Ceramide liposomes for skin barrier recovery: A novel formulation based on natural skin lipids

Elevating Skincare Science: Grape Seed Extract Encapsulation for Dermatological Care

The skin is the largest organ in the human body and serves multiple functions such as barrier protection and thermoregulation. The maintenance of its integrity and healthy structure is of paramount importance. Accordingly, technological advances in cosmetic sciences have been directed towards optimizing these factors. Plant-derived ingredients have been explored for their bioactivity profiles and sustainable sources. Grape by-products contain a group of bioactive molecules that display important biological activities. Nonetheless, many of these molecules (e.g., phenolic compounds) are unstable and susceptible to degradation. So, their encapsulation using nano/microsystems (i.e., microdispersions) has been explored as a promising solution. In this work, two grape seed extracts were obtained, one from a single grape variety (GSE-Ov) and another from a mix of five grape varieties (GSE-Sv). These extracts were analysed for their antioxidant and antimicrobial activities, as well as their chemical composition and molecular structure. The extract that showed the most promising properties was GSE-Ov with a DPPH IC50 of 0.079 mg mL-1. This extract was encapsulated in soy lecithin microdispersions coated with pectin, with an encapsulation efficiency of 88.8%. They showed an in vitro release of polyphenols of 59.4% during 24 h. The particles displayed a zeta potential of -20.3 mV and an average diameter of 13.6 µm. Microdispersions proved to be safe under 5 and 2.5 mg mL-1 in HaCaT and HDF cell models, respectively. Additionally, they demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity against IL-1α when tested at 2 mg mL-1. This work enabled the valorisation of a by-product from the wine industry by using natural extracts in skincare products.

Ionic Liquid-Based Immunization Patch for the Transdermal Delivery of Antigens

Herein, we report a transdermal patch prepared using an ionic liquid-based solid in oil (IL-S/O) nanodispersion and a pressure-sensitive adhesive (PSA) to deliver the macromolecular antigenic protein, ovalbumin (OVA). The IL-S/O nanodispersion and a PSA were first mixed at an equal weight ratio, then coated onto a release liner, and covered with a support film. To evaluate the effect of the PSA, three types of PSAs, DURO-TAK 87-4098, DURO-TAK 87-4287, and DURO-TAK 87-235A, were used to obtain the corresponding IL-S/O patches SP-4098, SP-4287, and SP-235A, respectively. The prepared IL-S/O patches were characterized for surface morphology, viscoelasticity, and moisture content. In vitro skin penetration and in vivo immunization studies of the IL-S/O patches were performed using Yucatan micropig skin and the C57BL/6NJc1 mice model, respectively. The SP-4098 and SP-4287 delivered 5.49-fold and 5.47-fold higher amounts of drug compared with the aqueous formulation. Although both patches delivered a similar amount of drug, SP-4287 was not detached fully from the release liner after 30 days, indicating low stability. Mice immunized with the OVA-containing SP-4098 produced a 10-fold increase in anti-OVA IgG compared with those treated with an aqueous formulation. These findings suggested that the IL-S/O patch may be a good platform for the transdermal delivery of antigen molecules.

Naringenin-Zinc Oxide Nanocomposites Amalgamated Polymeric Gel Augmented Drug Delivery and Attenuated Experimental Cutaneous Candidiasis in Balb/c Mice: In Vitro and In Vivo Studies

Naringenin (NRG) inhibits the fungal 17β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase accountable for ergosterol synthesis in Candida albicans (C. albicans), a causative agent for cutaneous candidiasis. In present research, NRG was complexed with ZnO nanomaterial (NRG-Zn2+) to synthesize NRG-Zn2+ nanocomposites. The particle size and ζ-potential of NRG-Zn2+ nanocomposites were respectively estimated to be 180.33 ± 1.22-nm and - 3.92 ± 0.35-mV. In silico data predicted the greater affinity of NRG-Zn2+ nanocomposite for 14α-demethylase and ceramide in comparison to NRG alone. Later, NRG-Zn2+ nanocomposites solution was transformed in to naringenin-zinc oxide nanocomposites loaded chitosan gel (NRG-Zn-CS-Gel) with viscosity and firmness of 854806.7 ± 52386.43 cP and 698.27 ± 10.35 g, respectively. The ex-vivo skin permeation demonstrated 70.49 ± 5.22% skin retention, significantly greater (P < 0.05) than 44.48 ± 3.06% of naringenin loaded chitosan gel (NRG-CS-Gel) and 31.24 ± 3.28% of naringenin solution (NRG Solution). NRG-Zn-CS-Gel demonstrated 6.71 ± 0.84% permeation of NRG with a flux value of 0.046 ± 0.01-µg/cm2/h. The MIC50 of NRG-Zn-CS-Gel against C. albicans was estimated to be 0.156-µg/mL with FICI (fractional inhibitory concentration index) of 0.018 that consequently exhibited synergistic efficacy. Further, NRG-Zn-CS-Gel demonstrated superior antifungal efficacy in C. albicans induced cutaneous candidiasis infection in Balb/c mice. The fungal burden in NRG-Zn-CS-Gel treated group was 109 ± 25 CFU/mL, significantly lower (P < 0.05) than positive control (2260 ± 446 CFU/mL), naringenin loaded chitosan gel (NRG-CS-Gel; 928 ± 127 CFU/mL) and chitosan gel (CS-Gel; 2116 ± 186 CFU/mL) treated mice. Further, histopathology examination and cytokine profiling of TNF-α, IL-1β and IL-10 revealed the healing of skin and inflammation associated with cutaneous candidiasis infection. In conclusion, NRG-Zn-CS-Gel may be a potential candidate for translating in to a clinical viable topical nanotherapeutic.

Nanoformulations for dermal delivery of imiquimod: The race of "soft" against "hard"

Imiquimod (IMQ) is an immunostimulating agent used in the treatment of basal cell carcinoma and actinic keratosis. Due to its low solubility and poor skin bioavailability, the dermal formulation of IMQ remains challenging. In analogy to tyre compounds used in Formula 1 racing, we compare four types of nanosystems belonging to three groups: (i) "hard" nanoparticles in the form of IMQ nanocrystals, (ii) "intermediate" nanoparticles in the form of liposomes and lipid nanocapsules, and (iii) "soft" nanoparticles in the form of a nanoemulsion based on oleic acid. The nanoemulsion and nanocrystals were able to incorporate the highest amount of IMQ (at least 2 wt%) compared to liposomes (0.03 wt%) and lipid nanocapsules (0.08 wt%). Regarding size, liposomes, and lipid nanocapsules were rather small (around 40 nm) whereas nanocrystals and nanoemulsion were larger (around 200 nm). All developed nanoformulations showed high efficiency to deliver IMQ into the skin tissue without undesirable subsequent permeation through the skin to acceptor. Especially, the 2 wt% IMQ nanoemulsion accumulated 129 μg/g IMQ in the skin, compared to 34 μg/g of a 5 wt% commercial cream. The effects of the respective nanoparticulate systems were discussed with respect to their possible diffusion kinetics (Brownian motion vs. settling) in the aqueous phase.

Synthesis and self-assembling of hyaluronan grafted with ceramide NP for topical drug delivery

In this work, amphiphilic hyaluronan was synthesized by grafting succinylated N-oleoyl-phytosphingosine via esters bonds. Succinylated N-oleoyl-phytosphingosine (sCER) was first prepared by esterification of hydroxyl moieties of the ceramide with succinic anhydride. The esterification of hyaluronan was governed by crowding effect. The oligomeric HA-sCER derivatives exhibited a strong self-aggregation as evidenced by a very low critical aggregation concentration (1.9 μg mL-1), higher pyrene binding constant (KB), and the smallest particle size (30 nm) in solution. The self-aggregation properties demonstrated to be a function of the substitution degree and molecular weight of HA. The prepared derivatives were non-cytotoxic towards cell lines NIH-3T3. Nanoparticles prepared using oligomeric HA-sCER derivatives improved the penetration of Nile red dye through the stratum corneum due to their smaller size (≤50 nm). The fluorescence intensity localized at the stratum corneum was higher for oligomeric HA-sCER. A significant inhibition of the pro-inflammatory cytokine interleukin-6 production was observed in vitro in macrophages differentiated from THP-1 cells. These findings showed that HA-sCER constituted a promising active ingredient for cosmetics use.

Permeation Protection by Waterproofing Mucosal Membranes

The permeability of the oral or nasal mucosa is higher than that of the skin. Mucosa permeability depends mainly on the thickness and keratinization degree of the tissues. Their permeability barrier is conditioned by the presence of certain lipids. This work has the main aim of reinforcing the barrier effect of oral mucosa with a series of formulations to reduce permeation. Transmembrane water loss of different formulations was evaluated, and three of them were selected to be tested on the sublingual mucosa permeation of drugs. Caffeine, ibuprofen, dexamethasone, and ivermectin were applied on porcine skin, mucosa, and modified mucosa in order to compare the effectiveness of the formulations. A similar permeation profile was obtained in the different membranes: caffeine > ibuprofen~dexamethasone > ivermectin. The most efficient formulation was a liposomal formulation composed of lipids that are present in the skin stratum corneum. Impermeability provided by this formulation was notable mainly for the low-molecular-weight compounds, decreasing their permeability coefficient by between 40 and 80%. The reinforcement of the barrier function of mucosa provides a reduction or prevention of the permeation of different actives, which could be extrapolated to toxic compounds such as viruses, contaminants, toxins, etc.

Computational Prodrug Design Methodology for Liposome Formulability Enhancement of Small-Molecule APIs

Encapsulation into liposomes is a formulation strategy that can improve efficacy and reduce side effects of active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) that exhibit poor biodistribution or pharmacokinetics when administered alone. However, many APIs are unsuitable for liposomal formulations intended for parenteral administration due to their inherent physicochemical properties─lipid bilayer permeability and water-lipid equilibrium partitioning coefficient. Too high permeability results in premature leakage from liposomes, while too low permeability means the API is not able to pass across biological barriers. There are several options for solving this issue: (i) change of the lipid bilayer composition, (ii) addition of a permeability enhancer, or (iii) modification of the chemical structure of the API to design a prodrug. The latter approach was taken in the present work, and the effect of small changes in the molecular structure of the API on its permeation rate across a lipidic bilayer was systematically explored utilizing computer simulations. An in silico methodology for prodrug design based on the COSMOperm approach has been proposed and applied to four APIs (abiraterone, cytarabine, 5-fluorouracil, and paliperidone). It is shown that the addition of aliphatic hydrocarbon chains via ester or amide bonds can render the molecule more lipophilic and increase its permeability by approximately 1 order of magnitude for each 2 carbon atoms added, while the formation of fructose adducts can provide a more hydrophilic character to the molecule and reduce its lipid partitioning. While partitioning was found to depend only on the size and type of the added group, permeability was found to depend also on the added group location. Overall, it has been shown that both permeability and lipid partitioning coefficient can be systematically shifted into the desired liposome formulability window by appropriate group contributions to the parental drug. This can significantly increase the portfolio of APIs for which liposome or lipid nanoparticle formulations become feasible.

Role of Omega-Hydroxy Ceramides in Epidermis: Biosynthesis, Barrier Integrity and Analyzing Method

Attached to the outer surface of the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE), omega-hydroxy ceramides (ω-OH-Cer) link to involucrin and function as lipid components of the stratum corneum (SC). The integrity of the skin barrier is highly dependent on the lipid components of SC, especially on ω-OH-Cer. Synthetic ω-OH-Cer supplementation has been utilized in clinical practice for epidermal barrier injury and related surgeries. However, the mechanism discussion and analyzing methods are not keeping pace with its clinical application. Though mass spectrometry (MS) is the primary choice for biomolecular analysis, method modifications for ω-OH-Cer identification are lacking in progress. Therefore, finding conclusions on ω-OH-Cer biological function, as well as on its identification, means it is vital to remind further researchers of how the following work should be done. This review summarizes the important role of ω-OH-Cer in epidermal barrier functions and the forming mechanism of ω-OH-Cer. Recent identification methods for ω-OH-Cer are also discussed, which could provide new inspirations for study on both ω-OH-Cer and skin care development.

Current insights into skin lipids and their roles in cutaneous health and disease

PURPOSE OF REVIEW

The unique and complex array of cutaneous lipids include essential components of the skin structure and signalling molecules mediating homeostasis and inflammation. Understanding skin lipid biology and metabolism can support our comprehension of health and disease, including systemic conditions with cutaneous involvement.

RECENT FINDINGS

Lipids found on the skin surface, produced by both the host and resident microbes, maintain and regulate the skin microbiome and the epidermal barrier, whilst altered contributions from either source can be detrimental to skin health. The unique lipid composition of the epidermal barrier is essential for its function, and recent studies have expanded our understanding of epidermal ceramide production. This has been supported by improved models available for skin research, including organotypic skin models enabling in-vitro production of complex acylceramides for the first time, and model systems facilitating in-silico exploration of the lipid profile changes observed in clinical samples. Studies have revealed further involvement of lipid mediators such as eicosanoids in cutaneous inflammation, as well as immune regulation in both healthy and diseased skin.

SUMMARY

Skin lipids offer exciting opportunities as therapeutic targets for many conditions, whether through topical interventions or nutritional supplementation.

The Contest of Nanoparticles: Searching for the Most Effective Topical Delivery of Corticosteroids

Owing to their complicated pathophysiology, the treatment of skin diseases necessitates a complex approach. Conventional treatment using topical corticosteroids often results in low effectiveness and the incidence of local or even systemic side effects. Nanoformulation of potent anti-inflammatory drugs has been selected as an optimal strategy for enhanced topical delivery of corticosteroids. In order to assess the efficiency of various nanoformulations, we formulated hydrocortisone (HC) and hydrocortisone-17-butyrate (HCB) into three different systems: lipid nanocapsules (LNC), polymeric nanoparticles (PNP), and ethosomes (ETZ). The systems were characterized using dynamic light scattering for their particle size and uniformity and the morphology of nanoparticles was observed by transmission electron microscopy. The nanosystems were tested using ex vivo full thickness porcine and human skin for the delivery of HC and HCB. The skin penetration was observed by confocal microscopy of fluorescently labelled nanosystems. ETZ were proposed as the most effective delivery system for both transdermal and dermal drug targeting but were also found to have a profound effect on the skin barrier with limited restoration. LNC and PNP were found to have significant effects in the dermal delivery of the actives with only minimal transdermal penetration, especially in case of HCB administration.

Topically applied lipid-containing emulsions based on PEGylated emulsifiers: Formulation, characterization, and evaluation of their impact on skin properties ex vivo and in vivo

PEGylated emulsifiers have been largely used in topical formulations for skin research. They have been a continuous study focus in our group as well. According to our previous studies, severe interruptions of the skin barrier were observed with certain types of emulsifiers. To restore the skin barrier function and counteract the effects of emulsifiers, we considered topically delivering lipids into the lipid matrix of the SC. Herein, PEG-20 cetyl ether (C20) -based oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions were developed owing to the stronger interactions of C20 with skin. The lipids containing ceramides (Cers), palmitic acids (PA), and cholesterol with different ratios and combinations were merged into the base emulsion. PEG-40 stearyl ether (S40)-based emulsion was used as a reference as S40 showed negligible impact on SC lipids. The evaluations were conducted ex vivo with confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) regarding the SC lipid, SC thickness, and skin penetration properties. In parallel, the in vivo irritation studies were also implemented including the transepidermal-water-loss (TEWL), skin hydration, and erythema index. The results indicated less SC lipid extraction of topically delivered lipids on ex vivo porcine skin with the addition and ratio of incorporated Cers influencing the extent of formulations counteracting the skin interruption by C20. The ex vivo penetration study showed a similar trend in drug penetration depths. In regards to the in vivo studies, TEWL was demonstrated to be suitable for differentiating the impact on skin barrier properties. The in vivo observations were generally correlated with the ex vivo results. The exact findings in this research can lead us to a better selection of applied lipid components and compositions. Future research will elucidate which type of Cer was predominantly extracted by C20, advancing future formulation development.

Transdermal Delivery of Antigenic Protein Using Ionic Liquid-Based Nanocarriers for Tumor Immunotherapy

Transdermal drug delivery systems (TDDSs) may be useful for preventing various diseases including cancer. However, the stratum corneum (SC) inhibits the permeation of foreign particles into the skin. To obtain an effective TDDS, we developed a protein-containing nanocarrier (PCNC) comprising an antigenic protein (ovalbumin/OVA) stabilized by a combination of surfactants, i.e., a lipid-based surface-active ionic liquid and Tween-80. The PCNC was lyophilized to remove water and cyclohexane and then dispersed in isopropyl myristate. It is biocompatible both in vitro and in vivo, and is suitable for use in a therapeutic TDDS. The skin permeability of the PCNC was significantly (p < 0.0001) enhanced, and the transdermal distribution and transdermal flux of the OVA delivery system were 25 and 28 times greater, respectively, than those of its aqueous formulation. The PCNC disrupted the order of lipid orientation in the skin's SC and increased intercellular protein delivery. It demonstrated effective antitumor activity, drastically (p < 0.001) suppressed tumor growth, increased mouse survival rates, and significantly (p < 0.001) stimulated the OVA-specific tumor immune response. The PCNC also increased the number of cytotoxic T cells expressing CD8 antibodies on their surfaces (CD8 + T-cells) in the tumor microenvironment. These findings suggest that PCNCs may be promising biocompatible carriers for transdermal antigenic protein delivery in tumor immunotherapy.

Mechanisms of Penetration Enhancement and Transport Utilizing Skin Keratine Liposomes for the Topical Delivery of Licochalcone A

Keratin liposomes have emerged as a useful topical drug delivery system given theirenhanced ability to penetrate the skin, making them ideal as topical drug vehicles. However, the mechanisms of the drug penetration enhancement of keratin liposomes have not been clearly elucidated. Therefore, licochalcone A(LA)-loaded skin keratin liposomes (LALs) were prepared to investigate their mechanisms of penetration enhancement on the skin and inB16F10 cells. Skin deposition studies, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), attenuated total reflection-Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR), and skin distribution and intracellular distribution studies were carried out to demonstrate the drug enhancement mechanisms of LALs. We found that the optimal application of LALs enhanced drug permeation via alterations in the components, structure, and thermodynamic properties of the stratum corneum (SC), that is, by enhancing the lipid fluidization, altering the skin keratin, and changing the thermodynamic properties of the SC. Moreover, hair follicles were the main penetration pathways for the LA delivery, which occurred in a time-dependent manner. In the B16F10 cells, the skin keratin liposomes effectively delivered LA into the cytoplasm without cytotoxicity. Thus, LAL nanoparticles are promising topical drug delivery systems for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications.

Cerosomes as skin repairing agent: Mode of action studies with a model stratum corneum layer at liquid/air and liquid/solid interfaces

The stratum corneum (SC) is the largest physical barrier of the human body. It protects against physical, chemical and biological damages, and avoids evaporation of water from the deepest skin layers. For its correct functioning, the homeostasis of the SC lipid matrix is fundamental. An alteration of the lipid matrix composition and in particular of its ceramide (CER) fraction can lead to the development of pathologies such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Different studies showed that the direct replenishment of SC lipids on damaged skin had positive effects on the recovery of its barrier properties. In this work, cerosomes, i.e. liposomes composed of SC lipids, have been successfully prepared in order to investigate the mechanism of interaction with a model SC lipid matrix. The cerosomes contain CER[NP], D-CER[AP], stearic acid and cholesterol. In addition, hydrogenated soybean phospholipids have been added to one of the formulations leading to an increased stability at neutral pH. For the mode of action studies, monolayer models at the air-water interface and on solid support have been deployed. The results indicated that a strong interaction occurred between SC monolayers and the cerosomes. Since both systems were negatively charged, the driving force for the interaction must be based on the ability of CERs head groups to establish intermolecular hydrogen bonding networks that energetically prevailed against the electrostatic repulsion. This work proved for the first time the mode of action by which cerosomes exploit their function as skin barrier repairing agents on the SC.

N-Alkylmorpholines: Potent Dermal and Transdermal Skin Permeation Enhancers

Transdermal drug delivery is an attractive non-invasive method offering numerous advantages over the conventional routes of administration. The main obstacle to drug transport is, however, the powerful skin barrier that needs to be modulated, for example, by transdermal permeation enhancers. Unfortunately, there are still only a few enhancers showing optimum properties including low toxicity and reversibility of enhancing effects. For this reason, we investigated a series of new N-alkylmorpholines with various side chains as potential enhancers in an in vitro permeation study, using three model permeants (theophylline, indomethacin, diclofenac). Moreover, electrical impedance, transepidermal water loss, cellular toxicity and infrared spectroscopy measurements were applied to assess the effect of enhancers on skin integrity, reversibility, toxicity and enhancers' mode of action, respectively. Our results showed a bell-shaped relationship between the enhancing activity and the hydrocarbon chain length of the N-alkylmorpholines, with the most efficient derivatives having 10-14 carbons for both transdermal and dermal delivery. These structures were even more potent than the unsaturated oleyl derivative. The best results were obtained for indomethacin, where particularly the C10-14 derivatives showed significantly stronger effects than the traditional enhancer Azone. Further experiments revealed reversibility in the enhancing effect, acceptable toxicity and a mode of action based predominantly on interactions with stratum corneum lipids.

In Vitro Modeling of Skin Barrier Disruption and its Recovery by Ceramide-Based Formulations

Disrupted skin barrier, one of the severe attributes of inflammatory skin diseases, is caused by lower content and pathological changes of lipids in the uppermost skin layer-stratum corneum (SC). Restoring skin barrier with native skin lipids, especially ceramides (Cers), appears to be a promising therapy with minimum side effects. For testing the efficiency of these formulations, suitable in vitro models of the skin with disrupted barriers are needed. For the similarity with the human tissue, our models were based on the pig ear skin. Three different ways of skin barrier disruption were tested and compared: tape stripping, lipid extraction with organic solvents, and barrier disruption by sodium lauryl sulfate. The level of barrier disruption was investigated by permeation studies, and parameters of each method were modified to reach significant changes between the non-disrupted skin and our model. Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy was employed to elucidate the changes of the skin permeability on the molecular scale. Further, the potential of the developed models to be restored by skin barrier repairing agents was evaluated by the same techniques. We observed a significant decrease in permeation characteristics through our in vitro models treated with the lipid mixtures compared to the untreated damaged skin, which implied that the skin barrier was substantially restored. Taken together, the results suggest that our in vitro models are suitable for the screening of potential barrier repairing agents.

Performance of Oleic Acid and Soybean Oil in the Preparation of Oil-in-Water Microemulsions for Encapsulating a Highly Hydrophobic Molecule

This work analyzes the dispersion of a highly hydrophobic molecule, (9Z)-N-(1,3-dihydroxyoctadecan-2-yl)octadec-9-enamide (ceramide-like molecule), with cosmetic and pharmaceutical interest, by exploiting oil-in-water microemulsions. Two different oils, oleic acid and soybean oil, were tested as an oil phase while mixtures of laureth-5-carboxylic acid (Akypo) and 2-propanol were used for the stabilization of the dispersions. This allowed us to obtain stable aqueous-based formulations with a relatively reduced content of oily phase (around 3% w/w), that may enhance the bioavailability of this molecule by its solubilization in nanometric oil droplets (with a size range of 30–80 nm), that allow the incorporation of a ceramide-like molecule of up to 3% w/w, to remain stable for more than a year. The nanometric size of the droplet containing the active ingredient and the stability of the formulations provide the basis for evaluating the efficiency of microemulsions in preparing formulations to enhance the distribution and availability of ceramide-like molecules, helping to reach targets in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations.

The Pathogenic and Therapeutic Implications of Ceramide Abnormalities in Atopic Dermatitis

Ceramides play an essential role in forming a permeability barrier in the skin. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common chronic skin disease associated with skin barrier dysfunction and immunological abnormalities. In patients with AD, the amount and composition of ceramides in the stratum corneum are altered. This suggests that ceramide abnormalities are involved in the pathogenesis of AD. The mechanism underlying lipid abnormalities in AD has not yet been fully elucidated, but the involvement of Th2 and Th1 cytokines is implicated. Ceramide-dominant emollients have beneficial effects on skin barrier function; thus, they have been approved as an adjunctive barrier repair agent for AD. This review summarizes the current understanding of the mechanisms of ceramide abnormalities in AD. Furthermore, the potential therapeutic approaches for correcting ceramide abnormalities in AD are discussed.

The emerging role of nanotechnology in skincare

The role of cosmetic products is rapidly evolving in our society, with their use increasingly seen as an essential contribution to personal wellness. This suggests the necessity of a detailed elucidation of the use of nanoparticles (NPs) in cosmetics. The aim of the present work is to offer a critical and comprehensive review discussing the impact of exploiting nanomaterials in advanced cosmetic formulations, emphasizing the beneficial effects of their extensive use in next-generation products despite a persisting prejudice around the application of nanotechnology in cosmetics. The discussion here includes an interpretation of the data underlying generic information reported on the product labels of formulations already available in the marketplace, information that often lacks details identifying specific components of the product, especially when nanomaterials are employed. The emphasis of this review is mainly focused on skincare because it is believed to be the cosmetics market sector in which the impact of nanotechnology is being seen most significantly. To date, nanotechnology has been demonstrated to improve the performance of cosmetics in a number of different ways: 1) increasing both the entrapment efficiency and dermal penetration of the active ingredient, 2) controlling drug release, 3) enhancing physical stability, 4) improving moisturizing power, and 5) providing better UV protection. Specific attention is paid to the effect of nanoparticles contained in semisolid formulations on skin penetration issues. In light of the emerging concerns about nanoparticle toxicity, an entire section has been devoted to listing detailed examples of nanocosmetic products for which safety has been investigated.

Co-delivery of methotrexate and nicotinamide by cerosomes for topical psoriasis treatment with enhanced efficacy

Psoriasis is an immune-mediated skin disorder that affects populations worldwide. Methotrexate (MTX) is a cytotoxic drug with powerful anti-proliferative and anti-inflammatory effects that has gained prominence in treating inflammatory diseases including psoriasis. However, low solubility and side effects through oral administration hinder its systemic application. In this study, we developed a novel niosomes based on ceramide (cerosomes) to co-deliver MTX and nicotinamide (NIC), i.e., MTX/NIC cerosomes, for topically treating psoriasis with the aim to enhancing the efficacy and reducing the toxicity. NIC significantly solublized MTX by forming hydrogen bonds with MTX. In vitro and in vivo permeation studies showed that the cerosomes significantly promoted drug permeation through and retention in the skin, and the enhancing mechanism was clarified by Fourier transform infraredand Raman spectroscopy. MTX/NIC cerosomes exhibited strong anti-proliferation effect on lipopolysaccharide- irritated HaCaT cells by arresting the cell cycle at S phase and inducing apoptosis. Importantly, compared to MTX oral administration, topical application of MTX/NIC cerosomes on imiquimod (IMQ)-induced psoriatic mouse model exhibited a superior performance in ameliorating skin lesions, reducing spleen index and epidermal thickness, and downregulating the mRNA expression levels of proinflammatory cytokines including TNFα, IL-23, IL-17A, IL-6, IL-1β, and IL-22. Taken together, MTX/NIC cerosomes is a promising approach for psoriasis topical treatment.