Ultraviolet radiation and skin aging: roles of reactive oxygen species, inflammation and protease activation, and strategies for prevention of inflammation-induced matrix degradation - a review

Phytocosmetic potential of Blumea balsamifera oil in mitigating UV-induced photoaging: Evidence from cellular and mouse models

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Blumea balsamifera (L.) DC. (BB), the source of Blumea balsamifera oil (BBO), is an aromatic medicinal plant, renowned for its pharmacological properties and its traditional use in Southeast Asian countries such as China, Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, and the Philippines for centuries. Traditionally, BB has been used as a raw herbal medicine for treating various skin conditions like eczema, dermatitis, athlete's foot, and wound healing for skin injuries.

AIM OF THE STUDY

This research aimed to explore the inhibitory effects of BBO on skin aging using two models: in vitro analysis with human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) under UVB-induced stress, and in vivo studies on UVA-induced dorsal skin aging in mice. The study sought to uncover the mechanisms behind BBO's anti-aging effects, specifically, its impact on cellular and tissue responses to UV-induced skin aging.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We applied doses of 10-20 μL/mL of BBO to HDF cells that had been exposed to UVB radiation to simulate skin aging. We measured cell viability, and levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS), SA-β-gal, pro-inflammatory cytokines, and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). In addition, we investigated the involvement of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) and nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) signaling pathways in mediating the anti-aging effects of BBO. Histopathological and biochemical analyses were conducted in a mouse model to examine the effects of BBO on UV-induced photoaging.

RESULTS

UV exposure accelerated aging, and caused cellular damage and inflammatory responses through ROS-mediated pathways. In HDF cells, BBO treatment countered the UVB-induced senescence, and the recovery of cell viability was correlated to notable reductions in SA-β-gal, ROS, pro-inflammatory cytokines, and MMPs. Mechanistically, the anti-aging effect of BBO was associated with the downregulation of the JNK/NF-κB signaling pathways. In the in vivo mouse model, BBO exhibited protective capabilities against UV-induced photoaging, which were manifested by the enhanced antioxidant enzyme activities and tissue remodeling.

CONCLUSIONS

BBO effectively protects fibroblasts from UV-induced photoaging through the JNK/NF-κB pathway. Recovery from photoaging involves an increase in dermal fibroblasts, alleviation of inflammation, accelerated synthesis of antioxidant enzymes, and slowed degradation of ECM proteins. Overall, BBO enhances the skin's defensive capabilities against oxidative stress, underscoring its potential as a therapeutic agent for oxidative stress-related skin aging.

Protective effect of mixture of Acanthopanax sessiliflorum and Chaenomeles sinensis against ultraviolet B-induced photodamage in human fibroblast and hairless mouse

Skin photoaging, characterized by collagen degradation and upregulation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), is a major concern caused by UVB irradiation. In this study, we investigated the potential of Acanthopanax sessiliflorum extract (ASE) and Chaenomeles sinensis (CSE) extracts to mitigate the effects of UVB-induced photodamage in human fibroblast and hairless mice. Water extracts of AS (ASE) and CS (CSE) were found to inhibit the expression of MMP-1/-3 in vitro. Furthermore, the extract of mixture of AS and CS (ACE) showed more potent inhibitor effect, as compared to ASE and CSE. In UVB-irradiated hairless mice, oral administration of ACE effectively reduced wrinkle formation, skin roughness, and epidermal thickness while promoting the deposition of collagenous fibers. These results indicate that ACE has the potential to protect against skin photoaging by restoring the impaired skin via downregulation of MMP-1/-3 expression and secretion. Our findings highlight the therapeutic potential of ACE in mitigating skin photoaging.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s10068-023-01462-3.

Smoking habits and osteoporosis in community-dwelling men subjected to dual-X-ray absorptiometry: a cross-sectional study

BACKGROUND

Active and Environmental Tobacco Smoke (ETS) are a global cause of death. Osteoporosis (Op) is the most common metabolic bone disorder worldwide, impacting on mortality and disability, with high health and welfare costs. Active smoking is a known risk factor for Op, but there is few information regarding Op and ETS in men.

PURPOSE

The study aim is to evaluate the association between smoking habits and Op in community-dwelling men that have been subjected to Dual-X-ray Absorptiometry and completed a questionnaire about their own and cohabiter's smoking habits.

METHODS

We performed a cross-sectional study based on administrative data. This study is part of the SIMON protocol. The binary logistic regression analysis was used to estimate the role of ETS on the risk of Op, adjusting for age, body mass index (BMI), type 2 diabetes mellitus (T2DM) and eGFR.

RESULTS

Four hundred sixteen men were selected and, based on questionnaire replies, 167 were classified as current smokers (CS), 93 as passive smokers (PS) and 156 as never smokers (NS). NS showed a lower prevalence of past fragility fracture, radiological features of osteoporosis and hypovitaminosis D compared to PS and CS (p < 0.05). NS showed a lower prevalence of Op compared to PS and CS, also after correction for age, BMI, T2DM and eGFR (p < 0.05).

CONCLUSION

The study results demonstrate that PS and CS have a higher risk of Op, fragility fractures and vitamin D deficiency compared to NS.

Role of umbilical cord mesenchymal stromal cells in skin rejuvenation

Aging is the main cause of many degenerative diseases. The skin is the largest and the most intuitive organ that reflects the aging of the body. Under the interaction of endogenous and exogenous factors, there are cumulative changes in the structure, function, and appearance of the skin, which are characterized by decreased synthesis of collagen and elastin, increased wrinkles, relaxation, pigmentation, and other aging characteristics. skin aging is inevitable, but it can be delayed. The successful isolation of mesenchymal stromal cells (MSC) in 1991 has greatly promoted the progress of cell therapy in human diseases. The International Society for Cellular Therapy (ISCT) points out that the MSC is a kind of pluripotent progenitor cells that have self-renewal ability (limited) in vitro and the potential for mesenchymal cell differentiation. This review mainly introduces the role of perinatal umbilical cord-derived MSC(UC-MSC) in the field of skin rejuvenation. An in-depth and systematic understanding of the mechanism of UC-MSCs against skin aging is of great significance for the early realization of the clinical transformation of UC-MSCs. This paper summarized the characteristics of skin aging and summarized the mechanism of UC-MSCs in skin rejuvenation reported in recent years. In order to provide a reference for further research of UC-MSCs to delay skin aging.

Lignin-derived carbon quantum dot/PVA films for totally blocking UV and high-energy blue light

Excessive exposure to UV and high-energy blue light (HEBL) can cause fatal eye and skin injuries. As a result, it is crucial to protect our bodies from UV and HEBL radiation. To achieve complete blocking of UV and HEBL, we developed a lignin-derived carbon quantum dot (L-CQD)/polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) film. L-CQD was synthesized from lignin, a waste woody biomass, and then blended with a PVA matrix to create a flexible L-CQD/PVA film. Thanks to simultaneous UV and HEBL absorption characteristics and bright color of L-CQD, the PVA film with 0.375 wt% L-CQD demonstrated outstanding blocking efficiency: 100 % in UV-C, UV-B, and UV-A, and at least 99.9 % in HEBL. It also exhibited a 44 % increase in lightness and a 12 % enhancement in transparency compared to lignin/PVA film. The film's ability to block UV and HEBL was further demonstrated by reducing >40 % UV-induced ROS formation in both cancerous and normal cell lines (Hs 294T, HeLa, CCD-986sk, and L929), as well as by blocking blue laser diode (LD) and LED. Since the L-CQD/PVA film is simple to produce, environmentally friendly, flexible, and thermally stable, it is suitable for use as a protective coating against sunlight and harmful emissions from IT devices.

Dual intervention on the gut and skin microbiota attenuates facial cutaneous aging

The gut and skin microbiota are microbial barriers, resisting harmful foreign microorganisms and maintaining internal homeostasis. Dysbiosis of the gut and skin microbiota is involved in aging progression. However, interventions targeting facial skin wellness taking into account the gut-skin axis are scarce. In this study, the impact of an eight-week intervention with oral (O), topical (T), and both oral and topical (OT) xylo-oligosaccharides (XOS) by regulating gut and skin microbiota on facial cutaneous aging was investigated in a double-blind placebo-controlled trial in females. An increase in the proportion of participants with skin rejuvenation was observed, along with a significant reduction in facial pores after OT intervention. The reduction of cutaneous Cutibacterium by OT intervention was greater than that in the O and T groups. These interventions can change the skin microbial structure. Intestinal Bifidobacterium was enriched only by dual treatment with oral and topical XOS. Function prediction analysis revealed a decrease in K02770 encoding fructose-1-phosphate kinase involved in de novo lipid synthesis from fructose with dual intervention, suggesting that inhibition of lipophilic Cutibacterium may contribute to reducing facial pores. Overall, the dual XOS intervention approach is most effective for improving both gut and skin microbiota, as well as facial skin aging.

Photochemically Inert Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen by Metal-Phenolic Network Coatings of Titanium Oxide Nanoparticles

Titanium dioxide (TiO2) nanoparticles are extensively used as a sunscreen filter due to their long-active ultraviolet (UV)-blocking performance. However, their practical use is being challenged by high photochemical activities and limited absorption spectrum. Current solutions include the coating of TiO2 with synthetic polymers and formulating a sunscreen product with additional organic UV filters. Unfortunately, these approaches are no longer considered effective because of recent environmental and public health issues. Herein, TiO2-metal-phenolic network hybrid nanoparticles (TiO2-MPN NPs) are developed as the sole active ingredient for sunscreen products through photochemical suppression and absorption spectrum widening. The MPNs are generated by the complexation of tannic acid with multivalent metal ions, forming a robust coating shell. The TiO2-MPN hybridization extends the absorption region to the high-energy-visible (HEV) light range via a new ligand-to-metal charge transfer photoexcitation pathway, boosting both the sun protection factor and ultraviolet-A protection factor about 4-fold. The TiO2-MPN NPs suppressed the photoinduced reactive oxygen species by 99.9% for 6 h under simulated solar irradiation. Accordingly, they substantially alleviated UV- and HEV-induced cytotoxicity of fibroblasts. This work outlines a new tactic for the eco-friendly and biocompatible design of sunscreen agents by selectively inhibiting the photocatalytic activities of semiconductor nanoparticles while broadening their optical spectrum.

Development of nano-liposomal human growth hormone as a topical formulation for preventing uvb-induced skin damage

Due to its involvement in skin maintenance and repair, topical administration of recombinant human growth hormone (rhGH) is an interesting strategy for therapeutic purposes. We have formulated and characterized a topical rhGH-loaded liposomal formulation (rhGH-Lip) and evaluated its safety, biological activity, and preventive role against UVB-induced skin damage. The rhGH-Lip had an average size and zeta potential of 63 nm and -33 mV, respectively, with 70 % encapsulation efficiency. The formulation was stable at 4 °C for at least one year. The SDS-PAGE and circular dichroism results showed no structural alterations in rhGH upon encapsulation. In vitro, studies in HaCaT, HFFF-2, and Ba/F3-rhGHR cell lines confirmed the safety and biological activity of rhGH-Lip. Franz diffusion cell study showed increased rhGH skin permeation compared to free rhGH. Animal studies in nude mice showed that liposomal rhGH prevented UVB-induced epidermal hyperplasia, angiogenesis, wrinkle formation, and collagen loss, as well as improving skin moisture. The results of this study show that rhGH-Lip is a stable, safe, and effective skin delivery system and has potential as an anti-wrinkle formulation for topical application. This study also provides a new method for the topical delivery of proteins and merits further investigation.

A study of anti-wrinkle functions and improvement of cream with Phaseolus angularis

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight accelerates skin ageing, which is followed by harsh, thick, dry and loose conditions. One of the most demonstrative symptoms is deep wrinkles induced by skin barrier disruption. Our previous research showed that Phaseolus angularis seed extract (PASE) effectively inhibits skin ageing through UVB protection in HaCaT cells by suppressing skin damage. However, its efficacy has not been evaluated in clinical trials so far. PASE cream's effectiveness was initially tested on the artificial skin model, revealing an increase in filaggrin and defence against skin damage. Based on these results, in this single-centred, randomized, double-blind study, we investigated the anti-ageing effect of PASE in human eye wrinkle areas. For these 21 healthy adult women aged 30 to 59, a PASE cream was applied to the right eye wrinkle area and a placebo to the left eye wrinkle area twice a day (morning and evening) for 12 weeks. The change in thick, deep crease wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed by visual evaluation, skin measurements and a questionnaire. As a result, the surface roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), average roughness (R3), smoothness depth (R4) and arithmetic mean roughness (R5) values in the group using the PASE cream all decreased. Particularly, R1, R4 and R5 significantly decreased by 18.1%, 18.6% and 25.0%, respectively. Subjects who applied PASE cream also experienced an improvement in skin moisture nearly twice the time compared to the placebo group. In addition, no participants reported side effects. Our study showed that PASE cream led to clinically significant levels of wrinkle improvement. In conclusion, as PASE is a natural, safe food with no side effects, it can be a good resource for natural anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics in the future.

Bioactive Compounds and Potential Health Benefits through Cosmetic Applications of Cherry Stem Extract

Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

Effects of collagen hydrolysates on UV-induced photoaging mice: Gly-Pro-Hyp as a potent anti-photoaging peptide

This work aimed to investigate the protective effects of collagen hydrolysates containing different contents of Gly-Pro-Xaa tripeptides on UV-induced photoaging mice and to identify potent anti-photoaging peptides. Results showed that oral ingestion of collagen hydrolysates with a higher content of Gly-Pro-Xaa tripeptides (∼11.4%, HCH) dramatically enhanced the absorption of Pro-Hyp, Hyp-Gly, and Gly-Pro-Hyp into the body, which were 1.77-, 2.18-, and 65.07-fold higher in area under the concentration-time curve (AUC) values than that of collagen hydrolysates with a lower content of Gly-Pro-Xaa tripeptides (∼3.8%, LCH), respectively. Furthermore, the protective effects of HCH on the photo-aged skin of mice were significantly stronger than those of LCH in terms of increases in the contents of hyaluronic acid and collagen, improvement in skin elasticity and epidermal thickness, alleviation in inflammation, and decreases in the contents of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and MMP-3. More importantly, Gly-Pro-Hyp displayed potent anti-photoaging activities comparable to HCH based on an equivalent amount of Hyp. Network pharmacology analysis for potential mechanisms further indicated that Gly-Pro-Hyp might interact with JUN and FOS and regulate IL-17 and TNF signaling pathways. Collectively, our results suggested that HCH had great potential to be applied in functional foods for skin health and Gly-Pro-Hyp was found to be a potent collagen-derived anti-photoaging peptide, which might contribute to the excellent anti-photoaging effects of HCH.

Impacts of projected changes in sea surface temperature on ozone pollution in China toward carbon neutrality

The global sea surface temperatures (SSTs) are expected to change diversely in the future under different climate scenarios, which will affect the near-surface ozone (O3) distribution and concentration by influencing meteorological states and large-scale atmospheric circulation. Many countries have planned to reach carbon neutrality by the mid-21st century. In this study, the impacts of global and regional SST changes on near-surface O3 concentrations in China in the middle of the 21st century under the carbon-neutral scenario (Shared Socioeconomic Pathway 1-1.9), compared with the high-emission scenario (Shared Socioeconomic Pathway 5-8.5), and possible physical and chemical mechanisms are investigated using the Community Earth System Model version 1 (CESM1). Under future climate change, the changes in SSTs in the carbon-neutral scenario relative to the high-emission scenario lead to a dipole change in near-surface O3 concentrations in eastern and western China, with a significant decrease of 0.79 ppbv in the eastern China and a significant increase of 1.05 ppbv in the western China. The cooling of North Pacific Ocean under the carbon-neutral scenario causes a decrease in near-surface O3 concentrations by 0.48 ppbv in eastern China due to the weakened chemical production and an increase by 0.74 ppbv in western China attributed to the enhanced O3 transport from Eurasia. Cooling of Southern Hemisphere oceans leads to anomalous upward air motions over eastern China, which weaken the vertical transport of high-elevation O3 to the surface, resulting in a reduction in near-surface O3 concentrations by 0.58 ppbv in eastern China. Our results suggest that future changes in SSTs in the carbon-neutral scenario will positively benefit O3 air quality improvement in the polluted eastern China, with the North Pacific and Southern Hemisphere oceans playing important roles.

Integrative analysis of RNA-sequencing and microarray for the identification of adverse effects of UVB exposure on human skin

Background

Ultraviolet B (UVB) from sunlight represents a major environmental factor that causes toxic effects resulting in structural and functional cutaneous abnormalities in most living organisms. Although numerous studies have indicated the biological mechanisms linking UVB exposure and cutaneous manifestations, they have typically originated from a single study performed under limited conditions.

Methods

We accessed all publicly accessible expression data of various skin cell types exposed to UVB, including skin biopsies, keratinocytes, and fibroblasts. We performed biological network analysis to identify the molecular mechanisms and identify genetic biomarkers.

Results

We interpreted the inflammatory response and carcinogenesis as major UVB-induced signaling alternations and identified three candidate biomarkers (IL1B, CCL2, and LIF). Moreover, we confirmed that these three biomarkers contribute to the survival probability of patients with cutaneous melanoma, the most aggressive and lethal form of skin cancer.

Conclusion

Our findings will aid the understanding of UVB-induced cutaneous toxicity and the accompanying molecular mechanisms. In addition, the three candidate biomarkers that change molecular signals due to UVB exposure of skin might be related to the survival rate of patients with cutaneous melanoma.

Actinidia polygama Water Extract (APWE) Protects Against UVB-Induced Photoaging via MAPK/AP-1 and TGFβ-Smad Pathway

BACKGROUND

Actinidia polygama (silver vine) has been used in oriental medicine to treat gout, rheumatoid arthritis, and inflammation. Actinidia polygama water extract (APWE) is named PB203.

OBJECTIVE

To investigate whether PB203 has anti-photoaging effects and to understand the molecular mechanism underlying such effects.

METHODS

The antioxidant effect was assessed by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl assay and 2',7'-dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate staining in ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated HaCaT cells with or without PB203 treatment. Type I collagen, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase (TIMP-1), hyaluronic acid (HA), hyaluronan synthase 1 (HAS1) and HAS2 levels were measuring by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay or reverse transcription quantitative polymerase chain reaction. Also, we investigate the effects of PB203 on wrinkle formation, and the potential mechanisms underlying such effects were investigated in UVB-induced wrinkle mouse model mice.

RESULTS

PB203 alleviated the UVB-induced reactive oxygen species production, phosphorylation of JNK, ERK, and p38, and formation of AP-1. In addition, PB203 inhibited the decreases in type I collagen and TIMP-1 levels, and the increase in MMP-1 levels in UVB-exposed HaCaT cells. In UVB-induced wrinkle mouse model, PB203 inhibited the decreases in elastin and type I collagen levels as well as the increases in MMP-1 expression, wrinkle formation, and skin dehydration. Furthermore, PB203 increased the expression of filaggrin, HAS1, and HAS2, improving the skin barrier function.

CONCLUSION

Taken together, we found that PB203 is as a potent candidate to serve as a functional ingredient or therapeutic agent to improve UVB-mediated skin aging.

Advancements in non-invasive skin sampling: Clinical conditions characterization via the assessment of skin surface cytokine biomarkers

The skin is increasingly recognized as a biological active organ interacting with the immune system. Given that the epidermal skin layer actively releases various cytokines, non-invasive skin sampling methods could detect these cytokines, offering insights into clinical conditions. This study aims non-invasively measuring cytokine levels directly from the skin surface to characterize different inflammatory chronic disorders in the adult and elderly population: psoriasis, diabetes type 2, rosacea, chronic kidney disease (CKD) and aging. Cytokines IL-1β, IL-8 and IL-10 were sampled from healthy subjects and patients aged 18-80 using skin surface wash technique. A well with sterile phosphate-buffered saline solution was placed on the skin for 30 min, and the extracted solution was collected from the well for further cytokine levels analysis using ELISA assay. Results show distinct cytokine profiles in different pathological processes, healthy controls, affected and unaffected areas. Aging was associated with increased IL-1β, IL-8, and IL-10 levels in skin. In diabetes, IL-1β and IL-8 levels were elevated in lesional areas, while IL-10 levels were decreased in non-lesional skin. Psoriatic lesions showed elevated levels of IL-1β and IL-8. Rosacea patients had lower IL-10 levels in both lesional and non-lesional areas. CKD patients exhibited significantly lower IL-10 levels compared to healthy individuals. In conclusion, skin surface wash-derived cytokine profiles could serve as "alert biomarkers" for disease prediction, enabling early detection. Additionally, this method's cost-effectiveness allows pre-screening of molecules in clinical studies and holds potential as a tool for biomarkers and omics analysis, enhancing disorder characterization and disease management.

Efficacy of ceramide-containing sunscreen on skin barrier

BACKGROUND

UV rays not only cause oxidative damage to the skin, but also damage its barrier function. The use of sunscreen is crucial in preventing skin from UV radiation, but it may have an impact on the function of the skin barrier. While much research has focused on the protective effects of sunscreen against UV oxidative damage, little is known about the impact of daily sunscreen use on the skin barrier.

OBJECTIVE

This study mainly investigated the changes in skin barrier function of volunteers (including those with sensitive skin) before and after using a ceramide-containing sunscreen.

METHODS

A total of 60 volunteers used SPF30 sunscreen containing ceramide every morning. Using non-invasive methods to detect skin barrier changes in TEWL, hydration, facial redness based on VISIA-CR image, and Erythema index (EI) value after 4 weeks of using ceramide-containing sunscreen. Adverse reactions were also assessed.

RESULTS

After 4 weeks of using ceramide-containing sunscreen, significant reductions were observed in skin redness with both an 11.89% decrease in a* value and a 5.68% decrease in skin EI, while there was also a significant decrease in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) with a reduction of 22.96%, and a significant increase in skin hydration with a 21.96% increase in the moisture content of the stratum corneum. No adverse events occurred during the entire testing process.

CONCLUSION

Daily application of ceramide-containing sunscreen can increase skin hydration while enhancing the function of the skin barrier.

Hyaluronic acid/polyphenol sunscreens with broad-spectrum UV protection properties from tannic acid and quercetin

Currently, commercial sunscreens cause a number of biotoxicity and environmental issues, making it imperative to develop biocompatible alternatives. In this study, we aimed to develop an alternative sunscreen from two ecofriendly and biocompatible natural polyphenolic compounds, tannic acid (TA) and quercetin (Que). The sunscreen was prepared through a simple process using an oil-in-water emulsion as the medium and hyaluronic acid (HA) as the base polymer to improve biocompatibility. The HA/TA/Que. sunscreen prepared in this study exhibits 0 % transmittance in the UVB region and <15 % transmittance in the UVA region, resulting in excellent sun-protection properties (SPF 30). Remarkably, the as-prepared HA/TA/Que. sunscreen has a suitable viscosity and similar UV protection properties to those of commercial sunscreens. The HA/TA/Que. sunscreen also exhibits 90.4 % antioxidant activity against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl, demonstrating an ability to effectively capture reactive oxygen species that directly affect the skin. In addition, the cell viability was >90 % at a concentration of 50 μg/mL after 7 days, indicating excellent cytocompatibility. Owing to its various advantageous features, the HA/TA/Que. sunscreen with excellent sun protection properties and multiple functionalities is expected to resolve many environmental and biological issues caused by commercial sunscreens.

Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and photoprotective activity of standardised Gaultheria procumbens L. leaf, stem, and fruit extracts in UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Gaultheria procumbens L. is a polyphenolic-rich medicinal and food plant. Its leaves, stems, and fruits are traditional anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, antioxidant, and antimicrobial herbal medicines used to treat internal and external inflammation-related ailments, including rheumatic diseases, influenza, the common cold, fever, and skin and periodontal problems. Moreover, G. procumbens leaf extract is used for skin care as an anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle ingredient.

AIM OF THE STUDY

Various environmental factors, especially solar ultraviolet radiation, accelerate skin ageing by promoting oxidative stress and inflammation. Despite the dermoprotective and anti-ageing applications, the impact of G. procumbens on human dermal fibroblasts is unknown. Therefore, the study aimed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and photoprotective activity of G. procumbens standardised leaf, stem, and fruit extracts in cellular models, including human dermal fibroblasts (Hs68 cells) under UVA-irradiation, the primary pro-ageing skin stressor.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Hs68 fibroblasts were pre-treated (24h) with G. procumbens extracts (0.5-100 μg/mL) or reference compounds followed by UVA-irradiation (8 J/cm2). Cell viability and metabolic activity were measured by CCK-8 and MTT assays in human Hs68 and mouse L929 fibroblasts, respectively. The ROS level, SOD, and GST activities were estimated by fluorescence and spectrophotometric techniques. The pro-inflammatory potential (NF-κB transcription factor activation) was checked using THP1-Blue™ NF-κB cells, and the anti-inflammatory activity was studied by measuring IL-8, ICAM-1, and NF-κB levels and phosphorylation of Erk kinase in LPS-stimulated Hs68 cells by spectrophotometry and confocal microscopy. The UVA-induced DNA damage and cell migration were evaluated by comet and scratch assays, respectively.

RESULTS

The extracts did not affect the metabolic activity of mouse L929 fibroblasts and the viability of unirradiated human Hs68 cells. Additionally, the extracts noticeably enhanced the viability of UVA-irradiated Hs68 cells up to 115-120% (p < 0.001) for stem and leaf extract at 25 μg/mL. All extracts in a wide concentration range (0.5-100 μg/mL) did not activate monocytes or induce the NF-κB transcription factor in LPS-stimulated Hs68 fibroblasts. On the other hand, the extracts (5-25 μg/mL) restored the activity of endogenous antioxidant enzymes, i.e., SOD and GST, up to 120-140% (p < 0.001) in the UVA-irradiated Hs68 cells. Moreover, a statistically significant reduction of ROS, IL-8, ICAM-1, and NF-κB levels by up to 48%, 88%, 43%, and 39%, respectively (p < 0.001) and strong suppression of Erk kinase activation was observed for the extracts (25-50 μg/mL) in LPS-stimulated human fibroblasts. The total DNA damage (% tail DNA) in irradiated Hs68 cells was also strongly decreased by up to 66-69% (p < 0.001) at 50 μg/mL. However, the treatment with the extracts did not relevantly enhance the cell migration of Hs68 fibroblasts.

CONCLUSIONS

The results suggest that G. procumbens may effectively protect human skin fibroblast from UVA irradiation. The leaf and stem extracts were the most potent antioxidants, while fruit and stem extracts revealed the strongest anti-inflammatory activity. The observed effects support the traditional use of aerial plant parts (leaves, stems, and fruits) in treating inflammation-related skin disorders cross-linked with oxidative stress and the topical application of Gaultheria extracts as anti-ageing agents intended for skin care.

Modeling of solar UV-induced photodamage on the hair follicles in human skin organoids

Solar ultraviolet (sUV) exposure is known to cause skin damage. However, the pathological mechanisms of sUV on hair follicles have not been extensively explored. Here, we established a model of sUV-exposed skin and its appendages using human induced pluripotent stem cell-derived skin organoids with planar morphology containing hair follicles. Our model closely recapitulated several symptoms of photodamage, including skin barrier disruption, extracellular matrix degradation, and inflammatory response. Specifically, sUV induced structural damage and catagenic transition in hair follicles. As a potential therapeutic agent for hair follicles, we applied exosomes isolated from human umbilical cord blood-derived mesenchymal stem cells to sUV-exposed organoids. As a result, exosomes effectively alleviated inflammatory responses by inhibiting NF-κB activation, thereby suppressing structural damage and promoting hair follicle regeneration. Ultimately, our model provided a valuable platform to mimic skin diseases, particularly those involving hair follicles, and to evaluate the efficacy and underlying mechanisms of potential therapeutics.

Fisetin Inhibits UVA-Induced Expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 through the NOX/ROS/MAPK Pathway in Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Human Epidermal Keratinocytes

Fisetin is a flavonoid found in plants and has been reported to be effective in various human diseases. However, the effective mechanisms of ultraviolet-A (UVA)-mediated skin damage are not yet clear. In this study, we investigated the protective mechanisms of fisetin regarding UVA-induced human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKs) damages. Fisetin showed a cytoprotective effect against UVA irradiation and suppressed matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), MMP-1, and MMP-3 expression. In addition, fisetin was rescued, which decreased mRNA levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines, reactive oxygen species production, and the downregulation of MAPK/AP-1 related protein and NADPH oxidase (NOX) mRNA levels. Furthermore, UVA-induced MMP-1 and MMP-3 were effectively inhibited by siRNAs to NOX 1 to 5 in HDFs and HEKs. These results indicate that fisetin suppresses UVA-induced damage through the NOX/ROS/MAPK pathway in HDFs and HEKs.

Unripe Pear Extract Suppresses UVB-Induced Skin Photoaging in Hairless Mice and Keratinocytes

Our study aimed to investigate whether unripe pear extract (UP) could provide protection against UVB-induced damage to both mouse skin and keratinocytes. We observed that UVB exposure, a common contributor to skin photoaging, led to wrinkle formation, skin dryness, and inflammation in mice. Nevertheless, these effects were mitigated in the groups of UVB-irradiated mice treated with UP. Moreover, UP treatment at 400 μg/mL increased the antioxidant enzyme activities (sodium dodecyl sulfate, 2.22-fold higher; catalase, 2.91-fold higher; GPx, 1.96-fold higher) along with sphingomyelin (1.58-fold higher) and hyaluronic acid (1.31-fold higher) levels in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. In the keratinocytes irradiated with UVB, UP 400 μg/mL resulted in reduced cytokine production (TNF-α, 33.2%; IL-1β, 45.3%; IL-6, 33.4%) and the expression of inflammatory pathway-related proteins. The findings indicate that UP has a direct protective effect on UVB-irradiated keratinocytes and is also able to shield against photoaging induced by UVB. Hence, it is suggested that UP could contribute to improved skin health by averting skin photoaging.

Effect of L-4-Thiazolylalanine (Protinol™) on skin barrier strength and skin protection

OBJECTIVES

Skin barrier properties are critical for maintaining epidermal water content, protecting from environmental factors and providing the first line of defense against pathogens. In this study, we investigated the non-proteinogenic amino acid L-4-Thiazolylalanine (L4) as a potential active ingredient in skin protection and barrier strength.

METHODS

L4 on wound healing, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties were evaluated using monolayers and 3D skin equivalents. The transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) value was used in vitro as a strong indicator of barrier strength and integrity. Clinical L4 efficacy was assessed for the evaluation of the skin barrier integrity and soothing benefits.

RESULTS

In vitro treatments of L4 show beneficial effects in wound closure mechanism, and we demonstrate that L4 anti-oxidant benefits with markedly increased HSP70 and decreased reactive oxygen species production induced by UVs exposure. Barrier strength and integrity were significantly improved by L4, confirmed clinically by an increase in 12R-lipoxygenase enzymatic activity in the stratum corneum. In addition, soothing benefits of L4 have been shown clinically with the decrease in redness after methyl nicotinate application on the inner arm and the significant reduction of the erythema and the skin desquamation on the scalp.

CONCLUSION

L4 delivered multiple skin benefits by strengthening the skin barrier, accelerating the skin repair process as well as soothing the skin and the scalp with anti-inflammaging effects. The observed efficacy validates L4 as a desirable skincare ingredient for topical treatment.

Comparative Study of Essential Oils from Different Organs of Syzygium cumini (Pamposia) Based on GC/MS Chemical Profiling and In Vitro Antiaging Activity

Syzygium cumini L. is an evergreen tree belonging to family Myrtaceae, employed for different traditional uses like diabetes, inflammation, and fever. The current study aimed to compare the chemical compositions of the essential oils (EOs) isolated from different organs of Syzygium cumini (leaves (Scl), fruits (Scf), seeds (Scs), and bark (Scb)) using a GC/MS analysis. Also, a chemometric analysis was applied to explore the main similarities and differences among different organs using a Principal Component Analysis (PCA) and a hierarchal cluster analysis (HCA). Furthermore, in vitro antiaging activities were investigated via anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase assays. The GC-MS analysis revealed 82 compounds representing 92.13%, 99.42%, 100%, and 92.97% in Scl, Scf, Scs, and Scb, respectively. The predominant components were α-pinene, β-pinene, (E)-β-caryophyllene, α-caryophyllene, caryophyllene oxide, and α-humulene epoxide II with variable percentages. All EOs were positioned on positive PC1, except for Scs, which was positioned on the negative side in a separate quadrant. The HCA dendrogram displayed the closeness of Scl and Scb, which was not clearly recognized in the PCA score plot. Moreover, the Scs oils were totally discriminated from other parts. The Scl and Scs oils showed superior anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activities. Thus, S. cumini oils should be considered for cosmetic preparations to retard skin aging manifestations.

Anti-Wrinkling Effect of 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic Acid from the Roots of Nymphoides peltata through MAPK/AP-1, NF-κB, and Nrf2 Signaling in UVB-Irradiated HaCaT Cells

Nymphoides peltata has been widely used pharmacologically in traditional Chinese medicine to treat heat strangury and polyuria. The aim of this study was to isolate the bioactive components from N. peltata and evaluate their potential use as antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agents. Phytochemical investigation of the methanolic extract of N. peltata roots led to the isolation of 15 compounds (1-15), which were structurally determined as α-spinasterol (1), 3-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-oleanolic acid 28-O-β-D-glucuronopyranoside (2), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (3), protocatechuic acid (4), vanillic acid (5), p-coumaric acid (6), caffeic acid (7), ferulic acid (8), neochlorogenic acid (neo-CQA) (9), chlorogenic acid (CQA) (10), cryptochlorogenic acid (crypto-CQA) (11), isochlorogenic acid B (3,4-DCQA) (12), isochlorogenic acid A (3,5-DCQA) (13), isochlorogenic acid C (4,5-DCQA) (14), and 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic acid (TCQA) (15). Of these 15 compounds, compound 2 was a new oleanane saponin, the chemical structure of which was characterized by 1D and 2D nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopic data and high-resolution electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (HRESIMS), as well as chemical reaction. Biological evaluation of the isolated compounds revealed that 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic acid (TCQA) significantly improved Nrf2 levels in an Nrf2-ARE reporter HaCaT cell screening assay. TCQA was found to potently inhibit the Nrf2/HO-1 pathway and to possess strong anti-wrinkle activity by modulating the MAPK/NF-κB/AP-1 signaling pathway and thus inhibiting MMP-1 synthesis in HaCaT cells exposed to UVB. Our results suggest that TCQA isolated from N. peltata might be useful for developing effective antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agents.

Epithelial Transport in Disease: An Overview of Pathophysiology and Treatment

Epithelial transport is a multifaceted process crucial for maintaining normal physiological functions in the human body. This comprehensive review delves into the pathophysiological mechanisms underlying epithelial transport and its significance in disease pathogenesis. Beginning with an introduction to epithelial transport, it covers various forms, including ion, water, and nutrient transfer, followed by an exploration of the processes governing ion transport and hormonal regulation. The review then addresses genetic disorders, like cystic fibrosis and Bartter syndrome, that affect epithelial transport. Furthermore, it investigates the involvement of epithelial transport in the pathophysiology of conditions such as diarrhea, hypertension, and edema. Finally, the review analyzes the impact of renal disease on epithelial transport and highlights the potential for future research to uncover novel therapeutic interventions for conditions like cystic fibrosis, hypertension, and renal failure.

Influence of High-Temperature and Intense Light on the Enzymatic Antioxidant System in Ginger (Zingiber officinale Roscoe) Plantlets

Environmental stressors such as high temperature and intense light have been shown to have negative effects on plant growth and productivity. To survive in such conditions, plants activate several stress response mechanisms. The synergistic effect of high-temperature and intense light stress has a significant impact on ginger, leading to reduced ginger production. Nevertheless, how ginger responds to this type of stress is not yet fully understood. In this study, we examined the phenotypic changes, malonaldehyde (MDA) content, and the response of four vital enzymes (superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), lipoxygenase (LOX), and nitrate reductase (NR)) in ginger plants subjected to high-temperature and intense light stress. The findings of this study indicate that ginger is vulnerable to high temperature and intense light stress. This is evident from the noticeable curling, yellowing, and wilting of ginger leaves, as well as a decrease in chlorophyll index and an increase in MDA content. Our investigation confirms that ginger plants activate multiple stress response pathways, including the SOD and CAT antioxidant defenses, and adjust their response over time by switching to different pathways. Additionally, we observe that the expression levels of genes involved in different stress response pathways, such as SOD, CAT, LOX, and NR, are differently regulated under stress conditions. These findings offer avenues to explore the stress mechanisms of ginger in response to high temperature and intense light. They also provide interesting information for the choice of genetic material to use in breeding programs for obtaining ginger genotypes capable of withstanding high temperatures and intense light stress.

Rg3-loaded P407/CS/HA hydrogel inhibits UVB-induced oxidative stress, inflammation and apoptosis in HaCaT cells

UVB radiation can damage human skin, whereas Ginsenoside Rg3, the active ingredient in red ginseng that is processed from ginseng (Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer), could inhibit UVB induced cell damage through anti-oxidation. Meanwhile, P407/CS/HA hydrogel has significant biomedical applications as carriers of drugs. However, the beneficial effects of Rg3-loaded hydrogel (Rg3-Gel) on human HaCaT keratinocytes induced by UVB have rarely been reported. In our study, Rg3 was loaded into hydrogel and the effect of Rg3-Gel against UVB‑induced Hacat cells damages was determined by measuring its ability to alleviate UVB‑induced elevation of oxidative stress, pro-inflammatory and apoptotic response. We found that the treatment with Rg3-Gel inhibited the generation of intracellular ROS and MDA and upregulated the expression of antioxidant enzymes SOD and GSH-Px which were inhibited by UVB exposure. Increased levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines TNF‑α, COX‑2, iNOS and IL‑1β following UVB irradiation were suppressed by the introduction of Rg3-Gel. Additionally, the level of Bcl-2 was decreased and the expression of Bax and Caspase3 were enhanced by Rg3-Gel treatment. In conclusion, Rg3-Gel equipped with the synergistic effect of Rg3 and hydrogel has an effective inhibitory effect on UVB-induced oxidative stress, inflammatory and apoptosis.

Dendrobium nobile Lindl Polysaccharides Attenuate UVB-induced Photodamage by Regulating Oxidative Stress, Inflammation and MMPs Expression in Mice Model

Acute ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation predominantly leads to various skin disorders caused by photodamage. The major causes of UVB-induced photodamage include oxidative stress, inflammatory infiltration and collagen degradation. The aim of the study was to elucidate whether DNP had protective effect on the skin of KM mice when exposed to UVB irradiation. The DNP protective properties to skin appearance and histopathological alterations in KM mice were evaluated by hematoxylin-eosin staining, toluidine blue staining, Gomori staining and Masson's trichrome staining and mast cell staining. In this study, DNP pretreatment promoted the activities of antioxidant enzymes, including superoxide dismutase, catalase and glutathione peroxidase, while decreased malondialdehyde level in UVB-irradiated skin, along with downregulation of proteins expression of matrix metalloproteinases and reduction in the level of the proinflammatory cytokines. Based on these findings, we demonstrated that DNP displayed strong ameliorative effects on UVB-induced acute photodamage for the first time, indicating that it would be a promoting ingredient candidate that could be used in antiphotodamage.

Krill Oil's Protective Benefits against Ultraviolet B-Induced Skin Photoaging in Hairless Mice and In Vitro Experiments

Krill oil (KO) shows promise as a natural marine-derived ingredient for improving skin health. This study investigated its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, and moisturizing effects on skin cells and UVB-induced skin photoaging in hairless mice. In vitro assays on HDF, HaCaT, and B16/F10 cells, as well as in vivo experiments on 60 hairless mice were conducted. A cell viability assay, diphenyl-1-picryhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity test, elastase inhibition assay, procollagen content test, MMP-1 inhibition test, and hyaluronan production assay were used to experiment on in vitro cell models. Mice received oral KO administration (100, 200, or 400 mg/kg) once a day for 15 weeks and UVB radiation three times a week. L-Ascorbic acid (L-AA) was orally administered at 100 mg/kg once daily for 15 weeks, starting from the initial ultraviolet B (UVB) exposures. L-AA administration followed each UVB session (0.18 J/cm2) after one hour. In vitro, KO significantly countered UVB-induced oxidative stress, reduced wrinkles, and prevented skin water loss by enhancing collagen and hyaluronic synthesis. In vivo, all KO dosages showed dose-dependent inhibition of oxidative stress-induced inflammatory photoaging-related skin changes. Skin mRNA expressions for hyaluronan synthesis and collagen synthesis genes also increased dose-dependently after KO treatment. Histopathological analysis confirmed that krill oil (KO) ameliorated the damage caused by UVB-irradiated skin tissues. The results imply that KO could potentially act as a positive measure in diminishing UVB-triggered skin photoaging and address various skin issues like wrinkles and moisturization when taken as a dietary supplement.

The Radical Scavenging Activities and Anti-Wrinkle Effects of Soymilk Fractions Fermented with Lacticaseibacillus paracasei MK1 and Their Derived Peptides

Soybean-derived peptides exert several beneficial effects in various experimental models. However, only a few studies have focused on the radical scavenging and anti-wrinkle effects of soymilk-derived peptides produced via different processes, such as fermentation, enzymatic treatment, and ultrafiltration. Therefore, in this study, we investigated the radical scavenging and antiwrinkle effects of soymilk fractions produced using these processes. We found that 50SFMKUF5, a 5 kDa ultrafiltration fraction fermented with Lacticaseibacillus paracasei MK1 after flavourzyme treatment, exhibited the highest radical scavenging activity using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical scavenging assay as well as potent anti-wrinkle effects assessed by type 1 procollagen production and tumor necrosis factor-α production in ultraviolet B (UVB)-treated human dermal fibroblasts and HaCaT keratinocytes. To identify potential bioactive peptides, candidate peptides were synthesized, and their anti-wrinkle effects were assessed. APEFLKEAFGVN (APE), palmitoyl-APE, and QIVTVEGGLSVISPK peptides were synthesized and used to treat UVB-irradiated fibroblasts, HaCaT keratinocytes, and α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced B16F1 melanoma cells. Among these peptides, Pal-APE exerted the strongest effect. Our results highlight the potential of soymilk peptides as anti-aging substances.

Antioxidant Effects of Catechins (EGCG), Andrographolide, and Curcuminoids Compounds for Skin Protection, Cosmetics, and Dermatological Uses: An Update

Here we have chosen to highlight the main natural molecules extracted from Camellia sinensis, Andrographis paniculata, and Curcuma longa that may possess antioxidant activities of interest for skin protection. The molecules involved in the antioxidant process are, respectively, catechins derivatives, in particular, EGCG, andrographolide, and its derivatives, as well as various curcuminoids. These plants are generally used as beverages for Camellia sinensis (tea tree), as dietary supplements, or as spices. The molecules they contain are known for their diverse therapeutic activities, including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-cancer, antidiabetic, and dermatological treatment. Their common antioxidant activities and therapeutic applications are widely documented, but their use in cosmetics is more recent. We will see that the use of pharmacomodulated derivatives, the addition of co-antioxidants, and the use of various formulations enable better skin penetration and greater ingredient stability. In this review, we will endeavor to compile the cosmetic uses of these natural molecules of interest and the various structural modulations reported with the aim of improving their bioavailability as well as establishing their different mechanisms of action.

Protective effect of Schizonepeta tenuifolia Briq. ethanolic extract against UVB-induced skin aging and photodamage in hairless mice

The purpose of this study was to illuminate the mechanism by which Schizonepeta tenuifolia Briq. (ST) ethanolic extract prevents skin photoaging in HR-1 hairless mice (HR-1). The ST ethanolic extract alleviated wrinkle formation, epidermal skin thickness, and collagen degradation in skin tissues of ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated HR-1 mice. Expression of matrix metalloproteinases (a wrinkle-related marker) was reduced, and tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase 1 expression was upregulated following application of ST ethanolic extract. Furthermore, skin dehydration and levels of hyaluronidase-1 and -2 (enzymes that break hyaluronic acid) were decreased. Moreover, protein expression of hyaluronan synthases (markers of skin hydration) and hyaluronic acid levels increased following ST ethanolic extract treatment in UVB-induced photoaging HR-1 mice. In addition, the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs), including p38, extracellular signal-regulated kinase, and Jun N-terminal kinase was suppressed, and expression of nuclear factor-kappa was reduced. Treatment with ST ethanolic extract also reduced advanced glycation end product (AGE) accumulation and expression of the receptor for AGE (RAGE) in skin tissue. These results suggest that ST ethanolic extract moderates skin damage caused by UVB irradiation via regulating the expression of wrinkle- and hydration-related proteins, MAPKs, and RAGE.

Acetyl Zingerone: A Photostable Multifunctional Skincare Ingredient That Combats Features of Intrinsic and Extrinsic Skin Aging

The cumulative damage skin sustains from exposure to environmental stressors throughout life exerts significant effects on skin aging and cancer development. One of the main ways by which environmental stressors mediate their effects within skin is through induction of reactive oxygen species (ROS). In this review, we chronicle the multiple properties by which acetyl zingerone (AZ) as a skincare ingredient can benefit skin (1) by helping manage overproduction of ROS through multiple routes as an antioxidant, physical quencher and selective chelator, (2) by fortifying protection after UV exposure ends to prevent the type of epidermal DNA damage that correlates with development of skin cancer, (3) by modulating matrisome activity and nurturing the integrity of the extracellular matrix (ECM) within the dermis and (4) through its proficient ability to neutralize singlet oxygen, by stabilizing the ascorbic acid precursor tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDC) in the dermal microenvironment. This activity improves THDC bioavailability and may blunt pro-inflammatory effects of THDC, such as activation of type I interferon signaling. Moreover, AZ is photostable and can sustain its properties during UV exposure, in contrast to α-tocopherol. All these properties of AZ translate into measurable clinical benefits to improve the visual appearance of photoaged facial skin and to strengthen the skin's own defenses against sun damage.

Balloon Flower Root-Derived Extracellular Vesicles: In Vitro Assessment of Anti-Inflammatory, Proliferative, and Antioxidant Effects for Chronic Wound Healing

Excessive reactive oxygen species (ROS) in wound lesions can lead to oxidative stress and failure of normal wound healing processes, eventually resulting in chronic skin wounds. A multitude of researchers have investigated various natural products with physiological activities, including antioxidant effects, for healing chronic skin wounds. Balloon flower root (BFR), which contains bioactive components such as platycodins, is known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. In this study, we isolated BFR-derived extracellular vesicles (BFR-EVs) that possess anti-inflammatory, proliferative, and antioxidant activities via a combination of polyethylene glycol-based precipitation and ultracentrifugation. Our objective was to investigate the potential of BFR-EVs in treating chronic wounds caused by ROS. Despite efficient intracellular delivery, BFR-EVs showed no significant cytotoxicity. In addition, BFR-EVs inhibited the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokine genes in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Furthermore, water-soluble tetrazolium salt-8 assay showed that BFR-EVs had a proliferation-promoting effect on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). Scratch closure and transwell migration assays indicated that BFR-EVs could promote the migration of HDFs. When the antioxidant effect of BFR-EVs was evaluated through 2',7'-dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate staining and quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction, the results revealed that BFR-EVs significantly suppressed ROS generation and oxidative stress induced by H₂O₂ and ultraviolet irradiation. Our findings suggest that BFR-EVs hold the potential as a natural candidate for healing chronic skin wounds.

Current and emerging applications of saccharide-modified chitosan: a critical review

Chitin, as the main component of the exoskeleton of Arthropoda, is a highly available natural polymer that can be processed into various value-added products. Its most important derivative, i.e., chitosan, comprising β-1,4-linked 2-amino-2-deoxy-β-d-glucose (deacetylated d-glucosamine) and N-acetyl-d-glucosamine units, can be prepared via alkaline deacetylation process. Chitosan has been used as a biodegradable, biocompatible, non-antigenic, and nontoxic polymer in some in-vitro applications, but the recently found potentials of chitosan for in-vivo applications based on its biological activities, especially antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anticancer activities, have upgraded the chitosan roles in biomaterials. Chitosan approval, generally recognized as a safe compound by the United States Food and Drug Administration, has attracted much attention toward its possible applications in diverse fields, especially biomedicine and agriculture. Even with some favorable characteristics, the chitosan's structure should be customized for advanced applications, especially due to its drawbacks, such as low drug-load capacity, low solubility, high viscosity, lack of elastic properties, and pH sensitivity. In this context, derivatization with relatively inexpensive and highly available mono- and di-saccharides to soluble branched chitosan has been considered a "game changer". This review critically reviews the emerging technologies based on the synthesis and application of lactose- and galactose-modified chitosan as two important chitosan derivatives. Some characteristics of chitosan derivatives and biological activities have been detailed first to understand the value of these natural polymers. Second, the saccharide modification of chitosan has been discussed briefly. Finally, the applications of lactose- and galactose-modified chitosan have been scrutinized and compared to native chitosan to provide an insight into the current state-of-the research for stimulating new ideas with the potential of filling research gaps.

Protective effects of Capsicum fruits and their constituents on damage in TNF-α-stimulated human dermal fibroblasts

BACKGROUND

Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of natural products on skin cells have been proved to be effective in improving skin damage. Capsicum species contain capsaicinoids that have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, and various subspecies are cultivated. In this study, the effects of four Capsicum fruits and major constituents on oxidative stress and inflammatory reactions were measured using human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) to verify their effects on skin damage.

RESULTS

The inhibitory effects of nitric oxide (NO), reactive oxygen species (ROS), and prostaglandin E₂ (PGE₂ ) by cucumber hot pepper, red pepper (RDP), Shishito pepper (SSP), and Cheongyang pepper were determined in HDFs. RDP and SSP inhibited the production of NO, ROS, and PGE₂ in tumor necrosis factor-alpha-stimulated HDFs. Additionally, SSP seeds restored tumor necrosis factor-alpha-induced increase in matrix metalloproteinase-1 and decreased procollagen I α1 (COLIA1). In high-performance liquid chromatography analysis of the capsaicinoids capsaicin (CAP) and dihydrocapsaicin (DHC), CAP was detected at a higher level than DHC in the peel and seeds of all four types of Capsicum fruits, and the total amount of capsaicinoids was the highest in SSP. CAP and DHC, which are major constituents of Capsicum fruits, also inhibited NO, ROS, and PGE₂ and restored matrix metalloproteinase-1 and procollagen I α1.

CONCLUSION

RDP and SSP were shown to have a significant protective effect on skin damage, including oxidative stress, inflammatory reactions, and reduction of collagens. Capsaicinoids CAP and DHC were proved as active constituents. This research may provide basic data for developing Capsicum fruits as ingredients to improve skin damage, such as inflammation and skin aging. © 2022 Society of Chemical Industry.

Pirfenidone Protects from UVB-Induced Photodamage in Hairless Mice

Background: Ultraviolet radiation (UV) is the main environmental factor that causes histological degenerative changes of the skin giving rise to a chronic process called photodamage. Non-melanoma skin cancer induced by UVB radiation is a result of a cascade of molecular events caused by DNA damage in epidermis cells, including persistent inflammation, oxidative stress, and suppression of T cell-mediated immunity. Retinoids such as tretinoin have been widely used in skin to treat photoaging and photodamage, though its secondary adverse effects have been recognized. Pirfenidone (PFD) has emerged as an antifibrogenic, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant agent, and in this work its efficacy was evaluated in a model of UVB-induced photodamage. Methods: Epidermal, dermal, and inflammatory changes were measured by histomorphometric parameters. In addition, gene, and protein expression of key molecules in these processes were evaluated. Results: Our results revealed an anti-photodamage effect of topical PFD with absence of inflammatory skin lesions determined by dermoscopy. In addition, PFD reduced elastosis, improved organization, arrangement, and deposition of dermal collagens, downregulated several pro-inflammatory markers such as NF-kB, IL-1, IL-6 and TNFα, and decreased keratinocyte damage. Conclusion: Topical pirfenidone represents a promising agent for the treatment of cell photodamage in humans. Clinical trials need to be carried out to explore this premise.

Protective Effect of Castanopsis sieboldii Extract against UVB-Induced Photodamage in Keratinocytes

Ultraviolet B (UVB) rays disrupt the skin by causing photodamage via processes such as reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, endoplasmic reticulum (ER) stress, DNA damage, and/or collagen degradation. Castanopsis sieboldii is an evergreen tree native to the southern Korean peninsula. Although it is known to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, its protective effect against photodamage in keratinocytes has not been investigated. Thus, in the present study, we investigated the effect of 70% ethanol extract of C. sieboldii leaf (CSL3) on UVB-mediated skin injuries and elucidated the underlying molecular mechanisms. CSL3 treatment restored the cell viability decreased by UVB irradiation. Moreover, CSL3 significantly inhibited UVB- or tert-butyl hydroperoxide-mediated ROS generation in HaCaT cells. ER stress was inhibited, whereas autophagy was upregulated by CSL3 treatment against UVB irradiation. Additionally, CSL3 increased collagen accumulation and cell migration, which were decreased by UVB exposure. Notably, epigallocatechin gallate, the major component of CSL3, improved the cell viability decreased by UVB irradiation through regulation of ER stress and autophagy. Conclusively, CSL3 may represent a promising therapeutic candidate for the treatment of UVB-induced skin damage.

Radiation from UV-A to Red Light Induces ROS-Dependent Release of Neutrophil Extracellular Traps

Neutrophils release decondensed chromatin or extracellular traps (NETs) in response to various physiological and pharmacological stimuli. Apart from host defensive functions, NETs play an essential role in the pathogenesis of various autoimmune, inflammatory, and malignant diseases. In recent years, studies have been performed on photo-induced NET formation, mainly activated by UV radiation. Understanding the mechanisms of NET release under the influence of UV and visible light is important to control the consequences of the damaging effects of electromagnetic radiation. Raman spectroscopy was applied to record characteristic Raman frequencies of various reactive oxygen species (ROS) and low-frequency lattice vibrational modes for citrulline. NETosis was induced by irradiation with wavelength-switchable LED sources. Fluorescence microscopy was used to visualize and quantify NET release. The ability of five wavelengths of radiation, from UV-A to red light, to induce NETosis was investigated at three different energy doses. We demonstrated, for the first time, that NET formation is activated not only by UV-A but also by three spectra of visible light: blue, green, and orange, in a dose-dependent manner. Using inhibitory analysis, we established that light-induced NETosis proceeds through NADPH oxidase and PAD4. The development of new drugs designed to suppress NETosis, especially when induced by exposure to intense UV and visible light, can help to mitigate light-induced photoaging and other damaging effects of electromagnetic radiation.

Aspirin-Triggered Resolvin D1 (AT-RvD1) Protects Mouse Skin against UVB-Induced Inflammation and Oxidative Stress

Intense exposure to UVB radiation incites excessive production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inflammation. The resolution of inflammation is an active process orchestrated by a family of lipid molecules that includes AT-RvD1, a specialized proresolving lipid mediator (SPM). AT-RvD1 is derived from omega-3, which presents anti-inflammatory activity and reduces oxidative stress markers. The present work aims to investigate the protective effect of AT-RvD1 on UVB-induced inflammation and oxidative stress in hairless mice. Animals were first treated with 30, 100, and 300 pg/animal AT-RvD1 (i.v.) and then exposed to UVB (4.14 J/cm²). The results showed that 300 pg/animal of AT-RvD1 could restrict skin edema, neutrophil and mast cell infiltration, COX-2 mRNA expression, cytokine release, and MMP-9 activity and restore skin antioxidant capacity as per FRAP and ABTS assays and control O₂^•- production, lipoperoxidation, epidermal thickening, and sunburn cells development. AT-RvD1 could reverse the UVB-induced downregulation of Nrf2 and its downstream targets GSH, catalase, and NOQ-1. Our results suggest that by upregulating the Nrf2 pathway, AT-RvD1 promotes the expression of ARE genes, restoring the skin's natural antioxidant defense against UVB exposition to avoid oxidative stress, inflammation, and tissue damage.

Anti-Oxidative and Anti-Aging Effects of Ethanol Extract of the Officinal Breynia (Breynia vitis-idaea) In Vitro

The skin is the largest organ of the human body, and it is also the one most exposed to external environmental contaminants. The skin is the body's first defense against harmful environmental stimuli, including ultraviolet B (UVB) rays and hazardous chemicals. Therefore, proper care of the skin is required to prevent skin-related diseases and age-related symptoms. In this study, we analyzed anti-aging and anti-oxidative effects of Breynia vitis-idaea ethanol extract (Bv-EE) in human keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. The Bv-EE had free radical scavenging activity and decreased the mRNA expression of MMPs and COX-2 in H₂O₂- or UVB-treated HaCaT cells. The Bv-EE also inhibited AP-1 transcriptional activity and phosphorylation of c-Jun N-terminal kinase, extracellular signal-regulated kinase, and mitogen-activated protein kinase 14 (p38), which are major AP-1 activators upon H₂O₂ or UVB exposure. Furthermore, the promoter activity and mRNA expression of collagen type I (Col1A1) increased in HDF cells treated with Bv-EE, and Bv-EE recovered the collagen mRNA expression decreased by H₂O₂ or UVB exposure. These results suggest that Bv-EE has anti-oxidative effects by inhibiting the AP-1 signaling pathway, and shows anti-aging effects by upregulating collagen synthesis.

Docsubty: FLALipid extract derived from newly isolated Rhodotorula toruloides LAB-07 for cosmetic applications

Rhodotorula toruloides is a non-conventional yeast with a natural carotenoid pathway. In particular, R. toruloides is an oleaginous yeast that can accumulate lipids in high content, thereby gaining interest as a promising industrial host. In this study, we isolated and taxonomically identified a new R. toruloides LAB-07 strain. De novo genome assembly using PacBio and Illumina hybrid platforms yielded 27 contigs with a 20.78 Mb genome size. Subsequent genome annotation analysis based on RNA-seq predicted 5296 protein-coding genes, including the fatty acid production pathway. We compared lipid production under different media; it was highest in the yeast extract salt medium with glycerol as a carbon source. Polyunsaturated α-linolenic acid was detected among the fatty acids, and docking phosphatidylcholine as a substrate to modeled Fad2, which annotated as Δ12-fatty acid desaturase showed bifunctional Δ12, 15-desaturation is structurally possible in that the distances between the diiron center and the carbon-carbon bond in which desaturation occurs were similar to those of structurally identified mouse stearoyl-CoA desaturase. Finally, the applicability of the extracted total lipid fraction of R. toruloides was investigated, demonstrating an increase in filaggrin expression and suppression of heat-induced MMP-1 expression when applied to keratinocytes, along with the additional antioxidant activity. This work presents a new R. toruloides LAB-07 strain with genomic and lipidomic data, which would help understand the physiology of R. toruloides. Also, the various skin-related effect of R. toruloides lipid extract indicates its potential usage as a promising cosmetic ingredient.

Exploring the mechanism of MP gel against skin photoaging based on network pharmacology, molecular docking, and experimental validation

OBJECTIVE

Long-term and high exposure to UV radiation can lead to the development of skin photoaging diseases. Therefore, there is an ongoing need for more natural and safe drugs to prevent or treat skin photoaging diseases.

METHODS

The Traditional Chinese Medicine Systems Pharmacology Database and Analysis Platform database were used to collect the active compounds and corresponding targets of Cnidii Fructus, Arnebiae Radix, Angelicae Sinensis Radix, Poria, and Borneolum. The GeneCards database and the NCBI Gene database were used to collect the targets of skin photoaging diseases. The STRING database was used to construct a protein-protein interaction network formed by the intersecting targets of drugs and diseases. The Metascape database was applied for Gene Ontology and Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and Genomes pathway enrichment analysis of the targets. Molecular docking between active compounds and targets was verified by Autodock. After that, the skin photoaging model of mice was established and treated with MP gel. The skin characterization on the back of mice was observed, and the ameliorative effect of MP gel on skin photoaging was evaluated by histological and epidermal thickness assays. The MDA content and SOD activity were measured. Caspase-3 expression in mouse skin tissues was detected by immunohistochemistry, quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction assay, and Western blot.

RESULTS

The results of network pharmacology experiments showed that the natural drugs have multi-component, multi-target therapeutic disease characteristics. The results of animal studies showed that MP gel improved the health of photoaged skin, promoted skin structural integrity, had antioxidant properties and significantly inhibited caspase-3 expression.

CONCLUSION

The experimental validation of the results of the preliminary network pharmacology analysis was carried out in animal experiments, which confirmed part of the mechanism of action of MP gel in the prevention and treatment of skin photoaging.

Cottonseed oil: A review of extraction techniques, physicochemical, functional, and nutritional properties

Seed oils are the richest source of vitamin-E-active compounds, which contribute significantly to antioxidant activities. Cottonseed oil (CS-O) is attaining more consideration owing to its high fiber content and stability against auto-oxidation. CS-O has gained a good reputation in the global edible oil market due to its distinctive fatty acid profile, anti-inflammatory, and cardio-protective properties. CS-O can be extracted from cottonseed (CS) by microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), aqueous/solvent extraction (A/SE), aqueous ethanol extraction (A-EE), subcritical water extraction, supercritical carbon dioxide extraction (SC-CO₂), and enzyme-assisted extraction (E-AE). In this review, the importance, byproducts, physicochemical characteristics, and nutritional profile of CS-O have been explained in detail. This paper also provides a summary of scientific studies existing on functional and phytochemical characteristics of CS-O. Its consumption and health benefits are also deliberated to discover its profitability and applications. CS-O contains 26-35% saturated, 42-52% polyunsaturated, and 18-24% monounsaturated FA. There is approximately 1000 ppm of tocopherols in unprocessed CS-O, but up to one-third is lost during processing. Moreover, besides being consumed as cooking oil, CS-O discovers applications in many fields such as biofuel, livestock, cosmetics, agriculture, and chemicals. This paper provides a comprehensive review of CS-O, its positive benefits, fatty acid profile, extraction techniques, and health applications.HighlightsCS-O is a rich source of exceptional fatty acids.Various techniques to extract the CS-O are discussed.Numerous physicochemical properties of CS-O for the potential market are assessed.It has a wide range of functional properties.Nutritional quality and health benefits are also evaluated.

α-Ionone protects against UVB-induced photoaging in epidermal keratinocytes

Objective

To evaluate whether α-ionone, an aromatic compound mainly found in raspberries, carrots, roasted almonds, fruits, and herbs, inhibits UVB-mediated photoaging and barrier dysfunction in a human epidermal keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells).

Methods

The anti-photoaging effect of α-ionone was evaluated by detecting the expression of barrier-related genes and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) in HaCaT cells. The levels of reactive oxygen species, oxidation product, antioxidant enzyme, and inflammatory factors were further analysed to underline the protective effect of α-ionone on epidermal photoaging.

Results

It was found that α-ionone attenuated UVB-induced barrier dysfunction by reversing keratin 1 and filaggrin in HaCaT cells. α-Ionone also reduced the protein amount of MMP-1 and mRNA expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells, implying protective effects on extracellular matrix. Furthermore, HaCaT cells exposed to α-ionone showed significant decreases in interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6, IL-8, and tumor necrosis factor-α as compared to UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. α-Ionone treatment significantly inhibited the UVB-induced intracellular reactive oxygen species increase and malondialdehyde accumulation. Therefore, the beneficial effects of α-ionone on inhibiting MMPs secretion and barrier damage may be related to attenuated inflammation and oxidative stress.

Conclusion

Our results highlight the protective effects of α-ionone on epidermal photoaging and promote its clinic application as a potential natural anti-photodamage agent in future.

In search of the perfect tan: Chemical activity, biological effects, business considerations, and consumer implications of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanning products

As the desire and popularity of a tanned appearance continues, the social effects of UV-free tanning are becoming more important. Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) has seen extensive use as the main tanning agent in sunless tanners. The DHA-induced tan is a result of brown melanoidins formed by a non-enzymatic Maillard reaction between DHA and amino acid species found in the stratum corneum. DHA, thereby, provides a safer route to a tanned appearance compared with exposure to ultraviolet radiation. However, DHA is a highly reactive molecule, posing a multitude of challenges for potential product formulations. With their increased use, the safety considerations of topically applied DHA tanners have been investigated. Many different vehicles have been used for topical delivery of DHA, and they are becoming increasingly multifunctional. This review provides a holistic overview of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanning products.

Fish Collagen Peptide (NaticolⓇ) Protects the Skin from Dryness, Wrinkle Formation, and Melanogenesis Both In Vitro and In Vivo

Consistent ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation exposure results in dry skin, wrinkles, and melanogenesis. In this study, we investigated whether fish collagen peptide (Naticol^Ⓡ) could inhibit photoaging and oxidative stress in skin exposed to UVB using cell and animal models. We measured the skin hydration, histological observations, antioxidant activities, moisturizing-related factors, collagen synthesis-related factors, and melanogenesis-related factors in skin cells and animal skin using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay, real-time polymerase chain reaction, and Western blot assay. Naticol^Ⓡ collagen improved skin moisturization via hyaluronic acid and ceramide synthesis-related factors in HaCaT cells and SHK-I hairless mice that were exposed to UVB. In addition, Naticol^Ⓡ collagen inhibited wrinkle formation in Hs27 cells and SHK-I hairless mice exposed to UVB and restrained melanogenesis in 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine-induced B16F10 cells and UVB-irradiated SHK-I hairless mice. On the basis of these findings, we propose that ingestion of Naticol ^Ⓡ collagen might be valuable for preventing skin photoaging.

Dieckol Isolated from Eisenia bicyclis Ameliorates Wrinkling and Improves Skin Hydration via MAPK/AP-1 and TGF-β/Smad Signaling Pathways in UVB-Irradiated Hairless Mice

Repetitive exposure to ultraviolet B (UVB) is one of the main causes of skin photoaging. We previously reported that dieckol isolated from Eisenia bicyclis extract has potential anti-photoaging effects in UVB-irradiated Hs68 cells. Here, we aimed to evaluate the anti-photoaging activity of dieckol in a UVB-irradiated hairless mouse model. In this study, hairless mice were exposed to UVB for eight weeks. At the same time, dieckol at two doses (5 or 10 mg/kg) was administered orally three times a week. We found that dieckol suppressed UVB-induced collagen degradation and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs)-1, -3, and -9 expression by regulating transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β)/Smad2/3 and mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs)/activator protein-1 (AP-1) signaling. In addition, dieckol rescued the production of hyaluronic acid (HA) and effectively restored the mRNA expression of hyaluronan synthase (HAS)-1/-2 and hyaluronidase (HYAL)-1/-2 in UVB-irradiated hairless mice. We observed a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), epidermal/dermal thickness, and wrinkle formation in hairless mice administered dieckol. Based on these results, we suggest that dieckol, due to its anti-photoaging role, may be used as a nutricosmetic ingredient for improving skin health.