Development and photoprotective effect of a sunscreen containing the antioxidants Spirulina and dimethylmethoxy chromanol on sun-induced skin damage

The use of natural extracts with photoprotective activity: a 2015-2023 patent prospection

Synthetic sunscreen offers protection against excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun, and protects the skin from possible damage. However, they have low efficacy against the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are highly reactive molecules that can be generated in the skin when it is exposed to UV radiation, and are known to play a role in oxidative stress, which can contribute to skin aging and damage. Thus, there is an ongoing search for sunscreens that do not have these negative effects. One promising source for these is natural products. Therefore, the current patent review summarizes topical formulations made from natural compounds that have antioxidant properties and can be used as photoprotective or anti-aging agents, either using a single natural extract or a combination of extracts. The review reports basic patent information (applicant country, type of applicant, and year of filing) and gives details about the invention, including its chemical composition, and the in vitro and in vivo tests performed. These patents describe natural products that can be used to protect the skin and validate their efficacy, and safety, in addition to standardizing their formulations. The compositions described illustrate the consistent innovation in the use of natural products to protect against UV damage and photoaging disorders, a promising field which is receiving growing global recognition.

Nutritional Supplements for Skin Health-A Review of What Should Be Chosen and Why

Supplementation of micronutrients is considered to be crucial in the reinforcement of the skin's barrier. In this paper, 14 nutritional compounds commonly used in food or pharmaceutic industries were analyzed in terms of influencing skin conditions. The major objective of this paper was to provide a narrative review of the available literature regarding several chosen compounds that are currently widely recommended as supplements that aim to maintain proper and healthy skin conditions. We conducted a review of the literature from PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science until September 2023 without any other restrictions regarding the year of the publication. Ultimately, we reviewed 238 articles, including them in this review. Each of the reviewed compounds, including vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, curcumin, chlorella, Omega-3, biotin,Ppolypodium leucotomos, Simmondsia chinesis, gamma oryzanol, olive leaf extract, spirulina, and astaxanthin, was observed to present some possible effects with promising benefits for a skin condition, i.e., photoprotective radiation. Adding them to the diet or daily routine might have a positive influence on some skin inflammatory diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. Further, UV radiation protection facilitated by some supplements and their impact on human cells might be helpful during chemotherapy or in preventing melanoma development. Further research is needed because of the lack of clear consensus regarding the doses of the described compounds that could provide desirable effects on the skin.

Addition of Spirulina to Craft Beer: Evaluation of the Effects on Volatile Flavor Profile and Cytoprotective Properties

SPME-GC-MS and PTR-ToF-MS techniques were applied to describe the content of volatile flavor compounds in a craft beer before and after adding spirulina. The obtained results showed that the volatile profile of the two beer samples differed. Furthermore, to chemically characterize biomass spirulina, a derivatization reaction followed by GC-MS analysis was performed, highlighting a high content of molecules belonging to different chemical classes, such as sugars, fatty acids and carboxylic acids. A spectrophotometric analysis of total polyphenols and tannins, investigation into the scavenging activity towards DPPH and ABTS radicals and confocal microscopy of brewer's yeast cells were carried out. Moreover, the cytoprotective and antioxidant properties towards the oxidative damage induced by tert-butyl hydroperoxide (tBOOH) in human H69 cholangiocytes were investigated. Finally, the modulation of Nrf2 signaling under oxidative stress conditions was also evaluated. Both samples of beer were shown to contain similar levels of total polyphenols and tannins, with slightly increased levels in that containing spirulina 0.25% w/v. Moreover, the beers were found to be endowed with radical scavenging properties towards both DPPH and ABTS radicals, albeit with a weak contribution of spirulina; however, a higher riboflavin content was detected in spirulina-treated yeast cells. Conversely, the addition of spirulina (0.25% w/v) appeared to improve the cytoprotective properties of beer towards tBOOH-induced oxidative damage in H69 cells and reduce intracellular oxidative stress. Accordingly, the cytosolic Nrf2 expression was found to be increased.

Development of Photoprotective Formulations: Influence of Formulation Composition on the SPF and Mechanical Properties

The evaluation of the vehicle formulation is important during the development of sunscreens, as it influences their efficacy. In this context, the aim of the present study was to develop photoprotective formulations and evaluate the influence of the formulation components in the sun protection factor (SPF) and physical-mechanical and sensory properties of the formulations. We evaluated four sunscreens through a 2² full factorial design in terms of concentration and emulsifier type. The design of experiments (DOE) parameters were SPF, thixotropy, and work of shear. After the screening of the formulations by DOE, the SPF values, mechanical and sensory properties, and stability were evaluated. All study formulations showed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior, compatible with sunscreens, and presented SPF values above 30. The factors evaluated in DOE had significant interactions for all the analyzed parameters. The concentration of the phosphate-based emulsifier influenced the SPF parameter. The work of shear was influenced by the concentration of polyglyceryl-based emulsifier. The concentration and the type of emulsifier influenced the thixotropy. Finally, effective sunscreens were developed, and the type and concentration of emulsifiers had an influence on the SPF of the formulations. In addition, the formulations chosen by DOE were stable and showed good sensory properties.

TiO2-embedded mesoporous silica with lower porosity is beneficial to adsorb the pollutants and retard UV filter absorption: A possible application for outdoor skin protection

The purpose of the current investigation was to develop multifunctional TiO₂-embedded mesoporous silica incorporating avobenzone to protect against environmental stress through pollutant adsorption and UVA protection. We sought to explore the effect of the mesoporous porosity on the capability of contaminant capture and the suppression of avobenzone skin penetration. The porosity of the mesoporous silica was tuned by adjusting the ratio of template triblock copolymers (Pluronic P123 and F68). The Pluronic P123:F68 ratios of 3:1, 2:2, and 1:3 produced mesoporous silica with pore volumes of 0.66 (TiO₂/SBA-L), 0.47 (TiO₂/SBA-M), and 0.25 (TiO₂/SBA-S) cm³/g, respectively. X-ray scattering and electron microscopy confirmed the SBA-15 structure of the as-prepared material had a size of 3-5 μm. The maximum adsorbability of fluoranthene and methylene blue was found to be 43% and 53% for the TiO₂/SBA-S under UVA light, respectively. The avobenzone loaded into the mesoporous silica demonstrated the synergistic effect of in vitro UVA protection, reaching an UVA/UVB absorbance ratio of near 1.5 (Boots star rating = 5). The encapsulation of avobenzone into the TiO₂/SBA-S lessened cutaneous avobenzone absorption from 0.76 to 0.50 nmol/mg, whereas no reduction was detected for the TiO₂/SBA-L. The avobenzone-loaded TiO₂/SBA-S hydrogel exhibited a greater improvement in skin barrier recovery and proinflammatory mediator mitigation compared to the SBA-S hydrogel (without TiO₂). The cytokines/chemokines in the photoaged skin were reduced by two- to three-fold after TiO₂/SBA-S treatment compared to the non-treatment control. Our data suggested that the mesoporous formulation with low porosity and a specific surface area showed effective adsorbability and UVA protection, with reduced UVA filter absorption. The versatility of the developed mesoporous system indicated a promising potential for outdoor skin protection.

Novel Siprulina platensis Bilosomes for Combating UVB Induced Skin Damage

The recent interest in bioactive compounds from natural sources has led to the evolution of the skin care industry. Efforts to develop biologically active ingredients from natural sources have resulted in the emergence of enhanced skin care products. Spirulina (SPR), a nutritionally enriched cyanobacteria-type microalga, is rich in nutrients and phytochemicals. SPR possesses antioxidant, immunomodulatory, and anti-inflammatory activities. Spirulina-loaded bilosomes (SPR-BS), a novel antiaging drug delivery system, were designed for the first time by incorporation in a lecithin−bile salt-integrated system for bypassing skin delivery obstacles. The optimized BS had good entrapment efficiency, small particle size, optimal zeta potential, and sustained drug release pattern. Blank and SPR-loaded BS formulations were safe, with a primary irritancy index of <2 based on the Draize test. In vivo tests were conducted, and photoprotective antiaging effects were evaluated visually and biochemically by analyzing antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-wrinkling markers following ultraviolet (UV) B irradiation. Results of biochemical marker analysis and histopathological examination confirmed the superior antiaging effect of SPR-BS compared with SPR. Thus, SPR-loaded BS is a promising nanoplatform for SPR delivery, can be used for treating UV-induced skin damage, and offers maximum therapeutic outcomes.

The Antioxidant Activity of a Commercial and a Fractionated Phycocyanin on Human Skin Cells In Vitro

The protective effects for cells against chemical and UVA stress of a commercial phycocyanin (PC) for food use and a PC extracted from Arthrospira platensis (Spirulina) in phosphate buffer were assessed. The purity of the commercial PC, spectrophotometrically estimated as A620/A280 and confirmed by HPLC, was higher than that of the fractionated PC (2.0 vs. 1.5) but was twofold less concentrated. The oxygen radical antioxidant capacities (ORACs) of the commercial and fractionated PCs were 12,141 ± 1928 and 32,680 ± 3295 TE/100 g, respectively. The degradation of PCs upon exposure to UVA was spectrophotometrically estimated, and cytotoxicity was evaluated with the MTS [3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-5-(3-carboxymethoxyphenyl)-2-(4-sulfophenyl)-2H-tetrazolium) test on human fibroblasts and keratinocytes. A lower level of reactive oxygen species (ROS) was recorded in the two cell lines incubated with the commercial PC after menadione treatment (p < 0.01) and UVA exposure (p < 0.001) on fibroblasts after 5 min and keratinocytes up to 25 min, compared with controls. Differently, the fractionated PC was not protective and showed significant (p < 0.01) paradoxical prooxidant effects. Overall, the PC for food consumption demonstrated a high safety threshold and antioxidant ability to cells that, along with its coloring power, make it an excellent candidate for cosmetic formulations.

Shedding a New Light on Skin Aging, Iron- and Redox-Homeostasis and Emerging Natural Antioxidants

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are necessary for normal cell signaling and the antimicrobial defense of the skin. However excess production of ROS can disrupt the cellular redox balance and overwhelm the cellular antioxidant (AO) capacity, leading to oxidative stress. In the skin, oxidative stress plays a key role in driving both extrinsic and intrinsic aging. Sunlight exposure has also been a major contributor to extrinsic photoaging of the skin as its oxidising components disrupt both redox- and iron-homeostasis, promoting oxidative damage to skin cells and tissue constituents. Upon oxidative insults, the interplay between excess accumulation of ROS and redox-active labile iron (LI) and its detrimental consequences to the skin are often overlooked. In this review we have revisited the oxidative mechanisms underlying skin damage and aging by focussing on the concerted action of ROS and redox-active LI in the initiation and progression of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging processes. Based on these, we propose to redefine the selection criteria for skin antiaging and photoprotective ingredients to include natural antioxidants (AOs) exhibiting robust redox-balancing and/or iron-chelating properties. This would promote the concept of natural-based or bio-inspired bifunctional anti-aging and photoprotective ingredients for skincare and sunscreen formulations with both AO and iron-chelating properties.

Quality by design enabled the development of stable and effective oil-in-water emulsions at compounding pharmacy: the case of a sunscreen formulation

It is widely accepted that the use of topical sunscreens has medical importance with potential to prevent skin damage by protecting from solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) effects. Pharmaceutical emulsions require an optimal qualitative and quantitative combination of emollients, emulsifiers and others compounds such as softening agents and, for sunscreens, a combination of chemical and physical UV filters. Herein, we applied the quality by design (QbD) concept to achieve stable and effective compounded sunscreen emulsions. By using the statistical tool of design of experiments, it was possible to identify the influence of emulsifier type (with low and high Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance) and concentrations of emollient and softening agent on the achievement of formulations with suitable organoleptic and physicochemical features. Compounded emulsions with pleasant macroscopic aspects were obtained. Three formulations with physicochemical properties in targeted ranges were selected, namely pH ∼6.0, conductivity > 0.0 µS/cm², spreadability factor ∼1-1.5 g/mm², viscosity ∼12000 mPa.s and sunscreen protection factor ∼30. Freeze-thaw cycle and accelerated stability study under different storage conditions allowed selecting a stable emulsion that ensured photoprotection in biological assays. The QbD approach was essential to select the best, low-cost compounded sunscreen emulsion, with targeted physicochemical parameters.

Cyanobacteria and microalgae bioactive compounds in skin-ageing: potential to restore extracellular matrix filling and overcome hyperpigmentation

As the largest organ in human body, skin acts as a physicochemical barrier, offering protection against harmful environmental stressors, such as chemicals, pathogens, temperature and radiation. Nonetheless, skins prominence goes further, with a significant psychosocial role in an increasingly ageing population. Prompted by consumers’ concern regarding skincare, cosmetic industry has been developing new formulas capable of lessening the most visible signs of ageing, including reduction in skin density and elasticity, wrinkling and hyperpigmentation. Allied to skincare is the rising importance set on natural products, sustainably obtained from less environmental impacting methods. Cyanobacteria and microalgae are adding importance in this field, given their ability to biosynthesize secondary metabolites with anti-ageing potential. In this review, we present an overview on the potential of cyanobacteria and microalgae compounds to overcome skin-ageing, essentially by exploring their effects on the metalloproteinases collagenase, elastase, gelatinase and hyaluronidase, and in other enzymes involved in the pigmentation process.

Protective effects of liquiritin on UVB-induced skin damage in SD rats

Overexposure to ultraviolet B (UVB) rays can cause damage to the skin. Liquiritin has a variety of pharmacological effects, such as anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. In the present study, the effect of liquiritin on UVB irradiated rat skin was investigated. Results showed that UVB irradiation caused erythema and wrinkles on the skin surface, as well as thickening and loss of elasticity of the epidermis and a significant increase in the level of ROS in the skin tissue. At the same time, western blot detected an increase in nuclear factor kappa-B (NF-κB) and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and Elisa also detected an increase in pro-inflammatory factors. Therefore, we hypothesized that UVB irradiation-induced damage is associated with inflammation. Interestingly, application of liquiritin to exposed skin of rats reduced the increase in ROS, pro-inflammatory factors, and MMPs caused by UVB irradiation and increased the levels of Sirtuin3 (SIRT3) and Collagen α1. In addition, after intraperitoneal injection of the SIRT3 inhibitor 3-TYP in rats, the protective effect of liquiritin against UVB damage was found to be diminished. These results suggested that promotion of SIRT3 with liquiritin inhibits UVB-induced production of pro-inflammatory mediators, possibly acting through the SIRT3/ROS/NF-κB pathway. In conclusion, this study suggests that liquiritin is an effective drug candidate for the prevention of UVB damage.

Eco-friendly sunscreen formulation based on starches and PEG-75 lanolin increases the antioxidant capacity and the light scattering activity in the visible light

Most modern sunscreens contain physical filters, which scatter the sunlight, increasing the photons' pathway in the upper stratum corneum. This effect can lead to a better efficacy of the UV filters and improve the diffuse reflection. However, the addition of nanosized inorganic UV filters reduces the antioxidant capacity of sunscreen formulations. Two cream formulations (F1, F2) which differ in the ingredient PEG75 Lanolin (F2), have been characterized for their radical protection factor (RPF) and their optical properties in vitro using electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy and UV/VIS spectrometry. The RPF for PEG-75 Lanolin was also determined. Furthermore, their radical protection properties were analyzed on porcine skin ex vivo after visible light irradiation by EPR. The structure of each formulation in the skin surface was determined by reflectance confocal microscopy in vivo. The addition of lanolin increased the reflectance and reduced the transmittance for visible light, improving the scattering drastically. Besides, the antioxidant capacity was also increased for F2, something unpublished until now. F1 presented a lower scattering provided by starches. The sunscreens showed high scattering properties and antioxidant capacity, especially for F2, which presented the lowest radical formation in the skin model. These results are consistent with the RPF measurements where F2 has a higher RPF value (193 ± 3 × 10¹⁴ radicals/mg) than F1 (155 ± 4 × 10¹⁴ radicals/mg) and for PEG-75 Lanolin (37 ± 1 × 10¹⁴ radicals/mg). The combination of starches and PEG-75 Lanolin is the first solution to provide both, light scattering and antioxidant capacity, in sunscreens.

Insights into the structure of sunscreen lotions: a small-angle neutron scattering study

Sunscreen lotions and creams are arguably the most popular products used to protect the skin against harmful UV radiation. Several studies have been conducted to untangle the internal microstructure of creams and lotions. However, the effect of UV filters and other materials such as preservatives, on the internal microstructure and the aesthetics of these products is not yet fully understood. Using small-angle neutron scattering (SANS), we were able to investigate the effect of adding the commonly used organic UV filters (avobenzone (AVB), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EMC), ethylhexyl triazone (EHT) and bemotrizinol (BMT)) and the water soluble preservatives (1,5-pentanediol (1,5-PD) and 1,2-hexanediol (1,2-HD)), on the internal architecture and microstructure of an oil-in-water (o/w) based sunscreen lotion. Our findings highlight the complexities of these formulations, and how the introduction of different additives could influence their structure and possibly their performance.

Sunscreen lotions and creams are arguably the most popular products used to protect the skin against harmful UV radiation.

Multifunctional TiO2/SBA-15 mesoporous silica hybrids loaded with organic sunscreens for skin application: The role in photoprotection and pollutant adsorption with reduced sunscreen permeation

TiO₂ acts as an inorganic sunscreen and photocatalyst to protect humans from environmental pollutants. We incorporated TiO₂ into mesoporous silica (SBA-15) for skin application to prevent environmental stresses including UVA irradiation and pollutant invasion. Organic ultraviolet (UV)A filters such as avobenzone and oxybenzone were then loaded into mesoporous support for synergistic sunscreen efficiency. The as-prepared formulations with different TiO₂ amounts (10 %-50 %) were fabricated. The pore size decreased from 4.72 to 4.00 nm following the increase in TiO₂ percentage. TiO₂/SBA-15 captured about 60 % fluoranthene and 80 % furfural within 3 h with no significant difference due to different TiO₂ content. The in vitro photoprotection assessed by UVA/UVB ratio exhibited the increase in Boots star rating from 2 to 3 to 5 by entrapment of avobenzone into TiO₂/SBA-15. Thirty-percent TiO₂/SBA-15 in hydrogel decreased avobenzone and oxybenzone deposition by 70 % and 80 % compared to free form, respectively. Avobenzone and TiO₂ supplementation to SBA-15 significantly alleviated skin cell death and neutrophil recruitment in the photoaged mouse skin compared to the SBA-15 application alone. Compared to the UVA-irradiated skin, 30 % TiO₂/SBA-15 showed a 2.5- and 3.1-fold decline in IL-1β and IL-6 levels, respectively. The TiO₂/SBA-15 hybrid was considered non-irritant based on results of cytotoxicity assay, skin histology, and cutaneous barrier function. Our data indicate that the versatile mesoporous silica is an effective system for topical use in sunscreen and skin protection.

Sunscreens and Cosmetic Formulations Containing Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Rice Peptides for the Improvement of Skin Photoaging: A Double-blind, Randomized Placebo-controlled Clinical Study

Photoprotective formulations containing substances with antioxidant properties in combination have been used as a strategy for the improvement of photoaged skin conditions. However, there is a lack of studies evaluating the clinical efficacy of these substances in young women with signs of photoaging. Thus, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of sunscreens and cosmetic formulations containing ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and rice peptides for the improvement of skin photoaging in young women. A double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled clinical efficacy study was conducted on 60 female subjects aged 20-30 years with skin changes related to photoaging and without photoprotective habits. The hydrolipidic layer conditions and structural and morphological characteristics of the skin were evaluated by biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The results showed that the daily use of the formulations under study improved the skin conditions by increasing skin hydration and dermis echogenicity. In addition, the application of the active substances reduced skin hyperpigmentation and increased epidermal cell renewal. In summary, the present study showed the importance of daily application of sunscreens and formulations with antioxidant properties for the prevention and attenuation of skin changes related to photoaging in young women.

Spirulina for Skin Care: A Bright Blue Future

Spirulina stands out as a sustainable bioactive microalga with health-promoting properties, and an important active ingredient of natural cosmetics products. Currently, Spirulina has been incorporated in topical skin-care formulations, such as a moisturizing, antiwrinkles, antiaging and antiacne agent. Furthermore, this microalga is used by cosmetic formulators to promote healthy sunscreen protection, to treat skin pigmentation disorders and to heal wounds. Most of commercial cosmetics claim a large range of Spirulina properties, including antioxidant, revitalizing, remineralizing, moisturizing, protecting alongside cleansing and shining action, both for hair and for skin. In this review, recent cosmetic applications of Spirulina are revised, by highlighting its ability in improving skin appearance and health. Additionally, the analysis of the Spirulina cosmetic benchmark is discussed. Looking at the current emergence of the beauty industry, many Spirulina extracts and dry powder/flakes, both the starting ingredient and final Spirulina-based cosmetic products, are available on the market. In this industrial field, Spirulina—mainly Spirulina platensis and Spirulina maxima—is used either as a powder, like in the case of cheaper products, or as a phycocyanin-rich blue extract, particularly in the luxury market. It is likely that, in the coming years, diversity, quality and topical applications of Spirulina will rapidly increase.

Development of Photoprotective Formulations Containing Nanostructured Lipid Carriers: Sun Protection Factor, Physical-Mechanical and Sensorial Properties

The effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation emitted by the sun are cumulative and can result in chemical changes such as the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to the regular use of sunscreen. As an alternative, the use of antioxidants, such as quercetin, into sunscreen can control these effects and provide additional skin photoprotection. However, quercetin presents low stability and poor permeation, alternatively, the encapsulation in nanoparticles can improve the stability and skin permeation. Thus, this study aimed to develop photoprotective formulations containing nanoencapsulated quercetin, characterize the physical-mechanical and sensorial properties, and evaluate the influence of nanocarriers on sun protection factor (SPF) and the immediate clinical effects. Sunscreen formulations with or without antioxidants in a free form or loaded in nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) were developed. After the stability, rheological behavior, texture profile, and in vivo SPF (sun protector factor) evaluation, sixty female participants, aged between 20 and 35 years, were enclosed to evaluate the sensorial properties and immediate clinical effects of the formulation in the skin hydration using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The correlation of rheological behavior, texture profile, and sensory properties enabled the correct choice of formulation ingredients. In addition, the use of NLCs with quercetin significantly improved the SPF in vivo of the developed photoprotective formulation, without increasing the amount of UV filters. Finally, the association of NLCs in the photoprotective formulation showed synergistic effects in the SPF and an improvement in the skin barrier function and hydration.

UVB photoprotective capacity of hydrogels containing dihydromyricetin nanocapsules to UV-induced DNA damage

We evaluate the effect of cationic nanocapsules containing dihydromyricetin (DMY) flavonoid for safe topical use in photoprotection against UV-induced DNA damage. The stability was investigated for feasibility to produce hydrogels containing cationic nanocapsules of the flavonoid DMY (NC-DMY) for 90 days under three different storage conditions (4 ± 2 °C, 25 ± 2 °C, and 40 ± 2 °C), as well as evaluation of skin permeation and its cytotoxicity in skin cell lines. The physicochemical and rheological characteristics were maintained during the analysis period under the different aforementioned conditions. However, at 25 °C and 40 °C, the formulations indicated yellowish coloration and DMY content reduction. Therefore, the ideal storage condition of 4 °C was adopted. DMY remained in the stratum corneum and the uppermost layers of the skin. Regarding safety, all formulations demonstrated to be safe for topical application. NC-DMY exhibited a 50% Solar Protection Factor (SPF-DNA) against DNA damage caused by UVB radiation and demonstrated 99.9% protection against DNA lesion induction. These findings establish a promising formulation containing nanoencapsulated DMY flavonoids with a photoprotective and antioxidant potential of eliminating reactive oxygen species formed by solar radiation.

Current developments in the nanomediated delivery of photoprotective phytochemicals

Natural products have been used to protect the skin from harmful UV radiation for decades. Due to the ecotoxicological implications of synthetic sunscreen exposure in aquatic ecosystems, there is a greater need to explore alternative sources of UV filters. Recent research has focused on discovering novel UV absorbing photoprotective molecules from nature. In response to the excessive damage caused by UVB rays, plants induce the production of high concentrations of phytoprotective secondary metabolites and anti-oxidative enzymes. Despite promising UV absorbing and photoprotective properties, plant secondary metabolites have been underutilized in topical delivery due to low solubility and high instability. Numerous phytochemicals have been effectively nanosized, incorporated in formulations, and studied for their sustained effects in photoprotection. The present review outlines recent developments in nanosizing and delivering photoprotective crude plant extract and phytochemicals from a phytochemical perspective. We searched for articles using keywords: "UV damage," "skin photoprotection," "photodamage," and "nano delivery" in varied combinations. We identified and reviewed literature from 43 original research articles exploring nanosized phytochemicals and crude plant extracts with photoprotective activity. Nanosized phytochemicals retained higher amounts of bioactive compounds in the skin and acted as depots for their sustained release. Novel approaches in nanosizing considerably improved the photostability, efficacy, and water resistance of plant secondary metabolites. We further discuss the need for broad-spectrum sunscreen products, potential challenges, and future growth in this area.

Insights and controversies on sunscreen safety

Although sunlight provides several benefits, ultraviolet (UV) radiation plays an important role in the development of various skin damages such as erythema, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis. Despite cells having endogenous defense systems, damaged DNA may not be efficiently repaired at chronic exposure. In this sense, it is necessary to use artificial defense strategies such as sunscreen formulations. UV filters should scatter, reflect, or absorb solar UV radiation in order to prevent direct or indirect DNA lesions. However, the safety of UV filters is a matter of concern due to several controversies reported in literature, such as endocrine alterations, allergies, increased oxidative stress, phototoxic events, among others. Despite these controversies, the way in which sunscreens are tested is essential to ensure safety. Sunscreen regulation includes mandatory test for phototoxicity, but photogenotoxicity testing is not recommended as a part of the standard photosafety testing program. Although available photobiological tests are still the first approach to assess photosafety, they are limited. Some existing tests do not always provide reliable results, mainly due to limitations regarding the nature of the assessed phototoxic effect, cell UV sensitivity, and the irradiation protocols. These aspects bring queries regarding the safety of sunscreen wide use and suggest the demand for the development of robust and efficient in vitro screening tests to overcome the existing limitations. In this way, Saccharomyces cerevisiae has stood out as a promising model to fill the gaps in photobiology and to complete the mandatory tests enabling a more extensive and robust photosafety assessment.

Progressing Towards the Sustainable Development of Cream Formulations

This work aims at providing the assumptions to assist the sustainable development of cream formulations. Specifically, it envisions to rationalize and predict the effect of formulation and process variability on a 1% hydrocortisone cream quality profile, interplaying microstructure properties with product performance and stability. This tripartite analysis was supported by a Quality by Design approach, considering a three-factor, three-level Box-Behnken design. Critical material attributes and process parameters were identified from a failure mode, effects, and criticality analysis. The impact of glycerol monostearate amount, isopropyl myristate amount, and homogenization rate on relevant quality attributes was estimated crosswise. The significant variability in product droplet size, viscosity, thixotropic behavior, and viscoelastic properties demonstrated a noteworthy influence on hydrocortisone release profile (112 ± 2–196 ± 7 μg/cm²/√h) and permeation behavior (0.16 ± 0.03–0.97 ± 0.08 μg/cm²/h), and on the assay, instability index and creaming rate, with values ranging from 81.9 to 120.5%, 0.031 ± 0.012 to 0.28 ± 0.13 and from 0.009 ± 0.000 to 0.38 ± 0.07 μm/s, respectively. The release patterns were not straightforwardly correlated with the permeation behavior. Monitoring the microstructural parameters, through the balanced adjustment of formulation and process variables, is herein highlighted as the key enabler to predict cream performance and stability. Finally, based on quality targets and response constraints, optimal working conditions were successfully attained through the establishment of a design space.

Exploring the photo protective potential of solid lipid nanoparticle-based sunscreen cream containing Aloe vera

Nowadays, the sunscreen creams are composed of mostly synthetic chemicals and other organic compounds which were found to enter into the blood stream on topical application raising concerns in the scientific community. The scientific community has now shifted their attention to herbal formulations due to toxicity of these synthetic molecules. Aloe vera is a xerophitic plant having excellent anti-oxidant properties. The permeation effect and drug stability of the drug candidate can be significantly enhanced by formulating it into solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN). The main objectives of the study were to formulate and evaluate Aloe vera-loaded SLN sunscreen cream and to determine its photoprotective potential. The Aloe vera-loaded SLNs were formulated by microemulsification technique. The developed SLNs were studied for its entrapment efficiency, poly dispersity index (PDI), zeta potential, particle size, and other characterization techniques. Finally, the optimized SLNs were incorporated into the sunscreen cream and evaluated for its spreadability, viscosity, extrudability, drug content, in vitro drug release, ex vivo permeation, determination of sun protection factor (SPF), skin irritation test, and accelerated stability studies. The in vitro SPF was found out to be 16.9 ± 2.44 and the in vivo SPF observed to be approximately 14.81 ± 3.81, respectively. Stability studies were performed under accelerated conditions and no appreciable changes in the parameters were noticed. The solid lipid nanoparticles of Aloe vera were incorporated into a cream and the SPF of the resultant sunscreen cream was found to be on par with the sunscreens that were currently available in the market.

Implications of dichlorofluorescein photoinstability for detection of UVA-induced oxidative stress in fibroblasts and keratinocyte cells

Pre-incubation with 10 μM DCFDA for 30 min in PBS was sufficient to generate a sensitive and reproducible standard curve for detection of UVA-induced ROS in HaCaT and HPF cells, with no effects on cell viability or morphology.

Brazilian and French sensory perception of complex cosmetic formulations: a cross-cultural study

OBJECTIVE

Brazil and France are two major beauty markets worldwide. Despite this, there is not much cross-information on sensory analysis of cosmetic products between both population of these countries. The objective of this study was to compare the sensory perception of cosmetic formulations between Brazilian and French assessors and establish cross-culturally preferences.

METHODS

For this, a total panel of 100 consumers of cosmetics evaluated four different products. The same protocol for the sensory analysis was followed in both countries.

RESULTS

The panellists were able to perceive differences in the products and the method proved to be repeatable in both countries. The presence of UV filters in the formulation was noticed and displeased both populations. Brazilians, although dissatisfied with the sensory aspect of the sunscreen, are willing to use it for its UV protection.

CONCLUSION

This work delivers important information on the sensory perception of cosmetics by people from different countries and brings important knowledge to develop products with textural properties that will be appreciated worldwide.

Skin characterization and immediate effects of different dermocosmetic treatments in French and Brazilian skin

BACKGROUND

All over the world, people face the same skin problems. However, their skin characteristics are different. Thus, it is a challenge to prescribe treatments that will be effective on different skin types. Therefore, it is very important to consider the skin biology when indicating a dermocosmetic treatment.

OBJECTIVES

To assess skin biophysical parameters in French and Brazilian subjects and to verify the efficacy of four dermocosmetic treatments in these populations.

METHODS

Five test areas were defined on each volar forearm of the eighteen Brazilian and eighteen French participants using a randomized design. Biophysical measurements in terms of skin hydration, skin barrier function, skin brightness, and skin viscoelasticity were performed before and after 60 minutes of treatment.

RESULTS

Skin biophysical differences between populations were found. French skin has been shown to be more hydrated regarding epidermal mechanic properties and stratum corneum water content and more radiant when compared with Brazilian skin. However, it showed more signs of cutaneous aging and fatigue effects on skin. The Brazilian skin showed better skin barrier function. In addition, the treatments were effective in both populations.

CONCLUSIONS

Despite the differences found in French and Brazilian skin, the proposed dermocosmetic treatments showed effective in both populations.