Alternative in vitro models used in the main safety tests of cosmetic products and new challenges

Marine cosmetics and the blue bioeconomy: From sourcing to success stories

As the global population continues to grow, so does the demand for longer, healthier lives and environmentally responsible choices. Consumers are increasingly drawn to naturally sourced products with proven health and wellbeing benefits. The marine environment presents a promising yet underexplored resource for the cosmetics industry, offering bioactive compounds with the potential for safe and biocompatible ingredients. This manuscript provides a comprehensive overview of the potential of marine organisms for cosmetics production, highlighting marine-derived compounds and their applications in skin/hair/oral-care products, cosmeceuticals and more. It also lays down critical safety considerations and addresses the methodologies for sourcing marine compounds, including harvesting, the biorefinery concept, use of systems biology for enhanced product development, and the relevant regulatory landscape. The review is enriched by three case studies: design of macroalgal skincare products in Iceland, establishment of a microalgal cosmetics spin-off in Italy, and the utilization of marine proteins for cosmeceutical applications.

Biological Scaffolds in 3D Cell Models: Driving Innovation in Drug Discovery

The discipline of 3D cell modeling is currently undergoing a surge of captivating developments that are enhancing the realism and utility of tissue simulations. Using bioinks which represent cells, scaffolds, and growth factors scientists can construct intricate tissue architectures layer by layer using innovations like 3D bioprinting. Drug testing can be accelerated and organ functions more precisely replicated owing to the precise control that microfluidic technologies and organ-on-chip devices offer over the cellular environment. Tissue engineering is becoming more dynamic with materials that can modify their surroundings with the advent of hydrogels and smart biomaterials. Advances in spheroids and organoids are not only bringing us towards more effective and customized therapies, but they are also improving their ability to resemble actual human tissues. Confocal and two-photon microscopy are examples of advanced imaging methods that provide precise images of the functioning and interaction of cells. Artificial Intelligence models have applications for enhanced scaffold designs and for predicting the response of tissues to medications. Furthermore, via strengthening predictive models, optimizing data analysis, and simplifying 3D cell culture design, artificial intelligence is revolutionizing this field. When combined, these technologies are improving our ability to conduct research and moving us toward more individualized and effective medical interventions.

Rodent models of dermatological disorders

To assess the possible beneficial effects of drugs and drug candidates, different dermatological disease models are available in rodents. These models are able to mimic one or more characteristic features of the disorders, but not completely recapitulate the pathogenesis of the human skin diseases. Therefore, to improve the technology many new models have been developed both by genetic engineering and by chemical or physical induction. Currently the in vivo rodent models provide the physiologically most relevant approach to produce the pathology related to the majority of dermatological diseases. In this short review some widely used animal techniques (psoriasis, allergic contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, wound healing, melanoma and non-melanoma type skin cancers and UV erythema) are shown which are currently applied in pharmacological, pharmacokinetic, pharmaceutical and dermatological research. First the main points of the human pathomechanism are shown and afterwards the rodent models are briefly discussed. Finally critical evaluation is provided by the authors. However, according to the 3R rule the number of experimental animals is strongly suggested to be reduced, therefore the advanced in vitro and ex vivo techniques become more and more important contrary to in vivo preclinical methods also in dermatological research. As it is described in the outlook section, although the 2D/3D in vitro and skin on-a-chip techniques are promising and have many advantages they are not able to completely substitute the animal models in their vascular, immunological, secretory and neural complexity.

Models for barrier understanding in health and disease in lab-on-a-chips

The maintenance of body homeostasis relies heavily on physiological barriers. Dysfunction of these barriers can lead to various pathological processes, including increased exposure to toxic materials and microorganisms. Various methods exist to investigate barrier function in vivo and in vitro. To investigate barrier function in a highly reproducible manner, ethically, and high throughput, researchers have turned to non-animal techniques and micro-scale technologies. In this comprehensive review, the authors summarize the current applications of organ-on-a-chip microfluidic devices in the study of physiological barriers. The review covers the blood-brain barrier, ocular barriers, dermal barrier, respiratory barriers, intestinal, hepatobiliary, and renal/bladder barriers under both healthy and pathological conditions. The article then briefly presents placental/vaginal, and tumour/multi-organ barriers in organ-on-a-chip devices. Finally, the review discusses Computational Fluid Dynamics in microfluidic systems that integrate biological barriers. This article provides a concise yet informative overview of the current state-of-the-art in barrier studies using microfluidic devices.

Innovative Strategies for Photoallergy Assessment: Breaking Free from Animal Models in Cosmetic Ingredient Development

Photoallergy, a unique form of skin sensitization induced by specific compounds under ultraviolet irradiation, has traditionally been investigated using animals. However, the prohibition of animal testing for the assessment of cosmetic ingredients in Europe and other countries underscores the necessity for in vitro or in silico alternative methods. Currently, there are no validated methods for assessing photoallergy or photosensitization, presenting a significant challenge in the development of new cosmetic ingredients. This review examines the landscape of alternative methods for detecting photosensitization, emphasizing recent publications, and considering the underlying principles of the different proposed assays.

Recreating Human Skin In Vitro: Should the Microbiota Be Taken into Account?

Skin plays crucial roles in the human body: besides protecting the organism from external threats, it acts as a thermal regulator, is responsible for the sense of touch, hosts microbial communities (the skin microbiota) involved in preventing the invasion of foreign pathogens, contains immunocompetent cells that maintain a healthy immunogenic/tolerogenic balance, and is a suitable route for drug administration. In the skin, four defense levels can be identified: besides the physical, chemical, and immune barriers that are inherent to the tissue, the skin microbiota (i.e., the numerous microorganisms living on the skin surface) provides an additional barrier. Studying the skin barrier function or the effects of drugs or cosmetic agents on human skin is a difficult task since snapshot evidence can only be obtained using bioptic samples where dynamic processes cannot properly be followed. To overcome these limitations, many different in vitro models of human skin have been developed that are characterized by diverse levels of complexity in terms of chemical, structural, and cellular composition. The aim of this review is to summarize and discuss the advantages and disadvantages of the different human skin models so far available and to underline how the insertion of a proper microbiota would positively impact an in vitro human skin model in an attempt to better mimic conditions in vivo.

Applications of Engineered Skin Tissue for Cosmetic Component and Toxicology Detection

The scale of the cosmetic market is increasing every day. There are many safety risks to cosmetics, but they benefit people at the same time. The skin can become red, swollen, itchy, chronically toxic, and senescent due to the misuse of cosmetics, triggering skin injuries, with contact dermatitis being the most common. Therefore, there is an urgent need for a system that can scientifically and rationally detect the composition and perform a toxicological assessment of cosmetic products. Traditional detection methods rely on instrumentation and method selection, which are less sensitive and more complex to perform. Engineered skin tissue has emerged with the advent of tissue engineering technology as an emerging bioengineering technology. The ideal engineered skin tissue is the basis for building good in vitro structures and physiological functions in this field. This review introduces the existing cosmetic testing and toxicological evaluation methods, the current development status, and the types and characteristics of engineered skin tissue. The application of engineered skin tissue in the field of cosmetic composition detection and toxicological evaluation, as well as the different types of tissue engineering scaffold materials and three-dimensional (3D) organoid preparation approaches, is highlighted in this review to provide methods and ideas for constructing the next engineered skin tissue for cosmetic raw material component analysis and toxicological evaluation.

Construction of a dual-component hydrogel matrix for 3D biomimetic skin based on photo-crosslinked chondroitin sulfate/collagen

The main challenge in the field of 3D biomimetic skin is to search for a suitable hydrogel matrix with good biocompatibility, appropriate mechanical property and inner porosity that can support the adhesion and proliferation of skin cells. In this study, photocurable chondroitin sulfate methacrylate (CSMA) and collagen methacrylate (CoLMA) synthesized from chondroitin sulfate (CS) and type I collagen I (CoL) in the dermal matrix were used to construct a photo-crosslinked dual-component CSMA-CoLMA hydrogel matrix. Due to the toughening effect of the dual-component, the CSMA-CoLMA hydrogel improved the intrinsic brittleness of the single-component CSMA hydrogel, presented good mechanical tunability. The average storage and elasticity modulus could reach 3.3 KPa and 30.3 KPa, respectively, which were close to those of natural skin. The CSMA-CoLMA hydrogel with a ratio of 8/6 showed suitable porous structure and good biocompatibility, supporting the adhesion and proliferation of skin cells. Furthermore, the expression of characteristic marker proteins was detected in the epidermal and dermal bi-layered models constructed with the hydrogel containing keratinocytes and fibroblasts. These results suggest that the dual-component CSMA-CoLMA hydrogel has promising potential as a matrix to construct 3D biomimetic skin.

The frontline of alternatives to animal testing: novel in vitro skin model application in drug development and evaluation

The FDA Modernization Act 2.0 has brought nonclinical drug evaluation into a new era. In vitro models are widely used and play an important role in modern drug development and evaluation, including early candidate drug screening and preclinical drug efficacy and toxicity assessment. Driven by regulatory steering and facilitated by well-defined physiology, novel in vitro skin models are emerging rapidly, becoming the most advanced area in alternative testing research. The revolutionary technologies bring us many in vitro skin models, either laboratory-developed or commercially available, which were all built to emulate the structure of the natural skin to recapitulate the skin's physiological function and particular skin pathology. During the model development, how to achieve balance among complexity, accessibility, capability, and cost-effectiveness remains the core challenge for researchers. This review attempts to introduce the existing in vitro skin models, align them on different dimensions, such as structural complexity, functional maturity, and screening throughput, and provide an update on their current application in various scenarios within the scope of chemical testing and drug development, including testing in genotoxicity, phototoxicity, skin sensitization, corrosion/irritation. Overall, the review will summarize a general strategy for in vitro skin model to enhance future model invention, application, and translation in drug development and evaluation.

Microfluidic-based skin-on-chip systems for safety assessment of nanomaterials

The skin is the body's largest organ, continuously exposed to and affected by natural and anthropogenic nanomaterials (materials with external and internal dimensions in the nanoscale range). This broad spectrum of insults gives rise to irreversible health effects (from skin corrosion to cancer). Organ-on-chip systems can recapitulate skin physiology with high fidelity and potentially revolutionize the safety assessment of nanomaterials. Here, we review current advances in skin-on-chip models and their potential to elucidate biological mechanisms. Further, strategies are discussed to recapitulate skin physiology on-chip, improving control over nanomaterials exposure and transport across cells. Finally, we highlight future opportunities and challenges from design and fabrication to acceptance by regulatory bodies and industry.

The present state of the cosmetics supply chain in Thailand and the prospective role of Independent Quality Assurance Verifiers (IQAVs) within the supply chain

Within the well-established European cosmetic supply chain, Independent Quality Assurance Verifiers (IQAVs) such as NATRUE and COSMOS have been nurtured, facilitating the growth of robust markets and industries. In contrast, the cosmetics supply chain in Thailand remains enigmatic and insufficiently delineated. This opacity constrains the potential for quality assurance entities to establish and perform their functions. Therefore, the disorganized supply chain and the lack of IQAVs have given rise to unethical practices, truncated product life cycles, and diminished quality within the cosmetics supply chain. To address these concerns, the current study employs a bifurcated approach: 1) examining the extant state of Thailand's cosmetics supply chain, and 2) suggesting strategic positioning for IQAVs to enhance the Thai supply chain. A series of comprehensive interviews were conducted with numerous eminent experts representing various supply chain roles. By scrutinizing stakeholders in the Thai cosmetics supply chain, the research probes the reasoning behind the shortened product life cycles and identifies essential success factors for the improvement and expansion of the industry. The study utilized the IDEF0 framework to assess the supply chain's present condition and then adopted the PESTEL analysis to discern potential strategic roles for IQAVs. In conclusion, the study suggested that Thai authorities either establish their certification standards and processes or cooperate with extant foreign IQAVs to adapt their standards to the local environment. This research contributes to an understanding of the prevailing circumstances and introduces a strategic function for IQAVs in supporting Thailand's aspiration to become ASEAN's beauty hub.

Creation of Chemically Tri-Layered Collagen Crosslinked Membranes and Their Comparison with Ionically Tri-Layered Chitosan Crosslinked Membranes to Study Human Skin Properties

In 2009, a new European regulation came into force that forbade the use of animals in the cosmetics industry. As a result, new alternatives were sought, taking into account the new ethical considerations. The main objective of this article is to continue a line of research that aims to build a physical model of skin from a biomaterial scaffold composed of collagen, chitosan or a combination to investigate whether they offer similar behavior to human skin. Collagen, the major component in the dermis, was crosslinked with glutaraldehyde (GTA) to develop three formulations for studying some properties of the skin through rheological tests like swelling index, elasticity or water loss. In addition, this article makes a comparison with the results obtained in the previous article where the membranes were made of chitosan and tripolyphosphate (TPP). The results obtained highlight that the tri-layered membranes scaffold better than the mono-layered ones to increase the elastic modulus (G') and the permeability. Furthermore, they offer a protective effect against water loss compared to mono-layered membranes. As regards chitosan membranes, these have a higher G' modulus than collagen membranes when the degree of deacetylation (DDA) is 85%. However, collagen membranes are more elastic when the DDA of chitosan is 76%, and their linear viscoelastic limit (LVL) doubles that of chitosan membranes, both for the degree of acetylation of 76 and 85%.

Organ-on-a-chip technologies for biomedical research and drug development: A focus on the vasculature

Current biomedical models fail to replicate the complexity of human biology. Consequently, almost 90% of drug candidates fail during clinical trials after decades of research and billions of investments in drug development. Despite their physiological similarities, animal models often misrepresent human responses, and instead, trigger ethical and societal debates regarding their use. The overall aim across regulatory entities worldwide is to replace, reduce, and refine the use of animal experimentation, a concept known as the Three Rs principle. In response, researchers develop experimental alternatives to improve the biological relevance of in vitro models through interdisciplinary approaches. This article highlights the emerging organ-on-a-chip technologies, also known as microphysiological systems, with a focus on models of the vasculature. The cardiovascular system transports all necessary substances, including drugs, throughout the body while in charge of thermal regulation and communication between other organ systems. In addition, we discuss the benefits, limitations, and challenges in the widespread use of new biomedical models. Coupled with patient-derived induced pluripotent stem cells, organ-on-a-chip technologies are the future of drug discovery, development, and personalized medicine.

Single Plane Illumination Microscopy for Microfluidic Device Imaging

Three-dimensional imaging of live processes at a cellular level is a challenging task. It requires high-speed acquisition capabilities, low phototoxicity, and low mechanical disturbances. Three-dimensional imaging in microfluidic devices poses additional challenges as a deep penetration of the light source is required, along with a stationary setting, so the flows are not perturbed. Different types of fluorescence microscopy techniques have been used to address these limitations; particularly, confocal microscopy and light sheet fluorescence microscopy (LSFM). This manuscript proposes a novel architecture of a type of LSFM, single-plane illumination microscopy (SPIM). This custom-made microscope includes two mirror galvanometers to scan the sample vertically and reduce shadowing artifacts while avoiding unnecessary movement. In addition, two electro-tunable lenses fine-tune the focus position and reduce the scattering caused by the microfluidic devices. The microscope has been fully set up and characterized, achieving a resolution of 1.50 μm in the x-y plane and 7.93 μm in the z-direction. The proposed architecture has risen to the challenges posed when imaging microfluidic devices and live processes, as it can successfully acquire 3D volumetric images together with time-lapse recordings, and it is thus a suitable microscopic technique for live tracking miniaturized tissue and disease models.