Analysis of Human and Porcine Skin in vivo/ex vivo for Penetration of Selected Oils by Confocal Raman Microscopy

Contribution of Continued Dermal Exposure of PFAS-Containing Sunscreens to Internal Exposure: Extrapolation from In Vitro and In Vivo Tests to Physiologically Based Toxicokinetic Models

Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs) are widely present in sunscreen products as either active ingredients or impurities. They may penetrate the human skin barrier and then pose potential health risks. Herein, we aimed to develop a physiologically based toxicokinetic (PBTK) model capable of predicting the body loading of PFASs after repeated, long-term dermal application of commercial sunscreens. Ten laboratory-prepared sunscreens, generally falling into two categories of water-in-oil (W/O) and oil-in-water (O/W) sunscreens, were subject to in vitro percutaneous penetration test to assess the impacts of four sunscreen ingredients on PFAS penetration. According to the results, two sunscreen formulas representing W/O and O/W types that mostly enhanced PFAS dermal absorption were then selected for a subsequent 30 day in vivo exposure experiment in mice. PBTK models were successfully established based on the time-dependent PFAS concentrations in mouse tissues (R2 = 0.885-0.947) and validated through another 30 day repeated exposure experiment in mice using two commercially available sunscreens containing PFASs (R2 = 0.809-0.835). The PBTK model results suggest that applying sunscreen of the same amount on a larger skin area is more conducive to PFAS permeation, thus enhancing the exposure risk. This emphasizes the need for caution in practical sunscreen application scenarios, particularly during the summer months.

Dissolvable microneedles in the skin: Determination the impact of barrier disruption and dry skin on dissolution

Dissolvable microneedles (DMNs), fabricated from biocompatible materials that dissolve in both water and skin have gained popularity in dermatology. However, limited research exists on their application in compromised skin conditions. This study compares the hyaluronic acid-based DMNs penetration, formation of microchannels, dissolution, and diffusion kinetics in intact, barrier-disrupted (tape stripped), and dry (acetone-treated) porcine ear skin ex vivo. After DMNs application, comprehensive investigations including dermoscopy, stereomicroscope, skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), optical coherence tomography (OCT), reflectance confocal laser scanning microscopy (RCLSM), confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy (CRM), two-photon tomography combined with fluorescence lifetime imaging (TPT-FLIM), histology, and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) were conducted. The 400 µm long DMNs successfully penetrated the skin to depths of ≈200 µm for dry skin and ≈200-290 µm for barrier-disrupted skin. Although DMNs fully inserted into all skin conditions, their dissolution rates were high in barrier-disrupted and low in dry skin, as observed through stereomicroscopy and TPT-FLIM. The dissolved polymer exhibited a more significant expansion in barrier-disrupted skin compared to intact skin, with the smallest increase observed in dry skin. Elevated TEWL and reduced skin hydration levels were evident in barrier-disrupted and dry skins compared to intact skin. OCT and RCLSM revealed noticeable skin indentation and pronounced microchannel areas, particularly in barrier-disrupted and dry skin. Additional confirmation of DMN effects on the skin and substance dissolution was obtained through histology, SEM, and CRM techniques. This study highlights the impact of skin condition on DMN effectiveness, emphasizing the importance of considering dissolvability and dissolution rates of needle materials, primarily composed of hyaluronic acid, for optimizing DMN-based drug delivery.

Enhancement of Physical Appearance, Skin Permeation, and Odor Reduction Using Liposome of Hydrolyzed Salmon Collagen for Cosmetic Products

Hydrolyzed collagen (HC) derived from salmon (Oncorhynchus nerka) skin possesses properties that can nourish the skin, and it is one of the active ingredients used in cosmeceutical products for moisturizing the facial skin. However, HC solution gives off a fishy odor and it is gray in color that makes the product unacceptable for cosmetic purposes. This study aimed to use liposome-encapsulated hydrolyzed salmon collagen to improve its physical appearance, skin permeation, and eliminate the fishy odor. Two percent of HC and vitamin B3 (VitB3) were used as active ingredients to incorporate into liposomes. Phosphatidylcholine, cholesterol, and Tween 80 at a suitable weight ratio of 8 : 2 : 1 produced nano-sized vesicles (170.6 ± 0.70 nm) with the highest percentage of entrapment efficiency (95.72 ± 2.00%) of VitB3 and (49.63 ± 1.74%) of HC. Skin permeation and odor detection of the HC-VitB3 liposome were studied using Franz's diffusion cell and gas chromatography, respectively, and compared with HC-VitB3 solution. Subsequently, facial serums were formulated using HC-VitB3 liposomes and HC-VitB3 solutions, and a product satisfaction test was conducted with 100 volunteers to determine their preferred product. The results of the studies of HC-VitB3 liposome serum showed improved formulation appearance, enhanced skin permeation, and better odor elimination compared to the HC-VitB3 serum. Furthermore, seventy-three volunteers in the product satisfaction test preferred and selected the liposomal serum for its superior scent. From all the experimental results, it could be seen that liposomes can help increase skin penetration, and undesirable odors and colors can be masked by the appropriate lipid bilayer structure of liposomes.

Optical Methods for Non-Invasive Determination of Skin Penetration: Current Trends, Advances, Possibilities, Prospects, and Translation into In Vivo Human Studies

Information on the penetration depth, pathways, metabolization, storage of vehicles, active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), and functional cosmetic ingredients (FCIs) of topically applied formulations or contaminants (substances) in skin is of great importance for understanding their interaction with skin targets, treatment efficacy, and risk assessment-a challenging task in dermatology, cosmetology, and pharmacy. Non-invasive methods for the qualitative and quantitative visualization of substances in skin in vivo are favored and limited to optical imaging and spectroscopic methods such as fluorescence/reflectance confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM); two-photon tomography (2PT) combined with autofluorescence (2PT-AF), fluorescence lifetime imaging (2PT-FLIM), second-harmonic generation (SHG), coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS), and reflectance confocal microscopy (2PT-RCM); three-photon tomography (3PT); confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy (CRM); surface-enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) micro-spectroscopy; stimulated Raman scattering (SRS) microscopy; and optical coherence tomography (OCT). This review summarizes the state of the art in the use of the CLSM, 2PT, 3PT, CRM, SERS, SRS, and OCT optical methods to study skin penetration in vivo non-invasively (302 references). The advantages, limitations, possibilities, and prospects of the reviewed optical methods are comprehensively discussed. The ex vivo studies discussed are potentially translatable into in vivo measurements. The requirements for the optical properties of substances to determine their penetration into skin by certain methods are highlighted.

Quantitative determination of concentration profiles of skin components and topically applied oils by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares using in vivo confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

The main components of the stratum corneum (SC), water, lipids, and proteins, are non-homogeneously distributed throughout the depth. The quantitative determination of their concentration profiles and penetration depth of topically applied substances are urgent topics of dermatological and cosmetic research. Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy has distinct advantages when determining semi-quantitative concentrations of SC components and topically applied substances non-invasively and in vivo. In this work, we applied a tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (tMCR-ALS) method to analyze Raman spectra of the SC in the 2000-4000 cm-1 region for quantitatively determining the concentrations of water, lipids, proteins, and topically applied oils using substance-related spectral loadings which were allowed to change depth-dependently from the SC's surface toward its bottom. tMCR-ALS makes matching of depth-dependent signal attenuation, that is, the normalization on keratin, unnecessary and requires only a few additional experiments for calibration - Raman spectra of the pure materials and their densities.

Cosmetic Formulations with Melaleuca alternifolia Essential Oil for the Improvement of Photoaged Skin: A Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study

This aim of this study was to evaluate the penetration depth, antioxidant capacity and the clinical efficacy of Melaleuca alternifolia pure essential oil and in a nanoemulsion to prevent skin photoaging. For this, 2% of pure essential oil or 2% of this essential oil in a nanoemulsion were vehiculated in a formulation. The skin penetration was evaluated using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The radical protection factor was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. For a clinical study, 40 male participants, aged 18-28 years, were enrolled, being divided into three groups: vehicle formulation, M. alternifolia pure essential oil and M. alternifolia Nanoemulsion. All the participants also received a sunscreen SPF 50 to use during the day. Before and after 90 days of study, skin hydrolipidics and morphological characteristics were performed by skin imaging and biophysical techniques. The nanoemulsion presented a lower antioxidant capacity and a higher penetration through the stratum corneum, reaching the viable epidermis, improving the stratum granulosum morphology. The groups presented an increase in the papillary depth, improving in the dermis echogenicity and the collagen fibers. Melaleuca alternifolia essential provides the potential to improve photoaged skin, being the application of nanoemulsion able to reach deeper skin layers.

Penetration Depth of Propylene Glycol, Sodium Fluorescein and Nile Red into the Skin Using Non-Invasive Two-Photon Excited FLIM

The stratum corneum (SC) forms a strong barrier against topical drug delivery. Therefore, understanding the penetration depth and pathways into the SC is important for the efficiency of drug delivery and cosmetic safety. In this study, TPT-FLIM (two-photon tomography combined with fluorescence lifetime imaging) was applied as a non-invasive optical method for the visualization of skin structure and components to study penetration depths of exemplary substances, like hydrophilic propylene glycol (PG), sodium fluorescein (NaFl) and lipophilic Nile red (NR) into porcine ear skin ex vivo. Non-fluorescent PG was detected indirectly based on the pH-dependent increase in the fluorescence lifetime of SC components. The pH similarity between PG and viable epidermis limited the detection of PG. NaFl reached the viable epidermis, which was also proved by laser scanning microscopy. Tape stripping and confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy were performed additionally to study NaFl, which revealed penetration depths of ≈5 and ≈8 μm, respectively. Lastly, NR did not permeate the SC. We concluded that the amplitude-weighted mean fluorescence lifetime is the most appropriate FLIM parameter to build up penetration profiles. This work is anticipated to provide a non-invasive TPT-FLIM method for studying the penetration of topically applied drugs and cosmetics into the skin.

Skin Care Product Rich in Antioxidants and Anti-Inflammatory Natural Compounds Reduces Itching and Inflammation in the Skin of Atopic Dermatitis Patients

The atopic dermatitis (AD) complex pathogenesis mechanism reveals marked changes of certain signaling factors as well as some morphological alterations in the epidermis. Reduced resilience against environmental factors and oxidative stress often makes the treatment with corticosteroids or tacrolismus ointments indispensable. In view of the correlation between oxidative stress and AD pathological factors, antioxidants can be incorporated into AD management strategies. This study investigates a curly kale, apple and green tea-containing natural extract rich in antioxidants for its effects on signaling inflammatory molecules and skin barrier enhancement in human epidermal keratinocytes- (NHEKs) based cell assays. Furthermore, the skin penetration on porcine ears was measured ex vivo using Raman micro spectroscopy. Finally, in a double-blind half-side, placebo-controlled clinical study, the effects of a formulation containing this extract were analyzed for the influence of lesion severity, epidermal barrier function, and pruritus in mild to moderately AD patients. Summarizing our results: The extract reduces expression of inflammatory cytokines in keratinocytes and increases barrier-related molecules. The verum formulation with a very high antioxidant capacity used in AD patients with mild to moderate lesions reduces itching, local SCORAD, and improves barrier function and the hydration of skin lesions.

Safety and efficacy of combined essential oils for the skin barrier properties: In vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the safety and the synergistic effects of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine essential oils in combination on the skin using in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies.

METHODS

The phototoxicity was predicted using 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). Skin penetration was evaluated by confocal Raman microspectroscopy using direct application of essential oils to pig ears. For the clinical studies, 40 participants were enrolled and randomized in three groups: (1) lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine, (2) the same essential oils plus melaleuca and (3) placebo group. The skin was evaluated by noninvasive techniques before and after a 90-day period of topical use.

RESULTS

The essential oils were non-phototoxic, but the tangerine oil showed dose-dependent cytotoxicity (IC50: 33.1 µg/ml), presenting 35% of penetration in the viable epidermis. On the contrary, 17.7 µg/ml in combination was applied per day in the clinical study and the penetration rate for the combinations (10%, 1.77 µg/ml achieving the viable epidermis) guaranteed the safety, since in the clinical study, the application of the four essential oils improved skin barrier and morphologic skin characteristics, as well as increased skin hydration and decreased sebum levels, with no unwanted effects reported.

CONCLUSIONS

All essential oils studied were considered non-cytotoxic or non-phototoxic separately except tangerine, which present a dose-dependent cytotoxicity. Finally, the essential oils in combination in an appropriate amount were safe and effective in the improvement of the hydrolipidic balance and morphological properties of the skin.

Microfluidic Synthesis of Theranostic Nanoparticles with Near-Infrared Scintillation: Toward Next-Generation Dosimetry in X-ray-Induced Photodynamic Therapy

We developed a microfluidic synthesis to grow GdF₃:Eu theranostic scintillating nanoparticles to simultaneously monitor the X-ray dose delivered to tumors during treatments with X-ray activated photodynamic therapy (X-PDT). The flow reaction was optimized to enhance scintillation emission from the Eu³⁺ ions. The as-prepared ∼15 nm rhombohedral-shaped nanoparticles self-assembled into ∼100 nm mesoporous flower-like nanostructures, but the rhombohedral units remained intact and the scintillation spectra unaltered. The conjugation of the ScNPs with multilayers of methylene blue (MB) in a core-shell structure (GdF@MB) resulted in enhanced singlet oxygen (¹O₂) generation under X-ray irradiation, with maximum ¹O₂ production for nanoparticles with 4 MB layers (GdF@4MB). High ¹O₂ yield was further evidenced in cytotoxicity assays, demonstrating complete cell death only for the association of ScNPs with MB and X-rays. Because the scintillating Eu³⁺ emission at 694 nm is within the therapeutic window and was only partially absorbed by the MB molecules, it was explored for getting in vivo dosimetric information. Using porcine skin and fat to simulate the optical and radiological properties of the human tissues, we showed that the scintillation light can be detected for a tissue layer of ∼16 mm, thick enough to be employed in radiotherapy treatments of breast cancers, for instance. Therefore, the GdF₃:Eu ScNPs and the GdF@4MB nanoconjugates are strong candidates for treating cancer with X-PDT while monitoring the treatment and the radiation dose delivered, opening new avenues to develop a next-generation modality of real-time in vivo dosimetry.

Current views on non-invasive in vivo determination of physiological parameters of the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is widely used in dermatology and cosmetology for analysis of the concentration of skin components (lipids, natural moisturizing factor molecules, water) and the penetration depth of cosmetic/medical formulations in the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo. In recent years, it was shown that confocal Raman microspectroscopy can also be used for non-invasive in vivo depth-dependent determination of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as lamellar and lateral organization of intercellular lipids, folding properties of keratin, water mobility and hydrogen bonding states. The results showed that the strongest skin barrier function, which is primarily manifested by the orthorhombic organization of intercellular lipids, is provided at ≈20-40% SC depth, which is related to the maximal bonding state of water with surrounding components in the SC. The secondary and tertiary structures of keratin determine water binding in the SC, which is depth-dependent. This paper shows the technical possibility and advantage of confocal Raman microspectroscopy in non-invasive investigation of the skin and summarizes recent results on in vivo investigation of the human SC.

Impact of Alkanediols on Stratum Corneum Lipids and Triamcinolone Acetonide Skin Penetration

Alkanediols are widely used as multifunctional ingredients in dermal formulations. In addition to their preservative effect, considering their possible impact on drug penetration is also essential for their use. In the present study, the influence of 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol on the skin penetration of triamcinolone acetonide from four different semisolid formulations was investigated. Furthermore, confocal Raman spectroscopy measurements were performed to examine the influence of the alkanediols on stratum corneum lipid content and order. Alkanediols were found to increase the penetration of triamcinolone acetonide. However, the extent depends strongly on the formulation used. In certain formulations, 1,2-pentanediol showed the highest effect, while in others the penetration-enhancing effect increased with the alkyl chain length of the alkanediol used. None of the tested alkanediols extracted lipids from the stratum corneum nor reduced its thickness. Notwithstanding the above, the longer-chained alkanediols cause the lipids to be converted to a more disordered state, which favors drug penetration. This behavior could not be detected for the shorter-chained alkanediols. Therefore, their penetration-enhancing effect is supposed to be related to an interaction with the hydrophilic regions of the stratum corneum.

Perspective of Future SERS Clinical Application Based on Current Status of Raman Spectroscopy Clinical Trials

Raman spectroscopy has emerged as a promising tool in biomedical analysis and clinical diagnosis. The development of surface-enhanced Raman scattering spectroscopy (SERS) improved the detection limit with ultrahigh sensitivity and simplicity. More and more Raman spectroscopy clinical trials (R-PCT) have been conducted recently. However, there is a lack of an up-to-date review summarizing the current status of Raman clinical trials performed until now. Hence, the clinical trials for Raman were retrieved from the International Clinical Trials Registration Platform. We summarized the clinical characteristics of 55 registered Raman spectroscopy clinical trials (R-RSCTs) and 44 published Raman spectroscopy clinical trials (P-RSCTs). This review could assist researchers and clinicians to understand the current status of Raman spectroscopy clinical research and perhaps could benefit the reasonable and accurate design of future SERS studies.

The effect of a basic skin care product on the structural strength of the dermo-epidermal junction: An exploratory, randomised, controlled split-body trial

Skin ageing is associated with various structural alterations including a decreased strength of the dermo‐epidermal adhesion increasing the risk for shear type injuries (skin tears). Topical applications of basic skin care products seem to reduce skin tear incidence. The suction blister method leads to the artificial and controlled separation of dermis and epidermis. Therefore, time to blister formation may be used as outcome measuring the strength of dermo‐epidermal adhesion. We conducted an exploratory, randomised, controlled trial with a split‐body design on forearms in healthy female subjects (n = 12; mean age 70.3 [SD 2.1] years). Forearms assigned to the intervention were treated twice daily with petrolatum for 8 weeks. Suction blisters were induced on forearms after 4 and 8 weeks and time to blister formation was measured. Stratum corneum and epidermal hydration were measured and epidermal thickness was assessed via optical coherence tomography. Time to blistering was longer and stratum corneum as well as epidermal hydration was consistently higher in intervention skin areas. We conclude that topical application of basic skin care products may improve mechanical adhesion of the dermo‐epidermal junction and that the parameter “time to blistering” is a suitable outcome to measure dermo‐epidermal adhesion strength in clinical research.

Blind source separation of molecular components of the human skin in vivo: non-negative matrix factorization of Raman microspectroscopy data

Determination of the molecular composition of the skin is crucial for numerous tasks in medicine, pharmacology, dermatology and cosmetology. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is a sensitive method for the evaluation of molecular depth profiles in the skin in vivo. Since the Raman spectra of most of the skin constituents significantly superimpose, a spectral decomposition by a set of predefined library components is usually performed to disentangle their contributions. However, the incorrect choice of the number and type of components or differences between the spectra of the basic components measured in vitro and in vivo can lead to incorrect results of the decomposition procedure. Here, we investigate an alternative data-driven approach based on a non-negative matrix factorization (NNMF) algorithm of depth-resolved Raman spectra of skin that does not require a priori information of spectral data for the analysis. Using the model and experimentally measured depth-resolved Raman spectra of the upper epidermis in vivo, we show that NNMF provides depth profiles of endogenous molecular components and exogenous agents penetrating through the upper epidermis for the spectra and concentration. Moreover, we demonstrate that this approach is capable of providing new information on the molecular profiles of the skin.

Retaining Skin Barrier Function Properties of the Stratum Corneum with Components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor-A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Double-Blind In Vivo Study

The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This method allowed for the elucidation of subtle differences between the verum and the placebo even though the components of the verum naturally occur in the SC. This differentiation is not possible non-invasively by conventional methods. In this study, we found that the applied verum and placebo formulations disrupted the equilibrium of water, NMF and lipids in the SC. The adverse effects of the formulation could be mitigated by incorporating it into a simplified supplementation of NMF molecules. As a long-term effect, the amount of strongly bound water increases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) and the amount of weakly bound water decreases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) for the verum. This supplement was also unexpectedly able to prevent intercellular lipids (ICL) disorganization in selected depths. In the long term, the verum treatment limited the lateral disorganization of the ICL to the upper 20% SC depth. Further research is required to elucidate the interplay of these factors in the SC, to better understand their contribution to the equilibrium and barrier function of the skin. This understanding of the interaction of these naturally occurring components could help in the future to develop and optimize topical treatments for diseases like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis where the skin barrier is disrupted.

Characterization of radical types, penetration profile and distribution pattern of the topically applied photosensitizer THPTS in porcine skin ex vivo

The topical photodynamic therapy (PDT) is mainly used in the treatment of dermato-oncological diseases. The distribution and functionality of the photosensitizer Tetrahydroporphyrin-Tetratosylat (THPTS) was investigated using microscopic and spectroscopic methods after topical application to excised porcine skin followed by irradiation. The distribution of THPTS was determined by two-photon tomography combined with fluorescence lifetime imaging (TPT/FLIM) and confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM). The radicals were quantified and characterized by electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy. Results show a penetration depth of THPTS into the skin down to around 12 ± 5 µm. A penetration of THPTS through the stratum corneum was not clearly observable after 1 h penetration time, but cannot be excluded. The irradiation within the phototherapeutic window (spectral range of visible and near infrared light in the range ≈ 650-850 nm) is needed to activate THPTS. An incubation time of 10 min showed the highest radical production. A longer incubation time affected the functionality of THPTS, whereby significant less radicals were detectable. During PDT mainly reactive oxygen species (ROS) and lipid oxygen species (LOS) are produced. Overall, the irradiation dose per se influences the radical types formed in skin. While ROS are always prominent at low doses, LOS increase at high doses, independent of previous skin treatment and the irradiation wavelength used.

Stratum corneum occlusion induces water transformation towards lower bonding state: a molecular level in vivo study by confocal Raman microspectroscopy

OBJECTIVE

It is conventionally understood that occlusive effects are the retention of excessive water in the stratum corneum (SC), the increase of SC thickness (swelling) and a decrease of the transepidermal water loss. However, the influence of occlusion on water binding properties in the SC is unknown.

METHODS

The action of plant-derived jojoba and almond oils, as well as mineral-derived paraffin oil and petrolatum topically applied on human skin, is investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. To understand the oils' influence on the SC on the molecular level, the depth-dependent hydrogen bonding states of water in the SC and their relationship to the conformation of keratin, concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) molecules and lipid organization were investigated.

RESULTS

A significant SC swelling was observed only in petrolatum-treated skin. The water concentration was increased in oil-treated skin in the intermediate SC region (40-70% SC depth). Meanwhile, the amount of free, weakly and tightly bound water increased, and strongly bound water decreased in the uppermost SC region (0-30% SC depth). The NMF concentration of oil-treated skin was significantly lower at 50-70% SC depth. The lateral organization of lipids in oil-treated skin was lower at 0-30% SC depth. The secondary structure of keratin was changed towards an increase of β-sheet content in mineral-derived oil-treated skin and changed towards an increase of α-helix content in plant-derived oil-treated skin.

CONCLUSION

The occlusive properties can be summarized as the increase of free water and the transformation of water from a more strongly to a more weakly hydrogen bonding state in the uppermost SC, although some oils cause insignificant changes of the SC thickness. The accompanied changes in the keratin conformation at the intermediate swelling region of the SC also emphasize the role of keratin in the SC's water-transporting system, that is the water in the SC transports intercellularly and intracellularly in the intermediate swelling region and only intercellularly in the uppermost non-swelling region. Bearing this in mind, almond, jojoba and paraffin oils, which are not occlusive from the conventional viewpoint, have an occlusion effect similar to petrolatum on the SC.

The application of label-free imaging technologies in transdermal research for deeper mechanism revealing

The penetration behavior of topical substances in the skin not only relates to the transdermal delivery efficiency but also involves the safety and therapeutic effect of topical products, such as sunscreen and hair growth products. Researchers have tried to illustrate the transdermal process with diversified theories and technologies. Directly observing the distribution of topical substances on skin by characteristic imaging is the most convincing approach. Unfortunately, fluorescence labeling imaging, which is commonly used in biochemical research, is limited for transdermal research for most topical substances with a molecular mass less than 500 Da. Label-free imaging technologies possess the advantages of not requiring any macromolecular dyes, no tissue destruction and an extensive substance detection capability, which has enabled rapid development of such technologies in recent years and their introduction to biological tissue analysis, such as skin samples. Through the specific identification of topical substances and endogenous tissue components, label-free imaging technologies can provide abundant tissue distribution information, enrich theoretical and practical guidance for transdermal drug delivery systems. In this review, we expound the mechanisms and applications of the most popular label-free imaging technologies in transdermal research at present, compare their advantages and disadvantages, and forecast development prospects.

Response to comment by Puppels et al. on "A modification for the calculation of water depth profiles in oil-treated skin by in vivo Raman microscopy"

The presence of penetrated oils in the stratum corneum (SC), oil-induced occlusion of the SC and formation of occluding homogeneous film on the skin surface are discussed in relation to their influence on results of water profile calculations using conventional and newly proposed extended methods. It is shown that the conventional method does not determine the water profiles in treated skin correctly due to the superposition of Raman bands of SC's proteins and penetrated and remnant oils.

Systematic Investigation of the Effect of Non-Ionic Emulsifiers on Skin by Confocal Raman Spectroscopy-A Comprehensive Lipid Analysis

Non-ionic emulsifiers are commonly found in existing pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations and have been widely employed to enhance the penetration and permeation of active ingredients into the skin. With the potential of disrupting skin barrier function and increasing fluidity of stratum corneum (SC) lipids, we herein examined the effects of two kinds of non-ionic emulsifiers on intercellular lipids of skin, using confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) with lipid signals on skin CRS spectrum. Non-ionic emulsifiers of polyethylene glycol alkyl ethers and sorbitan fatty acid esters were studied to obtain a deep understanding of the mechanism between non-ionic emulsifiers and SC lipids. Emulsifier solutions and dispersions were prepared and applied onto excised porcine skin. Water and sodium laureth sulfate solution (SLS) served as controls. SC lipid signals were analysed by CRS regarding lipid content, conformation and lateral packing order. Polyethylene glycol (PEG) sorbitan esters revealed no alteration of intercellular lipid properties while PEG-20 ethers appeared to have the most significant effects on reducing lipid content and interrupting lipid organization. In general, the polyoxyethylene chain and alkyl chain of PEG derivative emulsifiers might indicate their ability of interaction with SC components. HLB values remained critical for complete explanation of emulsifier effects on skin lipids. With this study, it is possible to characterize the molecular effects of non-ionic emulsifiers on skin lipids and further deepen the understanding of enhancing substance penetration with reduced skin barrier properties and increased lipid fluidity.

An in vitro Raman study on compositional correlations of lipids and protein with animal tissue hydration

Raman spectroscopy is a powerful non-invasive tool for detection and classification of chemical composition of materials including biological tissues. In this work, we report an in vitro Raman study on animal skin samples with a focus on high-frequency vibrations such as symmetric CH₃ stretching mode at 2934 cm^-1, and the symmetric CH₂ vibration mode at 2854 cm^-1, OH stretching modes near 3412 cm^-1, and bounded OH mode near 3284 cm^-1. Raman data was acquired with a customized InGaAs based Raman spectrometer that consolidates the NIR (866 nm) light and the InGaAs detector and is particularly suitable for probing high-frequency vibrations. The Raman spectra of fat, tendon, and muscle tissues are also analyzed to determine the spectroscopic identities of CH and OH groups in skin. Our results suggest that the protein is beneficial for the maintenance of skin hydration, as it has higher water capacity and greater capability to retain water than lipids. This conclusion is consistent with the additional discovery that water exists in fat mainly as unbound type, while part of water exists as bound type in muscle.

Microneedle-Facilitated Intradermal Proretinal Nanoparticle Delivery

Topical retinoid treatments stimulate biological activities in the skin. The main physical barrier, which limits the efficacy of transdermal drug delivery, is the stratum corneum. Proretinal nanoparticles (PRN) have already been proven to efficiently deliver retinal into the epidermis. In the present study, two transdermal drug delivery systems, microneedles (MN) and PRN, were combined to directly target the dermis. The microchannels induced by the MN, the PRN localization in the microchannels and the skin closure kinetics were investigated by non-invasive imaging techniques, such as dermoscopy, optical coherence tomography and multiphoton tomography. Additionally, the amount of retinal in the epidermis and dermis after application in three different forms (PRN-Loaded microneedles, PRN suspension or conventional retinal solution) was compared. All imaging techniques confirmed the formation of microchannels in the skin, which were partly still detectable after 24 h. Multiphoton tomography showed the release of PRN from the MN within the microchannels. The recovered retinal concentration in the dermis was significantly higher when applied via PRN-loaded microneedles. We hypothesized that this platform of PRN-loaded microneedles can provide a rapid and efficient administration of retinal in the dermis and could be of benefit in some skin conditions such as atrophic scar or photo-aged skin.

Mineral oil in food, cosmetic products, and in products regulated by other legislations

For a few years, mineral oils and their potential adverse health effects have been a constant issue of concern in many regulatory areas such as food, cosmetics, other consumer products, and industrial chemicals. Analytically, two fractions can be distinguished: mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH) and mineral oil aromatic hydrocarbons (MOAH). This paper aims at assessing the bioaccumulative potential and associated histopathological effects of MOSH as well as the carcinogenic potential of MOAH for consumer-relevant mineral oils. It also covers the absorption, distribution, metabolism, and excretion of MOSH and MOAH upon oral and dermal exposures. The use and occurrence of consumer-relevant, highly refined mineral oils in food, cosmetics and medicinal products are summarized, and estimates for the exposure of consumers are provided. Also addressed are the challenges in characterizing the substance identity of mineral oil products under REACH. Evidence from more recent autopsy and biopsy studies, along with information on decreasing food contamination levels, indicates a low risk for adverse hepatic lesions that may arise from the retention of MOSH in the liver. With respect to MOAH, at present there is no indication of any carcinogenic effects in animals dermally or orally exposed to highly refined mineral oils and waxes. Such products are used not only in cosmetics but also in medicinal products and as additives in food contact materials. The safety of these mineral oil-containing products is thus indirectly documented by their prevalent and long-term use, with a simultaneous lack of clinical and epidemiological evidence for adverse health effects.

Laser scanning microscopy for control of skin decontamination efficacy from airborne particulates using highly absorbent textile nanofiber material in combination with PEG-12 dimethicone

BACKGROUND

The decontamination of the skin is indispensable if airborne particulate contaminants deposit on the skin surface. Skin washing can have adverse effects as by skin rubbing the particles can be transferred deeply into the hair follicles, where they can be entrapped for a period of more than 10 days. Thus, alternative skin decontamination strategies are necessary.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

For imaging the contaminants in the skin, sodium fluorescein-labeled soot particles of submicron size (≈600 nm) were visualized using laser scanning microscopy.

RESULTS

In the present ex vivo pilot study on porcine ear skin, it was shown that sodium fluorescein-labeled soot particles of submicron size (≈600 nm) could be efficiently removed from the skin with highly absorbent textile nanofiber material, whose efficacy could be further increased by spraying the contaminated skin area with the viscous fluid PEG-12 dimethicone before textile application.

CONCLUSION

In case of skin contamination with particulates, the contact washing should be avoided due to rubbing particles deeply into the hair follicles, where they can accumulate for a long time and induce negative consequences. Efficient skin decontamination could include pretreatment of skin surface with the viscous fluid PEG-12 dimethicone and subsequent application of highly absorbent textile nanofiber material.

Investigation of TEMPO partitioning in different skin models as measured by EPR spectroscopy - Insight into the stratum corneum

Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy represents an established tool to study properties of microenvironments, e.g. to investigate the structure and dynamics of biological and artificial membranes. In this study, the partitioning of the spin probe 2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidine-1-oxyl (TEMPO) in ex vivo human abdominal and breast skin, ex vivo porcine abdominal and ear skin as well as normal and inflammatory in vitro skin equivalents was investigated by EPR spectroscopy. Furthermore, the stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition (as determined by high-performance thin-layer chromatography), SC lipid chain order (probed by infrared spectroscopy) and the SC thickness (investigated by histology) were determined in the skin models. X-band EPR measurements have shown that TEMPO partitions in the lipophilic and hydrophilic microenvironment in varying ratios in different ex vivo and in vitro skin models. Ex vivo human abdominal skin exhibited the highest amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment. In contrast, the lowest amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment was determined in ex vivo human breast skin and the inflammatory in vitro skin equivalents. Individual EPR spectra of epidermis including SC and dermis indicated that the lipophilic microenvironment of TEMPO mainly corresponds to the most lipophilic part of the epidermis, the SC. The amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment was independent of the SC lipid composition and the SC lipid chain order but correlated with the SC thickness. In conclusion, EPR spectroscopy could be a novel technique to determine differences in the SC thickness, thus suitably complementing existing methods.

A modification for the calculation of water depth profiles in oil-treated skin by in vivo confocal Raman microscopy

In this study, an extended calculation method for the determination of the water profiles in oil-treated skin is proposed, which is based on the calculation of the ratio between the Raman band intensities of water (3350-3550 cm^-1 ) and keratin Amide I at 1650 cm^-1 . The proposed method is compared with the conventional method based on the ratio of the Raman band intensities of water (3350-3550 cm^-1 ) and keratin at 2930 cm^-1 . The conventional method creates artifacts in the depth profiles of the water concentration in oil-treated skin, showing a lower amount of water in the upper and intermediate layers of the stratum corneum, which is due to the superposition of oil- and keratin-related Raman bands at 2930 cm^-1 . The proposed extended method shows no artifacts and has the potential to determine the water depth profiles after topical application of formulations on the skin.

Barrier-disrupted skin: Quantitative analysis of tape and cyanoacrylate stripping efficiency by multiphoton tomography

Numerous studies have employed tape stripping (TS) or cyanoacrylate stripping (CS) to induce skin barrier disruption of the stratum corneum (SC) in human and porcine skin. However, the thickness of the remaining SC and the respective changes of the skin permeability have been rarely quantified. By using high-resolution multiphoton tomography, about 5 µm thick SC was found remaining on human skin after the performance of 30 times TS or 2 times CS. 50 tape strips or 4 times CS removed the entire human SC, but on porcine skin 2-3 µm thick SC was still left. TS can only reach the transition zone between the SC and the stratum granulosum because of the limited adhesion, whereas CS was able to remove viable skin layers. Permeation investigations on porcine skin revealed that the apparent permeability coefficient of the hydrophilic nitroxide spin 2,5,5-Tetramethyl-1-pyrrolidinyloxy-3-carboxylic acid increased 15-, 18-, and 21-fold when the SC amount remaining in the skin was 30%, 16%, and 8%, respectively. It is recommended to use at most 30 times TS or 3 times CS to obtain ex vivo barrier-disrupted skin that mimics diseased skin. The study provides quantitative information for the utility of TS and CS in skin penetration research.

In vivo Tracking of DNA for Precise Determination of the Stratum Corneum Thickness and Superficial Microbiome Using Confocal Raman Microscopy

The skin barrier function is mostly provided by the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost layer of the epidermis. To noninvasively analyze the physiological properties of the skin barrier functionin vivo, it is important to determine the SC thickness. Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) is widely used for this task. In the present in vivo study, a new method based on the determination of the DNA concentration profile using CRM is introduced for determining the SC thickness. The obtained SC thickness values are compared with those obtained using other CRM-based methods determining the water and lipid depth profiles. The obtained results show almost no significant differences in SC thickness for the utilized methods. Therefore, the results indicate that it is possible to calculate the SC thickness by using the DNA profile in the fingerprint region, which is comparable with the SC thickness calculated by the water depth profiles (ANOVA test p = 0.77) and the lipid depth profile (ANOVA test p = 0.74). This provides the possibility to measure the SC thickness by using the DNA profile, in case the water or lipid profile analyses are influenced by a topically applied formulation. The increase in DNA concentration in the superficial SC (0-2 µm) is related to the DNA presence in the microbiome of the skin, which was not present in the SC depth below 4 µm.

[Follicular penetration of nanocarriers is an important penetration pathway for topically applied drugs]

BACKGROUND

The hair follicle represents a significant penetration route for topically applied substances.

ISSUE

The percutaneous absorption of substances can be significantly increased and accelerated by the involvement of hair follicles. In addition, nanoparticles have the characteristic to penetrate deeply and effectively into the hair follicles.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

An optimization of drug delivery for topically applied substances is possible if the nanoparticles act solely as a carrier to transport active ingredients into the hair follicle. Once the nanocarrier has penetrated into the hair follicle, the active substance must be released there. This can be triggered by various mechanisms.

RESULTS

The released drug can thus pass into the living tissue surrounding the hair follicle independently. With the help of this innovative strategy, the bioavailability of topically applied substances can be significantly improved.

CONCLUSION

The transport of active ingredients into the hair follicles with the help of particles and the release of active substances there is a very effective new method for transporting active substances through the skin barrier.

Methods for Optical Skin Clearing in Molecular Optical Imaging in Dermatology

This short review describes recent progress in using optical clearing (OC) technique in skin studies. Optical clearing is an efficient tool for enhancing the probing depth and data quality in multiphoton microscopy and Raman spectroscopy. Here, we discuss the main mechanisms of OC, its safety, advantages, and limitations. The data on the OC effect on the skin water content are presented. It was demonstrated that 70% glycerol and 100% Omnipaque^TM 300 reduce the water content in the skin. Both OC agents (OCAs) significantly affect the strongly bound and weakly bound water. However, Omnipaque^TM 300 causes considerably less skin dehydration than glycerol. In addition, the results of examination of the OC effect on autofluorescence in two-photon excitation and background fluorescence in Raman scattering at different skin depths are presented. It is shown that Omnipaque^TM 300 is a promising OCA due to its ability to reduce background fluorescence in the upper skin layers. The possibility of multimodal imaging combining optical methods and OC technique is discussed.

Non-invasive depth profiling of the stratum corneum in vivo using confocal Raman microscopy considering the non-homogeneous distribution of keratin

Confocal Raman microscopy has a number of advantages in investigating the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo and ex vivo. The penetration profiles of xenobiotics in the SC, as well as depth profiles of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as the concentration of water depending on the strength of hydrogen bonds, total water concentration, the hydrogen bonding state of water molecules, concentration of intercellular lipids, the lamellar and lateral packing order of intercellular lipids, the concentration of natural moisturizing factor molecules, carotenoids, and the secondary and tertiary structure properties of keratin are well investigated. To consider the depth-dependent Raman signal attenuation, in most cases a normalization procedure is needed, which uses the main SC's protein keratin-related Raman peaks, based on the assumption that keratin is homogeneously distributed in the SC. We found that this assumption is not accurate for the bottom part of the SC, where the water concentration is considerably increased, thus, reducing the presence of keratin. Our results demonstrate that the bottom part of the SC depth profile should be multiplied by 0.94 in average in order to match this non-homogeneity, which result in a decrease of the uncorrected values in these depths. The correctly normalized depth profiles of the concentration of lipids, water, natural moisturizing factor and carotenoids are presented in this work. The obtained results should be taken into consideration in future skin research using confocal Raman microscopy.

Hydrogen bound water profiles in the skin influenced by optical clearing molecular agents-Quantitative analysis using confocal Raman microscopy

Confocal Raman microscopy has been used to measure depth-dependent profiles of porcine skin ex vivo in the high wavenumber region after application of molecular optical clearing agents (OCAs). Glycerol (70%) and iohexol (100% Omnipaque [300]) water solutions were used as OCAs and topically applied to porcine ear skin for 30 and 60 minutes. Using Gaussian function-based deconvolution, the changes of hydrogen bound water molecule types have been microscopically analyzed down to the depth of 200 μm. Results show that both OCAs induced skin dehydration (reduction of total water), which is 51.3% for glycerol (60 minutes), 33.1% for glycerol (30 minutes), 8.3% for Omnipaque (60 minutes) and 4.4% for Omnipaque (30 minutes), on average for the 40 to 200 μm depths. Among the water types in the skin, the following reduction was observed in concentration of weakly bound (51.1%, 33.2%, 7.5% and 4.6%), strongly bound (50.4%, 33.0%, 7.9% and 3.4%), tightly bound (63.6%, 42.3%, 26.1% and 12.9%) and unbound (55.4%, 28.7%, 10.1% and 5.9%) water types on average for the 40 to 200 μm depths, post application of glycerol (60 minutes), glycerol (30 minutes), Omnipaque (60 minutes) and Omnipaque (30 minutes), respectively. As most concentrated in the skin, weakly and strongly bound water types are preferentially involved in the OCA-induced water flux in the skin, and thus, are responsible for optical clearing efficiency.

Deposition of plant lipids after single application of a lip care product determined by confocal raman spectroscopy, corneometry and transepidermal water-loss

OBJECTIVE

Lip treatment products often incorporate oils and waxes in their formulations, and a desired outcome of their use is to prevent lip dryness and roughness as well as help to repair this condition. The objective of this study was to combine confocal Raman spectroscopy with skin capacitance (corneometry) and transepidermal water loss (closed chamber Aquaflux system) measurements, in the evaluation of the degree of moisturization and lip skin penetration of a fruit wax (Rhus vernicula peel cera) and natural oil-based (Cocos nucifera fruit oil and Olea europea oil) lip care product, following a single application.

METHODS

The study was conducted on a total of 15 healthy female volunteers. Instrumental measurements were performed before and 30 min, 2 h and 6 h after a single application of the product.

RESULTS

Lip skin barrier function as well as lip hydration were significantly improved and penetration of olive oil was maintained for at least 6 h post product application. The deposition of the three component lipids (berry fruit wax, coconut oil and olive oil) into the stratum corneum after a single application of the lip care product was maintained and data significant for 2-6 h post product application. Lipid deposition was regarded as a positive long-lasting skin care (depot-) effect combined with a profound hydrating effect for about 6 h.

CONCLUSION

The tri-method approach taken in this study is deemed relevant and valid for measuring lip hydration offering a complimentary assessment of the barrier function of lip skin and interactive effects of cosmetic ingredients.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopy as a tool to measure the prevention of skin penetration by a specifically designed topical medical device

BACKGROUND/AIM

The scope of this study was to utilize confocal Raman spectroscopy in the evaluation of the degree of non-penetration into the viable skin layers of a paraffin and petrolatum-based product for use in the intimate areas of the skin. The formulation was purposely designed with properties to prevent undesirable skin penetration.

METHODS

Product-The test product was a proprietary topical medical device comprising paraffinum liquidum, petrolatum, paraffin, and tocopheryl acetate. Volunteers-A total of 20 healthy volunteers were recruited onto the study-17 females and three males. Product Testing-Raman spectra were obtained at Baseline and 90 minutes after product application. Product Penetration-Skin penetration was calculated from Raman spectra taken at skin depths of -5, 0, 5, 10, 15, and 20 μm.

RESULTS

Raman spectra of the investigated product could be clearly differentiated from the skin spectrum. The minimum measurable concentration of the test product was determined at a detection level of 0.5%. In this study, the test product did not penetrate down to skin depths of 10 to 20 μm.

CONCLUSIONS

Within the precision range of the test method, the investigated product did not penetrate into the compact part of the stratum corneum. The study revealed Raman spectroscopy to be suitable to detect not only penetration but also non-penetration of substances into human skin.

Caffeine delivery in porcine skin: a confocal Raman study

Confocal Raman microscopy is a novel optical method for studies of pro-drug and drug delivery. This method is a promising technique that enables non-destructive measurement of the permeation profile through skin layers. Peaks of compounds are usually normalised to skin peaks (amino-acid and amide I) for semi-quantitative evaluation. The present study seeks to optimise a methodology for complete quantitative measurement of the amount of an active compound at different depths. Caffeine was used as a tracer to evaluate compound's skin penetration using confocal Raman microscopy. A semi-quantitative depth profile of caffeine was obtained with normalisation of the Raman intensities. These ratios of Raman intensities were correlated with the caffeine concentration using an external calibration curve. The calibration curve was carried out with porcine skin incubated in different concentrations of caffeine; afterwards, each skin sample was analysed by confocal Raman microscopy and HPLC to determine the relation between the Raman signal intensity and the caffeine concentration per skin mass and to create a depth profile. These correlation curves allow the full quantification of the caffeine in skin from Raman intensity ratios at different depths.

Human skin in vivo has a higher skin barrier function than porcine skin ex vivo-comprehensive Raman microscopic study of the stratum corneum

Porcine skin is widely used as a human skin model in dermatology. For both, porcine stratum corneum (SC) ex vivo and human SC in vivo, the hydrogen bonding states of water, the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) concentrations and the intercellular lipids' (ICL) lateral organization are investigated depth-dependently using confocal Raman microscopy. The SC depth profiles show that porcine SC ex vivo is characterized by lower hydrogen bonding states of water (10%-30% SC depth), lower NMF concentration in the whole SC, more β-sheet form of keratin (10%-90% SC depth), more folded tertiary keratin structures (30%-70% SC depth) and higher hexagonal lateral packing order of ICL (10%-50% SC depth) compared to human SC in vivo. The results clearly show a higher value of skin barrier function of human SC in vivo than of porcine SC ex vivo. Thus, the human SC in vivo is less permeable for lipophilic and hydrophilic substances than porcine SC ex vivo. Considering the porcine SC as an ex vivo model of human SC in vivo, these findings should be taken into consideration.

Recent progress in tissue optical clearing for spectroscopic application

This paper aims to review recent progress in optical clearing of the skin and over naturally turbid biological tissues and blood using this technique in vivo and in vitro with multiphoton microscopy, confocal Raman microscopy, confocal microscopy, NIR spectroscopy, optical coherence tomography, and laser speckle contrast imaging. Basic principles of the technique, its safety, advantages and limitations are discussed. The application of optical clearing agent on a tissue allows for controlling the optical properties of tissue. Optical clearing-induced reduction of tissue scattering significantly facilitates the observation of deep-located tissue regions, at the same time improving the resolution and image contrast for a variety of optical imaging methods suitable for clinical applications, such as diagnostics and laser treatment of skin diseases, mucosal tumor imaging, laser disruption of pathological abnormalities, etc.

Keratin-water-NMF interaction as a three layer model in the human stratum corneum using in vivo confocal Raman microscopy

The secondary and tertiary structure of keratin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are of great importance regarding the water regulating functions in the stratum corneum (SC). In this in vivo study, the depth-dependent keratin conformation and its relationship to the hydrogen bonding states of water and its content in the SC, are investigated using confocal Raman microscopy. Based on the obtained depth-profiles for the β-sheet/α-helix ratio, the stability of disulphide bonds, the amount of cysteine forming disulphide bonds, the buried/exposed tyrosine and the folding/unfolding states of keratin, a "three layer model" of the SC, regarding the keratin-water-NMF interaction is proposed. At the uppermost layers (30-0% SC depth), the keratin filaments are highly folded, entailing limited water binding sites, and NMF is mostly responsible for binding water. At the intermediate layers (70-30% SC depth), the keratin filaments are unfolded, have the most water binding sites and are prone to swelling. At the bottom layers (100-80% SC depth), the water binding sites are already occupied with water and cannot swell substantially. The hydrogen bonding states of water molecules can only be explained by considering both, the molecular structure of keratin and the contribution of NMF as a holistic system.

A comparative study of ex vivo skin optical clearing using two-photon microscopy

Multiphoton tomography (MPT) is a prospective tool for imaging the skin structure. Aiming to increase the probing depth, a comparative ex vivo study of optical clearing of porcine ear skin was performed by using two optical clearing agents (OCAs), i.e., glycerol and iohexol (Omnipaque^TM ) at different concentrations, which exhibit different osmotic properties. The results show that a topical application of glycerol or Omnipaque^TM solutions onto the skin for 60 min significantly improved the depth and contrast of the MPT signals. By utilizing 40%, 60% and 100% glycerol, and 60% and 100% Omnipaque^TM it was demonstrated that both agents improve autofluorescence and SHG (second harmonic generation) signals from the skin. At the applied concentrations and agent time exposure, glycerol is more effective than Omnipaque^TM . However, tissue shrinkage and cell morphology changes were found for highly concentrated glycerol solutions. Omnipaque^TM , on the contrary, increases the safety and has no or minimal tissue shrinkage during the optical clearing process. Moreover Omnipaque^TM allows for robust multimodal optical/X-ray imaging with automatically matched optically cleared and X-ray contrasted tissue volumes. These findings make Omnipaque^TM more prospective than glycerol for some particular application.

Review of data on the dermal penetration of mineral oils and waxes used in cosmetic applications

Mineral oils and waxes used in cosmetic products, also referred to as "personal care products" outside the European Union, are mixtures of predominantly saturated hydrocarbons consisting of straight-chain, branched and ring structures with carbon chain lengths greater than C16. They are used in skin and lip care cosmetic products due to their excellent skin tolerance as well as their high protecting and cleansing performance and broad viscosity options. Recently, concerns have been raised regarding potential adverse health effects of mineral oils and waxes from dermal application of cosmetics. In order to be able to assess the risk for the consumer the dermal penetration potential of these ingredients has to be evaluated. The scope and objective of this review are to identify and summarize publicly available literature on the dermal penetration of mineral oils and waxes as used in cosmetic products. For this purpose, a comprehensive literature search was conducted. A total of 13 in vivo (human, animal) and in vitro studies investigating the dermal penetration of mineral oils and waxes has been identified and analysed. The majority of the substances were dermally adsorbed to the stratum corneum and only a minor fraction reached deeper skin layers. Overall, there is no evidence from the various studies that mineral oils and waxes are percutaneously absorbed and become systemically available. Thus, given the absence of dermal uptake, mineral oils and waxes as used in cosmetic products do not present a risk to the health of the consumer.

In vivo characterization of structural changes after topical application of glucocorticoids in healthy human skin

Topical glucocorticoids (GC) are known to induce changes in human skin with the potential to develop skin atrophy. Here, atrophogenic effects and subsequent structural changes in the skin after topical application of GC were investigated in vivo. Sixteen healthy volunteers were topically treated daily on the forearms with clobetasol propionate, betamethasone dipropionate, and the petrolatum vehicle for 4 weeks. All treated skin areas and a nontreated control area were examined by ultrasound, optical coherence tomography, confocal laser scanning microscopy, multiphoton tomography (MPT), and resonance Raman spectroscopy at baseline 1 day after last application and 1 week after last application. Investigated parameters included stratum corneum thickness, epidermal, and full skin thickness, keratinocyte size and density, keratinocyte nucleus-to-cytoplasm ratio, skin surface classification, relative collagen and elastin signal intensity, second-harmonic generation-to-autofluorescence aging index of dermis (SAAID), and the antioxidant status of the skin. A reduction in epidermal and dermal skin thickness was observed in GC treated as well as in vehicle-treated and untreated skin areas on the volar forearm. MPT analysis showed an increased epidermal cell density and reduced cell size and nucleus-to-cytoplasm ratio and a significant increase of SAAID after GC treatment indicating a restructuring or compression of collagen fibers clinically being observed as atrophic changes.

In vivo confocal Raman microscopic determination of depth profiles of the stratum corneum lipid organization influenced by application of various oils

BACKGROUND

The intercellular lipids (ICL) of stratum corneum (SC) play an important role in maintaining the skin barrier function. The lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in SC is not homogenous, but rather depth-dependent.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to analyze the influence of the topically applied mineral-derived (paraffin and petrolatum) and plant-derived (almond oil and jojoba oil) oils on the depth-dependent ICL profile ordering of the SC in vivo.

METHOD

Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM), a unique tool to analyze the depth profile of the ICL structure non-invasively, is employed to investigate the interaction between oils and human SC in vivo.

RESULTS

The results show that the response of SC to oils' permeation varies in the depths. All oils remain in the upper layers of the SC (0-20% of SC thickness) and show predominated differences of ICL ordering from intact skin. In these depths, skin treated with plant-derived oils shows more disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL than intact skin (p<0.05). In the intermediate layers of SC (30-50% of SC thickness), the oils do not influence the lateral packing order of SC ICL (p>0.1), except plant-derived oils at the depth 30% of SC thickness. In the deeper layers of the SC (60-100% of SC thickness), no difference between ICL lateral packing order of the oil-treated and intact skin can be observed, except that at the depths of 70-90% of the SC thickness, where slight changes with more disorder states are measured for plant-derived oil treated skin (p<0.1), which could be explained by the penetration of free fatty acid fractions in the deep-located SC areas.

CONCLUSION

Both oil types remain in the superficial layers of the SC (0-20% of the SC thickness). Skin treated with mineral- and plant-derived oils shows significantly higher disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in these layers of the SC compared to intact skin. Plant-derived oils significantly changed the ICL ordering in the depths of 30% and 70-90% of the SC thickness, which is likely due to the penetration of free fatty acids in the deeper layers of the SC.

Radical-Scavenging Activity of a Sunscreen Enriched by Antioxidants Providing Protection in the Whole Solar Spectral Range

BACKGROUND/AIM

The main reason for extrinsic skin aging is the negative action of free radicals. The formation of free radicals in the skin has been associated with ultraviolet (UV) exposure and also to visible (VIS) and near-infrared (NIR) irradiations. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy of a sunscreen in the whole solar range.

METHODS

The radical-scavenging activity of a sunscreen in the UV, VIS, and NIR ranges was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. Ex vivo penetration profiles were determined using confocal Raman microscopy on porcine ear skin at different time points after application.

RESULTS

Compared to the untreated skin, the sunscreen decreased the skin radical formation in the UV and VIS regions. Additional protection in the VIS and NIR ranges was observed for the sunscreen containing antioxidants (AO). The penetration depth of the cream was less than 11.2 ± 3.0 µm for all time points.

CONCLUSION

A sunscreen containing AO improved the photoprotection in the VIS and NIR ranges. The sunscreen was retained in the stratum corneum. Therefore, these results show the possibility of the development of effective and safer sunscreen products.