In vivo confocal Raman microscopic determination of depth profiles of the stratum corneum lipid organization influenced by application of various oils

Confocal Raman spectroscopy coupled with in vitro permeation testing to study the effects of formalin fixation on the skin barrier function of reconstructed human epidermis

Confocal Raman Spectroscopy is recognised as a potent tool for molecular characterisation of biological specimens. There is a growing demand for In Vitro Permeation Tests (IVPT) in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic areas, increasingly conducted using Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) skin models. In this study, chemical fixation of RHE in 10 % Neutral Buffered Formalin for 24 h has been examined for storing RHE samples at 4 °C for up to 21 days. Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS), combined with Principal Components Analysis, revealed the molecular-level effects of fixation, notably in protein and lipid conformation within the stratum corneum and viable epidermis. IVPT by means of high-performance liquid chromatography, using caffeine as a model compound, showed minimal impact of formalin fixation on the cumulative amount, flux, and permeability coefficient after 12 h. While the biochemical architecture is altered, the function of the model as a barrier to maintain rate-limiting diffusion of active molecules within skin layers remains intact. This study opens avenues for enhanced flexibility and utility in skin model research, promising insights into mitigating the limited shelf life of RHE models by preserving performance in fixed samples for up to 21 days.

Effect of Penetration Enhancer on the Structure of Stratum Corneum: On-Site Study by Confocal Polarized Raman Imaging

Keratin and lipid structures in the stratum corneum (SC) are closely related to the SC barrier function. The application of penetration enhancers (PEs) disrupts the structure of SC, thereby promoting infiltration. To quantify these PE-induced structural changes in SC, we used confocal Raman imaging (CRI) and polarized Raman imaging (PRI) to explore the integrity and continuity of keratin and lipid structures in SC. The results showed that water is the safest PE and that oleic acid (OA), sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), and low molecular weight protamine (LMWP) disrupted the ordered structure of keratin, while azone and liposomes had less of an effect on keratin. Azone, OA, and SDS also led to significant changes in lipid structure, while LMWP and liposomes had less of an effect. Establishing this non-invasive and efficient strategy will provide new insights into transdermal drug delivery and skin health management.

Quantification of skin penetration of caffeine and propylene glycol applied topically in a mixture by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares of depth-resolved Raman spectra

The quantitative determination of topically applied substances in the skin is severely limited and represents a challenging task. The porcine skin ex vivo was topically treated with a gel containing caffeine (CF) and propylene glycol (PG), and depth-resolved Raman spectra were recorded with two confocal Raman microscopes. We applied a novel tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares method to the selected spectral regions (512-604 and 778-1148 cm-1 ) of gel-treated skin and quantitatively determined the concentrations of CF and PG in the stratum corneum (SC). The highest concentration of CF (181 mg/cm3 ) was found at the surface, while PG (384 mg/cm3 ) was found at 10% SC depth, indicating the formation of a reservoir at the superficial SC. The concentrations of CF and PG decreased monotonically and reached the detection limit at ≈60% and ≈80% SC depth, respectively, indicating that neither permeate the SC.

Strat-M® positioning for skin permeation studies: A comparative study including EpiSkin® RHE, and human skin

In the development and optimization of dermatological products, In Vitro Permeation Testing (IVPT) is pivotal for controlled study of skin penetration. To enhance standardization and replicate human skin properties reconstructed human skin and synthetic membranes are explored as alternatives. Strat-M® is a membrane designed to mimic the multi-layered structure of human skin for IVPT. For instance, in Strat-M®, the steady-state fluxes (JSS) of resorcinol in formulations free of permeation enhancers were found to be 41 ± 5 µg/cm2·h for the aqueous solution, 42 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the hydrogel, and 40 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the oil-in-water emulsion. These results were closer to excised human skin (5 ± 3, 9 ± 2, 13 ± 6 µg/cm2·h) and surpassed the performance of EpiSkin® RHE (138 ± 5, 142 ± 6, and 162 ± 11 µg/cm2·h). While mass spectrometry and Raman microscopy demonstrated the qualitative molecular similarity of EpiSkin® RHE to human skin, it was the porous and hydrophobic polymer nature of Strat-M® that more faithfully reproduced the skin's diffusion-limiting barrier. Further validation through similarity factor analysis (∼80-85%) underscored Strat-M®'s significance as a reliable substitute for human skin, offering a promising approach to enhance realism and reproducibility in dermatological product development.

Optical Methods for Non-Invasive Determination of Skin Penetration: Current Trends, Advances, Possibilities, Prospects, and Translation into In Vivo Human Studies

Information on the penetration depth, pathways, metabolization, storage of vehicles, active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), and functional cosmetic ingredients (FCIs) of topically applied formulations or contaminants (substances) in skin is of great importance for understanding their interaction with skin targets, treatment efficacy, and risk assessment-a challenging task in dermatology, cosmetology, and pharmacy. Non-invasive methods for the qualitative and quantitative visualization of substances in skin in vivo are favored and limited to optical imaging and spectroscopic methods such as fluorescence/reflectance confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM); two-photon tomography (2PT) combined with autofluorescence (2PT-AF), fluorescence lifetime imaging (2PT-FLIM), second-harmonic generation (SHG), coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS), and reflectance confocal microscopy (2PT-RCM); three-photon tomography (3PT); confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy (CRM); surface-enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) micro-spectroscopy; stimulated Raman scattering (SRS) microscopy; and optical coherence tomography (OCT). This review summarizes the state of the art in the use of the CLSM, 2PT, 3PT, CRM, SERS, SRS, and OCT optical methods to study skin penetration in vivo non-invasively (302 references). The advantages, limitations, possibilities, and prospects of the reviewed optical methods are comprehensively discussed. The ex vivo studies discussed are potentially translatable into in vivo measurements. The requirements for the optical properties of substances to determine their penetration into skin by certain methods are highlighted.

Topical dexpanthenol effects on physiological parameters of the stratum corneum by Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

BACKGROUND

Topical use of dexpanthenol presents well-established moisturizing properties and maintenance and repair of the skin barrier function, however, its exact action mechanisms are not completely elucidated. In this context, Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy is an optical method that enables non-invasive and non-destructive in vivo analysis with the sensitive acquisition of molecular changes in different skin layers. Herein, the aim was to evaluate the effects of topical dexpanthenol on the components and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Ten healthy female subjects underwent skin evaluation by means of a Confocal Raman Spectrometer Skin Analyzer 3510. Spectral data were obtained from the skin of the anterior forearm region, before and 2 h after applying a cosmetic formulation containing or not containing 5% dexpanthenol.

RESULTS

Semiquantitative analysis of the natural moisturizing factor showed a significant decrease in content after 2 h of topical dexpanthenol application, while the analysis of the lamellar organization of intercellular lipids and the secondary structure of keratin showed a significant increase in hexagonal organization of lipids at the first half of the SC and a significant increase in β-pleated sheet conformation of keratin.

CONCLUSION

Effects of topical dexpanthenol on SC suggest a contribution in increasing fluidity of both lipidic and protein components of the SC and are compatible with dexpanthenol activity in maintaining adequate physiological conditions and preventing transepidermal water loss. This study also contributes to the elucidation of action mechanisms and other concurrent biochemical processes.

Quantitative determination of concentration profiles of skin components and topically applied oils by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares using in vivo confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

The main components of the stratum corneum (SC), water, lipids, and proteins, are non-homogeneously distributed throughout the depth. The quantitative determination of their concentration profiles and penetration depth of topically applied substances are urgent topics of dermatological and cosmetic research. Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy has distinct advantages when determining semi-quantitative concentrations of SC components and topically applied substances non-invasively and in vivo. In this work, we applied a tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (tMCR-ALS) method to analyze Raman spectra of the SC in the 2000-4000 cm-1 region for quantitatively determining the concentrations of water, lipids, proteins, and topically applied oils using substance-related spectral loadings which were allowed to change depth-dependently from the SC's surface toward its bottom. tMCR-ALS makes matching of depth-dependent signal attenuation, that is, the normalization on keratin, unnecessary and requires only a few additional experiments for calibration - Raman spectra of the pure materials and their densities.

Cosmetic Formulations with Melaleuca alternifolia Essential Oil for the Improvement of Photoaged Skin: A Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study

This aim of this study was to evaluate the penetration depth, antioxidant capacity and the clinical efficacy of Melaleuca alternifolia pure essential oil and in a nanoemulsion to prevent skin photoaging. For this, 2% of pure essential oil or 2% of this essential oil in a nanoemulsion were vehiculated in a formulation. The skin penetration was evaluated using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The radical protection factor was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. For a clinical study, 40 male participants, aged 18-28 years, were enrolled, being divided into three groups: vehicle formulation, M. alternifolia pure essential oil and M. alternifolia Nanoemulsion. All the participants also received a sunscreen SPF 50 to use during the day. Before and after 90 days of study, skin hydrolipidics and morphological characteristics were performed by skin imaging and biophysical techniques. The nanoemulsion presented a lower antioxidant capacity and a higher penetration through the stratum corneum, reaching the viable epidermis, improving the stratum granulosum morphology. The groups presented an increase in the papillary depth, improving in the dermis echogenicity and the collagen fibers. Melaleuca alternifolia essential provides the potential to improve photoaged skin, being the application of nanoemulsion able to reach deeper skin layers.

Glycerol and natural sugar-derived complex modulate differentially stratum corneum water-binding properties and structural parameters in an in vitro Raman-desorption model

The epidermal protective functions are closely associated with skin hydration homeostasis. The understanding of different states of water binding is a rising concept in assessing topically applied formulations and their interaction within the stratum corneum (SC). In addition to global water content, primary bound water, partially bound water, and unbound water and barrier-related lipid lateral packing and protein secondary structure can be measured by Raman spectroscopy. This study aimed to establish an in vitro SC model to evaluate differences in the efficacy of a natural sugar-derived complex in combination with glycerol and a botanical extract in modulating SC water binding and structural proteins and barrier lipids. These compounds were selected due to their water-binding and soothing properties. The SC water profiles were assessed at the surface and in 8 μm SC depth. After a 12-hour hyperhydration and subsequent product incubation the measurements were performed during a 6 hours desiccation phase. The maximal water caption and the time until reaching a steady state are measured as well as water retention and resistance against water loss. Global water content, partially bound, and unbound water, as well as lipid and protein structures were assessed with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Both the natural sugar-derived mixture and more pronounced, the same mixture with additional glycerol increased all three water-binding parameters at the surface and in 8 μm SC depth at the beginning and during the desiccation phase. Further addition of botanical extract did not result in an additional increase of the water-binding. All three formulations showed an increase in the lipid lateral packing values prevented the protein alteration as measured by β-sheets signal compared to blank. The present model is suited for screening studies comparing the specific effects of different compounds on hydration states. The natural sugar-derived mixture Aquaxyl showed evidence for an improvement of all SC hydration states, lipid and protein structure which was further enhanced by the addition of glycerol 5%. This improvement was evidenced at the surface and within the SC for all hydration-related parameters, and the lipid as well the protein structures. The addition of botanical extract phytoessence blue daisy did not show further improvement.

Systematic Review on the Effectiveness of Essential and Carrier Oils as Skin Penetration Enhancers in Pharmaceutical Formulations

Oils, including essential oils and their constituents, are widely reported to have penetration enhancement activity and have been incorporated into a wide range of pharmaceutical formulations. This study sought to determine if there is an evidence base for the selection of appropriate oils for particular applications and compare their effectiveness across different formulation types. A systematic review of the data sources, consisting of Google Scholar, EMBASE, PubMed, Medline, and Scopus, was carried out and, following screening and quality assessment, 112 articles were included within the analysis. The research was classified according to the active pharmaceutical ingredient, dosage form, in vitro/in vivo study, carrier material(s), penetration enhancers as essential oils, and other chemical enhancers. The review identified four groups of oils used in the formulation of skin preparations; in order of popularity, these are terpene-type essential oils (63%), fatty acid-containing essential oils (29%) and, finally, 8% of essential oils comprising Vitamin E derivatives and miscellaneous essential oils. It was concluded that terpene essential oils may have benefits over the fatty acid-containing oils, and their incorporation into advanced pharmaceutical formulations such as nanoemulsions, microemulsions, vesicular systems, and transdermal patches makes them an attractive proposition to enhance drug permeation through the skin.

Current views on non-invasive in vivo determination of physiological parameters of the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is widely used in dermatology and cosmetology for analysis of the concentration of skin components (lipids, natural moisturizing factor molecules, water) and the penetration depth of cosmetic/medical formulations in the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo. In recent years, it was shown that confocal Raman microspectroscopy can also be used for non-invasive in vivo depth-dependent determination of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as lamellar and lateral organization of intercellular lipids, folding properties of keratin, water mobility and hydrogen bonding states. The results showed that the strongest skin barrier function, which is primarily manifested by the orthorhombic organization of intercellular lipids, is provided at ≈20-40% SC depth, which is related to the maximal bonding state of water with surrounding components in the SC. The secondary and tertiary structures of keratin determine water binding in the SC, which is depth-dependent. This paper shows the technical possibility and advantage of confocal Raman microspectroscopy in non-invasive investigation of the skin and summarizes recent results on in vivo investigation of the human SC.

An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications

Renewed consumer and industry interest in natural ingredients has led to a large growth of natural cosmetics. This has put pressure on formulation skills and product claims when it comes to using natural compounds. Taking a strategic and comprehensive approach in viewing natural ingredients, including natural oils, as 'active' ingredients rather than just providing for so-called 'natural' claims, aids both innovation and development. Given the ever-increasing consumer demand for natural ingredients, and more importantly the demand for effective natural ingredients including plant oils, it is important for the cosmetic industry to re-evaluate them in this context. The objectives of this review are to provide an update of three popular cosmetic plant oils - Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose, and Jojoba - in terms of their cosmetic applications as 'active' ingredients. This review highlights the activity of these oils, in the management of dry skin, ageing skin, juvenile skin, atopic dermatitis, scalp conditions, and their wider potential. Attention is given to formulation considerations where the content of these oils impacts product oxidation, skin penetration and stratum corneum homeostasis. Benefits of these oils have been well documented both pre-clinically and clinically. Historically, they have been used for hundreds if not thousands of years for their management and treatment of various skin and other ailments. Given the discrepancies in some clinical data presented for a variety of dermatoses, the importance of the choice of oil and how to formulate with them within the context of the epidermal barrier function, skin penetration, and toxicity, cannot be underestimated. Care should be taken in terms of the quality and stability of theses oils, as well as ensuring best formulation type, if the reported activities of these oils are to be achieved with consistency. Despite discrepancies in the literature and questionable study designs, it is clear, that Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose and Jojoba oils, do have skin care benefits for both adult and juvenile applications. They are effective ingredients for skin care preparations to strengthen stratum corneum integrity, recovery, and lipid ratio. Nevertheless, further experimental data are required concerning the impact on stratum corneum physiology and structure.

Topical delivery of gambogic acid assisted by the combination of low-frequency ultrasound and chemical enhancers for chemotherapy of cutaneous melanoma

Anti-cutaneous melanoma activity of the skin-delivered gambogic acid (GA) has been reported in our previous study. However, it is difficult for GA to diffuse passively through intact skin without any enhancement means. In this study, a combination of chemical enhancers (EN: azone and propylene glycol) and physical ultrasound (US) was used to improve the percutaneous permeation of GA and enhance the anti-melanoma activity. The enhancement effect of the combination of EN and US (EN-US) on GA in vitro and in vivo was studied, and the enhancement mechanism and skin irritation were also evaluated. We showed that the parameters of US application at a constant frequency (30 kHz) with a duty cycle of 100% and intensity of 1.75 W/cm² for 20 min were optimal. In vitro, EN-US showed a considerable enhancement of the permeation of GA, and the enhancement effect was stronger than that with the use of EN or US alone. In vivo antitumor study showed that the tumor growth was significantly inhibited after percutaneous administration of GA by EN-US, more than in the intravenous injection group. The penetration enhancement mechanism revealed that EN-US not only altered the structure of lipid bilayers and keratins to reduce the barrier effect of the stratum corneum but also produced diffusion channels in the skin under the cavitation effect of US, thereby promoting the skin penetration of GA. In addition, there was no observable skin irritation in mice after treatment with EN-US. Our study demonstrated that the combination of EN and US improved the skin permeation and retention of GA to enhance the anti-melanoma activity. This method also provides technical guidance for the future development of topical and transdermal therapeutic system of GA.

Retaining Skin Barrier Function Properties of the Stratum Corneum with Components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor-A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Double-Blind In Vivo Study

The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This method allowed for the elucidation of subtle differences between the verum and the placebo even though the components of the verum naturally occur in the SC. This differentiation is not possible non-invasively by conventional methods. In this study, we found that the applied verum and placebo formulations disrupted the equilibrium of water, NMF and lipids in the SC. The adverse effects of the formulation could be mitigated by incorporating it into a simplified supplementation of NMF molecules. As a long-term effect, the amount of strongly bound water increases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) and the amount of weakly bound water decreases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) for the verum. This supplement was also unexpectedly able to prevent intercellular lipids (ICL) disorganization in selected depths. In the long term, the verum treatment limited the lateral disorganization of the ICL to the upper 20% SC depth. Further research is required to elucidate the interplay of these factors in the SC, to better understand their contribution to the equilibrium and barrier function of the skin. This understanding of the interaction of these naturally occurring components could help in the future to develop and optimize topical treatments for diseases like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis where the skin barrier is disrupted.

Polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene dimethyl ether (EPDME) random copolymer improves lipid structural ordering in stratum corneum of an epidermal-equivalent model as seen by two-photon microscopy

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

Topical application of polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene dimethyl ether (EPDME) random copolymer improves the barrier function of skin, whereas polyethylene glycol (PEG) and polypropylene glycol (PPG) are ineffective. The aim of this work was to examine the interaction between these polymers and lipid molecules in the stratum corneum in order to establish whether EPDME-specific changes in the structural ordering of lipids might account for the improvement of barrier function.

METHODS

We used two-photon microscopy to evaluate the effects of EPDME, PEG, and PPG on the structural ordering of lipids in an epidermal-equivalent model in terms of the fluorescence changes of Laurdan, a fluorescent dye that responds to changes of membrane fluidity. The generalized polarization (GP) value, a parameter that reflects lipid ordering, was measured at various depths from the surface of the stratum corneum.

RESULTS

EPDME increased the GP value to a depth of about 3 µm from the surface, indicating that lipid ordering was increased in this region, while PEG and PPG of the same molecular weight had no effect. Diffusion of Lucifer yellow into the epidermis was reduced after application of EPDME, indicating that the barrier function was improved.

CONCLUSION

These results support the view that EPDME improves barrier function by increasing the ordering of lipid structures in the stratum corneum. The methodology described here could be useful for screening new compounds that would improve the structural ordering of lipids.

Evidence of Skin Barrier Damage by Cyclic Siloxanes (Silicones)-Using Digital Holographic Microscopy

Cyclic siloxanes (D4, D5, D6) are widely used in skin products. They improve skin sensory properties and alleviate dry skin, but there is still one report (published 2019), which regards their effects on the destruction of the skin barrier, by using fluorescence microscopy and attenuated total reflection Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR). A new skin-imaging technique, digital holographic microscopy (DHM), was used for the first time to investigate the impact of D4, D5, and D6 on the skin barrier. We observed irreversible damage of the stratum corneum due to the interaction with cyclic siloxanes. These substances changed: (a) the first level of the skin barrier through destabilization of the intercellular lipid lamellae and destruction of the corneocyte structure (measured with axial nanometer resolution), (b) the second level by collapse of not only corneocytes but also of a significant part of the clusters, leading to the loss of the stratum corneum integrity and formation of the lacunae, (c) the third level as an effect of the change in the surface geometrical topography of the stratum corneum and disruption of the integrity of this skin layer, measured with lateral micrometer resolution. DHM allowed also to identify an important pathway for substances to penetrate into the skin through canyons surrounding the clusters. Our investigations provide advanced information for understanding the mechanisms by which various substances pass the skin barrier, including uncontrolled diffusion into the skin.

Stratum corneum occlusion induces water transformation towards lower bonding state: a molecular level in vivo study by confocal Raman microspectroscopy

OBJECTIVE

It is conventionally understood that occlusive effects are the retention of excessive water in the stratum corneum (SC), the increase of SC thickness (swelling) and a decrease of the transepidermal water loss. However, the influence of occlusion on water binding properties in the SC is unknown.

METHODS

The action of plant-derived jojoba and almond oils, as well as mineral-derived paraffin oil and petrolatum topically applied on human skin, is investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. To understand the oils' influence on the SC on the molecular level, the depth-dependent hydrogen bonding states of water in the SC and their relationship to the conformation of keratin, concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) molecules and lipid organization were investigated.

RESULTS

A significant SC swelling was observed only in petrolatum-treated skin. The water concentration was increased in oil-treated skin in the intermediate SC region (40-70% SC depth). Meanwhile, the amount of free, weakly and tightly bound water increased, and strongly bound water decreased in the uppermost SC region (0-30% SC depth). The NMF concentration of oil-treated skin was significantly lower at 50-70% SC depth. The lateral organization of lipids in oil-treated skin was lower at 0-30% SC depth. The secondary structure of keratin was changed towards an increase of β-sheet content in mineral-derived oil-treated skin and changed towards an increase of α-helix content in plant-derived oil-treated skin.

CONCLUSION

The occlusive properties can be summarized as the increase of free water and the transformation of water from a more strongly to a more weakly hydrogen bonding state in the uppermost SC, although some oils cause insignificant changes of the SC thickness. The accompanied changes in the keratin conformation at the intermediate swelling region of the SC also emphasize the role of keratin in the SC's water-transporting system, that is the water in the SC transports intercellularly and intracellularly in the intermediate swelling region and only intercellularly in the uppermost non-swelling region. Bearing this in mind, almond, jojoba and paraffin oils, which are not occlusive from the conventional viewpoint, have an occlusion effect similar to petrolatum on the SC.

Mineral oil in food, cosmetic products, and in products regulated by other legislations

For a few years, mineral oils and their potential adverse health effects have been a constant issue of concern in many regulatory areas such as food, cosmetics, other consumer products, and industrial chemicals. Analytically, two fractions can be distinguished: mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH) and mineral oil aromatic hydrocarbons (MOAH). This paper aims at assessing the bioaccumulative potential and associated histopathological effects of MOSH as well as the carcinogenic potential of MOAH for consumer-relevant mineral oils. It also covers the absorption, distribution, metabolism, and excretion of MOSH and MOAH upon oral and dermal exposures. The use and occurrence of consumer-relevant, highly refined mineral oils in food, cosmetics and medicinal products are summarized, and estimates for the exposure of consumers are provided. Also addressed are the challenges in characterizing the substance identity of mineral oil products under REACH. Evidence from more recent autopsy and biopsy studies, along with information on decreasing food contamination levels, indicates a low risk for adverse hepatic lesions that may arise from the retention of MOSH in the liver. With respect to MOAH, at present there is no indication of any carcinogenic effects in animals dermally or orally exposed to highly refined mineral oils and waxes. Such products are used not only in cosmetics but also in medicinal products and as additives in food contact materials. The safety of these mineral oil-containing products is thus indirectly documented by their prevalent and long-term use, with a simultaneous lack of clinical and epidemiological evidence for adverse health effects.

In vivo Tracking of DNA for Precise Determination of the Stratum Corneum Thickness and Superficial Microbiome Using Confocal Raman Microscopy

The skin barrier function is mostly provided by the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost layer of the epidermis. To noninvasively analyze the physiological properties of the skin barrier functionin vivo, it is important to determine the SC thickness. Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) is widely used for this task. In the present in vivo study, a new method based on the determination of the DNA concentration profile using CRM is introduced for determining the SC thickness. The obtained SC thickness values are compared with those obtained using other CRM-based methods determining the water and lipid depth profiles. The obtained results show almost no significant differences in SC thickness for the utilized methods. Therefore, the results indicate that it is possible to calculate the SC thickness by using the DNA profile in the fingerprint region, which is comparable with the SC thickness calculated by the water depth profiles (ANOVA test p = 0.77) and the lipid depth profile (ANOVA test p = 0.74). This provides the possibility to measure the SC thickness by using the DNA profile, in case the water or lipid profile analyses are influenced by a topically applied formulation. The increase in DNA concentration in the superficial SC (0-2 µm) is related to the DNA presence in the microbiome of the skin, which was not present in the SC depth below 4 µm.

[Follicular penetration of nanocarriers is an important penetration pathway for topically applied drugs]

BACKGROUND

The hair follicle represents a significant penetration route for topically applied substances.

ISSUE

The percutaneous absorption of substances can be significantly increased and accelerated by the involvement of hair follicles. In addition, nanoparticles have the characteristic to penetrate deeply and effectively into the hair follicles.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

An optimization of drug delivery for topically applied substances is possible if the nanoparticles act solely as a carrier to transport active ingredients into the hair follicle. Once the nanocarrier has penetrated into the hair follicle, the active substance must be released there. This can be triggered by various mechanisms.

RESULTS

The released drug can thus pass into the living tissue surrounding the hair follicle independently. With the help of this innovative strategy, the bioavailability of topically applied substances can be significantly improved.

CONCLUSION

The transport of active ingredients into the hair follicles with the help of particles and the release of active substances there is a very effective new method for transporting active substances through the skin barrier.

Acute Effects of Transdermal Administration of Jojoba Oil on Lipid Metabolism in Mice

Background and objectives: Aroma therapy is a complementary therapy using essential oils diluted with carrier oils. Jojoba oils have been widely used as carrier oils. However, limited information is available regarding their effects on blood biochemical parameters. This study aimed to investigate the effect of transdermal administration of jojoba oil on blood biochemical parameters in mice. Materials and Methods: Eight-week-old male hairless mice were randomly divided into naïve control and treatment groups. In the treatment group, mice were topically administered 4 μL of jojoba oil, per gram of body weight, on the dorsa 30 min before euthanasia. Thereafter, serum biochemical parameters were assayed, and gene expression was analyzed in various tissues via a real-time polymerase chain reaction. Results: Serum non-esterified fatty acid (NEFA) levels increased significantly 30 min after topical application of jojoba oil (p < 0.05). Atgl was significantly upregulated in the liver (p < 0.05), and Atgl upregulation in the liver was positively correlated with serum NEFA levels (r = 0.592, p < 0.05). Furthermore, a trend of decreasing fatty acid trafficking-related gene (FABPpm, FATP-1, FATP-3, and FATP-4) expression in the skin after topical application of jojoba oil (p = 0.067, 0.074, 0.076, and 0.082, respectively) was observed. Conclusions: Serum NEFA levels were elevated 30 min after transdermal administration of jojoba oil. The mechanisms of elevated serum NEFA levels might be related to both enhanced lipolysis in the liver and reduced fatty acid trafficking in the skin.

Tracing upconversion nanoparticle penetration in human skin

Due to their unique optical properties upconversion nanoparticles (UCNPs) provide exceptionally high contrast for imaging of true nanoparticle distribution in excised human skin. It makes possible to show penetration of solid nanoparticles in skin treated with chemical enhancers. We demonstrated tracing upconversion nanoparticles in excised human skin by means of optical microscopy at the discrete particle level sensitivity to obtain their penetration profiles, which was validated by laser-ablation inductively-coupled-plasma mass-spectrometry. To demonstrate utilities of our method, UCNPs were coated with polymers, formulated in water and chemical enhancers, and applied on excised human skin mounted on Franz cells, followed by imaging using a custom-built laser-scanning microscope. To evaluate the toxicity impact on skin by polymer-coated UCNPs, we introduced a tissue engineering model of viable epidermis made of decellularized chick embryo skin seeded with keratinocytes. UCNPs formulated in water stopped in stratum corneum, whereas UCNPs formulated in ethanol-water solution crossed stratum corneum and reached viable epidermis - hence, the enhancement effect for solid nanoparticles was detected by optical microscopy. All polymer-coated UCNPs were found nontoxic within the accepted safety levels. The keratinocyte resilience to polyethyleneimine-coated UCNPs was surprising considering cytotoxicity of polyethyleneimine to two-dimensional cell cultures.

Recent Advances on Topical Application of Ceramides to Restore Barrier Function of Skin

Human skin is the largest organ of the body and is an effective physical barrier keeping it from environmental conditions. This barrier function of the skin is based on stratum corneum, located in the uppermost skin. Stratum corneum has corneocytes surrounded by multilamellar lipid membranes which are composed of cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides (CERs). Alterations in ceramide content of the stratum corneum are associated with numerous skin disorders. In recent years, CERs have been incorporated into conventional and novel carrier systems with the purpose of exogenously applying CERs to help the barrier function of the skin. This review provides an overview of the structure, function and importance of CERs to restore the barrier function of the skin following their topical application.

Mechanism investigation of ethosomes transdermal permeation

Ethosomes are widely used to promote transdermal permeation of both lipophilic and hydrophilic drugs, but the mechanism of interaction between the ethosomes and the skin remains unclear. In this work, it was exploded with several technologies and facilities. Firstly, physical techniques such as attenuated total reflectance fourier-transform infrared and laser confocal Raman were used and the results indicated that the phospholipids configuration of stratum corneum changes from steady state to unstable state with the treatment of ethosomes. Differential scanning calorimetry reflected the thermodynamics change in stratum corneum after treatment with ethosomes. The results revealed that the skin of Bama mini-pigs, which is similar to human skin, treated by ethosomes had a relatively low T_m and enthalpy. Scanning electron microscopy and transmission electron microscopy showed that the microstructure and ultrastructure of stratum corneum was not damaged by ethosomes treatment. Furthermore, confocal laser scanning microscopy revealed that lipid labeled ethosomes could penetrate the skin via stratum corneum mainly through intercellular route, while during the process of penetration, phospholipids were retained in the upper epidermis. Cell experiments confirmed that ethosomes were distributed mainly on the cell membrane. Further study showed that only the drug-loaded ethosomes increased the amount of permeated drug. The current study, for the first time, elucidated the mechanistic behavior of ethosomes in transdermal application from molecular configuration, thermodynamic properties, ultrastructure, fluorescent labeling and cellular study. It is anticipated that the approaches and results described in the present study will benefit for better design of drug-loaded ethosomes.

Cleansing-induced changes in skin measured by in vivo confocal raman spectroscopy

BACKGROUND

One of the most important steps people can take in reducing the spread of bacteria and viruses is washing the hands with soap and water. Frequent washing, required in certain occupations, can lead to skin dryness, chapping, and itching.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy was used to study short-term effects of hand washing on product deposition, lipid acyl chain structural disordering, and extraction of important skin components such as natural moisturizing factors, cholesterol, ceramides, amino acids, and changes in skin hydration. Effects of use of either soap, synthetic detergent, or triethanolamine (TEA)-soap/ glycerin were compared at two water temperatures.

RESULTS

Soap use resulted in significant deposition at all depths to 20 μm at 25°C and at the surface and 2 μm at 37°C. Significant decreases were observed in relative amounts of all skin components studied. NMF levels were not changed. Skin dehydration was observed for use of soap at 37°C.

CONCLUSIONS

Short-term effects of frequent hand washing can be monitored with in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy. Effects of frequent washing may be reduced with lower wash temperature and products. Skin dehydration is not associated with lipid chain disordering.

Non-invasive depth profiling of the stratum corneum in vivo using confocal Raman microscopy considering the non-homogeneous distribution of keratin

Confocal Raman microscopy has a number of advantages in investigating the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo and ex vivo. The penetration profiles of xenobiotics in the SC, as well as depth profiles of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as the concentration of water depending on the strength of hydrogen bonds, total water concentration, the hydrogen bonding state of water molecules, concentration of intercellular lipids, the lamellar and lateral packing order of intercellular lipids, the concentration of natural moisturizing factor molecules, carotenoids, and the secondary and tertiary structure properties of keratin are well investigated. To consider the depth-dependent Raman signal attenuation, in most cases a normalization procedure is needed, which uses the main SC's protein keratin-related Raman peaks, based on the assumption that keratin is homogeneously distributed in the SC. We found that this assumption is not accurate for the bottom part of the SC, where the water concentration is considerably increased, thus, reducing the presence of keratin. Our results demonstrate that the bottom part of the SC depth profile should be multiplied by 0.94 in average in order to match this non-homogeneity, which result in a decrease of the uncorrected values in these depths. The correctly normalized depth profiles of the concentration of lipids, water, natural moisturizing factor and carotenoids are presented in this work. The obtained results should be taken into consideration in future skin research using confocal Raman microscopy.

Review of Modern Techniques for the Assessment of Skin Hydration

Skin hydration is a complex process that influences the physical and mechanical properties of skin. Various technologies have emerged over the years to assess this parameter, with the current standard being electrical probe-based instruments. Nevertheless, their inability to provide detailed information has prompted the use of sophisticated spectroscopic and imaging methodologies, which are capable of in-depth skin analysis that includes structural and composition details. Modern imaging and spectroscopic techniques have transformed skin research in the dermatological and cosmetics disciplines, and are now commonly employed in conjunction with traditional methods for comprehensive assessment of both healthy and pathological skin. This article reviews current techniques employed in measuring skin hydration, and gives an account on their principle of operation and applications in skin-related research.

In-vivo Raman spectroscopy: from basics to applications

For more than two decades, Raman spectroscopy has found widespread use in biological and medical applications. The instrumentation and the statistical evaluation procedures have matured, enabling the lengthy transition from ex-vivo demonstration to in-vivo examinations. This transition goes hand-in-hand with many technological developments and tightly bound requirements for a successful implementation in a clinical environment, which are often difficult to assess for novice scientists in the field. This review outlines the required instrumentation and instrumentation parameters, designs, and developments of fiber optic probes for the in-vivo applications in a clinical setting. It aims at providing an overview of contemporary technology and clinical trials and attempts to identify future developments necessary to bring the emerging technology to the clinical end users. A comprehensive overview of in-vivo applications of fiber optic Raman probes to characterize different tissue and disease types is also given.

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy as an alternative to differential scanning calorimetry to detect the impact of emulsifiers and formulations on stratum corneum lipid conformation

The purpose of this study was to investigate the impact of emulsifiers and formulations on stratum corneum (SC) lipid conformation and evaluate confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM) as an alternative method to differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) in this research context. To this end, four different formulations were used: three conventional creams that contained ionic and/or non-ionic emulsifiers and one surfactants-free emulsion stabilized by a polymeric emulsifier. Additionally, all emulsifiers were tested in aqueous solutions/dispersions in the respective concentrations as present in the formulations. In this study, emulsifiers and formulations were applied onto excised porcine skin during incubation in Franz diffusion cells. Subsequently, SC was isolated, dried and subjected to CRM and DSC measurement to analyse lipid structural changes after treatment. In CRM measurement, 1080 cm^-1/(1130 cm^-1 + 1070 cm^-1) peak ratio, which represents the C-C skeleton vibration and trans-gauche conformation order of lipids, was investigated. Various emulsifiers and formulations showed different impact on SC lipid conformation. Specifically, cetearyl alcohol and sodium cetearyl sulfate mixture dispersion showed the strongest ability among all studied emulsifiers, followed by glycerol monostearate, polyoxyethylene-20-glycerol monostearate as well as their mixture. Polysorbate 60, cetyl stearyl alcohol and their mixture did not affect SC lipid structure. The results of CRM and DSC correlated very well, indicating CRM, as an alternative to DSC, can be a reliable method to investigate SC lipid conformation.