Antioxidants and vitamins in cosmetics

Microspheres Based on Blends of Chitosan Derivatives with Carrageenan as Vitamin Carriers in Cosmeceuticals

Chitosan (CS) has a natural origin and is a biodegradable and biocompatible polymer with many skin-beneficial properties successfully used in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industry. CS derivatives, especially those synthesized via a Schiff base reaction, are very important due to their unique antimicrobial activity. This study demonstrates research results on the use of hydrogel microspheres made of [chitosan-graft-poly(ε-caprolactone)]-blend-(ĸ-carrageenan)], [chitosan-2-pyridinecarboxaldehyde-graft-poly(ε-caprolactone)]-blend-(ĸ-carrageenan), and chitosan-sodium-4-formylbenzene-1,3-disulfonate-graft-poly(ε-caprolactone)]-blend-(ĸ-carrageenan) as innovative vitamin carriers for cosmetic formulation. A permeation study of retinol (vitamin A), L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), and α-tocopherol (vitamin E) from the cream through a human skin model by the Franz Cell measurement system was presented. The quantitative analysis of the release of the vitamins added to the cream base, through the membrane, imitating human skin, showed a promising profile of its release/penetration, which is promising for the development of a cream with anti-aging properties. Additionally, the antibacterial activity of the polymers from which the microspheres are made allows for the elimination of preservatives and parabens as cosmetic formulation ingredients.

Extraction and antioxidant capacity of mycosporine-like amino acids from red algae in Japan

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are the natural UV-absorbing compounds with antioxidant activity found in microalgae and macroalgae. We collected red algae Asparagopsis taxiformis, Meristotheca japonica, and Polysiphonia senticulosa from Nagasaki, where UV radiation is more intense than in Hokkaido, and investigated the effect of UV radiation on MAA content. It was suggested that A. taxiformis and M. japonica contained shinorine and palythine, while UV-absorbing compound in P. senticulosa could not be identified. The amounts of these MAAs were lower compared to those from Hokkaido. Despite an increase in UV radiation in both regions from February to April, MAA contents of red algae from Nagasaki slightly decreased while those from Hokkaido significantly decreased. This difference was suggested the amount of inorganic nitrogen in the ocean. Antioxidant activity of MAAs increased under alkaline conditions. The extract containing MAAs from P. senticulosa showed the highest antioxidant activity among 4 red algae.

A review of the efficacy of popular eye cream ingredients

Background

Due to the periorbital region's high susceptibility to damage from external factors, along with its tendency to demonstrate early signs of aging, periorbital skin is a common target for antiaging therapy.

Objective

This review aims to evaluate the efficacy of active ingredients commonly found in eye creams, particularly focusing on their impact on periorbital skin concerns.

Methods

A comprehensive review of the literature on active ingredients in eye creams, including retinoids, vitamins C and E, peptides, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, caffeine, and niacinamide, was conducted. Clinical studies assessing the efficacy of these ingredients in addressing periorbital concerns were examined.

Results

Studies demonstrate the potential of these ingredients to improve various aspects of periorbital skin, including hydration, elasticity, collagen synthesis, and reduction of inflammatory mediators. Ingredients such as retinoids, vitamin C, and caffeine show promise in addressing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, while peptides and hyaluronic acid aid in collagen production and hydration. Niacinamide and ceramides offer benefits in reducing wrinkles and enhancing the skin barrier function.

Limitations

The lack of clinical trials specifically targeting eye cream formulations and periorbital skin is a notable limitation. Furthermore, the variability in study designs, sample sizes, and concentrations of active ingredients across studies complicates direct comparisons.

Conclusion

The reviewed studies highlight the potential of active ingredients in eye creams to address various periorbital concerns. Further research, particularly large-scale clinical trials focusing on eye cream formulations and their efficacy on periorbital skin, is warranted to establish their significance and comparability with other dermatologic products.

Impact of antioxidants on PM2.5 oxidative potential, radical level, and cytotoxicity

Antioxidants are typically seen as agents that mitigate environmental health risks due to their ability to scavenge free radicals. However, our research presents a paradox where these molecules, particularly those within lung fluid, act as prooxidants in the presence of airborne particulate matter (PM2.5), thus enhancing PM2.5 oxidative potential (OP). In our study, we examined a range of antioxidants found in the respiratory system (e.g., vitamin C, glutathione (GSH), and N-acetylcysteine (NAC)), in plasma (vitamin A, vitamin E, and β-carotene), and in food (tert-butylhydroquinone (TBHQ)). We aimed to explore antioxidants' prooxidant and antioxidant interactions with PM2.5 and the resulting OP and cytotoxicity. We employed OH generation assays and electron paramagnetic resonance assays to assess the pro-oxidative and anti-oxidative effects of antioxidants. Additionally, we assessed cytotoxicity interaction using a Chinese hamster ovary cell cytotoxicity assay. Our findings revealed that, in the presence of PM2.5, all antioxidants except vitamin E significantly increased the PM2.5 OP by generating more OH radicals (OH generation rate: 0.16-24.67 pmol·min-1·m-3). However, it's noteworthy that these generated OH radicals were at least partially neutralized by the antioxidants themselves. Among the pro-oxidative antioxidants, vitamin A, β-carotene, and TBHQ showed the least ability to quench these radicals, consistent with their observed impact in enhancing PM2.5 cytotoxicity (PM2.5 LC50 reduced to 91.2 %, 88.8 %, and 75.1 % of PM2.5's original level, respectively). Notably, vitamin A and TBHQ-enhanced PM2.5 OP were strongly associated with the presence of metals and organic compounds, particularly with copper (Cu) contributing significantly (35 %) to TBHQ's pro-oxidative effect. Our study underscores the potential health risks associated with the interaction between antioxidants and ambient pollutants.

Comprehensive phytochemical profiles and antioxidant activity of Korean local cultivars of red chili pepper (Capsicum annuum L.)

Red chili pepper (Capsicum annuum L.), which belongs to the Solanaceae family, contains a variety of phytochemicals with health-promoting properties including capsaicinoids, phenolics and fatty acids. Red chili pepper is one of the most consumed vegetables in Korea and occupies the largest cultivated area among spices. In this study, the ethanolic extracts from two Korean local cultivars, namely Subicho and Eumseong, were analyzed using a hybrid trapped ion mobility Q-TOF mass spectrometer equipped with a UPLC system, and their phytochemical profiles were then compared with those of a common phytophthora disease-resistant cultivar called Dokbulwang, which is extensively used for red chili pepper powder in public spaces across Korea. Utilizing high-resolution ion-mobility Q-TOF MS analysis, 458 and 192 compounds were identified from the three different red chili peppers in positive and negative ion modes, respectively, by matching with a reference spectral library. Principal component analysis revealed clear distinctions among the three cultivars, allowing us to identify key phytochemical components responsible for discriminating the local cultivars from the public cultivar. Furthermore, the assessment of total flavonoid, phenolic, and antioxidant activity in the red pepper extracts, highlighted their diverse molecular and chemical profiles. Despite the higher total flavonoid and phenolic content values observed in the public cultivar, the radical scavenging rate was higher in the local cultivars, particularly in Subicho. This suggest the presence of stronger antioxidant compounds in the local cultivar, indicating their potential health benefits due to their rich content of bioactive compounds. Notably, the local cultivars exhibited significantly higher proportions of organic compounds (more than four times) and terpenoids (more than two times) compared to the public cultivar. Specifically, higher levels of five major capsaicinoid compounds were found in the local cultivars when compared to the public cultivar. The observed disparities in phytochemical composition and antioxidant activities indicate the molecular diversity present among these cultivars. Further exploration of the bioactive compounds in these local cultivars could prove invaluable for the development of native crops, potentially leading to the discovery of novel sources of bioactive molecules for various applications in health and agriculture.

Decoding Cosmetic Complexities: A Comprehensive Guide to Matrix Composition and Pretreatment Technology

Despite advancements in analytical technologies, the complex nature of cosmetic matrices, coupled with the presence of diverse and trace unauthorized additives, hinders the application of these technologies in cosmetics analysis. This not only impedes effective regulation of cosmetics but also leads to the continual infiltration of illegal products into the market, posing serious health risks to consumers. The establishment of cosmetic regulations is often based on extensive scientific experiments, resulting in a certain degree of latency. Therefore, timely advancement in laboratory research is crucial to ensure the timely update and adaptability of regulations. A comprehensive understanding of the composition of cosmetic matrices and their pretreatment technologies is vital for enhancing the efficiency and accuracy of cosmetic detection. Drawing upon the China National Medical Products Administration's 2021 Cosmetic Classification Rules and Classification Catalogue, we streamline the wide array of cosmetics into four principal categories based on the following compositions: emulsified, liquid, powdered, and wax-based cosmetics. In this review, the characteristics, compositional elements, and physicochemical properties inherent to each category, as well as an extensive overview of the evolution of pretreatment methods for different categories, will be explored. Our objective is to provide a clear and comprehensive guide, equipping researchers with profound insights into the core compositions and pretreatment methods of cosmetics, which will in turn advance cosmetic analysis and improve detection and regulatory approaches in the industry.

Dermatological Management of Aged Skin

The subject of the work concerns the dermatological management of patients mainly with aged skin. The purpose of the work was to present the basic techniques and preparations which are performed by dermatologists in the treatment of aged skin. There are dermatological treatments related to the treatment of skin diseases and cosmetic treatments which are mainly related to skin care. In this work, the method of literature research was applied. On the basis of books and journal articles on dermatological and cosmetic procedures for aged skin, an analysis of treatment types was made. Then, the results of this analysis were presented in the paper under discussion. The paper presents information on the skin and its properties. The structure and functions of the skin, aging processes and characteristics of aged skin were discussed. Then, the possibilities of reducing the visible signs of skin aging through the use of invasive and non-invasive dermatological and cosmetological treatments were given, and the most important components of preparations used supportively in combating skin aging processes were discussed.

Understanding the rod-to-tube transformation of self-assembled ascorbyl dipalmitate lipid nanoparticles stabilized with PEGylated lipids

We previously established a nanoparticle-based drug delivery system (DDS) for high-dose ascorbic acid therapy by self-assembly of a lipid-modified ascorbic acid derivative, L-ascorbyl 2,6-dipalmitate (ASC-DP). The particles' morphology should be modified for effective DDSs. Here, we modulated the morphology of self-assembled ASC-DP nanoparticles using two different PEGylated lipids, distearoylphosphatidylethanolamine-polyethylene glycol (DSPE-PEG) and cholesterol-polyethylene glycol (Chol-PEG), with various PEG molecular weights. At the preparation molar ratio of 10 : 1 (ASC-DP/PEGylated lipid), rod-like nanoparticles emerged in the ASC-DP/DSPE-PEG system, whereas the ASC-DP/Chol-PEG system yielded tube-like nanoparticles. The internal structures of both rod-like ASC-DP/DSPE-PEG and tube-like ASC-DP/Chol-PEG nanoparticles were similar to that of repeated ASC-DP bilayers. The particles' surfaces featured PEGylated lipids, which stabilized the structure and dispersion of the nanoparticles. For both systems, the particle size increased slightly with increasing the PEGylated lipid's PEG molecular weight. Increasing the PEG molecular weight decreased the inner tunnel size of tube-like ASC-DP/Chol-PEG nanoparticles. A mechanism has been proposed for the rod-to-tube transformation. Surface-layer free-energy changes owing to the mixing of multiple lipids and PEG chain repulsion are thought to underlie the inner tunnels' formation. The rod-to-tube morphology of self-assembled ASC-DP nanoparticles can be modulated by controlling the PEGylated lipids' structure, including the lipid species and the PEG chain length.

Total Phenolic Content, Antioxidant Capacity and UV Radiation Protection Properties of Marigold (Calendula officinalis), Carrot (Daucus carota), Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) and Hop (Humulus lupulus) Extracts

Total phenolic content using Folin–Ciocalteu method, antioxidant capacity by CUPRAC method and sun protection properties were measured for four different extracts of selected plants: marigold petals, carrot roots, tomato fruits and hop cones. Three types of extracts: water, oil and water-glycolic (1:4) were studied. Assessment of sun protection properties for extracts obtained from selected plants was first done by mathematical indication method and subsequently done spectrophotometrically. In a method of mathematical indication of UV protection based on absorption spectra, four parameters were determined regarding sun protection properties at different concentrations of selected plant extracts. Absorbance generally increased with an increase of concentration of extracts, but an expected increase of particular parameters was not obtained in all samples. The water-glycolic extract from hop cones was characterized by the highest content of phenolic compounds (among all studied samples) and high antioxidant activity. It also showed high radiation protection. Data for four parameters like UVA/UVB parameter, UVA1/UV parameter, SUI parameter and critical wavelength was generated, and the three first parameters were the highest for water and water-glycolic extracts of marigold. Among all plants, hop cones were characterized by the highest SPF for all types of extracts. SPF values increased with the concentration of extracts, but an increase of the weight of dried plants used to prepared extracts did not influence sun protection factor.

A Review of Moisturizers; History, Preparation, Characterization and Applications

Moisturizers are one of the most widely used preparations in cosmetics and have been extensively used to soften the skin for consumers. Moisturizers work effectively in combating dry skin which may cause pain, tightness, itch, stinging, and/or tingling. The aim of this review is to evaluate published studies on the history, ingredients, preparation processes, characteristics, uses, and applications of moisturizers. Moisturizers bridge the gap between medicine and consumer goods by being used to make the skin more beautiful and healthy. In the future, in moisturizer therapy, the capacity to adapt specific agents to specific dermatological demands will be crucial. Cosmetically, moisturizers make the skin smooth by the mechanism of increasing the water content in the stratum corneum, hence exerting its most vital action, which is moisturizing action and maintaining a normal skin pH.

Natural Antioxidants from Plant Extracts in Skincare Cosmetics: Recent Applications, Challenges and Perspectives

In recent years, interest in the health effects of natural antioxidants has increased due to their safety and applicability in cosmetic formulation. Nevertheless, efficacy of natural antioxidants in vivo is less documented than their prooxidant properties in vivo. Plant extracts rich in vitamins, flavonoids, and phenolic compounds can induce oxidative damage by reacting with various biomolecules while also providing antioxidant properties. Because the biological activities of natural antioxidants differ, their effectiveness for slowing the aging process remains unclear. This review article focuses on the use of natural antioxidants in skincare and the possible mechanisms underlying their desired effect, along with recent applications in skincare formulation and their limitations.

Topical Artocarpus communis Nanoparticles Improved the Water Solubility and Skin Permeation of Raw A. communis Extract, Improving Its Photoprotective Effect

Antioxidants from plant extracts are often used as additives in skincare products to prevent skin problems induced by environmental pollutants. Artocarpus communis methanol extract (ACM) has many biological effects, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, and photoprotective effects; however, the poor water solubility of raw ACM has limited its applications in medicine and cosmetics. Topical antioxidant nanoparticles are one of the drug-delivery systems for overcoming the poor water solubility of antioxidants for increasing their skin penetration. The present study demonstrated that ACM-loaded hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin and polyvinylpyrrolidone K30 nanoparticles (AHP) were successfully prepared and could effectively increase the skin penetration of ACM through changing the physicochemical characteristics of raw ACM, including reducing the particle size, increasing the surface area, and inducing amorphous transformation. Our results also revealed that AHP had significantly better antioxidant activity than raw ACM for preventing photocytotoxicity because the AHP formulation increased the cellular uptake of the ACM in UVB-irradiated HaCaT keratinocytes. In conclusion, our results suggest that AHP may be used as a good topical antioxidant nanoparticle for delivering ACM into deep layers of the skin for preventing UVB-induced skin problems.

Quality Control of Vitamins A and E and Coenzyme Q10 in Commercial Anti-Ageing Cosmetic Products

Vitamins A and E and coenzyme Q10 are common ingredients in anti-ageing cosmetic products. Within this study, we evaluated the quality of commercial cosmetics with vitamin A (35 products), vitamin E (49 products), and coenzyme Q10 (27 products) by using validated HPLC–UV methods. Vitamin A was determined as retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, β carotene, and hydroxypinacolone retinoate in concentrations ranging from 950 ng/g to 19 mg/g. Total vitamin A contents, expressed with retinol equivalents, ranged from 160 ng/g to 19 mg/g, and were above the maximum concentration recommended by the SCCS in six of the 35 tested cosmetics. The content-related quality control of 10 cosmetics with specified vitamin A content revealed significant deviations (between 0% and 400%) of the label claim. Vitamin E was determined as both tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate in concentrations between 8.5 µg/g and 16 mg/g. Coenzyme Q10 was determined as ubiquinone in 24 tested cosmetics, which labelled it, in concentrations between 4.2 µg/g and 100 µg/g. Labelling irregularities were observed in all three active compound groups, resulting in a significant share (42%) of improperly labelled cosmetic products. The results of this study reveal the need for stricter cosmetics regulation and highlight the importance of their quality control, especially by evaluating the contents of the active compounds, in their efficacy and safety assurance.

Polysaccharide nanoparticles: from fabrication to applications

The present review highlights the developments in polysaccharide nanoparticles with a particular focus on applications in biomedicine, cosmetics and food.

Lycopene and Melatonin: Antioxidant Compounds in Cosmetic Formulations

BACKGROUND

The use of antioxidants has become a common practice in the development of antiaging cosmetics.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing lycopene and melatonin antioxidants.

METHOD

Thirty-six healthy women from 32 to 65 years were enrolled in this study. The study was carried out for 10 weeks, 2 preconditioning weeks with a control cream without antioxidants, and 8-week test with creams containing antioxidants in study. A multifunctional skin physiology monitor (Courage & Khazaka electronic GmbH®, Germany) was used to measure skin sebum content, hydration, elasticity, erythema index, and melanin index in 4 different regions of the face.

RESULTS

There were significant differences between them.

Bioactive (Co)oligoesters as Potential Delivery Systems of p-Anisic Acid for Cosmetic Purposes

This article reports the studies on bioactive (co)oligoesters towards their use as controlled delivery systems of p-anisic acid. The objects of the study were oligo[3-hydroxy-3-(4-methoxybenzoyloxymethyl)propionate], (p-AA-CH₂-HP)_n oligoester, and oligo[(3-hydroxy-3-(4-methoxybenzoyloxymethyl)propionate)-co-(3-hydroxybutyrate)] [(p-AA-CH₂-HP)_x-co-(HB)_y (co)oligoesters containing p-anisic acid moiety (p-AA, as the bioactive end and side groups) connected to the polymer backbone through the susceptible to hydrolysis ester bonds. A thorough insight into the hydrolysis process of the bioactive (co)oligoesters studied has allowed us to determine the release profile of p-AA as well as to identify polymer carrier degradation products. The p-AA release profiles determined on the basis of high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) measurements showed that the release of the bioactive compound from the developed (co)oligoester systems was regular and no burst effect occurred. Biological studies demonstrated that studied (homo)- and (co)oligoesters were well tolerated by HaCaT cells because none of them showed notable cytotoxicity. They promoted keratinocyte growth at moderate concentrations. Bioactive (co)oligoesters containing p-anisic acid moiety had somewhat decreased cell proliferation at the highest concentration (100 µg/mL). The important practical inference of the current study is that the (co)oligoesters developed have a relatively large load of the biologically active substance (p-AA) per polymer macromolecule, which unlocks their potential application in the cosmetic industry.

Nanostructured lipid carriers: A novel hair protective product preventing hair damage and discoloration from UV radiation and thermal treatment

The goal of this study was to investigate the protective effects of nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and vitamin E loaded NLCs (Vit E-NLCs) on preventing hair damages and discoloration against UV radiation and thermal treatment. The NLCs and Vit E-NLCs were prepared using a high-pressure homogenization technique. At optimal conditions, they showed spherical particles with a mean particle size of ~140 nm and a polydispersity index of < 0.3. Up to 90% (w/w) vitamin E acetate incorporation efficacy was achieved. The protective efficacy of the model cream containing blank-NLCs (NLCs cream) or Vit E-NLCs (Vit E-NLCs cream) was investigated. Upon exposure to UV-light and heat, the FE-SEM images revealed that the hair treated with both NLCs creams showed a smoothness of hair surface similar to the virgin hair. In accordance with protein loss, they exhibited the least protein loss as compared to the hair treated with Vit-E cream, cream base and commercial products. The same trend was observed for the discoloration test, the hair treated with both NLCs creams demonstrated the lowest total color loss, as compared to other products. Comparing between two NLCs formulations, antioxidant Vit E-NLCs showed to promote the photoprotective effect against hair damage and discoloration slightly greater than blank NLCs, but it has no extra benefit for heat protection. Considered overall, the developed NLCs and Vit E-NLCs is a novel alternative for preventing hair damage and discoloration from daily UV and heat exposure.

Rational design of novel coumarins: A potential trend for antioxidants in cosmetics

Coumarins are well-known for their antioxidant effect and aromatic property, thus, they are one of ingredients commonly added in cosmetics and personal care products. Quantitative structure-activity relationships (QSAR) modeling is an in silico method widely used to facilitate rational design and structural optimization of novel drugs. Herein, QSAR modeling was used to elucidate key properties governing antioxidant activity of a series of the reported coumarin-based antioxidant agents (1-28). Several types of descriptors (calculated from 4 softwares i.e., Gaussian 09, Dragon, PaDEL and Mold2 softwares) were used to generate three multiple linear regression (MLR) models with preferable predictive performance (Q 2 LOO-CV = 0.813-0.908; RMSE LOO-CV = 0.150-0.210; Q 2 Ext = 0.875-0.952; RMSE Ext = 0.104-0.166). QSAR analysis indicated that number of secondary amines (nArNHR), polarizability (G2p), electronegativity (D467, D580, SpMin2_Bhe, and MATS8e), van der Waals volume (D491 and D461), and H-bond potential (SHBint4) are important properties governing antioxidant activity. The constructed models were also applied to guide in silico rational design of an additional set of 69 structurally modified coumarins with improved antioxidant activity. Finally, a set of 9 promising newly design compounds were highlighted for further development. Structure-activity analysis also revealed key features required for potent activity which would be useful for guiding the future rational design. In overview, our findings demonstrated that QSAR modeling could possibly be a facilitating tool to enhance successful development of bioactive compounds for health and cosmetic applications.

Development of an Enriched Polyphenol (Natural Antioxidant) Extract from Orange Juice (Citrus sinensis) by Adsorption on Macroporous Resins

Orange (Citrus sinensis) juice contains a high amount of antioxidant compounds, such as polyphenols and vitamins. The aim of this work was to develop an adsorption procedure for the quantitative recovery of polyphenols from fresh orange juice. Different macroporous resins have been selected to evaluate their affinity for phenolic compound in order to purify the antioxidant compounds from the orange juice. The main compounds of orange juice were firstly characterized using an UPLC-UV-HRMS to define the metabolite profile, and subsequently three different types of adsorbent (XAD-2, XAD-4, and XAD-16N) were tested to concentrate these bioactive compounds. The time of contact was selected based on kinetic studies, and subsequently the adsorption and elution conditions were optimized in order to maximize the recovery of phenolic compounds to obtain an extract rich of bioactive compounds. Lastly, antioxidant capacity of the orange juice extract of selected macroporous resin, obtained under optimized conditions, was determined by in vitro antioxidant assays.

Microencapsulation of retinyl palmitate by melt dispersion for cosmetic application

Retinyl palmitate was encapsulated in wax matrix by melt dispersion for the purpose of economic and sustainable cosmeceutical formulation with minimum use of synthetic chemicals. We evaluated the effect of different process variables of microencapsulation by melt dispersion. In this study, a three level definitive screening design was applied, where the microcapsule properties were analysed through statistical analysis to understand the effect of four process variables: type of wax, theoretical loading capacity, surface concentration and stirring speed. Microparticles were characterised for size using image analysis; loading capacity and encapsulation efficiency using ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy; antioxidant activity through DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) assay. Melt dispersion method was effective to produce microcapsules with a spherical shape and mean size as small as 28 µm. The encapsulation efficiency ranged 60-80%. Theoretical loading capacity (p-value = 0.00232, significance level, α = 1%) and surfactant% (p = 0.0573, α = 10%) were found to be the most significant factors to control the actual loading capacity and size of microcapsules.

An Electrophilic Natural Product Provides a Safe and Robust Odor Neutralization Approach To Counteract Malodorous Organosulfur Metabolites Encountered in Skunk Spray

The anal secretions of skunks comprise several types of malodorous organosulfur compounds. The pungent metabolites are used defensively by skunks to repel threats posed by predators, and in many parts of the world, those perceived threats include humans and their pets. The extremely low thresholds for detection of the organosulfur metabolites make efforts to "de-skunk" people, animals, and clothing a process fraught with many challenges. The fungal-derived metabolite pericosine A (4) is a promiscuous yet stabile electrophilic compound that we propose is used by some fungi as a novel form of chemical defense. Our investigations have indicated that pericosine A readily reacts with skunk-spray secretions to transform them into odorless products. Mechanistic and computational studies suggested that pericosine A and its synthetic analogues react via S_N2'-type mechanisms with thiols and thioacetates under aqueous conditions to generate stable thioethers. Testing revealed that pericosine A did not cause skin or eye irritation and was highly effective at deodorizing skunk anal gland secretions when formulated to include adjunctive cosmetic ingredients.

Chemical Composition, Olfactory Evaluation and Antioxidant Effects of the Leaf Essential Oil of Corymbia citriodora (Hook) from China

The chemical composition of a sample of lemon eucalyptus essential oil ( Corymbia citriodora) from China was determined by GC/FID and GC/MS. Citronellal (76.3%), citronellol (5.7%) and neo-isopulegol (5.5%) were the major components. The odor of the sample was evaluated as fresh, citrus-like and mildly fruity, with a pleasant woody background note.

Lemon eucalyptus oil was found to exhibit antiradical activity with respect to DPPH and hydroxyl (OH•) radicals. The effect exercised on OH• radicals significantly exceeded that observed for the DPPH radical – the respective concentrations for 50% inhibition of the radicals were 0.38 μg/mL for OH• and 344.0 μg/mL for DPPH. Furthermore, the essential oil revealed antioxidant activities in a model system comprised of a linoleic acid emulsion. At a concentration of 0.1%, inhibition of conjugated dienes-formation by 59.8% was observed and the formation of secondary oxidized products of linoleic acid by 84.7%.

Inulin as an effectiveness and safe ingredient in cosmetics

Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus) and chicory (Cichorium intybus) are valuable pharmaceutical raw materials on account of their high content of inulin, a natural prebiotic. Inulin-rich plants are also increasingly employed in the formulation of cosmetic products. The paper presents the biological properties of aqueous and aqueous-ethanolic extracts of Jerusalem artichoke and chicory. The extracts have been found to have a high free radical scavenging ability, with the most beneficial antioxidant properties being observed for the aqueous-ethanolic extract of Jerusalem artichoke. Inulin isolated from both plant types is a safe and non-toxic raw material. Inulin added to model body wash gel formulations markedly reduces their potential to cause skin irritation and sensitization.

Natural Polyphenols Selectively Inhibit β-Carbonic Anhydrase from the Dandruff-Producing Fungus Malassezia globosa: Activity and Modeling Studies

Around 50 % of the worldwide population is affected by dandruff, which is triggered by a variety of factors. The yeast Malassezia globosa has been labeled as the most probable causative agent for the onset of dandruff. The β-carbonic anhydrase (CA) of MgCA was recently validated as an anti-dandruff target, with its inhibition being responsible for in vivo growth defects in the fungus. As classical CA inhibitors of the sulfonamide type give rise to permeability problems through biological membranes, finding non-sulfonamide alternatives for MgCA inhibition is of considerable interest in the cosmetic field. We recently screened a large library of human (h) CA inhibitors for MgCA inhibition, including different chemotypes, such as monothiocarbamates, dithiocarbamates, phenols, and benzoxaboroles. Herein, we expanded the research toward new MgCA inhibitors by considering a set of natural polyphenols (including flavones, flavonols, flavanones, flavanols, isoflavones, and depsides) that exhibited MgCA inhibitory activity in the micromolar range, as well as selectivity for the fungal isozyme over off-target human isoforms. The binding mode of representative derivatives within the MgCA catalytic cleft was investigated by docking studies using a homology-built model.

EFFECTS OF HIGH-DOSE VITAMIN C AND HYALURONIC ACID ON TENDON HEALING

OBJECTIVE

To assess the histopathologic and biomechanical effects of hyaluronic acid (HA) and high-dose vitamin C (VC) on rat Achilles tendon healing.

METHODS

Forty-eight Sprague-Dawley rats were randomized to HA and VC and control groups with equal numbers. Each group was further divided into two subgroups to be sacrificed on Day 15 (n=8) and Day 30 (n=8). The Achilles tendons were cut and repaired. While the control rats remained untreated, HA and VC were administered after repair. The repaired tendons were removed for biomechanical and histopathologic analyses. In the biomechanical tests, the tendons were stretched to failure and maximum forces were measured. For histopathologic examination, the specimens were interpreted semiquantitatively using Movin's grading scale and Bonar scores.

RESULTS

The highest mean forces were obtained in the HA group on Day 15 and in the VC group on Day 30, with a significant difference between HA and VC on Day 15 between control and VC on Day 30 (p<0.05). Histological examination showed both Movin and Bonar scores decreased in all groups on Day 30, with significant improvements in the HA and VC groups (p<0.05).

CONCLUSION

Our results demonstrated that both VC and HA had therapeutic effects on tendon healing, especially in the late phase. Level of Evidence I; High quality randomized trial with statistically significant difference.

Topical Application of Trisodium Ascorbyl 6-Palmitate 2-Phosphate Actively Supplies Ascorbate to Skin Cells in an Ascorbate Transporter-Independent Manner

Ascorbic acid (AA) possesses multiple beneficial functions, such as regulating collagen biosynthesis and redox balance in the skin. AA derivatives have been developed to overcome this compound’s high fragility and to assist with AA supplementation to the skin. However, how AA derivatives are transferred into cells and converted to AA in the skin remains unclear. In the present study, we showed that AA treatment failed to increase the cellular AA level in the presence of AA transporter inhibitors, indicating an AA transporter-dependent action. In contrast, torisodium ascorbyl 6-palmitate 2-phosphate (APPS) treatment significantly enhanced the cellular AA level in skin cells despite the presence of inhibitors. In ex vivo experiments, APPS treatment also increased the AA content in a human epidermis model. Interestingly, APPS was readily metabolized and converted to AA in keratinocyte lysates via an intrinsic mechanism. Furthermore, APPS markedly repressed the intracellular superoxide generation and promoted viability associated with an enhanced AA level in Sod1-deficient skin cells. These findings indicate that APPS effectively restores the AA level and normalizes the redox balance in skin cells in an AA transporter-independent manner. Topical treatment of APPS is a beneficial strategy for supplying AA and improving the physiology of damaged skin.

Interactions of retinoids with the ABC transporters P-glycoprotein and Breast Cancer Resistance Protein

Retinoids – derivatives of vitamin A – are important cell permeant signaling molecules that regulate gene expression through activation of nuclear receptors. P-glycoprotein (Pgp) and ABCG2 are plasma membrane efflux transporters affecting the tissue distribution of numerous structurally unrelated lipophilic compounds. In the present work we aimed to study the interaction of the above ABC transporters with retinoid derivatives. We have found that 13-cis-retinoic acid, retinol and retinyl-acetate inhibited the Pgp and ABCG2 mediated substrate transport as well as the substrate stimulated ATPase activity of these transporters. Interestingly, 9-cis-retinoic acid and ATRA (all-trans retinoic acid), both are stereoisomers of 13-cis-retinoic acid, did not have any effect on the transporters’ activity. Our fluorescence anisotropy measurements revealed that 13-cis-retinoic acid, retinol and retinyl-acetate selectively increase the viscosity and packing density of the membrane. Thus, the mixed-type inhibition of both transporters by retinol and ABCG2 by 13-cis-retinoic acid may be the collective result of direct interactions of these retinoids with the substrate binding site(s) and of indirect interactions mediated by their membrane rigidifying effects.

Utilization of the Fine Particles Obtained from Cold Pressed Vegetable Oils: A Case Study in Organic Rice Bran, Sunflower and Sesame Oils

Fine particles obtained from the physical refining of organic cold pressed vegetable oils which are normally discarded as a process waste can be utilized as cosmetic and food ingredients. This paper demonstrated the use of the fine particles from rice bran (Thai Jasmine and Riceberry varieties), sunflower and sesame oils as the ingredient in body mask and as dietary fiber. It was found that the fine particles from rice brans exhibited better antioxidant properties than those of sunflower and sesame. The mixed fine particles were added to body mask formula. The addition of the fine particles affected the physical properties and stability of the body mask especially viscosity and pH. Total dietary fiber recovered from the fine particles ranged from 17.91-23.83 g/100g dry sample. Dietary fiber from Riceberry exhibited the best antioxidant properties as evidenced by DPPH radical scavenging activity and reducing power.

Proretinal nanoparticles: stability, release, efficacy, and irritation

Despite many potent biological activities, retinoids such as retinoic acid (RA) and retinal possess dose-related broad side effects. In this study, we show that this problem, which has been unsolvable for a long time, can be tackled through a controlled release strategy in which retinal is continuously delivered to the skin via sustained release from proretinal nanoparticles. The water dispersible proretinal nanoparticles are stable when kept in water at neutral pH and at room temperature for 8 months under light-proof conditions, and show sustained release of retinal into human synthetic sebum at a pH of 5. In the daily topical application tests performed for 4 weeks on rats' skin, the nanoparticles showed superior ability to increase epidermal thickness compared to RA and retinal, with no skin irritation observed for the proretinal particles, but severe skin irritation observed for RA and free retinal. When tested under occlusion conditions in human volunteers, insignificant skin irritation was observed for the proretinal nanoparticles. The 12-week, double-blind, split-face study on human volunteers indicates better antiaging efficacy of the particles as compared to the free RA.

Free-Radical-Scavenging, Antityrosinase, and Cellular Melanogenesis Inhibitory Activities of Synthetic Isoflavones

In this study, we examined the potential of synthetic isoflavones for application in cosmeceuticals. Twenty-five isoflavones were synthesized and their capacities of free-radical-scavenging and mushroom tyrosinase inhibition, as well as their impact on cell viability of B16F10 murine melanoma cells and HaCaT human keratinocytes were evaluated. Isoflavones that showed significant mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activities were further studied on reduction of cellular melanin formation and antityrosinase activities in B16F10 melanocytes in vitro. Among the isoflavones tested, 6-hydroxydaidzein (2) was the strongest scavenger of both ABTS(.+) and DPPH(.) radicals with SC50 values of 11.3 ± 0.3 and 9.4 ± 0.1 μM, respectively. Texasin (20) exhibited the most potent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase (IC50 14.9 ± 4.5 μM), whereas retusin (17) showed the most efficient inhibition both of cellular melanin formation and antityrosinase activity in B16F10 melanocytes, respectively. In summary, both retusin (17) and texasin (20) exhibited potent free-radical-scavenging capacities as well as efficient inhibition of cellular melanogenesis, suggesting that they are valuable hit compounds with potential for advanced cosmeceutical development.

Immune-Relevant and Antioxidant Activities of Vitellogenin and Yolk Proteins in Fish

Vitellogenin (Vtg), the major egg yolk precursor protein, is traditionally thought to provide protein- and lipid-rich nutrients for developing embryos and larvae. However, the roles of Vtg as well as its derived yolk proteins lipovitellin (Lv) and phosvitin (Pv) extend beyond nutritional functions. Accumulating data have demonstrated that Vtg, Lv and Pv participate in host innate immune defense with multifaceted functions. They can all act as multivalent pattern recognition receptors capable of identifying invading microbes. Vtg and Pv can also act as immune effectors capable of killing bacteria and virus. Moreover, Vtg and Lv are shown to possess phagocytosis-promoting activity as opsonins. In addition to these immune-relevant functions, Vtg and Pv are found to have antioxidant activity, which is able to protect the host from oxidant stress. These non-nutritional functions clearly deepen our understanding of the physiological roles of the molecules, and at the same time, provide a sound basis for potential application of the molecules in human health.

Immune-Relevant and Antioxidant Activities of Vitellogenin and Yolk Proteins in Fish

Vitellogenin (Vtg), the major egg yolk precursor protein, is traditionally thought to provide protein- and lipid-rich nutrients for developing embryos and larvae. However, the roles of Vtg as well as its derived yolk proteins lipovitellin (Lv) and phosvitin (Pv) extend beyond nutritional functions. Accumulating data have demonstrated that Vtg, Lv and Pv participate in host innate immune defense with multifaceted functions. They can all act as multivalent pattern recognition receptors capable of identifying invading microbes. Vtg and Pv can also act as immune effectors capable of killing bacteria and virus. Moreover, Vtg and Lv are shown to possess phagocytosis-promoting activity as opsonins. In addition to these immune-relevant functions, Vtg and Pv are found to have antioxidant activity, which is able to protect the host from oxidant stress. These non-nutritional functions clearly deepen our understanding of the physiological roles of the molecules, and at the same time, provide a sound basis for potential application of the molecules in human health.

Classification by causes of dark circles and appropriate evaluation method of dark circles

BACKGROUND

Dark circles refer to a symptom that present darkness under the eyes. Because of improvement in the quality of life, the dark circles have been recognized as one of major cosmetic concerns. However, it is not easy to classify the dark circles because they have various causes.

METHODS

To select suitable instruments and detailed evaluation items, the dark circles were classified according to the causes through visual assessment, Wood's lamp test, and medical history survey for 100 subjects with dark circles. After the classification, were newly recruited for instrument conformity assessment. Through this, suitable instruments for dark circle evaluation were selected. We performed a randomized clinical trial for dark circles, a placebo-controlled double-blind study, using effective parameters of the instruments selected from the preliminary test.

RESULTS

Dark circles of vascular type (35%) and mixed type (54%), a combination of pigmented and vascular types, were the most common. Twenty four subjects with the mixed type dark circles applied the test product (Vitamin C 3%, Vitamin A 0.1%, Vitamin E 0.5%) and placebo on randomized split-face for 8 weeks. The effective parameters (L*, a, M.I., E.I., quasi L*, quasi a* and dermal thickness) were measured during the study period. Result showed that the L* value of Chromameter(®) , Melanin index (M.I.) of Mexameter(®) and quasi L* value obtained by image analysis improved with statistical significance after applying the test product compared with the placebo product.

CONCLUSION

We classified the dark circles according to the causes of the dark circles and verified the reliability of the parameter obtained by the instrument conformity assessment used in this study through the efficacy evaluation. Also based on this study, we were to suggest newly established methods which can be applied to the evaluation of efficacy of functional cosmetics for dark circles.

Tretinoin-based formulations - influence of concentration and vehicles on skin penetration

Tretinoin is used in the management of acne and it is part of a gold standard treatment for photoaging. It has also been reported as an agent for superficial chemical peeling in highly concentrated formulations with few considerations about skin penetration. The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of drug concentration and vehicles currently used on skin penetration of tretinoin. In vitro permeation tests were carried out using Franz diffusion cells fitted with porcine ear skin and 10% aqueous methanol in the receptor compartment. Formulations studied, cream or hydroalcoholic dispersion, containing 0.25%, 1% and 5% of tretinoin were placed in the donor compartment for six hours. Tretinoin concentration in skin layers was measured by high performance liquid chromatography. The largest amount of tretinoin from both vehicles was detected in stratum corneum with significant differences among the three concentrations. The hydroalcoholic dispersion was the best vehicle. Significant amounts of tretinoin were found even in deep layers of epidermis. The formulation with 0.25% tretinoin showed better results when considered the amount of tretinoin on skin in terms of percentage. Finally, skin penetration of tretinoin was influenced by vehicle and concentration of this drug used in formulation.

Enhancement of human skin facial revitalization by moringa leaf extract cream

Introduction

Solar ultraviolet exposure is the main cause of skin damage by initiation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) leading to skin collagen imperfection and eventually skin roughness. This can be reduced by proper revitalization of skin enhancing younger and healthier appearance.

Aim

To evaluate the skin facial revitalization effect of a cream formulation containing the Moringa oleifera leaf extract on humans.

Material and methods

Active cream containing 3% of the concentrated extract of moringa leaves was developed by entrapping in the inner aqueous phase of cream. Base contained no extract. Skin revitalizing parameters, i.e. surface, volume, texture parameters and surface evaluation of the living skin (SELS) were assessed comparatively after application of the base and active cream on human face using Visioscan^® VC 98 for a period of 3 months.

Results

Surface values were increased by the base and decreased by the active cream. Effects produced for the base and active cream were significant and insignificant, respectively, as observed in the case of surface. Unlike the base, the active cream showed significant effects on skin volume, texture parameters (energy, variance and contrast) and SELS, SEr (skin roughness), SEsc (skin scaliness), SEsm (skin smoothness), and SEw (skin wrinkles) parameters.

Conclusions

The results suggested that moringa cream enhances skin revitalization effect and supports anti-aging skin effects.

Topical application of retinyl palmitate-loaded nanotechnology-based drug delivery systems for the treatment of skin aging

The objective of this study was to perform a structural characterization and evaluate the in vitro safety profile and in vitro antioxidant activity of liquid crystalline systems (LCS) with and without retinyl palmitate (RP). LCS containing polyether functional siloxane (PFS) as a surfactant, silicon glycol copolymer (SGC) as oil phase, and water in the ratios 30 : 25 : 45 and 40 : 50 : 10 with (OLS_v = RP-loaded opaque liquid system and TLS_v = RP-loaded transparent liquid system, respectively) and without (OLS and TLS, respectively) RP were studied. Samples were characterized using polarized light microscopy (PLM) and rheology analysis. In vitro safety profile was evaluated using red cell hemolysis and in vitro cytotoxicity assays. In vitro antioxidant activity was performed by the DPPH method. PLM analysis showed the presence of lamellar LCS just to TLS. Regardless of the presence of RP, the rheological studies showed the pseudoplastic behavior of the formulations. The results showed that the incorporation of RP in LCS improved the safety profile of the drug. In vitro antioxidant activity suggests that LCS presented a higher capacity to maintain the antioxidant activity of RP. PFS-based systems may be a promising platform for RP topical application for the treatment of skin aging.

Hepatic Fibrosis Inhibitory Effect of Peptides Isolated from Navicula incerta on TGF-β1 Induced Activation of LX-2 Human Hepatic Stellate Cells

In this study, novel peptides (NIPP-1, NIPP-2) derived from Navicula incerta (microalgae) protein hydrolysate were explored for their inhibitory effects on collagen release in hepatic fibrosis with the investigation of its underlying mechanism of action. TGF-β1 activated fibrosis in LX-2 cells was examined in the presence or absence of purified peptides NIPP-1 and NIPP-2. Besides the mechanisms of liver cell injury, protective effects of NIPP-1 and NIPP-2 were studied to show the protective mechanism against TGF-β1 stimulated fibrogenesis. Our results showed that the core protein of NIPP-1 peptide prevented fibril formation of type I collagen, elevated the MMP level and inhibited TIMP production in a dose-dependent manner. The treatment of NIPP-1 and NIPP-2 on TGF-β1 induced LX-2 cells alleviated hepatic fibrosis. Moreover, α-SMA, TIMPs, collagen and PDGF in the NIPP-1 treated groups were significantly decreased. Therefore, it could be suggested that NIPP-1 has potential to be used in anti-fibrosis treatment.

Density functional theory study of the structure-antioxidant activity of polyphenolic deoxybenzoins

Quantum chemical calculations based on the density functional theory (DFT) have been employed to study the relationship between the structure and the antioxidant activity of four polyphenolic deoxybenzoins (DOBs) in solvents and the gas phase. The three main working mechanisms, H-atom transfer (HAT), single electron transfer-proton transfer (SET-PT) and sequential proton loss electron transfer (SPLET) have been investigated. The calculated results closely matched experimental values. The results obtained prove that for the HAT mechanism, the most efficient system possessed ortho-dihydroxy functionality. The results suggested that HAT would be the most favourable mechanism for explaining the radical-scavenging activity of polyphenolic DOBs in the gas phase, whereas the SPLET mechanism is the thermodynamically favourable pathway in polar solvents.

Comparison of cryopreservation methods for the long term storage of the marine diatom Haslea ostrearia (simonsen)

Long term maintenance of microalgal strains by serial subculturing is often expensive and time-consuming. Alternative methods, such as cryopreservation, present several benefits and thus seem more relevant. Our study aimed at comparing two cryopreservation procedures applied to the marine diatom Haslea ostrearia (Simonsen): (1) a two-step freezing method in liquid media using 5%, 10% and 20% MeOH, Me₂SO or Glycerol, and (2) an immobilization-dehydration method consisting in an algal cell entrapped in 0.7 M sucrose dehydrated and air-flow desiccated calcium alginate beads before "direct" or "two-step" freezing. Our results showed that the cryopreservation of H. ostrearia was feasible. With the two-step freezing protocol only Me₂SO maintained cell viability without contamination but the low percentage of viability (<10%) prevents its use. Conversely, the immobilization-dehydration methods tested in this study were effective. Average viability of 57% and 77% were obtained with the "direct" and the "two step" cooling assays respectively, ensuring preservation of the genetic traits of H. ostrearia.

Antioxidant peptides from protein hydrolysate of microalgae Navicula incerta and their protective effects in HepG2/CYP2E1 cells induced by ethanol

Marine microalgae have been reported as valuable new sources of pharmacologically active compounds and there are now numerous commercial applications of microalgae. Hence, in this study we evaluated the protective effects of peptides purified from marine microalgae, Navicula incerta, against alcohol-induced damage in HepG2/CYP2E1 cells. To obtain bioactive peptides from microalgae, N. incerta was hydrolysed using various enzymes (alcalase, α-chymotrypsin, neutrase, papain, pepsin, pronase-E and trypsin), and the hydrolysates were evaluated for cytoprotective activity. Among them, papain-derived hydrolysate exhibited higher antioxidant activities than those of other enzymes. Therefore, papain hydrolysate was purified in order to obtain potent antihepatotoxic and antioxidative peptides. The amino acid sequences of the purified peptides were analysed as; NIPP-1 (Pro-Gly-Trp-Asn-Gln-Trp-Phe-Leu) with molecular mass 1 171 Da, and NIPP-2 (Val-Glu-Val-Leu-Pro-Pro-Ala-Glu-Leu) with molecular mass 1108 Da. Furthermore, this study demonstrated that NIPP-1 and NIPP-2 peptides inhibited ethanol-induced cytotoxicity in HepG2/CYP2E1 cells.