Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance

Niacinamide: a review on dermal delivery strategies and clinical evidence

Niacinamide, an active form of vitamin B3, is recognised for its significant dermal benefits including skin brightening, anti-ageing properties and the protection of the skin barrier. Its widespread incorporation into cosmetic products, ranging from cleansers to serums, is attributed to its safety profile and proven efficacy. Recently, topical niacinamide has also been explored for other pharmaceutical applications, including skin cancers. Therefore, a fundamental understanding of the skin permeation behaviour of niacinamide becomes crucial for formulation design. Given the paucity of a comprehensive review on this aspect, we provide insights into the mechanisms of action of topically applied niacinamide and share the current strategies used to enhance its skin permeation. This review also consolidates clinical evidence of topical niacinamide for its cosmeceutical uses and as treatment for some skin disorders, including dermatitis, acne vulgaris and actinic keratosis. We also emphasise the current exploration and perspectives on the delivery designs of topical niacinamide, highlighting the potential development of formulations focused on enhancing skin permeation, particularly for clinical benefits.

Supramolecular salicylic acid combined with niacinamide in chloasma: a randomized controlled trial

BACKGROUND

Chloasma is a common skin hyperpigmentation condition, with treatment options ranging from topical agents to advanced interventions such as chemical peels and laser therapy. Salicylic acid, including its supramolecular form (SSA), has shown promise in managing chloasma. However, to date, no multicentre randomized controlled trial of SSA for chloasma is available.

OBJECTIVES

The purpose of this study was to assess the efficacy and safety of 30% SSA combined with 10% niacinamide in treating -chloasma.

METHODS

This multicentre (n = 15), randomized, double-blind, parallel placebo-controlled trial (Clinical trial registration number: ChiCTR2200065346) enrolled and randomized 300 participants (1 : 1) to either 30% SSA treatment or placebo, with 150 allocated to treatment and 150 to placebo in the full analysis set, and 144 to treatment and 147 to placebo in the per-protocol set. A Visia® Skin Analysis System was used at each visit to assess the degree of improvement in chloasma lesions. The primary endpoint was the effective rate after 16 weeks, assessed using the modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (mMASI) score [(pretreatment score - post-treatment score)/pretreatment score × 100%].

RESULTS

The total mMASI score, overall score on the Griffiths 10-point scale, and Griffiths 10 score for the left and the right sides of the face were significantly lower in the 30% SSA group than in the placebo group (all P < 0.001). One study of drug-related adverse events (AEs) and one study of drug-unrelated AEs were reported in the 30% SSA group. No AE was reported in the placebo group.

CONCLUSIONS

Among our patients, 30% SSA combined with 10% niacinamide was shown to be effective and safe for treating chloasma.

Elastogenesis in Focus: Navigating Elastic Fibers Synthesis for Advanced Dermal Biomaterial Formulation

Elastin, a fibrous extracellular matrix (ECM) protein, is the main component of elastic fibers that are involved in tissues' elasticity and resilience, enabling them to undergo reversible extensibility and to endure repetitive mechanical stress. After wounding, it is challenging to regenerate elastic fibers and biomaterials developed thus far have struggled to induce its biosynthesis. This review provides a comprehensive summary of elastic fibers synthesis at the cellular level and its implications for biomaterial formulation, with a particular focus on dermal substitutes. The review delves into the intricate process of elastogenesis by cells and investigates potential triggers for elastogenesis encompassing elastin-related compounds, ECM components, and other molecules for their potential role in inducing elastin formation. Understanding of the elastogenic processes is essential for developing biomaterials that trigger not only the synthesis of the elastin protein, but also the formation of a functional and branched elastic fiber network.

Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action

The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal-epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-trans retinoic acid is considered the 'gold standard' for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.

Niacinamide Antimicrobial Efficacy and Its Mode of Action via Microbial Cell Cycle Arrest

Niacinamide is a versatile compound widely used in the personal care industry for its ample skin benefits. As a precursor to nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+), essential for ATP production and a substrate for poly-ADP-ribose polymerase-1 (PARP-1), studies have highlighted its roles in DNA repair, cellular stress mechanisms, and anti-aging benefits. Niacinamide was also studied for its antimicrobial activity, particularly in the context of host-infection via host immune response, yet its direct antimicrobial activity and the mechanisms of action remain unclear. Its multifunctionality makes it an appealing bioactive molecule for skincare products as well as a potential preservative solution. This study explores niacinamide's antimicrobial mode of action against four common cosmetic pathogens. Our findings indicate that niacinamide is causing microbial cell cycle arrest; while cells were found to increase their volume and length under treatment to prepare for cell division, complete separation into two daughter cells was prevented. Fluorescence microscopy revealed expanded chromatin, alongside a decreased RNA expression of the DNA-binding protein gene, dps. Finally, niacinamide was found to directly interact with DNA, hindering successful amplification. These unprecedented findings allowed us to add a newly rationalized preservative facete to the wide range of niacinamide multi-functionality.

Analysis of Active Components and Transcriptome of Freesia refracta Callus Extract and Its Effects against Oxidative Stress and Wrinkles in Skin

Freesia refracta (FR), a perennial flower of the Iris family (Iridaceae), is widely used in cosmetics despite limited scientific evidence of its skin benefits and chemical composition, particularly of FR callus extract (FCE). This study identified biologically active compounds in FCE and assessed their skin benefits, focusing on anti-aging. FR calli were cultured, extracted with water at 40 °C, and analyzed using Centrifugal Partition Chromatography (CPC), Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR), and HCA, revealing key compounds, namely nicotinamide and pyroglutamic acid. FCE significantly increased collagen I production by 52% in normal and aged fibroblasts and enhanced fibroblast-collagen interaction by 37%. An in vivo study of 43 female volunteers demonstrated an 11.1% reduction in skin roughness and a 2.3-fold increase in collagen density after 28 days of cream application containing 3% FCE. Additionally, the preservation tests of cosmetics containing FCE confirmed their stability over 12 weeks. These results suggest that FCE offers substantial anti-aging benefits by enhancing collagen production and fibroblast-collagen interactions. These findings highlighted the potential of FCE in cosmetic applications, providing significant improvements in skin smoothness and overall appearance. This study fills a gap in the scientific literature regarding the skin benefits and chemical composition of FR callus extract, supporting its use in the development of effective cosmeceuticals.

Integrating Skincare into Medical Practice

The integration of skincare into medical practice can enhance patient care. Understanding the anatomy and physiology of the skin is the foundation for effective skincare interventions. Genetic and inflammatory conditions play a significant role in aesthetic skin physiology. There are key active ingredients that are pivotal in addressing various skin concerns. Sunscreens provide crucial protection against UV radiation, while pigment control agents such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, and arbutin target the melanin pathway. Exfoliating agents and skin turnover enhancers such as retinoids and hydroxy acids promote skin renewal and rejuvenation. In addition, ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, niacinamide, antioxidants, peptides, and botanicals contribute to improving skin quality. Adding skincare to medical practice requires careful product selection, patient education, and marketing strategies.

Top weapons in skin aging and actives to target the consequences of skin cell senescence

Skin aging has long been considered a purely cosmetic problem. However, as life expectancy increases, skin aging is taking on a functional dimension that goes beyond cosmetics and appearance. Preventive or therapeutic strategies are needed to target cellular senescence, a key process underlying the alterations in skin function and appearance that occur with aging, as well as to address the age-related skin changes associated with 'dermatoporosis' and chronic skin insufficiency/fragility syndrome. Thus, given the need for effective anti-aging products that improve both the appearance and function of the skin, it is essential to distinguish active ingredients that have been proven to be effective, among the large number of available over-the-counter cosmeceuticals. This brief review focuses on a core group of topical actives, describing their clinical effects on senescence and aging, and their molecular mechanisms of action. These actives include hyaluronic acid, which has hydrating and viscoelastic properties and has been shown to reduce skin atrophy; retinaldehyde, which activates retinoid receptors and increases cutaneous elasticity; vitamins C and E, which provide stable oxidative protection; and niacinamide, which reduces inflammation and mitigates the effects of senescence.

A review of the efficacy of popular eye cream ingredients

Background

Due to the periorbital region's high susceptibility to damage from external factors, along with its tendency to demonstrate early signs of aging, periorbital skin is a common target for antiaging therapy.

Objective

This review aims to evaluate the efficacy of active ingredients commonly found in eye creams, particularly focusing on their impact on periorbital skin concerns.

Methods

A comprehensive review of the literature on active ingredients in eye creams, including retinoids, vitamins C and E, peptides, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, caffeine, and niacinamide, was conducted. Clinical studies assessing the efficacy of these ingredients in addressing periorbital concerns were examined.

Results

Studies demonstrate the potential of these ingredients to improve various aspects of periorbital skin, including hydration, elasticity, collagen synthesis, and reduction of inflammatory mediators. Ingredients such as retinoids, vitamin C, and caffeine show promise in addressing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, while peptides and hyaluronic acid aid in collagen production and hydration. Niacinamide and ceramides offer benefits in reducing wrinkles and enhancing the skin barrier function.

Limitations

The lack of clinical trials specifically targeting eye cream formulations and periorbital skin is a notable limitation. Furthermore, the variability in study designs, sample sizes, and concentrations of active ingredients across studies complicates direct comparisons.

Conclusion

The reviewed studies highlight the potential of active ingredients in eye creams to address various periorbital concerns. Further research, particularly large-scale clinical trials focusing on eye cream formulations and their efficacy on periorbital skin, is warranted to establish their significance and comparability with other dermatologic products.

Inhibition of UVB radiation-induced tissue swelling and immune suppression by nicotinamide riboside and pterostilbene

BACKGROUND

Environmental ultraviolet radiation has deleterious effects on humans, including sunburn and immune perturbations. These immune changes are involved in skin carcinogenesis.

OBJECTIVES

To determine whether nicotinamide riboside and/or pterostilbene administered systemically inhibits inflammatory and immune effects of exposure to mid-range ultraviolet radiation.

METHODS

To examine UVB radiation-induced inflammatory effects, mice were fed standard chow/water, 0.04% pterostilbene in chow and 0.2% nicotinamide riboside in drinking water, diet with nicotinamide riboside alone, or diet with pterostilbene alone. After 4 weeks, mice were exposed to UVB radiation (3500 J/m2), and 24-/48-h ear swelling was assessed. We also asked if each agent or the combination inhibits UVB radiation suppression of contact hypersensitivity in two models. Mice were fed standard diet/water or chow containing 0.08% pterostilbene, water with 0.4% nicotinamide riboside, or both for 4 weeks. Low-dose: Half the mice in each group were exposed on the depilated dorsum to UVB radiation (1700 J/m2) daily for 4 days, whereas half were mock-irradiated. Mice were immunized on the exposed dorsum to dinitrofluorobenzene 4 h after the last irradiation, challenged 7 days later on the ears with dinitrofluorobenzene, and 24-h ear swelling assessed. High dose: Mice were treated similarly except that a single dose of 10,000 J/m2 of radiation was administered and immunization was performed on the unirradiated shaved abdomen 3 days later.

RESULTS

Nicotinamide riboside and pterostilbene together inhibited UVB-induced skin swelling more than either alone. Pterostilbene alone and both given together could inhibit UVB-induced immune suppression in both the low-dose and high-dose models while nicotinamide riboside alone was more effective in the low-dose model than the high-dose model.

CONCLUSION

Nicotinamide riboside and pterostilbene have protective effects against UVB radiation-induced tissue swelling and immune suppression.

Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Products

Niacinamide (or nicotinamide) is a small-molecule hydrosoluble vitamin with essential metabolic functions in mammalian cells. Niacinamide has become a key functional ingredient in diverse skincare products and cosmetics. This vitamin plays a pivotal role in NAD+ synthesis, notably contributing to redox reactions and energy production in cutaneous cells. Via diversified biochemical mechanisms, niacinamide is also known to influence human DNA repair and cellular stress responses. Based on decades of safe use in cosmetics, niacinamide recently gained widespread popularity as an active ingredient which aligns with the "Kligman standards" in skincare. From a therapeutic standpoint, the intrinsic properties of niacinamide may be applied to managing acne vulgaris, melasma, and psoriasis. From a cosmeceutical standpoint, niacinamide has been widely leveraged as a multipurpose antiaging ingredient. Therein, it was shown to significantly reduce cutaneous oxidative stress, inflammation, and pigmentation. Overall, through multimodal mechanisms, niacinamide may be considered to partially prevent and/or reverse several biophysical changes associated with skin aging. The present narrative review provides multifactorial insights into the mechanisms of niacinamide's therapeutic and cosmeceutical functions. The ingredient's evolving role in skincare was critically appraised, with a strong focus on the biochemical mechanisms at play. Finally, novel indications and potential applications of niacinamide in dermal fillers and alternative injectable formulations were prospectively explored.

Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.

Efficacy of Dr. SKS Hair Booster Serum in the Treatment of Female Pattern Alopecia in Patients With PCOS: An Open-Label, Non-randomized, Prospective Study

Background Many patients with polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) exhibit female pattern hair loss (FPHL). A more advanced, efficient, and suitable therapeutic approach is required to effectively manage FPHL in patients with PCOS. Aim Dr. SKS Hair Booster Serum is composed of copper, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, thiamine, riboflavin, and biotin; each of these constituents has demonstrated individual efficacy in promoting hair growth and enhancing hair quality. We hereby assess the effectiveness of this novel hair formulation in treating FPHL in PCOS. Methods This was an open-label, non-randomized, multicenter, prospective, large study with a wide range of age groups. The study involving 1,000 females aged 25-50 years, diagnosed with PCOS and having complaints of FPHL with Ludwig grades I and II. Each patient received a monthly session of Dr. SKS Hair Booster Serum, with 1 mL of serum administered through injection into the superficial layer (dermis) of the scalp using a tiny infusion via an insulin syringe, mesotherapy, or via a derma roller/derma pen. All the patients were subjected to standard global photography, video microscopic assessment (vellus hair counts, terminal hair counts, and hair shaft diameter), and a subject self-assessment questionnaire at baseline and six months after the treatment. Results After six months of the treatment, the hair shaft diameter, terminal hair counts, and hair growth rate were significantly increased than baseline (p≤0.0001), and a significant reduction was noted in vellus hair counts than baseline measurement (p<0.00001). These findings are suggestive of improved hair regrowth after the treatment. No adverse events were recorded during the study. Statistically significant improvements were observed in hair parameters (overall hair fall rate, hair texture, hair volume, and scalp itching) after six months of treatment than baseline. Conclusion Dr. SKS Hair Booster Serum has been shown to be an effective treatment for FPHL in patients with PCOS. This study marks the first investigation into the use of Dr. SKS Hair Booster Serum in patients with PCOS.

Periorbital rejuvenation in the clinic: A state-of-the-art review

Objective

To provide an overview of the various treatment options available in the clinic to achieve periorbital rejuvenation.

Data Sources

Literature review and expert opinion.

Conclusions

Periorbital rejuvenation in the clinic can be accomplished through a variety of treatment modalities, including topical therapies, skin resurfacing, and fillers and injectables. Furthermore, some surgical approaches, such as upper blepharoplasties, ptosis, and brow lifts, can be performed in the clinic under local anesthesia with only mild oral sedation. However, the successful execution of such procedures depends on proper patient selection and maximizing patient comfort.

A Single-Center Study Evaluating the Effects of a Topical Serum Combining Postbiotics, Peptides, and Botanical Extracts on Skin

Background

Aging, influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, leads to visible skin changes such as dryness, surface roughness, and loss of luminosity. Proper skin care can mitigate some of these effects, with topical combination products offering support through complementary mechanisms.

Objectives

To test efficacy and safety of GSYBS-7 (Goop Beauty Youth-Boost Peptide Serum; Goop Inc., Santa Monica, CA), a topical postbiotic and botanical combination serum, used twice daily on facial skin for 6 weeks.

Methods

In this 19-patient pilot study, the primary efficacy measure was improvement on the Global Ranking Scale (GRS) at 42 days. A 12-point patient satisfaction survey and the serum's effect on healing after ablative laser treatment served as secondary and exploratory measures, respectively.

Results

Statistically significant improvements in all GRS domains were observed as early as day 7 with ongoing improvement up to day 42. A >1-point improvement was observed for dehydration (1.8; 95% CI, 1.5-2.2), visible pores (1.6; 95% CI, 1.3-2.0), surface roughness (1.6; 95% CI, 1.3-1.9), imbalance (1.3; 95% CI, .9-1.7), static wrinkles (1.3; 95% CI, .9-1.6), pigmentation (1.3; 95% CI, 1.0-1.5), and vasculature (1.2; 95% CI, .8-1.5). Independent photographic review and patient satisfaction surveys corroborated these findings. At day 42, 94.4% of patients were very satisfied with the results, and 88.9% would recommend GSYBS-7 to family and friends. No adverse events were reported, and 100% of patients indicated that GSYBS-7 was gentle enough for everyday use.

Conclusions

GSYBS-7 appears to be an effective and well-tolerated combination topical for the management of age-related and environment-induced skin changes.

Level of Evidence 4

The Efficacy and Safety of Dr. SKS Hair Booster Serum (a Cocktail of Micronutrients and Multivitamins) in Adult Males and Females With Androgenetic Alopecia: An Open-Label, Non-randomized, Prospective Study

Background Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is frequently encountered in dermatological practice; however, there is a lack of approved treatment. At present, only three therapies have been approved for on-label use in androgenetic alopecia: minoxidil, finasteride, and lower-level laser therapy. Micronutrients are primary elements in the normal hair follicle cycle, and their role in androgenetic alopecia is a growing matter of research nowadays. This study aims to investigate the clinical efficacy and safety of Dr. SKS Hair Booster Serum, a cocktail of micronutrients and multivitamins (copper, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, thiamine, riboflavin, and biotin), in male and female patients with androgenetic alopecia. Methods We did an open-label, non-randomized, multicenter, prospective study across five hair clinic chains in India (Mumbai, Hyderabad, Jabalpur, Balaghat, and Nagpur). Eligible participants were patients with a confirmed diagnosis of androgenetic alopecia based on clinical examination and trichoscopic findings, age of 18 years or older, and any gender. Each patient received Dr. SKS Hair Booster Serum, 1 ml in volume, once a month by mesotherapy or derma roller/derma pen for up to six months. All patients were subjected to a 60-second hair count test (comb test), hair pull test, global photographic assessment (GPA), trichoscopy assessment, patient self-assessment questionnaire, and safety assessment at baseline and six months after the treatment. Results One thousand patients (500 males and females each) with androgenetic alopecia were analyzed. There was a significant reduction in hair fall with bulb (<0.0001) and without bulb (<0.0001) six months after the treatment versus baseline. There was a significant improvement in the number of hairs removed per pull (<0.0001), global photographic assessment score (<0.0001), hair growth rate (<0.0001), follicular hair density (<0.0001), vellus hair density (<0.0001), and terminal hair density (<0.0001) six months after the treatment versus baseline. The majority of patients (95%) were satisfied with six-month treatment of Dr. SKS Hair Booster Serum. No major adverse events were reported during the study. Conclusion Dr. SKS Hair Booster Serum was found to be a safe and effective treatment for androgenetic alopecia, with 95% patient self-assessment score.

Cosmetic emulsion based on the fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol: Bioactive properties and sensorial evaluation

In this study, the physicochemical characteristics, bioactive properties, and sensorial evaluation of a O/W cosmetic formulation containing FucoPol, a fucose-containing bacterial polysaccharide, were assessed. The stability of the FucoPol-based cream, named F-cream, was demonstrated over a period of 2 months at different temperatures (4, 20 and 30 °C), during which it maintained the organoleptic characteristics and pH (5.88-6.19), with minimal variations on the apparent viscosity. Furthermore, no breaking mechanisms occurred upon centrifuging the samples (accelerated stability test) kept at 4 °C and at 30 °C for 60 days. The F-cream presented a shear-thinning and solid-liquid behavior consistent with its envisaged use for topical applications, proving to be a suitable candidate for an anti-aging application due to its antioxidant capacity and effective photoprotection, maintaining cellular preservation. Moreover, the formulation was proven non-cytotoxic for HaCaT cells at concentrations between 0.78 and 12.5 mg/mL, promoting HFFF2 cell migration (46-70 % of wound closure) at a concentration of 2.5 mg/mL, and HaCaT cell migration at a concentration of 10 mg/mL (95-98 % of wound closure). Upon application over the skin, the F-cream provided a hydration and softness with desired spreadability with no residues after application. These findings show that FucoPol has good potential to be used as a functional and/or active ingredient in cosmetic formulations, forming an emulsified cream with appealing sensorial properties that can act as a moisturizer with photoprotection, antioxidant, and regeneration properties.

3D Printed Hollow Microneedles for Treating Skin Wrinkles Using Different Anti-Wrinkle Agents: A Possible Futuristic Approach

Skin wrinkles are an inevitable phenomenon that is brought about by aging due to the degradation of scleroprotein fibers and significant collagen reduction, which is the fundamental basis of anti-wrinkle technology in use today. Conventional treatments such as lasering and Botulinum toxin have some drawbacks including allergic skin reactions, cumbersome treatment procedures, and inefficient penetration of the anti-wrinkle products into the skin due to the high resistance of stratum corneum. Bearing this in mind, the cosmetic industry has exploited the patient-compliant technology of microneedles (MNs) to treat skin wrinkles, developing several products based on solid and dissolvable MNs incorporated with antiwrinkle formulations. However, drug administration via these MNs is limited by the high molecular weight of the drugs. Hollow MNs (HMNs) can deliver a wider array of active agents, but that is a relatively unexplored area in the context of antiwrinkle technology. To address this gap, we discuss the possibility of bioinspired 3D printed HMNs in treating skin wrinkles in this paper. We compare the previous and current anti-wrinkling treatment options, as well as the techniques and challenges involved with its manufacture and commercialization.

Efficacy and Safety of the Genistein Nutraceutical Product Containing Vitamin E, Vitamin B3, and Ceramide on Skin Health in Postmenopausal Women: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial

Skin aging is one of the most concerning issues that occur after menopause. The Genistein Nutraceutical (GEN) product, containing genistein, vitamin E, vitamin B3, and ceramide, has been formulated as a topical anti-aging product for improving the health of postmenopausal women's facial skin. This study aimed to investigate the efficacy and safety of the GEN product on postmenopausal women's facial skin. This randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial randomly assigned 50 postmenopausal women to receive either the GEN product (n = 25) or the placebo (PLA) product (n = 25), topically applied twice daily for 6 weeks. The outcome assessments included multiple skin parameters related to skin wrinkling, color, hydration, and facial skin quality at baseline and week 6. The percentage mean changes or absolute mean changes, where appropriate, in skin parameters were compared between the two groups. The mean age of the participants was 55.8 ± 3.4 years. For skin wrinkling and skin color parameters, only skin redness was significantly higher in the GEN group when compared to the PLA group. Following the application of the GEN product, skin hydration increased while fine pores and their area decreased. Subgroup analysis of older women (age ≥ 56 years) with adequate compliance found significant differences between the two groups in the percentage mean changes of most skin wrinkle parameters. The GEN product has benefits for the facial skin of postmenopausal women, particularly those who are older. It can moisturize facial skin, lessen wrinkles, and enhance redness.

Clinical Use of Non-Suture Silk-Containing Products: A Systematic Review

AIMS

The purpose of this systematic review is to determine how various innovative non-suture silk and silk-containing products are being used in clinical practice, and compare patient outcomes following their use.

METHODS

A systematic review of PubMed, Web of Science, and Cochrane was completed. A qualitative synthesis of all included studies was then performed.

RESULTS

Our electronic search identified 868 silk-related publications, which yielded 32 studies for full-text review. After exclusion, nine studies from 2011 to 2018 were included for qualitative analysis. A total of 346 patients were included which consisted of 37 males and 309 females. The mean age range was between 18-79 years old. The follow-up among studies ranged between one to twenty-nine months. Three studies addressed the application of silk in wound dressings, one on the topical application of silk-derived products, one on silk-derived scaffold in breast reconstruction, and three on silk underwear as adjunct for the treatment of gynecological conditions. All studies showed good outcomes alone or in comparison to controls.

CONCLUSION

This systematic review concludes that silk products' structural, immune, and wound-healing modulating properties are advantageous clinical assets. Nevertheless, more studies are needed to strengthen and establish the benefit of those products.

A Randomized, Controlled Clinical Trial of a Dermocosmetic Containing Vichy Volcanic Mineralizing Water and Probiotic Fractions in Subjects with Rosacea Associated with Erythema and Sensitive Skin and Wearing Protective Masks

Purpose

Rosacea is a common facial dermatosis, with flares induced by exposome factors. M89PF containing Vichy mineralizing water, probiotic fractions, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and tocopherol repairs the skin barrier and reinforces skin defences against exposome factors. This study assessed the benefit of M89PF in subjects with rosacea associated with erythema and sensitive skin during the Covid-19 pandemic using protective face masks.

Methods

M89PF was compared to usual skin care in a randomized, split-face study, for 30 days in subjects with rosacea associated with erythema and sensitive skin. Clinical evaluations included erythema, desquamation, skin tightness, dryness, burning sensation, itching, stinging, stinging test, and local tolerability. Instrument evaluations included erythema, skin hydration and TEWL. Subject satisfaction was also assessed.

Results

Erythema significantly improved with M89PF at both time points (p<0.01 at D15, and p<0.001 at D30). Skin sensitivity assessed by the skin stinging test improved significantly (p<0.01) with M89PF at D30, compared to baseline and usual skin care. Skin erythema, tightness, dryness, hydration and TEWL significantly improved (p≤0.05) with M89PF at D15 and D30, versus baseline and the untreated side. Subjects were highly satisfied with M89PF at D15 and D30. Tolerance was very good in all subjects.

Conclusion

In subjects with rosacea, M89PF significantly reduces erythema, skin tightness, dryness and TEWL, and improves skin hydration and skin sensitivity, even when using protective masks. M89PF is well tolerated and received high satisfaction ratings.

ClinicalTrialsgov No

NCT05562661.

Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of new potent antioxidant molecules. This work aims to characterize the frequency of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens. Photoprotective formulations currently marketed in parapharmacies and pharmacies were analyzed with respect to the composition described on the label. As a result, pure compounds with antioxidant activity were found. The majority of sunscreen formulations contained antioxidants, with vitamin E and its derivatives the most frequent. A more thorough analysis of these antioxidants is also provided, unveiling the top antioxidant ingredients found in sunscreens. A critical appraisal of the scientific evidence regarding their effectiveness is also performed. In conclusion, this work provides an up-to-date overview of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens for a better understanding of the advantages associated with their use in photoprotective formulations.

The Clinical Evidence-Based Paradigm of Topical Anti-Aging Skincare Formulations Enriched with Bio-Active Peptide SA1-III (KP1) as Collagen Modulator: From Bench to Bedside

A substantial reduction in the amount and quality of collagen leads to age-related deterioration of the elasticity and firmness of the skin. In recent years, multiple compounds have been developed aimed at reversing the molecular features of dermal aging. One such target for aging reversal is collagen degradation or turnover. SA1-III is a decapeptide (Ac-Met-Gly-Lys-Val-Val-Asn-Pro-Thr-Gln-Lys-NH₂), also known as KP1, formally derived from the C-terminal portion of serpin A1, an agent known as a physiological inhibitor of neutrophil elastase, and has been the subject of laboratory and clinical studies determining its effects on modulation of collagen turnover as well as the treatment of age-associated changes of the face. This review aims to provide a bio-inspired approach focusing on the latest scientific studies that describe the compound, as well as a comprehensive appraisal of laboratory and clinical tests on skincare formulations enriched with sA1-III.

Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits

The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two candidates outperformed the rest: Betula alba (BA) and Empetrum nigrum (EN). Quantitative PCR analysis showed that BA and EN upregulated barrier genes, when used individually and in combination. Betula alba increased AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, something niacinamide was incapable of. Additionally, the skin barrier was strengthened, evidenced by inhibition of KLK5 and hyaluronidase and showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity through DPPH and COX2 inhibition, respectively. A first split-face clinical study was conducted using the combination of extracts versus placebo. There was a significantly better skin restructuring effect and corneocyte cohesion on the side treated with combined extracts. A second split-face clinical study assessed the combined extracts versus 3% niacinamide. Significant variations in skin hydration and TEWL were observed in favor of the extract treated side. In conclusion, we identified a natural alternative to niacinamide for improving skin barrier health, in Scandinavian plant extracts, which yield strong performance, but at a lower concentration.

Compatibility of Personalized Formulations in Cleoderm™, A Skin Rebalancing Cream Base for Oily and Sensitive Skin

Inflammatory skin conditions are prevalent in the general population and are a source of much concern for those who suffer from them. Acne is an extremely common condition and can significantly impact the quality of life of affected patients. Rosacea is another common dermatological disorder that often affects the face and can present with flushing, irritated skin, and pimples. In addition to being key for acne and rosacea, inflammation can also play a role in prematurely aging skin and contributes to the formation of wrinkles. Given the prevalence and patient impact of dermatological conditions on the face, such as those previously described, there is a demand for personalized medicines to manage these conditions when commercially available options are unsuitable, unavailable, or insufficient to fully resolve the condition. When designing an appropriate personalized therapy for a patient, both the vehicle and the active pharmaceutical ingredient choices are key to the success of the treatment. Cleoderm™ is a topical cream designed for use as a vehicle for the preparation of dermatological treatments by compounding pharmacies. Its ingredient profile was specifically curated to be gentle on the skin, allowing its use as a vehicle for compounded preparations that may be applied to sensitive and affected skin. In this bracketed study, benzoyl peroxide, cyproterone acetate, estriol, metronidazole, niacinamide, progesterone, retinoic acid, spironolactone, and tranexamic acid were selected, due to their known applications for dermatological skin conditions. To evaluate the compatibility and stability of Cleoderm™ in these formulations, high-performance liquid chromatography, followed by antimicrobial effectiveness testing, were performed for 180 days. For most formulations, a beyond-use date of 180 days was observed when stored at room temperature, except for retinoic acid, which had a beyond-use date of 30 days. Through the outcomes of this study, we concluded that Cleoderm™ presents increased convenience for both the compounding pharmacist and the patient, suggesting that it is an adequate candidate vehicle for compounding different dermatological formulations with adequate stability, presenting itself as a good alternative to commercially available treatments that cannot be personalized.

In Vitro Skin Co-Delivery and Antibacterial Properties of Chitosan-Based Microparticles Containing Ascorbic Acid and Nicotinamide

Vitamins are widely found in nature, for example, in plants and fruits. Ascorbic acid and nicotinamide are examples of these compounds that have potent antioxidant properties, besides stimulating collagen production and depigmenting properties that protect the skin from premature aging. To overcome the skin barrier and reduce the instability of antioxidant compounds, alternative systems have been developed to facilitate the delivery of antioxidants, making them efficiently available to the tissue for an extended time without causing damage or toxicity. The objective of this study was to obtain chitosan biodegradable microparticles containing ascorbic acid and nicotinamide for topical delivery. The microparticles were obtained by spray drying and characterized chemically by means of scanning electron microscopy, infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, and differential exploratory calorimetry. The drugs were successfully encapsulated and the microparticles showed positive zeta potential. In vitro release assays showed a sustained release profile. The evaluation of ex vivo skin permeation and retention demonstrated low permeation and adequate retention of the compounds in the epidermis/dermis, suggesting the efficient delivery from the obtained microparticles. Antibacterial assays have shown that microparticles can inhibit the growth of microorganisms in a time- and dose-dependent manner, corroborating their use in cosmetic products for application on the skin.

Emerging trends of nanotechnology in advanced cosmetics

The cosmetic industry is dynamic and ever-evolving. Especially with the introduction and incorporation of nanotechnology-based approaches into cosmetics for evincing novel formulations that confers aesthetic as well as therapeutic benefits. Nanocosmetics acts via numerous delivery mechanisms which involves lipid nanocarrier systems, polymeric or metallic nanoparticles, nanocapsules, dendrimers, nanosponges,etc. Each of these, have particular characteristic properties, which facilitates increased drug loading, enhanced absorption, better cosmetic efficacy, and many more. This article discusses the different classes of nanotechnology-based cosmetics and the nanomaterials used for their formulation, followed by outlining the categories of nanocosmetics and the scope of their utility pertaining to skin, hair, nail, lip, and/or dental care and protection thereof. This review also highlights and discusses about the key drivers of the cosmetic industry and the impending need of corroborating a healthy regulatory framework, refocusing attention towards consumer needs and trends, inculcating sustainable techniques and tenets of green ecological principles, and lastly making strides in nano-technological advancements which will further propel the growth of the cosmetic industry.

Development of Niacinamide/Ferulic Acid-Loaded Multiple Emulsion and Its In Vitro/In Vivo Investigation as a Cosmeceutical Product

Objective

Multiple emulsions have the ability to incorporate both lipophilic and hydrophilic actives in the same preparation and facilitate permeation of active ingredients through skin. The current study was aimed at formulating niacinamide/ferulic acid-loaded stable multiple emulsion (MNF) and its in vitro/in vivo characterization as a cosmeceutical product.

Methods

Both the compounds were evaluated for their radical scavenging potential by the DPPH method and FTIR analysis. Then, placebo and active formulations were prepared using a double emulsification method and were investigated for stability testing (changes in color, odor, and liquefaction on centrifugation, pH, and globule size) for a period of three months. Afterwards, MNF was investigated for in vitro sun protection factor, rheological studies, entrapment efficiency, zeta potential, zeta size, and ex vivo permeation. Moreover, after ensuring the hypoallergenicity and safety, it was also checked for its cosmeceutical effects on human skin using noninvasive biophysical probes in comparison with placebo.

Results

Results demonstrated that MNF showed a non-Newtonian behavior rheologically and both MNF and placebo were stable at different storage conditions. Entrapment efficiency, zeta potential, and zeta size were 93.3%, -5.88 mV, and 0.173 μm, respectively. Moreover, melanin, sebum, and skin erythema were significantly reduced while skin elasticity and hydration were improved.

Conclusion

It is evident that niacinamide and ferulic acid can be successfully incorporated in a stable multiple emulsion which has potent cosmeceutical effects on human skin.

Sonophoresis with ultrasound-responsive liquid-core nuclei for transdermal drug delivery

BACKGROUND

Sonophoresis can increase the delivery efficiency of various drugs into the skin. A recent advance in sonophoresis is the use of ultrasound-responsive liquid-core nuclei (URLN) to increase the probability of cavitation. In this study, we developed a URLN and ultrasound device, and demonstrated its effectiveness through in vitro and clinical tests.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Three types of experiments were designed to evaluate the efficiency of sonophoresis with URLN. First, a Franz diffusion cell with cosmetic ingredients was used to analyze quantitatively the amount of drug delivered to the porcine skin. Second, after the application of sonophoresis with URLN, the porcine skin surface was examined using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) to see the changes in morphology. Finally, a clinical test was performed to verify the utility of sonophoresis with URLN.

RESULTS

The results indicate that sonophoresis with URLN can increase the amount of compound delivered by approximately 11.9-fold over 6 h for niacinamide and by 7.33-fold over 6 h for adenosine. In addition, we observed approximately 20-30 μm sized pores on porcine skin in SEM images. In clinical testing, the application of sonophoresis with cosmetics containing URLN for 3 min improved the efficiency of transdermal drug delivery by 1.9-fold, the depth of absorption by 2.0-fold, and the speed of absorption by 2.0-fold at 30 min after application.

CONCLUSION

We expect that sonophoresis with specialized URLN in transdermal drug delivery could be used widely for various skin-related applications.

N-Succinyl-S-Farnesyl-L-Cysteine (SFC): A Novel Isoprenylcysteine Analog with In Vitro Anti-Inflammatory Activity and Clinical Skin Protecting Properties

Over the past 15 years, small molecule isoprenylcysteine (IPC) analogs have been identified as a potential new class of topical anti-inflammatories. Clinical studies have demonstrated that IPCs are both safe and effective in promoting healthy skin when applied topically. This work aims to demonstrate N-Succinyl-S-farnesyl-L-cysteine (SFC) as a novel IPC molecule that provides a broad spectrum of benefits for skin. Human promyelocytic cell line HL-60, human dermal microvascular endothelial cells (HDMECs), human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs), and normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) were exposed in culture to various inducers to trigger reactive oxygen species, cytokines, or collagenase production. A 49-subject randomized double-blind, vehicle-controlled, split face trial was performed with 1% SFC gel, or 5% niacinamide and vehicle applied for 12 weeks to evaluate anti-wrinkle and anti-aging endpoints. We demonstrated that SFC inhibited GPCR and TLR-induced pro-inflammatory cytokine release in NHEKs and HDMECs from several inflammatory inducers such as UVB, chemicals, cathelicidin, and bacteria. SFC successfully reduced GPCR-induced oxidation in differentiated neutrophils. Moreover, photoaging studies showed that SFC reduced UVA-induced collagenase (pro-MMP-1) production in HDFs. Clinical assessment of 1% SFC gel demonstrated improvement above the vehicle for wrinkle reduction, hydration, texture, and overall appearance of skin. N-Succinyl-S-farnesyl-L-cysteine (SFC) is a novel anti-inflammatory small molecule and is the first farnesyl-cysteine IPC shown to clinically improve appearance and signs of aging, while also having the potential to ameliorate inflammatory skin disorders.

Health Effects of Dyes, Minerals, and Vitamins Used in Cosmetics

The average woman uses 12 different cosmetic products every day, but they can have a negative effect on human health. Therefore, in recent years, consumer preferences have changed towards buying natural or ecological cosmetics free from preservatives or unnecessary dyes. The aim of this work is to discuss the use of dyes, minerals, and vitamins in cosmetics in terms of their safety and impact on human health. These substances are very important in the cosmetics industry. Most of them are of natural origin. Some minerals used in the production of face masks or creams are recommended to work against inflammations such as ulcers and acne. Clay minerals have exceptional qualities, among others, low or no toxicity and high bio-compatibility. However, some of them may be harmful. For example, the safety of using talc has been widely debated in recent years. Cosmetic-grade talc cannot contain detectable fibrous asbestos minerals. Moreover, talc should not be applied to the skin when the epidermal barrier is missing or significantly disrupted. The use of talc in cosmetic products in the European Union is restricted. Vitamins are one of the most commonly used, biologically active, and easily accessible components in cosmetics. For example, provitamin B5 (D-panthenol) is a bioactive substance. In cosmetic preparations, it has a softening, repairing, and anti-inflammatory effect and is responsible for regulating sebum secretion. However, some vitamins may be harmful to human health. For example, the use of skin-whitening cosmetics containing vitamin C causes allergic contact dermatitis, whereas the most common adverse effect of topical use of vitamin A is skin irritation, erythema, and peeling. Dyes, which are used to color cosmetics, do not improve the condition of the skin, hair, or nails. Some of them may be harmful to human health. For example, the dye CI 60730 (Acid Violet 43) is prohibited for use in eye products and cosmetics that have contact with mucous membranes. In conclusion, some of the popular cosmetic ingredients discussed in this paper may exert a negative influence on human health, and many of these harmful effects have been discovered recently. Therefore, there is a need for further studies on the possible negative effects of dyes, minerals, and vitamins used in cosmetic products.

Nicotinamide Prevents UVB- and Oxidative Stress-Induced Photoaging in Human Primary Keratinocytes

Nicotinamide (NAM), a NAD⁺ precursor, is known for its benefits to skin health. Under standard culture conditions, NAM delays the differentiation and enhances the proliferation of human primary keratinocytes (HPKs), leading to the maintenance of stem cells. Here, we investigated the effects of NAM on photoaging in 2D HPK cultures and 3D organotypic epidermal models. In both models, we found that UVB irradiation and hydrogen peroxide induced HPK premature terminal differentiation and senescence. In 3D organotypics, the phenotype was characterized by a thickening of the granular layer expressing filaggrin and loricrin, but thinning of the epidermis overall. NAM limited premature differentiation and ameliorated senescence, as evidenced by the maintenance of lamin B1 levels in both models, with decreased lipofuscin staining and reduced IL-6/IL-8 secretion in 3D models, compared to UVB-only controls. In addition, DNA damage observed after irradiation was accompanied by a decline in energy metabolism, while both effects were partially prevented by NAM. Our data thus highlight the protective effects of NAM against photoaging and oxidative stress in the human epidermis, and pinpoint DNA repair and energy metabolism as crucial underlying mechanisms.

Niacinamide Down-Regulates the Expression of DKK-1 and Protects Cells from Oxidative Stress in Cultured Human Dermal Papilla Cells

Purpose

An increasing number of people are suffering from hair loss disorders. Niacinamide has long been used as an active ingredient for anti-hair loss preparations but the exact mechanism has not been clearly elucidated yet. The effects of niacinamide were investigated in cultured human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs).

Methods

To investigate the anti-hair loss effect of niacinamide and its molecular mechanisms, Western blot analysis, ELISA, quantitative RT-PCR and immunocytochemistry were performed. To study the protective effects of niacinamide against H₂O₂-induced oxidative stress, ROS generation and cytotoxicity were evaluated by DCF-DA assay and LDH release assay, respectively. Minoxidil was used as a positive control.

Results

Niacinamide decreased the protein expression level of DKK-1 which promotes regression of hair follicles by inducing catagen. The protein expression levels of cell senescence markers, p21 (CDKN1A) and p16 (CDKN2A) which are related to cell cycle arrest, were decreased. The expression of versican was increased by niacinamide treatment in cultured hDPCs. We have found that niacinamide decreased the H₂O₂-induced intracellular ROS production in cultured hDPCs. Moreover, niacinamide decreased the protein expression levels of H₂O₂-induced p21 and p16 and diminished the secretion of H₂O₂-induced DKK-1.

Conclusion

Our data demonstrate that niacinamide could enhance hair growth by preventing oxidative stress-induced cell senescence and premature catagen entry of hair follicles.

Effects of Carissa carandas Linn. Fruit, Pulp, Leaf, and Seed on Oxidation, Inflammation, Tyrosinase, Matrix Metalloproteinase, Elastase, and Hyaluronidase Inhibition

In this study, the potential of Carissa carandas Linn. as a natural anti-aging, antioxidant, and skin whitening agent was studied. Various parts of C. carandas, including fruit, leaf, seed, and pulp were sequentially extracted by maceration using n-hexane, ethyl acetate, and ethanol, respectively. High-performance liquid chromatography, Folin–Ciocalteu, and Dowd method were used to investigate their chemical compositions. The inhibitory activities of oxidation process, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase were analyzed. Cytotoxicity was determined by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5 diphenyl tetrazolium bromide assay in a human epidermal keratinocyte line (HaCaT). The results exhibited that ethyl acetate could extract the most ursolic acid from C. carandas, while ethanol could extract the most phenolics and flavonoids. The leaf extract had the highest content of ursolic acid, phenolics, and flavonoids. The leaf extracted with ethyl acetate (AL) had the highest ursolic acid content (411.8 mg/g extract) and inhibited MMP-1, NF-kappa B, and tyrosinase activity the most. Ursolic acid has been proposed as a key component in these biological activities. Although several C. carandas extracts are beneficial to human skin, AL has been proposed for use in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals due to its superior anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammation, and whitening properties.

Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation

Vitamin B3 (nicotinic acid, niacin) deficiency causes the systemic disease pellagra, which leads to dermatitis, diarrhea, dementia, and possibly death depending on its severity and duration. Vitamin B3 is used in the synthesis of the NAD+ family of coenzymes, contributing to cellular energy metabolism and defense systems. Although nicotinamide (niacinamide) is primarily used as a nutritional supplement for vitamin B3, its pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical uses have been extensively explored. In this review, we discuss the biological activities and cosmeceutical properties of nicotinamide in consideration of its metabolic pathways. Supplementation of nicotinamide restores cellular NAD+ pool and mitochondrial energetics, attenuates oxidative stress and inflammatory response, enhances extracellular matrix and skin barrier, and inhibits the pigmentation process in the skin. Topical treatment of nicotinamide, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, reduces the progression of skin aging and hyperpigmentation in clinical trials. Topically applied nicotinamide is well tolerated by the skin. Currently, there is no convincing evidence that nicotinamide has specific molecular targets for controlling skin aging and pigmentation. This substance is presumed to contribute to maintaining skin homeostasis by regulating the redox status of cells along with various metabolites produced from it. Thus, it is suggested that nicotinamide will be useful as a cosmeceutical ingredient to attenuate skin aging and hyperpigmentation, especially in the elderly or patients with reduced NAD+ pool in the skin due to internal or external stressors.

The role of artificial intelligence in cosmetic dermatology-Current, upcoming, and future trends

Within the field of cosmetic dermatology, several promising developments utilize artificial intelligence to better patient care. While many new treatments in cosmetic dermatology feature components of artificial intelligence, there is a knowledge gap within the field regarding the current and developing products featuring AI. We aim to highlight current and developing applications of artificial intelligence in cosmetic dermatology and provide insight into future modalities in this field. Methods include literature review, including peer-reviewed journal articles as well as product websites. In an age of medical and technological advancement, the utility of artificial intelligence models continues to grow.There are many new facets of artificial intelligence in cosmetic dermatology, marketed to both the consumer and the physician. With the development of customizable skin care, augmented reality applications, and at-home skin analysis tools, patients are empowered to be the masters of their cosmetic care. Artificial intelligence is utilized by physicians in new ways in their practices, with the advent of models for prediction of clinical outcome to treatments and tools for in-depth analysis of the patient's skin. Further research is required in the development of automated energy-based treatment devices and robotic-assisted treatments. Models for AI in cosmetic dermatology serve to increase patient involvement in their skin care decisions and have the ability to enhance the patient-physician experience. Dermatologists should be well-informed of the emerging technologies to better educate patients and enhance their clinical practice.

Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review

Over-the-counter antiaging formulations aim to prevent or minimize the signs of aging skin, and to maintain the benefits obtained from different cosmetic procedures. Even though a huge selection of such products is available on the market, evidence and good clinical practice of the data supporting their use are oftentimes lacking. In this systematic review, the authors reviewed scientific data available in the published literature on the most common ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics, with a particular focus on in vivo studies.

Innovative Skin Product Emulsions with Enhanced Antioxidant, Antimicrobial and UV Protection Properties Containing Nanoparticles of Pure and Modified Chitosan with Encapsulated Fresh Pomegranate Juice

In the present study, a chitosan (CS) derivative with the 2-(Methacryloyloxy)ethyl]dimethyl-(3-sulfopropyl)ammonium hydroxide (SDAEM) zwitterionic monomer was prepared through chemical modification. The successful synthesis of CS-SDAEM was confirmed by Fourier-transform Infrared (FTIR) and Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (¹H-NMR) spectroscopies. Its crystallinity was studied by X-ray Diffraction (XRD), while in vitro cytotoxicity and cell viability assays established its biocompatibility. Filtered fresh pomegranate juice (PJ) was loaded in nanoparticles of neat CS and its derivative via ionic gelation method. Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) revealed nanoparticles sizes varying between 426 nm and 4.5 μm, indicating a size-dependence on the polymer concentration used during encapsulation. High-performance liquid chromatography coupled with photodiode array and electrospray ionization mass spectrometry detection (LC-PDA-ESI/MS) revealed that PJ active compounds were successfully and in sufficient amounts encapsulated in the nanoparticles interior, whereas XRD indicated a crystalline structure alteration after nanoencapsulation. The resulted PJ-loaded nanoparticles were further utilized for the preparation of innovative O/W cosmetic emulsions. All produced emulsions exhibited good pH and viscosity stability for up to 90 days, while the sun protection factor (SPF) was enhanced due to the presence of the PJ. Enhanced antioxidant and antimicrobial properties due to the phenolic compounds of PJ were also observed.

Role of Nicotinamide in Genomic Stability and Skin Cancer Chemoprevention

Nicotinamide (NAM) is an amide form of vitamin B3 and the precursor of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+), an essential co-enzyme of redox reactions for adenosine triphosphate (ATP) production and for other metabolic processes. As NAD+ status is critical in maintaining cellular energy, vitamin B3 deficiency mainly affects tissues that need high cellular energy causing pellagra and skin sun sensitivity. In animal models, NAD+ deficiency leads to UV sensitivity of the skin, impairs DNA damage response, and increases genomic instability and cancer incidence. Furthermore, NAD+ depletion is associated with human skin aging and cancer. NAM prevents the UV-induced ATP depletion boosting cellular energy and enhances DNA repair activity in vitro and in vivo. Moreover, NAM reduces skin cancer incidence and prevents the immune-suppressive effects of UV in mice. Thus, NAM is involved in the maintenance of genomic stability and may have beneficial effects against skin aging changes and tumor development. Clinical studies showed that topical use of NAM reduces cutaneous aging. Furthermore, oral NAM administration reduces the level of UV-mediated immunosuppression and lowers the rate of non-melanoma skin cancers in high-risk patients. Therefore, NAM replenishment strategy may be a promising approach for skin cancer chemoprevention.

A novel multifunctional skin care formulation with a unique blend of antipollution, brightening and antiaging active complexes

BACKGROUND

High demand on anti-aging skin care encourage the improvement and development of more personalized formulations with additional benefits for general skin health and age associated skin signs. The skin aging physical and biological phenotypes manifest differently between diverse ethnic populations. A highly polluted environment can be viewed as an extrinsic factor accelerating the skin aging process.

AIM

To develop a unique formula with active complexes, having multifunctional effects for anti-pollution, brightening and anti-aging/barrier strengthening purposes with confirmed activities in vitro and ex vivo skin models, suitable for polluted skin.

METHODS

In vitro culture model with primary human skin cells, ex vivo studies with full-thickness human skin, melanocyte 3D coculture model, gene expression of epidermal and dermal genes, anti-glycation, proteasomal activity, melanin, and cytokine assays.

RESULTS

In vitro and ex vivo studies clearly demonstrated that diglucosyl gallic acid (active A) and the formulation complex inhibited pollution mediated MMP1 protein, CYP1A1 gene expression, and IL-6 protein secretion, while caprylic/capric triglyceride, diacetyl boldine (active B) had anti-melanogenic effect in in vitro primary melanocyte monoculture and 3D spheroid model. Another active compound, acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D), significantly upregulated epidermal barrier genes (Aquaporin 3 [AQP3], Filaggrin [FLG], caspase 14, and keratin 10) in human primary keratinocytes. Interestingly, both acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D) and niacinamide (active C) improved dermal gene expression (fibrillin-1, Collagen type 1 alpha 1, Decorin, Lysyl oxidase-like 1) and, moreover, had significant anti-glycant and proteasomal promoter activity in human primary fibroblasts.

CONCLUSION

Considering consumers need in heavily polluted areas, we developed a multipurpose formulation comprised of unique active complexes toward pollution, pollution induced inflammation, skin brightening, and antiaging concerns with beneficial results demonstrated by in vitro and ex vivo studies.

Neuroendocrine Aspects of Skin Aging

Skin aging is accompanied by a gradual loss of function, physiological integrity and the ability to cope with internal and external stressors. This is secondary to a combination of complex biological processes influenced by constitutive and environmental factors or by local and systemic pathologies. Skin aging and its phenotypic presentation are dependent on constitutive (genetic) and systemic factors. It can be accelerated by environmental stressors, such as ultraviolet radiation, pollutants and microbial insults. The skin’s functions and its abilities to cope with external stressors are regulated by the cutaneous neuroendocrine systems encompassing the regulated and coordinated production of neuropeptides, neurohormones, neurotransmitters and hormones, including steroids and secosteroids. These will induce/stimulate downstream signaling through activation of corresponding receptors. These pathways and corresponding coordinated responses to the stressors decay with age or undergo pathological malfunctions. This affects the overall skin phenotype and epidermal, dermal, hypodermal and adnexal functions. We propose that skin aging can be attenuated or its phenotypic presentation reversed by the topical use of selected factors with local neurohormonal activities targeting specific receptors or enzymes. Some of our favorite factors include melatonin and its metabolites, noncalcemic secosteroids and lumisterol derivatives, because of their low toxicity and their desirable local phenotypic effects.

Use of formulations for sensitive skin improves the visible signs of aging, including wrinkle size and elasticity

Background: Sensitive skin affects an increasingly large proportion of the population and is less tolerant to frequent and prolonged use of cosmetics. This study investigates the antiaging effects of a skin care system developed for use on sensitive skin. Methods: A total of 30 healthy Caucasian females, aged 32-72, were enrolled in this double-blind randomized placebo-controlled split-face study. A routine consisting of twice daily topical applications of the test cleanser and test moisturizer or placebo or positive control products was followed for 28 days, with parameters measured at baseline and at 7-day intervals. Objective skin assessments for hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface topography, elasticity and safety assessment were conducted. Results: Wrinkle surface, length and depth significantly improved by 34.8±4.7% (P<0.001), 19.0±3.2% (P<0.05) and 24.3±3.5% (P<0.05), respectively, after 28 days of skin care treatment with the test cleanser and test moisturizer. R2 (gross elasticity), R5 (net elasticity) and R7 (biological elasticity) significantly increased by 32.8±6.5% (P<0.001), 47.3±8.6% (P<0.001) and 50.6±5.1% (P<0.001), respectively, while R6 (viscoelastic portion) significantly decreased by 33.4±4.6% (P<0.001) after 28 days. Skin hydration was also found to increase significantly after 28 days by 42.2±8.5% (P<0.01), but there was no change in TEWL. No adverse events were reported. Conclusions: A novel skin care routine developed for use on sensitive skin significantly improves the signs of aging including hydration, wrinkle size and elasticity without significant adverse effects.

A Novel Peptide, Nicotinyl⁻Isoleucine⁻Valine⁻Histidine (NA⁻IVH), Promotes Antioxidant Gene Expression and Wound Healing in HaCaT Cells

Nicotinamide (NA), a water-soluble vitamin B₃, has been shown to exert cellular-protective effects against reactive oxygen species (ROS). In order to improve the cellular-protective effects of NA, we synthesized a novel compound, nicotinyl–isoleucine–valine–histidine (NA–IVH), by combining NA with jellyfish peptides’ IVH. In the present study, we examined the cellular-protective effects of the novel synthetic nicotinyl-peptide, NA–IVH. We found that NA–IVH enhances the radical scavenging activity with a robust increase of the nuclear factor (erythroid-derived 2)-like factor (Nrf2) expression in human HaCaT keratinocytes. In addition, NA–IVH protected the cells from hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂)-induced cell death. Interestingly, NA–IVH exhibited an improved wound-healing effect in a high glucose condition, possibly through the regulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Collectively, our results imply that a novel nicotinyl-peptide, NA–IVH, has a wound-healing effect in a hyperglycemic condition, possibly by modulating excessive ROS.

Use of nicotinamide in dermatology

Nicotinamide (niacinamide) is the water-soluble, amide form of vitamin B3. We review the evidence underlying the use of nicotinamide for various dermatological indications, including nonmelanoma cancer prophylaxis, blistering disorders, acne vulgaris and cosmetic indications, and speculate upon its future role in dermatological practice.

In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness

OBJECTIVE

Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding Cmap analysis. We found that A-A-A increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal matrix metalloprotease (MMP) expression and relieved fibroblast stiffness through reduction of the fibroblast stiffness marker F-actin. Dermal absorption studies showed successful delivery to both the epidermal and dermal regions, and in-use trial demonstrated that 1% A-A-A was well tolerated. In this study, the aim was to investigate whether A-A-A could stimulate the synthesis of extracellular matrix supporting proteins in vivo and thereby improving the viscoelastic properties of human skin by conducting a dual histological and biophysical clinical study.

METHOD

Two separate double-blind vehicle-controlled in vivo studies were conducted using a 1% A-A-A containing oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion. In the histological study, 16 female volunteers (>55 years of age) exhibiting photodamaged skin on their forearm were included, investigating the effect of a 12-day treatment of A-A-A on collagen IV (COLIV) and fibrillin-1. In a subsequent pilot study, 0.1% retinol was used for comparison to A-A-A (1%). The biomechanical properties of the skin were assessed in a panel of 16 women (>45 years of age) using the standard Cutometer MPA580 after topical application of the test products for 28 days. The use of multiple suction enabled the assessment of F4, an area parameter specifically representing skin firmness.

RESULTS

Twelve-day topical application of 1% A-A-A significantly increased COLIV and fibrillin with 13% and 6%, respectively, compared to vehicle. 1% A-A-A and 0.1% retinol were found to significantly reduce F4 after 28 days of treatment by 15.8% and 14.7%, respectively, in the pilot Cutometer study. No significant difference was found between retinol and A-A-A. However, only A-A-A exhibited a significant effect vs. vehicle on skin firmness which indicated the incremental benefit of A-A-A as a skin-firming active ingredient.

CONCLUSION

In this study, we showed the in vivo efficacy of 1% A-A-A both on a protein level (fibrillin and collagen IV) and on a clinical end point, specifically skin firmness, providing proof that, acetyl aspartic acid has a strong potential as an anti-ageing 'cosmeceutical' ingredient answering the needs of our key consumer base.

An antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids and vitamins improves the biomechanical parameters of facial skin

Background

The demand for antiaging products has dramatically increased in recent years, driven by an aging population seeking to maintain the appearance of youth. This study investigates the effects of an antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) in conjunction with vitamins B₃, C, and E on the biomechanical parameters of facial skin.

Methods

Fifty two volunteers followed an antiaging skin care regimen comprising of cleanser, eye cream, day moisturizer, and night moisturizer for 21 days. Wrinkle depth (R_y) and skin roughness (R_a) were measured by skin surface profilometry of the crow’s feet area, and skin elasticity parameters R2 (gross elasticity), R5 (net elasticity), R6 (viscoelastic portion), and R7 (recovery after deformation) were determined for facial skin by cutometer, preapplication and after 7, 14, and 21 days. Volunteers also completed a self-assessment questionnaire.

Results

Compared to baseline, R_y and R_a significantly improved by 32.5% (P<0.0001) and 42.9% (P<0.0001), respectively, after 21 days of antiaging skin care treatment. These results were observed by the volunteers with 9 out of 10 discerning an improvement in skin texture and smoothness. Compared to baseline, R2 and R5 significantly increased by 15.2% (P<0.0001) and 12.5% (P=0.0449), respectively, while R6 significantly decreased by 17.7% (P<0.0001) after 21 days. R7 increased by 9.7% after 21 days compared to baseline but this was not significant over this time period.

Conclusion

An antiaging skin care system containing AHAs and vitamins significantly improves the biomechanical parameters of the skin including wrinkles and skin texture, as well as elasticity without significant adverse effects.

Evaluation of nicotinamide microemulsion on the skin penetration enhancement

This study purposed to evaluate a microemulsion containing nicotinamide for its characteristics, stability, and skin penetration and retention comparing with a solution of nicotinamide in 2:1 mixture of water and isopropyl alcohol (IPA). The microemulsion system was composed of 1:1 mixture of Span80 and Tween80 as a surfactant mixture, isopropyl palmitate (IPP) as an oil phase, and 2:1 mixture of water and IPA as an aqueous phase. Nicotinamide microemulsion was prepared by dissolving the active in the aqueous phase before simply mixing with the other components. It was determined for its characteristics and stability under various conditions. The skin penetration and retention studies of nicotinamide microemulsion and solution were performed by modified Franz diffusion cells, using newborn pig skin as the membrane. The results showed that nicotinamide microemulsion could be obtained as clear yellowish liquid, was water-in-oil (w/o) type, possessed Newtonian flow, and exhibited physicochemical stability when kept at 4 °C and room temperature (≈30 ± 2 °C) during 3 months. From the skin penetration data, the microemulsion could enhance the skin penetration of nicotinamide comparing with the solution. Additionally, nicotinamide microemulsion could provide much higher amount of skin retention than that of skin penetration, resulting in suitability for a cosmeceutical product.