Peptides: Emerging Candidates for the Prevention and Treatment of Skin Senescence: A Review

One class of cosmetic compounds that have raised interest of many experts is peptides. The search for ingredients with good biocompatibility and bioactivity has led to the use of peptides in cosmetic products. Peptides are novel active ingredients that improve collagen synthesis, enhance skin cell proliferation, or decrease inflammation. Based on their mechanism of action, they can be classified into signal peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides, and enzyme inhibitor peptides. This review focuses on the main types of peptides and their application in the cosmetic field, underlining their main limitations. One of the most significant drawbacks of cosmetic peptides is their poor permeability through membranes, which limits their delivery and effectiveness. As a result, this review follows the methods used for improving permeability through the stratum corneum. Increasing peptide bioavailability and stability for enhanced delivery to the desired site of action and visible effects have become central points for the latest research due to their promising features. For this purpose, several methods have been identified and described. Physical techniques include thermal ablation (radiofrequency and laser), electrical methods (electroporation, iontophoresis), mechanical approach (microneedles), and ultrasounds. As an alternative, innovative formulations have been developed in nano-systems such as liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, nanoemulsions, and other nanomaterials to reduce skin irritation and improve product effectiveness. The purpose of this review is to provide the latest information regarding these noteworthy molecules and the reasoning behind their use in cosmetic formulations.

Cosmeceuticals in photoaging: A review

BACKGROUND

Photoaging is a process of the architecture of normal skin damaged by ultraviolet radiation. Topical cosmeceuticals have been used to treat this condition. The authors aimed to understand the mechanism and level of evidence of different commonly used cosmeceuticals used to treat photodamaged skin.

OBJECTIVE

A range of commonly used topical cosmeceuticals (botanicals, peptides, and hydroquinone) has been used in cosmetic medicine for many years to treat photodamaged skin. This review article compares their efficacy and level of evidence.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

This study was a systematic review to evaluate the efficacy of different topical cosmeceuticals. Keywords including "Photoaging," "Azelaic acid," "Soy," "Green Tea," "Chamomile," "Ginkgo," "Tea Tree Oil," "Resveratrol," "Cucumber," "Ginseng," "Centella asiatica," "Licorice Root," "Aloe Vera," "Peptides," "Argireline," "Hydroquinone," were typed on OVID, PUBMED, MEDLINE for relevant studies published on photoaging treatment.

RESULTS

Most of the evidence behind cosmeceuticals is of high-quality ranging from Level I to Level II. In particular, the evidence base behind peptides is the strongest with most studies achieving Level Ib status in the evidence hierarchy.

CONCLUSION

Topical cosmeceuticals like botanicals, peptides and hydroquinone can effectively treat photodamaged skin.

Wrinkle-Improving Effect of Novel Peptide That Binds to Nicotinic Acetylcholine Receptor

Wrinkles, one of the most common signs of aging, are primarily caused by the continuous contraction of muscles. Muscle contraction is induced by the binding of acetylcholine (ACh), released at the neuromuscular junction, to nicotinic acetylcholine receptor (nAChR) present on the muscle cell surface. In this study, we aimed to develop a wrinkle-improving peptide that inhibits the binding of ACh to nAChR using peptide phage display technology. Our peptide showed a remarkably high binding affinity to nAChR subunit α1, with a value below 1 µM, and was found to inhibit the action of ACh through its interaction with these receptors. Furthermore, it increased collagen synthesis in skin cells and upregulated the expression of the aquaporin-3 (AQP3) and hyaluronan synthase-2 (HAS2) genes. These results confirm that the peptide effectively inhibits muscle contraction and enhances skin elasticity and hydration, contributing to its wrinkle-reducing effects. Clinical studies on humans observed significant improvement in wrinkles after three weeks of use, with substantial reduction observed after six weeks. In conclusion, these findings demonstrate the efficacy of the peptide (named Medipep) in reducing wrinkles.

Preparation and efficacy verification of three-dimensional printed partitioned multi-effect precision-care gel facial mask

OBJECTIVE

A partition multi-effect precision-care gel facial mask conforming to facial skin characteristics was prepared using three-dimensional (3D) printing technology.

METHODS

First, the hydrogel matrix and humectant of a 3D-printed gel for facial masks were screened, and three 3D-printed gels of arbutin, hexapeptide, and salicylic acid were prepared with whitening, wrinkle removal, and oil control functions, respectively. Skin irritation tests were performed on the gels. Physicochemical properties such as pH, heat and cold tolerance were evaluated. The efficacy of three 3D-printed gels was assessed by measuring melanin value, wrinkle depression score, and oil secretion. Finally, the facial mask model design and printing parameters were studied, and a partition multi-effect precision-care gel facial mask was printed in line with facial skin characteristics.

RESULTS

For the 3D-printed facial mask, the gel prescription with 2% hydroxyethyl cellulose gel as matrix and 7% glycerol as humectant was the best. The prepared 3D-printed gel did not irritate the human skin, and its physicochemical properties met the Chinese facial mask industry standard (QB/T2872-2017). We showed that three types of 3D-printed gels containing arbutin, hexapeptide, and salicylic acid could be applied to the corresponding parts of the face to solve different problems, such as facial skin dullness, wrinkles, and oil secretion. Therefore, according to facial physiological characteristics, the facial mask model was designed for the forehead and nasolabial fold, which needs to be anti-wrinkled; the cheek, which needs to be whitened; and the nose and chin, which need oil control. The optimal printing parameters were 0.26 mm nozzle diameter, 90 mm/s printing speed, 30% filling density, 140% wire extrusion ratio, and 0.25 mm layer height. Different skin care effects can be achieved using a three-nozzle printer to print arbutin, hexapeptide, or salicylic acid gel on the mask's forehead and nasolabial fold, cheek, and nose and chin, respectively.

CONCLUSION

The 3D-printed partition multi-effect care gel facial mask prepared according to the skin features of different parts of the face can overcome the problem of the single skincare effect of the mass-produced facial masks.

Public Interest in Acetyl Hexapeptide-8: Longitudinal Analysis

BACKGROUND

Acetyl hexapeptide-8, also known as Argireline, is a topical, short-acting, synthetic peptide that has recently gained popularity for its antiwrinkle effects. This agent has emerged as a more accessible alternative to botulinum neurotoxin.

OBJECTIVE

This study evaluates the public interest in acetyl hexapeptide-8 in the United States from 2013 to 2023, as described by search volume on Google, the most-used search engine.

METHODS

We analyzed the longitudinal relative monthly search volume from January 1, 2013, to January 1, 2023, for acetyl hexapeptide-related terms. We compared the internet search trends for "Botox" during this period to "Argireline."

RESULTS

The terms "Argireline" and "Botox in a Bottle" both had substantial increases in search volume in 2022. Although its search volume is drastically increasing, "Argireline" was less searched than "Botox," which had a stable, up-trending search volume over the past decade.

CONCLUSIONS

The increasing interest in acetyl hexapeptide-8 may be due to its cost-effectiveness and use as a botulinum neurotoxin alternative. Affordability, over-the-counter availability, and ease of self-application of the agent suggest its potential to enhance accessibility to cosmetic dermatologic care.

Clinical evidence of the efficacy and safety of a new multi-peptide anti-aging topical eye serum

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is a complex multifactorial progressive process. With age, intrinsic and extrinsic factors cause the loss of skin elasticity, with the formation of wrinkles, resulting in skin sagging through various pathways. A combination of multiple bioactive peptides could be used as a treatment for skin wrinkles and sagging.

OBJECTIVES

This study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic efficacy of a multi-peptide eye serum as a daily skin-care product for improving the periocular skin of women within the ages of 20-45 years.

METHODS

The stratum corneum skin hydration and skin elasticity were assessed using a Corneometer CM825 and Skin Elastometer MPA580, respectively. The PRIMOS CR technique based on digital strip projection technology was used for skin image and wrinkle analysis around the "crow's feet" area. Self-assessment questionnaires were filled on Day 14 and 28 of product use.

RESULTS

This study included 32 subjects with an average age of 28.5 years. On Day 28, there was a significant decrease in the number, depth, and volume of wrinkles. Skin hydration, elasticity, and firmness increased continuously during the study period, consistent with typical anti-aging claims. A majority of the participants (75.00%) expressed overall satisfaction with their skin appearance after using the product. Most participants noted a visible skin improvement, with an increase in skin elasticity and smoothness, and confirmed the extensibility, applicability, and temperance of the product. No adverse reactions related to product use were observed.

CONCLUSIONS

The multi-peptide eye serum uses a multi-targeted mechanism against skin aging to improve the skin appearance, making it an ideal choice for daily skincare.

Investigating the effects of Argireline in a skin serum containing hyaluronic acids on skin surface wrinkles using the Visia® Complexion Analysis camera system for objective skin analysis

Objective

To analyze the effects of Argireline on skin surface wrinkles using the Visia® camera system developed by Canfield Scientific Inc., U.S.A., for facial image capture.

Method

Nineteen female participants were recruited from a plastic surgery clinic. Initial facial images captured the left, front, and right sides of the participants' faces, which were documented as timepoint one. Following this, the participants immediately began to apply a facial skin serum containing triple hyaluronic acids produced by CNC cosmetic GmbH, Philippsburg, Germany. The serum was applied once in the morning and once in the evening. Participants received two identical containers labeled L for left and R for right, with each container to be used on the corresponding facial side, particularly around the eye area. One container contained Argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, which previously was deemed to be a biosafe alternative to botulinum neurotoxin. The study was conducted as double-blind; neither the participants nor researchers knew which of the two containers contained Argireline. Participants were allowed to use their own cosmetic products throughout the study. After four weeks, the participants returned to have their faces recaptured using the Visia® camera, which was documented as timepoint two. The absolute scores of the wrinkles were noted, and results on both sides of the face were calculated and compared. The "TruSkinAge®" measurement provided by the Visia® camera was reviewed for each face side. Results between both time points and both sides of the face were compared. After the data analysis was complete, the company was contacted to determine which container contained Argireline.

Results

Nineteen participants returned for facial image capture. There were no significant adverse events, allergic reactions, or skin irritations. The investigation revealed that the wrinkle score slightly decreased for the right and left side of the face following four weeks of serum application. However, this decrease was not significant (p>0.05) based on the Wilcoxon matched pairs tests for the wrinkle scores (right side p=0.060 and left side p=0.176) and Truskin Ages® results (right side p=0.096 and left side p=0.489).Comparing the data from the right side with that from the left side of the face revealed that neither demonstrated a significant reduction in wrinkle score (p=0.829) or Truskin Ages® results (p=0.804). Argireline was included in the serum applied to the right side of the face. However, no statistical significance was seen in the results on this side of the face indicating any possible effects.

Conclusion

Wrinkle scores and Truskin Ages® results were observed to decrease non-significantly following the application of a skin serum involving hyaluronic acid. The Visia® imaging method was used to analyze the data objectively. Differences between both sides of the face that were treated with and without Argireline were not statistically significant. Therefore, the effect of Argireline was not proven. While Argireline presented with low toxicity, its efficacy was found not to be significant. Therefore, it is not deemed to be an alternative treatment to botulinum toxin.

Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.

Polydioxanone Bioactive Sutures-Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline): An Intelligent System for Controlled Release in Facial Harmonization

Introduction

We propose a new facial lifting protocol using polydioxanone (PDO) threads embedded in acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline [Arg]). We assume that Arg reinforces the effects of PDO threads, as it is a mimetic of botulinum toxin. Because the PDO suture is hydrolyzable, this assumption is analyzed by instrumental analysis.

Objective

To demonstrate the capacity of the PDO suture as a system for the controlled release of acetyl hexapeptide-8 to apply in deep wrinkles of the upper third.

Materials and Methods

Three segments of 1-cm long 21G PDO threads immersed in 1 mL of Arg. PDO threads were observed under an optical, electron microscope at 24, 48, and 72 h later. They were also weighed before and after being soaked in Arg, and employing ultraviolet (UV)-visible spectroscopy, the release rate of Arg from the PDO suture was measured. Finally, was insert the thread PDO-Arg following a protocol designed especially for deep static wrinkles in the upper third.

Results

The electronic weighing revealed that the PDO thread enjoys capillarity by the peptide, doubling its weight every 24 h. UV spectra revealed that PDO thread is a well-controlled release system for Arg, allowing its sustained release for 1 h. Optical and electronic photomicrographs confirm the swelling of the PDO thread by absorbing Arg by its capillarity, but this hydrophilicity does not lead to its premature physical degradation.

Conclusions

The PDO thread system with Arg is an intelligent bioactive system useful in facial harmonization. It recommend conduct clinical trial to verify his superior lifting effect.

Peptide-pro complex serum: Investigating effects on aged skin

BACKGROUND

Effective anti-aging treatments are an unmet consumer need.

AIM

Ex vivoand clinical tests have evaluated the efficacy of a topical facial serum containing a proprietary blend of neuropeptides, proteins, amino acids, and marine extracts on aged skin.

METHODS

In the ex vivo study the facial serum was compared to a commercially marketed face serum and to an untreated control on skin explants using microrelief, smoothness, and epidermal thickness endpoints. The 12 weeks monadic clinical study was designed for the test product to be used on the whole face. Subjects functioned as their own control; evaluating change from baseline. Skin was evaluated clinically by a Dermatologist for tolerability and for efficacy. Also part of the product assessment was skin hydration measurements, imaging, and a subject questionnaire.

RESULTS

The facial serum improved skin condition by significant reductions in skin surface area occupied by microfolds and in skin roughness. Additionally, it increased epidermal thickness as compared to the untreated control as well as the commercially marketed face serum. The facial serum provided a statistically increased skin moisturization compared to pretreatment values. Dermatological evaluation of the skin concluded that there were statistically and clinically significant improvements in skin smoothness, wrinkles severity, fine lines visibility and lifting, and tightening effects at crow's feet area, forehead, and upper lip.

CONCLUSION

A facial serum, containing a proprietary blend of neuropeptides, proteins, amino acids, and marine extracts, has been shown to improve the overall quality of aged skin in a series of ex vivo and clinical tests.

The Clinical Evidence-Based Paradigm of Topical Anti-Aging Skincare Formulations Enriched with Bio-Active Peptide SA1-III (KP1) as Collagen Modulator: From Bench to Bedside

A substantial reduction in the amount and quality of collagen leads to age-related deterioration of the elasticity and firmness of the skin. In recent years, multiple compounds have been developed aimed at reversing the molecular features of dermal aging. One such target for aging reversal is collagen degradation or turnover. SA1-III is a decapeptide (Ac-Met-Gly-Lys-Val-Val-Asn-Pro-Thr-Gln-Lys-NH₂), also known as KP1, formally derived from the C-terminal portion of serpin A1, an agent known as a physiological inhibitor of neutrophil elastase, and has been the subject of laboratory and clinical studies determining its effects on modulation of collagen turnover as well as the treatment of age-associated changes of the face. This review aims to provide a bio-inspired approach focusing on the latest scientific studies that describe the compound, as well as a comprehensive appraisal of laboratory and clinical tests on skincare formulations enriched with sA1-III.

SNARE Modulators and SNARE Mimetic Peptides

The soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor (NSF) attachment protein (SNAP) receptor (SNARE) proteins play a central role in most forms of intracellular membrane trafficking, a key process that allows for membrane and biocargo shuffling between multiple compartments within the cell and extracellular environment. The structural organization of SNARE proteins is relatively simple, with several intrinsically disordered and folded elements (e.g., SNARE motif, N-terminal domain, transmembrane region) that interact with other SNAREs, SNARE-regulating proteins and biological membranes. In this review, we discuss recent advances in the development of functional peptides that can modify SNARE-binding interfaces and modulate SNARE function. The ability of the relatively short SNARE motif to assemble spontaneously into stable coiled coil tetrahelical bundles has inspired the development of reduced SNARE-mimetic systems that use peptides for biological membrane fusion and for making large supramolecular protein complexes. We evaluate two such systems, based on peptide-nucleic acids (PNAs) and coiled coil peptides. We also review how the self-assembly of SNARE motifs can be exploited to drive on-demand assembly of complex re-engineered polypeptides.

The Effect of Synthetic Acetylhexapeptide-8 (AH8) on Sebaceous Function

OBJECTIVE

This study aims to evaluate the in vitro and clinical effects of topical acetylhexapeptide-8 (AH8) on the appearance of oily skin.

METHODS

In vitro SEB-1 human sebocyte cell lines were exposed to different concentrations of AH8 , then the lipid content of the sebocytes was measured. For the randomized, controlled, split-face clinical study, participants received AH8 10% lotion formulated in Cetaphil Moisturizing Facial Lotion on one side of their face and the control vehicle lotion on the other side of their face. Facial oiliness was assessed by a trained physician using a 3-point grading system, high-resolution digital photographs, and a sebumeter (SM815). Participants also filled out self-assessments of their skin oiliness.

RESULTS

The in vitro experiments showed that sebocyte lipid content significantly decreased after AH8 treatment (p < 0.05 at 0.00005% AH8 , p=0.09 at 0.0005% AH8 , p < 0.05 at 0.005% AH8,and p < 0.001 at 0.025% AH8). In the clinical study, participants trended towards a 10% reduction (p=0.16) in sebum production after AH8 treatment in comparison to the vehicle treatment.

CONCLUSION

AH8 inhibits the accumulation of lipids in sebocytes in vitro without altering cell proliferation or SREBP-1 expression. Topical AH8 trended toward decreased sebum production in human participants. The use of AH8 may serve as a promising agent to reduce sebocyte lipid production and the appearance of oily skin.

Matrikines as mediators of tissue remodelling

Extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins confer biomechanical properties, maintain cell phenotype and mediate tissue repair (via release of sequestered cytokines and proteases). In contrast to intracellular proteomes, where proteins are monitored and replaced over short time periods, many ECM proteins function for years (decades in humans) without replacement. The longevity of abundant ECM proteins, such as collagen I and elastin, leaves them vulnerable to damage accumulation and their host organs prone to chronic, age-related diseases. However, ECM protein fragmentation can potentially produce peptide cytokines (matrikines) which may exacerbate and/or ameliorate age- and disease-related ECM remodelling. In this review, we discuss ECM composition, function and degradation and highlight examples of endogenous matrikines. We then critically and comprehensively analyse published studies of matrix-derived peptides used as topical skin treatments, before considering the potential for improvements in the discovery and delivery of novel matrix-derived peptides to skin and internal organs. From this, we conclude that while the translational impact of matrix-derived peptide therapeutics is evident, the mechanisms of action of these peptides are poorly defined. Further, well-designed, multimodal studies are required.

Anti-ageing peptides and proteins for topical applications: a review

Skin ageing is a cumulative result of oxidative stress, predominantly caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS). Respiration, pollutants, toxins, or ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation produce ROS with 80% of skin damage attributed to UVA irradiation. Anti-ageing peptides and proteins are considered valuable compounds for removing ROS to prevent skin ageing and maintenance of skin health. In this review, skin ageing theory has been illustrated with a focus on the mechanism and relationship with anti-ageing peptides and proteins. The effects, classification, and transport pathways of anti-ageing peptides and proteins across skin are summarized and discussed. Over the last decade, several novel formulations and advanced strategies have been developed to overcome the challenges in the dermal delivery of proteins and peptides for skin ageing. This article also provides an in-depth review of the latest advancements in the dermal delivery of anti-ageing proteins and peptides. Based on these studies, this review prospected several semi-solid dosage forms to achieve topical applicability for anti-ageing peptides and proteins.

Quantitation of Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 in Cosmetics by Hydrophilic Interaction Liquid Chromatography Coupled to Photo Diode Array Detection

Bioactive peptides are gaining more and more popularity in the research and development of cosmetic products with anti-aging effect. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is a hydrophilic peptide incorporated in cosmetics to reduce the under-eye wrinkles and the forehead furrows. Hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography (HILIC) is the separation technique of choice for analyzing peptides. In this work, a rapid HILIC method coupled to photodiode array detection operated at 214 nm was developed, validated and used to determine acetyl-hexapeptide-8 in cosmetics. Chromatography was performed on a Xbridge® HILIC BEH analytical column using as mobile phase a 40 mM ammonium formate water solution (pH 6.5)-acetonitrile mixture 30:70, v/v at flow rate 0.25 mL min−1. The assay was linear over the concentration range 20 to 30 μg mL−1 for the cosmetic formulations and 0.004 to 0.007% (w/w) for the cosmetic cream. The limits of quantitation for acetyl hexapeptide-8 were 1.5 μg mL−1 and 0.002% (w/w) for the assay of cosmetic formulations and cosmetic creams, respectively. The method was applied to the analysis of cosmetic formulations and anti-wrinkle cosmetic creams.

3D-bioengineered model of human skeletal muscle tissue with phenotypic features of aging for drug testing purposes

Three-dimensional engineering of skeletal muscle is becoming increasingly relevant for tissue engineering, disease modeling and bio-hybrid robotics, where flexible, versatile and multidisciplinary approaches for the evaluation of tissue differentiation, functionality and force measurement are required. This works presents a 3D-printed platform of bioengineered human skeletal muscle which can efficiently model the three-dimensional structure of native tissue, while providing information about force generation and contraction profiles. Proper differentiation and maturation of myocytes is demonstrated by the expression of key myo-proteins using immunocytochemistry and analyzed by confocal microscopy, and the functionality assessed via electrical stimulation and analysis of contraction kinetics. To validate the flexibility of this platform for complex tissue modeling, the bioengineered muscle is treated with tumor necrosis factorαto mimic the conditions of aging, which is supported by morphological and functional changes. Moreover, as a proof of concept, the effects of Argireline® Amplified peptide, a cosmetic ingredient that causes muscle relaxation, are evaluated in both healthy and aged tissue models. Therefore, the results demonstrate that this 3D-bioengineered human muscle platform could be used to assess morphological and functional changes in the aging process of muscular tissue with potential applications in biomedicine, cosmetics and bio-hybrid robotics.

DD04107-Derived neuronal exocytosis inhibitor peptides: Evidences for synaptotagmin-1 as a putative target

The analgesic peptide DD04107 (Pal-EEMQRR-NH₂) and its acetylated analogue inhibit α-calcitonin gene-related peptide (α-CGRP) exocytotic release from primary sensory neurons. Examining the crystal structure of the SNARE-Synaptotagmin-1(Syt1) complex, we hypothesized that these peptides could inhibit neuronal exocytosis by binding to Syt1, hampering at least partially its interaction with the SNARE complex. To address this hypothesis, we first interrogate the role of individual side-chains on the inhibition of α-CGRP release, finding that E1, M3, Q4 and R6 residues were crucial for activity. CD and NMR conformational analysis showed that linear peptides have tendency to adopt α-helical conformations, but the results with cyclic analogues indicated that this secondary structure is not needed for activity. Isothermal titration calorimetry (ITC) measurements demonstrate a direct interaction of some of these peptides with Syt1-C2B domain, but not with Syt7-C2B region, indicating selectivity. As expected for a compound able to inhibit α-CGRP release, cyclic peptide derivative Pal-E-cyclo[EMQK]R-NH₂ showed potent in vivo analgesic activity, in a model of inflammatory pain. Molecular dynamics simulations provided a model consistent with K_D values for the interaction of peptides with Syt1-C2B domain, and with their biological activity. Altogether, these results identify Syt1 as a potential new analgesic target.

Complications and Adverse Effects of Periocular Aesthetic Treatments

The popularity and variety of temporary and permanent periocular aesthetic treatments has increased over the past decade. Patients frequently present to eye clinics with ocular complications and side effects following these treatments, their severity ranging from ocular irritation from dry eyes to visual loss from vascular occlusion. A careful, thorough history is essential, as many patients may not associate aesthetic procedures with ocular complications, and some may be embarrassed to disclose this information. All ophthalmologists should understand the potential ocular sequelae of these treatments and be able to initiate treatment in sight-threatening cases. Wesummarises the current literature on ophthalmic complications of the most common periocular aesthetic treatments.

Trends in peptide drug discovery

Since the introduction of insulin almost a century ago, more than 80 peptide drugs have reached the market for a wide range of diseases, including diabetes, cancer, osteoporosis, multiple sclerosis, HIV infection and chronic pain. In this Perspective, we summarize key trends in peptide drug discovery and development, covering the early efforts focused on human hormones, elegant medicinal chemistry and rational design strategies, peptide drugs derived from nature, and major breakthroughs in molecular biology and peptide chemistry that continue to advance the field. We emphasize lessons from earlier approaches that are still relevant today as well as emerging strategies such as integrated venomics and peptide-display libraries that create new avenues for peptide drug discovery. We also discuss the pharmaceutical landscape in which peptide drugs could be particularly valuable and analyse the challenges that need to be addressed for them to reach their full potential.

Redirecting drug repositioning to discover innovative cosmeceuticals

Skin appearance is essential for self-esteem and quality of life; consequently, skin care products represent a huge market. In particular, cosmeceuticals constitute a hybrid category of skin care formulations, at the interphase of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, rationally designed to target (patho) physiological mechanisms aiming to enhance skin health and appearance. Cosmeceuticals are marketed as anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, hair regrowth, skin whitening and wound healing agents with special emphasis on scar-free healing. An overview on recent cutting-edge advances concerning the discovery and development of enhanced performance cosmeceuticals by drug repositioning approaches is presented here. In this context, we propose "target repositioning," a new term, to highlight that druggable protein targets implicated in multiple diseases (hubs in the diseasome) can be exploited to accelerate the discovery of molecularly targeted cosmeceuticals that can promote skin health as an added benefit, which is a novel concept not described before. In this direction, emphasis is placed on the role of mouse models, for often untreatable skin diseases, as well as recent breakthroughs on monogenic rare skin syndromes, in promoting compound repositioning to innovative cosmeceuticals.

Argireline: Needle-Free Botox as Analytical Challenge

Argireline-containing cosmetics attract public interest due to their confirmed reduction of facial wrinkles. Argireline is a peptide that works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters in the neuromuscular junction, producing a botox-like effect. Therefore, it is used as a safe needle-free alternative to botox treatment. In this work we investigated the presence of Argireline in cosmetic creams and sera by application of reversed phase liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry (RP-HPLC/MS and MS/MS). The analysis revealed the presence of argireline and its oxidized form in several different cosmetics. The methionine residue in Argireline sequence was indicated as oxidation point according to neutral loss MS studies. The developed sample preparation strategy minimizes and monitors methionine oxidation, bringing to our attention the question of impact of ingredients on the stability of cosmetic product.

Topical application of Zanthoxylum piperitum extract improves lateral canthal rhytides by inhibiting muscle contractions

Facial wrinkles are the predominant phenotypes of skin aging. To date, one of the most effective ways to improve wrinkles is botulinum toxin type A (BoNT/A) injection, which inhibits muscle contractions by reducing acetylcholine release from neurons. However, since BoNT/A is a hazardous neurotoxin, the injection can only be performed by medical doctors and the procedure is only possible through invasive injection, causing inconveniences such as pain. To overcome these inconveniences, we tried to find a way to reduce wrinkles non-invasively via mechanisms similar to BoNT/A. We first designed in vitro assays to test BoNT/A-like muscle contraction inhibition in two different model systems. By using the assays, we identified Zanthoxylum piperitum (Z. piperitum) fruit extract as a BoNT-like reagent (27.7% decrease of muscle contraction rates by 1000 ppm of Z. piperitum extract treatment). Next, we determined mechanisms of how Z. piperitum extract decreases muscle contraction rates and found that the extract treatment inhibits electrical signal transduction in neurons. We also showed that among known components of Z. piperitum extract, quercitrin is responsible for muscle contraction inhibition. We further identified that Z. piperitum extract has synergistic effects with acetyl hexapeptide-8 and BoNT/A light chain, which are well-known BoNT-like peptides. Finally, we showed that topical treatment of the Z. piperitum extract indeed decreases facial wrinkles and treatment of Z. piperitum extract with acetyl hexapeptide-8 has a tendency to improve wrinkles synergistically (14.5% improvement on average). The synergistic effect of the combination is expected to improve wrinkles effectively by implementing the BoNT/A mechanisms in a non-invasive way.

Facial Expression Wrinkles and Their Relaxation by a Synthetic Peptide

Expression wrinkles form over time due to repeated facial movements such as smiling and frowning. They have an imprint on facial skin in areas such as the corner of the eyes, where they take the form of crow’s feet, the forehead and the glabella, where they appear as frown lines, and around the mouth, as marionette lines. In the study presented here, we recruited two sets of volunteers. An older group of 57 volunteers aged 50 to 65 years, and a group of eight younger volunteers aged 21–35 who were the biological daughters of eight of the older volunteers. Using VISIA CR, we took images of the volunteers in relaxed, angry and smiling mode to assess similarities in expression wrinkle patterns. In addition, the older volunteers were split into a placebo group and an active group who applied a formulation of 4% of a cosmetic product containing the peptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate (DABBA) for four weeks. Wrinkles were assessed by image analysis, expert grading and Primoslite measurements. Our study found striking similarities in the facial wrinkle patterns of mothers with relaxed faces and daughters with angry or smiling faces. We found a decrease in visible wrinkles in the group of older volunteers applying DABBA. We created a facial map for graded wrinkles showing these changes. Volunteers using the active formulation showed significantly less wrinkle area and length on the forehead when frowning compared to the placebo group (p < 0.05).

Cosmeceutical Peptides in the Framework of Sustainable Wellness Economy

Among the many aspects that contribute to the wellness of each individual, healthy and younger-looking skin play a relevant role, as clearly shown by the important growth of the skin-care products market observed in recent years. In this scenario, the field of cosmeceuticals appears particularly promising, being based on cosmetic products containing active ingredients. Among these, several peptides were proposed for cosmeceutical applications, thanks to their specific interaction with biological targets. In this mini-review, we report some of the most investigated and used peptides for cosmetic formulations, taking into account that cosmeceutical peptides are basically divided into three main categories (i.e., neurotransmitter inhibitors, carriers, and signal peptides). Special attention was payed to the scientific studies supporting the claimed biological activity of these peptides, as a fundamental aspect that should underpin the growth of this field in the framework of a sustainable wellness economy.

Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review

Over-the-counter antiaging formulations aim to prevent or minimize the signs of aging skin, and to maintain the benefits obtained from different cosmetic procedures. Even though a huge selection of such products is available on the market, evidence and good clinical practice of the data supporting their use are oftentimes lacking. In this systematic review, the authors reviewed scientific data available in the published literature on the most common ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics, with a particular focus on in vivo studies.

Method development for acetyl octapeptide-3 analysis by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry

Background

Acetyl octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8) is an antiaging peptide that is more effective than acetyl hexapeptide-3, which is more stable than botulinum toxin and effectively relieves facial wrinkles. Products containing SNAP-8 such as patch are producing, but analytical method has not been reported to determination of SNAP-8.

Method

Mobile phase, collision energy, and desolvation line temperature were optimized, and mass spectral data set for SNAP-8 was newly constructed by liquid chromatography-triple quadrupole mass spectrometer in multiple reaction monitoring mode.

Results

The developed method showed good linearity (r ≥ 0.9971) with limit of quantification of 0.0125 ng/mL, repeatability (% relative standard deviation = 0.02 to 0.12) and accuracy (% relative error = − 1.68 to 1.44) under optimal conditions. This method was successfully applied to a biodegradable microneedle patch loaded with SNAP-8.

Conclusion

The present method for the quantification of SNAP-8 may be useful for quality control in the cosmetic fields.

Geometrical optimisation of a personalised microneedle eye patch for transdermal delivery of anti-wrinkle small peptide

Acetyl-hexapeptide-3 (AHP-3) is a small peptide with good anti-wrinkle efficacy and safety profile. However, due to its hydrophilicity and high molecular weight, its skin permeation is generally poor. An innovative microneedle (MN) patch such as the curved, flexible or personalised MN patch is a viable avenue to deliver AHP-3. However, the well-researched geometrical relationship of MN on a flat MN patch cannot be assumed for these novel MN patches due to a complex mix of axial and shear forces. In this study, 3D printing was used for the fabrication of various MN patches with different MN geometries and curvatures. Both mechanical strength and skin penetration efficiency were used to determine the optimal MN geometry. The optimal MN geometry was then applied to the fabrication of a personalized MN patch (PMNP) for anti-wrinkle therapy, via 3D printing. In all, the general principles of MN geometrical effects on mechanical strength and skin penetration efficiency for a curved and a flat MN patch were similar. A MN height of 800 μm, tip diameter of 100 μm, interspacing of 800 μm and base diameter of 400 μm was observed to be the optimal MN geometry across all curvatures. In vitro skin permeation study demonstrated enhanced transdermal delivery of AHP-3 using the fabricated PMNP. Therefore, PMNP with optimized MN geometry can potentially be a novel approach to augment transdermal delivery of AHP-3 for effective wrinkle management.

Anti-aging and Sunscreens: Paradigm Shift in Cosmetics

Skin, being one of the vital organs and a protective barrier needs to be pampered and taken care of from early childhood. It is the most visible and the widest exposed organ and by far reflects the general health condition and the aging process in humans. Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors contribute to this complex biological process of skin aging. In recent times, skin health and its beauty is perceived as an indicator of one’s health which has resulted in an increasing demand for anti-aging products. Exposure to UV radiation is considered to be one of the factors responsible for aging termed as photoaging. In this review, we have discussed the various factors which may accelerate the process of skin aging. Various approaches and strategies to delay the process of skin aging have been emphasized upon. The patents filed in the area of anti-aging and sunscreen products have also been reviewed to gain an insight into the new formulations which have been developed as an anti-aging product. There has been a tremendous rise in the cosmetic and cosmeceuticals market with products having a dual activity of anti-aging and sun protection. Research is constantly on the rise to ensure the safety of these products. Alternatives to the current topical application of sunscreen are being considered to overcome the drawback of reapplication of the sunscreen often which can be a boon to the cosmeceutical market.

Buforin-1 blocks neuronal SNARE-mediated membrane fusion by inhibiting SNARE complex assembly

Assembly of neuronal SNARE protein complexes is essential for fusion of synaptic vesicles with the presynaptic plasma membrane, which releases neurotransmitters into the synaptic cleft and mediates neurotransmission. However, despite the potential of pharmacological regulation of this process for the treatment of various neurological disorders, only a few reagents, including botulinum neurotoxins, are currently available. Here, we report that buforin-1, an antimicrobial peptide from the Asian toad Bufo gargarizans, inhibits neuronal SNARE complex assembly, resulting in neuronal SNARE-mediated membrane fusion in vitro via its direct association with neuronal t-SNAREs syntaxin-1 and SNAP-25. Consistently, buforin-1 significantly inhibited neuronal-SNARE-mediated exocytosis in PC-12 cells. Thus, buforin-1 has potential for the treatment of neurological disorders caused by dysregulated neurotransmission.

Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy of Cross-Linked Hyaluronic Acid-Based Microneedle Patch with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Epidermal Growth Factor on Korean Skin

Background

Hyaluronic acid (HA)-based microneedle patch has recently been studied for wrinkle improvement. Cross-linked HA (CLHA) is widely used in dermal fillers. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 (AHP-8) and epidermal growth factor (EGF) are used for cosmetic ingredients.

Objective

This study aimed to verify the efficacy of the CLHA/HA-based patch with microstructure (microneedle patch) containing AHP-8 or EGF.

Methods

A total of 52 Korean females were enrolled in a double-blind, randomized, controlled, split-face trial. The subjects were divided into 3 groups: (1) microneedle patch alone, (2) microneedle patch/AHP-8, and (3) microneedle patch/EGF. The treatment was applied on the periorbital and nasolabial fold area for 4 hours to completely dissolve the microstructures once per week for 29 days. Evaluations, including photodamage scoring, image analysis with Antera 3D® (Miravex, Ireland), skin hydration measurement, and adverse effect assessments, were performed at each visit.

Results

Fifty subjects (96.2%) completed this clinical study. On day 29 after application, statistically significant improvements in wrinkle and skin hydration were observed in all groups (p<0.01). Treatment with microneedle patch/AHP-8 and microneedle patch/EGF showed statistically significant improvements in wrinkle compared with microneedle patch alone (p<0.05). No serious adverse effects were noted.

Conclusion

Combination of CLHA-based microneedle patch and functional cosmetic ingredients can improve wrinkle with minimal discomfort.

Identification of small peptides and glycinamide that inhibit melanin synthesis using a positional scanning synthetic peptide combinatorial library

BACKGROUND

Antimelanogenic peptides are potentially useful to treat hyperpigmentation, but many peptides have limited application because of high cost and/or low activity.

OBJECTIVES

To identify small and potent peptide inhibitors of cellular melanin synthesis that are useful for cosmetic and medical applications.

METHODS

A positional scanning synthetic tetrapeptide combinatorial library was used for screening of potentially active peptides. Antimelanogenic activities of the peptide pools and individual peptides were evaluated in B16-F10 melanoma cells and human epidermal melanocytes treated with alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH).

RESULTS

Predicted active tetrapeptide sequences were R-(F/L)-(C/W)-(G/R)-NH₂ . Of the individual tetrapeptides tested, D3 (RFWG-NH₂ ) and D5 (RLWG-NH₂ ) exhibited high antimelanogenic activities. Tetrapeptide D9 (FRWG-NH₂ ) with a sequence identical to that of a portion of α-MSH also showed antimelanogenic activity. Of the tripeptides tested, E5 (FWG-NH₂ ), E6 (LWG-NH₂ ) and E7 (RWG-NH₂ ) were relatively more active. Dipeptide F1 (WG-NH₂ ) and monopeptide G1 (G-NH₂ , glycinamide) retained activity, but G2 (Ac-G-NH₂ ) and G3 (glycine) did not. The antimelanogenic activities of peptides D3, E5, F1 and G1 were verified in α-MSH-stimulated human epidermal melanocytes. Commercially available G-NH₂ ·HCl suppressed the phosphorylation levels of cAMP-responsive element binding protein, protein levels of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor and tyrosinase, l-tyrosine hydroxylase activity of tyrosinase, and the melanin levels in stimulated cells.

CONCLUSIONS

Small peptides, including glycinamide and tryptophanyl glycinamide, are potent antimelanogenic agents with potential value for the treatment of skin hyperpigmentation.

Plant and Microalgae Derived Peptides Are Advantageously Employed as Bioactive Compounds in Cosmetics

Bioactive peptides (BP) are specific protein fragments that are physiologically important for most living organisms. It is proven that in humans they are involved in a wide range of therapeutic activities as antihypertensive, antioxidant, anti-tumoral, anti-proliferative, hypocholesterolemic, and anti-inflammatory. In plants, BP are involved in the defense response, as well as in the cellular signaling and the development regulation. Most of the peptides used as ingredients in health-promoting foods, dietary supplements, pharmaceutical, and cosmeceutical preparations are obtained by chemical synthesis or by partial digestion of animal proteins. This makes them not fully accepted by the consumers because of the risks associated with solvent contamination or the use of animal derived substances. On the other hand, plant and microalgae derived peptides are known to be selective, effective, safe, and well tolerated once consumed, thus they have got a great potential for use in functional foods, drugs, and cosmetic products. In fact, the interest in the plant and microalgae derived BP is rapidly increasing and in this review, we highlight and discuss the current knowledge about their studies and applications in the cosmetic field.

Cosmeceuticals: What's Real, What's Not

Cosmeceuticals are cosmetics that promise to deliver physiologically relevant benefits without the incorporation of prescription drugs. To entice consumers to purchase these premium priced products, a story must be told of how the cosmeceutical delivers on these appearance improvement promises. The backbone of any cosmeceutical skin care regimen is facial cleansing and moisturizing. This article reviews the novel ingredients and technologies used to achieve these benefits examining what is real and what is not.

Soluble N-Ethylmaleimide-Sensitive Factor Attachment Protein Receptor-Derived Peptides for Regulation of Mast Cell Degranulation

Vesicle-associated V-soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor (SNARE) proteins and target membrane-associated T-SNAREs (syntaxin 4 and SNAP-23) assemble into a core trans-SNARE complex that mediates membrane fusion during mast cell degranulation. This complex plays pivotal roles at various stages of exocytosis from the initial priming step to fusion pore opening and expansion, finally resulting in the release of the vesicle contents. In this study, peptides with the sequences of various SNARE motifs were investigated for their potential inhibitory effects against SNARE complex formation and mast cell degranulation. The peptides with the sequences of the N-terminal regions of vesicle-associated membrane protein 2 (VAMP2) and VAMP8 were found to reduce mast cell degranulation by inhibiting SNARE complex formation. The fusion of protein transduction domains to the N-terminal of each peptide enabled the internalization of the fusion peptides into the cells equally as efficiently as cell permeabilization by streptolysin-O without any loss of their inhibitory activities. Distinct subsets of mast cell granules could be selectively regulated by the N-terminal-mimicking peptides derived from VAMP2 and VAMP8, and they effectively decreased the symptoms of atopic dermatitis in mouse models. These results suggest that the cell membrane fusion machinery may represent a therapeutic target for atopic dermatitis.

Bioactive Peptides: Applications and Relevance for Cosmeceuticals

Peptides found in skin can act by different mechanisms of action, being able to function as epidermal or nervous growth factors or even as neurotransmitters. Due to the vast functionality of these compounds, there is growing research on bioactive peptides aimed at investigating their uses in products developed for stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis and improving skin healing. Thus, a literature search on applications of the most common bioactive peptides used in cosmeceuticals was carried out. There is a lack of proper reviews concerning this topic in scientific literature. Nine peptides with specific actions on body and facial dysfunctions were described. It could be noted while searching scientific literature that studies aimed at investigating peptides which prevent aging of the skin are overrepresented. This makes searching for peptides designed for treating other skin dysfunctions more difficult. The use of biomimetic peptides in cosmetic formulations aimed at attenuating or preventing different types of skin dysfunctions is a topic where information is still lackluster. Even though research on these compounds is relatively common, there is still a need for more studies concerning their practical uses so their mechanisms of action can be fully elucidated, as they tend to be quite complex.

Enhanced Skin Permeation of Anti-wrinkle Peptides via Molecular Modification

Wrinkles can have a negative effect on quality of life and Botox is one of the most effective and common treatments. Argireline (Arg0), a mimetic of Botox, has been found to be safer than Botox and effective in reducing wrinkles, with efficacies up to 48% upon 4 weeks of twice daily treatment. However, the skin permeation of Arg0 is poor, due to its large molecular weight and hydrophilicity. Arg0 exists in zwitterionic form and this charged state hindered its skin permeation. Chemical modification of the peptide structure to reduce the formation of zwitterions may result in increased skin permeability. We investigated a total of 4 peptide analogues (Arg0, Arg1, Arg2, Arg3), in terms of skin permeation and wrinkle reduction. The 4 peptides were dissolved in various propylene glycol and water co-solvents. Enhanced human skin permeation was demonstrated by both Arg2 and Arg3 in vitro. On the other hand, the abilities of the 4 analogues to reduce wrinkle formation were also compared using primary human dental pulp stem cells derived neurons. By measuring the inhibition of glutamate release from the neurons in vitro, it was shown that Arg3 was the most effective, followed by Arg1, Arg0 and Arg2.

Extremophilic proteases as novel and efficient tools in short peptide synthesis

The objective of this review is to outline the crucial role that peptides play in various sectors, including medicine. Different ways of producing these compounds are discussed with an emphasis on the benefits offered by industrial enzyme biotechnology. This paper describes mechanisms of peptide bond formation using a range of proteases with different active site structures. Importantly, these enzymes may be further improved chemically and/or genetically to make them better suited for their various applications and process conditions. The focus is on extremophilic proteases, whose potential does not seem to have been fully appreciated to date. The structure of these proteins is somewhat different from that of the common commercially available enzymes, making them effective at high salinity and high or low temperatures, which are often favorable to peptide synthesis. Examples of such enzymes include halophilic, thermophilic, and psychrophilic proteases; this paper also mentions some promising catalytic proteins which require further study in this respect.

The efficacy study of the combination of tripeptide-10-citrulline and acetyl hexapeptide-3. A prospective, randomized controlled study

BACKGROUND

Bioactive peptides have beneficial effects on the skin.

OBJECTIVE

We investigated to evaluate the effect of acetyl hexapeptide-3 and tripeptide-10 citrulline and the possible synergism between these two peptides.

METHODS

Twenty-four healthy volunteers were randomized to receive combination of acetyl hexapeptide-3 with tripeptide-10 citrulline (Group G1), tripeptide-10 citrulline (Group, G2), acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Group G3), or neither peptide (Group G4) for 60 days. Skin properties evaluated included skin microtopography, parameters cR2 and cR3, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) using a skin visioscan and a tewameter, respectively.

RESULTS

After 20 days, the measurements between G1 and G2 groups (cR2 P=.045, cR3 P=.044), G2 and G3 groups (cR2 P=.017, cR3 P=.017), G3 and G4 groups (CR2 P=.022), and G2 and G4 groups (cR3 P=.028) from baseline were significant. After 60 days, measurements between groups G1 and G3 (cR2 P=.016, cR3 P=.025), groups G2 and G3 (cR2 P=.044, cR3= P=.044), and groups G1 and G4 (cR2 P=.025) were significant. After 20 days, changes in TEWL between groups G1 and G3 (P=.03), groups G2 and G3 (P=.045), and groups G3 and G4 (P=.025) were significant. After 40 days, changes between groups G2 and G3 (P=.028) and groups G3 and G4 (P=.01) from baseline were significant.

CONCLUSION

Our results confirm the antiwrinkle activity of acetyl hexapeptide-3. A significant decrease in TEWL with acetyl hexapeptide-3 treatment is observed. We provided clinical evidence for the antiwrinkle efficacy of tripeptide-10 citrulline and possibly TEWL. The underlying mechanism by which these two peptides can act synergistically was not clear in this study.

Biopolymeric agents for skin wrinkle treatment

Skin aging is caused by several factors capable of deteriorating dermal matrix and is visibly noticed in skin color and skin contour deformities. In addition to the prevention of skin aging by application of antioxidants and sunscreens, treatment of skin wrinkles with those of dermal fillers is also recommended. Dermal filler products with enhanced injectability and longer duration are being developed continuously. Biodegradable polymers such as skin elastic fibers and dermal matrix mimetic used for treatment of skin wrinkle are summarized in this article. Additionally, the importance of amino acids, enzymes, and proteins in aesthetic of skin is addressed. Thus, elective agents are proposed for the dermatologists, cosmetic formulators, and the individuals facing skin aging problems. The candidate natural peptides from marine sources are additionally presented for widening the choice of actives application for treating aging.