstrate that Ce6-diPEG-curcumin may be a potential therapy for treating skin photoaging.

ATP supplementation suppresses UVB-induced photoaging in HaCaT cells via upregulation of expression of SIRT3 and SOD2

BACKGROUND

Skin photoaging is the damage caused by excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation. We investigated the effect of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) supplementation on UVB-induced photoaging in HaCaT cells and its potential molecular mechanism.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The toxicity of ATP on HaCaT cells was examined by the MTT assay. The effects of ATP supplementation on the viability and apoptosis of HaCaT cells were determined by crystal-violet staining and flow cytometry, respectively. Cellular and mitochondrial ROS were stained using fluorescent dyes. Expression of Bax, B-cell lymphoma (Bcl)-2, sirtuin (SIRT)3, and superoxide dismutase (SOD)2 was measured via western blotting.

RESULTS

ATP (1, 2 mM) exerted no toxic effect on the normal growth of HaCaT cells. UVB irradiation caused the apoptosis of HaCaT cells, and ATP supplementation inhibited the apoptosis induced by UVB significantly, as verified by expression of Bax and Bcl-2. UVB exposure resulted in accumulation of cellular and mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS), but ATP supplementation suppressed these increases. Expression of SIRT3 and SOD2 was decreased upon exposure to UVB irradiation but, under ATP supplementation, expression of SIRT3 and SOD2 was reversed, which was consistent with the reduction in ROS level observed in ATP-treated HaCaT cells after exposure to UVB irradiation.

CONCLUSIONS

ATP supplementation can suppress UVB irradiation-induced photoaging in HaCaT cells via upregulation of expression of SIRT3 and SOD2.

The Prospects of Algae-Derived Vitamins and Their Precursors for Sustainable Cosmeceuticals

Aquatic algae are a rich source of a wide range of bioproducts intended to compete for a sizable global market share. Thanks to the gradual shift towards the use of natural products, microalgae-derived bioactive compounds offer an ecofriendly and vegan option to the cosmeceutical sector, whose products aim to improve skin health but currently consist of mostly synthetic chemicals. In particular, algae-derived vitamins and their precursors are being explored and widely used in the cosmeceuticals industry as compounds that contain biologically active ingredients with therapeutic benefits. The present review highlights the current strategies for industrial production of an array of vitamins from algae for cosmeceutical applications. When compared to traditional plant sources, algae have been found to accumulate vitamins, such as A, B1, B2, B6, B12, C and E, in high concentrations. The purpose of this review is to provide context for the development of a green and sustainable algae-derived bioeconomy by summarizing and comparing the current market for vitamins and precursors derived from algae, as well as presenting novel strategies and key findings from the most recent research in this area. Emphasis is placed on novel biotechnological interventions that encompass genetic modifications, genetic engineering, and media development to enhance vitamin biosynthesis.

Hydrolipidic Characteristics and Clinical Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Formulation for the Improvement of Homeostasis on Oily Mature Skin

BACKGROUND

Although the scientific literature associates mature skin with dry skin and the secretion of sebum on the face decreases over the years, in tropical countries, such as Brazil, mature skin can still present oily characteristics. Thus, the knowledge of the hydrophilic characteristics of mature skin is fundamental to help the development of more effective treatments for this skin type. In this context, the study aimed to evaluate the hydrophilic characteristics and the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for mature skin added with alfalfa and lentil extracts by using biophysical and skin imaging techniques.

METHODS

Twenty-eight healthy females aged between 45 and 59 years were enrolled. Measurements of the stratum corneum water content, sebum content, transepidermal water loss, skin microrelief, and pores count were performed before and after the 28-day formulation application.

RESULTS

The mature skin presented as oily with wrinkles and pores. The proposed formulation significantly reduced the sebum content and the number of fine and large pores and improved skin microrelief and hydration after a 28-day period of the application when compared to the vehicle.

CONCLUSIONS

The proposed formulation was effective in oily mature skin treatment, improving its general skin aging and oiliness conditions, and reducing pores count in just 28 days.

Fabrication and evaluation of herbal beads to slow cell ageing

Several therapies and cosmetics are available commercially to prevent or delay cell ageing, which manifests as premature cell death and skin dullness. Use of herbal products such as Aloe vera, curcumin, vitamin C-enriched natural antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory biomolecules are potential ways to prevent or delay ageing. Eggshell membrane (ESM) is also a rich source of collagen; glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) also play an essential role in healing and preventing ageing. It is important to use an extended therapeutic process to prolong the effectiveness of these products, despite the fact that they all have significant anti-ageing properties and the ability to regenerate healthy cells. Encapsulated herbal components are therefore designed to overcome the challenge of ensuring continued treatment over time to prolong the effects of a bioactive component after in situ administration. To study their synergistic effects on a cellular level, alginate, Aloe vera, and orange peel extract were encapsulated in bio-polymeric foaming beads and modified with eggshell membrane protein (ESMP) at various concentrations (1 gm, 2 gm, and 5 gm): (A-Av-OP, A-Av-OP-ESMP1, ESMP2, and ESMP3). Analysis of the structural and functional properties of foaming beads showed interconnected 3D porous structure, a surface-functionalized group for entrapment of ESMP, and a significant reduction in pore size (51-35 m) and porosity (80%-60%). By performing DPPH assays, HRBC stabilization assays, and antibacterial tests, the beads were assessed as a natural anti-ageing product with sustained release of molecules effective against inflammatory response, oxidative stress, and microbial contamination. MTT assays were conducted using in vitro cell cultures to demonstrate cytocompatibility (in mouse 3T3 fibroblast cells) and cytotoxicity (in human carcinoma HeLa cells). Our study demonstrates that bio-polymeric ESMP beads up to 2 g (A-Av-OP-ESMP2) are practical and feasible natural remedies for suspending defective cell pathways, preventing cell ageing, and promoting healthy cell growth, resulting in a viable and practical natural remedy or therapeutic system.

Rhodophyta as Potential Sources of Photoprotectants, Antiphotoaging Compounds, and Hydrogels for Cosmeceutical Application

Seaweeds are macroscopic, multicellular, eukaryotic and photosynthetic organisms, and are a source of chemical diversity with powerful biological activities for diversified industrial applications including cosmeceuticals. Red seaweeds (Rhodophyta) are good sources of Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA) for photoprotectant and antiphotoaging compounds. In addition, Rhodophyta are also good sources for hydrogel compounds that are used widely in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries as gelling agents, moisturizers or for their antiphotoaging effects. Our survey and ongoing studies revealed that the biodiversity of Indonesian Rhodophyta is rich and is a treasure trove for cosmeceutical agents including MAA and hydrogels. This study delivers valuable information for identifying potential red seaweeds in screening and searching for cosmeceutical agents.

Recent Advances in Herbal-Derived Products with Skin Anti-Aging Properties and Cosmetic Applications

Although aesthetic benefits are a desirable effect of the treatment of skin aging, it is also important in controlling several skin diseases, mainly in aged people. The development of new dermocosmetics has rapidly increased due to consumers' demand for non-invasive products with lower adverse effects than those currently available on the market. Natural compounds of plant origin and herbal-derived formulations have been popularized due to their various safe active products, which act through different mechanisms of action on several signaling pathways for skin aging. Based on this, the aim of the review was to identify the recent advances in herbal-derived product research, including herbal formulations and isolated compounds with skin anti-aging properties. The studies evaluated the biological effects of herbal-derived products in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies, highlighting the effects that were reported in clinical trials with available pharmacodynamics data that support their protective effects to treat, prevent, or control human skin aging. Thus, it was possible to identify that gallic and ferulic acids and herbal formulations containing Thymus vulgaris, Panax ginseng, Triticum aestivum, or Andrographis paniculata are the most promising natural products for the development of new dermocosmetics with skin anti-aging properties.

Advances in Biomedical Functions of Natural Whitening Substances in the Treatment of Skin Pigmentation Diseases

Pigmentation diseases can lead to significant color differences between the affected part and the normal part, resulting in severe psychological and emotional distress among patients. The treatment of pigmentation diseases with good patient compliance is mainly in the form of topical drugs. However, conventional hydroquinone therapy contributes to several pathological conditions, such as erythema, dryness, and skin desquamation, and requires a longer treatment time to show significant results. To address these shortcomings, natural whitening substances represented by kojic acid and arbutin have gradually become the candidate ingredients of traditional local preparations due to their excellent biological safety. This review focuses on several natural whitening substances with potential therapeutic effects in pigmentation disease and their mechanisms, and a thorough discussion has been conducted into the solution methods for the challenges involved in the practical application of natural whitening substances.

Natural Compounds and Products from an Anti-Aging Perspective

Aging is a very complex process that is accompanied by a degenerative impairment in many of the major functions of the human body over time. This inevitable process is influenced by hereditary factors, lifestyle, and environmental influences such as xenobiotic pollution, infectious agents, UV radiation, diet-borne toxins, and so on. Many external and internal signs and symptoms are related with the aging process and senescence, including skin dryness and wrinkles, atherosclerosis, diabetes, neurodegenerative disorders, cancer, etc. Oxidative stress, a consequence of the imbalance between pro- and antioxidants, is one of the main provoking factors causing aging-related damages and concerns, due to the generation of highly reactive byproducts such as reactive oxygen and nitrogen species during the metabolism, which result in cellular damage and apoptosis. Antioxidants can prevent these processes and extend healthy longevity due to the ability to inhibit the formation of free radicals or interrupt their propagation, thereby lowering the level of oxidative stress. This review focuses on supporting the antioxidant system of the organism by balancing the diet through the consumption of the necessary amount of natural ingredients, including vitamins, minerals, polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA), essential amino acids, probiotics, plants’ fibers, nutritional supplements, polyphenols, some phytoextracts, and drinking water.

Deficiency of miR-29a/b1 leads to premature aging and dopaminergic neuroprotection in mice

Parkinson’s disease (PD) is a neurodegenerative disorder characterized by progressive degeneration of midbrain dopaminergic neurons. The miR-29s family, including miR-29a and miR-29b1 as well as miR-29b2 and miR-29c, are implicated in aging, metabolism, neuronal survival, and neurological disorders. In this study, the roles of miR-29a/b1 in aging and PD were investigated. miR-29a/b1 knockout mice (named as 29a KO hereafter) and their wild-type (WT) controls were used to analyze aging-related phenotypes. After challenged with the neurotoxin 1-methyl-4-phenyl-1,2,3,6-tetrahydropyridine (MPTP), dopaminergic injuries, glial activation, and mouse behaviors were evaluated. Primary glial cells were further cultured to explore the underlying mechanisms. Additionally, the levels of miR-29s in the cerebrospinal fluid (CSF) of PD patients (n = 18) and healthy subjects (n = 17) were quantified. 29a KO mice showed dramatic weight loss, kyphosis, and along with increased and deepened wrinkles in skins, when compared with WT mice. Moreover, both abdominal and brown adipose tissues reduced in 29a KO mice, compared to their WT counterpart. However, in MPTP-induced PD mouse model, the deficiency of miR-29a/b1 led to less severe damages of dopaminergic system and mitigated glial activation in the nigrostriatal pathway, and subsequently alleviated the motor impairments in 3-month-old mice. Eight-month-old mutant mice maintained such a resistance to MPTP intoxication. Mechanistically, the deficiency of miR-29a/b-1 promoted the expression of neurotrophic factors in 1-Methyl-4-phenylpyridinium (MPP⁺)-treated primary mixed glia and primary astrocytes. In lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-treated primary microglia, knockout of miR-29a/b-1 inhibited the expression of inflammatory factors, and promoted the expression of anti-inflammatory factors and neurotrophic factors. Knockout of miR-29a/b1 increased the activity of AMP-activated protein kinase (AMPK) and repressed NF-κB/p65 signaling in glial cells. Moreover, we found miR-29a level was increased in the CSF of patients with PD. Our results suggest that 29a KO mice display the peripheral premature senility. The combined effects of less activated glial cells might contribute to the mitigated inflammatory responses and elicit resistance to MPTP intoxication in miR-29a/b1 KO mice.

Ameliorative effect of methanolic extract of Tribulus terrestris L. on nicotine and lead-induced degeneration of sperm quality in male rats

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The use of herbal and medicinal plants to treat male infertility is well known in history. Tribulus terrestris L. (TT) belongs to the Zygophyllaceae family and it is used in folk medicine to vitalize and also improve both physical performance and sexual function in men in addition to the protective effect of the gross saponins of TT against ischemic stroke and its clinical anti-inflammatory property.

AIM OF THE STUDY

This study aimed to investigate the effects of methanol extract of T. terrestris on nicotine hydrogen tartrate and lead-induced degeneration of sperm quality in male rats and to identify the volatile bioactive non-polar compounds thought to be responsible for its activity using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The effect of T. terrestris on nicotine hydrogen tartrate and lead-induced infertility was evaluated in male rats. Fifty-four mature male albino rats weighing 220-250 g body weight were used. The rats were randomly divided into 9 equal groups (n = 6). Infertility was induced by administering nicotine hydrogen tartrate (0.50 mg/kg) through peritoneal injection (i.p.) or lead acetate (1.5 g/L) orally with drinking water for sixty days. Two doses (50 and 100 mg/kg body weight of the animal) of T. terrestris were also used. At the end of the experimental period, the rats were anesthetized and sacrificed. Blood samples were collected. Hormonal analyses were carried out on the serum. The testicle, epididymis, and accessory sex organs (seminal vesical and prostates) were removed for histopathological analysis. Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis of the methanol extract was also carried out to identify major volatile compounds in T. terrestris methanol extract.

RESULTS

Nicotine and lead toxicity caused a significant (p < 0.05) decrease in the number of sperm, motility, and an increase in the sperm abnormalities such as the reduction in weight and size of sexual organs (testis, epididymis, and accessory sex glands), reduction of diameter and length of seminiferous tubules. The administration of T. terrestris methanol extract, however, improved the semen quantity and quality, sexual organ weights, and fertility of male rats and, thus, ameliorated the adverse effects of nicotine and lead. Ten major compounds were found from the GC-MS analysis of the extract of T. terrestris methanol extract.

CONCLUSION

Findings showed that T. terrestris plant methanolic extracts ameliorated nicotine hydrogen tartrate and lead-induced degeneration of sperm quality in male rats. The GC-MS analysis of the T. terrestris plant methanolic extracts revealed the presence of several important bioactive compounds which were thought to be responsible for the ameliorative effect. Further isolation and evaluation of the individual components would provide relevant lead to finding new drugs.

Trends and challenges in phytotherapy and phytocosmetics for skin aging

•

Free radicals, oxidative stress, and inflammation contribute to the etiology of most chronic diseases.

•

Natural products can be incorporated into cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and nutricosmetics to tackle inflammation-related diseases.

•

The use of alternative green extraction solvents such as natural deep eutectic solvents and electrochemically reduced water is trending.

•

Delivery systems are important for the enhancement of the bioavailability, stability, solubility, and controlled release profile of the bioactives.

Oxidative stress and inflammation mostly contribute to aging and age-related conditions including skin aging. The potential of natural products in the form of naturally-derived cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and nutricosmetics have, however, not been fully harnessed. This review, thus, critically analyzes the potential roles of natural products in inflammation-related skin aging diseases due to the increasing consumers’ concerns and demands for efficacious, safe, natural, sustainable, and religiously permitted alternatives to synthetic products. The information and data were collated from various resources and literature databases such as PubMed, Science Direct, Wiley, Springer, Taylor and Francis, Scopus, Inflibnet, Google, and Google Scholar using relevant keywords and Medical Subject Headings (MeSH). The role of green extraction solvents as promising alternatives is also elucidated. The potential enhancements of the bioavailability, stability, solubility and controlled release profile of the bioactives using different delivery systems are also presented. The current potential global market value, motivators, drivers, trends, challenges, halal, and other regulatory certifications for cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics are equally discussed. The adoption of the suggested extractions and delivery systems would enhance the stability, bioavailability, and target delivery of the bioactives.

Rosmarinus officinalis L. hexane extract: phytochemical analysis, nanoencapsulation, and in silico, in vitro, and in vivo anti-photoaging potential evaluation

A shift towards natural anti-aging ingredients has spurred the research to valorize traditionally used plants. In this context, Rosmarinus officinalis L. was evaluated for its photoprotective, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-wrinkling properties. GC/MS and LC-ESI-HRMS based phytochemical profiling of rosemary leaves hexane extract resulted in the identification of 47 and 31 compounds, respectively and revealed rich content in triterpenoids, monoterpenoids and phenolic diterpenes. In vitro assays confirmed the antioxidant, anti-aging, and wound healing potential of rosemary extract along with a good safety profile, encouraging further development. A systematic molecular modelling study was conducted to elucidate the mechanistic background of rosemary anti-aging properties through the inhibitory effects of its major constituents against key anti-aging targets viz. elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase. Development of rosemary extract lipid nanocapsules-based mucoadhesive gels was performed to improve skin contact, permeation, and bioavailability prior to in vivo testing. The developed formulae demonstrated small particle size (56.55–66.13 nm), homogenous distribution (PDI of 0.207–0.249), and negatively charged Zeta potential (− 13.4 to − 15.6). In UVB-irradiated rat model, topical rosemary hexane extract-loaded lipid nanocapsules-based gel provided photoprotection, restored the antioxidant biochemical state, improved epidermal and dermal histological features, and decreased the level of inflammatory and wrinkling markers. The use of rosemary hexane extract in anti-aging and photoprotective cosmeceuticals represents a safe, efficient, and cost-effective approach.

A Cosmeceutical Topical Water-in-Oil Nanoemulsion of Natural Bioactives: Design of Experiment, in vitro Characterization, and in vivo Skin Performance Against UVB Irradiation-Induced Skin Damages

Introduction

Damage to human skin occurs either chronologically or through repetitive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, where collagen photodegradation leads to the formation of wrinkles and skin imperfections. Consequently, cosmeceutical products containing natural bioactives to restore or regenerate collagen have gained a remarkable attention as an ameliorative remedy.

Methods

This study aimed to develop and optimize collagen-loaded water-in-oil nanoemulsion (W/O NE) through a D-optimal mixture design to achieve an ideal multifunctional nanosystem containing active constituents. Vit E was included as a constituent of the formulation for its antioxidant properties to minimize the destructive impact of UV radiation. The formulated systems were characterized in terms of their globule size, optical clarity, and viscosity. An optimized system was selected and evaluated for its physical stability, in vitro wound healing properties, and in vivo permeation and protection against UV radiation. In addition, the effect of collagen-loaded NE was compared to Vit C-loaded NE and collagen-/Vit C-loaded NEs mixture as Vit C is known to enhance collagen production within the skin.

Results

The optimized NE was formulated with 25% oils (Vit E: safflower oil, 1:3), 54.635% surfactant/cosurfactant (Span 80: Kolliphor EL: Arlasolve, 1:1:1), and 20.365% water. The optimized NE loaded with either collagen or Vit C exhibited a skin-friendly appearance with boosted permeability, and improved cell viability and wound healing properties on fibroblast cell lines. Moreover, the in vivo study and histopathological investigations confirmed the efficacy of the developed system to protect the skin against UV damage. The results revealed that the effect of collagen-/Vit C-loaded NEs mixture was more pronounced, as both drugs reduced the skin damage to an extent that it was free from any detectable alterations.

Conclusion

NE formulated using Vit E and containing collagen and/or Vit C could be a promising ameliorative remedy for skin protection against UVB irradiation.

Recent research progress of biologically active peptides

With the rapid development of molecular biology and biochemical technology, great progress has been made in the study of peptides. Peptides are easy to digest and absorb, with lowering of blood pressure and cholesterol, improving immunity, regulating hormones, antibacterial, and antiviral effects. Peptides also have physiological regulation and biological metabolism functions with applications in the fields of feed production and biomedical research. In the future, the research focus of bioactive peptides will focus on their efficient preparation and application. This article introduces a comprehensive review of the types, synthesis, functionalization, and bio-related applications of bioactive peptides. For this aim, we introduced in detail various biopeptides and then presented the production methods of bioactive peptides, such as enzymatic synthesis, microbial fermentation, chemical synthesis, and others. The applications of bioactive peptides for anticancers, immune therapy, antibacterial, and other applications have been introduced and discussed. And discussed the development prospects of biologically active peptides.

Anti-aging potential of cookies from sea grapes in mice fed on cholesterol- and fat-enriched diet: in vitro with in vivo study

This study determines the effect of cookies made from sea grapes (Caulerpa racemosa) on PGC-1α, total cholesterol, and blood glucose levels on mice fed with a Cholesterol- and Fat-Enriched Diet (CFED). The antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibition, α-glucosidase, and α-amylase inhibition is also analyzed in order to assess the in vitro anti-aging potential of sea grapes cookies. Forty male Mus muscullus albino mice weighing 20 g–30 g were used and randomly distributed into four groups of ten animals each. Group A served as a normal control (given a standard dry pellet diet), Group B was given CFED only, and mice in Groups C and D were given CFED with 100 mg and 200 mg/20 g body weight of sea grapes cookies, respectively for 4 weeks. In vitro study shows that the percentage of inhibition activity of antioxidant, L-Tyrosine, L-Dopa, α-glucosidase, and α-amylase inhibition were 45.65 ± 1.50, 8.95 ± 0.06, 21.31 ± 0.98, 77.12 ± 4.67 and 70.94 ± 0.98, respectively. This study found that group D had better activity in lowering blood glucose than group C (p < 0.0001). In addition, although there was not found significant difference between groups C and D in blood cholesterol reduction and PGC-1α (p = 0.1482), both groups experienced the same effect in total cholesterol reduction and PGC-1α in mice (significantly, p < 0001). Thus, we conclude that sea grapes cookies are proven to improve PGC-1α, total cholesterol, and blood glucose levels in mice fed with CFED. Hence, sea grapes cookies is a potential anti-aging novel-functional food.

Skincare application of medicinal plant polysaccharides - A review

Polysaccharides are macromolecules with important inherent properties and potential biotechnological applications. These complex carbohydrates exist throughout nature, especially in plants, from which they can be obtained with high yields. Different extraction and purification methods may affect the structure of polysaccharides and, due to the close relationship between structure and function, modify their biological activities. One of the possible applications of these polysaccharides is acting on the skin, which is the largest organ in the human body and can be aged by intrinsic and extrinsic processes. Skincare has been gaining worldwide attention not only to prevent diseases but also to promote rejuvenation in aesthetic treatments. In this review, we discussed the polysaccharides obtained from plants and their innovative potential for skin applications, for example as wound-healing, antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, antitumoral, and anti-aging compounds.

Probing the effects of sweet cherry (Prunus avium L.) extract on 2D and 3D human skin models

BACKGROUND

Natural products are not only positioned in the heart of traditional medicine but also in modern medicine as many current drugs are coming from natural sources. Apart from the field of medicine and therapeutics, natural products are broadly used in other industrial fields such as nutrition, skincare products and nanotechnology.

METHODS AND RESULTS

The aim of this study was to assess the effects of sweet cherry (Prunus avium L.) fruit extract from the Greek native cultivar 'Vasiliadi', on the human 2D and 3D in vitro models in order to investigate its potential impact on skin. We focused on 2D culture of primary normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) that were treated with sweet cherry fruit extract. In the first place, we targeted fruit extract potential cytotoxicity by determining ATP intracellular levels. Furthermore, we assessed its potential skin irritability by using 3D skin model. To better understand the bioactivity of sweet cherry fruit. extract, we used qPCR to study the expression of various genes that are implicated in the skin functions. Our experiments showed that sweet cherry fruit extract is non-toxic in 2D keratinocytes culture as well as non-irritant in 3D skin model. Our results revealed that the extract mediated important pathways for the optimum epidermis function such as cell proliferation, immune and inflammatory response.

CONCLUSION

The sweet cherry fruit extracts possesses significant activity in epidermis function without any potential of cytotoxicity or skin irritability, which makes it a rather promising active agent for skincare.

Taxifolin as a Promising Ingredient of Cosmetics for Adult Skin

Active substances, effective in the reduction in or delay of skin changes caused by aging occurring in natural compounds, are desirable. Taxifolin (TXF), a flavonoid of strong antioxidant activity found in the plant Stizolophus balsamita (S. balsamita), has been tested for its biological effects on adult human skin. The aim of the study was to investigate the effects of two creams: 3% S. balsamita extract and 3% TXF on the function of adult skin. In total, 97 Caucasian women with clinical signs of skin aging were investigated. The biophysical and biomechanical skin parameters were measured before and after applying the creams, using Colorimeter CL400, Mexameter MX16, Skin-pH-Meter PH900, Skin-Thermometer ST 500, Glossymeter GL200, and Cutiscan SC100. Patch tests were performed with the investigated products to assess their potential irritant properties. The percutaneous penetration of creams was examined with the use of electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ESI-MS) and confocal Raman spectroscopy. The 3% S. balsamita extract cream reduced hyperpigmentation, erythema, and elevated pH. All the tested preparations were proven to be nonirritant. A higher penetration rate was revealed for the 3% TXF cream than for the 3% S. balsamita extract cream. A total of 3% TXF cream improved skin viscoelasticity. The obtained results suggested that S. balsamita extract and TXF may be considered as ingredients of skincare products for adults.

Ultradeformable vesicles: concepts and applications relating to the delivery of skin cosmetics

Skin aging is a phenomenon resulting in reduced self-confidence, thus becoming a major factor in social determinants of health. The use of active cosmetic ingredients can help prevent skin aging. Transfersomes are well known to be capable of deeply penetrating the dermis. This scoping review provides an insight into transfersomes and their prospective use in anti-aging cosmetics. Numerous reports exist highlighting the successful skin delivery of therapeutic agents such as high-molecular-weight, poorly water soluble and poorly permeable active ingredients by means of transfersomes. Moreover, in vitro and in vivo studies have indicated that transfersomes increase the deposition, penetration and efficacy of active ingredients. However, the use of transfersomes in the delivery of active cosmetic ingredients is limited. Considering their similar physicochemical properties, transfersomes should possess considerable potential as a delivery system for anti-aging cosmetics.

The beauty of biocatalysis: sustainable synthesis of ingredients in cosmetics

Covering: 2015 up to July 2021The market for cosmetics is consumer driven and the desire for green, sustainable and natural ingredients is increasing. The use of isolated enzymes and whole-cell organisms to synthesise these products is congruent with these values, especially when combined with the use of renewable, recyclable or waste feedstocks. The literature of biocatalysis for the synthesis of ingredients in cosmetics in the past five years is herein reviewed.

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose “green cosmetics”, which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.

Potential Use of Amla (Phyllanthus emblica L.) Fruit Extract to Protect Skin Keratinocytes from Inflammation and Apoptosis after UVB Irradiation

Ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure is the primary risk factor for the deadliest type of skin cancer—melanoma. Incorporating natural antioxidants in skin protection products is currently a favored research theme. For this study, we selected Phyllanthus emblica L. fruit extract (PE) to assess its potential use in dermal protection against UVB-induced keratinocyte inflammation and apoptosis. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was used to investigate PE’s phytochemical constituents (ascorbic acid, ellagic acid, gallic acid, chlorogenic acid, and quercetin), while ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP), oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC), total ROS, OH^•, O₂^•−, and H₂O₂-scavenging activities were used to determine the antioxidant properties. PE significantly increased the cell viability (MTT assay) and reduced apoptosis (Hoechst staining) in HaCaT cells exposed to UVB (40 mJ/cm²). PE abolished oxidative stress by reducing the production of intracellular ROS, O₂^•− and H₂O₂ production. Catalase activity (but not superoxide dismutase or glutathione peroxidase activity) was enhanced in keratinocytes incubated with PE prior to UVB exposure. Western blot analysis suggested that PE inhibited cytochrome c release and inhibited the dysregulation of PI3K/Akt without any impact on p38 activation. PE attenuated the inflammatory response to UVB irradiation by inhibiting AP-1, NF-κB, and the mediator PGE₂. Thus, PE is a candidate with great potential for use as an active ingredient in skin care products.

Inhibition of UVA Damage on Human Skin Dermis Fibroblasts by the Isoflavonoid Intermediate Deoxybenzoin-3A

Ultraviolet rays are the main cause of skin aging. Isoflavone structures are good anti-ultraviolet natural compounds and have an especially strong anti-ultraviolet B (UVB) effect. However, the anti-ultraviolet A (UVA) effect of isoflavones is more controversial. Therefore, this study aims to discover which isoflavone analogue possesses a strong anti-ultraviolet A. We found the isoflavonoid intermediate deoxybenzoin-3A (DOB-3A) to be a similar isoflavone structural compound with strong anti-ultraviolet A effects. Ultraviolet rays with a wavelength of 350 nm are used to irradiate the fibroblasts of the human skin. Western blot, flow cytometry, and transmission electron microscope analyses were used to explore its anti-ultraviolet A mechanism. We established the results that DOB-3A (1) reduced the death of fibroblasts caused by ultraviolet A, (2) avoided the damage to the organelles and structures after UVA irradiation, (3) inhibited the generation of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and hydrogen peroxide-induced damage, and (4) decreased the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK) caused by UVA. Based on the above findings, DOB-3A is a very good anti-ultraviolet A isoflavone-related structure. Because it is simple to synthesize and has good effects, DOB-3A is a suitable anti-ultraviolet A product with an isoflavone structure. Moreover, DOB-3A's structure provides a reference for the synthesis of anti-UVA isoflavones.

Skin Protective Activity of LactoSporin-the Extracellular Metabolite from Bacillus Coagulans MTCC 5856

Background: Probiotics and their products are increasingly used in skincare in recent years. Postbiotics are defined as any substance derived through the metabolic activity of a probiotic microorganism, which exerts a direct or indirect beneficial effect on the host. The extracellular metabolites of probiotic bacteria have antimicrobial activities, protect against acne, and improve skin condition. We studied skin protective activities of the extracellular metabolite (LactoSporin) of a spore-forming probiotic Bacillus coagulans MTCC 5856 in vitro. Methods: LactoSporin was evaluated for antioxidant activity by free radical scavenging activity and reactive oxygen quenching activity in human dermal fibroblast cells. Protection of fibroblasts from UV-induced apoptosis and cell death was studied by flow cytometry and neutral red uptake assays. Enzyme inhibition assays were carried out for collagenase, Elastase, and Hyaluronidase. Gene expression studies were carried out using polymerase chain reaction. Results: LactoSporin showed antioxidant activity and was found to protect skin cells from UV-induced apoptosis and cell death. LactoSporin inhibited collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase activity and upregulated the expression of hyaluronan synthase, transforming growth factor and epidermal growth factor, which are associated with extracellular matrix integrity. Conclusions: These results suggest LactoSporin is a skin protective postbiotic with wide application in cosmetic formulations.