Efficacy and safety of innovative cosmeceuticals

Photoprotective activities of Capsosiphon fulvescens in UVB-induced SKH-1 mice and human keratinocytes

Capsosiphon fulvescens (CF) is a green alga widely consumed in East Asian countries, particularly in Korea. It has a rich composition of vitamins, minerals, dietary fibers, and bioactive compounds, which contribute to its multiple therapeutic properties. Its application ranges from acting as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent to supporting the skin system. Despite these benefits of CF, the effects and mechanisms of action related to photoaging of the skin have not yet been elucidated. To investigate the photoprotective effects of CF against photoaging, both animal (SKH-1 mouse) and cell models (HaCaT cell line) were used in this study. As a result, administering the CF extract over a period of 10 weeks, which included times of Ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure, significantly reduced erythema and various UVB-induced skin changes, such as wrinkle formation, and the thickening of the epidermis and dermis, as well as alterations in the length and depth of wrinkles. Furthermore, our investigation into CF extract's antiwrinkle properties revealed its efficacy in enhancing skin hydration and collagen content, counteracting the collagen depletion and moisture loss induced by UVB radiation. Also, the fact that the levels of p-ERK, p-p38, and p-JNK proteins went down shows that the CF extract might have a controlling effect on the MAPK signaling pathways. Our findings suggest that CF holds significant potential for preventing photoaging, providing a foundation for the development of functional foods or botanical drugs targeting skin aging and related skin disorders. PRACTICAL APPLICATION: This research proved that Capsosiphon fulvescen, a green alga widely consumed in East Asian countries, provides photoprotective activities against UV-induced skin aging. Therefore, Capsosiphon fulvescen can be utilized as functional foods or botanical drugs targeting skin aging and related skin disorders.

Phytochemistry, quality control and medicinal uses of Saffron (Crocus sativus L.): an updated review

Saffron, botanically known as Crocus sativus L., is renowned as the world's most expensive spice and has been utilized in various fields since ancient times. Extensive scientific research has been conducted on Crocus sativus (C. sativus), focusing on its phytochemical composition, diverse applications, and biological activities. C. sativus phytochemicals consist mainly of three compounds, namely crocin, picrocrocin, and safranal, which are responsible for most of its properties. Saffron is rich in bioactive compounds, more than 150 of which have been isolated. Owing to its unique composition and properties, saffron is used in various fields, such as the food industry, perfumery, cosmetics, pharmaceutics, and medicine. However, the high economic value of saffron makes it susceptible to adulteration and various fraudulent practices. To deal with this issue, a number of methods and techniques have been developed to authenticate and determine adulterants in saffron. This paper presents a bibliometric study of saffron based on the Web of Science database, analyzing 3,735 studies published between 2000 and 2021. The study also examined author participation and collaboration networks among countries. Production, transformation, chemical composition, methods of adulteration detection, uses, and health properties of saffron are also discussed.

Marine Algal Polyphenols as Skin Protective Agents: Current Status and Future Prospectives

The skin is the outermost anatomical barrier, which plays a vital role in the maintenance of internal homeostasis and protection against physical, chemical, and biological detractors. Direct contact with various stimuli leads to several physiological changes that are ultimately important for the growth of the cosmetic industry. Due to the consequences of using synthetic compounds in skincare and cosmeceutical-related industries, the pharmaceutical and scientific communities have recently shifted their focus to natural ingredients. The nutrient-rich value of algae, which are some of the most interesting organisms in marine ecosystems, has attracted attention. Secondary metabolites isolated from seaweeds are potential candidates for a wide range of economic applications, including food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics. An increasing number of studies have focused on polyphenol compounds owing to their promising biological activities against oxidation, inflammation, allergies, cancers, melanogenesis, aging, and wrinkles. This review summarizes the potential evidence of the beneficial properties and future perspectives of using marine macroalgae-derived polyphenolic compounds for advancing the cosmetic industry.

Determination of hydroquinone and benzoquinone in pharmaceutical formulations: critical considerations on quantitative analysis of easily oxidized compounds

Hydroquinone is a skin-lightening agent used as an active ingredient in topical dermatological formulations prescribed for treating cutaneous diseases caused by hyperpigmentation. Despite being widely used, some toxicological aspects have been associated with these products, mainly due to overdosage and long-term use combined with the easy oxidation of hydroquinone. In this work, an investigative study has been done to gather enough data for selecting a quantitative analytical method for quality control purposes that considers the ease of oxidation not only within the product but also during the experimental procedures. After studying the influence of pH, reversibility, sampling, and standard solution preparation on the redox reaction between hydroquinone and benzoquinone by using spectroscopic, electrophoretic, and electroanalytical measurements, a reliable, fast, and selective chronoamperometric method was achieved. The optimized method was used for the analysis of samples, previously diluted in Britton-Robinson (BR) buffer (pH 5.5) and methanol (1 : 9, v/v), by applying a potential fixed at 0.4 V. A glassy-carbon working electrode, lab-made Ag/AgCl_(sat) and platinum wire as a reference electrode and auxiliary electrodes, respectively, and BR buffer (pH 5.5) as supporting electrolyte were the additional experimental conditions used. Analytical performance parameters were verified to confirm the applicability of the new method (LOD 4.22 μmol L^-1 and LOQ 14.1 μmol L^-1; recovery mean value of 100% with 0.22% RSD). A gel topical formulation containing 4% (w/w) hydroquinone was analyzed through the developed method for determination of dosage and oxidation traces, and a content of 3.53 ± 0.095% (w/w) was found with no indications of degradation.

Progress, Opportunities, and Challenges of Magneto-Plasmonic Nanoparticles under Remote Magnetic and Light Stimulation for Brain-Tissue and Cellular Regeneration

Finding curable therapies for neurodegenerative disease (ND) is still a worldwide medical and clinical challenge. Recently, investigations have been made into the development of novel therapeutic techniques, and examples include the remote stimulation of nanocarriers to deliver neuroprotective drugs, genes, growth factors, and antibodies using a magnetic field and/or low-power lights. Among these potential nanocarriers, magneto-plasmonic nanoparticles possess obvious advantages, such as the functional restoration of ND models, due to their unique nanostructure and physiochemical properties. In this review, we provide an overview of the latest advances in magneto-plasmonic nanoparticles, and the associated therapeutic approaches to repair and restore brain tissues. We have reviewed their potential as smart nanocarriers, including their unique responsivity under remote magnetic and light stimulation for the controlled and sustained drug delivery for reversing neurodegenerations, as well as the utilization of brain organoids in studying the interaction between NPs and neuronal tissue. This review aims to provide a comprehensive summary of the current progress, opportunities, and challenges of using these smart nanocarriers for programmable therapeutics to treat ND, and predict the mechanism and future directions.

Review on the Use of Kojic Acid—A Skin-Lightening Ingredient

This article reviews the use of Kojic Acid (KA) as a skin-lightening ingredient in the cosmetics industry. In 1907, Saito discovered KA, a natural product; it has since become one of the most investigated skin-lightening agents. This paper highlights the findings of the research conducted on this agent. It has been found that KA has certain disadvantages, and researchers have attempted to mitigate these disadvantages by designing new equivalents of KA that are more efficient in tyrosinase inhibition. These equivalents are also safe to use and have improved properties and solubility. The Cosmeceutical Ingredient Review (CIR) indicates that this ingredient can be safely used at a concentration not higher than 1% due to its cytotoxicity. Other scientific data also support its safety at a concentration of 2% or less. It was shown to be helpful in the treatment of hyper pigmentary disorders, such as freckles, age spots, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and melasma, which has been proven clinically.

Nanocarriers as Active Ingredients Enhancers in the Cosmetic Industry-The European and North America Regulation Challenges

“Flawless skin is the most universally desired human feature” is an iconic statement by Desmond Morris. Skin indicates one´s health and is so important that it affects a person’s emotional and psychological behavior, these facts having propelled the development of the cosmetics industry. It is estimated that in 2023, this industry will achieve more than 800 billion dollars. This boost is due to the development of new cosmetic formulations based on nanotechnology. Nanocarriers have been able to solve problems related to active ingredients regarding their solubility, poor stability, and release. Even though nanocarriers have evident benefits, they also present some problems related to the high cost, low shelf life, and toxicity. Regulation and legislation are two controversial topics regarding the use of nanotechnology in the field of cosmetics. In this area, the U.S. FDA has taken the lead and recommended several biosafety studies and post-market safety evaluations. The lack of a global definition that identifies nanomaterials as a cosmetic ingredient is a hindrance to the development of global legislation. In the EU, the legislation regarding the biosafety of nanomaterials in cosmetics is stricter. “The cost is not the only important issue, safety and the application of alternative testing methods for toxicity are of crucial importance as well”.

Multiple Bioactivities of Manihot esculenta Leaves: UV Filter, Anti-Oxidation, Anti-Melanogenesis, Collagen Synthesis Enhancement, and Anti-Adipogenesis

The cassava root is an important global agro-industrial crop that yields cassava leaf as a left-over co-product of interest for further development as a sustainable resource of health and cosmeceutical active compounds. This work aimed to investigate the cosmeceutical potential and chemical composition of an ethanolic cassava leaf extract (BM). rutin, apigenin, and kaempferol were found to be major constituents via HPLC-DAD UV analysis. Interestingly, the multiple beneficial bioactivities of BM for cosmeceutical applications were manifested in a dose-dependent manner, including anti-oxidation in a 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl assay, anti-melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells, collagen synthesis enhancement in human fibroblasts, and anti-adipogenesis in 3T3-L1 adipocytes. Furthermore, the potential of the collagen synthesis enhancement of BM and rutin was significant when compared to ascorbic acid. Additionally, a UV filter property comparable to BEMT with characteristics of board spectral absorption and constant high absorptivity throughout all UV wavelength ranges was exhibited by UV-visible spectrophotometric analysis. In conclusion, the cassava leaf was found to be a potential natural cosmeceutical active agent with multiple cosmeceutical-related bioactivities with respect to a substantial composition of bioactive flavonols. These obtained data will support and encourage the further study and development of cassava leaves as potential economic and sustainable sources of bioactive agents for health and cosmeceutical applications.

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients

The interest in plant extracts and natural compounds in cosmetic formulations is growing. Natural products may significantly improve cosmetics performance since they have both cosmetic and therapeutic-like properties, known as cosmeceutical effects. Glycyrrhiza genus, belonging to the Leguminosae family, comprises more than 30 species, widely distributed worldwide. The rhizomes and roots are the most important medicinal parts currently used in pharmaceutical industries and in the production of functional foods and food supplements. In the last few years, the interest in their potential activities in cosmetic formulations has greatly increased. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are widely implemented in cosmetic products for their good whitening effect. The biological effects of Glycyrrhiza extracts are especially ascribable to the occurrence of specialized metabolites belonging to the flavonoid class. This review focuses on the botany and the chemistry of the main investigated Glycyrrhiza spp. (G. glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) along with their cosmeceutical activities categorized as skin anti-aging, photoprotective, hair care, and anti-acne. It has been highlighted how, along with Glycyrrhiza extracts, three main flavonoids namely licochalcone A, glabridin, and dehydroglyasperin C are the most investigated compounds. It is noteworthy that other molecules from licorice show potential cosmeceutical effects. These data suggest further investigations to clarify their potential value for cosmetic industries.

Innovative Extraction Technologies for Development of Functional Ingredients Based on Polyphenols from Olive Leaves

Olive tree (Olea europea L.) leaves represent around 10% of the total weight of olives arriving at any given mill, which are generally discarded, causing economic and environmental issues. However, these are rich sources of natural bioactive compounds (i.e., polyphenols), which have health-promoting potential. Thus, the valorization of olive leaves by recovering and reusing their components should be a must for food sustainability and circular economy. This review provides an insight into the principal polyphenols present in olive leaves, together with agronomic variables influencing their content. It also summarizes the recent advances in the application of novel extraction technologies that have shown promising extraction efficacy, reducing the volume of extraction solvent and saving time and cost. Moreover, potential industrial uses and international patents filed in the pharmaceutic, food, and cosmetic sectors are discussed.

Flavonoids Present in Propolis in the Battle against Photoaging and Psoriasis

The skin is the main external organ. It protects against different types of potentially harmful agents, such as pathogens, or physical factors, such as radiation. Skin disorders are very diverse, and some of them lack adequate and accessible treatment. The photoaging of the skin is a problem of great relevance since it is related to the development of cancer, while psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory disease that causes scaly skin lesions and deterioration of the lifestyle of people affected. These diseases affect the patient's health and quality of life, so alternatives have been sought that improve the treatment for these diseases. This review focuses on describing the properties and benefits of flavonoids from propolis against these diseases. The information collected shows that the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of flavonoids play a crucial role in the control and regulation of the cellular and biochemical alterations caused by these diseases; moreover, flavones, flavonols, flavanones, flavan-3-ols, and isoflavones contained in different worldwide propolis samples are the types of flavonoids usually evaluated in both diseases. Therefore, the research carried out in the area of dermatology with bioactive compounds of different origins is of great relevance to developing preventive and therapeutic approaches.

Seaweed-Based Molecules and Their Potential Biological Activities: An Eco-Sustainable Cosmetics

Amongst the countless marine organisms, seaweeds are considered as one of the richest sources of biologically active ingredients having powerful biological activities. Seaweeds or marine macroalgae are macroscopic multicellular eukaryotic photosynthetic organisms and have the potential to produce a large number of valuable compounds, such as proteins, carbohydrates, fatty acids, amino acids, phenolic compounds, pigments, etc. Since it is a prominent source of bioactive constituents, it finds diversified industrial applications viz food and dairy, pharmaceuticals, medicinal, cosmeceutical, nutraceutical, etc. Moreover, seaweed-based cosmetic products are risen up in their demands by the consumers, as they see them as a promising alternative to synthetic cosmetics. Normally it contains purified biologically active compounds or extracts with several compounds. Several seaweed ingredients that are useful in cosmeceuticals are known to be effective alternatives with significant benefits. Many seaweeds' species demonstrated skin beneficial activities, such as antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, antiaging, photoprotection, anti-wrinkle, moisturizer, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticancer and antioxidant properties, as well as certain antimicrobial activities, such as antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral activities. This review presents applications of bioactive molecules derived from marine algae as a potential substitute for its current applications in the cosmetic industry. The biological activities of carbohydrates, proteins, phenolic compounds and pigments are discussed as safe sources of ingredients for the consumer and cosmetic industry.

From Cosmetics to Innovative Cosmeceuticals—Non-Woven Tissues as New Biodegradable Carriers

Due to pollution and climate-change fear, further increased by the COVID19 pandemic, consumers are looking for body and mind health by the request of more effective and safe products, including the anti-aging skincare cosmeceuticals.. The term “cosmeceuticals” was coined in 1962 as a fusion of cosmetic and pharmaceutical to cover a new class of products able to achieve aesthetic and drug-like benefits. They not only improve the skin’s appearance, but also treat different dermatological conditions, through a physiological activity, shown by in vitro and in vivo studies. This new category of cosmetics should contain no recognized drugs, but nonetheless have medicinal value. Consumers, in fact, are looking for products able to regenerate the skin and maintain not only a youthful appearance together with well-ness and well-being, but preserving the environment also. Consequently, they are searching for cosmetics and food made with high-quality natural ingredients, packaged with biodegradable materials and realized by sustainable technologies, possibly at zero waste. Consumers, in fact, are afraid of the pollution and plastics invading lands and oceans, causing many frequent disasters on our planet. New and smart tissues and films, made by polysaccharides and natural active ingredients, are proposed as innovative cosmeceuticals. These non-woven tissues, embedded by micro/nano complexes of chitin and lignin encapsulating different active ingredients, could represent a new category of vehicles that are characterized for their high effectiveness and safeness. Moreover, they do not induce allergic nor sensitizing phenomena, being biodegradable; skin- and environmentally friendly; and free of preservatives, emulsifiers, colors, fragrances and any kind of chemicals. Last but not least, polysaccharides, chitin and lignin may be obtained from industrial and agro-forestry waste, safeguarding the natural raw materials for the future generations.

Sustainable Sources from Aquatic Organisms for Cosmeceuticals Ingredients

Long life expectancy of populations in the developing world together with some cultural and social issues has driven the need to pay special attention to health and physical appearance. Cosmeceuticals are gaining interest in the cosmetic industry as their uses fulfills a double purpose: the requirements of a cosmetic (clean, perfume, protect, change the appearance of the external parts of the body or keeping them in good condition) with a particular bioactivity function. The cosmetics industry, producing both cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, is currently facing numerous challenges to satisfy different attitudes of consumers (vegetarianism, veganism, cultural or religious concerns, health or safety reasons, eco-friendly process, etc.). A currently growing trend in the market is the interest in products of low environmental impact. Marine origin ingredients are increasingly being incorporated into cosmeceutical preparations because they are able to address several consumer requirements and also due to the wide range of bioactivities they present (antioxidant, whitening, anti-aging, etc.). Many companies claim “Marine” as a distinctive marketing signal; however, only a few indicate whether they use sustainable ingredient sources. Sustainable marine ingredients might be obtained using wild marine biomass through a sustainable extractive fishing activity; by adopting valorization strategies including the use of fish discards and fish by-products; and by sustainably farming and culturing marine organisms.

Carbon dots prepared from citric acid and urea by microwave-assisted irradiation as a turn-on fluorescent probe for allantoin determination

Carbon dots from citric acid and urea as a fluorescent probe for sensitive and selective detection of allantoin.

F, Truong HB. Polyhydroxynaphthoquinone Pigment From Vietnam Sea Urchins as a Potential Bioactive Ingredient in Cosmeceuticals

In this study, valuable polyhydroxynaphthoquinone (PHNQ) pigments were recovered from sea urchin food waste and were investigated as a potential bioactive ingredient for cosmeceuticals. The crude PHNQ pigment extract from 4 Vietnam sea urchins, Diadema setosum, Diadema savignyi, Stomopneustes variolaris, and Tripneustes gratilla, exhibited effective 2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl-hydrate scavenging activity, tyrosinase inhibitory activity, and antibacterial activity. The moisturizing cream with 0.5% of PHNQ pigments from D. setosum and Tripneustes gratilla sea urchins showed no dermal irritation over 14 days of mouse skin test. Four major active components in PHNQ were identified via high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detector and mass spectrometry. Echinochrome A contributed considerably to the antioxidant activity of the extracts while those containing echinochrome A and spinochrome E were significantly active against various bacteria. The promising results laid the foundation for establishing a novel process from food waste to innovative biomaterial and formulating eco-friendly skincare products with PHNQ components from sea urchins as precious ingredient.

Potential Use of Seaweed Bioactive Compounds in Skincare-A Review

Modern lifestyles have developed new attention on appearance and personal care which attract a huge number of consumers towards cosmetic products. The demand for a skincare product with natural ingredients is rapidly increasing. Seaweeds are major resources for in-demand active compounds with a wide variety of applications. The use of seaweed-derived ingredients in cosmetic products has increased in recent years as many scientific studies have proved the potential skincare properties of seaweed bioactive compounds. This review emphasizes possible skincare properties of seaweed bioactive compounds. The review outlines the mechanism involved in skin problems including hyperpigmentation, premature skin aging, and acne in the first part while the second part focuses on the promising application of seaweeds in skin protection by highlighting the bioactive compound responsible for their bioactivity.

Traditional and Modern Uses of Saffron (Crocus Sativus)

The Aromatic and Medicinal Plants sector has undergone a remarkable evolution, especially during the last decade. The global market is moving more and more towards products of natural origin. Indeed, of the 4200-existing plant in Morocco, 800 are listed as aromatic and medicinal plants. Among these plants, saffron is a source of income for many areas of Morocco. Saffron, the dried stigma of the Crocus sativus flower, is considered among the main terroir products of Morocco. Saffron has accompanied all civilizations, whether for its culinary role, for its quality of dye or its ancestral virtues rooted in folk medicine. This review highlights the main components of saffron, and the pharmacological activities that result from it and make this product a serious therapeutic hope. Then, a classification of uses of saffron was carried out according to its uses, traditional, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and perfumery without forgetting its use a spice incorporated in many dishes around the world.

Clinical evaluation of the safety and efficacy of a timosaponin A-III-based antiwrinkle agent against skin aging

BACKGROUND

Timosaponin A-III (TA-III) is known to exist in the medicinal herb of Anemarrhena asphodeloides as one of major chemical components.

AIMS

The photoprotective properties of TA-III on UVB-exposed HaCaT cells were evaluated on the antiwrinkle effects and skin safety in terms of clinical trial.

METHODS

The level of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases (TIMPs), and pro-inflammatory cytokines were measured in HaCaT cells following UVB irradiation. To evaluate the clinical safety of an agent containing 0.25% of TA-III for use on human skin. Female subjects (n = 21) between the ages of 43 and 55 who met the criteria for subject selection were selected. They were beginning to form or had already formed wrinkles.

RESULTS

UVB irradiation increased MMP-1 expression and pro-inflammatory cytokines. These increases were attenuated by TA-III pretreatment of UVB-exposed HaCaT cells. We found that the agent containing 0.25% of TA-III ameliorated skin wrinkling. A comparison between groups showed that wrinkle parameters were significantly reduced after 12 weeks of product use (P < 0.05). According to skin safety result, TA-III showed no dermatological toxicity was found in participants.

CONCLUSIONS

In conclusion, TA-III could provide protection against photoaging and daily application of TA-III for 12 weeks significantly reduced signs of facial aging by limiting wrinkle formation.

Discovery of new depigmenting compounds and their efficacy to treat hyperpigmentation: Evidence from in vitro study

Human skin pigmentation is a result of constitutive and facultative pigmentation. Facultative pigmentation is frequently stimulated by UV radiation, pharmacologic drugs, and hormones whereby leads to the development of abnormal skin hyperpigmentation. To date, many state-of-art depigmenting compounds have been studied using in vitro model to treat hyperpigmentation problems for cosmetic dermatological applications; little attention has been made to compare the effectiveness of these depigmenting compounds and their mode of actions. In this present article, new and recent depigmenting compounds, their melanogenic pathway targets, and modes of action are reviewed. This article compares the effectiveness of these new depigmenting compounds to modulate several melanogenesis-regulatory enzymes and proteins such as tyrosinase (TYR), TYR-related protein-1 (TRP1), TYR-related protein-2 (TRP2), microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and N-terminal kinases (JNK) and mitogen-activated protein kinase p38 (p38 MAPK). Other evidences from in vitro assays such as inhibition on melanosomal transfer, proteasomes, nitric oxide, and inflammation-induced melanogenesis are also highlighted. This article also reviews analytical techniques in different assays performed using in vitro model as well as their advantages and limitations. This article also provides an insight on recent finding and re-examination of some protocols as well as their effectiveness and reliability in the evaluation of depigmenting compounds. Evidence and support from related patents are also incorporated in this present article to give an overview on current patented technology, latest trends, and intellectual values of some depigmenting compounds and protocols, which are rarely highlighted in the literatures.

The study of inhibitory effects and mechanism of carboxylate chitooligomer on melanin, prepared by laccase/TEMPO system

A carboxylate chitooligomer (C-COS) containing carboxyl groups attached to chitooligomer (COS) molecules has been prepared by laccase/2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidine-1-oxyl (TEMPO) system, which is a green-chemistry method. Several experiments were designed to evaluate inhibition effects on melanin and mechanisms of C-COS. The results indicated that C-COS exhibited more distinct anti-melanogenic effects compared to COS. C-COS inhibits melanin production with tyrosine (Tyr) and DOPA as the substrate of melanin formation, and the inhibition rates are, respectively, 89.07% and 84.45%, which reach 1.4-2 times those of COS. UV-vis spectroscopy was used to elucidate the interaction mechanism between C-COS and tyrosinase (TYR). It is C-COS chelating with metal Cu ions in tyrosinase (TYR) that decreases the enzyme activity. Half-maximal inhibitory concentrations (IC₅₀) of C-COS were calculated as 13.49 and 4.07 mg/mL for monophenolase (cresolase) and diphenolase (catecholase), respectively.

Sargaquinoic acid ameliorates hyperpigmentation through cAMP and ERK-mediated downregulation of MITF in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells

Hyperpigmentation disorders of the skin adversely influence the quality of life. We previously demonstrated the hypopigmenting properties of the ethanolic extract from Sargassum serratifolium and identified sargaquinoic acid (SQA) as an active component. The current study aims to investigate the hypopigmenting action of SQA in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16F10 cells. SQA attenuated cellular melanin synthesis by inhibiting the expression of the melanogenic enzymes, including tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1), and TRP2. SQA also inhibited cellular TYR activity in a dose-dependent manner. Reduced intracellular cAMP accumulation by SQA treatment resulted in the suppressed phosphorylation of cAMP-responsive element-binding protein (CREB), leading to the downregulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. SQA increased the phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK)1/2 and MITF (Ser73), inducing proteasomal degradation of MITF. SQA showed high binding affinity to the cAMP binding domain of PKA; the direct binding of SQA to PKA may exert an additional inhibitory effect on the PKA-dependent CREB activation. Our data demonstrated that SQA suppressed melanin production through the cAMP/CREB- and ERK1/2-mediated downregulation of MITF in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells and SQA has a potential therapeutic agent for the treatment of skin hyperpigmentation disorders.

Olive tree (Olea europaea L.) leaf as a waste by-product of table olive and olive oil industry: a review

Research into finding new uses for by-products of table olive and olive oil industry are of great value not only to the economy but also to the environment where olives are grown and to the human health. Since leaves represent around 10% of the total weight of olives arriving at the mill, it is worth obtaining high added-value compounds from those materials for the preparation of dietary supplements, nutraceuticals, functional food ingredients or cosmeceuticals. In this review article, olive tree (Olea europaea L.) leaf is reviewed as being a potential inexpensive, renewable and abundant source of biophenols. The importance of this agricultural and industrial waste is emphasised by means of describing its availability, nutritional and therapeutic effects and studies conducted on this field. © 2017 Society of Chemical Industry.

Cosmetics and Cosmeceutical Applications of Chitin, Chitosan and Their Derivatives

Marine resources are well recognized for their biologically active substances with great potential applications in the cosmeceutical industry. Among the different compounds with a marine origin, chitin and its deacetylated derivative—chitosan—are of great interest to the cosmeceutical industry due to their unique biological and technological properties. In this review, we explore the different functional roles of chitosan as a skin care and hair care ingredient, as an oral hygiene agent and as a carrier for active compounds, among others. The importance of the physico-chemical properties of the polymer in its use in cosmetics are particularly highlighted. Moreover, we analyse the market perspectives of this polymer and the presence in the market of chitosan-based products.

Hypopigmenting Effects of Brown Algae-Derived Phytochemicals: A Review on Molecular Mechanisms

There is a rapid increase in the demand for natural hypopigmenting agents from marine sources for cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical applications. Currently, marine macroalgae are considered as a safe and effective source of diverse bioactive compounds. Many research groups are exploring marine macroalgae to discover and characterize novel compounds for cosmeceutical, nutraceutical, and pharmaceutical applications. Many types of bioactive secondary metabolites from marine algae, including phlorotannins, sulfated polysaccharides, carotenoids, and meroterpenoids, have already been documented for their potential applications in the pharmaceutical industry. Among these metabolites, phlorotannins from brown algae have been widely screened for their pharmaceutical and hypopigmenting effects. Unfortunately, the majority of these articles did not have detailed investigations on molecular targets, which is critical to fulfilling the criteria for their cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical use. Very recently, a few meroterpenoids have been discovered from Sargassum sp., with the examination of their anti-melanogenic properties and mechanisms. Despite the scarcity of in vivo and clinical investigations of molecular mechanistic events of marine algae-derived hypopigmenting agents, identifying the therapeutic targets and their validation in humans has been a major challenge for future studies. In this review, we focused on available data representing molecular mechanisms underlying hypopigmenting properties of potential marine brown alga-derived compounds.

Botanicals With Dermatologic Properties Derived From First Nations Healing: Part 2-Plants and Algae

INTRODUCTION

Plants and algae have played a central role in the treatment of skin conditions in both traditional First Nations healing and in modern dermatology. The objective of this study was to examine the evidence supporting the dermatological use of seaweed, witch hazel, bearberry, and mayapple.

METHODS

Four plants and algae used in traditional First Nations treatments of skin disease were selected based on expert recommendations. Several databases were searched to identify relevant citations without language restrictions.

RESULTS

Seaweed has potential clinical use in the treatment of acne and wrinkles and may be incorporated into biofunctional textiles. Witch hazel is an effective and well-tolerated treatment of inflammation and diaper dermatitis. Bearberry leaves contain arbutin, a skin-lightening agent that is an alternative for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Mayapple contains podophyllotoxin, a treatment for condyloma accuminata, molluscum contagiosum, and recalcitrant palmoplantar warts.

DISCUSSION

Common plants and algae are replete with bioactive agents that may have beneficial effects on the skin. Further research will open the door to new and innovative products in the future. Limitations of this study include that the scope of our study is limited to 4 plants and algae, a small sample of the breadth of plants used by First Nations for dermatological treatments.

Partial-thickness burn wounds healing by topical treatment: A randomized controlled comparison between silver sulfadiazine and centiderm

BACKGROUND

Burns are common event and associated with a high incidence of death, disability, and high costs. Centella asiatica (L.) is a medicinal herb, commonly growing in humid areas in several tropical countries that improve wound healing. On the basis of previous studies, we compared the efficacy of Centiderm versus silver sulfadiazine (SSD) in partial thickness burning patients.

METHODS

Study population comprised burn victims referred to Velayat Burning Hospital at Rasht, Iran. The intervention group received Centiderm and control group SSD cream. Burn wounds were treated once daily at home. All of the wounds were evaluated till complete healing occurred and at the admission, days 3, 7, 14 objective signs; visual acuity score (VAS) and subjective signs were recorded. Re-epithelialization time and complete healing days were recorded. We used random fixed block for randomization. The randomization sequence was created using the computer. Patients and burning specialist physician were blinded.

RESULTS

Seventy-five patients randomized into 2 groups; (40 patients: Centiderm group; 35 patients: SSD group). The mean age of them was 30.67 ± 9.91 years and 19 of them were male (31.7%). Thirty patients in Centiderm and 30 patients in SSD group were analyzed. All of objective and subjective signs and mean of re-epithelialization and complete healing were significantly better in Centiderm group rather than SSD group (P < 0.05). There was no infection in Centiderm group.

CONCLUSIONS

We showed that use of Centiderm ointment not only improved the objective and subjective signs in less than 3 days, but also the re-epithelialization and complete healing rather than SSD without any infection in the subjects.

Protective effects of tetrahydrocurcumin (THC) on fibroblast and melanoma cell lines in vitro: it's implication for wound healing

The aim of this study was to investigate the role of tetrahydrocurcumin (THC) against various skin health parameters using in vitro human foreskin fibroblast and melanoma cell lines (i.e. HFF-1 and B16-F10). The study was assessed using cell viability by MTT assay, identification of extracellular matrix component in HFF-1 cell line (i.e. collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid), melanin synthesis in B16-F10 cells, cell viability against UVB-induced stress in HFF-1 cells, and in vitro wound healing by the scratch assay. THC was found to be safe and nontoxic up to the concentration of 10 µg/mL with improved level of collagen (37.90%), elastin (90.1%), and hyaluronic acid (74.19%) at 1 µg/mL. Besides, melanin was significantly inhibition by 78.5% at the lowest THC concentration of 0.1 µg/mL. UVB-protection rate was significantly improved by 61.2% and improved cell viability by THC in HFF-1 cells, which indicated protection from photoaging. In addition, THC showed significant wound healing activity (78.51%) and greater migration of fibroblast in HFF-1 cells at different time period. It can be concluded from the study that THC can protect the skin matrix with improved extracellular component synthesis and would healing via collagen synthesis in the skin, which improved the skin elasticity and tightness. Overall, it might be suggested that THC can be used as a safe skin whitening agent, wounds management, cosmetic applications, and treating various skin-related disorders.

Synthesis and characterization of green tea (Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze) extract and its major components-based nanoflowers: a new strategy to enhance antimicrobial activity

In this study, for the first time, a novel organic–inorganic nanobio-antimicrobial agent called “nanoflowers” (Nfs) from Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze extracts and its main components were produced and the increase in the antimicrobial activity of Nfs was elucidated.

Bioactive properties and potentials cosmeceutical applications of phlorotannins isolated from brown seaweeds: A review

Currently, natural ingredients are becoming more attractive for the industries such as functional food, nutraceuticals, cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical industries as people starting to believe naturally occurring compounds are safer to humans than artificial compounds. Seaweeds are one of the most interesting organisms found in oceans around the earth, which are carrying great ecological importance and contribute to increase the biodiversity of ecosystems where they were originated and habitat. Within last few decades, discovery of secondary metabolites with biological activities from seaweeds has been significantly increased. Further, the unique secondary metabolites isolated from seaweeds including polysaccharides, carotenoids and polyphenols possess range of bioactive properties that make them potential ingredient for many industrial applications. Among those groups of compounds phlorotannins isolated from brown seaweeds have shown interesting bioactive properties including anti-cancer, anti-inflammation, anti-oxidant, anti-allergic, anti-wrinkling and hair growth promotion properties. Moreover, these properties associated with phlorotannins make them an ideal compounds to use as a functional ingredient in cosmeceutical products. Up to now no report has been reviewed about discuss properties of phlorotannins related to the cosmeceutical application. In the present review primary attention is given to the collect scientific data published about bioactive properties of brown algal phlorotannins related to the cosmeceutical industry.

Free-Radical-Scavenging, Antityrosinase, and Cellular Melanogenesis Inhibitory Activities of Synthetic Isoflavones

In this study, we examined the potential of synthetic isoflavones for application in cosmeceuticals. Twenty-five isoflavones were synthesized and their capacities of free-radical-scavenging and mushroom tyrosinase inhibition, as well as their impact on cell viability of B16F10 murine melanoma cells and HaCaT human keratinocytes were evaluated. Isoflavones that showed significant mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activities were further studied on reduction of cellular melanin formation and antityrosinase activities in B16F10 melanocytes in vitro. Among the isoflavones tested, 6-hydroxydaidzein (2) was the strongest scavenger of both ABTS(.+) and DPPH(.) radicals with SC50 values of 11.3 ± 0.3 and 9.4 ± 0.1 μM, respectively. Texasin (20) exhibited the most potent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase (IC50 14.9 ± 4.5 μM), whereas retusin (17) showed the most efficient inhibition both of cellular melanin formation and antityrosinase activity in B16F10 melanocytes, respectively. In summary, both retusin (17) and texasin (20) exhibited potent free-radical-scavenging capacities as well as efficient inhibition of cellular melanogenesis, suggesting that they are valuable hit compounds with potential for advanced cosmeceutical development.

Simultaneous determination of water-soluble whitening ingredients and adenosine in different cosmetic formulations by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with photodiode array detection

OBJECTIVE

The Korean Cosmetic Act regulates the use of functional cosmetics) by the law. Four functional cosmetic groups, whitening, anti-wrinkle, UV protection and combination of whitening and anti-wrinkle, were categorized according to the Korean Cosmetic Act and Functional Cosmetics Codex. In this study, high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) coupled with photodiode array detection (DAD) was employed for the simultaneous detection of arbutin (and its decomposition product, hydroquinone), niacinamide, ascorbyl glucoside, ethyl ascorbyl ether and adenosine in functional cosmetic products such as creams, emulsions and lotions.

METHODS

Separation by HPLC-DAD was conducted using a C18 column with a gradient elution of 5 mm KH2PO4 buffer (containing 0.1% phosphoric acid) and methanol (containing 0.1% phosphoric acid). The wavelengths for the detection of arbutin, hydroquinone, niacinamide, adenosine, ascorbyl glucoside and ethyl ascorbyl ether were 283, 289, 261, 257, 238 and 245 nm, respectively.

RESULTS

This method exhibited good linearity (R(2) ≥ 0.999), precision (expressed as relative standard deviation (RSD) < 2%) and mean recoveries (89.42-104.89%). The results obtained by monitoring 100 market samples showed that the detected levels of the tested materials are within the acceptable authorized concentration.

CONCLUSION

The method developed herein is simple and can be used for market survey and quality control of functional cosmetics.

Anti-Aging Potential of Phytoextract Loaded-Pharmaceutical Creams for Human Skin Cell Longetivity

The exposure to ultraviolet radiations (UVR) is the key source of skin sunburn; it may produce harmful entities, reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to aging. The skin can be treated and protected from the injurious effects of ROS by using various pharmaceutical formulations, such as cream. Cream can be loaded with antioxidants to quench ROS leading to photo-protective effects. Moreover, modern medicines depend on ethnobotanicals for protection or treatment of human diseases. This review article summarizes various in vivo antioxidant studies on herbal creams loaded with phyto-extracts. These formulations may serve as cosmeceuticals to protect skin against injurious effects of UVR. The botanicals studied for dermatologic use in cream form include Acacia nilotica, Benincasa hispida, Calendula officinalis, Camellia sinensis, Camellia sinensis, Nelumbo nucifera, Capparis decidua, Castanea sativa, Coffea arabica, Crocus sativus, Emblica officinalis Gaertn, Foeniculum vulgare, Hippophae rhamnoides, Lithospermum erythrorhizon, Malus domestica, Matricaria chamomilla L., Moringa oleifera, Morus alba, Ocimum basilicum, Oryza sativa, Polygonum minus, Punica granatum, Silybum marianum, Tagetes erecta Linn., Terminalia chebula, Trigonella foenum-graecum, and Vitis vinifera. The observed anti-aging effects of cream formulations could be an outcome of a coordinating action of multiple constituents. Of numerous botanicals, the phenolic acids and flavonoids appear effective against UVR-induced damage; however the evidence-based studies for their anti-aging effects are still needed.

Simultaneous determination of arbutin and its decomposed product hydroquinone in whitening creams using high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection: Effect of temperature and pH on decomposition

OBJECTIVE

Arbutin is an effective agent for the treatment of melanin disorders. Arbutin may be converted to hydroquinone under conditions of high temperature, ultraviolet (UV) radiation and dilute acid. The aim of the current study was to develop an analytical method to determine the levels of arbutin and hydroquinone in whitening cosmetic products using high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC-DAD). In addition, we investigated the effects of high temperature and pH on the decomposition of arbutin.

METHODS

Samples extracted using two-step sonications were separated on a C18 column using a gradient mobile phase consisting of water and methanol. A 60-mm (40 μL) DAD cell was used to enhance the sensitivity of hydroquinone determination. Thermal decomposition of arbutin was evaluated at temperatures ranging from 60 to 120°C for 1-36 h.

RESULTS

The method showed good linearity (R(2) ≥ 0.9997), precision (relative standard deviation, RSD < 5%) and acceptable extraction recovery (90-102.6%). The limits of quantitation for arbutin and hydroquinone were 0.0085 and 0.0119 μg mL(-1) , respectively. One sample of 21 cosmetic products tested contained arbutin at a concentration 1.61 g 100 g(-1) cream and 0.12 g 100 g(-1) cream of hydroquinone. Arbutin (327.18 ppm) decomposed after 6 h at 120°C and produced 10.73 ppm of hydroquinone.

CONCLUSION

The developed method is simple to detect both arbutin and hydroquinone simultaneously in cosmetic products, at an adequate level of sensitivity. Notably, temperature and pH did not influence the decomposition of arbutin to hydroquinone in a 2% arbutin cream.

Physiological effects of formulation containing tannase-converted green tea extract on skin care: physical stability, collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase activities

Background

Green tea contains numerous polyphenols, which have health-promoting effects. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of tannase-converted green tea extract (TGE) formulation on the physical stability and activities of skin-related enzymes.

Methods

Physical stability was evaluated by measuring the pH, precipitation, and colors at 25 ± 2 °C/ambient humidity and at 40 ± 2 °C/70% ± 5% relative humidity for 4 months. Activities of collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase as skin-related enzymes were assessed on TGE formulation.

Results

The concentrations of epigallocatechin-3-gallate and epicatechin-3-gallate in green tea extract were greatly decreased to the extent of negligible level when treated with tannase. The formulation containing 5% tannase-converted green tea extract showed relatively stable pH, precipitation, and color features for 16 weeks. When TGE was added to the formulation, there was a significant increase in the inhibition of elastase and tyrosinase activities (p < 0.05) compared with the formulation containing 5% normal green tea extract.

Conclusion

The TGE could be used in cosmetics as skin antiwrinkling or depigmenting agent.

Development and validation of a method for allantoin determination in liposomes and pharmaceutical formulations

The aim of this work was to develop and validate an ultraviolet derivative spectrophotometric (UVDS) method for the quantitative determination of allantoin (ALL) in liposomes, gels and creams. Liposomes were prepared by methods of thin film hydration and mechanical agitation. Solutions of ALL in 0.1 mol/L NaOH with ethanol:water (70:30, v/v) were prepared in order to destroy liposome vesicles. Spectral interference from components of liposomes, cream, gel and ALL degradation products was eliminated using the second-order derivative of the zero-order spectrum. Characterization of ALL in 0.1 mol/L NaOH was carried out by direct infusion mass spectrometry. Absorbances of ALL solutions were measured at 266.6 nm of the second-derivative spectrum and linearity was observed in the ALL concentration range of 50-300 μgmL(-1) (correlation coefficient (r)=0.9961). The mean recovery percentage was 100.68 ± 1.61, repeatability expressed as relative standard deviation (RSD) was 1.07 and 2.12%, and intermediate precision (RSD) was 2.16%. The proposed UVDS method was found to be linear, precise, accurate, robust and selective, providing rapid and specific determination of ALL in raw materials and in topical formulations.