In vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy of the skin: noninvasive determination of molecular concentration profiles

A Review of Atomic-Force Microscopy in Skin Barrier Function Assessment

Skin barrier function (SBF) disorders are a class of pathologies that affect a significant portion of the world population. These disorders cause skin lesions with intense itch, impacting patients' physical and psychological well-being as well as their social functioning. It is in the interest of patients that their disorder be monitored closely while under treatment to evaluate the effectiveness of the ongoing therapy and any potential adverse reactions. Symptom-based assessment techniques are widely used by clinicians; however, they carry some limitations. Techniques to assess skin barrier impairment are critical for understanding the nature of the disease and for helping personalize treatment. This review recalls the anatomy of the skin barrier and describes an atomic-force microscopy approach to quantitatively monitor its disorders and their response to treatment. We review a panel of studies that show that this technique is highly relevant for SBF disorder research, and we aim to motivate its adoption into clinical settings.

Dissolvable microneedles in the skin: Determination the impact of barrier disruption and dry skin on dissolution

Dissolvable microneedles (DMNs), fabricated from biocompatible materials that dissolve in both water and skin have gained popularity in dermatology. However, limited research exists on their application in compromised skin conditions. This study compares the hyaluronic acid-based DMNs penetration, formation of microchannels, dissolution, and diffusion kinetics in intact, barrier-disrupted (tape stripped), and dry (acetone-treated) porcine ear skin ex vivo. After DMNs application, comprehensive investigations including dermoscopy, stereomicroscope, skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), optical coherence tomography (OCT), reflectance confocal laser scanning microscopy (RCLSM), confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy (CRM), two-photon tomography combined with fluorescence lifetime imaging (TPT-FLIM), histology, and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) were conducted. The 400 µm long DMNs successfully penetrated the skin to depths of ≈200 µm for dry skin and ≈200-290 µm for barrier-disrupted skin. Although DMNs fully inserted into all skin conditions, their dissolution rates were high in barrier-disrupted and low in dry skin, as observed through stereomicroscopy and TPT-FLIM. The dissolved polymer exhibited a more significant expansion in barrier-disrupted skin compared to intact skin, with the smallest increase observed in dry skin. Elevated TEWL and reduced skin hydration levels were evident in barrier-disrupted and dry skins compared to intact skin. OCT and RCLSM revealed noticeable skin indentation and pronounced microchannel areas, particularly in barrier-disrupted and dry skin. Additional confirmation of DMN effects on the skin and substance dissolution was obtained through histology, SEM, and CRM techniques. This study highlights the impact of skin condition on DMN effectiveness, emphasizing the importance of considering dissolvability and dissolution rates of needle materials, primarily composed of hyaluronic acid, for optimizing DMN-based drug delivery.

Comparison of the clinical efficacy of topical tretinoin 0.05% cream and tacrolimus 0.1% ointment plus iontophoresis in the management of palmoplantar psoriasis

BACKGROUND

Palmoplantar psoriasis (PPP) is a localized variant of psoriasis that may be resistant to topical therapy, owing to the poor penetrability of topical agents at this anatomical site. Modalities that enhance localized cutaneous delivery of drugs could help to solve this problem. Iontophoresis is one such procedure that augments transdermal drug delivery, thus enabling better and expeditious therapeutic outcomes.

OBJECTIVE

To compare the therapeutic efficacy and safety of iontophoresis with tretinoin 0.05% cream and tacrolimus 0.1% ointment in treating patients with PPP.

METHODS

Sixty patients with PPP (28 males and 32 females, age range 8-76 years) were enrolled and randomly assigned to one of two groups comprising 30 patients each. One group (12 males and 18 females) received iontophoresis with tretinoin 0.05% cream; the other (16 males and 14 females) received iontophoresis treatment with tacrolimus 0.1% ointment. Both groups received treatment weekly from baseline until 4 weeks and then fortnightly at weeks 6 and 8. Clinical images were taken at each visit and improvement of psoriasis was evaluated using the erythema, scaling, induration and fissuring (ESIF) score. The percentage reduction in ESIF score was also assessed on completion of treatment and the grade of improvement noted for each patient.

RESULTS

Twenty-seven patients in the iontophoresis with tretinoin 0.05% cream group and 29 in the iontophoresis treatment with tacrolimus 0.1% ointment group completed the study. The mean (SD) ESIF score in the former decreased significantly from 8.7 (2) at baseline to 3.2 (1.7) at the study endpoint (P < 0.001). Similarly, in the latter group, there was a substantial reduction in mean (SD) ESIF score from 8.2 (1.9) at baseline to 3.3 (1.1) at the study end (P < 0.001). No significant adverse effects were encountered in either treatment arm.

CONCLUSIONS

Iontophoresis using tretinoin and tacrolimus was found to be effective and safe for the treatment of PPP. Although iontophoresis with tretinoin showed slightly better results than with tacrolimus, these were not statistically significant.

Optics miniaturization strategy for demanding Raman spectroscopy applications

Raman spectroscopy provides non-destructive, label-free quantitative studies of chemical compositions at the microscale as used on NASA's Perseverance rover on Mars. Such capabilities come at the cost of high requirements for instrumentation. Here we present a centimeter-scale miniaturization of a Raman spectrometer using cheap non-stabilized laser diodes, densely packed optics, and non-cooled small sensors. The performance is comparable with expensive bulky research-grade Raman systems. It has excellent sensitivity, low power consumption, perfect wavenumber, intensity calibration, and 7 cm-1 resolution within the 400-4000 cm-1 range using a built-in reference. High performance and versatility are demonstrated in use cases including quantification of methanol in beverages, in-vivo Raman measurements of human skin, fermentation monitoring, chemical Raman mapping at sub-micrometer resolution, quantitative SERS mapping of the anti-cancer drug methotrexate and in-vitro bacteria identification. We foresee that the miniaturization will allow realization of super-compact Raman spectrometers for integration in smartphones and medical devices, democratizing Raman technology.

Review of optical methods for noninvasive imaging of skin fibroblasts-From in vitro to ex vivo and in vivo visualization

Fibroblasts are among the most common cell types in the stroma responsible for creating and maintaining the structural organization of the extracellular matrix in the dermis, skin regeneration, and a range of immune responses. Until now, the processes of fibroblast adaptation and functioning in a varying environment have not been fully understood. Modern laser microscopes are capable of studying fibroblasts in vitro and ex vivo. One-photon- and two-photon-excited fluorescence microscopy, Raman spectroscopy/microspectroscopy are well-suited noninvasive optical methods for fibroblast imaging in vitro and ex vivo. In vivo staining-free fibroblast imaging is not still implemented. The exception is fibroblast imaging in tattooed skin. Although in vivo noninvasive staining-free imaging of fibroblasts in the skin has not yet been implemented, it is expected in the future. This review summarizes the state-of-the-art in fibroblast visualization using optical methods and discusses the advantages, limitations, and prospects for future noninvasive imaging.

A combined study of skin penetration by confocal Raman spectroscopy and human metabolism: A case of benzophenone-3 in sunscreen

Although numerous experiments on benzophenone-3 (BP3) have shown that it can permeate into the skin, the in vivo penetration situation and urinary metabolic trend have not yet been investigated. In this study, sunscreen containing 5.72% BP3 was selected for human-skin exposure. Confocal Raman was successfully used to investigate in vivo skin penetration of BP3 in sunscreen. During 2 h of skin exposure, the semi-quantitative mean values were 5.50, 13.48, 15.79, and 15.00 μg/cm2 after application of sunscreen for 15, 30, 60, and 120 min, respectively, indicating that BP3 penetrated the stratum corneum during 60-120 min. After a single exposure of human limbs, BP3 was quickly metabolized and excreted through urine and reached its peak concentration in the 6th hour, whereas its metabolite 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (BP1) reached its peak concentration in the 9th hour. Meanwhile, 6% BP3 and 1% BP1 were excreted through the urine within 48 h, but the concentration of 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (BP8) was low, although it varied greatly within 48 h after exposure. During consecutive exposures, a significant correlation (p < 0.05) between BP3 concentration and exposure time was found, indicating that BP3 concentration increased at longer exposure times. Therefore, combining Raman spectroscopy and human sample analysis provided a new way to assess absorption and metabolism of personal care additives in the human body.

Quantitative analysis of age-related changes in vascular structure, oxygen saturation, and epidermal melanin structure using photoacoustic methods

BACKGROUND

Vascular structure, blood oxygen saturation, and melanin status of the epidermis are chromophore factors related to light absorption. Therefore, they are likely to be related to skin appearance. Thus, it is important to measure these internal skin features and understand their characteristics. Thus, we aimed to analyze the individual differences and aging changes in the skin by measuring the internal skin characteristics, such as vascular structure, oxygen saturation, and the 3D distribution of melanin in the epidermis, using a noninvasive photoacoustic (PA) measurement method.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A PA measurement device was used as a noninvasive measurement method. Eighty Japanese women aged between 20 and 60 years were enrolled. The target area was the buccal region of the face.

RESULTS

The blood vessel structure showed a decrease in fine vessels with age, with a stronger tendency observed in the dermis layer, and the volume of blood vessels was larger in the dermis layer than in the dermal-subcutaneous fat boundary layer. Oxygen saturation showed a similar decreasing trend with age in all depths examined. Melanin condition as the torus-like pattern structure tended to increase with age.

CONCLUSION

PA measurements revealed the characteristics of several chromophores, providing a new skin aging mechanism.

Quantification of skin penetration of caffeine and propylene glycol applied topically in a mixture by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares of depth-resolved Raman spectra

The quantitative determination of topically applied substances in the skin is severely limited and represents a challenging task. The porcine skin ex vivo was topically treated with a gel containing caffeine (CF) and propylene glycol (PG), and depth-resolved Raman spectra were recorded with two confocal Raman microscopes. We applied a novel tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares method to the selected spectral regions (512-604 and 778-1148 cm-1 ) of gel-treated skin and quantitatively determined the concentrations of CF and PG in the stratum corneum (SC). The highest concentration of CF (181 mg/cm3 ) was found at the surface, while PG (384 mg/cm3 ) was found at 10% SC depth, indicating the formation of a reservoir at the superficial SC. The concentrations of CF and PG decreased monotonically and reached the detection limit at ≈60% and ≈80% SC depth, respectively, indicating that neither permeate the SC.

Skin Barrier Fine Tuning through Low-Temperature Lipid Chain Transition

The lipids in the mammalian stratum corneum (SC) adopt an unusually rigid arrangement to form a vital barrier preventing water loss and harmful environmental impacts. Just above the physiological temperature, a subset of barrier lipids undergoes a phase transition from a very tight orthorhombic to a looser hexagonal arrangement and vice versa. The purpose of this lipid transition in skin physiology is unknown. Permeability experiments on isolated human SC indicated that the transition affects the activation energy for a model compound that prefers lateral movement along lipid layers but not for water or a large polymer that would cross the SC through the pore pathway. The orthorhombic phase content of SC lipids, as determined by infrared spectroscopy, was also modulated by (de)hydration. Spontaneous rearrangement of human SC lipid monolayers into 10 nm higher multilamellar islets at 32-37 °C but not at room temperature was revealed by atomic force microscopy. Our findings add to our knowledge of fundamental skin physiology suggesting a fine temperature- and hydration-controlled switch from fluid lipids (required for lipid barrier assembly) to rigid and tightly packed lipids in the mature SC (necessary for the water and permeability barriers).

Optimization of diffuse Raman spectroscopy for in-vivo quantification of foreign body response in a small animal model

Diffuse Raman spectroscopy (DRS) allows subsurface molecular analysis of optically turbid samples. Numerical modeling of light propagation was used as a method for improving the design of an DRS instrument to maximize the signal to noise ratio (SNR) while ensuring safe laser exposure parameters required for in-vivo measurements. Experimental validation of the model was performed on both phantom samples and disks implanted postmortem to mimic the typical response to foreign bodies (formation of a fibrotic capsule around an implant). A reduction of laser exposure of over 1500-fold was achieved over previous studies whilst maintaining the same Raman collection rates and reaching the safe power density of 3 mW/mm2. The validation of this approach in a subcutaneous implant in a mouse cadaver showed a further improvement of 1.5-fold SNR, with a thickness limit of detection for the fibrotic layer of 23 µm, under the same acquisition times. In the animal body, a thickness limit of detection of 16 µm was achieved. These results demonstrate the feasibility of numerical model-based optimization for DRS, and that the technique can be improved sufficiently to be used for in-vivo measurement of collagenous capsule formation as a result of the foreign body response in murine models.

Non-invasive biochemical analysis and comparison of atopic dermatitis and psoriasis skin using handheld confocal Raman spectroscopy

A handheld non-invasive confocal Raman system (CRS) was used to evaluate the differences in skin biochemicals between atopic dermatitis (AD) and psoriasis, which are inflammatory skin conditions. Raman spectral measurements in the fingerprint and high wavenumber region were acquired using a portable in-house CRS system with excitation lasers operating at 671 and 785 nm. It was deduced that relative amount of water decreases in the following sequence of skin: healthy, psoriasis and AD. Moreover, differential trends were observed for the subclasses of ceramides such that ceramide 3 is lower in the lesional AD and psoriasis skin as compared to healthy, while ceramide 2 showed a contrasting trend of decrease in lesional AD and increase in lesional psoriasis as opposed to healthy skin. Amount of cholesterol was significantly higher in lesional psoriasis as compared to lesional AD and healthy skin. These differences can aid in an objective classification of the skin conditions and in the formulation of new disease-specific topical treatments.

Strat-M® positioning for skin permeation studies: A comparative study including EpiSkin® RHE, and human skin

In the development and optimization of dermatological products, In Vitro Permeation Testing (IVPT) is pivotal for controlled study of skin penetration. To enhance standardization and replicate human skin properties reconstructed human skin and synthetic membranes are explored as alternatives. Strat-M® is a membrane designed to mimic the multi-layered structure of human skin for IVPT. For instance, in Strat-M®, the steady-state fluxes (JSS) of resorcinol in formulations free of permeation enhancers were found to be 41 ± 5 µg/cm2·h for the aqueous solution, 42 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the hydrogel, and 40 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the oil-in-water emulsion. These results were closer to excised human skin (5 ± 3, 9 ± 2, 13 ± 6 µg/cm2·h) and surpassed the performance of EpiSkin® RHE (138 ± 5, 142 ± 6, and 162 ± 11 µg/cm2·h). While mass spectrometry and Raman microscopy demonstrated the qualitative molecular similarity of EpiSkin® RHE to human skin, it was the porous and hydrophobic polymer nature of Strat-M® that more faithfully reproduced the skin's diffusion-limiting barrier. Further validation through similarity factor analysis (∼80-85%) underscored Strat-M®'s significance as a reliable substitute for human skin, offering a promising approach to enhance realism and reproducibility in dermatological product development.

WASP: Wearable Analytical Skin Probe for Dynamic Monitoring of Transepidermal Water Loss

Early diagnosis of skin barrier dysfunction helps provide timely preventive care against diseases such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, food allergies, and other atopic skin disorders. Skin barrier function is commonly evaluated by measuring the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) through stratum corneum due to its noninvasive characteristics. However, existing commercial TEWL devices are significantly affected by many factors, such as ambient temperature, humidity, air flow, water accumulation, initial water contents on the skin surface, bulky sizes, high costs, and requirements for well-controlled environments. Here, we developed a wearable closed-chamber hygrometer-based TEWL device (Wearable Analytical Skin Probe, WASP) and the related algorithm for accurate and continuous monitoring of skin water vapor flux. The WASP uses short dry air purges to dry the skin surface and chamber before each water vapor flux measurement. Its design ensures a highly controlled local environment, such as consistent initial dry conditions for the skin surface and the chamber. We further applied WASP to measure the water vapor flux from six different locations of a small group of human participants. It is found that the WASP can not only measure and distinguish between insensible sweating (i.e., TEWL) and sensible sweating (i.e., thermal sweating) but also track skin dehydration-rehydration cycles. Comparisons with a commercial TEWL device, AquaFlux, show that the results obtained by both devices agree well. The WASP will be broadly applicable to clinical, cosmetic, and biomedical research.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopic Characterization of Dermatopharmacokinetics Ex Vivo

Confocal Raman spectroscopy is being assessed as a tool with which to quantify the rate and extent of drug uptake to and its clearance from target sites of action within the viable epidermis below the skin's stratum corneum (SC) barrier. The objective of this research was to confirm that Raman can interrogate drug disposition within the living layers of the skin (where many topical drugs elicit their pharmacological effects) and to identify procedures by which Raman signal attenuation with increasing skin depth may be corrected and normalized so that metrics descriptive of topical bioavailability may be identified. It was first shown in experiments on skin cross-sections parallel to the skin surface that the amide I signal, originating primarily from keratin, was quite constant with depth into the skin and could be used to correct for signal attenuation when confocal Raman data were acquired in a "top-down" fashion. Then, using 4-cyanophenol (CP) as a model skin penetrant with a strong Raman-active C≡N functionality, a series of uptake and clearance experiments, performed as a function of time, demonstrated clearly that normalized spectroscopic data were able to detect the penetrant to at least 40-80 μm into the skin and to distinguish the disposition of CP from different vehicles. Metrics related to local bioavailability (and potentially bioequivalence) included areas under the normalized C≡N signal versus depth profiles and elimination rate constants deduced post-removal of the formulations. Finally, Raman measurements were made with an approved dermatological drug, crisaborole, for which delivery from a fully saturated formulation into the skin layers just below the SC was detectable.

The Global Bioequivalence Harmonisation Initiative (GBHI): Report of the fifth international EUFEPS/AAPS conference

The series of conferences of the Global Bioequivalence Harmonisation Initiative (GBHI) was started in 2015 by the European Federation for Pharmaceutical Sciences (EUFEPS). All GBHI meetings so far were co-organised together with the American Association of Pharmaceutical Scientists (AAPS). Beginning with the 3rd workshop US-FDA joined as co-sponsor - to support global harmonisation of regulatory recommendations for bioequivalence (BE) assessment. At the 5th GBHI conference, the following BE topics were intensively discussed, and the following main conclusions were drawn: (1) Statistical considerations for BE assessment in specific situations covering scaling approaches for highly variable drug (HVD) products, two-stage adaptive design and opportunities of modelling and simulation to support BE: even though special BE study concepts like adaptive designs are not often used in practise so far, a majority of the workshop participants were in favour of a more frequent application of such approaches. The regulatory conditions relevant in this context need further concretisation and harmonisation between the regions. Moreover, modelling and simulation were considered as a promising and evolving approach, also for BE development programmes. (2) Fed versus fasting conditions in BE trials: Findings that BE between generic products could be confirmed only after fasted administration but failed under fed conditions seem more an exception than the rule. Obviously, BCS class IV compounds are most problematic in this context. Differences in critical excipients such as surfactants or pH-modifiers may be relevant reasons for different sensitivity for interactions in fasted versus fed conditions. Consequently, such deviations in composition of generic preparations should be avoided. Moreover, confirmation of BE may be generally difficult comparing different dosage forms, such like capsules versus tablets, especially in fed state. (3) BE assessment of locally acting drug products applied topically to the skin: Appropriateness and potential benefit of in-vitro tests as alternatives to clinical efficacy studies have been comprehensively discussed. In addition to the already well-established in-vitro release and permeation tests, other techniques were suggested, e.g., Raman spectroscopy or dermal open flow microperfusion. Validation of those methods is challenging and, despite significant progress already achieved during previous years, more research is needed before they may be fully accepted for regulatory purposes. (4) BE evaluation of narrow therapeutic index (NTI) drugs: The discrepancies amongst regulatory agencies in necessity of tighter BE acceptance ranges, the recommendations for inclusion of peak and total drug exposure into BE assessment with more restrictive criteria and the importance of comparison of the product-related within-subject variability for NTI drugs were debated. Arguments in favour and against the different approaches were presented and discussed but need further consideration before harmonisation can be achieved. The highly interactive meeting and extensive exchange between regulators and scientists from industry and academia resulted in useful progress in open BE issues and supported the goal of science-driven harmonisation.

Altered structure indicating reduced barrier function of lesional compared to non-lesional psoriatic skin-A non-invasive in vivo study of the human stratum corneum with confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

Psoriasis, one of the most common skin diseases affecting roughly 2%-3% of the world population, is associated with a reduced skin barrier function (SBF) that might play an important role in its pathophysiology. The SBF is provided primarily by the stratum corneum (SC) of the skin. Previous studies have revealed a higher trans-epidermal water loss, lower hydration, abnormal concentration and composition of intercellular lipids, as well as alterations in secondary keratin structure in the psoriatic SC. We compared on molecular level lesional psoriatic skin (LPS) with non-lesional psoriatic skin (nLPS) from 19 patients non-invasively in vivo, using confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy. By analysing the corresponding Raman spectra, we determined SBF-defining parameters of the SC depth-dependently. Our results revealed a lower total lipid concentration, a shift of lamellar lipid organisation towards more gauche-conformers and an increase of the less dense hexagonal lateral packing of the intercellular lipids in LPS. Furthermore, we observed lower natural moisturising factor concentration, lower total water as well as a strong tendency towards less strongly bound and more weakly bound water molecules in LPS. Finally, we detected a less stable secondary keratin structure with increased β-sheets, in contrast to the tertiary structure, showing a higher degree of folded keratin in LPS. These findings clearly suggest structural differences indicating a reduced SBF in LPS, and are discussed in juxtaposition to preceding outcomes for psoriatic and healthy skin. Understanding the alterations of the psoriatic SC provides insights into the exact pathophysiology of psoriasis and paves the way for optimal future treatments.

Multispectral Raman Differentiation of Malignant Skin Neoplasms In Vitro: Search for Specific Biomarkers and Optimal Wavelengths

Confocal scanning Raman and photoluminescence (PL) microspectroscopy is a structure-sensitive optical method that allows the non-invasive analysis of biomarkers in the skin tissue. We used it to perform in vitro diagnostics of different malignant skin neoplasms at several excitation wavelengths (532, 785 and 1064 nm). Distinct spectral differences were noticed in the Raman spectra of basal cell carcinoma (BCC) and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), compared with healthy skin. Our analysis of Raman/PL spectra at the different excitation wavelengths enabled us to propose two novel wavelength-independent spectral criteria (intensity ratios for 1302 cm-1 and 1445 cm-1 bands, 1745 cm-1 and 1445 cm-1 bands), related to the different vibrational "fingerprints" of cell membrane lipids as biomarkers, which was confirmed by the multivariate curve resolution (MCR) technique. These criteria allowed us to differentiate healthy skin from BCC and SCC with sensitivity and specificity higher than 95%, demonstrating high clinical importance in the differential diagnostics of skin tumors.

Atopic Dermatitis: Molecular Alterations between Lesional and Non-Lesional Skin Determined Noninvasively by In Vivo Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

Atopic dermatitis (AD)/atopic eczema is a chronic relapsing inflammatory skin disease affecting nearly 14% of the adult population. An important pathogenetic pillar in AD is the disrupted skin barrier function (SBF). The atopic stratum corneum (SC) has been examined using several methods, including Raman microspectroscopy, yet so far, there is no depth-dependent analysis over the entire SC thickness. Therefore, we recruited 21 AD patients (9 female, 12 male) and compared the lesional (LAS) with non-lesional atopic skin (nLAS) in vivo with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Our results demonstrated decreased total intercellular lipid and carotenoid concentrations, as well as a shift towards decreased orthorhombic lateral lipid organisation in LAS. Further, we observed a lower concentration of natural moisturising factor (NMF) and a trend towards increased strongly bound and decreased weakly bound water in LAS. Finally, LAS showed an altered secondary and tertiary keratin structure, demonstrating a more folded keratin state than nLAS. The obtained results are discussed in comparison with healthy skin and yield detailed insights into the atopic SC structure. LAS clearly shows molecular alterations at certain SC depths compared with nLAS which imply a reduced SBF. A thorough understanding of these alterations provides useful information on the aetiology of AD and for the development/control of targeted topical therapies.

The Skin Barrier and Moisturization: Function, Disruption, and Mechanisms of Repair

BACKGROUND

The anatomic layers of the skin are well-defined, and a functional model of the skin barrier has recently been described. Barrier disruption plays a key role in several skin conditions, and moisturization is recommended as an initial treatment in conditions such as atopic dermatitis. This review aimed to analyze the skin barrier in the context of the function model, with a focus on the mechanisms by which moisturizers support each of the functional layers of the skin barrier to promote homeostasis and repair.

SUMMARY

The skin barrier is comprised of four interdependent layers - physical, chemical, microbiologic, and immunologic - which maintain barrier structure and function. Moisturizers target disruption affecting each of these four layers through several mechanisms and were shown to improve transepidermal water loss in several studies. Occlusives, humectants, and emollients occlude the surface of the stratum corneum (SC), draw water from the dermis into the epidermis, and assimilate into the SC, respectively, in order to strengthen the physical skin barrier. Acidic moisturizers bolster the chemical skin barrier by supporting optimal enzymatic function, increasing ceramide production, and facilitating ideal conditions for commensal microorganisms. Regular moisturization may strengthen the immunologic skin barrier by reducing permeability and subsequent allergen penetration and sensitization.

KEY MESSAGES

The physical, chemical, microbiologic, and immunologic layers of the skin barrier are each uniquely impacted in states of skin barrier disruption. Moisturizers target each of the layers of the skin barrier to maintain homeostasis and facilitate repair.

High wavenumber Raman spectroscopy for intraoperative assessment of breast tumour margins

Optimal oncological results and patient outcomes are achieved in surgery for early breast cancer with breast conserving surgery (BCS) where this is appropriate. A limitation of BCS occurs when cancer is present at, or close, to the resection margin - termed a 'positive' margin - and re-excision is recommended to reduce recurrence rate. This is occurs in 17% of BCS in the UK and there is therefore a critical need for a way to assess margin status intraoperatively to ensure complete excision with adequate margins at the first operation. This study presents the potential of high wavenumber (HWN) Raman spectroscopy to address this. Freshly excised specimens from thirty patients undergoing surgery for breast cancer were measured using a surface Raman probe, and a multivariate classification model to predict normal versus tumour was developed from the data. This model achieved 77.1% sensitivity and 90.8% specificity following leave one patient out cross validation, with the defining features being differences in water content and lipid versus protein content. This demonstrates the feasibility of HWN Raman spectroscopy to facilitate future intraoperative margin assessment at specific locations. Clinical utility of the approach will require further research.

Optical Methods for Non-Invasive Determination of Skin Penetration: Current Trends, Advances, Possibilities, Prospects, and Translation into In Vivo Human Studies

Information on the penetration depth, pathways, metabolization, storage of vehicles, active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), and functional cosmetic ingredients (FCIs) of topically applied formulations or contaminants (substances) in skin is of great importance for understanding their interaction with skin targets, treatment efficacy, and risk assessment-a challenging task in dermatology, cosmetology, and pharmacy. Non-invasive methods for the qualitative and quantitative visualization of substances in skin in vivo are favored and limited to optical imaging and spectroscopic methods such as fluorescence/reflectance confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM); two-photon tomography (2PT) combined with autofluorescence (2PT-AF), fluorescence lifetime imaging (2PT-FLIM), second-harmonic generation (SHG), coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS), and reflectance confocal microscopy (2PT-RCM); three-photon tomography (3PT); confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy (CRM); surface-enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) micro-spectroscopy; stimulated Raman scattering (SRS) microscopy; and optical coherence tomography (OCT). This review summarizes the state of the art in the use of the CLSM, 2PT, 3PT, CRM, SERS, SRS, and OCT optical methods to study skin penetration in vivo non-invasively (302 references). The advantages, limitations, possibilities, and prospects of the reviewed optical methods are comprehensively discussed. The ex vivo studies discussed are potentially translatable into in vivo measurements. The requirements for the optical properties of substances to determine their penetration into skin by certain methods are highlighted.

Raman spectroscopy to discriminate laryngeal squamous cell carcinoma from non-cancerous surrounding tissue

As for many solid cancers, laryngeal cancer is treated surgically, and adequate resection margins are critical for survival. Raman spectroscopy has the capacity to accurately differentiate between cancer and non-cancerous tissue based on their molecular composition, which has been proven in previous work. The aim of this study is to investigate whether Raman spectroscopy can be used to discriminate laryngeal cancer from surrounding non-cancerous tissue. Patients surgically treated for laryngeal cancer were included. Raman mapping experiments were performed ex vivo on resection specimens and correlated to histopathology. Water concentration analysis and CH-stretching region analysis were performed in the high wavenumber range of 2500-4000 cm-1. Thirty-four mapping experiments on 22 resection specimens were used for analysis. Both laryngeal cancer and all non-cancerous tissue structures showed high water concentrations of around 75%. Discriminative information was only found to be present in the CH-stretching region of the Raman spectra of the larynx (discriminative power of 0.87). High wavenumber region Raman spectroscopy can discriminate laryngeal cancer from non-cancerous tissue structures. Contrary to the findings for oral cavity cancer, water concentration is not a discriminating factor for laryngeal cancer.

Intraoperative assessment of resection margins by Raman spectroscopy to guide oral cancer surgery

Patients with oral cavity cancer are almost always treated with surgery. The goal is to remove the tumor with a margin of more than 5 mm of surrounding healthy tissue. Unfortunately, this is only achieved in about 15% to 26% of cases. Intraoperative assessment of tumor resection margins (IOARM) can dramatically improve surgical results. However, current methods are laborious, subjective, and logistically demanding. This hinders broad adoption of IOARM, to the detriment of patients. Here we present the development and validation of a high-wavenumber Raman spectroscopic technology, for quick and objective intraoperative measurement of resection margins on fresh specimens. It employs a thin fiber-optic needle probe, which is inserted into the tissue, to measure the distance between a resection surface and the tumor. A tissue classification model was developed to discriminate oral cavity squamous cell carcinoma (OCSCC) from healthy oral tissue, with a sensitivity of 0.85 and a specificity of 0.92. The tissue classification model was then used to develop a margin length prediction model, showing a mean difference between margin length predicted by Raman spectroscopy and histopathology of -0.17 mm.

Measurement of chemical penetration in skin using Stimulated Raman scattering microscopy and multivariate curve resolution - alternating least squares

The mechanistic understanding of skin penetration underpins the design, efficacy and risk assessment of many high-value products including functional personal care products, topical and transdermal drugs. Stimulated Raman scattering (SRS) microscopy, a label free chemical imaging tool, combines molecular spectroscopy with submicron spatial information to map the distribution of chemicals as they penetrate the skin. However, the quantification of penetration is hampered by significant interference from Raman signals of skin constituents. This study reports a method for disentangling exogeneous contributions and measuring their permeation profile through human skin combining SRS measurements with chemometrics. We investigated the spectral decomposition capability of multivariate curve resolution - alternating least squares (MCR-ALS) using hyperspectral SRS images of skin dosed with 4-cyanophenol. By performing MCR-ALS on the fingerprint region spectral data, the distribution of 4-cyanophenol in skin was estimated in an attempt to quantify the amount permeated at different depths. The reconstructed distribution was compared with the experimental mapping of CN, a strong vibrational peak in 4-cyanophenol where the skin is spectroscopically silent. The similarity between MCR-ALS resolved and experimental distribution in skin dosed for 4 h was 0.79 which improved to 0.91 for skin dosed for 1 h. The correlation was observed to be lower for deeper layers of skin where SRS signal intensity is low which is an indication of low sensitivity of SRS. This work is the first demonstration, to the best of our knowledge, of combining SRS imaging technique with spectral unmixing methods for direct observation and mapping of the chemical penetration and distribution in biological tissues.

Noninvasive Monitoring to Detect Dehydration: Are We There Yet?

The need for hydration monitoring is significant, especially for the very young and elderly populations who are more vulnerable to becoming dehydrated and suffering from the effects that dehydration brings. This need has been among the drivers of considerable effort in the academic and commercial sectors to provide a means for monitoring hydration status, with a special interest in doing so outside the hospital or clinical setting. This review of emerging technologies provides an overview of many technology approaches that, on a theoretical basis, have sensitivity to water and are feasible as a routine measurement. We review the evidence of technical validation and of their use in humans. Finally, we highlight the essential need for these technologies to be rigorously evaluated for their diagnostic potential, as a necessary step to meet the need for hydration monitoring outside of the clinical environment.

Molecular Fingerprint Detection Using Raman and Infrared Spectroscopy Technologies for Cancer Detection: A Progress Review

Molecular vibrations play a crucial role in physical chemistry and biochemistry, and Raman and infrared spectroscopy are the two most used techniques for vibrational spectroscopy. These techniques provide unique fingerprints of the molecules in a sample, which can be used to identify the chemical bonds, functional groups, and structures of the molecules. In this review article, recent research and development activities for molecular fingerprint detection using Raman and infrared spectroscopy are discussed, with a focus on identifying specific biomolecules and studying the chemical composition of biological samples for cancer diagnosis applications. The working principle and instrumentation of each technique are also discussed for a better understanding of the analytical versatility of vibrational spectroscopy. Raman spectroscopy is an invaluable tool for studying molecules and their interactions, and its use is likely to continue to grow in the future. Research has demonstrated that Raman spectroscopy is capable of accurately diagnosing various types of cancer, making it a valuable alternative to traditional diagnostic methods such as endoscopy. Infrared spectroscopy can provide complementary information to Raman spectroscopy and detect a wide range of biomolecules at low concentrations, even in complex biological samples. The article concludes with a comparison of the techniques and insights into future directions.

Red- and Near-Infrared-Excited Autofluorescence as a Marker for Acute Oxidative Stress in Skin Exposed to Cigarette Smoke Ex Vivo and In Vivo

Air pollution is increasing worldwide and skin is exposed to high levels of pollution daily, causing oxidative stress and other negative consequences. The methods used to determine oxidative stress in the skin are invasive and non-invasive label-free in vivo methods, which are severely limited. Here, a non-invasive and label-free method to determine the effect of cigarette smoke (CS) exposure on skin ex vivo (porcine) and in vivo (human) was established. The method is based on the measurement of significant CS-exposure-induced enhancement in red- and near-infrared (NIR)-excited autofluorescence (AF) intensities in the skin. To understand the origin of red- and NIR-excited skin AF, the skin was exposed to several doses of CS in a smoking chamber. UVA irradiation was used as a positive control of oxidative stress in the skin. The skin was measured with confocal Raman microspectroscopy before CS exposure, immediately after CS exposure, and after skin cleaning. CS exposure significantly increased the intensity of red- and NIR-excited skin AF in a dose-dependent manner in the epidermis, as confirmed by laser scanning microscopy AF imaging and fluorescence spectroscopy measurements. UVA irradiation enhanced the intensity of AF, but to a lower extent than CS exposure. We concluded that the increase in red- and NIR-excited AF intensities of the skin after CS exposure could clearly be related to the induction of oxidative stress in skin, where skin surface lipids are mainly oxidized.

Human glabrous skin contains crystallized urea dendriform structures in the stratum corneum which affect the hydration levels

Glabrous skin is hair-free skin with a high density of sweat glands, which is found on the palms, and soles of mammalians, covered with a thick stratum corneum. Dry hands are often an occupational problem which deserves attention from dermatologists. Urea is found in the skin as a component of the natural moisturizing factor and of sweat. We report the discovery of dendrimer structures of crystalized urea in the stratum corneum of palmar glabrous skin using laser scanning microscopy. The chemical and structural nature of the urea crystallites was investigated in vivo by non-invasive techniques. The relation of crystallization to skin hydration was explored. We analysed the index finger, small finger and tenar palmar area of 18 study participants using non-invasive optical methods, such as laser scanning microscopy, Raman microspectroscopy and two-photon tomography. Skin hydration was measured using corneometry. Crystalline urea structures were found in the stratum corneum of about two-thirds of the participants. Participants with a higher density of crystallized urea structures exhibited a lower skin hydration. The chemical nature and the crystalline structure of the urea were confirmed by Raman microspectroscopy and by second harmonic generated signals in two-photon tomography. The presence of urea dendrimer crystals in the glabrous skin seems to reduce the water binding capacity leading to dry hands. These findings highlight a new direction in understanding the mechanisms leading to dry hands and open opportunities for the development of better moisturizers and hand disinfection products and for diagnostic of dry skin.

An optical system for noninvasive microscopy of psoriatic mice in vivo

Psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory skin disease involved with both complex morphological changes of skin and immune processes. The clinical diagnostics and research of psoriasis often require invasive biopsy which lacks their real-time dynamics in vivo. Here we report a noninvasive microscopic system developed by combining in vivo fluorescent microscopy, optical clearing, and immunolabeling to enable real-time imaging of immune cells and cytokines in blood flow in psoriatic animal models. The vascular morphology and time-lapse kinetics of interleukin (IL)-23, IL-17, tumor necrosis factor-α, and CD4+ cells in blood are captured at submicron resolution through the thickening epidermis and opaque scales during the development of psoriasis in vivo. Our data suggest IL-23 recruits CD4+ cells to release IL-17 in blood that further leaks out in the psoriatic skin area. This optical system enables noninvasive and real-time assessment of immune molecules and cells in vivo, providing good potential for medical researches on psoriasis.

Early initiation of short-term emollient use for the prevention of atopic dermatitis in high-risk infants-The STOP-AD randomised controlled trial

BACKGROUND

Protecting the skin barrier in early infancy may prevent atopic dermatitis (AD). We investigated if daily emollient use from birth to 2 months reduced AD incidence in high-risk infants at 12 months.

METHODS

This was a single-center, two-armed, investigator-blinded, randomized controlled clinical trial (NCT03871998). Term infants identified as high risk for AD (parental history of AD, asthma or allergic rhinitis) were recruited within 4 days of birth and randomised 1:1 to either twice-daily emollient application for the first 8 weeks of life (intervention group), using an emollient specifically formulated for very dry, AD-prone skin, or to standard routine skin care (control group). The primary outcome was cumulative AD incidence at 12 months. AD <6 months was diagnosed based on clinical presence of AD. The UK Working Party Diagnostic Criteria were applied when diagnosing AD between 6 and 12 months.

RESULTS

Three hundred twenty-one were randomised (161 intervention and 160 control), with 61 withdrawals (41 intervention, 20 control). The cumulative incidence of AD at 12 months was 32.8% in the intervention group vs. 46.4% in the control group, p = 0.036 [Relative risk (95%CI): 0.707 (0.516, 0.965)]. One infant in the intervention group was withdrawn from the study following development of a rash that had a potential relationship with the emollient. There was no significant difference in the incidence of skin infections between the intervention and control groups during the intervention period (5.0% vs. 5.7%, p > 0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

This study has demonstrated that early initiation of daily specialized emollient use until 2 months reduces the incidence of AD in the first year of life in high-risk infants.

Simultaneous Dual-Wavelength Source Raman Spectroscopy with a Handheld Confocal Probe for Analysis of the Chemical Composition of In Vivo Human Skin

Confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) is a powerful tool that has been widely used for biological tissue analysis because of its noninvasive nature, high specificity, and rich biochemical information. However, current commercial CRS systems suffer from limited detection regions (450-1750 cm-1), bulky sizes, nonflexibilities, slow acquisitions by consecutive excitations, and high costs if using a Fourier transform (FT) Raman spectroscopy with an InGaAs detector, which impede their adoption in clinics. In this study, we developed a portable CRS system with a simultaneous dual-wavelength source and a miniaturized handheld probe (120 mm × 60 mm × 50 mm) that can acquire spectra in both fingerprint (FP, 450-1750 cm-1) and high wavenumber (HW, 2800-3800 cm-1) regions simultaneously. An innovative design combining 671 and 785 nm lasers for simultaneous excitation through a compact and high-efficiency (>90%) wavelength combiner was implemented. Moreover, to decouple the fused FP and HW spectra, a first-of-its-kind precise Raman spectra separation algorithm (PRSSA) was developed based on the maximum a posteriori probability (MAP) estimate. The accuracy of spectra separation was greater than 99%, demonstrated in both phantom experiments and in vivo human skin measurements. The total data acquisition time was reduced by greater than 50% compared to other CRS systems. The results proved our proposed CRS system and PRSSA's superior capability in fast and ultrawideband spectra acquisition will significantly improve the integration of CRS in the clinical workflow.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopy for Assessing Bioequivalence of Topical Formulations

The evaluation of bioequivalence (BE) for topical dermatological drug products is challenging, and there has been significant interest from regulatory authorities in developing new BE methodologies in recent years. Currently, BE is demonstrated by comparative clinical endpoint studies; these are costly and time-consuming and often lack sensitivity and reproducibility. Previously, we reported excellent correlations between in vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy in human subjects and in vitro skin permeation testing (IVPT) with the human epidermis for skin delivery of ibuprofen and a number of excipients. The aim of the present proof-of-concept study was to evaluate CRS as a method to assess BE of topical products. Two commercially available formulations, Nurofen Max Strength 10% Gel and Ibuleve Speed Relief Max Strength 10% Gel, were selected for evaluation. Delivery of ibuprofen (IBU) to the skin was determined in vitro and in vivo by IVPT and CRS, respectively. The formulations examined were found to deliver comparable amounts of IBU across the skin over 24 h in vitro (p > 0.05). Additionally, the formulations resulted in similar skin uptake values measured with CRS in vivo, either at 1 h or 2 h after application (p > 0.05). This is the first study to report the capability of CRS for the demonstration of BE of dermal products. Future studies will focus on the standardisation of the CRS methodology for a robust and reproducible pharmacokinetic (PK)-based evaluation of topical BE.

Functional nano-systems for transdermal drug delivery and skin therapy

Transdermal drug delivery is one of the least intrusive and patient-friendly ways for therapeutic agent administration. Recently, functional nano-systems have been demonstrated as one of the most promising strategies to treat skin diseases by improving drug penetration across the skin barrier and achieving therapeutically effective drug concentrations in the target cutaneous tissues. Here, a brief review of functional nano-systems for promoting transdermal drug delivery is presented. The fundamentals of transdermal delivery, including skin biology and penetration routes, are introduced. The characteristics of functional nano-systems for facilitating transdermal drug delivery are elucidated. Moreover, the fabrication of various types of functional transdermal nano-systems is systematically presented. Multiple techniques for evaluating the transdermal capacities of nano-systems are illustrated. Finally, the advances in the applications of functional transdermal nano-systems for treating different skin diseases are summarized.

Monitoring dexamethasone skin biodistribution with ex vivo MALDI-TOF mass spectrometry imaging and confocal Raman microscopy

Two of the most promising techniques in terms of ex vivo skin imaging and quantifying are confocal Raman microscopy and MALDI-TOF mass spectrometry imaging (MALDI-TOF MSI). Both techniques were set up, and the semiquantitative skin biodistribution of previously developed dexamethasone (DEX) loaded lipomers was compared using Benzalkonium chloride (BAK) as a tracer of the nanoparticles. In MALDI-TOF MSI, DEX was derivatised with GirT (DEX-GirT) and the semiquantitative biodistribution of both DEX-GirT and BAK was successfully obtained. The amount of DEX measured by confocal Raman microscopy was higher than that measured by MALDI-TOF MSI, but MALDI-TOF MSI proved to be a more suitable technique for tracing BAK. An absorption-promoting tendency of DEX loaded in lipomers versus a free-DEX solution was observed in confocal Raman microscopy. The higher spatial resolution of confocal Raman microscopy (350 nm) with respect to MALDI-TOF MSI (50 μm) allowed to observe specific skin structures like hair follicles. Nevertheless, the faster sampling rate of MALDI-TOF-MSI, permitted the analysis of larger tissue regions. In conclusion, both techniques allowed to simultaneously analyze semiquantitative data together with qualitative images of biodistribution, which is a very helpful tool when designing nanoparticles that accumulate in specific anatomical regions.

Quantitative Assessment of Low-Dose Photodynamic Therapy Effects on Diabetic Wound Healing Using Raman Spectroscopy

One of challenges that faces diabetes is the wound healing process. The delayed diabetic wound healing is caused by a complicated molecular mechanism involving numerous physiological variables. Low-dose photodynamic therapy (LDPDT) provides excellent results in rejuvenation and wound healing. In this study, the LDPDT effect on diabetic wounds in mice was studied using two photosensitizers, 5-aminolevulinic acid and methylene blue, and two laser dose expositions of 1 J/cm² and 4 J/cm² by Raman spectroscopy (RS). The latter was used as a noninvasive method, providing specific information about tissue state based on the fundamental vibrational modes of its molecular components. RS allows high spatial resolution acquisition of biochemical and structural information through the generation of point spectra or spectral images. An approach to in vivo quantitative assessment of diabetic wound healing state was developed. This approach is based on an application of the principal component analysis combined with the Mahalanobis metrics to skin Raman spectra, in particular, intensities of the amide I and CH₂ bands.

Variabilities in global DNA methylation and β-sheet richness establish spectroscopic landscapes among subtypes of pancreatic cancer

PURPOSE

Knowledge about pancreatic cancer (PC) biology has been growing rapidly in recent decades. Nevertheless, the survival of PC patients has not greatly improved. The development of a novel methodology suitable for deep investigation of the nature of PC tumors is of great importance. Molecular imaging techniques, such as Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy and Raman hyperspectral mapping (RHM) combined with advanced multivariate data analysis, were useful in studying the biochemical composition of PC tissue.

METHODS

Here, we evaluated the potential of molecular imaging in differentiating three groups of PC tumors, which originate from different precursor lesions. Specifically, we comprehensively investigated adenocarcinomas (ACs): conventional ductal AC, intraductal papillary mucinous carcinoma, and ampulla of Vater AC. FTIR microspectroscopy and RHM maps of 24 PC tissue slides were obtained, and comprehensive advanced statistical analyses, such as hierarchical clustering and nonnegative matrix factorization, were performed on a total of 211,355 Raman spectra. Additionally, we employed deep learning technology for the same task of PC subtyping to enable automation. The so-called convolutional neural network (CNN) was trained to recognize spectra specific to each PC group and then employed to generate CNN-prediction-based tissue maps. To identify the DNA methylation spectral markers, we used differently methylated, isolated DNA and compared the observed spectral differences with the results obtained from cellular nuclei regions of PC tissues.

RESULTS

The results showed significant differences among cancer tissues of the studied PC groups. The main findings are the varying content of β-sheet-rich proteins within the PC cells and alterations in the relative DNA methylation level. Our CNN model efficiently differentiated PC groups with 94% accuracy. The usage of CNN in the classification task did not require Raman spectral data preprocessing and eliminated the need for extensive knowledge of statistical methodologies.

CONCLUSIONS

Molecular spectroscopy combined with CNN technology is a powerful tool for PC detection and subtyping. The molecular fingerprint of DNA methylation and β-sheet cytoplasmic proteins established by our results is different for the main PC groups and allowed the subtyping of pancreatic tumors, which can improve patient management and increase their survival. Our observations are of key importance in understanding the variability of PC and allow translation of the methodology into clinical practice by utilizing liquid biopsy testing.

Quantitative determination of concentration profiles of skin components and topically applied oils by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares using in vivo confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

The main components of the stratum corneum (SC), water, lipids, and proteins, are non-homogeneously distributed throughout the depth. The quantitative determination of their concentration profiles and penetration depth of topically applied substances are urgent topics of dermatological and cosmetic research. Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy has distinct advantages when determining semi-quantitative concentrations of SC components and topically applied substances non-invasively and in vivo. In this work, we applied a tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (tMCR-ALS) method to analyze Raman spectra of the SC in the 2000-4000 cm-1 region for quantitatively determining the concentrations of water, lipids, proteins, and topically applied oils using substance-related spectral loadings which were allowed to change depth-dependently from the SC's surface toward its bottom. tMCR-ALS makes matching of depth-dependent signal attenuation, that is, the normalization on keratin, unnecessary and requires only a few additional experiments for calibration - Raman spectra of the pure materials and their densities.

Assessment of penetration and permeation of caffeine by confocal Raman spectroscopy in vivo and ex vivo by tape stripping

OBJECTIVE

Tape stripping is an often-used non-invasive destructive method to investigate the skin penetration of a substance. In recent years, however, the suitability of confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) as a non-invasive method of non-destructive examination of the skin has become increasingly apparent. In this study, we compared invasion and depletion penetration and permeation kinetics of a 2% caffeine solution with and without 1,2-pentanediol as a penetration enhancer measured with CRS and tape stripping.

METHODS

Porcine skin was used for tape stripping and human skin for CRS. 2% caffeine solution was applied to the skin for different incubation times. Human skin was then examined by CRS while caffeine was extracted from porcine skin and quantified via reverse-phase HPLC. Fluxes were also measured and calculated by sum of the total amounts of caffeine penetrated into the skin.

RESULTS

Without penetration enhancers, there is hardly any difference between the penetration profiles of the two measurement methods for invasion, but the curves for depletion are different. Furthermore, the calculated flux values for the invasion are almost identical, but for the depletion the tape stripping values are about twice as high as the CRS values.

CONCLUSION

The relevance of conducting invasion and depletion studies became clear and was able to show the still existing problems in the comparability of CRS and tape stripping.

Atopic Dermatitis and Water: Is There an Optimum Water Intake Level for Improving Atopic Skin?

Water is a vital nutrient with innumerable functions for every living cell. The functions of human skin include protection against dehydration of the body. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic pruritic inflammatory skin disease that presents with dry skin, erythematous and eczematous lesions, and lichenification. This paper discusses the question of whether extra water intake in children with AD affects skin hydration and the skin barrier function. Among the methods used to treat dry skin, topical leave-on products are the first-line treatment, intended to improve hydration and the skin barrier function. The effectiveness of adequate water intake as a measure to treat dry skin is still under debate. Normal skin hydration increases with dietary water intake, particularly in those with prior lower water consumption. Skin dryness in AD is instrumental to the itch and inflammation cycle, contributing to barrier impairment and aggravating disease severity and flares. Certain emollients provide significant hydration to AD skin, with relief of dryness and reduction in barrier impairment, disease severity, and flares. Further investigations are needed to evaluate the optimum water intake levels in children with AD, as important questions remain unanswered, namely, does oral hydration provide relief of skin dryness and reduce barrier impairment, disease severity, and flares; is there any additional benefit from using mineral or thermal spring water; or is there a need to specifically study the fluid/water intake in children with AD and food allergy (FA) restrictions?

How do the skin barrier and microbiome adapt to the extra-uterine environment after birth? Implications for the clinical practice

The multiple protective functions of the skin derive from the interactions between epithelial skin and immune cells as well as the commensal microbiota. Developed in the last trimester of intra-uterine life, the skin barrier adapts dynamically after birth. Specific differences in the structure and physiology have been disclosed between infant and adult skin. The stratum corneum of infants is thinner and structured by thicker corneocytes with a more anisotropic surface in comparison to adult skin. Lower levels of the natural moisturizing factor and its constituents, together with the increased protease activity in the epidermis result in dry baby skin and ongoing adaptation of the desquamation to the extra-uterine environment. Infant epidermis is characterized by an accelerated proliferation rate and clinically competent permeability barrier in term neonates, despite the higher baseline values of transepidermal water loss in infants. The skin surface of newborns is less acidic, which could increase susceptibility to diaper and atopic dermatitis. Immediately after birth, skin is colonized by commensal bacteria-a process dependent on the mode of delivery and of major importance for the maturation of the immune system. Skin bacterial diversity and dysbiosis have been related to different pathology such as atopic and seborrheic dermatitis. This paper focuses on the ongoing structural, functional and biochemical adaptation of the human skin barrier after birth. We discuss the interactions on the 'skin barrier/ microbiota/ immune system' axis and their role in the development of competent functional integrity of the epidermal barrier.

Cosmetic Formulations with Melaleuca alternifolia Essential Oil for the Improvement of Photoaged Skin: A Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study

This aim of this study was to evaluate the penetration depth, antioxidant capacity and the clinical efficacy of Melaleuca alternifolia pure essential oil and in a nanoemulsion to prevent skin photoaging. For this, 2% of pure essential oil or 2% of this essential oil in a nanoemulsion were vehiculated in a formulation. The skin penetration was evaluated using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The radical protection factor was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. For a clinical study, 40 male participants, aged 18-28 years, were enrolled, being divided into three groups: vehicle formulation, M. alternifolia pure essential oil and M. alternifolia Nanoemulsion. All the participants also received a sunscreen SPF 50 to use during the day. Before and after 90 days of study, skin hydrolipidics and morphological characteristics were performed by skin imaging and biophysical techniques. The nanoemulsion presented a lower antioxidant capacity and a higher penetration through the stratum corneum, reaching the viable epidermis, improving the stratum granulosum morphology. The groups presented an increase in the papillary depth, improving in the dermis echogenicity and the collagen fibers. Melaleuca alternifolia essential provides the potential to improve photoaged skin, being the application of nanoemulsion able to reach deeper skin layers.

In vivo analysis of the stratum corneum of Japanese neonates and infants using confocal Raman spectroscopy: a pilot study

BACKGROUND

Physiological skin properties of neonates and infants change drastically after birth and are implicated in the onset of atopic dermatitis and other diseases. Studies have measured physiological skin properties in infants; however, how these properties change over time remains unclear. No reports have measured ceramide in the stratum corneum of infants using confocal Raman spectroscopy; hence, we used it to measure the physiological properties of the skin, including ceramide, in infants.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The water content and other factors in the skin of infants aged 0, 1, and 6 months were measured. All measurements were performed five times indoors at 22 ± 2°C and 50% ± 10% relative humidity in the middle of the calf at 4-µm distances, and their mean was calculated.

RESULTS

The water content of the area between the skin surface and superficial layers was the lowest in newborns as compared with other ages, and the deeper the skin layer, the higher the water content. The stratum corneum, evaluated using confocal Raman spectroscopy, was the thickest in newborns and gradually thinned with age. Its water content was the lowest in newborns. The levels of natural moisturizing factor, ceramide, and cholesterol were higher in newborns and tended to decrease with age.

CONCLUSION

This report is the first to evaluate ceramide in the stratum corneum of infants using confocal Raman spectroscopy and could help in conducting subsequent longitudinal measurements of physiological skin properties in neonates and infants.

Glycerol and natural sugar-derived complex modulate differentially stratum corneum water-binding properties and structural parameters in an in vitro Raman-desorption model

The epidermal protective functions are closely associated with skin hydration homeostasis. The understanding of different states of water binding is a rising concept in assessing topically applied formulations and their interaction within the stratum corneum (SC). In addition to global water content, primary bound water, partially bound water, and unbound water and barrier-related lipid lateral packing and protein secondary structure can be measured by Raman spectroscopy. This study aimed to establish an in vitro SC model to evaluate differences in the efficacy of a natural sugar-derived complex in combination with glycerol and a botanical extract in modulating SC water binding and structural proteins and barrier lipids. These compounds were selected due to their water-binding and soothing properties. The SC water profiles were assessed at the surface and in 8 μm SC depth. After a 12-hour hyperhydration and subsequent product incubation the measurements were performed during a 6 hours desiccation phase. The maximal water caption and the time until reaching a steady state are measured as well as water retention and resistance against water loss. Global water content, partially bound, and unbound water, as well as lipid and protein structures were assessed with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Both the natural sugar-derived mixture and more pronounced, the same mixture with additional glycerol increased all three water-binding parameters at the surface and in 8 μm SC depth at the beginning and during the desiccation phase. Further addition of botanical extract did not result in an additional increase of the water-binding. All three formulations showed an increase in the lipid lateral packing values prevented the protein alteration as measured by β-sheets signal compared to blank. The present model is suited for screening studies comparing the specific effects of different compounds on hydration states. The natural sugar-derived mixture Aquaxyl showed evidence for an improvement of all SC hydration states, lipid and protein structure which was further enhanced by the addition of glycerol 5%. This improvement was evidenced at the surface and within the SC for all hydration-related parameters, and the lipid as well the protein structures. The addition of botanical extract phytoessence blue daisy did not show further improvement.

Raman Spectroscopy of Carotenoid Compounds for Clinical Applications-A Review

Carotenoid compounds are ubiquitous in nature, providing the characteristic colouring of many algae, bacteria, fruits and vegetables. They are a critical component of the human diet and play a key role in human nutrition, health and disease. Therefore, the clinical importance of qualitative and quantitative carotene content analysis is increasingly recognised. In this review, the structural and optical properties of carotenoid compounds are reviewed, differentiating between those of carotenes and xanthophylls. The strong non-resonant and resonant Raman spectroscopic signatures of carotenoids are described, and advances in the use of Raman spectroscopy to identify carotenoids in biological environments are reviewed. Focus is drawn to applications in nutritional analysis, optometry and serology, based on in vitro and ex vivo measurements in skin, retina and blood, and progress towards establishing the technique in a clinical environment, as well as challenges and future perspectives, are explored.

Skin Microbiome, Metabolome and Skin Phenome, from the Perspectives of Skin as an Ecosystem

Skin is a complex ecosystem colonized by millions of microorganisms, including bacteria, fungi, and viruses. Skin microbiota is believed to exert critical functions in maintaining host skin health. Profiling the structure of skin microbial community is the first step to overview the ecosystem. However, the community composition is highly individualized and extremely complex. To explore the fundamental factors driving the complexity of the ecosystem, namely the selection pressures, we review the present studies on skin microbiome from the perspectives of ecology. This review summarizes the following: (1) the composition of substances/nutrients in the cutaneous ecological environment that are derived from the host and the environment, highlighting their proposed function on skin microbiota; (2) the features of dominant skin commensals to occupy ecological niches, through self-adaptation and microbe-microbe interactions; (3) how skin microbes, by their structures or bioactive molecules, reshape host skin phenotypes, including skin immunity, maintenance of skin physiology such as pH and hydration, ultraviolet (UV) protection, odor production, and wound healing. This review aims to re-examine the host-microbe interactions from the ecological perspectives and hopefully to give new inspiration to this field.

Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare

BACKGROUND

This review covers the last 20 years of research we and our collaborators have conducted on ethnic differences in facial skin moisturization placed in historical context with previous research.

METHODS

We have focussed particularly on the biochemical and cellular gradients of the stratum corneum (SC) with the aim of discovering new skin moisturization and SC maturation mechanisms, identifying new technologies and/or providing conceptual innovations for ingredients that will improve our understanding and treatment of dry skin. Specifically, we discuss gradients for corneodesmosomes and proteases, corneocyte phenotype-inducing enzymes, filaggrin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and barrier lipids. These gradients are interdependent and influence greatly corneocyte maturation.

RESULTS

The interrelationship between corneodesmolysis and the covalent attachment of ω-hydroxy ceramides and ω-hydroxy fatty acids to the corneocyte protein envelope forming the corneocyte lipid envelope is especially relevant in our new understanding of mechanisms leading to dry skin. This process is initiated by a linoleoyl-ω-acyl ceramide transforming enzyme cascade including 12R lipoxygenase (12R-LOX), epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3), epoxide hydrolase 3 (EPHX3), short-chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7), ceramidase and transglutaminase 1.

CONCLUSION

Our research has opened the opportunity of using novel treatment systems for dry skin based on lipids, humectants, niacinamide and inhibitors of the plasminogen system. It is clear that skin moisturization is a more complex mechanism than simple skin hydration.

Topical Semisolid Products-Understanding the Impact of Metamorphosis on Skin Penetration and Physicochemical Properties

Recently, the United States Food and Drug Administration published a series of product-specific guidance for the development of topical drugs, with in vitro options consisting of qualitative sameness (Q1) and quantitative sameness (Q2) assessment of formulations, physiochemical and structural characterization of formulations (Q3), and, potentially, in vitro drug release and permeation tests. In these tests, the topical semisolid product's critical quality attributes (CQAs), such as rheological properties, thermodynamic activity, particle size, globule size, and rate/extent of drug release/permeation, are evaluated to ensure the desired product quality. However, alterations in these CQAs of the drug products may occur under 'in use' conditions because of various metamorphosis events, such as evaporation that leads to supersaturation and crystallization, which may eventually result in specific failure modes of semisolid products. Under 'in use' conditions, a limited amount of formulation is applied to the skin, where physicochemical characteristics of the formulation are substantially altered from primary state to secondary and, eventually, tertiary state on the skin. There is an urgent need to understand the behavior of topical semisolid products under 'in use' conditions. In this review, we attempt to cover a series of metamorphosis events and their impact on CQAs (Q3 attributes), such as viscosity, drug activity, particle size, globule size, and drug release/permeation of topical semisolid products.