The microstructure of the stratum corneum lipid barrier: mid-infrared spectroscopic studies of hydrated ceramide:palmitic acid:cholesterol model systems

Lipid Biomimetic Models as Simple Yet Complex Tools to Predict Skin Permeation and Drug-Membrane Biophysical Interactions

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models.

Unraveling the Molecular Mechanisms of Alcohol-Mediated Skin Permeation Enhancement: Insights from Molecular Dynamics Simulations

The application of alcohols as permeation enhancers in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations has attracted considerable attention, owing to their skin permeation-enhancing effect. Nonetheless, the elucidation of the fundamental mechanisms underlying the skin permeation-enhancing effect remains elusive. In this study, molecular dynamics (MD) simulations were employed to investigate the effect of 1,2-propanediol (1,2-PDO), 1,2-butanediol (1,2-BDO), and ethanol (EtOH) on the stratum corneum (SC) model membrane. The results showed that the effect of alcohols on the SC model membrane displayed a concentration-dependent nature. The alcohols can interact with SC lipids and exhibit a remarkable ability to selectively extract free fatty acid (FFA) molecules from the SC model membrane and make the SC looser. Meanwhile, 1,2-BDO and EtOH can penetrate into SC lipid bilayers at higher concentrations, leading to the formation of continuous hydrophilic defects in SC. The FFA extraction and the formation of continuous hydrophilic defects induced ceramide (CER) tail chains to become more disordered and fluid and also weakened the hydrogen bonding (H-bonding) network among SC lipids. Both the FFA extraction and the continuous hydrophilic defect formation endowed alcohols with the permeation-enhancing effect. The constrained simulations revealed that the free energy barriers decreased for the permeation of the hydrophilic model molecule (COL) across the SC model membranes containing alcohols, particularly for 1,2-BDO and EtOH. The possible permeation-enhancing mechanisms of alcohols were proposed correspondingly. This work not only provided a deep understanding of the transdermal permeation-enhancing behavior of alcohols at the molecular level but also provided necessary reference information for designing effective transdermal drug delivery systems in applications.

Synthesis and self-assembling of hyaluronan grafted with ceramide NP for topical drug delivery

In this work, amphiphilic hyaluronan was synthesized by grafting succinylated N-oleoyl-phytosphingosine via esters bonds. Succinylated N-oleoyl-phytosphingosine (sCER) was first prepared by esterification of hydroxyl moieties of the ceramide with succinic anhydride. The esterification of hyaluronan was governed by crowding effect. The oligomeric HA-sCER derivatives exhibited a strong self-aggregation as evidenced by a very low critical aggregation concentration (1.9 μg mL-1), higher pyrene binding constant (KB), and the smallest particle size (30 nm) in solution. The self-aggregation properties demonstrated to be a function of the substitution degree and molecular weight of HA. The prepared derivatives were non-cytotoxic towards cell lines NIH-3T3. Nanoparticles prepared using oligomeric HA-sCER derivatives improved the penetration of Nile red dye through the stratum corneum due to their smaller size (≤50 nm). The fluorescence intensity localized at the stratum corneum was higher for oligomeric HA-sCER. A significant inhibition of the pro-inflammatory cytokine interleukin-6 production was observed in vitro in macrophages differentiated from THP-1 cells. These findings showed that HA-sCER constituted a promising active ingredient for cosmetics use.

Biomimetic Stratum Corneum Liposome Models: Lamellar Organization and Permeability Studies

The stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of the skin, plays a crucial role as a barrier protecting the underlying cells from external stress. The SC comprises three key components: ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol, along with small fractions of cholesterol sulfate and cholesterol ester. In order to gain a deeper understanding about the interdependence of the two major components, CER and FFA, on the organizational, structural, and functional properties of the SC layer, a library of SC lipid liposome (SCLL) models was developed by mixing CER (phytosphingosine or sphingosine), FFA (oleic acid, palmitic acid, or stearic acid), cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate. Self-assembly of the SC lipids into lamellar phases was first confirmed by small-angle X-ray scattering. Short periodicity and long periodicity phases were identified for SCLLs containing phytosphingosines and sphingosine CERs, respectively. Furthermore, unsaturation in the CER acyl and FFA chains reduced the lipid conformational ordering and packing density of the liposomal bilayer, which were measured by differential scanning calorimetry and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The introduction of unsaturation in the CER and/or FFA chains also impacted the lamellar integrity and permeability. This extensive library of SCLL models exhibiting physiologically relevant lamellar phases with defined structural and functional properties may potentially be used as a model system for screening pharmaceuticals or cosmetic agents.

Polymorphism, Nanostructures, and Barrier Properties of Ceramide-Based Lipid Films

Ceramides belong to sphingolipids, an important group of cellular and extracellular lipids. Their physiological functions range from cell signaling to participation in the formation of barriers against water evaporation. In the skin, they are essential for the permeability barrier, together with free fatty acids and cholesterol. We examined the periodical structure and permeability of lipid films composed of ceramides (Cer; namely, N-lignoceroyl 6-hydroxysphingosine, CerNH24, and N-lignoceroyl sphingosine, CerNS24), lignoceric acid (LIG; 24:0), and cholesterol (Chol). X-ray diffraction experiments showed that the CerNH24-based samples form either a short lamellar phase (SLP, d ∼ 5.4 nm) or a medium lamellar phase (MLP, d = 10.63-10.78 nm) depending on the annealing conditions. The proposed molecular arrangement of the MLP based on extended Cer molecules also agreed with the relative neutron scattering length density profiles obtained from the neutron diffraction data. The presence of MLP increased the lipid film permeability to the lipophilic model permeant (indomethacin) relative to the CerNS24-based control samples and the samples that had the same lipid composition but formed an SLP. Thus, the arrangement of lipids in various nanostructures is responsive to external conditions during sample preparation. This polymorphic behavior directly affects the barrier properties, which could also be (patho)physiologically relevant.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

Structural and Functional Analysis of Excised Skins and Human Reconstructed Epidermis with Confocal Raman Spectroscopy and in Microfluidic Diffusion Chambers

Several ex vivo and in vitro skin models are available in the toolbox of dermatological and cosmetic research. Some of them are widely used in drug penetration testing. The excised skins show higher variability, while the in vitro skins provide more reproducible data. The aim of the current study was to compare the chemical composition of different skin models (excised rat skin, excised human skin and human-reconstructed epidermis) by measurement of ceramides, cholesterol, lactate, urea, protein and water at different depths of the tissues. The second goal was to compile a testing system, which includes a skin-on-a-chip diffusion setup and a confocal Raman spectroscopy for testing drug diffusion across the skin barrier and accumulation in the tissue models. A hydrophilic drug caffeine and the P-glycoprotein substrate quinidine were used in the study as topical cream formulations. The results indicate that although the transdermal diffusion of quinidine is lower, the skin accumulation was comparable for the two drugs. The various skin models showed different chemical compositions. The human skin was abundant in ceramides and cholesterol, while the reconstructed skin contained less water and more urea and protein. Based on these results, it can be concluded that skin-on-a-chip and confocal Raman microspectroscopy are suitable for testing drug penetration and distribution at different skin layers within an exposition window. Furthermore, obese human skin should be treated with caution for skin absorption testing due to its unbalanced composition.

Structure and Interaction of Ceramide-Containing Liposomes with Gold Nanoparticles as Characterized by SERS and Cryo-EM

Due to the great potential of surface-enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) as local vibrational probe of lipid-nanostructure interaction in lipid bilayers, it is important to characterize these interactions in detail. The interpretation of SERS data of lipids in living cells requires an understanding of how the molecules interact with gold nanostructures and how intermolecular interactions influence the proximity and contact between lipids and nanoparticles. Ceramide, a sphingolipid that acts as important structural component and regulator of biological function, therefore of interest to probing, lacks a phosphocholine head group that is common to many lipids used in liposome models. SERS spectra of liposomes of a mixture of ceramide, phosphatidic acid, and phosphatidylcholine, as well as of pure ceramide and of the phospholipid mixture are reported. Distinct groups of SERS spectra represent varied contributions of the choline, sphingosine, and phosphate head groups and the structures of the acyl chains. Spectral bands related to the state of order of the membrane and moreover to the amide function of the sphingosine head groups indicate that the gold nanoparticles interact with molecules involved in different intermolecular relations. While cryogenic electron microscopy shows the formation of bilayer liposomes in all preparations, pure ceramide was found to also form supramolecular, concentric stacked and densely packed lamellar, nonliposomal structures. That the formation of such supramolecular assemblies supports the intermolecular interactions of ceramide is indicated by the SERS data. The unique spectral features that are assigned to the ceramide-containing lipid model systems here enable an identification of these molecules in biological systems and allow us to obtain information on their structure and interaction by SERS.

Inimitable Impacts of Ceramides on Lipid Rafts Formed in Artificial and Natural Cell Membranes

Ceramide is the simplest precursor of sphingolipids and is involved in a variety of biological functions ranging from apoptosis to the immune responses. Although ceramide is a minor constituent of plasma membranes, it drastically increases upon cellular stimulation. However, the mechanistic link between ceramide generation and signal transduction remains unknown. To address this issue, the effect of ceramide on phospholipid membranes has been examined in numerous studies. One of the most remarkable findings of these studies is that ceramide induces the coalescence of membrane domains termed lipid rafts. Thus, it has been hypothesised that ceramide exerts its biological activity through the structural alteration of lipid rafts. In the present article, we first discuss the characteristic hydrogen bond functionality of ceramides. Then, we showed the impact of ceramide on the structures of artificial and cell membranes, including the coalescence of the pre-existing lipid raft into a large patch called a signal platform. Moreover, we proposed a possible structure of the signal platform, in which sphingomyelin/cholesterol-rich and sphingomyelin/ceramide-rich domains coexist. This structure is considered to be beneficial because membrane proteins and their inhibitors are separately compartmentalised in those domains. Considering the fact that ceramide/cholesterol content regulates the miscibility of those two domains in model membranes, the association and dissociation of membrane proteins and their inhibitors might be controlled by the contents of ceramide and cholesterol in the signal platform.

Characterization and ex vivo evaluation of excised skin samples as substitutes for human dermal barrier in pharmaceutical and dermatological studies

BACKGROUND

Excised animal and human skins are frequently used in permeability testing in pharmaceutical research. Several factors exist that may have influence on the results. In the current study some of the skin parameters that may affect drug permeability were analysed for human, mouse, rat and pig skin.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Classic biophysical skin parameters were measured (e.g. pH, hydration, permittivity, transepidermal water loss). Physiological characteristics of the skins were also analysed by confocal Raman spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy and two-photon microscopy.

RESULTS

Based on biophysical testing, skin barrier function was damaged in psoriatic mouse skin and in marketed pig skin. Hydration and pH values were similar among the species, but freezing and thawing reduced the water content of the skins and shifted the surface pH to acidic. Aging reduced hydration and permittivity, resulting in impaired barrier function. Mechanical sensitization used in permeability studies resulted in proportional thinning of dead epidermis.

DISCUSSION

Results indicate that depending on the scientific question it should be considered whether fresh or frozen tissue is used, and for certain purposes rodent skins are well usable. The structure of the skin tissue (ceramide, cholesterol, keratin, natural moisturizing factor or urea) is similar in rats and mice, but due to the higher skin thickness the lipid distribution is different in porcine skin. Psoriasis led to irregular chemical composition of the skin.

CONCLUSION

A comprehensive evaluation of skin samples of four species was performed. The biophysical and microscopic observations should be considered when selecting drug penetration models and experimental conditions.

Comprehensive Mouse Skin Ceramide Analysis on a Solid-Phase and TLC Separation with High-Resolution Mass Spectrometry Platform

Lipidomic analyses by mass spectrometry (MS) of epidermal ceramides, a large family of lipids crucial to the permeability barrier of the skin, have been reported previously. To ensure the accuracy of lipid identification, we describe here the isolation of mouse newborn epidermal lipids followed by fractionation with solid-phase extraction columns, and lipidomic analyses by high-resolution MS for structural identification. We also describe here the employment of thin layer chromatography, an old but useful tool, in facilitating the structural characterization of the epidermal lipid species by MS.

Ceramide Analysis by Multiple Linked-Scan Mass Spectrometry Using a Tandem Quadrupole Instrument

Ceramides are a special class of sphingolipids and play a central role in sphingolipid metabolism, and have diverse structures. In this book chapter, tandem quadrupole mass spectrometric approaches applying multiple linked scannings including various constant neutral loss scan (NLS) and precursor ion scan (PIS), the unique applicable feature of a triple-stage quadrupole (TSQ) instrument for analysis of ceramides desorbed as [M-H]^- and [M+Li]⁺ ions are described. These multiple dimensional tandem mass spectrometric approaches are fully adapted to the conventional shotgun lipidomics workflow with minimal or without prior chromatographic separation to profile ceramide molecules, and thus detection of a whole class of ceramide or various specific ceramide subclasses in crude lipid extract can be achieved. With addition of internal standard(s), semi-quantitation of ceramide in the lipid extract of biological origin is possible. Examples have shown promise in ceramide profiling of several whole lipid extracts from porcine brain, the model Dictyostelium Discoideum cells for cancer study, and skin.

Effects of (R)- and (S)-α-Hydroxylation of Acyl Chains in Sphingosine, Dihydrosphingosine, and Phytosphingosine Ceramides on Phase Behavior and Permeability of Skin Lipid Models

Ceramides (Cers) with α-hydroxylated acyl chains comprise about a third of all extractable skin Cers and are required for permeability barrier homeostasis. We have probed here the effects of Cer hydroxylation on their behavior in lipid models comprising the major SC lipids, Cer/free fatty acids (C ₁₆-C ₂₄)/cholesterol, and a minor component, cholesteryl sulfate. Namely, Cers with (R)-α-hydroxy lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer AS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer AdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer AP) were compared to their unnatural (S)-diastereomers and to Cers with non-hydroxylated lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer NS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer NdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer NP). By comparing several biophysical parameters (lamellar organization by X-ray diffraction, chain order, lateral packing, phase transitions, and lipid mixing by infrared spectroscopy using deuterated lipids) and the permeabilities of these models (water loss and two permeability markers), we conclude that there is no general or common consequence of Cer α-hydroxylation. Instead, we found a rich mix of effects, highly dependent on the sphingoid base chain, configuration at the α-carbon, and permeability marker used. We found that the model membranes with unnatural Cer (S)-AS have fewer orthorhombically packed lipid chains than those based on the (R)-diastereomer. In addition, physiological (R)-configuration decreases the permeability of membranes, with Cer (R)-AdS to theophylline, and increases the lipid chain order in model systems with natural Cer (R)-AP. Thus, each Cer subclass makes a distinct contribution to the structural organization and function of the skin lipid barrier.

Electrospray ionization with higher-energy collision dissociation tandem mass spectrometry toward characterization of ceramides as [M + Li]+ ions: Mechanisms of fragmentation and structural identification

Ceramide is a huge lipid family consisting of diversified structures in which various modifications are seen in the fatty acyl chain and the long chain base (LCB). In this contribution, a higher collision energy (HCD) linear ion-trap mass spectrometric method (LIT MSⁿ) was applied to study the mechanisms underlying the fragmentation processes of ceramide molecules in 12 subclasses, which were desorbed by ESI as the [M + Li]⁺ ions. Multiple sets of fragment ions reflecting the fatty acyl chain and LCB were observed in the HCD MS² spectra for all the ceramide classes, resulting in unambiguous definition of the ceramide structures, including the chain length and the modification (α-hydroxy-, β-hydroxy-, ω-hydroxy-FA) of the fatty acyl moiety, and the types of LCB (sphingosine, phytosphigosine, 6-hydroxy-sphingosine). Thereby, this approach permits differentiation of isomeric structures and ceramide species in the biological specimen can be unveiled in detail. By application of sequential MS³, the double bond position along the fatty acyl chain of the molecule can be located, and a complete structural characterization of ceramides can be achieved.

Phase Separation in Lipid Lamellae Result from Ceramide Conformations and Lateral Packing Structure

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum protect the living body from invasion by allergens and pathogens, and also suppresses water evaporation within the body. It is important to understand how differences in the microstructure of intercellular lipids arise. This microstructure is affected by lipid composition. Studies using intercellular lipid models have reported the formation of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities. However, the details of the packing structure characteristics of the two phases observed in these intercellular lipid models are unclear. Our previous report revealed that different short periodicity phases coexist in the N-(α-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-dihydrosphingosine (CER[ADS]), cholesterol (CHOL), and palmitic acid (PA) complex model. In this study, the characteristics of the packing structure of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities, which were observed in the intercellular lipid model (CER[ADS]/CHOL/PA) that we used previously, were adjusted for models with different lipid compositions. The characteristics of the packed and lamellar structures have been determined by temperature-scanning small-angle X-ray scattering and wide-angle X-ray diffraction measurements simultaneously. These differences in lamellar structure were thought to be caused by differences in ceramides (CER) conformation between the hairpin and the V-shape type. The lamellar structure of the V-shaped CER conformation has a low orthorhombic ratio. The above results suggest that an increase in the ratio of CER with the V-shaped structure causes the lamellar structure to have low orthorhombic ratio, thereby contributing to a decrease in the bilayer's barrier function.

Three-dimensional (3D) imaging of lipids in skin tissues with infrared matrix-assisted laser desorption electrospray ionization (MALDESI) mass spectrometry

Three-dimensional (3D) mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) has become a growing frontier as it has the potential to provide a 3D representation of analytes in a label-free, untargeted, and chemically specific manner. The most common 3D MSI is accomplished by the reconstruction of 2D MSI from serial cryosections; however, this presents significant challenges in image alignment and registration. An alternative method would be to sequentially image a sample by consecutive ablation events to create a 3D image. In this study, we describe the use of infrared matrix-assisted laser desorption electrospray ionization (IR-MALDESI) in ablation-based 3D MSI for analyses of lipids within fresh frozen skin tissue. Depth resolution using different laser energy levels was explored with a confocal laser scanning microscope to establish the imaging parameters for skin. The lowest and highest laser energy level resulted in a depth resolution of 7 μm and 18 μm, respectively. A total of 594 lipids were putatively detected and detailed lipid profiles across different skin layers were revealed in a 56-layer 3D imaging experiment. Correlated with histological information, the skin structure was characterized with differential lipid distributions with a lateral resolution of 50 μm and a z resolution of 7 μm.

Very Long Chain Lipids Favor the Formation of a Homogeneous Phase in Stratum Corneum Model Membranes

The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of mammal epidermis, acts as a barrier dictating the rate of absorption of exogenous molecules through the skin, as well as to prevent excessive water loss from the body. The SC consists of protein-rich corneocytes embedded into a complex lipid mixture. The lipid fraction is mainly constituted of an equimolar mixture of ceramides (Cer), free fatty acids (FFA), and cholesterol (Chol), forming a solid phase in the intracellular space; this lipid phase is supposed to play a fundamental role in the SC barrier function. An unusual characteristic of this biological membrane is that its lipids generally bear very long acyl chains, with the 24-carbon long ones being the most abundant. In this work, we used Raman microspectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy to study the influence of the acyl chain length on the lipid mixing properties in SC model membranes. Our results revealed that the combination of ceramides and FFA bearing a very long chain is required for the formation of homogeneous lipid mixtures, while lipids with shorter chains (16-carbon and 20-carbon atom long) lead to domains with micrometer dimensions. It is proposed that the biological machinery necessary for acyl chain elongation occurring at the mammalian skin level is required to inhibit lipid phase separation, a critical feature in the proper barrier functioning.

Water retention capabilities of collagen, gelatin and peptide as studied by IR/QCM/RH system

In this study, water retention properties of triple helix collagen, gelatin (separated single chains) and peptide (broken peptide fragments) were studied by using IR micro-spectroscopy equipped with a relative humidity (RH) control system and quartz crystal microbalance (QCM). Adsorbed water ratios (wt%) are found to be in the order of collagen, gelatin and peptide (at about RH = 60%, 22 wt% for collagen, 14 wt% for gelatin and 9 wt% for peptide). Free water molecules with longer H bonds are the major adsorbed water species for collagen, gelatin and peptide. IR band shifts and changes in normalized band areas of functional groups are generally larger for collagen than gelatin and peptide, indicating larger interactions of water molecules with functional groups such as aliphatic CH₂, CH₃, amides, COO^- and C-O for collagen. Relations between normalized band areas show that water molecules are interacting with aliphatic CH species and C-O bonds of collagen. Since the fibril structures of collagen triple helices are reported to be cross-linked by sugars, water molecules can be attracted to polar C-O bonds of sugars linking collagen triple helices in fibrils and they are interacting with adjacent aliphatic CH side chains on the surface of fibrils.

Tuning the Thickness of a Biomembrane by Stapling Diamidophospholipids with Bolalipids

In a biological membrane, proteins require specific lipids of distinctive length and chain saturation surrounding them. The active tuning of the membrane thickness therefore opens new possibilities in the study and manipulation of membrane proteins. Here, we introduce the concept of stapling phospholipids to different degrees of interdigitation depth by mixing 1,3-diamidophospholipids with single-chain bolalipids. The mixed membranes were studied by calorimetric assays, electron microscopy, X-ray, and infrared measurements to provide a complete biophysical characterization of membrane stapling. The matching between the diamidophospholipids and the bolalipids can be so strong as to completely induce a new phase that is more stable than the gel phase of the individual components.

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

Changes in IR band areas and band shifts during water adsorption to lecithin and ceramide

Adsorption of water to a phospholipid (lecithin) and a ceramide were studied by IR microspectroscopy equipped with a humidity control system and quartz crystal microbalance (QCM). The water weight ratios increase up to 12.2 wt% for lecithin and 1.2 wt% for ceramide at RH ~80%, with linear correlations with infrared OH (+NH) band areas. For lecithin, the 1230 cm^-1 band (PO₂^-) and the 1735 cm^-1 band (CO) shift to lower wavenumbers, while the 1060 cm^-1 band (PO₂^-, POC) shift to higher wavenumber with RH. Band areas of phosphates (1230 and 1060 cm^-1) increase with RH showing positive relations with the band area of bound water. Bound water molecules with shorter H bonds might be bound to these phosphate groups. Band areas of aliphatic CHs are negatively correlated with the increasing adsorption of free water. Free water molecules with longer H bonds might interact loosely with aliphatic chains of lecithin. For ceramide, only the 1045 cm^-1 band (CO) shows a small red shift at higher RHs than 60%, indicating adsorption of bound water to CO bonds. Amounts of water molecules adsorbed to ceramide are very limited due to few adsorption of free water.

Dietary compounds as potential modulators of microRNA expression in psoriasis

Nutrigenomic DNA reprogramming in different chronic diseases and cancer has been assessed through the stimulation of gene expression and mRNA synthesis versus DNA silencing by CpG DNA modification (methylation); histone modification (acetylation, methylation) and expression of small noncoding RNAs, known as microRNAs (miRNAs). With regard to the specific nutrigenomic effects in psoriasis, the influence of specific diets on inflammatory cell signaling transcriptional factors such as nuclear factor (NF)-κB and Wnt signaling pathways, on disease-related specific cytokine expression, pro/antioxidant balance, keratinocyte proliferation/apoptosis and on proliferation/differentiation ratio have been documented; however, the influence of dietary compounds on the balance between 'good and bad' miRNA expression has not been considered. This review aims to summarize knowledge about aberrant microRNAs expression in psoriasis and to emphasize the potential impact of some dietary compounds on endogenous miRNA synthesis in experimental conditions in vivo and in vitro. Among the aberrantly expressed miRNAs in psoriasis, one of the most prominently upregulated seems to be miR-21. The beneficial effects of phenolic compounds (curcumin and resveratrol), vitamin D, methyl donors, and omega-3 fatty acids (eicosapentaenoic acid and docosahexaenoic acid) are discussed. Highly expressed miR-155 has been downregulated by flavonoids (through a quercetin-rich diet) and by vitamin D. Quercetin has been effective in modulating miR-146a. On the other hand, downregulated miR-125b expression was restored by vitamin D, Coenzyme Q10 and by microelement selenium. In conclusion, the miRNA profile, together with other 'omics', may constitute a multifaceted approach to explore the impact of diet on psoriasis prevention and treatment.

Effect of Ceramide Tail Length on the Structure of Model Stratum Corneum Lipid Bilayers

Lipid bilayers composed of non-hydroxy sphingosine ceramide (CER NS), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs), which are components of the human skin barrier, are studied via molecular dynamics simulations. Since mixtures of these lipids exist in dense gel phases with little molecular mobility at physiological conditions, care must be taken to ensure that the simulations become decorrelated from the initial conditions. Thus, we propose and validate an equilibration protocol based on simulated tempering, in which the simulation takes a random walk through temperature space, allowing the system to break out of metastable configurations and hence become decorrelated from its initial configuration. After validating the equilibration protocol, which we refer to as random-walk molecular dynamics, the effects of the lipid composition and ceramide tail length on bilayer properties are studied. Systems containing pure CER NS, CER NS + CHOL, and CER NS + CHOL + FFA, with the CER NS fatty acid tail length varied within each CER NS-CHOL-FFA composition, are simulated. The bilayer thickness is found to depend on the structure of the center of the bilayer, which arises as a result of the tail-length asymmetry between the lipids studied. The hydrogen bonding between the lipid headgroups and with water is found to change with the overall lipid composition, but is mostly independent of the CER fatty acid tail length. Subtle differences in the lateral packing of the lipid tails are also found as a function of CER tail length. Overall, these results provide insight into the experimentally observed trend of altered barrier properties in skin systems where there are more CERs with shorter tails present.

Probing the interactions among sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides with non- and alpha-hydroxylated acyl chains in skin lipid model membranes

Ceramides (Cers) are significant constituents of the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost skin layer responsible for skin barrier properties. Cers are a heterogeneous group of lipids whose mutual interactions are still unclear. To better understand these interactions, we characterized model membranes containing stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and one or more of the following ceramides: N-stearoyl-sphingosine (CerNS), N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerNP) and N-(2-hydroxy)stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerAP). Small angle X-ray scattering and FTIR spectroscopy were used to study lipid arrangement, phase separation and thermotropic behaviour. In the one-Cer systems, the membranes with CerNP showed strong hydrogen bonding and significant phase separation, even after phase transition, while the systems containing CerAP and CerNS had increased lipid miscibility. The multi-Cer systems exhibited different behaviour. In particular, the membrane containing all three Cers was a highly miscible system with narrow one-step phase transition, which, of all the studied samples, occurred at the lowest temperatures. Our results show that even a small variation in Cer structure results in substantially different phase behaviour, which is further affected by the presence of other Cer subclasses. Interestingly, the phase behaviour of the most complex three-Cer system was simpler than that of the others, highlighting the importance of lipid diversity in real SC.

Lysine-based amino-functionalized lipids for gene transfection: 3D phase behaviour and transfection performance

Based on previous work, the influence of the chain composition on the physical-chemical properties of five new transfection lipids (TH10, TT10, OH10, OT10 and OO10) containing the same lysine-based head group has been investigated in aqueous dispersions. For this purpose, the chain composition has been gradually varied from saturated tetradecyl (T, C14:0) and hexadecyl (H, C16:0) chains to longer but unsaturated oleyl (O, C18:1) chains with double bonds in the cis configuration. In this work, the lipid dispersions have been investigated in the absence and presence of the helper lipid DOPE and calf thymus DNA by small-angle and wide-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS/WAXS) supplemented by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), attenuated total reflection Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) and Fourier-transform Raman spectroscopy (FTRS). Lamellar and inverted hexagonal mesophases have been observed in single-component systems. In the binary mixtures, the aggregation behaviour changes with an increasing amount of DOPE from lamellar to cubic. The lipid mixtures with DNA show a panoply of mesophases. Interestingly, TT10 and OT10 form cubic lipoplexes, whereas OO10 complexes the DNA sandwich-like between lipid bilayers in a lamellar lipoplex. Surprisingly, the latter is the most effective lipoplex.

Self-assembled organogelators as artificial stratum corneum models: Key-role parameters for skin permeation prediction

Self-assembled organogelators were explored as artificial stratum corneum (SC) models for the in vitro skin permeation assessment. Four SC models consisting of binary (organogels) or ternary (microemulsion-based organogels) mixtures were developed using stearic acid, tristearin, or sorbitan tristearate, at two different concentrations, gelled in squalene. The permeation of lipophilic butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane and hydrophilic methylene blue as the permeant compounds across the SC models was compared with ex vivo experiments using excised porcine ear skin. A multi-analytical approach was adopted to provide detailed understanding about organogelator organization within the SC models and find possible parameters playing key-roles in SC permeation prediction. The SC models were investigated for gelling properties and microstructure. Parameters such as gel occurrence, organogelator concentration, and rheological properties appeared as negligible conditions for skin permeation prediction. Conversely, arrangement packing, interactions, and crystallinity extent of the self-assembled organogelator were found to play a fundamental role in the simulation of SC barrier function according to the permeant feature.

State of the art in Stratum Corneum research: The biophysical properties of ceramides

This review is summarizing an important part of the state of the art in stratum corneum research. A complete overview on discoveries about the general biophysical and physicochemical properties of the known ceramide species' is provided. The ceramides are one of the three major components of the lipid matrix and mainly govern its properties and structure. They are shown to exhibit very little redundancy, despite the minor differences in their chemical structure. The results are discussed, compared to each other as well as the current base of knowledge. New interesting aspects and concepts are concluded or suggested. A novel interpretation of the 3-dimensional structure of the lipid matrix and its influence on the barrier function will be discussed. The most important conclusion is the presentation of a new and up to date theoretical model of the nanostructure of the short periodicity phase. The model suggests three perpendicular layers: The rigid head group region, the rigid chain region and, a liquid-like overlapping middle layer. The general principle of the skin barrier function is highlighted in regard to this structure and the ceramides biophysical and physicochemical properties. As a result of these considerations, the entropy vs. enthalpy principle is introduced, shedding light on the function as well as the effectiveness of the skin barrier. Additionally, general ideas to effectively overcome this barrier principle for dermal and transdermal delivery of actives or how to use it for specific targeting of the stratum corneum are proposed.

Comparison of normal versus imiquimod-induced psoriatic skin in mice for penetration of drugs and nanoparticles

Background

As an immune-mediated skin disease, psoriasis encounters therapeutic challenges on topical drug development due to the unclear mechanism, and complicated morphological and physiological changes in the skin.

Methods

In this study, imiquimod-induced psoriatic mouse skin (IMQ-psoriatic skin) was chosen as the in vitro pathological model to explore the penetration behaviors of drugs and nanoparticles (NPs).

Results

Compared with normal skin, significantly higher penetration and skin accumulation were observed in IMQ-psoriatic skin for all the three model drugs. When poorly water-soluble curcumin was formulated as NPs that were subsequently loaded in gel, the drug’s penetration and accumulation in both normal and IMQ-psoriatic skins were significantly improved, in comparison with that of the curcumin suspension. Interestingly, the NPs’ size effect, in terms of their penetration and accumulation behaviors, was more pronounced for IMQ-psoriatic skin. Furthermore, by taking three sized FluoSpheres^® as model NPs, confocal laser scanning microscopy demonstrated that the penetration pathways of NPs no longer followed the hair follicles channels, instead they were more widely distributed in the IMQ-psoriatic skin.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the alternation of the IMQ-psoriatic skin structure will lead to the enhanced penetration of drug and NPs, and should be considered in topical drug formulation and further clinical practice for psoriasis therapy.

The long periodicity phase (LPP) controversy part I: The influence of a natural-like ratio of the CER[EOS] analogue [EOS]-br in a CER[NP]/[AP] based stratum corneum modelling system: A neutron diffraction study

This study used neutron diffraction to investigate a ceramide-[NP] C24/[AP] C24 /[EOS]-br C30/cholesterol/lignoceric acid (0.6: 0.3: 0.1: 0.7: 1) based stratum corneum modelling system. By adding specifically deuterated ceramides-[NP]-D₃, [AP]-D₃, and [EOS]-br-D₃, detailed information on the lamellar and the nanostructure of the system was obtained. For the short periodicity phase a natural-like lamellar repeat distance of 5.47 ± 0.02 nm was observed, similar to the [NP]/[AP] base system without the [EOS]-br. Unlike in this system the ceramides here were slightly tilted, hinting towards a slightly less natural arrangement. Due to the deuteration it was possible to observe that the long ceramide chains were overlapping in the lamellar mid-plane. This is considered to be an important feature for the natural stratum corneum. Despite the presence of a ceramide [EOS] analogue - able to form a long phase arrangement - no distinct long periodicity phase was formed, despite a slightly higher than natural ω-acyl ceramide ratio of 10 mol%. The deuterated variant of this ceramide determined that the very long ceramide was integrated into the short periodicity phase, spanning multiple layers instead. The - compared to the base system - unchanged repeat distance highlights the stability of this structure. Furthermore, the localisation of the very long ceramide in the short periodicity phase indicates the possibility of a crosslinking effect and thus a multilayer stabilizing role for the ceramide [EOS]. It can be concluded, that additionally to the mere presence of ceramide-[EOS] more complex conditions have to be met in order to form this long phase. This has to be further investigated in the future.

Impact of the ceramide subspecies on the nanostructure of stratum corneum lipids using neutron scattering and molecular dynamics simulations. Part I: impact of CER[NS]

For this study mixtures based on the ceramides [NS] (NS = non-hydroxy-sphingosine) and [AP] (AP = α-hydroxy-phytosphingosine) in a 2:1 and 1:2 ratio, together with cholesterol and lignoceric acid, were investigated. These mixtures are modelling the uppermost skin layer, the stratum corneum. Neutron diffraction, utilizing specifically deuterated ceramide molecules, was used to obtain a maximum amount of experimental detail. Highly detailed molecular dynamics simulations were used to generate even more information from the experimental data. It was possible to observe a single lamellar phase for both systems. They had a lamellar repeat distance of 5.43 ± 0.05 nm for the [NS]/[AP] 2:1 and a slightly shorter one of 5.34 ± 0.05 nm for the 1:2 system. The structure and water content was uninfluenced by excess humidity. Both the experimental and simulation data indicated slightly tilted ceramides, with their C24 chains overlapping in the lamellar mid-plane. This arrangement is well comparable to systems investigated before. The structure of both systems, except for the differing repeat distance, looks similar at first. However, on a smaller scale there were various distinct differences, demonstrating only low redundancy between the different ceramide species, despite only minor chemical differences. The mainly ceramide [AP] determined 1:2 system has a slightly smaller repeat distance. This is a result of a tighter arrangement of the lipids chain along the bilayer normal and increased overlapping of the long chains in the lamellar middle. For the CER[NS] some novel features could be shown, despite it being the overall most investigated ceramide. These include the low adaptability to changed lateral interactions, leading to an increased chain opening. This effect could explain its low miscibility with other lipids. The investigated model systems allows it to directly compare results from the literature which have used ceramide [NS] to the most recent studies using the phytosphingosine ceramides such as ceramide [AP].

The science behind skin care: Moisturizers

Moisturizers provide functional skin benefits, such as making the skin smooth and soft, increasing skin hydration, and improving skin optical characteristics; however, moisturizers also function as vehicles to deliver ingredients to the skin. These ingredients may be vitamins, botanical antioxidants, peptides, skin-lightening agents, botanical anti-inflammatories, or exfoliants. This discussion covers the science of moisturizers.

The promise of marine molecules as cosmetic active ingredients

The marine environment represents an underexploited resource for the discovery of novel products, despite its high level of biological and chemical diversity. With increasing awareness of the harmful effects of chronic ultraviolet exposure, and a universal desire to improve cosmetic appearance, the market for new cosmetic ingredients is growing, and current trends have generated a greater demand for products sourced from the environment. A growing number of novel molecules from marine flora and fauna exhibit potent and effective dermatological activities. Secondary metabolites isolated from macroalgae, including carotenoids and polyphenols, have demonstrated antioxidant, anti-ageing and anti-inflammatory activities. In addition, marine extremophilic bacteria have recently been shown to produce bioactive exopolymeric molecules, some of which have been commercialized. Available data on their activities show significant antioxidant, moisturizing and anti-ageing activities, but a more focussed investigation into their mechanisms and applications is required. This review surveys the reported biological activities of an emerging and growing portfolio of marine molecules that show promise in the treatment of cosmetic skin problems including ultraviolet damage, ageing and cutaneous dryness.

Determination of the influence of C24 D/(2R)- and L/(2S)-isomers of the CER[AP] on the lamellar structure of stratum corneum model systems using neutron diffraction

This study was able to investigate the different influence of the d- and l-ceramide [AP] on the lamellar as well as molecular nanostructure of stratum corneum simulating lipid model mixtures. In this case, neutron diffraction together with specifically deuterated ceramide was used as an effective tool to investigate the lamellar and the molecular nanostructure of the mixtures. It could clearly be demonstrated, that both isomers show distinctly different characteristics, even though the variation between both is only a single differently arranged OH-group. The l-ceramide [AP] promotes a crystalline like phase behaviour even if mixed with ceramide [NP], cholesterol and free fatty acids. The d-ceramide [AP] only shows crystalline-like features if mixed only with cholesterol and free fatty acids but adopts a native-like behaviour if additionally mixed with ceramide [NP]. It furthermore demonstrates that the l-ceramide [AP] should not be used for any applications concerning ceramide substitution. It could however possibly serve its own purpose, if this crystalline like behaviour has some kind of positive influence on the SC or can be utilized for any practical applications. The results obtained in this study demonstrate that the diastereomers of ceramide [AP] are an attractive target for further research because their influence on the lamellar as well as the nanostructure is exceptionally strong. Additionally, the results furthermore show a very strong influence on hydration of the model membrane. With these properties, the d-ceramide [AP] could be effectively used to simulate native like behaviour even in very simple mixtures and could also have a strong impact on the native stratum corneum as well as high relevance for dermal ceramide substitution. The unnatural l-ceramide [AP] on the other hand should be investigated further, to assess its applicability.

Stratum corneum modulation by chemical enhancers and lipid nanostructures: implications for transdermal drug delivery

Skin is the outermost and largest protective covering of the body. The uppermost layer of the skin, stratum corneum also called the horny layer is composed of keratin-filled cells covered by a lipid matrix which shields the skin from physical and chemical entrants. The lipid lamellar structure comprises of ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids and proteins. Chemical enhancers that mimic the lamellar chemistry, reversibly fluidize the latter can be utilized for enhancing transport of cargo across the epidermis into the dermis. This review deals with the stratum corneum chemistry, mechanisms to modulate its packing with the aid of chemical enhancers, biophysical techniques for characterization and applications in the design of nature-inspired biocompatible lipid nanostructures for transdermal delivery of drugs and bioactive agents.

Effects of 6-Hydroxyceramides on the Thermotropic Phase Behavior and Permeability of Model Skin Lipid Membranes

Ceramides (Cer) based on 6-hydroxysphingosine are important components of the human skin barrier, the stratum corneum. Although diminished concentrations of 6-hydroxyCer have been detected in skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, our knowledge on these unusual sphingolipids, which have only been found in the skin, is limited. In this work, we investigate the biophysical behavior of N-lignoceroyl-6-hydroxysphingosine (Cer NH) in multilamellar lipid membranes composed of Cer/free fatty acids (FFAs) (C16-C24)/cholesterol/cholesteryl sulfate. To probe the Cer structure-activity relationships, we compared Cer NH membranes with membranes containing Cer with sphingosine (Cer NS), dihydrosphingosine, and phytosphingosine (Cer NP), all with the same acyl chain length (C24). Compared with Cer NS, 6-hydroxylation of Cer not only increased membrane water loss and permeability in a lipophilic model compound but also dramatically increased the membrane opposition to electrical current, which is proportional to the flux of ions. Infrared spectroscopy revealed that Cer hydroxylation (in either Cer NH or Cer NP) increased the main transition temperature of the membrane but prevented good Cer mixing with FFAs. X-ray powder diffraction showed not only lamellar phases with shorter periodicity upon Cer hydroxylation but also the formation of an unusually long periodicity phase (d = 10.6 nm) in Cer NH-containing membranes. Thus, 6-hydroxyCer behaves differently from sphingosine- and phytosphingosine-based Cer. In particular, the ability to form a long-periodicity lamellar phase and highly limited permeability to ions indicate the manner in which 6-hydroxylated Cer contribute to the skin barrier function.

Phase separation in ceramide[NP] containing lipid model membranes: neutron diffraction and solid-state NMR

The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin and protects the organism against external influences as well as water loss. It consists of corneocytes embedded in a mixture of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol in a molar ratio of roughly 1 : 1 : 1. The unique structural and compositional arrangement of these stratum corneum lipids is responsible for the skin barrier properties. Many studies investigated the organization of these barrier lipids and, in particular, the exact conformation of ceramides. However, so far no consensus has been reached. In this study, we investigate a model system comprised of N-(non-hydroxy-tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine/cholesterol/tetracosanoic acid (CER[NP]-C24/CHOL/TA) at a 1 : 1 : 1 molar ratio using neutron diffraction and ²H solid-state NMR spectroscopy at temperatures from 25 °C to 80 °C. Deuterated variants of all three lipid components of the model system were used to enable their separate investigation in the NMR spectra and quantification of the amount of molecules in each phase. Neutron scattering experiments show the coexistence of two lipid phases at low temperatures with repeat spacings of 54.2 Å and 43.0 Å at a physiological skin temperature of 32 °C. They appear to be indistinguishable in the ²H NMR spectra as both phases are crystalline and ceramide molecules do not rotate around their long axis on a microsecond timescale. The evolution of these phases upon heating is followed and with increasing temperature fluid and even isotropically mobile molecules are observed. A model of the organization of the lamellar phases is proposed in which the thicker phase consists of CER[NP]-C24 in a hairpin conformation mixed with CHOL and TA, while the phase with a repeat spacing of 43.0 Å contains CER[NP]-C24 in a V-shape conformation.

Phytosphingosine, sphingosine and dihydrosphingosine ceramides in model skin lipid membranes: permeability and biophysics

Ceramides based on phytosphingosine, sphingosine and dihydrosphingosine are essential constituents of the skin lipid barrier that protects the body from excessive water loss. The roles of the individual ceramide subclasses in regulating skin permeability and the reasons for C4-hydroxylation of these sphingolipids are not completely understood. We investigated the chain length-dependent effects of dihydroceramides, sphingosine ceramides (with C4-unsaturation) and phytoceramides (with C4-hydroxyl) on the permeability, lipid organization and thermotropic behavior of model stratum corneum lipid membranes composed of ceramide/lignoceric acid/cholesterol/cholesteryl sulfate. Phytoceramides with very long C24 acyl chains increased the permeability of the model lipid membranes compared to dihydroceramides or sphingosine ceramides with the same chain lengths. Either unsaturation or C4-hydroxylation of dihydroceramides induced chain length-dependent increases in membrane permeability. Infrared spectroscopy showed that C4-hydroxylation of the sphingoid base decreased the relative ratio of orthorhombic chain packing in the membrane and lowered the miscibility of C24 phytoceramide with lignoceric acid. The phase separation in phytoceramide membranes was confirmed by X-ray diffraction. In contrast, phytoceramides formed strong hydrogen bonds and highly thermostable domains. Thus, the large heterogeneity in ceramide structures and in their aggregation mechanisms may confer resistance towards the heterogeneous external stressors that are constantly faced by the skin barrier.

A Coarse-Grained Model of Stratum Corneum Lipids: Free Fatty Acids and Ceramide NS

Ceramide (CER)-based biological membranes are used both experimentally and in simulations as simplified model systems of the skin barrier. Molecular dynamics studies have generally focused on simulating preassembled structures using atomistically detailed models of CERs, which limit the system sizes and time scales that can practically be probed, rendering them ineffective for studying particular phenomena, including self-assembly into bilayer and lamellar superstructures. Here, we report on the development of a coarse-grained (CG) model for CER NS, the most abundant CER in human stratum corneum. Multistate iterative Boltzmann inversion is used to derive the intermolecular pair potentials, resulting in a force field that is applicable over a range of state points and suitable for studying ceramide self-assembly. The chosen CG mapping, which includes explicit interaction sites for hydroxyl groups, captures the directional nature of hydrogen bonding and allows for accurate predictions of several key structural properties of CER NS bilayers. Simulated wetting experiments allow the hydrophobicity of CG beads to be accurately tuned to match atomistic wetting behavior, which affects the whole system, since inaccurate hydrophobic character is found to unphysically alter the lipid packing in hydrated lamellar states. We find that CER NS can self-assemble into multilamellar structures, enabling the study of lipid systems more representative of the multilamellar lipid structures present in the skin barrier. The coarse-grained force field derived herein represents an important step in using molecular dynamics to study the human skin barrier, which gives a resolution not available through experiment alone.

Complete structural characterization of ceramides as [M-H]- ions by multiple-stage linear ion trap mass spectrometry

Ceramide is a huge lipid family consisting of diversified structures including various modifications in the fatty acyl chain and the long chain base (LCB). In this contribution, negative-ion ESI linear ion-trap multiple-stage mass spectrometric method (LIT MSⁿ) towards complete structural determination of ceramides in ten major families characterized as the [M-H]^- ions is described. Multiple sets of fragment ions reflecting the fatty acyl chain and LCB were observed in the CID MS² spectrum, while the sequential MS³ and MS⁴ spectra contain structural information for locating the double bond and the functional groups, permitting realization of the fragmentation processes. Thereby, differentiation of ceramide molecules varied by chain length, the LCB (sphingosine, phytosphigosine, 6-hydroxy-sphingosine), and by the modification (α-hydroxy-, β-hydroxy-, ω-hydroxy-FA) can be achieved; and many isomeric structures in the biological specimen can be revealed in detail.

Free fatty acids chain length distribution affects the permeability of skin lipid model membranes

The lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC) plays an important role in the barrier function of the skin. The main lipid classes in this lipid matrix are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). The aim of this study was to determine whether a variation in CER subclass composition and chain length distribution of FFAs affect the permeability of this matrix. To examine this, we make use of lipid model membranes, referred to as stratum corneum substitute (SCS). We prepared SCS containing i) single CER subclass with either a single FFA or a mixture of FFAs and CHOL, or ii) a mixture of various CER subclasses with either a single FFA or a mixture of FFAs and CHOL. In vitro permeation studies were performed using ethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid (E-PABA) as a model drug. The flux of E-PABA across the SCS containing the mixture of FFAs was higher than that across the SCS containing a single FA with a chain length of 24 C atoms (FA C24), while the E-PABA flux was not effected by the CER composition. To select the underlying factors for the changes in permeability, the SCSs were examined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and Small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS). All lipid models demonstrated a similar phase behavior. However, when focusing on the conformational ordering of the individual FFA chains, the shorter chain FFA (with a chain length of 16, 18 or 20 C atoms forming only 11m/m% of the total FFA level) had a higher conformational disordering, while the conformational ordering of the chains of the CER and FA C24 and FA C22 hardly did not change irrespective of the composition of the SCS. In conclusion, the conformational mobility of the short chain FFAs present only at low levels in the model SC lipid membranes has a great impact on the permeability of E-PABA.

Preparation of a New Oligolamellar Stratum Corneum Lipid Model

In this study, we present a preparation method for a new stratum corneum (SC) model system, which is closer to natural SC than the commonly used multilayer models. The complex setup of the native SC lipid matrix was mimicked by a ternary lipid mixture of ceramide [AP], cholesterol, and stearic acid. A spin coating procedure was applied to realize oligo-layered samples. The influence of lipid concentration, rotation speed, polyethylenimine, methanol content, cholesterol fraction, and annealing on the molecular arrangement of the new SC model was investigated by X-ray reflectivity measurements. The new oligo-SC model is closer to native SC in the total number of lipid membranes found between corneocytes. The reduction in thickness provides the opportunity to study the effects of drugs and/or hydrophilic penetration enhancers on the structure of SC in full detail by X-ray or neutron reflectivity. In addition, the oligo-lamellar systems allows one to infer not only the lamellar spacing, but also the total thickness of the oligo-SC model and changes thereof can be monitored. This improvement is most helpful for the understanding of transdermal drug administration on the nanoscale. The results are compared to the commonly used multilamellar lipid model systems and advantages and disadvantages of both models are discussed.

Multiple Transcriptome Data Analysis Reveals Biologically Relevant Atopic Dermatitis Signature Genes and Pathways

Several studies have identified genes that are differentially expressed in atopic dermatitis (AD) compared to normal skin. However, there is also considerable variation in the list of differentially expressed genes (DEGs) reported by different groups and the exact cause of AD is still not fully understood. Using a rank-based approach, we analyzed gene expression data from five different microarray studies, comprising a total of 127 samples and more than 250,000 transcripts. A total of 89 AD gene expression signatures '89ADGES', including FLG gene, were identified to show dysregulation consistently across these studies. Using a Support Vector Machine, we showed that the '89ADGES' discriminates AD from normal skin with 98% predictive accuracy. Functional annotation of these genes implicated their roles in immune responses (e.g., betadefensin, microseminoprotein), keratinocyte differentiation/epidermal development (e.g., FLG, CORIN, AQP, LOR, KRT16), inflammation (e.g., IL37, IL27RA, CCL18) and lipid metabolism (e.g., AKR1B10, FAD7, FAR2). Subsequently, we validated a subset of signature genes using quantitative PCR in a mouse model. Using a bioinformatic approach, we identified keratinocyte pathway over-represented (P = <0.0006) among the 89 signature genes. Keratinocytes are known to play a major role in barrier function due to their location in the epidermis. Our result suggests that besides immune- mediated pathway, skin barrier pathways such as the keratinocyte differentiation pathway play a key role in AD pathogenesis. A better understanding of the role of keratinocytes in AD will be important for developing novel "barrier therapy" for this disease.