Non-invasive depth profile imaging of the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microscopy: first insights into the method

Effect of Penetration Enhancer on the Structure of Stratum Corneum: On-Site Study by Confocal Polarized Raman Imaging

Keratin and lipid structures in the stratum corneum (SC) are closely related to the SC barrier function. The application of penetration enhancers (PEs) disrupts the structure of SC, thereby promoting infiltration. To quantify these PE-induced structural changes in SC, we used confocal Raman imaging (CRI) and polarized Raman imaging (PRI) to explore the integrity and continuity of keratin and lipid structures in SC. The results showed that water is the safest PE and that oleic acid (OA), sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), and low molecular weight protamine (LMWP) disrupted the ordered structure of keratin, while azone and liposomes had less of an effect on keratin. Azone, OA, and SDS also led to significant changes in lipid structure, while LMWP and liposomes had less of an effect. Establishing this non-invasive and efficient strategy will provide new insights into transdermal drug delivery and skin health management.

Recent Advances in Characterization of Melanin Pigments in Biological Samples

The melanin pigments eumelanin (EM) and pheomelanin (PM), which are dark brown to black and yellow to reddish-brown, respectively, are widely found among vertebrates. They are produced in melanocytes in the epidermis, hair follicles, the choroid, the iris, the inner ear, and other tissues. The diversity of colors in animals is mainly caused by the quantity and quality of their melanin, such as by the ratios of EM versus PM. We have developed micro-analytical methods to simultaneously measure EM and PM and used these to study the biochemical and genetic fundamentals of pigmentation. The photoreactivity of melanin has become a major focus of research because of the postulated relevance of EM and PM for the risk of UVA-induced melanoma. Our biochemical methods have found application in many clinical studies on genetic conditions associated with alterations in pigmentation. Recently, besides chemical degradative methods, other methods have been developed for the characterization of melanin, and these are also discussed here.

Efficacy and Tolerability of Cosmetic Serums Enriched with Five Forms of Hyaluronic Acid as Part of Biweekly Diamond Tip Microdermabrasion Treatments for Facial Skin Dryness and Age-Associated Features

Purpose

There is growing interest in combining topical treatments with aesthetic procedures to combat signs of aging skin. This study aimed to assess the efficacy and tolerability of a novel cosmetic serum containing 5 different forms of HA (HA⁵ DG) when used via a proprietary diamond-tip microdermabrasion procedure (DG) to treat skin dryness, fine lines/wrinkles, rough texture, and dullness.

Patients and Methods

In this open-label, single-center study, participants received HA⁵ DG as part of a biweekly DG procedure on the face and neck for 12 weeks. Study participants also applied another take-home HA⁵ serum to the face twice daily at home, along with a basic skincare regimen. The efficacy of the combined treatment was measured by clinical quantification of multiple skin appearance features, analysis of bioinstrumental measurements, and digital photography.

Results

This study enrolled 27 participants, with an average age of 42.7 years and Fitzpatrick skin phototypes I-III (59.3%), IV (18.5%), and V-VI (22.2%), and 23 participants completed the study. The combined treatment had effects in fine lines/wrinkles, skin dryness, smoothness, radiance, firmness, and hydration 15 minutes post-DG. Furthermore, the significant improvements observed in dryness, fine lines/wrinkles, skin smoothness, and radiance were still visible 3 days after and maintained at week 12. Additionally, smoothing of coarse lines/wrinkles, improvement of skin tone evenness, hyperpigmentation, photodamage, and transepidermal water loss were observed at week 12. The treatment had a favorable tolerability profile and was perceived as efficacious and highly satisfactory.

Conclusion

This novel combined treatment delivered immediate and prolonged skin hydration and high participant satisfaction, proving it can be an excellent approach for skin rejuvenation.

Novel aspects of Raman spectroscopy in skin research

The analytical technology of Raman spectroscopy has an almost 100‐year history. During this period, many modifications and developments happened in the method like discovery of laser, improvements in optical elements and sensitivity of spectrometer and also more advanced light detection systems. Many types of the innovative techniques appeared (e.g. Transmittance Raman spectroscopy, Coherent Raman Scattering microscopy, Surface‐Enhanced Raman scattering and Confocal Raman spectroscopy/microscopy). This review article gives a short description about these different Raman techniques and their possible applications. Then, a short statistical part is coming about the appearance of Raman spectroscopy in the scientific literature from the beginnings to these days. The third part of the paper shows the main application options of the technique (especially confocal Raman spectroscopy) in skin research, including skin composition analysis, drug penetration monitoring and analysis, diagnostic utilizations in dermatology and cosmeto‐scientific applications. At the end, the possible role of artificial intelligence in Raman data analysis and the regulatory aspect of these techniques in dermatology are briefly summarized. For the future of Raman Spectroscopy, increasing clinical relevance and in vivo applications can be predicted with spreading of non‐destructive methods and appearance with the most advanced instruments with rapid analysis time.

Carotenoids from Persimmon (Diospyros kaki Thunb.) Byproducts Exert Photoprotective, Antioxidative and Microbial Anti-Adhesive Effects on HaCaT

Persimmon (Diospyros kaki Thunb.) fruits are a remarkable source of carotenoids, which have shown protective effects against UV radiation in bacteria, fungi, algae, and plants. The aim of this study was to analyze the photoprotection provided by an acetone extract, rich in carotenoids and obtained from byproducts derived from the persimmon juice industry, against UV-induced cell death in the keratinocyte HaCaT cell line. For this purpose, the cytotoxicity and phototoxicity of carotenoid extract, as well as its intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging and anti-adhesive activities towards HaCaT cells, were evaluated. The in vitro permeation test provided information about the permeability of the carotenoid extract. Persimmon extracts, rich in carotenoids (PEC), were absorbed by HaCaT keratinocyte cells, which reduced the UV-induced intracellular ROS production in treated cells. Thus, PEC exerted a photoprotective and regenerative effect on UV-irradiated HaCaT cells, and this protection was UV dose-dependent. No cytotoxic effect was observed in HaCaT cultures at the concentration tested. PEC treatment also stimulated the adhesion capacity of skin microbiome to HaCaT cells, while exhibiting a significant anti-adhesive activity against all tested pathogens. In conclusion, PEC showed potential for use as a functional ingredient in skin-care products.

Critical parameters for accurate monitoring of caffeine penetration in porcine skin using confocal Raman spectroscopy

In this research, we addressed a challenge while measuring the penetration performance of caffeine (CAF) using confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS). Normally in the process of CRS analysis, skin sample was moved from an incubation setup to a specified CRS-measuring sample holder. Accurate data collection may be questioned due to the variation of the environment the skin placed in. Therefore, two critical parameters including the CRS measuring temperature and proper skin hydration were focused; accordingly, four different conditions were designed. First, the skin was incubated in a real-time device with the skin placing onto PBS-filled chamber where the temperature was adjusted to 32℃. This device can be fixed under the CRS microscope, enabling simultaneous skin incubation and dynamic CRS measurements (condition i, reference). The other conditions referred to skins incubated in Franz diffusion cells for simulating the common experimental procedures. In order to control variables of CRS measuring condition, skins were transferred from cells to real-time device and open device. In real-time device, proper skin hydration was maintained and the skin temperature was adjusted to 32℃ (condition ii) and room temperature (condition iii). In open device, the skin was in a less hydrated state by moving onto a PBS-soaked filter paper and wrapped with aluminum foil at room temperature (condition iv). The skin penetration performances measured in these conditions were compared with reference. Caffeine solution and gel formulation were separately applied to the skin. The results showed in both cases that the decrease of skin temperature and hydration in condition iii and iv would apparently induce the decrease of detected caffeine signal, resulting in the inaccurate data collection. To this point, it indicates the reduction of solubilized caffeine in skin layer. We suggest the forming of caffeine crystallization at varied skin conditions to be the factor. Achieved video image, CRS spectrum collection and surface scan demonstrated the caffeine crystallization process on superficial skin layer. Polarized microscopic images exemplified the crystalline drug on tape stripped skin layers. It can be a potential support of caffeine crystallization inside skin. In short, we suggest the consideration of these parameters during CRS measurements for accurate monitoring of topical drug delivery. Meanwhile, the use of real-time device for dynamic skin incubation and data collection provides advantages in saving time and efforts in this study.

Recent advances in transdermal drug delivery systems: a review

Various non-invasive administrations have recently emerged as an alternative to conventional needle injections. A transdermal drug delivery system (TDDS) represents the most attractive method among these because of its low rejection rate, excellent ease of administration, and superb convenience and persistence among patients. TDDS could be applicable in not only pharmaceuticals but also in the skin care industry, including cosmetics. Because this method mainly involves local administration, it can prevent local buildup in drug concentration and nonspecific delivery to tissues not targeted by the drug. However, the physicochemical properties of the skin translate to multiple obstacles and restrictions in transdermal delivery, with numerous investigations conducted to overcome these bottlenecks. In this review, we describe the different types of available TDDS methods, along with a critical discussion of the specific advantages and disadvantages, characterization methods, and potential of each method. Progress in research on these alternative methods has established the high efficiency inherent to TDDS, which is expected to find applications in a wide range of fields.

Retaining Skin Barrier Function Properties of the Stratum Corneum with Components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor-A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Double-Blind In Vivo Study

The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This method allowed for the elucidation of subtle differences between the verum and the placebo even though the components of the verum naturally occur in the SC. This differentiation is not possible non-invasively by conventional methods. In this study, we found that the applied verum and placebo formulations disrupted the equilibrium of water, NMF and lipids in the SC. The adverse effects of the formulation could be mitigated by incorporating it into a simplified supplementation of NMF molecules. As a long-term effect, the amount of strongly bound water increases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) and the amount of weakly bound water decreases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) for the verum. This supplement was also unexpectedly able to prevent intercellular lipids (ICL) disorganization in selected depths. In the long term, the verum treatment limited the lateral disorganization of the ICL to the upper 20% SC depth. Further research is required to elucidate the interplay of these factors in the SC, to better understand their contribution to the equilibrium and barrier function of the skin. This understanding of the interaction of these naturally occurring components could help in the future to develop and optimize topical treatments for diseases like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis where the skin barrier is disrupted.

Optimal configuration of confocal Raman spectroscopy for precisely determining stratum corneum thickness: Evaluation of the effects of polyoxyethylene stearyl ethers on skin

Properties regarding stratum corneum (SC), the outermost membrane of the skin, remain an active area in dermatologic and cosmetic research. The reduced thickness of SC is associated with varied adverse statuses such as skin lipid deficiency, skin barrier dysfunctions and skin deceases, etc. Emulsifiers with existing irritative effects on skin components also face the risk of decreasing SC thickness. We have been focusing on the effects of PEGylated emulsifiers on the skin and have an interest in finding the role of their polyethylene glycol (PEG)-chain length in tuning skin irritations. With this aim, PEG-stearyl ethers with different numbers of hydrophilic chains were applied on the skin, and their influence on skin thickness was discovered to determine their skin barrier effect. Confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) with extensive application in skin research was used here. To obtain the precise determination of skin thickness, our secondary aim was to find the optimal CRS configuration referring to varied objectives and pinhole sizes where further study is still in demand. Therefore, SC thickness measured via eddy current approach served as reference. The applied PEG-stearyl ethers formed the system to achieve varied thicknesses. Results confirmed that the skin interactions rose with increasing PEG-chain length, however only up to a certain limit, with decreasing effects recorded from PEG-40 stearyl ether and no effects observed from PEG-100 stearyl ether. Simultaneously, CRS combined with water immersion objective and 50 μm pinhole presented the most consistent values to the references and exhibited better spectral intensity and signal-to-noise ratio. Correlation plots involving different cases of configurations were calculated for error corrections. Taken together, this work helps to identify the potential mechanisms governing the interactions between PEG-stearyl ethers and skin and offers powerful evidence of using CRS as a reliable alternative to obtain accurate thickness values.

Tracking heavy-water-incorporated confocal Raman spectroscopy for evaluating the effects of PEGylated emulsifiers on skin barrier

The class of PEGylated emulsifiers finds broad application in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. We target on one of the categories of polyethylene glycol (PEG) alkyl ethers with different lipophilic and hydrophilic chain length and aim to examine their effects on the skin comprehensively. In this study, we employed confocal Raman spectroscopy for skin depth profiling and imaging. A unique probe of heavy water (D₂ O) was incorporated, which can be tracked percutaneously and simultaneously monitor the effects caused by emulsifiers. According to the results, most of the PEGylated emulsifiers caused changes in skin lipid content/organization and induced the alteration in relative water content/hydrogen bonding structure. The results obtained from the depth profiling analysis provided the possibility to estimate the least penetration depth of emulsifiers. Among them, PEG-20 ethers displayed the most penetration ability. Meanwhile, it is interesting to find that the treatment of emulsifiers also affected the spatial distribution of D₂ O whose differences were in line with the molecular skin variations. In particular, the isotopic H/D substitution in the skin was highlighted in detail. This result supports the possibility to use D₂ O as an excellent and cost-effective probe to evaluate the skin barrier function.

A New Method for In-Situ Skin Penetration Analysis by Confocal Raman Microscopy

In the development of dermal drug formulations and cosmetics, understanding the penetration properties of the active ingredients is crucial. Given that widespread methods, including tape stripping, lack in spatial resolution, while being time- and labour-intensive, Confocal Raman Microscopy is a promising alternative. In optimizing topically applied formulations, or the development of generic formulations, comparative in-situ measurements have a huge potential of saving time and resources. In this work, we show our approach to in-situ skin penetration analysis by confocal Raman Microscopy. To analyse feasibility of the approach, we used caffeine solutions as model vehicles and tested the effectiveness of 1,2-pentanediol as a penetration enhancer for delivery to the skin.

Melanin distribution from the dermal-epidermal junction to the stratum corneum: non-invasive in vivo assessment by fluorescence and Raman microspectroscopy

The fate of melanin in the epidermis is of great interest due to its involvement in numerous physiological and pathological processes in the skin. Melanin localization can be assessed ex vivo and in vivo using its distinctive optical properties. Melanin exhibits a characteristic Raman spectrum band shape and discernible near-infrared excited (NIR) fluorescence. However, a detailed analysis of the capabilities of depth-resolved confocal Raman and fluorescence microspectroscopy in the evaluation of melanin distribution in the human skin is lacking. Here we demonstrate how the fraction of melanin at different depths in the human skin in vivo can be estimated from its Raman spectra (bands at 1,380 and 1,570 cm-1) using several procedures including a simple ratiometric approach, spectral decomposition and non-negative matrix factorization. The depth profiles of matrix factorization components specific to melanin, collagen and natural moisturizing factor provide information about their localization in the skin. The depth profile of the collagen-related matrix factorization component allows for precise determination of the dermal-epidermal junction, i.e. the epidermal thickness. Spectral features of fluorescence background originating from melanin were found to correlate with relative intensities of the melanin Raman bands. We also hypothesized that NIR fluorescence in the skin is not originated solely from melanin, and the possible impact of oxidized species should be taken into account. The ratio of melanin-related Raman bands at 1,380 and 1,570 cm-1 could be related to melanin molecular organization. The proposed combined analysis of the Raman scattering signal and NIR fluorescence could be a useful tool for rapid non-invasive in vivo diagnostics of melanin-related processes in the human skin.

Raman fingerprints as promising markers of cellular senescence and aging

Due to our aging population, understanding of the underlying molecular mechanisms constantly gains more and more importance. Senescent cells, defined by being irreversibly growth arrested and associated with a specific gene expression and secretory pattern, accumulate with age and thus contribute to several age-related diseases. However, their specific detection, especially in vivo, is still a major challenge. Raman microspectroscopy is able to record biochemical fingerprints of cells and tissues, allowing a distinction between different cellular states, or between healthy and cancer tissue. Similarly, Raman microspectroscopy was already successfully used to distinguish senescent from non-senescent cells, as well as to investigate other molecular changes that occur at cell and tissue level during aging. This review is intended to give an overview about various applications of Raman microspectroscopy to study aging, especially in the context of detecting senescent cells.

Methods to Evaluate Skin Penetration In Vitro

Dermal and transdermal drug therapy is increasing in importance nowadays in drug development. To completely utilize the potential of this administration route, it is necessary to optimize the drug release and skin penetration measurements. This review covers the most well-known and up-to-date methods for evaluating the cutaneous penetration of drugs in vitro as a supporting tool for pharmaceutical research scientists in the early stage of drug development. The aim of this article is to present various experimental models used in dermal/transdermal research and summarize the novel knowledge about the main in vitro methods available to study skin penetration. These techniques are: Diffusion cell, skin-PAMPA, tape stripping, two-photon microscopy, confocal laser scanning microscopy, and confocal Raman microscopic method.

A human skin high-throughput formulation screening method using a model hydrophilic drug

Franz cell (FC) experiments in topical and transdermal drug development represent the gold standard in vitro method but require a relatively high quantity of human skin, are low-throughput, and are time-consuming to perform. To address these issues, we studied a micro-well plate-based screening method for permeability and retention that could enable the direct screening of large numbers of formulations simultaneously across human skin. Using freshly excised dermatomed human skin modified to reflect poor barrier function and a model hydrophilic compound, Sulforhodamine B (SRB), FC permeation and retention quantification was compared to the 96-well high-throughput system (HTS). The skin was analyzed using 2-photon microscopy to determine the drug distribution within the skin. A screen of 15 different formulations in triplicate in a single piece of human skin, using full factorial design was then conducted. Permeability of SRB across the skin as well as the drug distribution profile of SRB retained in the skin were similar for the FC and HTS system. The influence of different excipients on drug retention was observed in the full factorial formulation screen. The HTS method is promising for the investigation of large numbers of formulations and the influence of formulations changes in skin retention of drug.

Novel confocal Raman microscopy method to investigate hydration mechanisms in human skin

BACKGROUND

Skin hydration is essential for maintaining stratum corneum (SC) flexibility and facilitating maturation events. Moisturizers contain multiple ingredients to maintain and improve skin hydration although a complete understanding of hydration mechanisms is lacking. The ability to differentiate the source of the hydration (water from the environment or deeper skin regions) upon application of product will aid in designing more efficacious formulations.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Novel confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) experiments allow us to investigate mechanisms and levels of hydration in the SC. Using deuterium oxide (D₂ O) as a probe permits the differentiation of endogenous water (H₂ O) from exogenous D₂ O. Following topical application of D₂ O, we first compare in vivo skin depth profiles with those obtained using ex vivo skin. Additional ex vivo experiments are conducted to quantify the kinetics of D₂ O diffusion in the epidermis by introducing D₂ O under the dermis.

RESULTS

Relative D₂ O depth profiles from in vivo and ex vivo measurements compare well considering procedural and instrumental differences. Additional in vivo experiments where D₂ O was applied following topical glycerin application increased the longevity of D₂ O in the SC. Reproducible rates of D₂ O diffusion as a function of depth have been established for experiments where D₂ O is introduced under ex vivo skin.

CONCLUSION

Unique information regarding hydration mechanisms are obtained from CRM experiments using D₂ O as a probe. The source and relative rates of hydration can be delineated using ex vivo skin with D₂ O underneath. One can envision comparing these depth-dependent rates in the presence and absence of topically applied hydrating agents to obtain mechanistic information.

Raman Imaging of Small Biomolecules

Imaging techniques greatly facilitate the comprehensive knowledge of biological systems. Although imaging methodology for biomacromolecules such as protein and nucleic acids has been long established, microscopic techniques and contrast mechanisms are relatively limited for small biomolecules, which are equally important participants in biological processes. Recent developments in Raman imaging, including both microscopy and tailored vibrational tags, have created exciting opportunities for noninvasive imaging of small biomolecules in living cells, tissues, and organisms. Here, we summarize the principle and workflow of small-biomolecule imaging by Raman microscopy. Then, we review recent efforts in imaging, for example, lipids, metabolites, and drugs. The unique advantage of Raman imaging has been manifested in a variety of applications that have provided novel biological insights.

Enhanced vitamin C skin permeation from supramolecular hydrogels, illustrated using in situ ToF-SIMS 3D chemical profiling

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a naturally occurring, powerful anti-oxidant with the potential to deliver numerous benefits to the skin when applied topically. However, topical use of this compound is currently restricted by an instability in traditional formulations and the delivery and eventual fate of precursor compounds has been largely unexplored. Time of flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) is an emerging technique in the field of skin research and offers detailed chemical analysis, with high mass and spatial resolution, as well as profiling capabilities that allow analysis as a function of sample depth. This work demonstrates the successful use of ToF-SIMS to obtain, in situ, accurate 3D permeation profiles of both ascorbic acid and a popular precursor, ascorbyl glucoside, from ex vivo porcine skin. The significant permeation enhancing effect of a supramolecular hydrogel formulation, produced from an amphiphilic gemini imidazolium-based surfactant, was also demonstrated for both compounds. Using ToF-SIMS, it was also possible to detect and track the breakdown of ascorbyl glucoside into ascorbic acid, elucidating the ability of the hydrogel formulation to preserve this important conversion until the targeted epidermal layer has been reached. This work demonstrates the potential of ToF-SIMS to provide 3D permeation profiles collected in situ from ex vivo tissue samples, offering detailed analysis on compound localisation and degradation. This type of analysis has significant advantages in the area of skin permeation, but can also be readily translated to other tissue types.

Label-Free Molecular Imaging of Biological Cells and Tissues by Linear and Nonlinear Raman Spectroscopic Approaches

Raman spectroscopy is an emerging technique in bioanalysis and imaging of biomaterials owing to its unique capability of generating spectroscopic fingerprints. Imaging cells and tissues by Raman microspectroscopy represents a nondestructive and label-free approach. All components of cells or tissues contribute to the Raman signals, giving rise to complex spectral signatures. Resonance Raman scattering and surface-enhanced Raman scattering can be used to enhance the signals and reduce the spectral complexity. Raman-active labels can be introduced to increase specificity and multimodality. In addition, nonlinear coherent Raman scattering methods offer higher sensitivities, which enable the rapid imaging of larger sampling areas. Finally, fiber-based imaging techniques pave the way towards in vivo applications of Raman spectroscopy. This Review summarizes the basic principles behind medical Raman imaging and its progress since 2012.

Radical-Scavenging Activity of a Sunscreen Enriched by Antioxidants Providing Protection in the Whole Solar Spectral Range

BACKGROUND/AIM

The main reason for extrinsic skin aging is the negative action of free radicals. The formation of free radicals in the skin has been associated with ultraviolet (UV) exposure and also to visible (VIS) and near-infrared (NIR) irradiations. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy of a sunscreen in the whole solar range.

METHODS

The radical-scavenging activity of a sunscreen in the UV, VIS, and NIR ranges was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. Ex vivo penetration profiles were determined using confocal Raman microscopy on porcine ear skin at different time points after application.

RESULTS

Compared to the untreated skin, the sunscreen decreased the skin radical formation in the UV and VIS regions. Additional protection in the VIS and NIR ranges was observed for the sunscreen containing antioxidants (AO). The penetration depth of the cream was less than 11.2 ± 3.0 µm for all time points.

CONCLUSION

A sunscreen containing AO improved the photoprotection in the VIS and NIR ranges. The sunscreen was retained in the stratum corneum. Therefore, these results show the possibility of the development of effective and safer sunscreen products.

In vitro models for evaluating safety and efficacy of novel technologies for skin drug delivery

For preclinical testing of novel therapeutics, predictive in vitro models of the human skin are required to assess efficacy, absorption and safety. Simple as well as more sophisticated three-dimensional organotypic models of the human skin emerged as versatile and powerful tools simulating healthy as well as diseased skin states. Besides addressing the demands of research and industry, such models serve as valid alternative to animal testing. Recently, the acceptance of several models by regulatory authorities corroborates their role as important building block for preclinical development. However, valid assessment of readout parameters derived from these models requires suitable analytical techniques. Standard analytical methods are mostly destructive and limited regarding in-depth investigation on molecular level. The combination of adequate in vitro models with modern non-invasive analytical modalities bears a great potential to address important skin drug delivery related questions. Topics of interest are for instance the assessment of repeated dosing effects and xenobiotic biotransformation, which cannot be analyzed by destructive techniques. This review provides a comprehensive overview of current in vitro skin models differing in functional complexity and mimicking healthy as well as diseased skin states. Further, benefits and limitations regarding analytical evaluation of efficacy, absorption and safety of novel drug carrier systems applied to such models are discussed along with a prospective view of anticipated future directions. In addition, emerging non-invasive imaging modalities are introduced and their significance and potential to advance current knowledge in the field of skin drug delivery is explored.

Confocal Raman microscopy and multivariate statistical analysis for determination of different penetration abilities of caffeine and propylene glycol applied simultaneously in a mixture on porcine skin ex vivo

Propylene glycol is one of the known substances added in cosmetic formulations as a penetration enhancer. Recently, nanocrystals have been employed also to increase the skin penetration of active components. Caffeine is a component with many applications and its penetration into the epidermis is controversially discussed in the literature. In the present study, the penetration ability of two components - caffeine nanocrystals and propylene glycol, applied topically on porcine ear skin in the form of a gel, was investigated ex vivo using two confocal Raman microscopes operated at different excitation wavelengths (785nm and 633nm). Several depth profiles were acquired in the fingerprint region and different spectral ranges, i.e., 526-600cm(-1) and 810-880cm(-1) were chosen for independent analysis of caffeine and propylene glycol penetration into the skin, respectively. Multivariate statistical methods such as principal component analysis (PCA) and linear discriminant analysis (LDA) combined with Student's t-test were employed to calculate the maximum penetration depths of each substance (caffeine and propylene glycol). The results show that propylene glycol penetrates significantly deeper than caffeine (20.7-22.0μm versus 12.3-13.0μm) without any penetration enhancement effect on caffeine. The results confirm that different substances, even if applied onto the skin as a mixture, can penetrate differently. The penetration depths of caffeine and propylene glycol obtained using two different confocal Raman microscopes are comparable showing that both types of microscopes are well suited for such investigations and that multivariate statistical PCA-LDA methods combined with Student's t-test are very useful for analyzing the penetration of different substances into the skin.

How Confocal Is Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy on the Skin? Impact of Microscope Configuration and Sample Preparation on Penetration Depth Profiles

BACKGROUND/AIMS

The aim of the study was to elucidate the effect of sample preparation and microscope configuration on the results of confocal Raman microspectroscopic evaluation of the penetration of a pharmaceutical active into the skin (depth profiling).

METHODS

Pig ear skin and a hydrophilic formulation containing procaine HCl were used as a model system. The formulation was either left on the skin during the measurement, or was wiped off or washed off prior to the analysis. The microscope configuration was varied with respect to objectives and pinholes used.

RESULTS

Sample preparation and microscope configuration had a tremendous effect on the results of depth profiling. Regarding sample preparation, the best results could be observed when the formulation was washed off the skin prior to the analysis. Concerning microscope configuration, the use of a 40 × 0.6 numerical aperture (NA) objective in combination with a 25-µm pinhole or a 100 × 1.25 NA objective in combination with a 50-µm pinhole was found to be advantageous.

CONCLUSION

Complete removal of the sample from the skin before the analysis was found to be crucial. A thorough analysis of the suitability of the chosen microscope configuration should be performed before acquiring concentration depth profiles.

Repartition of oil miscible and water soluble UV filters in an applied sunscreen film determined by confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Repartition of UV filters responsible for sun protection in the sunscreen film upon application depends on the formulation of the sunscreen.

Advances in the bioanalytical study of drug delivery across the skin

The study of a drug's dermal penetration profile provides important pharmaceutical data for the rational development of topical and transdermal delivery systems because the skin is a broadly used delivery route for local and systemic drugs and a potential route for gene therapy and vaccines. Monitoring drug penetration across the skin and quantifying its levels in different skin layers have been constant challenges due to the detection limitations of the available techniques, as well as the inherent interference in this tissue. This review explores and discusses several bionalytical methods that are indispensable tools to study drugs across the skin. In addressing the main topic, we structure the review highlighting the skin as an important route of drug administration and its structure, skin membrane models most used and its properties, in vitro and in vivo assays most used in the study of drug delivery to the skin, the techniques for processing the skin for subsequent analysis by bioanalytical methods that have a theoretical and practical approach showing its applicability, limitations and also including examples of its use. This review has a comprehensive approach in order to help researchers design their experiments and update the applicability and advances in this area of expertise.

Confocal Raman microscopic investigation of the effectiveness of penetration enhancers for procaine delivery to the skin

A methodology that employs confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) on ex vivo skin samples is proposed for the investigation of drug content and distribution in the skin. To this end, the influence of the penetration enhancers propylene glycol and polyoxyethylene-23-lauryl ether on the penetration and permeation of procaine as a model substance was investigated. The drug content of skin samples that had been incubated with semisolid formulations containing one of these enhancers was examined after skin segmentation. The experiments showed that propylene glycol did not affect the procaine content that was delivered to the skin, whereas polyoxyethylene-23-lauryl ether led to higher procaine contents and deeper penetration. Neither substance was found to influence the permeation rate of procaine. It is thereby shown that CRM can provide additional information on drug penetration and permeation. Furthermore, the method was found to enhance the depth from which Raman spectra can be collected and to improve the depth resolution compared to previously proposed methods.

Revealing changes in molecular composition of plant cell walls on the micron-level by Raman mapping and vertex component analysis (VCA)

At the molecular level the plant cell walls consist of a few nanometer thick semi-crystalline cellulose fibrils embedded in amorphous matrix polymers such as pectins, hemicelluloses, and lignins. The arrangement of these molecules within the cell wall in different plant tissues, cells and cell wall layers is of crucial importance for a better understanding and thus optimized utilization of plant biomass. During the last years Confocal Raman microscopy evolved as a powerful method in plant science by revealing the different molecules in context with the microstructure. In this study two-dimensional spectral maps have been acquired of micro-cross-sections of spruce (softwood) and beech (hardwood). Raman images have been derived by using univariate (band integration, height ratios) and multivariate methods [vertex component analysis (VCA)]. While univariate analysis only visualizes changes in selected band heights or areas, VCA separates anatomical regions and cell wall layers with the most different molecular structures. Beside visualization of the distinguished regions and features the underlying molecular structure can be derived based on the endmember spectra. VCA revealed that the lumen sided S3 layer has a similar molecular composition as the pit membrane, both revealing a clear change in lignin composition compared to all other cell wall regions. Within the S2 layer a lamellar structure was visualized, which was elucidated to derive from slight changes in lignin composition and content and might be due to successive but not uniform lignification during growth.