Less-known botanical cosmeceuticals

Integrating Skincare into Medical Practice

The integration of skincare into medical practice can enhance patient care. Understanding the anatomy and physiology of the skin is the foundation for effective skincare interventions. Genetic and inflammatory conditions play a significant role in aesthetic skin physiology. There are key active ingredients that are pivotal in addressing various skin concerns. Sunscreens provide crucial protection against UV radiation, while pigment control agents such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, and arbutin target the melanin pathway. Exfoliating agents and skin turnover enhancers such as retinoids and hydroxy acids promote skin renewal and rejuvenation. In addition, ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, niacinamide, antioxidants, peptides, and botanicals contribute to improving skin quality. Adding skincare to medical practice requires careful product selection, patient education, and marketing strategies.

Exploring the Therapeutic Potential of Bromelain: Applications, Benefits, and Mechanisms

Bromelain is a mixture of proteolytic enzymes primarily extracted from the fruit and stem of the pineapple plant (Ananas comosus). It has a long history of traditional medicinal use in various cultures, particularly in Central and South America, where pineapple is native. This systematic review will delve into the history, structure, chemical properties, and medical indications of bromelain. Bromelain was first isolated and described in the late 19th century by researchers in Europe, who identified its proteolytic properties. Since then, bromelain has gained recognition in both traditional and modern medicine for its potential therapeutic effects.

Punica granatum L. (Pomegranate) Extracts and Their Effects on Healthy and Diseased Skin

The aim of this review is to provide a summary of the botany, phytochemistry and dermatological effects of Punica granatum (PG), with special emphasis on therapeutic mechanisms in various skin conditions. PG peel contains the highest levels of chemical compounds. Due to the high abundance of polyphenolic compounds, including phenolic acids, anthocyanins and flavonoids, exhibiting strong antioxidant properties, PG peel possesses significant health-promoting effects. Up until now, different parts of PG in the form of various extracts, fixed seed oil or individual active compounds have been investigated for various effects on skin conditions in in vitro and in vivo studies, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, chemoprotective and antiaging effects, as well as positive effects on striae distensae, skin repair mechanisms, erythema, pigmentation and psoriasis. Therefore, formulations containing PG active compounds have been used for skincare of diseased and healthy skin. Only a few effects have been confirmed on human subjects. Based on encouraging results obtained in in vitro and animal studies about the numerous substantial dermatological effects of PG active compounds, future perspectives should incorporate more in vivo investigations in human volunteers. This approach can aid in identifying the optimal concentrations and formulations that would be most efficacious in addressing specific skin conditions.

Recent Advances in the Management of Rosacea through Natural Compounds

Rosacea is a chronic skin disorder that affects more than 5% of the world's population, with the number increasing every year. Moreover, studies show that one-third of those suffering from rosacea report a degree of depression and are less compliant with treatment. Despite being the subject of prolonged studies, the pathogenesis of rosacea remains controversial and elusive. Since most medications used for the management of this pathology have side effects or simply do not yield the necessary results, many patients lose trust in the treatment and drop it altogether. Thus, dermato-cosmetic products with natural ingredients are gaining more and more notoriety in front of synthetic ones, due to the multiple benefits and the reduced number and intensity of side effects. This review is a comprehensive up-to-date report of studies that managed to prove the beneficial effects of different botanicals that may be useful in the short and long-term management of rosacea-affected skin. Based on recent preclinical and clinical studies, this review describes the mechanisms of action of a large array of phytochemicals responsible for alleviating the clinical symptomatology of the disease. This is useful in further aiding and better comprehending the way plant-based products may help in managing this complex condition, paving the way for research in this area of study.

A botanical reference set illustrating a weight of evidence approach for skin sensitization risk assessment

Recent years have seen an increase in the use of botanicals and natural substances (BNS) in consumer products such as cosmetics and household care products. Most work conducted to date to assess botanicals for human safety has focused their use as dietary supplements and thus on systemic toxicity. However, the induction of skin sensitization is a possible adverse effect of natural products in particular those that come into skin contact, especially for cosmetics that remain on the skin and are not rinsed off following use. Assessments of BNS ingredients are often challenging for a number of reasons: the BNS are complex mixtures that can be of mostly unknown composition; the composition can be highly variable even within the same plant species and dependent on how processed; the physical form of the BNS raw material can vary from a highly concentrated powdered extract to a liquid extract containing only a small percentage of the BNS; testing of the BNS raw materials in New Approach Methods (NAM) has uncertainty as these methods are often not developed or validated for complex mixtures. In this study, a reference set of 14 selected BNS which span the range of skin sensitization potential was complied. These data were used in a Weight of Evidence (WoE) approach to evaluate their skin sensitization potential with each of the data rich BNS being classified as either having strong evidence of inducing skin sensitization based on human topical use history, animal data, clinical data, composition data and NAM data, or having some but more limited (weak) evidence of inducing skin sensitization, or having strong evidence of no skin sensitization potential. When available data have sufficient potency related information, sensitization potency assessment is also provided based on WoE, classifying these BNS as either strong, moderate, or weak sensitizers, or non-sensitizers. An outline for a BNS skin sensitization risk assessment framework is proposed starting with exposure-based waiving and WoE assessment for higher exposures. In addition to demonstrating the application of the WoE approach, the reference set presented here provides a set of 'data rich' botanicals which cover a range of sensitization potencies that could be used for evaluating existing test methods or aid in the development of new predictive models for skin sensitization.

Emerging Insights into the Applicability of Essential Oils in the Management of Acne Vulgaris

The occurrence of pustules, comedones, nodules, and cysts defines acne vulgaris, a prevalent chronic inflammatory dermatological condition. In the past few decades, essential oils extracted from varied natural sources have acquired recognition due to their potential medicinal applications in acne therapy. However, there is not yet sufficient medical data to fully characterize this interaction. Multiple factors contribute to the development of acne vulgaris, including excessive sebaceous production, inflammatory processes, hyperkeratinization, and infection with Cutibacterium acnes. Essential oils, including oregano, lavender, lemon grass, myrtle, lemon, thyme, eucalyptus, rosemary, and tea tree, have been found to possess anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties, which may target the multifactorial causes of acne. Analytical methods for determining antioxidant potential (i.e., total phenolic content, diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl free radical scavenging assay, reducing power assay, ferrous ion chelating activity, thiobarbituric acid reactive species assay, β-carotene bleaching assay, etc.) are essential for the evaluation of these essential oils, and their method optimization is crucial. Further studies could include the development of novel acne treatments incorporating essential oils and an assessment of their efficacy in large clinical trials. In addition, further research is necessary to ascertain the mechanisms of action of essential oils and their optimal doses and safety profiles for optimal implementation in the management of acne vulgaris.

Medicinal Plants of the Flora of Kazakhstan Used in the Treatment of Skin Diseases

The skin shows the physiological condition of the body's organs and systems that prevent infections and physical damage. Throughout the ages, in folk medicine, phytotherapy was considered a primary form of treatment in all countries, including Kazakhstan, due to the abundance and availability of plant-based remedies. This paper discusses several medicinal plants that are traditionally used in the treatment of skin diseases in the Republic of Kazakhstan. The chemical composition of these plants was analyzed, with a particular focus on the biologically active basic compounds responsible for their therapeutic efficiency in treating skin ailments.

Innovations in Skin and Soft Tissue Aging-A Systematic Literature Review and Market Analysis of Therapeutics and Associated Outcomes

PURPOSE

Skin and soft tissue aging has been an important topic of discussion among plastic surgeons and their patients. While botulinum toxin, facial fillers, chemical peels, and surgical lifts preside as the mainstay of treatment to restore appearance of youth, emergent technologies, such as CRISPR-Cas9, proteostasis, flap biology, and stem cell therapies, have gained traction in addressing the aging process of skin and soft tissue. Several studies have introduced these advancements, but it remains unclear how safe and effective these therapeutics are in facial rejuvenation, and how they may fit in the existent treatment workflow for soft tissue aging.

MATERIALS/METHODS

A systematic literature review was conducted to identify and assess therapeutics utilized in addressing skin and soft tissue aging. Variables collected included year of publication, journal, article title, organization of study, patient sample, treatment modality, associated outcomes. In addition, we performed a market analysis of companies involved in promoting technologies and therapeutics within this space. PitchBook (Seattle, WA), a public market database, was utilized to classify companies, and record the amount of venture capital funding allocated to these categories.

RESULTS

Initial review yielded four hundred and two papers. Of these, thirty-five were extracted after applying inclusion and exclusion criteria. Though previous literature regards CRISPR-Cas9 technology as the most favorable anti-aging innovation, after reviewing the current literature, stem cell therapies utilizing recipient chimerism appeared to be the superior skin anti-aging technique when accounting for possible disadvantages of various techniques. The psychosocial and cosmetic outcomes from using cell therapy to modulate allograft survival and tolerance may confer more long-term proposed benefits than the technologies in CRISPR-Cas9, flap biology innovations, and autologous platelet-rich plasma use. Market analysis yielded a total of 87 companies, which promoted innovations in technology, biotechnology, biopharmaceuticals, cell-based therapies, and genetic therapy.

CONCLUSION

This review provides physicians and patients with relevant, usable information regarding how therapeutics can impact treatment regimen for facial aesthetics and skin rejuvenation. Furthermore, the goal of this research is to elucidate the varying therapeutics to restore appearance of youth, present associated outcomes, and in doing so, present plastic surgeons and their colleagues with greater insight on the role of these therapeutics and technologies in clinical practice. Future studies can further assess the safety and efficacy of these innovations and discuss how these may fit within surgical plans among patients seeking rejuvenation procedures.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE III

This journal requires that authors assign a level of evidence to each article. For a full description of these Evidence-Based Medicine ratings, please refer to the Table of Contents or the online Instructions to Authors www.springer.com/00266 .

Preparation of Nano/Microcapsules of Ozonated Olive Oil in Hyaluronan Matrix and Analysis of Physicochemical and Microbiological (Biological) Properties of the Obtained Biocomposite

Hydrogels, based on natural polymers, such as hyaluronic acid, are gaining an increasing popularity because of their biological activity. The antibacterial effect of ozone is widely known and used, but the instability the gas causes, severely limits its application. Ozone entrapment in olive oil by its reaction with an unsaturated bond, allows for the formation of stable, therapeutically active ozone derivatives. In this study, we obtained an innovative hydrogel, based on hyaluronic acid containing micro/nanocapsules of ozonated olive oil. By combination of the biocompatible polymer with a high regenerative capacity and biologically active ingredients, we obtained a hydrogel with regenerative properties and a very weak inhibitory effect against both bacterial commensal skin microbiota and pathogenic Candida-like yeasts. We assessed the stability and rheological properties of the gel, determined the morphology of the composite, using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and particle size by the dynamic light scattering (DLS) method. We also performed Attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared (FTIR-ATR) spectroscopy. The functional properties, including the antimicrobial potential were assessed by the microbiological analysis and in vitro testing on the HaCat human keratinocyte cell line. The studies proved that the obtained emulsions were rheologically stable, exhibited an antimicrobial effect and did not show cytotoxicity in the HaCat keratinocyte model.

Sustainable changes in beauty market trends focused on the perspective of safety in the post-coronavirus disease-19 period

BACKGROUND

In February 2020, WHO announced the outbreak of coronavirus disease-19 (COVID-19) in a global epidemic, and the COVID-19 vaccine has recently been developed and approved in many countries to release disease radio waves. Immediately distributed and used to control and control infections. During the COVID-19 pandemic, the world closed extensively in beauty and beauty services to control the spread of the virus.

OBJECTIVES

Therefore, this study for the first time that the perspective of safety in sustainable may be applied to the entire alteration of beauty industry market in the post-COVID-19 pandemic for literature review.

METHODS

A Narrative Review is proposed as a new report and commentary on the sustainable change of beauty market trends centered on safety due to the COVID-19 pandemic in December 2020. It was written with reference to keywords such as "Covid Beauty Market," "Covid Sustainable," "Covid clean beauty," and "Safety beauty." This study was performed by searching on PubMed, Google Scholar, Scopus, and ResearchGate. A total of 383 papers were retrieved, of which 36 were successfully included in this study.

RESULTS

Analysis of customers and markets in the beauty industry since COVID-19 was absolutely required at this time. Harmful and safe edible ingredients of clean beauty perspective should be compared and analyzed. In addition, importance of sustainability value from a clean beauty perspective should be considered.

CONCLUSION

There is an era in which the perspective of safety in sustainable may be applied to the entire beauty industry today. In addition, depending on the customer's perception change, beyond the ingredients, raw material procurement of products, manufacturing process, product experiments, etc. are part of clean beauty to minimize carbon emissions, water use, recycle product containers, and reduce waste.

Bioactive-Based Cosmeceuticals: An Update on Emerging Trends

Cosmetic-containing herbals are a cosmetic that has or is claimed to have medicinal properties, with bioactive ingredients purported to have medical benefits. There are no legal requirements to prove that these products live up to their claims. The name is a combination of “cosmetics” and “pharmaceuticals”. “Nutricosmetics” are related dietary supplements or food or beverage products with additives that are marketed as having medical benefits that affect appearance. Cosmetic-containing herbals are topical cosmetic–pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance the health and beauty of the skin. Cosmetic-containing herbals improve appearance by delivering essential nutrients to the skin. Several herbal products, such as cosmetic-containing herbals, are available. The present review highlights the use of natural products in cosmetic-containing herbals, as natural products have many curative effects as well as healing effects on skin and hair growth with minimal to no side effects. A brief description is given on such plants, their used parts, active ingredients, and the therapeutic properties associated with them. Mainly, the utilization of phytoconstituents as cosmetic-containing herbals in the care of skin and hair, such as dryness of skin, acne, eczema, inflammation of the skin, aging, hair growth, and dandruff, along with natural ingredients, such as for hair colorant, are explained in detail in the present review.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

In Vitro and Clinical Safety Assessment of the Multiple W/O/W Emulsion Based on the Active Ingredients from Rosmarinus officinalis L., Avena sativa L. and Linum usitatissimum L

The multiple W/O/W emulsion supplemented with the extracts of Rosmarinus officinalis L., Avena sativa L. and Linum usitatissimum L. was prepared in the study, its active compounds were determined by HPLC and its safety was evaluated in vitro by the means of reconstituted human skin model EpiDerm™ for the assessment of its irritation, phototoxicity and early skin inflammation effects and by the 48 h human skin patch test for its skin irritation and allergenic potential. The microbiological challenge test of W/O/W emulsion was performed to ensure its preservation efficiency. The results showed that the W/O/W emulsion loaded with self-preserving plant-based bio-actives had no irritant potential, was not phototoxic and did not provoke skin inflammation or sensitization and thus could be used as a safe base for cosmetic products. Furthermore, our results demonstrate that the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients of natural or organic origin could be easily performed using reconstructed human skin model EpiDerm™ similar to the well-defined chemicals used in the cosmetics industry.

Anti-Bacterial and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Toothpaste with Swiss Medicinal Herbs towards Patients Suffering from Gingivitis and Initial Stage of Periodontitis: from Clinical Efficacy to Mechanisms

Objective: To distinguish clinical effects and mechanisms of sodium monofluorophosphate plus xylitol and herbal extracts of Swiss medicinal plants (Chamomilla recutita, Arnica montana, Echinacea purpurea, and Salvia officinalis). Materials and Methods: A 2-month-long comparative clinical study of toothpaste containing 1450 ppm sodium monofluorophosphate and xylitol (control, 15 patients) and toothpaste additionally containing extracts of the medicinal herbs (experiment, 35 patients) was performed on patients with gingivitis and the initial stage of periodontitis. Clinical indices of gingivitis/periodontitis were quantified by Loe & Silness’s, CPITN, OHI-S, and PMA indexes. The pro-inflammatory and anti-inflammatory interleukins, nitrites/nitrates, total antioxidant activity, and bacterial pattern characteristic for gingivitis and periodontitis were quantified in the gingival crevicular fluid and plaque. In the in vitro tests, direct anti-bacterial effects, inhibition of catalase induction in Staphylococcus aureus, in response to oxidative burst of phagocytes, and intracellular bacterial killing were determined for the toothpastes, individual plant extracts, and their mixture. Results: Experimental toothpaste was more efficient clinically and in the diminishing of bacterial load specific for gingivitis/periodontitis. Although the control toothpaste exerted a direct moderate anti-bacterial effect, herbal extracts provided anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, direct, and indirect anti-bacterial actions through inhibition of bacterial defence against phagocytes. Conclusions: Chemical and plant-derived anti-bacterials to treat gingivitis and periodontitis at the initial stage should be used in combination amid their different mechanisms of action. Plant-derived actives for oral care could substitute toxic chemicals due to multiple modes of positive effects.

Ozonated Oils as Antimicrobial Systems in Topical Applications. Their Characterization, Current Applications, and Advances in Improved Delivery Techniques

The search for a wide spectrum of antimicrobial agents that can avoid resistance while maintaining reasonable side effects has led to ozonated oils experiencing an increase in scientific interest and clinical applications. The treatment of vegetable oils with ozone leads to the creation of a reservoir of ozone that slowly releases into the skin thanks to the fact that ozone can be held as ozonides of unsaturated fatty acids. Interest in the use of ozonated oils has meant that several ozonated-vegetable-oil-containing products have been commercialized as cosmetic and pharmaceutical agents, and in innovative textile products with antibacterial activity. New approaches to the delivery of ozonated oils have very recently appeared in an attempt to improve their characteristics and reduce drawbacks, such as an unpleasant odor, high viscosity and undesired effects on skin, including irritation and rashes. The present review focuses on the current status of delivery agents that use ozonated oils as antimicrobial agents in topical (dermal, skin, and soft tissues) treatments. Challenges and future opportunities for these delivery systems will also be discussed.

Vegetable butters and oils in skin wound healing: Scientific evidence for new opportunities in dermatology

The use of vegetable butters and oils shows promising results in the treatment of skin wounds, as they have an effective impact on the phases of the wound-healing process through their antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative activities and by promoting cell proliferation, increasing collagen synthesis, stimulating dermal reconstruction, and repairing the skin's lipid barrier function. In this article, in vitro and in vivo studies of argan (Argania spinosa), avocado (Persea americana), black cumin (Nigella sativa), calophyllum (Calophyllum inophyllum), coconut (Cocos nucifera), cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon), grape (Vitis vinifera), green coffee (Coffea arabica), lentisk (Pistacia lentiscus), linseed (Linum usitatissimum), lucuma (Pouteria lucuma), mango (Mangifera indica), olive (Olea europaea), pomegranate (Punica granatum), pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo), rapeseed (Brassica napus), sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides), and sunflower (Helianthus annuus) oils were reviewed. In many cases, vegetable oils proved to be more effective than synthetic wound-healing compounds used as controls. The fatty-acid components of vegetable oils are assumed to play a major role in the wound-healing process, in particular polyunsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic acid. Evidence shows that oils with a higher linoleic to oleic acid ratio are more effective for lipid barrier repair. However, in depth studies are needed to gain knowledge about vegetable oils' effects on the skin and vice versa.

Assessment of Human Skin Gene Expression by Different Blends of Plant Extracts with Implications to Periorbital Skin Aging

Since the skin is the major protective barrier of the body, it is affected by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Environmental influences such as ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, pollution or dry/cold air are involved in the generation of radical oxygen species (ROS) and impact skin aging and dermal health. Assessment of human skin gene expression and other biomarkers including epigenetic factors are used to evaluate the biological/molecular activities of key compounds in cosmetic formulas. The objective of this study was to quantify human gene expression when epidermal full-thickness skin equivalents were exposed to: (a) a mixture of betaine, pentylene glycol, Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Rhodiola rosea root extract (BlendE) for antioxidant, skin barrier function and oxidative stress (with hydrogen peroxide challenge); and (b) a mixture of Narcissus tazetta bulb extract and Schisandra chinensis fruit extract (BlendIP) for various biomarkers and microRNA analysis. For BlendE, several antioxidants, protective oxidative stress biomarkers and many skin barrier function parameters were significantly increased. When BlendE was evaluated, the negative impact of the hydrogen peroxide was significantly reduced for the matrix metalloproteinases (MMP 3 and MMP 12), the skin aging and oxidative stress biomarkers, namely FBN2, ANXA1 and HGF. When BlendIP was tested for cell proliferation and dermal structural components to enhance the integrity of the skin around the eyes: 8 growth factors, 7 signaling, 7 structural/barrier function and 7 oxidative stress biomarkers were significantly increased. Finally, when BlendIP was tested via real-time RT-PCR for microRNA expression: miR-146a, miR-22, miR155, miR16 and miR21 were all significantly increased over control levels. Therefore, human skin gene expression studies are important tools to assess active ingredient compounds such as plant extract blends to advance dermal hypotheses toward validating cosmetic formulations with botanical molecules.

Anti-aging Effects of Select Botanicals: Scientific Evidence and Current Trends

As skin ages, there is a decline in physiologic function. These changes are induced by both intrinsic (chronologic) and extrinsic (predominately UV-induced) factors. Botanicals offer potential benefits to combat some of the signs of aging. Here, we review select botanicals and the scientific evidence behind their anti-aging claims. Botanicals may offer anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturizing, UV-protective, and other effects. A multitude of botanicals are listed as ingredients in popular cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, but only a select few are discussed here. These were chosen based on the availability of scientific data, personal interest of the authors, and perceived “popularity” of current cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. The botanicals reviewed here include argan oil, coconut oil, crocin, feverfew, green tea, marigold, pomegranate, and soy.

Untargeted metabolomics-like screening approach for chemical characterization and differentiation of canopic jar and mummy samples from Ancient Egypt using GC-high resolution MS

Canopic jarsvs.mummies: first time use of modern metabolomic techniques to unravel ancient embalming chemistry.

Cosmeceutical effect of ethyl acetate fraction of Kombucha tea by intradermal administration in the skin of aged mice

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

Natural ingredients have been always an interesting approach to prolong youthful appearance of skin. One of the natural compounds is Kombucha tea (KT), which has been mainly used as an energy drink in Asian countries for a long time. Previous reports indicated that it has pharmaceutical and favorable wound repairing effects. The beneficial properties of KT are thought to be mainly due to the presence of fermentation products such as flavonoids and other polyphenols with inhibition of hydrolytic and oxidative enzymes and anti-inflammatory effects. These properties prompted us to study the anti-aging potential of KT and investigate its effective fraction in aged mice, METHODS: Kombucha tea was fractionated into chloroform, butanol, and ethyl acetate, and flavonoid content was determined. Young and old mice were used as control. KT ethyl acetate fraction (KEAf), which had the highest flavonoid content, was intradermally administered to old mice.

RESULTS

Administration of KEAf significantly increased the collagen content, NAD⁺ /NADH level, and concomitantly improved skin connective tissue abnormalities in the aged skin. No sensitivity or irritation was observed.

CONCLUSION

This finding suggested that KEAf can be a suitable candidate as a cosmetic product to improve aging-related skin abnormalities and regeneration of aged skin.

Contact dermatitis as an adverse reaction to some topically used European herbal medicinal products - part 4: Solidago virgaurea-Vitis vinifera

This review focuses on contact dermatitis as an adverse effect of a selection of topically used herbal medicinal products for which the European Medicines Agency has completed an evaluation up to the end of November 2013 and for which a Community herbal monograph - now (since 2014) called a 'European Union herbal monograph' - has been produced. The present part 4 addresses species from Solidago virgaurea L. to Vitis vinifera L.

Assessment of Mexican Arnica (Heterotheca inuloides Cass) and Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) Extracts on Dopamine and Selected Biomarkers of Oxidative Stress in Stomach and Brain of Salmonella typhimurium Infected rats

BACKGROUND

The effects of some natural products on dopamine (DA) and 5-hydroxyindole acetic acid (5-HIAA) in brain of infected models are still unclear.

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this study was to measure the effect of Mexican arnica/rosemary (MAR) water extract and oseltamivir on both biogenic amines and some oxidative biomarkers in the brain and stomach of young rats under infection condition.

METHODS

Female Wistar rats (weight 80 g) in the presence of MAR or absence (no-MAR) were treated as follows: group 1, buffer solution (controls); oseltamivir (100 mg/kg), group 2; culture of Salmonella typhimurium (S.Typh) (1 × 106 colony-forming units/rat) group 3; oseltamivir (100 mg/kg) + S.Typh (same dose) group 4. Drug and extracts were administered intraperitoneally every 24 h for 5 days, and S.Typh was given orally on days 1 and 3. On the fifth day, blood was collected to measure glucose and hemoglobin. The brains and stomachs were obtained to measure levels of DA, 5-HIAA, glutathione (GSH), TBARS, H2O2, and total ATPase activity using validated methods.

RESULTS

DA levels increased in MAR group treated with oseltamivir alone but decreased in no-MAR group treated with oseltamivir plus S.Typh. 5-HIAA, GSH, and H2O2 decreased in this last group, and ATPase activity increased in MAR group treated with oseltamivir plus S.Typh. TBARS (lipid peroxidation) increased in MAR group that received oseltamivir alone. Most of the biomarkers were not altered significantly in the stomach.

CONCLUSION

MAR extract alters DA and metabolism of 5-HIAA in the brain of young animals infected. Antioxidant capacity may be involved in these effects.

SUMMARY

The purpose of this study was to measure the effect of Mexican arnica/rosemary water extract and oseltamivir on both biogenic amines and some oxidative biomarkers in the brain and stomach of young rats under infection condition. Results: Mexican arnica and rosemary extract alter dopamine and metabolism of 5-HIAA in the brain of young animals infected. Antioxidant capacity may be involved in these effects. Abbreviations used: AS: Automated system, ATP: Adenosine triphosphate, CNS: Central nervous system, CFU: Colony-forming unit, DA: Dopamine EDTA: Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, 5-HIAA: Äcido 5-hidroxindolacético (serotonina), GABA: γ-aminobutyric acid, GSH: Glutathione, H2O2: Hidrogen peroxide, HCLO4: Perchloric acid, iNOS: Inducible nitric oxide synthase, LPS: Lipopolysaccharides, MAR: Arnica/Rosemary, NaCl: Sodium Chloride, NOGSH: nitrosoglutathione, NOS: Nitric oxide, OPT: Ortho-phtaldialdehyde, Pbs: Phosphate buffered saline, pH: potential of Hydrogen, Pi: Inorganic phosphate, ROS: Reactive oxygen species, RNSs: Reactive nitrogen species Tba: Thiobarbaturic acid, TBARS: Thiobarbituric aid reactive, Tca: Trichloroacetic, Tris-HCL: Tris hydrochloride, TSA: Trypticasein Soya Agar.

Masquelier's grape seed extract: from basic flavonoid research to a well-characterized food supplement with health benefits

Careful characterization and standardization of the composition of plant-derived food supplements is essential to establish a cause-effect relationship between the intake of that product and its health effect. In this review we follow a specific grape seed extract containing monomeric and oligomeric flavan-3-ols from its creation by Jack Masquelier in 1947 towards a botanical remedy and nutraceutical with proven health benefits. The preparation's research history parallels the advancing insights in the fields of molecular biology, medicine, plant and nutritional sciences during the last 70 years. Analysis of the extract's flavanol composition emerged from unspecific colorimetric assays to precise high performance liquid chromatography - mass spectrometry and proton nuclear magnetic resonance fingerprinting techniques. The early recognition of the preparation's auspicious effects on the permeability of vascular capillaries directed research to unravel the underlying cellular and molecular mechanisms. Recent clinical data revealed a multitude of favorable alterations in the vasculature upon an 8 weeks supplementation which summed up in a health benefit of the extract in healthy humans. Changes in gene expression of inflammatory pathways in the volunteers' leukocytes were suggested to be involved in this benefit. The historically grown scientific evidence for the preparation's health effects paves the way to further elucidate its metabolic fate and molecular action in humans.

Ratite oils promote keratinocyte cell growth and inhibit leukocyte activation

Traditionally, native Australian aborigines have used emu oil for the treatment of inflammation and to accelerate wound healing. Studies on mice suggest that topically applied emu oil may have anti-inflammatory properties and may promote wound healing. We investigated the effects of ratite oils (6 emu, 3 ostrich, 1 rhea) on immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) in vitro by culturing the cells in media with oil concentrations of 0%, 0.5%, and 1.0%. Peking duck, tea tree, and olive oils were used as comparative controls. The same oils at 0.5% concentration were evaluated for their influence on peripheral blood mononuclear cell (PBMC) survival over 48 hr and their ability to inhibit IFNγ production in PBMCs activated by phytohemagglutinin (PHA) in ELISpot assays. Compared to no oil control, significantly shorter population doubling time durations were observed for HaCaT cells cultured in emu oil (1.51×faster), ostrich oil (1.46×faster), and rhea oil (1.64×faster). Tea tree oil demonstrated significant antiproliferative activity and olive oil significantly prolonged (1.35×slower) cell population doubling time. In contrast, almost all oils, particularly tea tree oil, significantly reduced PBMC viability. Different oils had different levels of inhibitory effect on IFNγ production with individual emu, ostrich, rhea, and duck oil samples conferring full inhibition. This preliminary investigation suggests that emu oil might promote wound healing by accelerating the growth rate of keratinocytes. Combined with anti-inflammatory properties, ratite oil may serve as a useful component in bandages and ointments for the treatment of wounds and inflammatory skin conditions.

Apigenin reactivates Nrf2 anti-oxidative stress signaling in mouse skin epidermal JB6 P + cells through epigenetics modifications

Nrf2 is a crucial transcription factor that controls a critical anti-oxidative stress defense system and is implicated in skin homeostasis. Apigenin (API), a potent cancer chemopreventive agent, protects against skin carcinogenesis and elicits multiple molecular signaling pathways. However, the potential epigenetic effect of API in skin cancer chemoprotection is not known. In this study, bisulfite genomic DNA sequencing and methylated DNA immunoprecipitation were utilized to investigate the demethylation effect of API at 15 CpG sites in the Nrf2 promoter in mouse skin epidermal JB6 P + cells. In addition, qPCR and Western blot analyses were performed to evaluate the mRNA and protein expression of Nrf2 and the Nrf2 ARE downstream gene, NQO1. Finally, the protein expression levels of DNA methyltransferases (DNMTs) and histone deacetylases (HDACs) were evaluated using API and the DNMT/HDAC inhibitor 5-aza/ trichostatin A. Our results showed that API effectively reversed the hypermethylated status of the 15 CpG sites in the Nrf2 promoter in a dose-dependent manner. API enhanced the nuclear translocation of Nrf2 and increased the mRNA and protein expression of Nrf2 and the Nrf2 downstream target gene, NQO1. Furthermore, API reduced the expression of the DNMT1, DNMT3a, and DNMT3b epigenetic proteins as well as the expression of some HDACs (1-8). Taken together, our results showed that API can restore the silenced status of Nrf2 in skin epidermal JB6 P + cells by CpG demethylation coupled with attenuated DNMT and HDAC activity. These results may provide new therapeutic insights into the prevention of skin cancer by dietary phytochemicals.

The efficacy and safety of a proposed herbal moisturising cream for dry skin and itch relief: a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial--study protocol

BACKGROUND

Moisturisers prevent and treat dry skin. They can also protect sensitive skin, improve skin tone and texture, and mask imperfections. Herbal medicines or their extracts have been available as topical formulations and cosmetics. Arctium lappa L. (Asteraceae) has been used to treat inflammatory disorders and various skin problems. It could be a candidate herbal medicine for treating dry skin condition.This study aims to establish the efficacy and safety of a proposed herbal moisturising cream containing Arctium lappa L. seed extract, which has been approved by the Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety for use in cosmetics.

METHODS/DESIGNS

This study is a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled study with two parallel groups (proposed herbal moisturising cream vs. placebo cream). We will recruit 66 healthy male and female participants, aged 20 to 65 years, who have been diagnosed with dry skin conditions. Participants will be randomly allocated to receive either the proposed herbal moisturising cream or a placebo cream for four weeks. Each participant will be examined for signs and symptoms before and after using the cream. Skin hydration, sebum (oily secretion) levels and transepidermal water loss (TEWL; constitutive loss of water from the skin surface) will be assessed. Participants will also be asked to fill out a health-related quality of life questionnaire. Safety will be assessed using blood tests, urine analysis, a pregnancy test, and the assessment of vital signs.

DISCUSSION

This trial will utilise high-quality methodologies in accordance with both consolidated standards for reporting trials guidelines and the guidelines for clinical trials of cosmetics products that are aimed at expressions and advertisement approval in Korea. It will evaluate the clinical efficacy and safety of a proposed herbal moisturising cream containing Arctium lappa L. seed extract to treat dry skin conditions and provide itch relief. Moreover, we will also employ health-related quality of life questionnaires to assess changes in the quality of life. The results of this study will be used to present the evidence needed to request advertising/display allowances, in compliance with the recently amended Cosmetics Act for advertisement in Korea.

TRIAL REGISTRATION

Current Controlled Trials ISRCTN46216631.

Complementary and integrative treatments: facial cosmetic enhancement

Complementary and integrative medicine is particularly popular among patients undergoing facial cosmetic enhancement. This article reviews the efficacy of the most commonly practiced integrative therapies among this surgical population, with a focus on the most current literature regarding the application or potential for application of these treatments to benefit patients undergoing facial aesthetic surgery. Adverse effects of the most popular herbal and dietary supplements are also reviewed. Finally, the potential for interaction among integrative treatments as well as with conventional pharmacologic therapy is discussed.

Rosmarinus officinalis extract suppresses Propionibacterium acnes-induced inflammatory responses

Propionibacterium acnes is a key pathogen involved in the progression of acne inflammation. The development of a new agent possessing antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity against P. acnes is therefore of interest. In this study, we investigated the inhibitory effect of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) extract on P. acnes-induced inflammation in vitro and in vivo. The results showed that ethanolic rosemary extract (ERE) significantly suppressed the secretion and mRNA expression of proinflammatory cytokines, including interleukin (IL)-8, IL-1β, and tumor necrosis factor-α in P. acnes-stimulated monocytic THP-1 cells. In an in vivo mouse model, concomitant intradermal injection of ERE attenuated the P. acnes-induced ear swelling and granulomatous inflammation. Since ERE suppressed the P. acnes-induced nuclear factor kappa-B (NF-κB) activation and mRNA expression of Toll-like receptor (TLR) 2, the suppressive effect of ERE might be due, at least partially, to diminished NF-κB activation and TLR2-mediated signaling pathways. Furthermore, three major constituents of ERE, carnosol, carnosic acid, and rosmarinic acid, exerted different immumodulatory activities in vitro. In brief, rosmarinic acid significantly suppressed IL-8 production, while the other two compounds inhibited IL-1β production. Further study is needed to explore the role of bioactive compounds of rosemary in mitigation of P. acnes-induced inflammation.

Skin ageing: natural weapons and strategies

The fact that the skin is the most visible organ makes us aware of the ageing process every minute. The use of plant extracts and herbs has its origins in ancient times. Chronological and photo-ageing can be easily distinguished clinically, but they share important molecular features. We tried to gather the most interesting evidence based on facts about plants and plant extracts used in antiaging products. Our main idea was to emphasize action mechanisms of these plant/herbal products, that is, their “strategies” in fighting skin ageing. Some of the plant extracts have the ability to scavenge free radicals, to protect the skin matrix through the inhibition of enzymatic degradation, or to promote collagen synthesis in the skin. There are some plants that can affect skin elasticity and tightness. Certainly, there is a place for herbal principles in antiaging cosmetics. On the other hand, there is a constant need for more evaluation and more clinical studies in vivo with emphasis on the ingredient concentration of the plant/herbal products, its formulation, safety, and duration of the antiaging effect.

An evidence-based systematic review of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) by the Natural Standard Research Collaboration

An evidence-based systematic review of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), including written and statistical analysis of scientific literature, expert opinion, folkloric precedent, history, pharmacology, kinetics/dynamics, interactions, adverse effects, toxicology, and dosing.

In vitro Comparison of Light-Emitting Diodes and Carnosic Acid Effects on Keratinocyte Proliferation and Wound Healing

Introduction:

Light-emitting diode (LED) therapy uses different wavelengths of light and has been reported to accelerate cutaneous wound healing. Carnosic acid is an antioxidant that is also thought to be photoprotective. We designed an in vitro study to examine the effects of LED and carnosic acid on the proliferation and migration of human keratinocytes.

Materials and Methods:

Clinically normal human keratinocytes were cultured and exposed to two wavelengths: 620 nm and 660 nm LED at different fluences. In the second part of this study, a different batch of human keratinocytes was grown in culture, and different concentrations of carnosic acid were added.

Results:

At the two wavelengths that were used, LED did not appear to have any therapeutic effect and was not effective in stimulating keratinocyte proliferation. Exposure to greater energy levels (increased fluence) produced increased cell damage that was directly proportional to the increase in energy. On the other hand, treatment of the cell cultures with the antioxidant carnosic acid resulted in an increase of keratinocyte cell proliferation, and this increase was also proportional to the concentration of carnosic acid.

Conclusions:

This study did not support the hypothesis that LED treatment results in keratinocyte proliferation; however, carnosic acid, a potent antioxidant, stimulated keratinocyte production and could be implicated in wound healing and rejuvenation.

Quality, antioxidative ability, and cell proliferation-enhancing activity of fermented black soybean broths with various supplemental culture medium

The fermented soybean-based foods have played an important role in traditional diets around the world for many centuries, and Bacillus subtilis is typically used in the fermentation of soybean-based foods. The fermentation process may improve not only the flavor but also the nutritional value of food, and substances produced in this fermented broth were affected by many factors including culture medium and the selected soybeans. In this study, we use 3 potential culture mediums in the fermentation of black soybean and the fermented black soybean broths were used for the examination of amino acid composition, total phenolics content, flavonoids and anthocyanins contents, the antioxidant properties, and cytotoxicity. Our results indicated that the fermented black soybean broth, fermentation III, have the most abundant essential amino acid (79.77 mg/g), phenolics (19.33 mg/g), flavonoids (46.01 mg/g), and anthocyanins (1.06 mg/g). Besides, all of the fermented black soybean broths exhibited the significant antioxidative abilities with 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging effect, reducing power and ferrous ion chelating effect. In addition, the fermented black soybean broths demonstrated the cell proliferation-enhancing activity in Detroit 551 cells. The cells were augmented up to the maximum value of 183.6% (compared with control) at 10 mg/mL of the fermentation I. Therefore, the different supplemental culture medium fermented black soybean broths may be used as a functional ingredient in the products of nutritional drinks and health foods.

PRACTICAL APPLICATION

The present study illustrated the potential of various supplemental culture medium fermented black soybean broths in the application of functional ingredient for nutritional drinks and health foods.

Common complementary and alternative therapies with potential use in dermatologic surgery: risks and benefits

BACKGROUND

Ambulatory surgery patients often use complementary and alternative medicine (CAM) therapies. CAM therapies may create beneficial and detrimental perioperative conditions.

OBJECTIVE

We sought to improve knowledge of CAM effects in dermatologic surgery, allowing dermatologists to potentially capitalize on therapeutic actions and to mitigate complications.

METHODS

PubMed literature search of CAM therapies in dermatologic and surgical settings was performed. Common CAM therapies with possible effects on dermatologic surgery were selected. Beneficial and detri-mental effects were reviewed.

RESULTS

A myriad of products may be used perioperatively by the patient. Therapies appearing to have some evidence for potential benefit include bromelain, honey, propolis, arnica, vitamin C and bioflavonoids, chamomile, aloe vera gel, grape seed extract, zinc, turmeric, calendula, chlorella, lavender oil, and gotu kola. Potential complications vary according to product and include platelet inhibition, contact dermatitis and, in rare cases, systemic toxicity.

LIMITATIONS

This review focuses on CAM having significant published studies evaluating efficacy for wound healing, anti-inflammatory, antipurpuric, or perioperative-related use. Most published studies have been small and often have design flaws. The scope of CAM is large and not all therapies are discussed.

CONCLUSION

Selected CAM therapies have been reported to promote wound healing, reduce edema or purpura, and provide anti-inflammatory effects. Because of high rates of CAM use, surgeons should familiarize themselves with common uses, potential benefits, and complications. Further study of effects in the dermatologic surgery setting may improve the patient-doctor relationship and enhance outcomes.

Bromelain treatment leads to maturation of monocyte-derived dendritic cells but cannot replace PGE2 in a cocktail of IL-1β, IL-6, TNF-α and PGE2

Immunotherapy using dendritic cells (DC) has shown promising results. However, the use of an appropriate DC population is critical for the outcome of this treatment, and the search for an optimal DC subset is still ongoing. The DC used in immunotherapy today are usually matured with a cytokine cocktail consisting of TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6 and PGE(2). These cells have deficits in their cytokine production, particularly IL-12p70, mainly because of the presence of PGE(2). Bromelain is a pineapple stem extract containing a mixture of proteases that has been used clinically in adjuvant cancer treatment. In this study, we analysed the effect of bromelain on human monocyte-derived DC. We added bromelain to the cytokine cocktail and modified cytokine cocktails with either no PGE(2) or reduced amounts of PGE(2), respectively. Combining bromelain with the cytokine cocktails containing PGE(2) resulted in an increased surface expression of CD83, CD80 and CD86. The chemokine receptor CCR7 was also considerably upregulated in these DC populations compared with DC treated with the cytokine cocktail alone. Removal or reduction of PGE(2) from the cytokine cocktail did not increase the IL-12p70 secretion from stimulated DC, and addition of bromelain to the different cytokine cocktails resulted in only a minor increase in IL-12p70 production. Moreover, combining bromelain with the cytokine cocktails did not improve the T cell stimulatory capacity of the generated DC populations. In conclusion, bromelain treatment of monocyte-derived DC does not improve the functional quality compared with the standard cytokine cocktail.

Natural options for the management of hyperpigmentation

Facial hyperpigmented disorders are a common complaint in the adult population of all races. First-line topical treatments are usually hydroquinone or topical retinoids, which can cause irritant reactions. The need for better tolerated, yet effective, skin lightening agents that could be utilized by a wider population has led to the investigation of several potential botanical/natural compounds. There are currently many topical cosmetic formulations claiming skin depigmenting effects. A few of the ingredients (e.g. soy) are supported not only by in vitro results but also by a body of controlled clinical efficacy studies; other ingredients, instead, are backed mostly by in vitro data and a few small uncontrolled clinical studies. In this review, we describe the most common natural ingredients used for skin depigmentation and their major published studies: soy, licorice extracts, kojic acid, arbutin, niacinamide, N-acetylglucosamine, COFFEEBERRY(™) and green tea.

Cosmeceuticals: practical applications

Cosmeceuticals are topically applied products that are more than merely cosmetic, yet are not true drugs that have undergone rigorous placebo controlled studies for safety and efficacy. There are many review articles that outline the theoretical biologic and clinical actions of these cosmeceuticals and their various ingredients. This article reviews how to incorporate various cosmeceuticals into the treatment regime of patients, depending on the diagnosis and therapies chosen. The practical application of when, why, and on whom to use different products will enable dermatologists to improve the methodology of product selection and, ultimately, improve patient's clinical results.

Botanicals in dermatology: an evidence-based review

Botanical extracts and single compounds are increasingly used in cosmetics but also in over-the-counter drugs and food supplements. The focus of the present review is on controlled clinical trials with botanicals in the treatment of acne, inflammatory skin diseases, skin infections, UV-induced skin damage, skin cancer, alopecia, vitiligo, and wounds. Studies with botanical cosmetics and drugs are discussed, as well as studies with botanical food supplements. Experimental research on botanicals was considered to a limited extent when it seemed promising for clinical use in the near future. In acne therapy, Mahonia, tea tree oil, and Saccharomyces may have the potential to become standard treatments. Mahonia, Hypericum, Glycyrrhiza and some traditional Chinese medicines appear promising for atopic dermatitis. Some plant-derived substances like dithranol and methoxsalen (8-methoxypsoralen) [in combination with UVA] are already accepted as standard treatments in psoriasis; Mahonia and Capsicum (capsaicin) are the next candidates suggested by present evidence. Oral administration and topical application of antioxidant plant extracts (green and black tea, carotenoids, coffee, and many flavonoids from fruits and vegetables) can protect skin from UV-induced erythema, early aging, and irradiation-induced cancer. Hair loss and vitiligo are also traditional fields of application for botanicals. According to the number and quality of clinical trials with botanicals, the best evidence exists for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases, i.e. atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. However, many more controlled clinical studies are needed to determine the efficacy and risks of plant-derived products in dermatology. Safety aspects, especially related to sensitization and photodermatitis, have to be taken into account. Therefore, clinicians should not only be informed of the beneficial effects but also the specific adverse effects of botanicals used for dermatologic disorders and cosmetic purposes.