A mechanistic model for the aging of human skin

The Safety and Efficacy of 1-Monoeicosapentaenoin Isolated from the Trebouxiophyceae Micractinium on Anti-Wrinkle: A Split-Face Randomized, Double-Blind Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study

The skin aging process is governed by intrinsic and extrinsic factors causing skin wrinkles, sagging, and loosening. The 1-monoeicosapentaenoin (1-MEST) is a component isolated from Micractinium, a genus of microalgae (Chlorophyta, Trebouxiophyceae). However, the anti-wrinkle effects of 1-MEST are not yet known. This study aimed to evaluate the anti-wrinkle effects of 1-MEST in vitro and in clinical trials. The cytotoxicity of 1-MEST was investigated in vitro using the MTS assay in human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKs). Expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and MMP-9 was determined by ELISA in HEKs irradiated with UVB after treatment with 1-MEST. A split-face randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was conducted to evaluate the safety and efficacy of 1-MEST. The study evaluated wrinkle parameters and visual assessment, self-efficacy and usability questionnaires, and adverse events. The study showed that the 1-MEST was not cytotoxic in HEKs, suppressed MMP-1 secretion and MMP-9 protein expression in HEKs irradiated with UVB. The wrinkle parameters and mean visual assessment score were significantly decreased in the test group after 12 weeks and differed from the control group. There were no significant differences in efficacy and usability. Adverse effects were also not observed. The 1-MEST showed anti-wrinkle properties to slow down or prevent skin aging.

Efficacy of a topical serum containing l-ascorbic acid, neohesperidin, pycnogenol, tocopherol and hyaluronic acid in relation to skin aging signs

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is a process regulated by chronological aging and amplified by exposome factors including chronic UV exposure and pollution, which both induce reactive oxygen species. Topical antioxidants have the potential to counteract this process and to improve skin aging signs, including wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the efficacy of a topical antioxidant serum containing 15% L-ascorbic acid, neohesperidin, Pinus pinaster bark, tocopherol and hyaluronic acid (HA) ex vivo on air pollution-induced pigmentation and gene expression, as well as in vivo on skin aging signs in Brazilian volunteers, after 90 days of use.

METHODS

Ex vivo human skin samples were repetitively exposed to Diesel Exhaust Particles (DEP) and subsequently analyzed for changes in pigmentation and gene expression. Clinical efficacy was evaluated in 40 healthy adult females with phototype II to IV and visible photoaging signs, including facial hyperpigmentation, through dermatological evaluation and instrumental analysis including Reflectance Confocal Microscopy.

RESULTS

Ex vivo, the topical anti-oxidant serum significantly reduced DEP-induced skin pigmentation and expression of proinflammatory genes. A significant improvement of skin aging signs was observed after 90 days. Local tolerance was good.

CONCLUSION

The tested serum is effective in protecting human skin ex vivo against air pollution-induced skin pigmentation/aging and reduced in vivo skin aging signs, with a good safety profile after 90 days of daily use.

Development of Skin-On-A-Chip Platforms for Different Utilizations: Factors to Be Considered

There is increasing interest in miniaturized technologies in diagnostics, therapeutic testing, and biomedicinal fundamental research. The same is true for the dermal studies in topical drug development, dermatological disease pathology testing, and cosmetic science. This review aims to collect the recent scientific literature and knowledge about the application of skin-on-a-chip technology in drug diffusion studies, in pharmacological and toxicological experiments, in wound healing, and in fields of cosmetic science (ageing or repair). The basic mathematical models are also presented in the article to predict physical phenomena, such as fluid movement, drug diffusion, and heat transfer taking place across the dermal layers in the chip using Computational Fluid Dynamics techniques. Soon, it can be envisioned that animal studies might be at least in part replaced with skin-on-a-chip technology leading to more reliable results close to study on humans. The new technology is a cost-effective alternative to traditional methods used in research institutes, university labs, and industry. With this article, the authors would like to call attention to a new investigational family of platforms to refresh the researchers’ theranostics and preclinical, experimental toolbox.

Coenzyme Q10 Efficacy Test for Human Skin Equivalents Using a Pumpless Skin-On-A-Chip System

A human skin equivalent (HSE) composed of the epidermis and dermis is cultured using a pumpless skin-on-a-chip system to supply cultures the desired flow rate using gravity flow without a pump or an external tube connection. Coenzyme Q10 efficacy is tested by adjusting its concentration, as it is known to have anti-aging and antioxidant effects in culture solutions. The relationship between the contraction rate of a full-thickness human skin equivalent and secreted transforming growth factor (TGF) β-1 is analyzed via enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). Following hematoxylin and eosin (H&E) staining, an image of the skin equivalent is analyzed to measure the epidermal layer’s thickness. The cell density and differentiation of the dermis layer are investigated. Gene and protein expression in the dermal and epidermal layers are quantitatively analyzed using quantitative real time polymerase chain reaction (qPCR) and immunohistochemical staining. As the coenzyme Q10 treatment concentration increased, the number of cells per unit area and the thickness of the epidermal layer increased, the expression level of filaggrin increased, and the contraction rate of full-thickness HSE was proportional to the amount of TGF β-1 secreted.

Improvements in Skin Quality Biological Markers in Skin Explants Using Hyaluronic Acid Filler VYC-12L

Hyaluronic acid (HA), both crosslinked and uncrosslinked, is used clinically to treat fine lines and provides additional improvements in skin quality attributes. The purpose of this study was to assess potential early differences in the expression of biological markers of skin quality in living human skin explants injected with uncrosslinked and crosslinked HA gels.

Methods

Living human skin explants injected with VYC-12L or noncrosslinked HA with mannitol (HYD) and noninjected controls were assessed via microscopy, histology, and immunohistochemistry on days 3 and/or 8 for biological markers of elasticity (collagen density, elastin, fibrillin-1) and hydration [aquaporin-3, acidic glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), HA]. Hydration was also assessed via a corneometer probe on days 0, 1, 2, and 8.

Results

On day 3 versus controls, VYC-12L moderately increased collagen density in the upper reticular dermis and clearly increased fibrillin-1 expression, with slight increases persisting on day 8. Increases with HYD were smaller and did not persist on day 8. Both VYC-12L and HYD increased aquaporin-3 expression and GAG content on days 3 and 8, but VYC-12L produced greater GAG increases in the reticular dermis. Day 8 instrument-assessed hydration increased by 49% and 22% for VYC-12L and HYD, respectively. Elastin expression in oxytalan and elaunin fibers was unchanged. Upper-dermal HA reductions suggested HA injection-induced hyaluronidase expression.

Conclusion

VYC-12L produced greater, more lasting improvements in biological markers of skin quality than HYD.

Appearance of aging signs in differently pigmented facial skin by a novel imaging system

Background

Facial wrinkles, pores, and uneven skin tone are major beauty concerns. There is differential manifestation of aging signs in different ethnic groups. In this regard, studies on Black Africans from the African continent are scarce.

Objective

To investigate facial wrinkles, pores, and skin tone in Black African women from Mauritius Island and elucidate the differences to Caucasian women from France.

Methods

Facial images were taken using the imaging system ColorFace^®. Wrinkles and pores were measured by their length, depth, surface, volume, and number; for skin tone, we measured L*a*b* and calculated ITA, IWA_Newtone, and color homogeneity.

Results

We found good correlations of wrinkle and pore scores with expert ranking done on ColorFace^® images for Caucasians (Spearman's rho = 0.78 and 0.72) and Black Africans (Spearman's rho = 0.86 and 0.65). Caucasians showed more advanced facial signs of aging than Black Africans. Exceptions were vertical lines on upper lip and the depth of pores which were greatest for the Black African subjects. Black Africans had higher heterogeneity scores indicative for uneven skin tone. Luminance (L*) was significantly higher in Caucasians but a* and b* values were significantly higher in the Black African subjects. ITA and IWA_Newtone were significantly higher for Caucasians.

Conclusions

The high correlation between expert ranking and wrinkle and pore measurements prove ColorFace^® a valid imaging system to study skin aging. Our results show that Africans from the African continent show delayed signs of aging compared to Caucasians. Some exceptions suggest that ethnic differences in facial aging are a complex phenomenon.

An overview about oxidation in clinical practice of skin aging

Free radicals are unstable chemical species, highly reactive, being formed by cellular entities of different tissues. Increased production of these species without proper effective action of endogenous and exogenous antioxidant systems, generates a condition of oxidative stress, potentially provider of skin disorders that extend from functional impairments (skin cancer, dermatitis, chronic and acute inflammatory processes) even aesthetic character, with the destruction of structural proteins and cellular changes with the appearance of stains, marks and lines of expressions and other signs inherent to the intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging process. The antioxidants are chemical substances commonly used in clinical practice for topical application and may contribute in the fight against the radical species responsible for many skin damage. This paper summarized the main evidence of the benefits brought by the topical application of antioxidants in the skin, considering the amplitude of the indicative performance of antioxidant activity by in vitro and ex-vivo tests as well as in vivo tests. It is recognized that a breadth of product performance tests should be explored to truly identify the effectiveness of antioxidant products for an anti-aging effect.

Resveratrol prevents oxidative stress-induced senescence and proliferative dysfunction by activating the AMPK-FOXO3 cascade in cultured primary human keratinocytes

The aging process is perceived as resulting from a combination of intrinsic factors such as changes in intracellular signaling and extrinsic factors, most notably environmental stressors. In skin, the relationship between intrinsic changes and keratinocyte function is not clearly understood. Previously, we found that increasing the activity of AMP-activated protein kinase (AMPK) suppressed senescence in hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂)-treated human primary keratinocytes, a model of oxidative stress-induced cellular aging. Using this model in the present study, we observed that resveratrol, an agent that increases the activities of both AMPK and sirtuins, ameliorated two age-associated phenotypes: cellular senescence and proliferative dysfunction. In addition, we found that treatment of keratinocytes with Ex527, a specific inhibitor of sirtuin 1 (SIRT1), attenuated the ability of resveratrol to suppress senescence. In keeping with the latter observation, we noted that compared to non-senescent keratinocytes, senescent cells lacked SIRT1. In addition to these effects on H₂O₂-induced senescence, resveratrol also prevented the H₂O₂-induced decrease in proliferation (as indicated by ³H-thymidine incorporation) in the presence of insulin. This effect was abrogated by inhibition of AMPK but not SIRT1. Compared to endothelium, we found that human keratinocytes expressed relatively high levels of Forkhead box O3 (FOXO3), a downstream target of both AMPK and SIRT1. Treatment of keratinocytes with resveratrol transactivated FOXO3 and increased the expression of its target genes including catalase. Resveratrol’s effects on both senescence and proliferation disappeared when FOXO3 was knocked down. Finally, we performed an exploratory study which showed that skin from humans over 50 years old had lower AMPK activity than skin from individuals under age 20. Collectively, these findings suggest that the effects of resveratrol on keratinocyte senescence and proliferation are regulated by the AMPK-FOXO3 pathway and in some situations, but not all, by SIRT1.

The novel PPAR α/γ dual agonist MHY 966 modulates UVB-induced skin inflammation by inhibiting NF-κB activity

Ultraviolet B (UVB; 290~320nm) irradiation-induced lipid peroxidation induces inflammatory responses that lead to skin wrinkle formation and epidermal thickening. Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) α/γ dual agonists have the potential to be used as anti-wrinkle agents because they inhibit inflammatory response and lipid peroxidation. In this study, we evaluated the function of 2-bromo-4-(5-chloro-benzo[d]thiazol-2-yl) phenol (MHY 966), a novel synthetic PPAR α/γ dual agonist, and investigated its anti-inflammatory and anti-lipid peroxidation effects. The action of MHY 966 as a PPAR α/γ dual agonist was also determined in vitro by reporter gene assay. Additionally, 8-week-old melanin-possessing hairless mice 2 (HRM2) were exposed to 150 mJ/cm² UVB every other day for 17 days and MHY 966 was simultaneously pre-treated every day for 17 days to investigate the molecular mechanisms involved. MHY 966 was found to stimulate the transcriptional activities of both PPAR α and γ. In HRM2 mice, we found that the skins of mice exposed to UVB showed significantly increased pro-inflammatory mediator levels (NF-κB, iNOS, and COX-2) and increased lipid peroxidation, whereas MHY 966 co-treatment down-regulated these effects of UVB by activating PPAR α and γ. Thus, the present study shows that MHY 966 exhibits beneficial effects on inflammatory responses and lipid peroxidation by simultaneously activating PPAR α and γ. The major finding of this study is that MHY 966 demonstrates potential as an agent against wrinkle formation associated with chronic UVB exposure.

Effects of a sunscreen formulation on albino hairless mice: a morphological approach

The purpose of the study was to evaluate the effects of a sunscreen formulation on the skin of albino hairless mice subjected to simulated solar light (SSL) in terms of morphological changes. Young adult albino hairless mice HRS/J (n = 36) were used as an experimental model for determining skin photoaging changes. Mice were irradiated with SSL, and the sunscreen (estimated SPF 30, PF-UVA) was obtained from the Pharmacy College/UFRJ, Brazil. The animals were divided into four groups: non-treated (G1), radiation only (G2), sunscreen-treated (G3) and vehicle + radiation (G4). Animals from groups G2, G3 and G4 were irradiated weekly (5 weeks), with no immobilization. One week after the final exposure, the dorsal skin was observed using a dermatoscopic camera. Biopsies were analyzed in order to quantify neovascularization and to evaluate histological aspects of the skin. Neovascularization was also evaluated with immunohistochemical reactions for the Von Willebrand factor. Animals from G2 displayed classical morphological changes denoting skin photoaging: thickening of the epidermis, increased dermal cellularity, follicular keratosis, sebaceous gland hyperplasia, and angiogenesis. Animals from groups G3 and G1 displayed similar morphological profiles, without these changes. Animals from group G4 showed more morphological changes than group G2, emphasizing the relative importance of the putative photosensitizing components present in the vehicle formulation. The extent of the morphological skin changes suggested that the sunscreen formulation was effective against SSL, and showed the importance of assessing the phototoxicity of vehicle formulations.

The utilization of nonthermal blue (405–425 nm) and near infrared (850–890 nm) light in aesthetic dermatology and surgery—a multicenter study

BACKGROUND

A major cause of skin aging is a chronic micro-inflammation triggered by UV radiation and external pollutants. It has been demonstrated that blue light diminishes inflammatory conditions and near infrared light enhances circulation.

OBJECTIVES

To assess the effectiveness of a non thermal dual wavelength -- blue (405 - 420 nm) and near infrared (850 - 900 nm) -- light source in skin rejuvenation, in the reduction of the duration of post skin resurfacing erythema and in the acceleration of healing of post surgical conditions (face lift and breast augmentation).

METHODS

We have utilized a non contact, hand free dual wavelength light source (iClearXL and Clear100XL, Curelight Ltd) to treat over 60 patients and perform three controlled studies in four centers. Follow up duration was three months. Control group for photo-rejuvenation consisted of patients treated with Glycolic peeling and daily appliance of vitamin C Control group for post skin resurfacing erythema duration consisted of patients untreated by the light source and control group for post surgical healing consisted of patients untreated by the light source or treated by the light source on one side only.

RESULTS

Post skin resurfacing erythema duration is reduced by 90%. The healing of post surgical conditions is substantially accelerated and discomfort is reduced. The anti aging effect of the light source includes: reduction of pore size in 90% of patients with stable results at three months follow up, enhanced skin radiance in 90% of patients with stable results at three months follow up and smoothing of fine wrinkles in 45% of patients with stable results at three months follow up. The control group showed poor results which were stable for a duration of less than one month.

CONCLUSIONS

A non thermal, non contact / hand free light source emitting at 405-420 nm and 850-900 nm considerably enhances aesthetic and surgical aesthetic procedures without consuming user time.

Use of Nonthermal Blue (405- to 420-nm) and Near-Infrared Light (850- to 900-nm) Dual-Wavelength System in Combination with Glycolic Acid Peels and Topical Vitamin C for Skin Photorejuvenation

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVES

A major cause of skin aging is a chronic microinflammation created by environmental conditions and ultraviolet exposures. The hand-free application on the skin of a new intense light combining a narrowband blue-light (405- to 420-nm) antiinflammatory emission and a near-infrared (850- to 890-nm) emission inducing self-defense mechanisms provides a new component to photorejuvenation and antiaging treatment protocols.

STUDY DESIGN

An innovative skin rejuvenation schedule is presented in this study. It includes skin exposure to the light, with concomitant glycolic peels and daily vitamin C cream regimen for group A and only topical vitamin C cream and glycolic peels for control group B.

RESULTS

Results show a significant improvement on pore size, rhytids, and radiance in group A. Conversely no improvement is noticed in group B except for a brief increase of skin radiance. Mechanisms of action of that specific light source are discussed.

CONCLUSION

The exposure to this device can clinically enhance conventional antiaging protocols in skin rejuvenation.