Sunscreens and their usefulness: have we made any progress in the last two decades?

The Tiny Big Difference: Nanotechnology in Photoprotective Innovations - A Systematic Review

UV radiation causes long- and short-term skin damage, such as erythema and skin cancer. Therefore, the use of sunscreens is extremely important. However, concerns about UV filter safety have prompted exploration into alternative solutions, with nanotechnology emerging as a promising avenue. This systematic review identified 23 experimental studies utilizing nanocarriers to encapsulate sunscreens with the aim of enhancing their efficacy and safety. Polymeric and lipid nanoparticles are frequently employed to encapsulate both organic and inorganic UV filters along with natural antioxidants. Nanocarriers have demonstrated benefits including reduced active ingredient usage, increased sun protection factor, and mitigated photoinstability. Notably, they also decreased the skin absorption of UV filters. In summary, nanocarriers represent a viable strategy for improving sunscreen formulations, offering enhanced physicochemical properties and bolstered photoprotective effects, thereby addressing concerns regarding UV filter safety and efficacy in cosmetic applications.

The dark side of beauty: an in-depth analysis of the health hazards and toxicological impact of synthetic cosmetics and personal care products

Over the past three decades, the popularity of cosmetic and personal care products has skyrocketed, largely driven by social media influence and the propagation of unrealistic beauty standards, especially among younger demographics. These products, promising enhanced appearance and self-esteem, have become integral to contemporary society. However, users of synthetic, chemical-based cosmetics are exposed to significantly higher risks than those opting for natural alternatives. The use of synthetic products has been associated with a variety of chronic diseases, including cancer, respiratory conditions, neurological disorders, and endocrine disruption. This review explores the toxicological impact of beauty and personal care products on human health, highlighting the dangers posed by various chemicals, the rise of natural ingredients, the intricate effects of chemical mixtures, the advent of nanotechnology in cosmetics, and the urgent need for robust regulatory measures to ensure safety. The paper emphasizes the necessity for thorough safety assessments, ethical ingredient sourcing, consumer education, and collaboration between governments, regulatory bodies, manufacturers, and consumers. As we delve into the latest discoveries and emerging trends in beauty product regulation and safety, it is clear that the protection of public health and well-being is a critical concern in this ever-evolving field.

Decoding the photoprotection strategies and manipulating cyanobacterial photoprotective metabolites, mycosporine-like amino acids, for next-generation sunscreens

The most recent evaluation of the impacts of UV-B radiation and depletion of stratospheric ozone points out the need for effective photoprotection strategies for both biological and nonbiological components. To mitigate the disruptive consequences of artificial sunscreens, photoprotective compounds synthesized from gram-negative, oxygenic, and photoautotrophic prokaryote, cyanobacteria have been studied. In a quest to counteract the harmful UV radiation, cyanobacterial species biosynthesize photoprotective metabolites named as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). The investigation of MAAs as potential substitutes for commercial sunscreen compounds is motivated by their inherent characteristics, such as antioxidative properties, water solubility, low molecular weight, and high molar extinction coefficients. These attributes contribute to the stability of MAAs and make them promising candidates for natural alternatives in sunscreen formulations. They are effective at reducing direct damage caused by UV radiation and do not lead to the production of reactive oxygen radicals. In order to better understand the role, ecology, and its application at a commercial scale, tools like genome mining, heterologous expression, and synthetic biology have been explored in this review to develop next-generation sunscreens. Utilizing tactical concepts of bio-nanoconjugate formation for the development of an efficient MAA-nanoparticle conjugate structure would not only give the sunscreen complex stability but would also serve as a promising tool for the production of analogues. This review would provide insight on efforts to produce MAAs by diversifying the biosynthetic pathways, modulating the precursors and stress conditions, and comprehending the gene cluster arrangement for MAA biosynthesis and its application in developing effective sunscreen.

Sunscreen compound benzophenone-3 and its relationship with white blood cell counts

BACKGROUND

Evidence from animal models suggests a role for the organic ultraviolet filter benzophenone-3's (BP-3) on white blood cells (WBCs). However, BP-3's effect on WBCs in humans is unknown.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We used National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey data from 2003 to 2016. We included participants >6 years with data on urinary BP-3, urinary creatinine, and WBC count. Quintiles of urinary creatinine-normalized BP-3 (CnBP-3) levels were used in linear regression models adjusting for age, gender, race, body mass index (BMI), smoking status, education level, family income to poverty threshold ratio, survey cycle, and season.

RESULTS

Of the 16 959 participants, 8564 (50.5%) were females, 6602 (38.9%) were White, and 3870 (22.8%) were Black. The mean (standard deviation) age was 37.6 (22.7) years, BMI was 26.8 (7.40) kg/m2, WBC count was 7.22 (2.53) × 109/L, neutrophil count was 4.15 (1.86) × 109/L, and lymphocyte count was 2.25 (1.33) × 109/L and median (interquartile range) of CnBP-3 was 12.1 (44.9) µg/gm. The highest quintile of CnBP-3 was associated with significantly lower WBC and neutrophil counts compared to the lowest quintile of CnBP-3 (Δ quintiles = -137 × 106/L, 95% CI: -249 to -24, p = 0.02 and = -177 × 106/L, 95% CI: -323 to -30, p = 0.02, respectively). In contrast, we did not observe a difference in lymphocyte count between the lowest and highest quintiles of CnBP-3 in unadjusted or adjusted analyses.

CONCLUSION

We found an inverse relationship between BP-3 levels and WBC and neutrophil counts, and not with lymphocyte count. Further research is needed to confirm our findings.

Awareness and knowledge of sun exposure and use of sunscreen among adults in Aseer region, Saudi Arabia

Background

Excessive sun exposure and inadequate sunscreen use can lead to skin cancer and other harmful effects on the skin, eyes, and immune system.

Purpose

This observational cross-sectional study aimed to assess awareness and knowledge of sun exposure and sunscreen use among adults in the Aseer region, Saudi Arabia. This study also focused on evaluating the risks of skin cancer and participants' sun-protective attitudes and practices.

Methods

A population-based cross-sectional study was conducted among adults in the Aseer region, Saudi Arabia. Data were collected using a questionnaire from November 2022 to January 2023 that assessed participants' knowledge, practices, and beliefs regarding sun exposure and sunscreen use. A total of 400 participants were selected for the study. Approval for the study was granted by the Local Research Ethics Committee of the University of Bisha, Saudi Arabia.

Results

The results revealed that (59.8 %) of the participants were female, while (40.3 %) were male. Regarding age, the majority fell within the 26-35 age range (37.5 %), with (16.0 %) of participants using sunscreen regularly, with a total of (74.0 %) of participants using sunscreen. Men exhibited a higher prevalence of negative attitudes towards sun protection, while women demonstrated more favourable sun protection practices. In addition, (1.25 %) of the participants had skin cancer in the past; (81.0 %) of participants agreed that skin cancer could cause death, while (19.0 %) were unsure of the effects of skin cancer. Moreover, the results indicated that sun exposure had a significant positive effect on awareness levels (p < 0.05), indicating that increased sun exposure was associated with higher awareness of the harmful effects of the sun. Additionally, awareness level significantly positively affected sunscreen use (p < 0.01), suggesting that individuals with higher awareness were more likely to use sunscreen.

Conclusion

There was an average awareness of sun exposure and its detrimental effects. In addition, a significant portion of the population demonstrates proactive measures to minimize sunlight exposure. However, sunscreen usage among Saudi adults was low despite having knowledge and awareness. Future research must enhance sun protection practices and reduce sun-related skin damage in the Aseer region.

The topical application of different galenic formulations can alter the thermographic images of skin: Limitations for public thermal screening on infection control situations

BACKGROUND

To analyze whether the application of topical formulas as cosmetics or sunscreens could affect the skin thermographic readings in terms of infection control in pandemic situations.

METHODS

The temperature of the skin of the dorsal region of the back and the face of 20 volunteers was followed after the application of 6 different types of gels, sunscreens, and make-up under controlled temperature and humidity conditions. High-resolution thermographic images were analyzed to calculate the temperature of treated skin compared to skin free of topical products.

RESULTS

The application of hydroalcoholic gel resulted in a mean drop of more than 2°C just after 1 minute followed by organic sunscreens until 1.7°C. Recovery was observed progressively until minute 9. Color make-up type formulas, rich in iron oxide as well as sunscreens with mineral filters had little or no effect on the skin thermal response.

CONCLUSIONS

It is possible to alter the skin temperature almost immediately by using hydroalcoholic gels and sunscreen cosmetics. So, it is possible to produce false negative data in the readings of patients screened thermically.

Ring buckling and C=N isomerization pathways for efficient photoprotection in two nature-inspired UVA sunscreens revealed through ultrafast dynamics and high-level calculations

Sunscreens provide a frontline defense for our DNA against the damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The active ingredients in topically applied sunscreens that provide this defense are UV filters, which preferentially absorb or reflect UV radiation before it penetrates the skin and interacts with photosensitive nucleic acids. However, there are concerns related to human and environmental toxicity of current UV filters, and consequently a shift toward nature-inspired, particularly microbial, UV filters. In this paper, new physical insight is provided into the fundamental mechanisms of photoprotection in two synthetic analogs of mycosporine-like amino acid-type UV filters, demonstrating new methods of protection that are distinct from those of current commercial sunscreens, extending previous work in this area. Transient absorption measurements (both transient electronic absorption spectroscopy and transient vibrational absorption spectroscopy) are combined with steady-state studies and high-level computational results to aid our mapping of the experimentally derived lifetimes to real-time photodynamic processes. The conclusions reached here pave the way toward developing new and more efficient biomimetic DNA photoprotectant materials.

Photoprotection Knowledge, Habits, and Attitudes Among Spanish and Italian Medical Students

Exposure to UV radiation is a major risk factor for the development of malignant skin neoplasms. Currently, there are no studies available on sun-exposure habits among different countries. We conducted a cross-sectional survey among medical students from the University of Rome, Italy and the University of Granada, Spain to compare their photoprotection knowledge, habits, and attitudes. A total of 215 medical students (114 Spanish, and 101 Italian) were included. Spanish students considered the Sun to be the main cause of skin cancer (83.3% vs 61.4%, P=.003) and they looked at their skin more often than Italian students did (32.5% vs 9.9%, P <.001). The latter received information on photoprotection mainly from their dermatologist (34.7%, 35/101) vs Spaniards who received such information from their university (39.5%, 45/114; P <.001). After studying dermatology, Spaniards used sunscreen more frequently than Italians did (76.8% before vs 88.1% after; P=.007), and recognised the need to implement other measures as well (44.9% vs 67.2%; P=.025).

The impact of methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) UVA1 filter on pigmentary and ageing signs: An outdoor prospective 8-week randomized, intra-individual comparative study in two populations of different genetic background

BACKGROUND

Of all ultraviolet (UV) radiations reaching the earth, UVA1 rays have a higher potential of penetrating and producing clinically harmful consequences. While UV radiations up to 370 nm are well-blocked by current sunscreens, a photoprotection gap remains for the UVA1 wavelengths between 370 and 400 nm.

OBJECTIVE

This study was to assess under outdoor summer conditions the impact on pigmentation and skin ageing signs of a protection against UVA1 using methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) filter added to a reference SPF50 sunscreen, in comparison with the same sunscreen without the MCE filter.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

This prospective randomized comparative intra-individual study was conducted in 113 women in Brazil and China. Subjects had their face and two forearms exposed twice-daily to a 1-h outdoor sunlight exposure over 8 weeks. Before exposure, the SPF50 sunscreen containing 3% MCE was applied on one half-face and one forearm and the same reference product without MCE on the other half-face and forearm. Primary study endpoint was skin colour changes (chromametry). Other endpoints included expert panel grading of pigmentation and facial skin ageing, and naïve panel assessment of facial skin radiance and homogeneity.

RESULTS

After 8 weeks, the skin was darker on both forearms but the increase in sun-induced pigmentation was smaller with the SPF50/MCE sunscreen. Expert panel evaluations showed no change in severity scores for pigmentation and a decreased severity scores for facial skin ageing in areas protected with the SPF50/MCE product: severity scores in areas protected with the SPF50 alone were either increased (pigmentation) or unchanged (skin ageing). Naïve panel evaluations of skin radiance and homogeneity showed statistically significant superiority of the SPF50/MCE product.

CONCLUSION

Overall, this study demonstrates that a protection with the SPF50/MCE sunscreen significantly reduces pigmentation and ageing signs compared to the same SPF50 sunscreen.

The Use of Hemispheric Directional Reflectance Method to Verify the Usefulness of Filters Protecting the Skin Against Infrared Radiation

Introduction

Infrared radiation (IR) has a wide spectrum of both positive and harmful effects on the human body. Negative properties, manifested by increasing the level of reactive oxygen species (ROS), affect the skin ageing acceleration. Other adverse effect of infrared exposure is related to its ability to significantly penetrate deep into the skin, between its layers, up to blood vessels and other tissues and warm them up. Due to its harmful effects, protecting the skin against infrared radiation becomes an important issue.

Aim

The aim of the research was verifying the usefulness of filters available on the market with protection against infrared radiation declared by the manufacturers, by examining their impact on the directional reflectance of the human skin.

Methods

A group of 27 people was gathered, to obtain the results. Four products were applied on the participant's forearm skin, and then measurements of the directional reflectance of the skin were made at successive time points, using the 410-Solar reflectometer. The collected data was analyzed, and showed changes in reflectance under the influence of the applied protective products.

Results

The products used in the study showed a statistically significant effect on the directional reflectance of the human skin in near infrared radiation range and little effectiveness for higher wavelengths.

Discussion

The results indicate that the selected products show radiation protection against IR radiation only after several dozen minutes of application, which may suggest that they must penetrate deeper skin layers to be effective. Hemispheric directional reflectance turned out to be an effective method allows to assess the effectiveness of protective properties of cosmetics.

An immunomodulating peptide to counteract solar radiation-induced immunosuppression and DNA damage

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) induces immunosuppression and DNA damage, both of which contribute to the rising global incidence of skin cancer including melanoma. Nucleotide excision repair, which is activated upon UVR-induced DNA damage, is linked to expression of interleukin-12 (IL-12) which serves to limit immunosuppression and augment the DNA repair process. Herein, we report an immunomodulating peptide, designated IK14800, that not only elicits secretion of IL-12, interleukin-2 (IL-2) and interferon-gamma (IFN-γ) but also reduces DNA damage in the skin following exposure to UVR. Combined with re-invigoration of exhausted CD4+ T cells, inhibition of UVR-induced MMP-1 release and suppression of B16F10 melanoma metastases, IK14800 offers an opportunity to gain further insight into mechanisms underlying the development and progression of skin cancers.

Effects of Commercial Sunscreens on Survival, Reproduction and Embryonic Development of the Aquatic Snail Biomphalaria glabrata (SAY, 1818)

Over the past few years, there has been a significant increase in the use of sunscreens. Consequently, the occurrence in aquatic environments of ultraviolet filters has also increased. The present study aims to evaluate the toxicity of two commercial sunscreens to the aquatic snail Biomphalaria glabrata. Acute assays were performed with adult snails exposed to solutions of the two products in synthetic soft water. Reproduction and development assays were carried out, involving individual adult and egg masses exposure to assess fertility and embryonic development. Sunscreen A showed a LC₅₀-96 h of 6.8 g/L and reduction in number of eggs and egg masses per individual in the concentration of 0.3 g/L. Sunscreen B presented higher malformation rates in 0.4 g/L with 63% of malformed embryos. Results indicate that the formulation used in sunscreens is an important factor in aquatic toxicity and needs to be evaluated before the final product is commercialized.

Hyperoside as a UV Photoprotective or Photostimulating Compound-Evaluation of the Effect of UV Radiation with Selected UV-Absorbing Organic Compounds on Skin Cells

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a non-ionizing radiation, which has a cytotoxic potential, and it is therefore necessary to protect against it. Human skin is exposed to the longer-wavelength components of UV radiation (UVA and UVB) from the sun. In the present paper, we focused on the study of eight organic UV-absorbing compounds: astragalin, beta-carotene, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, hyperoside, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, pachypodol, and trans-urocanic acid, as possible protectives of skin cells against UVA and UVB radiation. Their protective effects on skin cell viability, ROS production, mitochondrial membrane potential, liposomal permeability, and DNA integrity were investigated. Only some of the compounds studied, such as trans-urocanic acid and hyperoside, had a significant effect on the examined hallmarks of UV-induced cell damage. This was also confirmed by an atomic force microscopy study of morphological changes in HaCaT cells or a study conducted on a 3D skin model. In conclusion, hyperoside was found to be a very effective UV-protective compound, especially against UVA radiation. Commonly used sunscreen compounds such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, and 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor turned out to be only physical UV filters, and pachypodol with a relatively high absorption in the UVA region was shown to be more phototoxic than photoprotective.

Biomineralization: A new tool for developing eco-sustainable Ti-doped hydroxyapatite-based hybrid UV filters

It is well known that the prolonged exposure to UV radiation from sunlight can compromise human health and is particularly damaging to the skin, leading to sunburn, photo-aging and skin cancer. Sunscreen formulations containing UV-filters present a barrier against solar UV and help to mitigate the harmful effects however, concern about their safety for both human and environmental health is still a much-debated topic. EC regulations classify UV-filters depending on their chemical nature, particle size, and mechanism of action. Furthermore, it regulates their use in cosmetic products with specific limitations in terms of concentration (organic UV filters) and particle size and surface modification to reduce their photo-activity (mineral UV filters). The regulations have prompted researchers to identify new materials that show promise for use in sunscreens. In this work, biomimetic hybrid materials composed of titanium-doped hydroxyapatite (TiHA) grown on two different organic templates, derived from animal (gelatin - from pig skin) and vegetable (alginate - from algae) sources. These novel materials were developed and characterized to obtain sustainable UV-filters as a safer alternative for both human and ecosystem health. This 'biomineralization' process yielded TiHA nanoparticles that demonstrated high UV reflectance, low photoactivity, good biocompatibility and an aggregate morphology which prevents dermal penetration. The materials are safe for topical application and for the marine environment; moreover, they can protect organic sunscreen components from photodegradation and yield long-lasting protection.

Educational level-dependent melanoma awareness in a high-risk population in Switzerland

Introduction

The worldwide incidence of melanoma has been increasing rapidly in recent decades with Switzerland having one of the highest rates in Europe. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is one of the main risk factors for skin cancer. Our objective was to investigate UV protective behavior and melanoma awareness in a high-risk cohort for melanoma.

Methods

In this prospective monocentric study, we assessed general melanoma awareness and UV protection habits in at-risk patients (≥100 nevi, ≥5 dysplastic nevi, known CDKN2A mutation, and/or positive family history) and melanoma patients using questionnaires.

Results

Between 01/2021 and 03/ 2022, a total of 269 patients (53.5% at-risk patients, 46.5% melanoma patients) were included. We observed a significant trend toward using a higher sun protection factor (SPF) in melanoma patients compared with at-risk patients (SPF 50+: 48% [n=60] vs. 26% [n=37]; p=0.0016). Those with a college or university degree used a high SPF significantly more often than patients with lower education levels (p=0.0007). However, higher educational levels correlated with increased annual sun exposure (p=0.041). Neither a positive family history for melanoma, nor gender or Fitzpatrick skin type influenced sun protection behavior. An age of ≥ 50 years presented as a significant risk factor for melanoma development with an odd's ratio of 2.32. Study participation resulted in improved sun protection behavior with 51% reporting more frequent sunscreen use after study inclusion.

Discussion

UV protection remains a critical factor in melanoma prevention. We suggest that melanoma awareness should continue to be raised through public skin cancer prevention campaigns with a particular focus on individuals with low levels of education.

Molecular mechanisms of Marine-Derived Natural Compounds as photoprotective strategies

Excessive exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) causes oxidative stress, inflammation, immunosuppression, apoptosis, and changes in the extracellular matrix, which lead to the development of photoaging and photodamage of skin. At the molecular level, these pathological changes are mainly caused by the activation of related protein kinases and downstream transcription pathways, the increase of matrix metalloproteinase, the formation of reactive oxygen species, and the combined action of cytokines and inflammatory mediators. At present, the photostability, toxicity, and damage to marine ecosystems of most sun protection products in the market have affected their efficacy and safety. Another way is to use natural products produced by various marine species. Marine organisms have evolved a variety of molecular strategies to protect themselves from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, and their unique chemicals have attracted more and more attention in the research of photoprotection and photoaging resistance. This article provides an extensive description of the recent literature on the potential of Marine-Derived Natural Compounds (MDNCs) as photoprotective and photoprotective agents. It reviews the positive effects of MDNCs in counteracting UV-induced oxidative stress, inflammation, DNA damage, apoptosis, immunosuppression, and extracellular matrix degradation. Some MDNCs have the potential to develop feasible solutions for related phenomena, such as photoaging and photodamage caused by UVR.

Uptake of nanoparticles from sunscreen physical filters into cells arising from increased environmental microwave radiation: increased potential risk of the use of sunscreens to human health

This study examines the microwave chemical risks posed by photocatalysts present in sunscreens (physical filters) against the increasing use of microwaves (radio waves) in the environment, sometimes referred to as electronic smog. Specifically, the study assesses the damage caused by silica-coated physical filters (photocatalysts, TiO_2⋅ and/or ZnO) contained in commercially available sunscreens and fresh silica-coated ZnO for sunscreens to mouse skin fibroblasts cells (NIH/3T3) evaluated in vitro by the life/death of cells using two types of electromagnetic waves: UV light and microwave radiation, and under simultaneous irradiation with both UV light and microwaves. Conditions of the electromagnetic waves were such as to be of lower light irradiance than that of UVA/UVB radiation from incident sunlight, and with microwaves near the threshold power levels that affect human health. The photocatalytic activity of the physical filters was investigated by examining the degradation of the rhodamine B (RhB) dye in aqueous media and by the damage caused to DNA plasmids from E. coli. Compared to the photocatalytic activity of ZnO and TiO₂ when irradiated with UV light alone, a clear enhanced photocatalytic activity was confirmed upon irradiating these physical filters concurrently with UV and microwaves. Moreover, the uptake of these metal oxides into the NIH/3T3 cells led to the death of these cells as a result of the enhanced photocatalytic activity of the metal oxides on exposure to microwave radiation.

The dynamic behaviour of sunscreens under in-service conditions

Discussion continues over various aspects of sunscreen science: regulation, test methods, sun protection factor (SPF), labelling claims, potentially harmful components, among others. In this paper the UV transmission properties of a number of commercial sunscreens have been determined at constant sunscreen film thickness under different local UV Index conditions. The data demonstrate difficulties facing the public and the sunscreen industry as a whole, even though SPF values and other data stated on the sunscreen packaging are assumed to be correct according to standard testing methods. This work has shown that at realistic application rates the critical factors are the intensity of the incident solar radiation and the accumulated erythema UV dose transmitted over time. In one example, on 'Extreme' UV Index days, an SPF 30 sunscreen under test transmitted one minimal erythema dose (MED) of UV in only 35 min. In another example, although it should not, in theory, transmit one MED until several hours of exposure, this level was reached in 1 h by an SPF 50 sunscreen under these typical Australian summer conditions (UV Index 12) in Wollongong, NSW (34.4°S). Such properties could have severe consequnces if these sunscreens were used by individuals with Fitzpatrick Skin Type 1, organ transplant recipients or other immuno-compromised individuals.

Elucidating the photoprotective properties of natural UV screening agents: ZEKE-PFI spectroscopy of methyl sinapate

As a prominent derivative of a natural sunscreen, methyl sinapate is an ideal candidate to provide fundamental insight into strategies on how to come to a rational design of artificial sunscreen filters with improved photoprotective properties. Here, static and time-resolved Zero Kinetic Energy-Pulsed Field Ionization (ZEKE-PFI) photoelectron spectroscopy has been used to study the spectroscopy and decay pathways of its electronically excited states. We find that different conformers are subject to distinct structural changes upon electronic excitation, and trace the structural changes that occur upon excitation back to the character of the LUMO. Ionization efficiency spectra in combination with pump-probe ZEKE-PFI spectra are consistent with the conclusion that the long-lived electronically excited state observed in the decay of the lowest excited singlet state is the lowest excited triplet state. Concurrently with providing information on the electronically excited states, the studies allow for a detailed characterization of the spectroscopic properties of the ground state of the radical ion, which is important in the context of the use of cinnamates in nature as antioxidants. Our studies determine the adiabatic ionization energies of the syn/cis, anti/cis and anti/trans conformers as 60 291.1 ± 0.5, 60 366.9 ± 0.5 and 60 503.9 ± 1.0 cm^-1, respectively, and provide accurate vibrational fequencies of low-frequency modes of the molecular ion in its electronic ground state. Finally, the studies emphasize the important role of vibrational and electronic autoionization processes that start to dominate the ionization dynamics in non-rigid molecules of the present size.

Illuminating the Effect of the Local Environment on the Performance of Organic Sunscreens: Insights From Laser Spectroscopy of Isolated Molecules and Complexes

Sunscreens are essential for protecting the skin from UV radiation, but significant questions remain about the fundamental molecular-level processes by which they operate. In this mini review, we provide an overview of recent advanced laser spectroscopic studies that have probed how the local, chemical environment of an organic sunscreen affects its performance. We highlight experiments where UV laser spectroscopy has been performed on isolated gas-phase sunscreen molecules and complexes. These experiments reveal how pH, alkali metal cation binding, and solvation perturb the geometric and hence electronic structures of sunscreen molecules, and hence their non-radiative decay pathways. A better understanding of how these interactions impact on the performance of individual sunscreens will inform the rational design of future sunscreens and their optimum formulations.

Global trends of sunscreen research literature: A bibliometric analysis over the period of 2010–2020

Objective:

Materials and Methods:

Results:

Conclusion:

The Use of Calcium Phosphates in Cosmetics, State of the Art and Future Perspectives

Calcium phosphates (CaPs) belong to a class of biomimetic materials widely employed for medical applications thanks to their excellent properties, such as biodegradability, biocompatibility and osteoinductivity. The recent trend in the cosmetics field of substituting potentially hazardous materials with natural, safe, and sustainable ingredients for the health of consumers and for the environment, as well as the progress in the materials science of academics and chemical industries, has opened new perspectives in the use of CaPs in this field. While several reviews have been focused on the applications of CaP-based materials in medicine, this is the first attempt to catalogue the properties and use of CaPs in cosmetics. In this review a brief introduction on the chemical and physical characteristics of the main CaP phases is given, followed by an up-to-date report of their use in cosmetics through a large literature survey of research papers and patents. The application of CaPs as agents in oral care, skin care, hair care, and odor control has been selected and extensively discussed, highlighting the correlation between the chemical, physical and toxicological properties of the materials with their final applications. Finally, perspectives on the main challenges that should be addressed by the scientific community and cosmetics companies to widen the application of CaPs in cosmetics are given.