Photodegradation of avobenzone: Stabilization effect of antioxidants

Computer-aided drug design supporting sunscreen research: a showcase study using previously synthesized hybrid UV filter-antioxidant compounds

CONTEXT

Although quantum mechanical calculations have proven effective in accurately predicting UV absorption and assessing the antioxidant potential of compounds, the utilization of computer-aided drug design (CADD) to support sustainable synthesis research of new sunscreen active ingredients remains an area with limited exploration. Furthermore, there are ongoing concerns about the safety and effectiveness of existing sunscreens. Therefore, it remains crucial to investigate photoprotection mechanisms and develop enhanced strategies for mitigating the harmful effects of UVR exposure, improving both the safety and efficacy of sunscreen products. A previous study conducted synthesis research on eight novel hybrid compounds (I-VIII) for use in sunscreen products by molecular hybridization of trans-resveratrol (RESV), avobenzone (AVO), and octinoxate (OMC). Herein, time-dependent density functional theory (TD-DFT) calculations performed in the gas phase on the isolated hybrid compounds (I-VIII) proved to reproduce the experimental UV absorption. Resveratrol-avobenzone structure-based hybrids (I-IV) present absorption maxima in the UVB range with slight differences between them, while resveratrol-OMC structure-based hybrids (V-VIII) showed main absorption in the UVA range. Among RESV-OMC hybrids, compounds V and VI exhibited higher UV absorption intensity, and compound VIII stood out for its broad-spectrum coverage in our simulations. Furthermore, both in silico and in vitro analyses revealed that compounds VII and VIII exhibited the highest antioxidant activity, with compound I emerging as the most reactive antioxidant within RESV-AVO hybrids. The study suggests a preference for the hydrogen atom transfer (HAT) mechanism over single-electron transfer followed by proton transfer (SET-PT) in the gas phase. With a strong focus on sustainability, this approach reduces costs and minimizes effluent production in synthesis research, promoting the eco-friendly development of new sunscreen active ingredients.

METHODS

The SPARTAN'20 program was utilized for the geometry optimization and energy calculations of all compounds. Conformer distribution analysis was performed using the Merck molecular force field 94 (MMFF94), and geometry optimization was carried out using the parametric method 6 (PM6) followed by density functional theory (DFT/B3LYP/6-31G(d)). The antioxidant behavior of the hybrid compounds (I-VIII) was determined using the highest occupied molecular orbital (εHOMO) and the lowest unoccupied molecular orbital (εLUMO) energies, as well as the bond dissociation enthalpy (BDE), ionization potential (IP), and proton dissociation enthalpy (PDE) values, all calculated at the same level of structural optimization. TD-DFT study is carried out to calculate the excitation energy using the B3LYP functional with the 6-31G(d) basis set. The calculated transitions were convoluted with a Gaussian profile using the Gabedit program.

Photoprotective efficacy of Sunset Yellow via inhibition of type-I and type-II pathway under exposure of sunlight

Exposure to phototoxicants and photosensitizers can result in the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to oxidative stress, DNA damage, and various skin-related issues such as aging, allergies, and cancer. While several photo-protectants offer defense against ultraviolet radiation (UV-R), their effectiveness is often limited by photo-instability. Sunset Yellow (SY), an FDA-approved food dye, possesses significant UV-R and visible light absorption properties. However, its photoprotective potential has remained unexplored. Our investigation reveals that SY exhibits remarkable photostability for up to 8 h under both UV-R and sunlight. Notably, SY demonstrates the ability to quench ROS, including singlet oxygen (1O2), superoxide radicals (O 2 · - $$ {\mathrm{O}}_2^{\cdotp -} $$ ), and hydroxyl radicals (·OH) induced by rose bengal, riboflavin and levofloxacin, respectively. Moreover, SY proves effective in protecting against the apoptotic and necrotic cell death induced by the phototoxicant chlorpromazine (CPZ) in HaCaT cells. Further, it was observed that SY imparts photoprotection by inhibiting intracellular ROS generation and calcium release. Genotoxicity evaluation provides additional evidence supporting SY's photoprotective effects against CPZ-induced DNA damage. In conclusion, these findings underscore the potential of SY as a promising photoprotective agent against the toxic hazards induced by phototoxicants, suggesting its prospective application in the formulation of broad-spectrum sunscreens.

Combined effects of organic and mineral UV-filters on the lugworm Arenicola marina

Pollution from personal care products, such as UV-filters like avobenzone and nano-zinc oxide (nZnO), poses a growing threat to marine ecosystems. To better understand this hazard, especially for lesser-studied sediment-dwelling marine organisms, we investigated the physiological impacts of simultaneous exposure to nZnO and avobenzone on the lugworm Arenicola marina. Lugworms were exposed to nZnO, avobenzone, or their combination for three weeks. We assessed pollutant-induced metabolic changes by measuring key metabolic intermediates in the body wall and coelomic fluid, and oxidative stress by analyzing antioxidant levels and oxidative lesions in proteins and lipids of the body wall. Exposure to UV filters resulted in shifts in the concentrations of Krebs' cycle and urea cycle intermediates, as well as alterations in certain amino acids in the body wall and coelomic fluid of the lugworms. Pathway enrichment analyses revealed that nZnO induced more pronounced metabolic shifts compared to avobenzone or their combination. Exposure to avobenzone or nZnO alone prompted an increase in tissue antioxidant capacity, indicating a compensatory response to restore redox balance, which effectively prevented oxidative damage to proteins or lipids. However, co-exposure to nZnO and avobenzone suppressed superoxide dismutase and lead to accumulation of lipid peroxides and methionine sulfoxide, indicating oxidative stress and damage to lipids and proteins. Our findings highlight oxidative stress as a significant mechanism of toxicity for both nZnO and avobenzone, especially when combined, and underscores the importance of further investigating the fitness implications of oxidative stress induced by these common UV filters in benthic marine organisms.

Substantial Confinement of Crystal Growth of Organic Crystalline Materials in Metal-Organic Membrane Microshells

This study proposes a robust microshell encapsulation system in which a metal-organic membrane (MOM), consisting of phytic acids (PAs) and metal ions, intrinsically prevents the molecular crystal growth of organic crystalline materials (OCMs). To develop this system, OCM-containing oil-in-water (O/W) Pickering emulsions were enveloped with the MOM, in which anionic pulp cellulose nanofiber (PCNF) primers electrostatically captured zinc ions at the O/W interface and chelated with PA, thus producing the MOM with a controlled shell thickness at the micron scale. We ascertained that the MOM formation fills and covers ∼75% of the surface pore size of PCNF films, which enhances the interfacial modulus by 2 orders of magnitude compared to that when treated with bare PCNFs. Through a feasibility test using a series of common OCMs, including ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, and ceramide, we demonstrated the excellent ability of our MOM microshell system to stably encapsulate OCMs while retaining their original molecular structures over time. These findings indicate that our MOM-reinforced microshell technology can be applied as a platform to substantially confine the crystal growth of various types of OCMs.

Ring buckling and C=N isomerization pathways for efficient photoprotection in two nature-inspired UVA sunscreens revealed through ultrafast dynamics and high-level calculations

Sunscreens provide a frontline defense for our DNA against the damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The active ingredients in topically applied sunscreens that provide this defense are UV filters, which preferentially absorb or reflect UV radiation before it penetrates the skin and interacts with photosensitive nucleic acids. However, there are concerns related to human and environmental toxicity of current UV filters, and consequently a shift toward nature-inspired, particularly microbial, UV filters. In this paper, new physical insight is provided into the fundamental mechanisms of photoprotection in two synthetic analogs of mycosporine-like amino acid-type UV filters, demonstrating new methods of protection that are distinct from those of current commercial sunscreens, extending previous work in this area. Transient absorption measurements (both transient electronic absorption spectroscopy and transient vibrational absorption spectroscopy) are combined with steady-state studies and high-level computational results to aid our mapping of the experimentally derived lifetimes to real-time photodynamic processes. The conclusions reached here pave the way toward developing new and more efficient biomimetic DNA photoprotectant materials.

Evaluation of the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of an avobenzone derivative

Solar radiation can cause damage to the skin, and the use of sunscreens is one of the main protective measures. However, photounstable ultraviolet (UV) filters can generate photoproducts and reactive oxygen species (ROS). Adding antioxidants, such as resveratrol, to enhance the action of UV filters in sunscreens is an interesting strategy for reducing the damage caused by UV radiation exposure. However, new compounds must have their stability, safety and efficacy guaranteed. Avobenzone, a commonly used UV filter, stands out as a promising candidate for structural modification to enhance its stability. Its molecular hybridization with other UV filters and antioxidants can lead to safer and more effective compounds. In this study, the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of a derivative of avobenzone, hybridized with resveratrol's molecule, was evaluated using in vitro models of cells in monolayer and reconstructed human skin (RHS). Phototoxic potential was assessed using fibroblasts, while the antioxidant activity was measured using the DCFH2-DA probe in HaCaT keratinocytes and in-house RHS. The derivative exhibited UV absorption and demonstrated photostability. It did not exhibit any phototoxic nor photoreactivity potential. Additionally, it was able to photo stabilize a combination of photounstable UV filters, avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate, and to reduce their phototoxic potential. In terms of antioxidant activity, the derivative successfully protected against UVA-induced ROS production in the HaCaT keratinocytes model, showing statistical equivalence to the antioxidant control, quercetin (10 μg/mL). Furthermore, experiments conducted in the RHS model demonstrated a significant reduction of 30.7% in ROS generation compared to the irradiated control. This study demonstrated that structural modifications of avobenzone can lead to the development of a broad spectrum (absorbing UVB and UVA II radiation, as well as a portion of the UVA I radiation), non-phototoxic, non-photoreactive and photostable derivative for sunscreen and anti-aging formulations. This derivative enhances protection against oxidative stress induced by UV radiation and improves the effectiveness of sun protection. In addition to the monolayer model, the use of a standardized in-house RHS model was highly relevant for evaluating the effects of UV radiation and skin aging. This model closely mimics human physiological conditions and enables the testing of new compounds and the investigation of protective mechanisms against skin damage.

Assessment of the photoprotective potential and structural characterization of secondary metabolites of Antarctic fungus Arthrinium sp

Interest in Antarctic fungi has grown due to their resilience in harsh environments, suggesting the presence of valuable compounds from its organisms, such as those presenting photoprotective potential, since this environment suffers the most dangerous UV exposure in the world. Therefore, this research aimed to assess the photoprotective potential of compounds from sustainable marine sources, specifically seaweed-derived fungi from Antarctic continent. These studies led to discovery of photoprotective and antioxidant properties of metabolites from Arthrinium sp., an endophytic fungus from Antarctic brown algae Phaeurus antarcticus. From crude extract, fractions A-I were obtained and compounds 1-6 isolated from E and F fractions, namely 3-Hydroxybenzyl alcohol (1), (-)-orthosporin (2), norlichexanthone (3), anomalin B (4), anomalin A (5), and agonodepside B (6). Compounds 1, 2, and 6 were not previously reported in Arthrinium. Fraction F demonstrated excellent absorbance in both UVA and UVB regions, while compound 6 exhibited lower UVB absorbance, possibly due to synergistic effects. Fraction F and compound 6 displayed photostability and were non-phototoxic to HaCaT cells. They also exhibited antioxidant activity by reducing intracellular ROS production induced by UVA in keratinocyte monolayers and reconstructed human skin models (resulting in 34.6% and 30.2% fluorescence reduction) and did not show irritation potential in HET-CAM assay. Thus, both are promising candidates for use in sunscreens. It is noted that Fraction F does not require further purification, making it advantageous, although clinical studies are necessary to confirm its potential applicability for sunscreen formulations.

Single and mixture toxicity evaluation of avobenzone and homosalate to male zebrafish and H295R cells

Avobenzone and homosalate are widely used in sunscreens to provide ultraviolet (UV) protection, either as single compounds or in combination. Some UV filters exhibit estrogenic or anti-androgenic activities, however, studies regarding their interactions and toxicity in mixtures are limited. In this study, the effect of the toxicity of a binary mixture comprising avobenzone (0.72 μg L-1) and homosalate (1.02 and 103 μg L-1) on steroid hormone biosynthesis were investigated using male zebrafish and human adrenocortical carcinoma (H295R) cells. In fish exposed to homosalate, a significant decrease in the gonadosomatic index, testosterone level, and transcription of several genes (e.g, hsd3b2, cyp17a1, and hsd17b1) and a significant increase in the hepatosomatic index, liver steatosis, 17β-estradiol level, and transcription of vtg gene were observed. These results suggest that estrogenic and anti-androgenic effects of homosalate were mediated by the steroidogenic pathway. The presence of 0.72 μg L-1 of avobenzone augmented the anti-androgenic responses in male fish. The testosterone level in the H295R cells were significantly decreased after they were exposed to homosalate alone or in combination with avobenzone, which is consistent with observations in male zebrafish. Further studies need to be conducted to understand the endocrine disrupting properties of long-term exposure to substances typically used in sunscreens.

Geospatial and co-occurrence analysis of antibiotics, hormones, and UV filters in the Chesapeake Bay (USA) to confirm inputs from wastewater treatment plants, septic systems, and animal feeding operations

Previous studies have reported select contaminants of emerging concern (CECs) in limited areas of the Chesapeake Bay (USA), but no comprehensive efforts have been conducted. In this work, 43 antibiotics, 9 hormones, 11 UV filters, and sucralose, were measured in matched water, sediment, and oyster samples from 58 sites. The highest sucralose concentration was 3051 ng L-1 in a subwatershed with 4.43 million liters of wastewater effluent per day (MLD) and 4385 septic systems. Although antibiotic occurrence was generally low in subwatersheds located in less populated areas, 102 ng L-1 ciprofloxacin was detected downstream of 0.58 MLD wastewater effluent and 10 animal feeding operations. Hormones were not regularly detected in water (2%) or oysters (37%), but the high detection frequencies in sediment (74%) were associated with septic systems. UV filters were ubiquitously detected in oysters, and octisalate exhibited the highest concentration (423 ng g-1). Oyster-phase oxybenzone and aqueous-phase sucralose concentrations were significantly correlated to wastewater effluent and septic systems, respectively. Toxicity outcomes were predicted for homosalate and octisalate throughout the Bay, and antimicrobial resistance concerns were noted for the Chester River. The geospatial and co-occurrence relationships constitute crucial advances to understanding CEC occurrence in the Chesapeake Bay and elsewhere.

Exploring Mycosporine-like Amino Acid UV-Absorbing Natural Products for a New Generation of Environmentally Friendly Sunscreens

Human skin needs additional protection from damaging ultraviolet radiation (UVR: 280-400 nm). Harmful UVR exposure leads to DNA damage and the development of skin cancer. Available sunscreens offer chemical protection from detrimental sun radiation to a certain extent. However, many synthetic sunscreens do not provide sufficient UVR protection due to the lack of photostability of their UV-absorbing active ingredients and/or the lack of ability to prevent the formation of free radicals, inevitably leading to skin damage. In addition, synthetic sunscreens may negatively affect human skin, causing irritation, accelerating skin aging and even resulting in allergic reactions. Beyond the potential negative effect on human health, some synthetic sunscreens have been shown to have a harmful impact on the environment. Consequently, identifying photostable, biodegradable, non-toxic, and renewable natural UV filters is imperative to address human health needs and provide a sustainable environmental solution. In nature, marine, freshwater, and terrestrial organisms are protected from harmful UVR through several important photoprotective mechanisms, including the synthesis of UV-absorbing compounds such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). Beyond MAAs, several other promising, natural UV-absorbing products could be considered for the future development of natural sunscreens. This review investigates the damaging impact of UVR on human health and the necessity of using sunscreens for UV protection, specifically UV-absorbing natural products that are more environmentally friendly than synthetic UV filters. Critical challenges and limitations related to using MAAs in sunscreen formulations are also evaluated. Furthermore, we explain how the genetic diversity of MAA biosynthetic pathways may be linked to their bioactivities and assess MAAs' potential for applications in human health.

Dermatological Management of Aged Skin

The subject of the work concerns the dermatological management of patients mainly with aged skin. The purpose of the work was to present the basic techniques and preparations which are performed by dermatologists in the treatment of aged skin. There are dermatological treatments related to the treatment of skin diseases and cosmetic treatments which are mainly related to skin care. In this work, the method of literature research was applied. On the basis of books and journal articles on dermatological and cosmetic procedures for aged skin, an analysis of treatment types was made. Then, the results of this analysis were presented in the paper under discussion. The paper presents information on the skin and its properties. The structure and functions of the skin, aging processes and characteristics of aged skin were discussed. Then, the possibilities of reducing the visible signs of skin aging through the use of invasive and non-invasive dermatological and cosmetological treatments were given, and the most important components of preparations used supportively in combating skin aging processes were discussed.

Drug Delivery Strategies for Avobenzone: A Case Study of Photostabilization

Several developments and research methods are ongoing in drug technology and chemistry research to elicit effectiveness regarding the therapeutic activity of drugs along with photoprotection for their molecular integrity. The detrimental effect of UV light induces damaged cells and DNA, which leads to skin cancer and other phototoxic effects. The application of sunscreen shields to the skin is important, along with recommended UV filters. Avobenzone is widely used as a UVA filter for skin photoprotection in sunscreen formulations. However, keto-enol tautomerism propagates photodegradation into it, which further channelizes the phototoxic and photoirradiation effects, further limiting its use. Several approaches have been used to counter these issues, including encapsulation, antioxidants, photostabilizers, and quenchers. To seek the gold standard approach for photoprotection in photosensitive drugs, combinations of strategies have been implemented to identify effective and safe sunscreen agents. The stringent regulatory guidelines for sunscreen formulations, along with the availability of limited FDA-approved UV filters, have led many researchers to develop perfect photostabilization strategies for available photostable UV filters, such as avobenzone. From this perspective, the objective of the current review is to summarize the recent literature on drug delivery strategies implemented for the photostabilization of avobenzone that could be useful to frame industrially oriented potential strategies on a large scale to circumvent all possible photounstable issues of avobenzone.

Multifunctional Profiling of Moringa oleifera Leaf Extracts for Topical Application: A Comparative Study of Different Collection Time

This research investigated plant extracts as a source of potential new actives in the nutritional, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical fields. Moringa oleifera, which is extensively known for its nutritional properties, has been investigated in this work by preparation, characterization, and evaluation of the antioxidant (FRAP, DPPH, ORAC, and PCL test), antifungal, photoprotective, and cytotoxicity profile against human melanoma Colo38 cell line of two different extracts (hydroalcoholic and methanolic) and one infusion of dry leaves collected from Paraguay in four distinct harvest times (February, March, April, and May 2017). The outcomes of this study highlight Moringa oleifera as a potential ally to counteract skin aging and oxidative stress, as indicated by the favorable antioxidant profile of the extracts and infusions of Paraguay, which was, in all cases, superior to that provided by the same plant species when collected from Senegal. Moreover, some samples were more efficient in preventing the photodegradation of UVA filter butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) compared to commercial filters, thus suggesting an interesting future role as natural additives in sunscreens.

Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of new potent antioxidant molecules. This work aims to characterize the frequency of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens. Photoprotective formulations currently marketed in parapharmacies and pharmacies were analyzed with respect to the composition described on the label. As a result, pure compounds with antioxidant activity were found. The majority of sunscreen formulations contained antioxidants, with vitamin E and its derivatives the most frequent. A more thorough analysis of these antioxidants is also provided, unveiling the top antioxidant ingredients found in sunscreens. A critical appraisal of the scientific evidence regarding their effectiveness is also performed. In conclusion, this work provides an up-to-date overview of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens for a better understanding of the advantages associated with their use in photoprotective formulations.

Photoprotective Efficacy of the Association of Rosmarinic Acid 0.1% with Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and Avobenzone

Innovative prototype sunscreens with reduced ultraviolet (UV) filters are required to achieve safer, more effective, and more environmentally friendly formulations. Rosmarinic acid (RA) is a phenolic antioxidant and potential candidate for multifunctional sunscreens. We used RA (0.1% w/w) in combination with avobenzone (2.5% and 5.0% w/w), a UVA filter, and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (10.0% w/w), a UVB filter, to evaluate in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength, photostability, and the in vivo SPF. RA, in vitro, improved the SPF of F2 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 2.5% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w) and F3 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 5.0% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w), which also presented broad-spectrum profiles; however, no expressive effects were observed for the critical wavelength (nm). By the in vivo trial, RA showed an increment in the F3 SPF value and maintained the F2 effectiveness, even when avobenzone was at 2.5%. Nonetheless, no increase in photostability was observed. Our findings suggest that incorporating natural molecules with antioxidant activities into sunscreens could decrease the proportion of conventional UV filters in the final product, with the advantage of providing other functional properties. Further investigation of higher RA concentrations, even from other sources, and other UV filter combinations could reveal important data for the development of multifunctional sunscreens.

Titanium dioxide incorporated in cellulose nanofibers with enhanced UV blocking performance by eliminating ROS generation

The preparation of sunblocks with dispersion stability, ultraviolet blocking, and photocompatibility remains a considerable challenge. Plant-derived natural polymers, such as cellulose nanofibers (CNF), show versatile traits, including long aspect ratio, hydrophilic nature, resource abundance, and low material cost. In the present study, a facile and cost-effective strategy is reported for the fabrication of nanostructured inorganic materials by incorporating natural polymers as interspersed, systematically nanosized titanium dioxide (TiO2) particles onto CNF. Among all experiments, the optimized TiO2@CNF3 showed higher ultraviolet blocking performance and less whitening effect. The outstanding performance is attributed to the engineering of equally dispersed nano-sized TiO2 particles on the CNF surface and stable dispersion. Significantly, TiO2@CNF3 exhibited excellent compatibility with avobenzone (80%), an oil-soluble ingredient used in sunblock products, illustrating the photoprotection enhancement under ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB). Moreover, only 14.8% rhodamine B (Rho-B) dye degraded through photocatalytic oxidation process with the TiO2@CNF3, which is negligible photocatalytic activity compared to that of TiO2 (95% dye degraded). Furthermore, commercial inorganic and organic sunblock products with SPF lifetimes of 35+ and 50+ were modified using CNF, significantly enhancing the transmittance performance compared to that of the pure sunblock. However, it was also observed that hydrophilic CNF tended to demulsify the creams due to electrostatic disequilibrium. This CNF-based modified TiO2 system is a new window to replace effective sunblock products in high-value-added applications, such as cosmetics.

Lignin Nanoparticles as Sustainable Photoprotective Carriers for Sunscreen Filters

Sunscreen filters may be degraded after prolonged UV exposure with loss of their shielding property and generation of harmful radical species. They are contained in cosmetic formulations in high concentrations, so the improvement of photostability is of relevance for safety concerns. We report here that lignin nanoparticles are sustainable carriers and photostabilizers of two common UV chemical filters, namely, avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate. These compounds have been encapsulated by nanoprecipitation into kraft lignin nanoparticles using eco-certified dimethyl isosorbide as a primary solvent and deionized water as an antisolvent. After the encapsulation, both compounds significantly prolonged the half-life stability against UV irradiation. The stabilizing properties of lignin nanoparticles were further improved by coencapsulation of avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate with hydroxytyrosol, a natural phenol with antioxidant activity recovered from olive oil wastes and characterized by skin regenerative properties.

Significance of D- tryptophan in Contryphan-Ar1131 Conus peptide: Oxidative folding, trypsin binding, and photostabilization activity

Distinct differences have been observed between L-tryptophan and D-tryptophan containing contryphan-Ar1131 in oxidative folding, trypsin binding, and photostabilization activity on avobenzone. [W⁵] contryphan-Ar1131 and [w⁵] contryphan-Ar1131 were chemically synthesized and characterized using RP-HPLC and mass spectrometry. Structural differences due to the change of configuration of tryptophan were evident from the optimized structures of contryphan-Ar1131 using density functional theory (DFT). The comparison of early events of oxidative folding has revealed the role of D-tryptophan in accelerating the formation of a disulfide bond. The optimized structures of the reduced form of peptides revealed the occurrence of aromatic-aromatic and aromatic-proline interactions in [w⁵] contryphan-Ar1131 which may be critical in aiding the oxidative folding reaction. The presence of the Lys6-Pro7 peptide bond indicates that contryphan-Ar1131 is resistant but may bind to trypsin allowing to assign the binding affinity of peptides to the protein surface. Competitive binding studies and molecular docking along with molecular dynamic (MD) simulations have revealed that [w⁵] contryphan-Ar1131 has more affinity for the active site of trypsin. Given tryptophan is a photostabilizer of FDA-approved chemical UV-A filter avobenzone, the report has compared the photostabilization activity of [W⁵]/ [w⁵] contryphan-Ar1131 on avobenzone under natural sunlight. [w⁵] contryphan-Ar1131 has better photostabilization activity than that of [W⁵] contryphan-Ar1131 and also individual D-tryptophan and L-tryptophan amino acids. These biochemical studies have highlighted the significance of D-tryptophan in contryphan-Ar1131 and its photostabilization activity on avobenzone may find applications in cosmetics.

Peptide Cysteine Thiols Act as Photostabilizer of Avobenzone through Stabilising the Transition State of Keto-enol Tautomerization

Photostabilizers have been used to impart stability to an FDA-approved chemical UV-A filter avobenzone against the UV-A radiations and sunlight. The thiol group of glutathione plays a critical role in imparting the photostabilization activity of glutathione on avobenzone. The current report aims to evaluate the photostabilization activity of multiple thiols containing cysteine peptides on avobenzone. Cysteine-tripeptide and cysteine-pentapeptide were chemically synthesized and characterized using mass spectrometry. Synthetic peptides were assessed for their photostabilization activity on the enolic-form of the avobenzone under natural sunlight using UV-spectroscopy in both protic and aprotic solvents. Unlike glutathione which has pronounced activity in protic solvents, cysteine-pentapeptide exhibits similar photoprotection activity in both protic and aprotic solvents. Computational calculations using DFT suggest that peptide cysteine thiols may assist in the reversal of the photoketonization process of avobenzone thereby exhibiting the photoprotection activity to the enolic-form of avobenzone. Peptide cysteine thiols lower the activation energy barrier of keto-to-enol tautomerization of avobenzone by 30 kcal/mol by assisting the proton shuttle through a six-membered transition state. The current report emphasizes the applications of peptide thiols in cosmetics and may help in the development of peptides as aesthetic medicines.

UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

The use of sunscreens is an established and recommended practice to protect skin from solar-induced damage. Around 30 UV filters can be used in sunscreen products in the European Union, which ought to follow the requirements of the regulation 1223/2009 to ensure their efficacy and safety for humans. Nevertheless, low photostability and putative toxicity for humans and environment have been reported for some UV filters. Particularly, the negative impact in marine organisms has recently raised concern on the scientific community. Therefore, it is important to develop new UV filters with improved safety profile and photostability. Over the last two decades, nearly 200 new compounds have revealed promising photoprotection properties. The explored compounds were obtained through different approaches, including exploration of natural sources, synthetic pathways, and nanotechnology. Almost 50 natural products and around 140 synthetic derivatives, such as benzimidazoles, benzotriazoles, hydroxycinnamic acids, xanthones, triazines, among others, have been studied aiming the discovery of novel, effective, and safer future photoprotective agents. Herein, we provide the reader with an overview about UV filters’ challenges and prospects, offering a forward-looking to the next-generation of UV filters.

Methoxy-Monobenzoylmethane Protects Skin from UV-Induced Damages in a Randomized, Placebo Controlled, Double-Blinded Human In Vivo Study and Prevents Signs of Inflammation While Improving the Skin Barrier

INTRODUCTION

Sun protection is important in skin care and requires special attention as inefficient protection might trigger skin pathologies including polymorphic light eruption (PLE). The reduce-improve-protect (RIP) concept to avoid the onset of ultraviolet (UV) irradiation-induced diseases or damage to human skin is important. Methoxy-monobenzoylmethane (MeO-MBM), which is neither a UVB nor a UVA filter, converts to the UV filter avobenzone under UV irradiation and further acts as a photoantioxidant during its conversion process and initially as an antioxidant material. The aim of this study was to understand the mechanisms by which MeO-MBM improves the condition of UV-stressed skin through its photoantioxidant properties. The improvement of the skin condition by the activity of MeO-MBM as active ingredient was also investigated.

METHODS

Potential molecular targets were identified by in silico docking to numerous cellular membrane receptors on the cell surface or nuclear membrane, followed by microarray analysis of 164 genes after MeO-MBM treatment of normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK). We conducted randomized, double-blinded, intra-individual comparison vs. placebo studies on ten volunteers, aged between 34 and 65 years, to assess the effect of MeO-MBM in vivo. The effect after UV-induced inflammation was assessed in a protective and curative set-up with 2% MeO-MBM vs. 1% hydrocortisone and placebo based on the change in blood flow. The barrier function of the skin was assessed by the change in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin scaling and skin thickness after the treatment with MeO-MBM. Additionally, the effect of MeO-MBM after UV-induced stress on the activation of ferritin in human explants was determined ex vivo.

RESULTS

A docking simulation of MeO-MBM showed a potential interaction with the retinoic acid receptor gamma and further revealed downregulation of proteins related to inflammation. In the protective treatment set-up, after 24 h MeO-MBM significantly reduced the delta blood flow compared to placebo, while this reduction was more prominent with hydrocortisone. In the curative treatment set-up, a greater reduction in delta blood flow was also observed with MeO-MBM compared to placebo and similar to hydrocortisone. Treatment with MeO-MBM revealed an improvement in skin barrier function as a result of decreased TEWL, reduced skin scaling and increased skin thickness. Immunohistochemistry staining of ferritin on human skin explants further showed that the treatment with MeO-MBM reduced the ferritin expression.

CONCLUSION

Based on these results, MeO-MBM is capable of exerting an anti-aging activity via the retinoic acid receptor gamma. Its anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative activity manifested via the downregulation of multiple anti-inflammatory genes as well as the reduction of ferritin in skin tissue. This study shows that the multidimensional functionality of MeO-MBM offers an effective approach to combat acute and chronic deleterious effects of oxidative UV damage while simultaneously enhancing the skin barrier function.

Determining the photostability of avobenzone in sunscreen formulation models using ultrafast spectroscopy

Avobenzone is an ultraviolet (UV) filter that is often included in sunscreen formulations despite its lack of photostability. Its inclusion is necessary due to few existing alternatives for photoprotection in the UVA region (320-400 nm). To better understand and predict the photostability of avobenzone, ultrafast transient electronic absorption spectroscopy (TEAS) has been used to study the effects of solvent (including emollients), concentration and skin surface temperature on its excited-state relaxation mechanism, following photoexcitation with UVA radiation (∼350 nm). Subtle differences between the excited-state lifetimes were found between the systems, but the TEAS spectral features were qualitatively the same for all solution and temperature combinations. Alongside TEAS measurements, UV filter/emollient blends containing avobenzone were irradiated using simulated solar light and their degradation tracked using steady-state UV-visible spectroscopy. Sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) assessments were also carried out on representative oil phases (higher concentration blends), which could be used to formulate oil-in-water sunscreens. It was found that there was an apparent concentration dependence on the long-term photoprotective efficacy of these mixtures, which could be linked to the ultrafast photodynamics by the presence of a ground-state bleach offset. This combination of techniques shows potential for correlating long-term behaviours (minutes to hours) of avobenzone with its ultrafast photophysics (femtoseconds to nanoseconds), bridging the gap between fundamental photophysics/photochemistry and commercial sunscreen design.

Methoxy-Monobenzoylmethane Protects Human Skin against UV-Induced Damage by Conversion to Avobenzone and Radical Scavenging

Avobenzone, one of the most commonly used UV filters in topical sunscreens, is susceptible to photodegradation with a consequential reduction of its UV absorbing properties. This loss of function may lead to skin irritation, photodermatosis, and photoallergic reactions caused by photodegradation byproducts. In this work, we aim to address this issue with a substance named methoxy-monobenzoylmethane (MeO-MBM), which is neither a UVB nor a UVA filter, but which converts to avobenzone, a known and approved UVA filter, under mainly UVB light irradiation. The antioxidant and intracellular radical formation properties of MeO-MBM were compared to the ones of avobenzone. The UV irradiation of MeO-MBM led to an increase in UV absorption primarily in the UVA range after conversion, both in vitro and in vivo. HPTLC and UHPLC studies illustrate the conversion of MeO-MBM to avobenzone in vitro after irradiation at 250 kJ/m², reaching a conversion rate of 48.8%. A stable molecular antioxidant activity was observed, since 100-µM MeO-MBM was measured to be 11.2% in the DPPH assay, with a decrease to 9.7% after irradiation. In comparison, the molecular antioxidant activity of 100-µM avobenzone was determined to be 0.8%. In keratinocytes, MeO-MBM reduces the intracellular ROS by 90% and avobenzone by 75% with tBHP as the inducer and by 53% and 57%, respectively, when induced by pyocyanin, indicating the redox scavenging capacity of both these molecules. These results indicate that MeO-MBM functions initially as an antioxidant material and as a photoantioxidant during its conversion process to avobenzone. This research provides insight into the development of active ingredients for topical applications with dynamic functionalities. Using this approach, we demonstrate the possibility to extend the UV protection offered to skin cells while combating cellular stress in parallel.

Preclinical and clinical studies to evaluate cutaneous biodistribution, safety and efficacy of UV filters encapsulated in mesoporous silica SBA-15

Innovative technologies have been designed to improve efficacy and safety of chemical UV filters. Encapsulation can enhance efficacy and reduce transdermal permeation and systemic exposure. The aims of this work were (i) to determine the cutaneous biodistribution of avobenzone (AVO), oxybenzone (OXY), and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) incorporated in mesoporous silica SBA-15 and (ii) to perform preclinical (in vitro) and (iii) clinical safety studies to demonstrate their innocuity and to evaluate sun protection factor (SPF) in humans. Skin penetration studies showed that deposition of OXY and AVO in porcine and human skin after application of stick formulation with incorporated filters (stick incorporated filters) was significantly lower than from a marketed (non-encapsulated) stick. Cutaneous deposition and transdermal permeation of OXY in and across human skin were 3.8-and 13.4- fold lower, respectively, after application of stick entrapped filters. Biodistribution results showed that encapsulation in SBA-15 decreased AVO and OXY penetration reaching porcine and human dermis. Greater deposition (and permeation) of OXY in porcine skin than in human skin, pointed to the role of follicular transport. Stick incorporated filters had good biocompatibility in vivo and safety profiles, even under sun-exposed conditions. Entrapment of UV filters improved the SPF by 26% and produced the same SPF profile as a marketed stick. Overall, the results showed that SBA-15 enabled safety and efficacy of UV filters to be increased.

Zinc oxide-induced changes to sunscreen ingredient efficacy and toxicity under UV irradiation

Sunscreen safety and efficacy is generally evaluated based upon the properties of the individual chemicals in a formulation. However, the photostability of sunscreens has been shown to be highly dependent on the mixture of chemicals present. To better understand how sunscreen formulation influences stability, and to establish a foundation for probing the influence of zinc oxide additives, we formulated five different small-molecule based ultraviolet-filter (UV-filter) mixtures with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 15. These mixtures contained active ingredients approved in either the United States or European Union and were designed to represent formulations of actual products on the market. We evaluated the photostability and toxicity of these mixtures in the absence and presence of zinc oxide after UV exposure for two hours. Changes in UV absorbance were minimal for all five small-molecule-based mixtures without zinc oxide. The presence of either micro- or nano-sized zinc oxide caused significant small-molecule photodegradation and the degraded mixtures exhibited higher levels of toxicity in embryonic zebrafish assays. This study suggests that caution must be taken when formulating sunscreens containing both zinc oxide and small-molecule UV-filters to avoid unintended consequences during use.

Mechanistic Aspects of the Photophysics of UVA Filters Based on Meldrum Derivatives

Skin photoprotection against UVA radiation is crucial, but it is hindered by the sparsity of approved commercial UVA filters. Sinapoyl malate (SM) derivatives are promising candidates for a new class of UVA filters. They have been previously identified as an efficient photoprotective sunscreen in plants due to their fast nonradiative energy dissipation. Combining experimental and computational results, in our previous letter (J. Phys. Chem. Lett. 2021, 12, 337-344) we showed that coumaryl Meldrum (CMe) and sinapoyl Meldrum (SMe) are outstanding candidates for UVA filters in sunscreen formulations. Here, we deliver a comprehensive computational characterization of the excited-state dynamics of these molecules. Using reaction pathways and excited-state dynamics simulations, we could elucidate the photodeactivation mechanism of these molecules. Upon photoexcitation, they follow a two-step logistic decay. First, an ultrafast and efficient relaxation stabilizes the excited state alongside a 90° twisting around the allylic double bond, giving rise to a minimum with a twisted intramolecular excited-state (TICT) character. From this minimum, internal conversion to the ground state occurs after overcoming a 0.2 eV barrier. Minor differences in the nonradiative decay and fluorescence of CMe and SMe are associated with an additional minimum present only in the latter.

Quality Control of Vitamins A and E and Coenzyme Q10 in Commercial Anti-Ageing Cosmetic Products

Vitamins A and E and coenzyme Q10 are common ingredients in anti-ageing cosmetic products. Within this study, we evaluated the quality of commercial cosmetics with vitamin A (35 products), vitamin E (49 products), and coenzyme Q10 (27 products) by using validated HPLC–UV methods. Vitamin A was determined as retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, β carotene, and hydroxypinacolone retinoate in concentrations ranging from 950 ng/g to 19 mg/g. Total vitamin A contents, expressed with retinol equivalents, ranged from 160 ng/g to 19 mg/g, and were above the maximum concentration recommended by the SCCS in six of the 35 tested cosmetics. The content-related quality control of 10 cosmetics with specified vitamin A content revealed significant deviations (between 0% and 400%) of the label claim. Vitamin E was determined as both tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate in concentrations between 8.5 µg/g and 16 mg/g. Coenzyme Q10 was determined as ubiquinone in 24 tested cosmetics, which labelled it, in concentrations between 4.2 µg/g and 100 µg/g. Labelling irregularities were observed in all three active compound groups, resulting in a significant share (42%) of improperly labelled cosmetic products. The results of this study reveal the need for stricter cosmetics regulation and highlight the importance of their quality control, especially by evaluating the contents of the active compounds, in their efficacy and safety assurance.

Sunscreens Containing Cyclodextrin Inclusion Complexes for Enhanced Efficiency: A Strategy for Skin Cancer Prevention

Unprotected exposure of skin to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) may damage the DNA of skin cells and can lead to skin cancer. Sunscreens are topical formulations used to protect skin against UVR. The active ingredients of sunscreens are UV filters that absorb, scatter, and/or reflect UVR. Preventing the formation of free radicals and repairing DNA damages, natural antioxidants are also added to sunscreens as a second fold of protection against UVR. Antioxidants can help stabilise these formulations during the manufacturing process and upon application on skin. However, UV filters and antioxidants are both susceptible to degradation upon exposure to sunlight and oxygen. Additionally, due to their poor water solubility, natural antioxidants are challenging to formulate and exhibit limited penetration and bioavailability in the site of action (i.e., deeper skin layers). Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides that are capable of forming inclusion complexes with poorly soluble drugs, such as antioxidants. In this review, we discuss the use of CDs inclusion complexes to enhance the aqueous solubility of antioxidants and chemical UV filters and provide a protective shield against degradative factors. The role of CDs in providing a controlled drug release profile from sunscreens is also discussed. Finally, incorporating CDs inclusion complexes into sunscreens has the potential to increase their efficiency and hence improve their skin cancer prevention.

Effects of UV-filter Photostabilizers in the Photostability and Phototoxicity of Vitamin A Palmitate Combined with Avobenzone and Octyl Methoxycinnamate

A challenge for cosmetic and dermatologic products is to develop new high-performance and safer anti-aging products based on new compounds to enhance the stability of retinyl palmitate combined with broad-spectrum UV-filters. Consequently, the aim of this work was to evaluate the effects of three often used avobenzone photostabilizers-ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (EHMCR), tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate (TTMHP) and tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT)-on the photostability and phototoxicity of the combination of avobenzone (AVO), octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and retinyl palmitate (RP). The photostability studies were performed by the exposure of formulations to UVA radiation. The phototoxicity was evaluated by the 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxic assay (OECD TG 432). The addition of EHMCR, TBPT, and TTMHP in the formulations, with/or without RP, improved the photostability of AVO and RP, but EHMCR was the most effective in stabilizing RP. In the phototoxicity assay, the combinations AVO-OMC containing or not RP showed phototoxic potential. EHMCR and TTMHP reduced the phototoxicity of the combination AVO-OMC, whereas EHMCR also decreased the phototoxicity of the combination containing RP. Therefore, EHMCR might be used to the photostabilization of formulations of AVO-OMC with/or not RP, while TTMHP can be added to this photounstable UV-filter combination.

Sunscreens and their usefulness: have we made any progress in the last two decades?

Sunscreens have now been around for decades to mitigate the Sun's damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation which, although essential for the existence of life, is a recognized prime carcinogen. Accordingly, have suncreams achieved their intended purposes towards protection against sunburns, skin photo-ageing and the like? Most importantly, however, have they provided the expected protection against skin cancers that current sunscreen products claim to do? In the last two decades, there have been tens, if not hundreds of studies on sunscreens with respect to skin protection against UVB (280‒320 nm)-traditionally sunscreens with rather low sun protection factors (SPF) were intended to protect against this type of radiation-and UVA (320‒400 nm) radiation; a distinction between SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) is made. Many of the studies of the last two decades have focused on protection against the more skin-penetrating UVA radiation. This non-exhaustive article reviews some of the important facets of what is currently known about sunscreens with regard (i) to the physical UV filters titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) and the mostly photo-unstable chemical UVB/UVA filters (e.g., octinoxate (OMC) and avobenzone (AVO), among others), (ii) to novel chemical sunscreen agents, (iii) to means that minimize the breakdown of chemical filters and improve their stability when exposed to UV sunlight, (iv) to SPF factors, and (v) to a short discussion on non-melanoma skin cancers and melanoma. Importantly, throughout the article we allude to the safety aspects of sunscreens and at the end ask the question: do active ingredients in sunscreen products pose a risk to human health, and what else can be done to enhance protection? Significant loss of skin protection from two well-known commercial suncreams when exposed to simulated UV sunlight. Cream I: titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, and octinoxate; Cream II: octyl salicylate, oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate.

New Generation UV-A Filters: Understanding Their Photodynamics on a Human Skin Mimic

The sparsity of efficient commercial ultraviolet-A (UV-A) filters is a major challenge toward developing effective broadband sunscreens with minimal human- and eco-toxicity. To combat this, we have designed a new class of Meldrum-based phenolic UV-A filters. We explore the ultrafast photodynamics of coumaryl Meldrum, CMe, and sinapyl Meldrum (SMe), both in an industry-standard emollient and on a synthetic skin mimic, using femtosecond transient electronic and vibrational absorption spectroscopies and computational simulations. Upon photoexcitation to the lowest excited singlet state (S₁), these Meldrum-based phenolics undergo fast and efficient nonradiative decay to repopulate the electronic ground state (S₀). We propose an initial ultrafast twisted intramolecular charge-transfer mechanism as these systems evolve out of the Franck-Condon region toward an S₁/S₀ conical intersection, followed by internal conversion to S₀ and subsequent vibrational cooling. Importantly, we correlate these findings to their long-term photostability upon irradiation with a solar simulator and conclude that these molecules surpass the basic requirements of an industry-standard UV filter.

Development of a nanotechnological-based hydrogel containing a novel benzofuroazepine compound in association with vitamin E: An in vitro biological safety and photoprotective hydrogel

This study aimed to evaluate the potential DNA photoprotection of nano-based hydrogels containing a novel benzofuroazepine molecule. Photoprotective property of three benzofuroazepine derivative compounds was assessed by determining a UV light absorptive profile. Nanocapsule suspensions (Eudragit® RS 100 as polymeric wall and medium-chain triglyceride or vitamin E as oil core) containing the benzofuroazepine compound that had the best UV spectral absorption were developed and physicochemically characterized. Photostability assay, bioadhesive property as well as preliminary toxicity parameters (HET-CAM and Artemia salina lethality assays) for free or nanoencapsulated forms were assessed. Among the molecules, the UV absorbance spectrum of free MBBA showed a broad and high intensity absorbance at UVB and UVA ranges. MBBA-nanocapsule suspensions had nanometric and homogeneous size distribution, bioadhesiveness property, and increased the UV light scattering in comparison to the free compound. Besides, all formulations triggered no irritative responses and the nanoencapsulation mitigated the toxic effect to Artemia salina observed to free MBBA. Following, hydrogels were prepared by thickening nanocapsule suspensions with gellan gum and their DNA photoprotection properties were determined by the exposure of DNA samples to the UVB and UVA radiation. Hydrogels showed acid pH values, compound content close to the theoretical value (3 mg/g), particle size in nanometric range, and spreadability profile suitable for cutaneous application. All MBBA hydrogels were effective against photoproducts formation induced by UVB and UVA radiation. In conclusion, these data show the identification of a compound with promising UV absorptive potential and the preparation of a final nano-based hydrogel for cutaneous application.

Ultraviolet light screen using cholesteric liquid crystal capsules on the basis of selective reflection

When the prepared cholesteric liquid crystal microcapsule is applied to the skin, it can protect the skin by selectively reflecting only ultraviolet rays in sunlight like sunscreen cosmetics.

A systematic review and ecological risk assessment for organic ultraviolet filters in aquatic environments

Organic ultraviolet filters (OUVFs) are used in a wide range of manufactured products including personal care (e.g. sunscreens) and plastic items. This review summarizes the available data regarding the toxic effects of OUVFs on marine and freshwater organisms and generates the predicted no-effect concentration (PNEC) values necessary for assessing ecological risk. Through a systematic search of the literature, 89 studies were identified and ecotoxicological data extracted. Collectively, these studies described toxicity testing with 39 OUVF from 10 structural classes, with derivatives of benzophenones (49%) and camphors (16%) most studied. There was a bias towards selecting freshwater species (61%), and evaluating single OUVF effects (87%) rather than OUVF mixtures. Short-term (acute) experimentation (58%) was marginally more common than long-term (chronic) testing (42%). Reproductive, developmental, genetic, and neurological toxicity were the most commonly identified effects in aquatic organism, and were associated with molecular interactions with steroid receptors, DNA, or the production of reactive oxygen species. Species sensitivity distribution and/or assessment factors were used to calculate PNECs for 22 OUVFs and the risk quotients for 12 OUVFs. When using maximum concentrations, high risk was observed for six OUVFs in marine environments (4-methylbenzylidene-camphor, octocrylene, padimate-O, benzophenone-1, and oxybenzone, ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate), and for four OUVFs in freshwater environments (ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, avobenzone and oxybenzone). When using median concentrations, a risk to marine environments was observed for oxybenzone. The results of this review underline that there is limited knowledge of the pathological effects of OUVFs and their metabolites in aquatic environments, and this inhibits the development of informed water-quality guidelines.

Animal- free skin permeation analysis using mass spectrometry imaging

Here we demonstrate an animal-free skin permeation analytical approach suitable for testing pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, occupational skin hazards and skin allergens. The method aims to replace or significantly reduce existing in-vivo models and improve on already established in-vitro models. This by offering a more sensitive and flexible analytical approach that can replace and/or complement existing methods in the OECD guidelines for skin adsorption (no 427 and no 428) and measure multiple compounds simultaneously in the skin while being able to also trace endogenous effects in cells. We demonstrate this here by studying how active ingredients in sunscreen permeate through left-over human skin, from routine surgery, in a in a Franz-cell permeation model. Two common sunscreens were therefore applied to the human skin and Time of flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) was used to trace the molecules through the skin. We show that that ToF-SIMS imaging can be applied in visualizing the distribution of Avobenzone, Bemotrizinol, Biscotrizole and Ethyl hexyl triazine at subcellular resolution in the skin. The UV-blockers could be visualized at the same time in one single experiment without any probes or antibodies used. The UV-blockers mostly remained in the stratum corneum. However, in certain features of the skin, such as sebaceous glands, the penetration of the UV-blockers was more prominent, and the compounds reached deeper into the epidermis.

Safety and Photoprotective Efficacy of a Sunscreen System Based on Grape Pomace (Vitis vinifera L.) Phenolics from Winemaking

In winemaking, a large amount of grape pomace is produced that is rich in polyphenolics and highly beneficial for human health, as phenols are useful for skin ultraviolet (UV) protection. In this investigation, we evaluated the safety and clinical efficacy of a sunscreen system containing a grape pomace extract from Vitis vinifera L. as a bioactive ingredient. The recovery of phenolics in the waste was performed by percolation. Nine emulsions were developed using a factorial design and two were evaluated clinically: Formulation E, containing only UV filters (butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA), and F, with the extract at 10.0% w/w + UV filters. The antioxidant activity was determined by the DPPH assay and the in vitro efficacy was established by sun protection factor (SPF) measurements (Labsphere UV-2000S). Clinical tests were performed to determine safety (human repeated insult patch test) and to confirm efficacy (photoprotective effectiveness in participants). The results showed a synergistic effect between the sunscreen system and the extract on UVB protection and antioxidant activity. Both samples were considered safe. Formulation F was 20.59% more efficient in protecting skin against UVB radiation, taking approximately 21% more time to induce erythema compared to the extract-free sample.

Exploring the Inclusion Complex of a Drug (Umbelliferone) with α-Cyclodextrin Optimized by Molecular Docking and Increasing Bioavailability with Minimizing the Doses in Human Body

In this study, umbelliferone and α-cyclodextrin host molecules have been mixed up through a coprecipitation method to prepare a supramolecular complex to provide physical insights into the formation and stability of the inclusion complex (IC). The prepared hybrid was characterized by ¹H nuclear magnetic resonance (¹H NMR), Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, electrospray ionization (ESI) mass spectrometry, DSC, and fluorescence spectroscopic studies. Job's plot provides a stoichiometric ratio of 1:1 and the Benesi-Hildebrand double reciprocal plot gives binding constant values using fluorescence spectroscopic titrations and the ESI mass data support the experimental observations. The results of molecular modeling were systematically analyzed to validate the inclusion complexation. In preliminary computational screening, α-cyclodextrin IC of umbelliferone was found to be quite stable based on the docking score, binding free energies, and dynamic simulations. In addition, the results obtained from ¹H NMR and FTIR spectroscopy studies supported the inclusion complexation phenomenon. The results obtained from computational studies were found to be consistent with the experimental data to ascertain the encapsulation of umbelliferone into α-cyclodextrin.

Computational and experimental characterization of novel ultraviolet filters

Many current ultraviolet filters present potential hazards both to humans and to the natural environment. As such there is a new impetus to develop, through intimate characterisation, ultraviolet filters for use in cosmeceuticals. Here we report a new class of organic molecules which have a strong absorption band across the ultraviolet-A and -B regions of the electromagnetic spectrum and high photostability. We have performed ultrafast transient electronic absorption spectroscopy and steady-state spectroscopies, alongside computational studies to track and manipulate photoprotection mechanisms. Our results present a potentially new generation of ultraviolet filters for use in commercial formulations.

Effect of grape seed extract on skin fibroblasts exposed to UVA light and its photostability in sunscreen formulation

BACKGROUND

Grape seed extract (GSE) is rich in polyphenolic compounds, particularly (+)-catechin (C) and (-)-epicatechin (EC). Strong antioxidant activity of these compounds makes GSE to be value-added to the cosmetics with anti-aging properties. However, a lack of stability in different environmental conditions makes GSE challenging for the development of photostable cosmetic sunscreen products.

AIMS

To evaluate photoprotective effects of GSE on human dermal fibroblasts irradiated with UVA light and assess photostability of catechins in cream formulations containing GSE alone or in combination with octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC).

METHODS

MTT assay was used to assess protective effects of GSE on fibroblasts irradiated with UVA light. A photostability of C and EC in GSE and in cream formulation containing GSE was investigated using high-performance liquid chromatography and confirmed by reflection and transmission spectrophotometry using Transpore™ tapes and polymethacrylate (PMMA) plates as substrates.

RESULTS

High UVA doses damaged fibroblast structure and inhibited their growth. However, GSE increased cell viability and effectively protected them from UVA damage. Photostability of C and EC was achieved by combination of GSE and OMC that also improved absorption capacity of UV filter and increased overall efficacy of formulation. PMMA plates showed better applicability for in vitro photostability testing of sunscreen formulations. However, despite the instability of Transpore® tape under heat from UV exposure, it can still be economically a substrate of alternative choice for screening.

CONCLUSIONS

GSE can be used as an effective and sustainable natural resource for prevention of UV-induced skin damage providing long-term protection against premature skin aging.

Schinus terebenthifolius Raddi extracts: From sunscreen activity toward protection of the placenta to Zika virus infection, new uses for a well-known medicinal plant

Schinus terebinthifolius Raddi is a well-known medicinal plant native of South America. This species has demonstrated important biological activities such as antihypertensive and vasodilator, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. However, no studies have been, so far, reported with the fruits of S. terebinthifolius as a protector of the placenta against Zika virus infection and as sunscreen agents. The present study aimed to investigate new uses for the ethanolic fruit extracts of S. terebinthifolius, from fruits'peel (STPE) and from the whole fruits (STWFE). Zika virus (ZIKV) has been linked to several fetal malformations, such as microcephaly and other central nervous system abnormalities. Thus, the potential of these natural extracts against ZIKV infection was evaluated, using an in vitro method. The photoprotective potential, determined by spectrometry, along with phenolic content, antioxidant capacity, and chemical composition of both extracts were also evaluated. The chemical composition of the extracts was evaluated by HPLC-UV / vis. The cytotoxicity of peel and whole fruit extracts in vero E6 cell lines, in placental cell lines and placental explant cultures were evaluated by the MTT assay. The infectivity of placental cells and explants was evaluated by qRT-PCR and the effects of extracts on ZIKV infection were investigated using HTR-8/SVneo cells, pre-treated with 100 μg mL^-1 of STWFE for 1 h, and infected with MR766 (AD) or PE243 (EH) ZIKV strains. STFE and STWFE were well-tolerated by both placental-derived trophoblast cell line HTR-8/SVneo as well as by term placental chorionic villi explants, which indicate absence of cytotoxicity in all analysed concentrations. Two strains of ZIKV were tested to access if pre-treatment of trophoblast cells with the STWFE would protect them against infection. Flow cytometry analysis revealed that STWFE extract greatly reduced ZIKV infection. The extracts were also photoprotective with SPF values equivalent to the standard, benzophenone-3. The formulations prepared in different concentrations of the extracts (5-10 %) had shown maximum SPF values of 32.21. STWFE represents a potential natural mixture to be used in pregnancy in order to restrain placental infection by ZIKV and might potentially protect fetus against ZIKV-related malformations. The extracts exhibited photoprotective activity and some of the phenolic compounds, mainly resveratrol, catechin and epicatechin, are active ingredients in all assayed activities. The development of biotechnological/medical products, giving extra value to products from family farming, is expected, with strong prospects for success.

Exploring the Photochemistry of an Ethyl Sinapate Dimer: An Attempt Toward a Better Ultraviolet Filter

The photochemistry and photostability of a potential ultraviolet (UV) radiation filter, dehydrodiethylsinapate, with a broad absorption in the UVA region, is explored utilizing a combination of femtosecond time-resolved spectroscopy and steady-state irradiation studies. The time-resolved measurements show that this UV filter candidate undergoes excited state relaxation after UV absorption on a timescale of ~10 picoseconds, suggesting efficient relaxation. However, steady-state irradiation measurements show degradation under prolonged UV exposure. From a photochemical standpoint, this highlights the importance of considering both the ultrafast and “ultraslow” timescales when designing new potential UV filters.