Characteristics and in vitro anti-skin aging activity of gallic acid loaded in cationic CTAB niosome

Sonophoresis mediated diffusion of caffeine loaded Transcutol® enriched cerosomes for topical management of cellulite

The goal of this research was to augment the deposition of caffeine loaded Transcutol® enriched cerosomes (TECs) gel for efficient topical treatment of cellulite utilizing the sonophoresis technique. Caffeine-loaded TECs were prepared using thin film hydration method applying 23 factorial design to study the impact of different factors, each with two levels on the entrapment efficiency (EE%), particle size (PS), polydispersity index (PDI), and zeta potential (ZP) of the formulated TECs. The studied factors were cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide (CTAB) amount (mg) (X1), phosphatidylcholine (PC) amount (mg) (X2), and Transcutol® amount (mg) (X3). Design-Expert® software was utilized to determine the optimum TECs formulation. Afterward, the optimum TECs formulation was loaded into a gel and subjected to extra investigations. The optimum TECs formulation was (TEC5) which was prepared using 10 mg of CTAB, 150 mg of PC, and 10 mg of Transcutol®. TEC5 presented EE% of 87.44 ± 0.14 %, PS of 308.60 ± 13.38 nm, PDI of 0.455 ± 0.030, and ZP of 50.20 ± 1.55 mV. TEC5 had a fiber-like morphology, with elongated tubules of ceramide. Further, the optimum TECs formulation showed a high stability profile. Moreover, an in vivo dermatokinetic study showed superior deposition of caffeine from TEC5 gel coupled with the sonophoresis on rat skin compared to TEC5 gel and caffeine gel. Moreover, the histopathological study of TEC5 on rat skin confirmed the non-irritant nature of TEC 5 gel mediated by ultrasonic waves through the skin. Overall, the outcomes exposed the obvious superiority of sonophoresis delivered TECs-gel for topical delivery of caffeine for cellulite management.

Kunzea Ericoides (Kanuka) Leaf Extracts Show Moisturisation, Antioxidant, and UV Protection Effects in HaCaT Cells and Anti-melanogenesis Effects in B16F10 Cells

Kunzea ericoides (kanuka) products are well-known for their potent medicinal values in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory applications. The present study identified various compounds, such as chlorogenic acid, gallic acid, quercetin, and (E)-ferulic acid in the kanuka leaf extract, showing its potential use in maintaining skin health. The influence of kanuka leaf extract upon epidermal cells concerning cytotoxicity and in vitro activities of moisturisation, antioxidation, UV protection, and anti-melanogenesis effects were explored in the study. Kanuka leaf extract demonstrated significant promotion in the proliferation of HaCaT and B16F10 cells. After incubation with kanuka leaf extract, the content of ROS and DPPH in HaCaT was significantly decreased; at the same time, more SOD was produced. Furthermore, hyaluronidase-1 (HYAL-1) and HYAL-4 expressions were inhibited, while the aquaporin 3 (AQP-3) content was significantly increased in HaCaT. Kanuka leaf extract also inhibited the expressions of matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1) and MMP-14 in UV-induced HaCaT cells. In the B16F10 cell line, melanin and tyrosinase production were decreased under the presence of kanuka leaf extract, and the expressions of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TYRP-1), and TYRP-2 were also inhibited. The study validated kanuka leaf extract as an effective natural product against photoaging and melanogenesis.

Chitosan decorated oleosomes loaded propranolol hydrochloride hydrogel repurposed for Candida albicans-vaginal infection

Aim: Our investigation aims to estimate the antifungal effect of propranolol hydrochloride (PNL). Methods: Oleosomes (OLs) were fabricated by thin-film hydration and evaluated for entrapment efficiency (EE%), particle size (PS), polydispersity index (PDI), zeta potential (ZP), and amount of drug released after 6 h Q6h (%). Results: The optimal OL showed a rounded shape with optimum characteristics. The ex-vivo permeation and confocal laser scanning microscopy verified the prolonged release and well deposition of PNL-loaded OLs-gel. The in-silico assessment demonstrated the good stability of PNL with OLs' ingredients. In vivo evaluations for PNL-loaded OLs-gel showed a good antifungal impact against Candida albicans with good safety. Conclusion: This work highlights the potential of PNL-loaded OLs-gel as a potential treatment for candida vaginal infection.

Span 60/Cholesterol Niosomal Formulation as a Suitable Vehicle for Gallic Acid Delivery with Potent In Vitro Antibacterial, Antimelanoma, and Anti-Tyrosinase Activity

Natural compounds such as gallic acid (GA) have attracted more attention in cosmetic and pharmaceutical skin care products. However, the low solubility and poor stability of GA have limited its application. This study aimed to synthesize and characterize the GA niosomal dispersion (GAN) and investigate the potential of an optimal formulation as a skin drug delivery system for GA. For this purpose, GAN formulations were synthesized using the thin layer evaporation method with different molar ratios of Tween 60/Span 60, along with a constant molar ratio of polyethylene glycol 4000 (PEG-4000) and cholesterol in a methanol and chloroform solvent (1:4 v/v). The physicochemical properties of nanosystems in terms of size, zeta potential, drug entrapment, drug release, morphology, and system-drug interaction were characterized using different methods. In addition, in vitro cytotoxicity, anti-tyrosinase activity, and antibacterial activity were evaluated by MTT assay, the spectrophotometric method, and micro-well dilution assay. All formulations revealed a size of 80-276 nm, polydispersity index (PDI) values below 0.35, and zeta potential values below-9.7 mV. F2 was selected as the optimal formulation due to its smaller size and high stability. The optimal formulation of GAN (F2) was as follows: a 1:1 molar ratio of Span 60 to cholesterol and 1.5 mM GA. The release of the F2 drug showed a biphasic pattern, which was fast in the first 12 h until 58% was released. Our results showed the high antibacterial activity of GAN against Escherichia coli and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. The MTT assay showed that GA encapsulation increased its effect on B6F10 cancer cells. The F2 formulation exhibited potent anti-tyrosinase activity and inhibited melanin synthesis. These findings suggest that it can be used in dermatological skin care products in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries due to its significant antibacterial, anti-melanoma, and anti-tyrosinase activity.

Eco-friendly preparation, characterization, evaluation of anti-melanogenesis/antioxidant effect and in vitro/in vivo safety profile of kojic acid loaded niosome as skin lightener preparation

In the current study, an ultrasonic approach (as green method) was utilized to prepared kojic acid niosome (kojisome) which aimed to increase the dermal delivery and improving anti-melanogenesis properties. The study's findings demonstrated that increasing cholesterol enhanced the mean particle size from 68.333 ± 5.686 nm to 325.000 ± 15.099 nm and entrapment efficiency 0% to 39.341 ± 4.126% of the kojisome. Cholesterol may enhance the number and rigidity of bilayers that induced a size enhancement and entrapment efficiency. The skin permeability test revealed that kojisome gel had more kojic acid in dermal layers (437.563 ± 29.857 μg/cm2 or 16.624 ± 1.379%) than kojic acid plain gel (161.290 ± 14.812 μg/cm2 or 6.128 ± 0.672%). The niosome's lipophilicity allowed for gradual penetration, possibly due to better contact with the skin layers. Also, the extended-release behavior of improved kojisome exhibited high safety profile and low side effect in In vitro cytotoxicity assay, dermal irritation test, and Histo-pathological evaluation. Furthermore, optimum kojisome inhibited melanin formation (53.093 ± 2.985% at 1000 µM) higher than free kojic acid (62.383 ± 1.958%) significantly (p < 0.05). In addition, Kojisome 6 inhibited L-dopa auto-oxidation greater extent (94.806 ± 2.411%) than pure kojic acid solution (72.953 ± 2.728%). Kojisome by delivering and targeting large amount of kojic acid on specific site causes high efficacy in inhibition of melanin synthesis. The observations of this study revealed that the produced kojisome might be used as a potential nano-vehicle for kojic acid dermal administration, thereby opening up innovative options for the treatment of hyperpigmentation problems.

Antioxidants for improved skin appearance: Intracellular mechanism, challenges and future strategies

Recent advances in molecular and biochemical processes relevant to the skincare field have led to the development of novel ingredients based on antioxidants that can improve skin health and youthfulness. Considering the plethora of such antioxidants and the many implications for the skin's appearance, this review focuses on describing the critical aspects of antioxidants, including cosmetic functions, intracellular mechanisms and challenges. In particular, specialized substances are suggested for the treatment of each skin condition, such as skin ageing, skin dehydration and skin hyperpigmentation, which treatments can maximize effectiveness and avoid side effects during skin care processes. In addition, this review proposes advanced strategies that either already exists in the cosmetic market or should be developed to improve and optimize cosmetic' beneficial effects.

Development and quality assessment of glutathione tripeptide loaded niosome containing carbopol emulgels as nanocosmeceutical formulations

This study focuses on the preparation, physicopharmaceutical and mechanical characterization of reduced glutathione tripeptide loaded niosome containing emulgels as a novel nanocosmeceutical product. Prepared emulgel formulations were mainly composed of oily phase containing different lipids such as glycerine dibehenate, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, etc., and aqueous phase containing Carbopol934® as gelling agent. Niosomal lipidic vesicles prepared from Span 60 and cholesterol were subsequently incorporated into optimum emulgel formulations. The pH, viscosity, and textural/mechanical properties of emulgels were examined before and after the incorporation of niosomes. The viscoelasticity and morphological characterization were performed on the final formulation before the packed formulation's microbiological stability test. The hardness and compressibility results ensured easy removal of the emulgel from the container. Due to the carboxyl groups of Carbopol934®, moderate adhesiveness with good cohesiveness was achieved. The rheological characteristics of the emulgels were estimated by oscillatory testing and the data fitted with the Herschel-Bulkley model. Thus, the viscoelastic properties and shear-thinning flow of emulgels were demonstrated. The final formulation was microbiologically stable, and pathogens or skin-irritating allergens were not detected. An anti-aging cosmeceutical preparation containing glutathione tripeptide loaded lipid-based niosome dispersion, suitable for topical use due to its textural and viscosity properties, was successfully produced.

Stability and Antioxidant Activity of Pouteria macrophylla Fruit Extract, a Natural Source of Gallic Acid

Pouteria macrophylla (cutite) fruits are rich in phenolic acids, resulting in antioxidant and skin depigmenting activity. The aim of this study, then, is to evaluate the cutite extract stability under three variations of light, time, and temperature using a Box-Behnken experimental design to analyze through the surface response the variations of the total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant activity (AA), and gallic acid content (GA). A colorimetric assay was also performed, and a decrease in the darkening index was noticed due to the high phenolic coloration in the presence of light, indicating less degradation to extract stability. The experimental planning showed variations in all responses, and second-order polynomial models were calculated and considered predictable, as well as the effects were significant. The TPC exhibited a variation in less concentrated samples (0.5% p/v) at higher temperatures (90 °C). In contrast, the temperature was the only influential variable for AA, where only higher temperatures (60-90 °C) were able to destabilize the fruit extract. Differently, GA showed only the concentration as the influential variable, exhibiting that neither temperature nor time of exposure could affect the gallic acid content stability of P. macrophylla extract. For this, P. macrophylla extract was shown to be highly stable, providing a great perspective on cosmetic application.

Mechanism of skin whitening through San-Bai decoction-induced tyrosinase inhibition and discovery of natural products targeting tyrosinase

Melanin deposition is the main cause of skin darkening, which can lead to severe physical and psychological distress, necessitating the development of approaches for preserving skin health and fairness. Tyrosinase (TYR) is the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis, and its activity directly determines the degree of melanin accumulation in the skin, which in turn affects skin color. Currently, TYR inhibitors derived from natural products are widely used for skin whitening. San-Bai decoction (SBD) is effective for skin whitening and softening, but its mechanism of action, efficacy and high efficiency TYR inhibitors for skin whitening remain poorly understood. Here, we employed systems biology and network pharmacology to analyze the active compounds and targets of SBD, using the follow databases: TCMIP, TCMID, and BATMAN-TCM. Construct a molecular network centered on the regulation of TYR by SBD in skin whitening, using STRING database and cytoscape. Enrichment analysis using KOBAS database and ClusterProfiler. Virtual screening of candidate TYR inhibitors using Molecular Operating Environment software and Amber 18 software. SBD may act through tyrosine metabolism, melanogenesis, and other signaling pathways to regulate TYR activity and inhibit melanogenesis. We identified TYR and ESR1 as possible key targets for the whitening effect of SBD and screened out pentagalloylglucose, 1,3,6-tri-O-galloyl-beta-D-glucose, 1,2,4,6-tetragalloylglucose, and liquiritigenin 4',7-diglucoside as inhibitors of TYR, in addition to glycyrrhizic acid, pachymic acid methyl ester, nicotiflorin, gamma-sitosterol, and isoliensinine as inhibitors of ESR1. We also performed virtual drug screening of a library of natural small-molecule compounds (19,505 in total) and screened out lycopsamine, 2-phenylethyl b-D-glucopyranoside, and 6-beta-hydroxyhyoscyamine as inhibitors of TYR. We identified natural compounds with the potential for skin whitening through inhibition of TYR, thus advancing research on SBD and its applications.

Pharmacological Elevation of Cellular Dihydrosphingomyelin Provides a Novel Antiviral Strategy against West Nile Virus Infection

The flavivirus life cycle is strictly dependent on cellular lipid metabolism. Polyphenols like gallic acid and its derivatives are promising lead compounds for new therapeutic agents as they can exert multiple pharmacological activities, including the alteration of lipid metabolism. The evaluation of our collection of polyphenols against West Nile virus (WNV), a representative medically relevant flavivirus, led to the identification of N,N'-(dodecane-1,12-diyl)bis(3,4,5-trihydroxybenzamide) and its 2,3,4-trihydroxybenzamide regioisomer as selective antivirals with low cytotoxicity and high antiviral activity (half-maximal effective concentrations [EC₅₀s] of 2.2 and 0.24 μM, respectively, in Vero cells; EC₅₀s of 2.2 and 1.9 μM, respectively, in SH-SY5Y cells). These polyphenols also inhibited the multiplication of other flaviviruses, namely, Usutu, dengue, and Zika viruses, exhibiting lower antiviral or negligible antiviral activity against other RNA viruses. The mechanism underlying their antiviral activity against WNV involved the alteration of sphingolipid metabolism. These compounds inhibited ceramide desaturase (Des1), promoting the accumulation of dihydrosphingomyelin (dhSM), a minor component of cellular sphingolipids with important roles in membrane properties. The addition of exogenous dhSM or Des1 blockage by using the reference inhibitor GT-11 {N-[(1R,2S)-2-hydroxy-1-hydroxymethyl-2-(2-tridecyl-1-cyclopropenyl)ethyl]octanamide} confirmed the involvement of this pathway in WNV infection. These results unveil the potential of novel antiviral strategies based on the modulation of the cellular levels of dhSM and Des1 activity for the control of flavivirus infection.

Recent Advances in Herbal-Derived Products with Skin Anti-Aging Properties and Cosmetic Applications

Although aesthetic benefits are a desirable effect of the treatment of skin aging, it is also important in controlling several skin diseases, mainly in aged people. The development of new dermocosmetics has rapidly increased due to consumers' demand for non-invasive products with lower adverse effects than those currently available on the market. Natural compounds of plant origin and herbal-derived formulations have been popularized due to their various safe active products, which act through different mechanisms of action on several signaling pathways for skin aging. Based on this, the aim of the review was to identify the recent advances in herbal-derived product research, including herbal formulations and isolated compounds with skin anti-aging properties. The studies evaluated the biological effects of herbal-derived products in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies, highlighting the effects that were reported in clinical trials with available pharmacodynamics data that support their protective effects to treat, prevent, or control human skin aging. Thus, it was possible to identify that gallic and ferulic acids and herbal formulations containing Thymus vulgaris, Panax ginseng, Triticum aestivum, or Andrographis paniculata are the most promising natural products for the development of new dermocosmetics with skin anti-aging properties.

Characteristics and in vitro anti skin aging activity and UV radiation protection of morin loaded in niosomes

BACKGROUND

One of the dermatologic problems in elderly people is skin aging, which is a natural and complex biological process. Morin is a flavonoid with high radical scavenging activity as well as antityrosinase effects but its low water solubility has restricted its application.

AIMS

This research aimed to develop, characterize, and optimize morin niosomes composed of non-ionic surfactants, and evaluate the in vitro UV protection and antiaging effectiveness.

METHODS

Niosomes were prepared by the film hydration method with sorbitan monostearate (Span® 40), polyoxyethylenesorbitan monopalmitate (Tween® 40), and cholesterol. The niosomes were characterized in terms of size, zeta potential, morphology, in vitro release behavior, and drug entrapment efficiency (EE). Afterward, antiaging activity, including antityrosinase, antioxidant, intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging, and sun protection factor (SPF) were evaluated.

RESULTS

The optimized niosomes appeared as unilamellar vesicles with a spherical shape, with size, zeta potential, and EE values of 6.13 ± 0.40 μm, -0.81 ± 0.32 mV, and 89.35% ± 2.80%, respectively. The noisome formulation remained stable at -4°C for 3 months. The release profiles of morin loaded in niosomes revealed the extended release over 8 h and followed zero-order release kinetics. Morin-loaded niosomes exhibited no significant toxicity toward the L929 cell line. The niosome loaded with morin showed anti skin aging activity, including antityrosinase effects (IC50 = 13.17 ± 1.58 μg/ml), antioxidant (IC50 = 28.49 ± 2.05 μg/ml), and ROS scavenging activity. For 1% and 5% (w/w) morin niosomes in eucerin base cream, the SPF was 39.03 ± 1.01 and 38.15 ± 0.82, respectively, whereas the noisome-free morin cream exhibited an SPF of 4.47 ± 0.56.

CONCLUSION

Morin-loaded niosome has been shown to provide sun protection and antiaging effects, suggesting that it could be used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products.

Optimization of ultrasound-assisted extraction of bioactive compounds from coffee pulp using propylene glycol as a solvent and their antioxidant activities

In the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, it has been increasingly popular to use alternative solvents in the extraction of bioactive compounds from plants. Coffee pulp, a by-product of coffee production, contains different phenolic compounds with antioxidant properties. The effects of polyols, amplitude, extraction time, solvent concentration, and liquid-solid ratio on total phenolic content (TPC) using ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) were examined by single-factor studies. Three main factors that impact TPC were selected to optimize the extraction conditions for total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), total tannin content (TTC), and their antioxidant activities using the Box-Behnken design. Different extraction methods were compared, the bioactive compounds were identified and quantified by liquid chromatography triple quadrupole mass spectrometer (LC-QQQ), and the cytotoxicity and cellular antioxidant activities of the extract were studied. According to the response model, the optimal conditions for the extraction of antioxidants from coffee pulp were as follows: extraction time of 7.65 min, liquid-solid ratio of 22.22 mL/g, and solvent concentration of 46.71 %. Under optimized conditions, the values of TPC, TFC, TTC, 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazil (DPPH) radical scavenging assay, 2,2'-azino-bis-3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulphonic acid (ABTS) radical scavenging assay, and Ferric reducing antioxidant power assay (FRAP) were 9.29 ± 0.02 mg GAE/g sample, 58.82 ± 1.38 mg QE/g sample, 8.69 ± 0.25 mg TAE/g sample, 7.56 ± 0.27 mg TEAC/g sample, 13.59 ± 0.25 mg TEAC/g sample, and 10.90 ± 0.24 mg FeSO₄/g sample, respectively. Compared with other extraction conditions, UAE with propylene glycol extract (PG-UAE) was significantlyhigher in TPC, TFC, TTC, DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP response values than UAE with ethanol (EtOH-UAE), maceration with propylene glycol (PG-maceration), and maceration with ethanol (EtOH -maceration) (p < 0.05). Major bioactive compounds detected by LC-QQQ included chlorogenic acid, caffeine, and trigonelline. At higher concentrations starting from 5 mg/ml, PG-UAE extract showed higher cell viability than EtOH-UAE in both cytotoxicity and cellular antioxidant assays. The researcher expects that this new extraction technique developed in this work could produce a higher yield of bioactive compounds with higher biological activity. Therefore, they can be used as active ingredients in cosmetics (anti-aging products) and pharmaceutical applications (food supplements, treatment for oxidative stress-related diseases) with minimal use of chemicals and energy.

Novel development of cationic surfactant-based mucoadhesive nanovaccine for direct immersion vaccination against Francisella noatunensis subsp. orientalis in red tilapia (Oreochromis sp.)

Francisella noatunensis subsp. orientalis (Fno) is one of the infectious diseases that causes economic losses associated with tilapia mortality. Even though direct immersion administration of vaccines is more practicable for small fish and fry compared with oral and injection vaccination in the fields, the efficacy is still insufficient due to lower potency of antigen uptake. Herein, we accomplished the development of a mucoadhesive nanovaccine platform using cetyltrimethylammonium bromide (CTAB), a cationic surfactant, to improve the efficiency of immersion vaccination against Fno in tilapia. Cationic Fno nanovaccine (CAT-Fno-NV) was prepared though emulsification using an ultrasonic method. In our investigation, the CAT-Fno-NV increased the opportunity of Fno vaccine uptake by extending the contact time between vaccine and mucosal surface of fish gills and enhancing the protective efficacy against Fno infection. Fish were vaccinated with the CAT-Fno-NV by a direct immersion protocol. The challenge trial by Fno injection revealed that CAT-Fno-NV at the concentration 1:100 ratio (approximately 1 × 10⁶ cfu/mL) had the highest efficacy to protect fish from Fno infection at day 30 after post challenge period according to the total number of Fno detected in head kidney, spleen and liver. A significant upregulation of IgM gene was observed in gills, skin, head kidney, serum and peripheral blood lymphocytes (PBLs) and spleen tissues treated with WC and CAT-Fno-NV (1:100) vaccines, while IgT gene was highly expressed in only gills and skin tissues for treated WC and CAT-Fno-NV (1:100) groups. We anticipate that the cationic surfactant-based nanovaccine developed in this study could become an efficient alternative for direct immersion vaccination to induce humoral immune responses against Fno in vaccinated tilapia.

Recent Updates on Nanocosmeceutical Skin Care and Anti-Aging Products

Nanotechnology is an innovative area of science that deals with things smaller than 100 nanometers. The influence of nanotechnology in the cosmetic industry is overwhelming since it can enhance the properties attained by the particles at the nano level which includes color, solubility, etc, and also promotes the bioavailability of API. A plethora of nanomaterials can be employed in cosmetics including organic and inorganic nanoparticles. Unlike orthodox carriers, they facilitate easy penetration of the product into the skin and thereby increasing the stability and allowing a controlled drug release so that they can permeate deeper into the skin and start revitalizing it. Nanomaterials rejuvenate the skin by forming an occlusive barrier to inhibit the loss of water from the skin's surface and thereby moisturize the skin. Nano-cosmeceuticals are used to provide better protection against UV radiation, facilitate deeper skin penetration, and give long-lasting effects. Although they still have some safety concerns, hence detailed characterization or risk assessments are required to fulfill the standard safety requirements. In this review, an attempt is made to make a brief overview of various nanocosmeceutical skincare and anti-aging products.

Nanocarriers as Active Ingredients Enhancers in the Cosmetic Industry-The European and North America Regulation Challenges

“Flawless skin is the most universally desired human feature” is an iconic statement by Desmond Morris. Skin indicates one´s health and is so important that it affects a person’s emotional and psychological behavior, these facts having propelled the development of the cosmetics industry. It is estimated that in 2023, this industry will achieve more than 800 billion dollars. This boost is due to the development of new cosmetic formulations based on nanotechnology. Nanocarriers have been able to solve problems related to active ingredients regarding their solubility, poor stability, and release. Even though nanocarriers have evident benefits, they also present some problems related to the high cost, low shelf life, and toxicity. Regulation and legislation are two controversial topics regarding the use of nanotechnology in the field of cosmetics. In this area, the U.S. FDA has taken the lead and recommended several biosafety studies and post-market safety evaluations. The lack of a global definition that identifies nanomaterials as a cosmetic ingredient is a hindrance to the development of global legislation. In the EU, the legislation regarding the biosafety of nanomaterials in cosmetics is stricter. “The cost is not the only important issue, safety and the application of alternative testing methods for toxicity are of crucial importance as well”.

Research on Antioxidant Performance of Diglucosyl gallic Acid and Its Application in Emulsion Cosmetics

The present study investigates the in vitro tyrosinase inhibition activity, antioxidant capacity of diglucosyl gallic acid as well as its clinical efficacy as a cosmetic ingredient. The results show that diglucosyl gallic acid has a stronger ability to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase compared with VC, and its IC50 value is 2.68 mg/mL. Their potential antioxidant activities are further evaluated by the DPPH (α, α-diphenyl-β-picrylhydrazyl) method and the ABTS [2,2´-azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonate)] radical cation (ABTS·⁺ ) method, in which the gallic acid demonstrates a better performance than the traditional antioxidant vitamin C (VC), while the diglucosyl gallic acid shows poorer performance. As to the reducing ability, VC has the best performance, much better than gallic acid and diglucosyl gallic acid. Furthermore, through clinical experiments, it is shown the application of the diglucosyl gallic acid as a cosmetic ingredient can considerably improve the brightness of the skin and meanwhile reduce the area of ultraviolet spots, melanin and erythema over time.

Flower Extracts as Multifunctional Dyes in the Cosmetics Industry

Flowers are a natural source of bioactive compounds that not only have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties, but can also be used as natural dyes. For this reason, nowadays plants are widely used to produce natural cosmetics and foods. In these studies, the properties of the water extracts of Papaver rhoeas L., Punica granatum L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., and Gomphrena globosa L., as bioactive, natural dyes, were investigated. Plant flower extracts were tested for their antioxidant (ABTS and DPPH radical methods) and anti-inflammatory effects by determining the ability to inhibit the activity of lipoxygenase and proteinase. The extracts were tested for their cytotoxic effect on skin cells, using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests. The ability to inhibit the activity of enzymes responsible for the destruction of elastin and collagen was also studied. Research has shown that extracts have no toxic effect on skin cells, are a rich source of antioxidants and show the ability to inhibit the activity of elastase and collagenase enzymes. P. rhoeas extract showed the strongest antioxidant properties with IC50 value of 24.8 ± 0.42 µg/mL and 47.5 ± 1.01 µg/mL in ABTS and DPPH tests, respectively. The tested plants are also characterized by an anti-inflammatory property, for which the ability to inhibit lipoxygenase at a level above 80% and proteinase at the level of about 55% was noted. Extracts from P. rhoeas, C. ternatea, and C. tinctorius show the strongest coloring ability and can permanently dye cosmetic products, without significant color changes during the storage of the product.

Self-Assembling Drug Formulations with Tunable Permeability and Biodegradability

This review focuses on key topics in the field of drug delivery related to the design of nanocarriers answering the biomedicine criteria, including biocompatibility, biodegradability, low toxicity, and the ability to overcome biological barriers. For these reasons, much attention is paid to the amphiphile-based carriers composed of natural building blocks, lipids, and their structural analogues and synthetic surfactants that are capable of self-assembly with the formation of a variety of supramolecular aggregates. The latter are dynamic structures that can be used as nanocontainers for hydrophobic drugs to increase their solubility and bioavailability. In this section, biodegradable cationic surfactants bearing cleavable fragments are discussed, with ester- and carbamate-containing analogs, as well as amino acid derivatives received special attention. Drug delivery through the biological barriers is a challenging task, which is highlighted by the example of transdermal method of drug administration. In this paper, nonionic surfactants are primarily discussed, including their application for the fabrication of nanocarriers, their surfactant-skin interactions, the mechanisms of modulating their permeability, and the factors controlling drug encapsulation, release, and targeted delivery. Different types of nanocarriers are covered, including niosomes, transfersomes, invasomes and chitosomes, with their morphological specificity, beneficial characteristics and limitations discussed.

The beauty of biocatalysis: sustainable synthesis of ingredients in cosmetics

Covering: 2015 up to July 2021The market for cosmetics is consumer driven and the desire for green, sustainable and natural ingredients is increasing. The use of isolated enzymes and whole-cell organisms to synthesise these products is congruent with these values, especially when combined with the use of renewable, recyclable or waste feedstocks. The literature of biocatalysis for the synthesis of ingredients in cosmetics in the past five years is herein reviewed.

Phyllanthus emblica L. (amla) branch: A safe and effective ingredient against skin aging

BACKGROUND AND AIM

Skin aging influences the changes in skin, including skin dryness, wrinkle, and irregular pigmentation. Amla (Phyllanthus emblica L.) branch has shown several benefits, but not the anti-skin aging. The study aimed to evaluate the anti-skin aging efficacy of amla branch.

EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURE

Amla branches were standardized the phenolic acids. The extract was investigated anti-skin aging activities, including antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-melanogenesis, and matrix metalloproteinase-2 inhibitory assays. Topical gel containing extract was prepared and evaluated the skin irritation by a single closed patch test. Randomized, double-blind, placebo-control study was performed in 20 volunteers for 84 consecutive days. The tested skin was evaluated by Chromameter® CR 400, Dermalab® USB, Mexameter® MX 18, Corneometer® CM 825, and Visioscan® VC 98.

RESULTS

Amla branch extract, a dark brown powder, consisted a variety of phenolic acids, mainly sinapic and ferulic acids. The extract exhibited the potent antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory activities in vitro assays and the melanin suppression through inhibition of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-2 activities, the strong antioxidant, and the potent matrix metalloproteinase-2 in cellular assays at 0.1 mg/mL. Topical gel containing 0.1% extract was a stable and safe formulation. Clinical study was proved the superior anti-skin aging efficacy, including the lightening skin color, the enhanced skin elasticity and hydration, and the skin wrinkle reduction.

CONCLUSION

The study results suggested that amla branch is a rich source of bioactive compounds and can be a potential ingredient for utilization in anti-skin aging products.

Factors Affecting the Penetration of Niosome into the Skin, Their Laboratory Measurements and Dependency to the Niosome Composition: A Review

Skin, the most significant protective organ in the body, may face serious problems, including cancer, infectious diseases, etc., requiring different drugs for the treatment. However, most of these drugs have poor chemical and physical stability, and insufficient penetration through the skin layers. In recent years, with the development of nanotechnology, it has been possible to load a variety of drugs into nanocarriers, to effectively targeted drug delivery. The unique structure of niosome presents an effective novel drug delivery system with the ability to load both hydrophilic and lipophilic drugs, having many potential therapeutic applications including skin treatment. However, surveying and discussing these recent, rapidly growing reported studies, along with their theoretical principals, are required for the full understanding and exploring the great potential of this approach in skin diseases and cosmetic treatments. To this aim, an emphasis has been given to the factors affecting the penetration of niosome into the skin and their laboratory measurements and dependency on the niosome composition. In sum, longer tail surfactants for storing hydrophobic drugs and intracellular passing and surfactants with a large head group for penetrating hydrophilic drugs are more suitable. Cholesterol and oleic acid are commonly used lipids to gain more stability and permeability, respectively. The ionic component in the niosome interrupts cellular connectivity, thus making it more permeable, but it may cause relative cell toxicity. Herbal oils have been used in the structure to make the nanoparticles elastic and allow them to pass through pores without changing the size of the particles.

Recent Advances in Nanomaterials for Dermal and Transdermal Applications

The stratum corneum, the most superficial layer of the skin, protects the body against environmental hazards and presents a highly selective barrier for the passage of drugs and cosmetic products deeper into the skin and across the skin. Nanomaterials can effectively increase the permeation of active molecules across the stratum corneum and enable their penetration into deeper skin layers, often by interacting with the skin and creating the distinct sites with elevated local concentration, acting as reservoirs. The flux of the molecules from these reservoirs can be either limited to the underlying skin layers (for topical drug and cosmeceutical delivery) or extended across all the sublayers of the epidermis to the blood vessels of the dermis (for transdermal delivery). The type of the nanocarrier and the physicochemical nature of the active substance are among the factors that determine the final skin permeation pattern and the stability of the penetrant in the cutaneous environment. The most widely employed types of nanomaterials for dermal and transdermal applications include solid lipid nanoparticles, nanovesicular carriers, microemulsions, nanoemulsions, and polymeric nanoparticles. The recent advances in the area of nanomaterial-assisted dermal and transdermal delivery are highlighted in this review.

Self-assembled lipids for food applications: A review

Lipids play an important role in human nutrition. Several foodstuffs can be manufactured from the simple, compound and derived lipids. In particular, the use of self-assembled lipids (SLs, e.g. self-assembled L-α-lecithin) has brought great attention for the development of tailored, tuned and targeted colloidal structures loading degradation-sensitive substances with valuable antimicrobial, antioxidant and nutraceutical properties for food applications. For example, polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) and essential oils can be protected from degradation, thus improving their bioavailability in general terms in consumers. From a nanotechnological point of view, SLs allow the development of advanced and multifaceted architectures, in which each molecule of them are used as building blocks to obtain designed and ordered structures. It is important to note before beginning this review, that simple and compound lipids are the main SLs, while essential fatty acids and derived lipids in general have been considered by many research groups as the bulk loaded substances within several structures from self-assembled carbohydrates, proteins and lipids. However, this review paper is addressed on the analysis of the lipid-lipid self-assembly. Lipids can be self-assembled into various structures (micelles, vesicular systems, lyotropic liquid crystals, oleogels and films) to be used in different food applications: coatings, controlled and sustained release materials, emulsions, functional foods, etc. SLs can be obtained via non-covalent chemical interactions, primarily by hydrogen, hydrophilic and ionic bonding, which are influenced by the conditions of ionic strength, pH, temperature, among others. This manuscript aims to give an analysis of the specific state-of-the-art of SLs for food applications, based primarily on the literature reported in the past five years.

Citrus hystrix Extracts Protect Human Neuronal Cells against High Glucose-Induced Senescence

Citrus hystrix (CH) is a beneficial plant utilized in traditional folk medicine to relieve various health ailments. The antisenescent mechanisms of CH extracts were investigated using human neuroblastoma cells (SH-SY5Y). Phytochemical contents and antioxidant activities of CH extracts were analyzed using a gas chromatograph–mass spectrometer (GC-MS), 2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl-hydrate (DPPH) assay and 2,2′-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) (ABTS) assay. Effects of CH extracts on high glucose-induced cytotoxicity, reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation, cell cycle arrest and cell cycle-associated proteins were assessed using a 3-(4,5-Dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide tetrazolium (MTT) assay, non-fluorescent 2′, 7′-dichloro-dihydrofluorescein diacetate (H₂DCFDA) assay, flow cytometer and Western blot. The extracts protected neuronal senescence by inhibiting ROS generation. CH extracts induced cell cycle progression by releasing senescent cells from the G1 phase arrest. As the Western blot confirmed, the mechanism involved in cell cycle progression was associated with the downregulation of cyclin D1, phospho-cell division cycle 2 (pcdc2) and phospho-Retinoblastoma (pRb) proteins. Furthermore, the Western blot showed that extracts increased Surtuin 1 (SIRT1) expression by increasing the phosphorylation of Glyceraldehyde 3-phosphate dehydrogenase (GAPDH). Collectively, CH extracts could protect high glucose-induced human neuronal senescence by inducing cell cycle progression and up-regulation of SIRT1, thus leading to the improvement of the neuronal cell functions.

Biological evaluation of gallic acid and quercetin derived from Ceriops tagal: insights from extensive in vitro and in silico studies

Gallic acid (PubChem CID: 370) and quercetin (PubChem CID: 5280343) are major phenolic compounds in many mangrove plants that have been related to health cure. In the present study, the active fractions namely gallic acid (1) and quercetin (2) were isolated from the methanolic extract of leaves of Ceriops tagal in a Tropical mangrove ecosystem of Andaman and Nicobar Island (ANI), India. The chemical structures were determined by spectroscopic analysis: Fourier-Transform Infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), ¹H, ¹³C Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) spectroscopy, and High-resolution mass spectrometry (HRMS). The anticancer activity of isolated compounds (1) and (2) were evaluated by in vitro assays against two human cancer cell lines namely, HeLa (Cervical) and MDA-MB231 (Breast) cancer cells revealed that IC₅₀ values of gallic acid (HeLa: 4.179197 ± 0.45 µg/ml; MDA-MB231: 80.0427 ± 0.19 µg/ml at 24 h) and quercetin (HeLa: 99.914 ± 0.18 µg/ml; MDA-MB231: 18.288382 ± 0.12 µg/ml at 24 h), respectively. Antioxidant properties of gallic acid (1) and quercetin (2) are found to be IC₅₀ value of 0.77 ± 0.41 µg/ml and 1.897 ± 0.81 µg/ml, respectively. Molecular docking results explained that gallic acid (1) and quercetin (2) showed estimated binding free energy (ΔG) of -5.4 and -6.9 kcal/mol towards drug target Bcl-B protein, respectively. The estimated inhibition constant (Ki) for these two molecules are 110 and 8.75 μM, respectively. The MD simulation additionally supported that quercetin molecule is significantly improved the structural stability of Bcl-B protein. The present study provides key insights about the importance of polyphenols, and thus leads to open the therapeutic route for anti-cancer drug discovery process.Communicated by Ramaswamy H. Sarma.

Vitamin D3 Loaded Niosomes and Transfersomes Produced by Ethanol Injection Method: Identification of the Critical Preparation Step for Size Control

Vesicular nanocarriers have an important role in drug delivery and dietary supplements. Size control and optimization of encapsulation efficiency (EE) should be optimized for those applications. In this work, we report on the identification of the crucial step (injection, evaporation, or sonication) innanovesicles (transfersomes and niosomes) preparation by theethanol injection method (EI). The identification of each production step on the final vesicle size was analyzed in order to optimize further scale-up process. Results indicated that the final size of transfersomeswas clearly influenced by the sonication step while the final size of niosomes was mainly governed by the injection step. Measurements of final surface tension of the different vesicular systems prepared indicate a linear positive tendency with the vesicle size formed. This relation could help to better understand the process and design a vesicular size prediction model for EI. Vitamin D3 (VitD3) was encapsulated in the systems formulated with encapsulation efficiencies larger than 90%. Interaction between the encapsulated compound and the membrane layer components is crucial for vesicle stability. This work has an impact on the scaling-up production of vesicles for further food science applications.

Surface Active Agents and Their Health-Promoting Properties: Molecules of Multifunctional Significance

Surface active agents (SAAs) are molecules with the capacity to adsorb to solid surfaces and/or fluid interfaces, a property that allows them to act as multifunctional ingredients (e.g., wetting and dispersion agents, emulsifiers, foaming and anti-foaming agents, lubricants, etc.) in a widerange of the consumer products of various industrial sectors (e.g., pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, personal care, detergents, food, etc.). Given their widespread utilization, there is a continuously growing interest to explore their role in consumer products (relevant to promoting human health) and how such information can be utilized in order to synthesize better chemical derivatives. In this review article, weaimed to provide updated information on synthetic and biological (biosurfactants) SAAs and their health-promoting properties (e.g., anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, anti-viral, anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer and anti-aging) in an attempt to better define some of the underlying mechanism(s) by which they exert such properties.

A new formulation of hydrophobin-coated niosome as a drug carrier to cancer cells

Hydrophobin-1 (HFB-1) found on the surface of fungal spores, plays a role in the lack of antigen recognition by the host immune system. The present study aimed to evaluate the potential application of HFB-1 for the delivery of doxorubicin (Dox) into different cell lines. Coating the surface of niosomes (Nio) with HFB-1 leads to the hypothesis that this protein can confer protection against in vivo immune-system recognition and prevent the immune response. Thus, HFB-1 could become a promising alternative to polyethylene glycol (PEG). Here, HFB-1-coated niosome loaded with doxorubicin (Dox) based on Span 40, Tween 40 and cholesterol was prepared and compared with the PEG-coated niosome. Physicochemical characteristics of the prepared formulations in terms of size, zeta potential, polydispersity index (PDI), morphology, entrapment efficiency (EE), and release rate were evaluated at different pH levels (2, 5.2, and 7.4). In the end, the in vitro cytotoxicity assay was performed on four different cancer cell lines namely A549, MDA-MB-231, C6 and PC12 in addition to one control cell line (3 T3) to ensure the formulation's selectivity against cancer cells. Results showed that the niosomes coated with HFB-1 presented better size distribution, higher EE, more sustained release profile, enhanced biocompatibility and improved anticancer effects as compared to the PEG-coated niosomes. Interestingly, the viability percentage of the control cell line was higher than different cancer cells when treated with the formulations, which indicates the higher selectivity of the formulation against cancer cells. In conclusion, loading the niosomes with Dox and coating them with HFB-1 enhanced their efficacy and selectivity toward cancer cells, presenting a promising drug delivery system for sustained drug release in cancer treatment.

Au nanozyme-driven antioxidation for preventing frailty

From senescence and frailty that may result from various biological, mechanical, nutritional, and metabolic processes, the human body has its own antioxidant defense enzymes to remove by-products of oxygen metabolism, and if unregulated, can cause several types of cell damage. Herein, an antioxidant, artificial nanoscale enzyme, called nanozyme (NZs), is introduced that is composed of Au nanoparticles (NPs) synthesized with a mixture of two representative phytochemicals, namely, gallic acid (GA) and isoflavone (IF), referred to as GI-Au NZs. Their unique antioxidant and anti-aging effects are monitored using Cell Counting Kit-8 and senescence-associated β-galactosidase assays on neonatal human dermal fibroblasts (nHDFs). Furthermore, alterations in epidermal thickness and SOD activity are measured under ultraviolet light to investigate the effects of the topical application of NZs on the histological structure and antioxidant activity in hairless mice skin. Then, hepatotoxicity and nephrotoxicity in the hairless mice are monitored. It is concluded that the NZs can effectively prevent serial passage-induced senescence in nHDFs, as well as oxidative stress in mice skin, suggesting a range of strategies to further develop novel therapeutics for acute frailty.

Encapsulating plant ingredients for dermocosmetic application: an updated review of delivery systems and characterization techniques

Today, there is a rising demand and ongoing search for novel plant-derived phytochemicals in the cosmetic market owing to the growing consumer expectations worldwide for green and natural health products. Various plant ingredients, including polyphenols, oils, volatile oils, vitamins and other herbal extracts, have been extensively used in herbal cosmetics. Recent advances in encapsulation technologies have greatly improved their chemical stability, biocompatibility, skin permeability and dermocosmetic efficiency when applied topically. This comprehensive review summarizes the up-to-date information on encapsulated plant ingredients tailored for dermocosmetic application with a focus on the development of novel delivery systems. An overview of the commonly used techniques for carrier characterization, performance-related properties and toxicological evaluation is also included, which might provide guidance for researchers to select or develop appropriate assay systems.

Natural and Bioinspired Phenolic Compounds as Tyrosinase Inhibitors for the Treatment of Skin Hyperpigmentation: Recent Advances

One of the most common approaches for control of skin pigmentation involves the inhibition of tyrosinase, a copper-containing enzyme which catalyzes the key steps of melanogenesis. This review focuses on the tyrosinase inhibition properties of a series of natural and synthetic, bioinspired phenolic compounds that have appeared in the literature in the last five years. Both mushroom and human tyrosinase inhibitors have been considered. Among the first class, flavonoids, in particular chalcones, occupy a prominent role as natural inhibitors, followed by hydroxystilbenes (mainly resveratrol derivatives). A series of more complex phenolic compounds from a variety of sources, first of all belonging to the Moraceae family, have also been described as potent tyrosinase inhibitors. As to the synthetic compounds, hydroxycinnamic acids and chalcones again appear as the most exploited scaffolds. Several inhibition mechanisms have been reported for the described inhibitors, pointing to copper chelating and/or hydrophobic moieties as key structural requirements to achieve good inhibition properties. Emerging trends in the search for novel skin depigmenting agents, including the development of assays that could distinguish between inhibitors and potentially toxic substrates of the enzyme as well as of formulations aimed at improving the bioavailability and hence the effectiveness of well-known inhibitors, have also been addressed.

Preparation, physicochemical properties, in vitro evaluation and release behavior of cephalexin-loaded niosomes

In this study, optimized cephalexin-loaded niosomal formulations based on span 60 and tween 60 were prepared as a promising drug carrier system. The niosomal formulations were characterized using a series of techniques such as scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy, dynamic light scattering, and zeta potential measurement. The size and drug encapsulation efficiency are determined by the type and composition of surfactant. The developed niosomal formulations showed great storage stability up to 30 days with low change in size and drug entrapment during the storage, making them potential candidates for real applications. Moreover, the prepared niosomes showed negligible cytotoxicity for HepG2 cells, measured by MTT assay. The antibacterial properties of cephalexin-loaded niosome were investigated using S. aureus and E. coli as gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, respectively. The results showed that the encapsulation of antibiotic drug in niosomal formulation could enhance the antibacterial efficiency of the drug, where the minimum inhibitory concentration was droped from 8 µg/mL (cephalexin) to 4 µg/mL (cephalexin-loaded niosome) and from 4 µg/mL (cephalexin) to 1 µg/mL (cephalexin-loaded niosome) against E. coli and S. aureus, respectively. The findings of our study show that the improvement of cephalexin bioavailability and prolonged drug release profile could be obtained by niosomal formulation as a favorable antibiotic drug delivery system.