Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety

Formulation development of tazarotene-loaded PLGA nanoparticles for follicular delivery in the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases

Tazarotene is a widely prescribed topical retinoid for acne vulgaris and plaque psoriasis and is associated with skin irritation, dryness, flaking, and photosensitivity. In vitro permeation of tazarotene was studied across the dermatomed human and full-thickness porcine skin. The conversion of tazarotene to the active form tazarotenic acid was studied in various skin models. Tazarotene-loaded PLGA nanoparticles were prepared using the nanoprecipitation technique to target skin and hair follicles effectively. The effect of formulation and processing variables on nanoparticle properties, such as particle size and drug loading, was investigated. The optimized nanoparticle batches with particle size <500 µm were characterized further for FT-IR analysis, which indicated no interactions between tazarotene and PLGA. Scanning electron microscopy analysis showed uniform, spherical, and non-agglomerated nanoparticles. In vitro release study using a dialysis membrane indicated a sustained release of 40-70 % for different batches over 36 h, following a diffusion-based release mechanism based on the Higuchi model. In vitro permeation testing (IVPT) in full-thickness porcine skin showed significantly enhanced follicular and skin delivery from nanoparticles compared to solution. The presence of tazarotenic acid in the skin from tazarotene nanoparticles indicated the effectiveness of nanoparticle formulations in retaining bioconversion ability and targeting follicular delivery.

Lapagyl mitigates UV-induced inflammation and immunosuppression via Foxp3+ Tregs and CCL pathway: A single-cell transcriptomics study

BACKGROUND

As the largest organ of the body, the skin is constantly subjected to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), leading to inflammations and changes that mirror those seen in chronological aging. Although various small molecule drugs have been explored for treating skin photoaging, they typically suffer from low stability and a high incidence of adverse reactions. Consequently, the continued investigation of photoaging treatments, particularly those utilizing herbal products, remains a critical clinical endeavor. One such herbal product, Lapagyl, is derived from the bark of the lapacho tree and possesses antioxidant efficacies that could be beneficial in combating skin photoaging.

PURPOSE

This research aimed to evaluate the efficacy of the herbal product Lapagyl in combating UVR-induced skin photoaging. Additionally, it sought to unravel the mechanisms by which Lapagyl promotes the regeneration of the skin extracellular matrix.

METHODS

To investigate whether Lapagyl can alleviate skin aging and damage, a UVR radiation model was established using SKH-1 hairless mice. The dorsal skins of these mice were evaluated for wrinkle formation, texture, moisture, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and elasticity. Pathological assessments were conducted to determine Lapagyl's efficacy. Additionally, single-cell sequencing and spectrum analysis were employed to elucidate the working mechanisms and primary components of Lapagyl in addressing UVR-induced skin aging and injury.

RESULTS

Lapagyl markedly reduced UVR-induced wrinkles, moisture loss, and elasticity decrease in SKH-1 mice. Single-cell sequencing demonstrated that Lapagyl corrected the imbalance in cell proportions caused by UVR, decreased UVR-induced ROS expression, and protected basal and spinous cells from skin damage. Additionally, Lapagyl effectively prevented the entry of inflammatory cells into the skin by reducing CCL8 expression and curtailed the UVR-induced formation of Foxp3+ regulatory T cells (Tregs) in the skin. Both pathological assessments and ex vivo skin model results demonstrated that Lapagyl effectively reduced UVR-induced damage to collagen and elastin. Spectrum analysis identified Salidroside as the primary compound remaining in the skin following Lapagyl treatment. Taken together, our study elucidated the skin protection mechanism of the herbal product Lapagyl against UVR damage at the cellular level, revealing its immunomodulatory effects, with salidroside identified as the primary active compound for skin.

CONCLUSION

Our study provided a thorough evaluation of Lapagyl's protective effects on skin against UVR damage, delving into the mechanisms at the cellular level. We discovered that Lapagyl mitigates skin inflammation and immunosuppression by regulating Foxp3+ Tregs and the CCL pathway. These insights indicate that Lapagyl has potential as a novel therapeutic option for addressing skin photoaging.

Stackable Medical-Grade Skincare for the Cosmetic Medicine Patient: A Long-Term Pilot Assessment

Background

Multiple intrinsic and extrinsic factors influence aging and lead to visible changes in the skin, including dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, surface roughness, uneven pigmentation, and loss of luminosity. Although it is well established that a single combination of topicals can address multiple signs of skin aging, it is common for patients' at-home skin treatment routines to include multiple different topicals with different active ingredients. The layering of active ingredients can cause skin irritation, and lead to noncompliance with a consistent routine. Further, multiple active ingredients may exacerbate irritation from in-office aesthetic treatments.

Objectives

To assess the long-term efficacy, safety, tolerability, and patient adherence to a Stackable Treatment topical routine consisting of 4 complementary topical formulations.

Methods

This study examined a daily topical routine (Stackable Treatment routine) consisting of 4 topical formulas with different active ingredients, and evaluated the routine's safety, tolerability, and efficacy in a composite of in-office treatment patients who applied the routine for a minimum of 1 year.

Results

Of the 14 patients, 0 experienced adverse reactions. Improvements to multiple skin parameters were observed, including improvements to skin hydration, surface texture, pigmentation, vasculature, and the appearance of scars. The majority of patients continue to use the Stackable Treatment routine after the study's conclusion.

Conclusions

The combination of low incidence of irritation, high patient satisfaction, and overall efficacy of the routine indicates the Stackable Treatment routine may be well suited as a foundational skin care regimen that can complement in-office aesthetic treatments.

Level of Evidence 4

Transdermal Delivery of Recombinant Human Growth Hormone by Liposomal Gel for Skin Photoaging Therapy

Human growth hormone (hGH) has emerged as a promising therapeutic agent to prevent and treat skin photoaging. However, the success of hGH therapy largely lies in the availability of an optimal delivery system that enables the efficient delivery of hGH to the dermal layer of the skin. Here, we report a delivery system of hyaluronic acid/liposome-gel-encapsulated hGH (HA/HL-Gel) that can transdermally deliver hGH into the skin for hGH-based photoaging therapy through the upregulation of collagen type I (collagen-I). Specifically, hGH-liposomes were prepared by ethanol injection and then modified with HA to achieve specific targeting. The best formulation of HA/hGH-liposomes (HA/HL) had a high encapsulation efficiency (about 20%), with a size of 180 ± 1.2 nm. The optimized HA/HL was further incorporated into the carbomer gel to form an HA/HL-Gel. The biological activity of HA/HL on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) was confirmed by the elevated expression level of collagen-I through the enhanced local formation of insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1) in the photoaging model. Moreover, HA/HL-Gel reduced ultraviolet (UV)-induced erythema and wrinkle formation. Meanwhile, immunohistochemical staining further showed higher levels of collagen-I in the HA/HL-Gel group compared to other groups tested. Taken together, these results demonstrate that HA/HL-Gel treatment could significantly ameliorate skin photoaging and thus may be used as a clinical potential for antiaging therapy.

Comparison of five retinoids for anti-photoaging therapy: Evaluation of anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative activities in vitro and therapeutic efficacy in vivo

Over the past decades, increasing evidences have demonstrated that five retinoids, including retinol (ROL), retinol acetate (RAc), retinol propionate (RP), retinol palmitate (RPalm), and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), can be potential therapeutic agents for skin photoaging. However, therapeutic efficacies and biosafety have never been compared to these compounds. This study aimed to determine the optimal retinoid type(s) for anti-photoaging therapy both in vitro and in vivo. Our data demonstrated that four retinoids (RPalm, RP, HPR and ROL) but not RAc were effective for anti-photoaging treatment at 5 μg/mL in vitro, with action mechanisms associated with antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and anti-skin ECM degradation activities. Notably, both RPalm and RP appeared superior to HPR and ROL for those activities. Importantly, both RPalm and RP were shown to be optimal for anti-photoaging therapy when topically applied at 5 mg/kg in a UVB-induced mice model of photoaging, which is consistent with their high anti-photoaging activities in vitro. Additionally, topical application of these five retinoids showed satisfactory biosafety without causing significant apoptosis in animal organs, although RP application led to a slight decline in animal body weights. Collectively, these data have laid a good foundation for the next development of the clinical application of these retinoids for skin healthcare.

Topical and Systemic Retinoids in the Management of Hidradenitis Suppurativa: A Comprehensive Literature Review

Hidradenitis suppurativa (HS) is a debilitating chronic skin disorder characterized by painful inflammatory nodules, abscesses and sinus tracts involving intertriginous areas and has an adverse impact on patient quality of life. Over the past decade, the therapeutic options of HS have increased significantly to comprise multiple modalities, including topical medication, systemic therapies (mainly antibiotics, retinoids, and biologics), surgical approaches, and lifestyle modifications. Biologics alone or in combination with surgery remain the treatment of choice for moderate to severe disease. However, non-biologic therapies (including retinoids) may be used as monotherapy for mild disease and in combination with biologics and surgical treatment in moderate to severe disease. Retinoids, specifically isotretinoin, acitretin, and alitretinoin, are historically used in the management of HS, supported by anecdotal evidence and with variable treatment response. Although the current American and European guidelines offer different recommendations on the use of retinoids in HS, retinoids remain a valuable ally in HS management. This review provides a comprehensive analysis of the current scientific literature on retinoid therapy (topical and systemic) in HS, highlighting disparities in mechanisms of action, efficacy, and safety to clarify their role in HS treatment.

Topical application of retinyl propionate, 4 hexyl resorcinol, and niacinamide reverses molecular and clinical features of ageing

OBJECTIVE

Topical tretinoin is the mainstay of treatment for photoageing, despite the risk of skin irritation. Cosmetic combination anti-ageing formulations may offer similar efficacy to tretinoin, while improving on tolerability. We aim to demonstrate facial appearance benefits of a novel triple-active cosmetic formulation containing 4-hexylresorcinol, retinyl propionate, and niacinamide and to identify transcriptomic biomarkers underpinning these benefits.

METHODS

A cosmetic prototype formulation containing 4-hexylresorcinol, retinyl propionate, and niacinamide was evaluated ex vivo and in a clinical study. For ex vivo experiments, the cosmetic formulation was applied for 3 days to healthy surgical discard skin from female donors aged 31-51 years, with tissues harvested for gene expression and histologic analyses. In the clinical study, females aged 47-66 years with moderate-to-severe overall visual photodamage on the face applied either topical 0.02% tretinoin or the cosmetic formulation to the face for 16 weeks and to forearms for 1 week, with forearm biopsies taken for gene expression analyses. Visual grading for facial photodamage and VISIA-CR images was taken throughout the clinical study. Safety was visually assessed during site visits, and adverse event monitoring was conducted throughout.

RESULTS

Gene expression analyses in both studies revealed modulation of pathways associated with skin rejuvenation, with several genes of interest identified due to being implicated in ageing and differentially expressed following the application of the cosmetic formulation. Reversal of a consensus skin ageing gene signature was observed with the cosmetic formulation and tretinoin in the ex vivo and clinical studies. Both the cosmetic formulation and tretinoin clinically improved the overall appearance of photoageing, crow's feet, lines, wrinkles, and pores. Adverse event reporting showed that the cosmetic formulation caused less skin irritation than tretinoin.

CONCLUSION

In a double-blind clinical study, the novel triple-active cosmetic combination formulation improved the visual appearance of photoageing similarly to prescription tretinoin. The cosmetic formulation and tretinoin reversed a consensus gene signature associated with ageing. Together with adverse event reporting, these results suggest that the cosmetic formulation may be a well-tolerated and efficacious alternative to tretinoin for improving the visual features of photoageing.

Iberia Consensus on Strategies to Prevent and Manage Irritation by Topical Retinoids in Facial and Trunk Acne

OBJECTIVE

To assess the level of agreement on various prevention and management strategies for irritation caused by topical retinoids in facial and trunk acne in an attempt to alleviate it and minimize treatment discontinuations as much as possible.

METHOD

After reviewing the scientific medical literatura currently available, 4 different areas of uncertainty in the management of irritation caused by topical retinoids in acne were identified. A questionnaire with 34 recommendations was created and evaluated by a group of 133 dermatologists (Delphi methodology).

RESULTS

In 82.3% of the recommendations (28 out of 34), some level of agreement was reached (≥85% agreement in 22 recommendations and≥70% agreement in 6). The results with the highest level of agreement focused on specific patient education strategies (explaining that irritation is an expected reaction at the beginning of treatment and tends to decrease over time), gradual and/or spaced application of topical retinoids (at night time to prevent and/or reduce skin irritation), and the importance of using adjuvant products, specific for acne-prone skin, hydration, photoprotection, and skin cleansing. These recommendations reflect a comprehensive approach to managing irritation associated with topical retinoids and promoting long-term adherence.

CONCLUSIONS

Skin irritation caused by topical retinoids in facial and trunk acne is an expected, mild, and controllable reaction if proper prevention and management guidelines are followed, meaning that it should not be a reason for treatment discontinuation.

Influence of the modification of the cosmetic peptide Argireline on the affinity toward copper(II) ions

Argireline (Ac-EEMQRR-NH2 ), a well-known neurotransmitter peptide with a potency similar to botulinum neurotoxins, reveals a proven affinity toward Cu(II) ions. We report herein Cu(II) chelating properties of three new Argireline derivatives, namely, AN4 (Ac-EAHRR-NH2 ), AN5 (Ac-EEHQRR-NH2 ), and AN6 (Ac-EAHQRK-NH2 ). Two complementary experimental techniques, i.e., potentiometric titration (PT) and isothermal titration calorimetry (ITC), have been employed to describe the acid-base properties of the investigated peptides as well as the thermodynamic parameters of the Cu(II) complex formation. Additionally, based on density functional theory (DFT) calculations, we propose the most likely structures of the resulting Cu-peptide complexes. Finally, the cytotoxicity of the free peptides and the corresponding Cu(II) complexes was estimated in human skin cells for their possible future cosmetic application. The biological results were subsequently compared with free Argireline, its Cu(II)-complexes, and the previously studied AN2 derivative (EAHQRR).

Microneedles: A novel clinical technology for evaluating skin characteristics

BACKGROUND

Current methods for evaluating efficacy of cosmetics have limitations because they cannot accurately measure changes in the dermis. Skin sampling using microneedles allows identification of skin-type biomarkers, monitoring treatment for skin inflammatory diseases, and evaluating efficacy of anti-aging and anti-pigmentation products.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Two studies were conducted: First, 20 participants received anti-aging treatment; second, 20 participants received anti-pigmentation treatment. Non-invasive devices measured skin aging (using high-resolution 3D-imaging in the anti-aging study) or pigmentation (using spectrophotometry in the anti-pigmentation study) at weeks 0 and 4, and adverse skin reactions were monitored. Skin samples were collected with biocompatible microneedle patches. Changes in expression of biomarkers for skin aging and pigmentation were analyzed using qRT-PCR.

RESULTS

No adverse events were reported. In the anti-aging study, after 4 weeks, skin roughness significantly improved in 17 out of 20 participants. qRT-PCR showed significantly increased expression of skin-aging related biomarkers: PINK1 in 16/20 participants, COL1A1 in 17/20 participants, and MSN in 16/20 participants. In the anti-pigmentation study, after 4 weeks, skin lightness significantly improved in 16/20 participants. qRT-PCR showed significantly increased expression of skin-pigmentation-related biomarkers: SOD1 in 15/20 participants and Vitamin D Receptor (VDR) in 15/20 participants. No significant change in TFAP2A was observed.

CONCLUSION

Skin sampling and mRNA analysis for biomarkers provides a novel, objective, quantitative method for measuring changes in the dermis and evaluating the efficacy of cosmetics. This approach complements existing evaluation methods and has potential application in assessing the effectiveness of medical devices, medications, cosmeceuticals, healthy foods, and beauty devices.

Cosmetic Dermatology Concerns in Older Adults

It is important to understand that each layer of facial tissue, from the underlying facial skeleton to the overlying skin, undergoes significant changes during the aging process. Bony support is lost along the mandible and maxilla and the orbital aperture widens. Superficial and deep fat pads undergo volume loss and migration and the overlying skin begins to reveal signs of both intrinsic aging with skin laxity and fine rhytids as well as extrinsic aging in the form of coarse, deeper rhytids and dyspigmentation.

L-4-thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non-proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits

OBJECTIVE

Facial skin undergoes major structural and functional changes as a result of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The goal of the current work is to demonstrate L-4-thiazolylalaine (L4, Protinol), a non-proteinogenic amino acid shown to stimulate the production of dermal proteins by fibroblasts, is an alternative efficacious topical ingredient for visible signs of ageing.

METHODS

In vitro studies using 3D human skin tissue models were performed to show changes in protein and gene expression of key dermal markers in samples treated with 0.3% L4 compared to vehicle control. In vivo evaluation of skin turnover was measured in volunteers after treatment with L4 compared to retinol. Skin biopsies (n = 30) were taken to investigate epidermal and dermal changes in cases treated with L4 and compared to retinol. Finally, a clinical evaluation (n = 28) was conducted to assess the efficacy of L4 over a base formulation using various ageing parameters within a population of women 46-66 years old with mild-to-moderate wrinkles.

RESULTS

In vitro studies on 3D tissues displayed significant changes in the dermal matrix via an increase in HA and pro-collagen I production and a decrease in the expression of inflammatory genes. In vivo biopsy studies demonstrated that L4 and retinol independently increased epidermal thickness and collagen remodelling significantly more compared with the base formula. Clinical evaluation showed firmer and smoother skin at day 28 post-treatment with L4 over the vehicle control without causing side effects such as redness or irritation.

CONCLUSION

L4 is a novel, multi-functional ingredient which offers a superior alternative to currently available technologies for improving epidermal and dermal parameters that change during ageing and photodamage.

Marine Bioactive Peptides: Anti-Photoaging Mechanisms and Potential Skin Protective Effects

Skin photoaging, resulting from prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, is a form of exogenous aging that not only impacts the aesthetic aspect of the skin but also exhibits a strong correlation with the onset of skin cancer. Nonetheless, the safety profile of non-natural anti-photoaging medications and the underlying physiological alterations during the process of photoaging remain inadequately elucidated. Consequently, there exists a pressing necessity to devise more secure interventions involving anti-photoaging drugs. Multiple studies have demonstrated the noteworthy significance of marine biomolecules in addressing safety concerns related to anti-photoaging and safeguarding the skin. Notably, bioactive peptides have gained considerable attention in anti-photoaging research due to their capacity to mitigate the physiological alterations associated with photoaging, including oxidative stress; inflammatory response; the abnormal expression of matrix metalloproteinase, hyaluronidase, and elastase; and excessive melanin synthesis. This review provides a systematic description of the research progress on the anti-photoaging and skin protection mechanism of marine bioactive peptides. The focus is on the utilization of marine bioactive peptides as anti-photoaging agents, aiming to offer theoretical references for the development of novel anti-photoaging drugs and methodologies. Additionally, the future prospects of anti-aging drugs are discussed, providing an initial reference for further research in this field.

A proof of concept: Clinical anti-aging efficacy and safety of Lactiplantibacillus plantarum LB244R® applied topically in a double-blinded placebo-controlled study

BACKGROUND

With the increasing age of the westernized population, there is also increasing economic and aesthetic interest in reducing the signs of skin aging. Additionally, the physical aspect of aging can be displeasing and have detrimental effects psychologically in individuals. Probiotics have shown potential as anti-aging agents, albeit proper studies are needed to confirm their potential.

AIMS

Proving that Lactiplantibacillus plantarum LB244R® could alleviate aging signs relative to its placebo vehicle.

PATIENTS/METHODS

In total, 46 subjects were randomly assigned either the ointment with live bacteria, L. plantarum LB244R® or its vehicle ointment, and had to use the assigned ointment twice daily for 56 days. On Day 0, Day 28, and Day 56 subepidermal low echogenic band (SLEB) thickness, dermal density, skin firmness and elasticity, skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin pH, collagen fiber visualization using confocal microscopy, Crow's feet, spot score, skin smoothness, and complexion radiance were assessed by dermatologists.

RESULTS

All parameters except TEWL improved relative to their baseline (D0) for the active group. L. plantarum LB244R® improved SLEB thickness, dermal density, skin elasticity, skin hydration, and Crow's feet wrinkle score relative to the placebo vehicle ointment.

CONCLUSION

The study demonstrates an anti-aging effect of L. plantarum LB244R® for topical skin use in the first double-blinded, vehicle-ointment placebo-controlled clinical study.

From Traditional Medicine to Advanced Therapeutics: The Renaissance of Phyto-nano Interventions in Psoriasis

Psoriasis is an autoimmune systemic chronic inflammatory disease that exhibits characteristic detrimental effects on the skin, often leading to infections or comorbid conditions. The multifaceted nature of psoriasis has made it very challenging to treat, especially with current chemotherapy options. Therefore, it is essential to consider phytoconstituents as novel alternatives. However, despite demonstrating higher anti-inflammatory, anti-psoriasis, and immunomodulatory potential, their clinical usage is hindered due to their poor physicochemical properties. To address these drawbacks, nanoparticulate drug delivery systems have been developed, helping to achieve better permeation of phytoconstituents through topical administration. This has breathed new life into traditional systems of medicine, particularly in the context of treating psoriasis. In this current review, we present a detailed, comprehensive, and up-to-date analysis of the literature, which will contribute to affirming the clinical role of phyto-nano interventions against psoriasis.

Decreased oxidative stress response and oxidant detoxification of skin during aging

Oxidative stress plays an important role in the skin aging process; however, the mechanisms are not fully elucidated. Especially the changes in various types of skin cells with aging and the key oxidative stress-related genes that play a regulatory role are not clear. In this study, single-cell RNA sequencing data and microarray transcriptome data were used to explore the changes in oxidative stress response and oxidant detoxification capacity of skin cells during aging and oxidative stress-related genes potentially involved in regulating skin aging were searched. The oxidative stress response and oxidant detoxification ability were weakened in the elderly compared with those of the young. Among the different types of skin cells, keratinocytes, melanocytes, vascular endothelial cells, fibroblasts, and lymphatic endothelial cells exhibited a stronger oxidative stress response and oxidant detoxification ability, while immune cells exhibited a weaker oxidative stress response and detoxification capacity. During aging, the oxidative stress response and oxidant detoxification capacity of keratinocytes, fibroblasts, macrophages, and vascular endothelial cells were significantly weakened. Annexin A1 (ANXA1) and Apolipoprotein E (APOE) may be key oxidative stress-related genes affecting skin aging.

Effect of L-4-Thiazolylalanine (Protinol™) on skin barrier strength and skin protection

OBJECTIVES

Skin barrier properties are critical for maintaining epidermal water content, protecting from environmental factors and providing the first line of defense against pathogens. In this study, we investigated the non-proteinogenic amino acid L-4-Thiazolylalanine (L4) as a potential active ingredient in skin protection and barrier strength.

METHODS

L4 on wound healing, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties were evaluated using monolayers and 3D skin equivalents. The transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) value was used in vitro as a strong indicator of barrier strength and integrity. Clinical L4 efficacy was assessed for the evaluation of the skin barrier integrity and soothing benefits.

RESULTS

In vitro treatments of L4 show beneficial effects in wound closure mechanism, and we demonstrate that L4 anti-oxidant benefits with markedly increased HSP70 and decreased reactive oxygen species production induced by UVs exposure. Barrier strength and integrity were significantly improved by L4, confirmed clinically by an increase in 12R-lipoxygenase enzymatic activity in the stratum corneum. In addition, soothing benefits of L4 have been shown clinically with the decrease in redness after methyl nicotinate application on the inner arm and the significant reduction of the erythema and the skin desquamation on the scalp.

CONCLUSION

L4 delivered multiple skin benefits by strengthening the skin barrier, accelerating the skin repair process as well as soothing the skin and the scalp with anti-inflammaging effects. The observed efficacy validates L4 as a desirable skincare ingredient for topical treatment.

Advances in the Applications of Extracellular Vesicle for the Treatment of Skin Photoaging: A Comprehensive Review

Skin photoaging is a complex biological process characterized by the accumulation of oxidative damage and structural changes in the skin, resulting from chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Despite the growing demand for effective treatments, current therapeutic options for skin photoaging remain limited. However, emerging research has highlighted the potential of extracellular vesicles (EVs), including exosomes, micro-vesicles, apoptotic bodies and liposomes, as promising therapeutic agents in skin rejuvenation. EVs are involved in intercellular communication and can deliver bioactive molecules, including proteins, nucleic acids, and lipids, to recipient cells, thereby influencing various cellular processes. This comprehensive review aims to summarize the current research progress in the application of EVs for the treatment of skin photoaging, including their isolation and characterization methods, roles in skin homeostasis, therapeutic potential and clinical applications for skin photoaging. Additionally, challenges and future directions in EVs-based therapies for skin rejuvenation are discussed.

Human Skin Aging and the Anti-Aging Properties of Retinol

The skin is the most-extensive and -abundant tissue in the human body. Like many organs, as we age, human skin experiences gradual atrophy in both the epidermis and dermis. This can be primarily attributed to the diminishing population of epidermal stem cells and the reduction in collagen, which is the primary structural protein in the human body. The alterations occurring in the epidermis and dermis due to the aging process result in disruptions to the structure and functionality of the skin. This creates a microenvironment conducive to age-related skin conditions such as a compromised skin barrier, slowed wound healing, and the onset of skin cancer. This review emphasizes the recent molecular discoveries related to skin aging and evaluates preventive approaches, such as the use of topical retinoids. Topical retinoids have demonstrated promise in enhancing skin texture, diminishing fine lines, and augmenting the thickness of both the epidermal and dermal layers.

Approaches in line with human physiology to prevent skin aging

Skin aging is a complex process that is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors that impact the skin's protective functions and overall health. As the body's outermost layer, the skin plays a critical role in defending it against external threats, regulating body temperature, providing tactile sensation, and synthesizing vitamin D for bone health, immune function, and body homeostasis. However, as individuals age, the skin undergoes structural and functional changes, leading to impairments in these essential functions. In contemporary society, there is an increasing recognition of skin health as a significant indicator of overall wellbeing, resulting in a growing demand for anti-aging products and treatments. However, these products often have limitations in terms of safety, effective skin penetration, and potential systemic complications. To address these concerns, researchers are now focusing on approaches that are safer and better aligned with physiology of the skin. These approaches include adopting a proper diet and maintaining healthy lifestyle habits, the development of topical treatments that synchronize with the skin's circadian rhythm, utilizing endogenous antioxidant molecules, such as melatonin and natural products like polyphenols. Moreover, exploring alternative compounds for sun protection, such as natural ultraviolet (UV)-absorbing compounds, can offer safer options for shielding the skin from harmful radiation. Researchers are currently exploring the potential of adipose-derived stem cells, cell-free blood cell secretome (BCS) and other endogenous compounds for maintaining skin health. These approaches are more secure and more effective alternatives which are in line with human physiology to tackle skin aging. By emphasizing these innovative strategies, it is possible to develop effective treatments that not only slow down the skin aging process but also align better with the natural physiology of the skin. This review will focus on recent research in this field, highlighting the potential of these treatments as being safer and more in line with the skin's physiology in order to combat the signs of aging.

Natural Retinol Analogs Potentiate the Effects of Retinal on Aged and Photodamaged Skin: Results from In Vitro to Clinical Studies

INTRODUCTION

Plants are a source of natural ingredients with retinol-like properties that can deliver anti-aging benefits without the side effects typically associated with retinoid use. We hypothesized that by combining two such analogs, bakuchiol (BAK) and Vigna aconitifolia extract (VAE), with the potent retinoid retinal (RAL), the anti-photoaging potential of RAL could be enhanced without compromising its skin irritation profile. The purpose of this study was to demonstrate that BAK and VAE potentiate the anti-photoaging activity of RAL.

METHODS

Gene expression profiling of full-thickness reconstructed skin was first used to examine the impact of BAK or VAE in combination with RAL on skin biology. Next, the irritative potential of this combination, and its capacity to reverse key signs of photoaging in an ex vivo model was assessed. Finally, a proof-of-concept open label clinical study was performed to evaluate the anti-photoaging capacity and skin compatibility of a cosmetic formulation (tri-retinoid complex; 3RC) containing this complex in combination with other well characterized anti-photoaging ingredients.

RESULTS

In vitro profiling suggested that combining 0.1% RAL with BAK or VAE potentiates the effect of RAL on keratinocyte differentiation and skin barrier function without affecting its skin irritation profile. When formulated with other anti-photoaging ingredients, such as niacinamide and melatonin, 3RC reversed ultraviolet radiation-induced deficits in structural components of the dermal extracellular matrix, including hyaluronic acid and collagen. In vivo, it led to a reversal of clinical signs of age and photodamage, with statistically significant improvement to skin firmness (+5.6%), skin elasticity (+13.9%), wrinkle count (-43.2%), and skin tone homogeneity (+7.0%), observed within 28 days of once nightly use. Notably, the number of crow's feet wrinkles was reduced in 100% of subjects. Furthermore, 3RC was very well tolerated.

CONCLUSION

These data suggest that 3RC is a highly effective and well-tolerated treatment for photoaging.

Clinical and histologic findings after use of a novel combined retinol, tripeptide, and glaucine containing cream in the treatment of photo-aged skin

BACKGROUND

Neck skin is thinner and has a more delicate dermal layer than facial skin. The studied product was specifically formulated for the neck combining a hydrating delivery system with a trifunctional corrective technology composed of 0.2% pure retinol, 2.5% tripeptide concentrate, and 5.0% glaucine complex to help improvement in signs of aging.

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate cosmetic and histologic changes 3 months after treatment using immunostains for Type I collagen, Type III collagen, and glycosaminoglycan (GAGS). In addition, overall clinical improvement in photoaged skin was measured by both Griffith's photonumeric photoaging scale, photographic improvement, and questionnaires.

METHODS

This study was an open-label, blinded clinical trial evaluating a combined retinol, tripeptide, and glaucine containing cream in the treatment of photo-aged skin. The study enrolled a total of 20 healthy male or female subjects, who applied the product for 3 months to their face and neck.

RESULTS

Clinical as well histologic changes were consistent with improvement in all 20 subjects.

CONCLUSION

Use of a combined retinol, tripeptide, and glaucine containing cream led to both clinical and histologic improvement of phototoaging.

Paeoniflorin found in Paeonia lactiflora root extract inhibits melanogenesis by regulating melanin-related signal transduction in B16F10 cells

BACKGROUND

Skin pigmentation is modulated by various processes, with melanogenesis playing a key role. Melanin is synthesized by the catalysis of melanogenesis-related enzymes, such as tyrosinase and tyrosine-related proteins TRP-1 and TRP-2. Paeoniflorin is the main bioactive component of Paeonia suffruticosa Andr., Paeonia lactiflora., or Paeonia veitchii Lynch and has been used for centuries for its anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, and anti-carcinogenic properties.

AIMS & METHODS

In this study, melanin biosynthesis in mouse melanoma (B16F10) cells was induced using α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), and then cells were co-treated with paeoniflorin to evaluate its potential anti-melanogenic effect.

RESULTS

α-MSH stimulation increased melanin content, tyrosinase activity, and melanogenesis-related markers in a dose-dependent manner. However, treatment with paeoniflorin reversed α-MSH-induced upregulation of melanin content and tyrosinase activity. Furthermore, paeoniflorin inhibited cAMP response element-binding protein activation and TRP-1, TRP-2, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor protein expression in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells.

CONCLUSION

Overall, these findings show the potential of paeoniflorin as a depigmenting agent for cosmetic products.

An eco-friendly system for stabilization of retinol: A step towards attending performance with improved environmental respect

OBJECTIVE

Retinol (Vitamin A) is one of the most effective molecules for the treatment of skin aging. However, it degrades rapidly under the influence of light, oxygen, metal ions, and oxidizing agents. To prevent this, stabilizing systems are used commonly. Notably, butylated hydroxytoluene (2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol) (BHT) and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) salts exhibit excellent antioxidant and metal-chelating properties but are not eco-friendly. In this study, our goal was to develop a new eco-friendly stabilization system for retinol-based formulations such that the system does not interfere with retinol skin absorption, nor its clinical efficacy.

METHODS

An evaluation tool called the Sustainable Product Optimization Tool (SPOT) was used to assess the environmental performance of formulations containing retinol and the various stabilizers investigated. Accelerated stability tests were performed on formulations stored for 2 months at 4 and 45°C (ISO/TR Standard 18811 2018 directives). Long-term stability evaluation was done on formulations stored for 24-months at room temperature. Retinol skin absorption was assessed by the Franz cell method using human skin explants (OECD guideline 428). Finally, a clinical study was performed to evaluate the cosmetic performance of a 0.3% stabilized retinol formulation.

RESULTS

N,N'-ethylenediamine disuccinic acid ([S,S]-EDDS isomer) and pentaerythritol tetrakis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate) (PBHC) showed higher biodegradability and a reduced water footprint compared with those of BHT and EDTA. The SPOT simulation gave [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC a score of 10 versus 8.84 for EDTA + BHT. Moreover, [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC better controlled the chemical degradation of retinol compared with EDTA + BHT. Retinol skin absorption was also achieved in the case of a formulation containing [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC, and several skin attributes improved significantly after 12 weeks of product use, with over 75% of the panel perceiving benefits.

CONCLUSION

Regarding retinol stabilization, the PBHC + [S,S]-EDDS combination is an eco-friendlier and more effective alternative to BHT + EDTA.

Bioinspired polydopamine nanoparticles as efficient antioxidative and anti-inflammatory enhancers against UV-induced skin damage

Excessive and prolonged ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure causes photodamage, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis in human skin. Therefore, safe and effective sun protection is one of the most fundamental requirements. Living organisms tend to evolve various natural photoprotective mechanisms to avoid photodamage. Among them, melanin is the main functional component of the photoprotective system of human skin. Polydopamine (PDA) is synthesized as a mimic of natural melanin, however, its photoprotective efficiency and mechanism in protecting against skin damage and photoaging remain unclear. In this study, the novel sunscreen products based on melanin-inspired PDA nanoparticles (NPs) are rationally designed and prepared. We validate that PDA NPs sunscreen exhibits superior effects on photoprotection, which is achieved by the obstruction of epidermal hyperplasia, protection of the skin barrier, and resolution of inflammation. In addition, we find that PDA NPs are efficiently intake by keratinocytes, exhibiting robust ROS scavenging and DNA protection ability with minimal cytotoxicity. Intriguingly, PDA sunscreen has an influence on maintaining homeostasis of the dermis, displaying an anti-photoaging property. Taken together, the biocompatibility and full photoprotective properties of PDA sunscreen display superior performance to those of commercial sunscreen. This work provides new insights into the development of a melanin-mimicking material for sunscreens.

Human nutritional relevance and suggested nutritional guidelines for vitamin A5/X and provitamin A5/X

In the last century, vitamin A was identified that included the nutritional relevant vitamin A1 / provitamin A1, as well as the vitamin A2 pathway concept. Globally, nutritional guidelines have focused on vitamin A1 with simplified recommendations and calculations based solely on vitamin A. The vitamin A / provitamin A terminology described vitamin A with respect to acting as a precursor of 11-cis-retinal, the chromophore of the visual pigment, as well as retinoic acid(s), being ligand(s) of the nuclear hormone receptors retinoic acid receptors (RARs) α, β and γ. All-trans-retinoic acid was conclusively shown to be the endogenous RAR ligand, while the concept of its isomer 9-cis-retinoic acid, being "the" endogenous ligand of the retinoid-X receptors (RXRs), remained inconclusive. Recently, 9-cis-13,14-dihydroretinoic acid was conclusively reported as an endogenous RXR ligand, and a direct nutritional precursor was postulated in 2018 and further confirmed by Rühl, Krezel and de Lera in 2021. This was further termed vitamin A5/X / provitamin A5/X. In this review, a new vitamin A5/X / provitamin A5/X concept is conceptualized in parallel to the vitamin A(1) / provitamin A(1) concept for daily dietary intake and towards dietary guidelines, with a focus on the existing national and international regulations for the physiological and nutritional relevance of vitamin A5/X. The aim of this review is to summarize available evidence and to emphasize gaps of knowledge regarding vitamin A5/X, based on new and older studies and proposed future directions as well as to stimulate and propose adapted nutritional regulations.

Photoaging and Topical Rejuvenation

Photoaging is a complex process of skin changes associated with chronic ultraviolet exposure. Prevention with photoprotection and treatment with topical retinoids are the core components of a topical antiaging regimen. Other topicals such as hydroquinone, vitamin C, niacinamide, and alpha hydroxyl acid can be added based on specific concerns. However, caution must be used with some of these products as the stability and absorption are major considerations. A simple topical regimen will reduce irritability and enhance compliance.

Blueberry Supplementation and Skin Health

Environmental stressors such as air pollutants, ozone, and UV radiation are among the most noxious outdoor stressors affecting human skin and leading to premature skin aging. To prevent the extrinsic aging, the skin is equipped with an effective defensive system. However, cutaneous defense mechanisms can be overwhelmed through chronic exposure to environmental pollutants. Recent studies have suggested that the topical usage of natural compounds, such as blueberries, could be a good strategy to prevent skin damage from the environment. Indeed, blueberries contain bioactive compounds found to induce an active skin response against the environmental noxious effects. In this review, results from recent studies on this topic are discussed in order to build the argument for blueberries to possibly be an effective agent for skin health. In addition, we hope to highlight the need for further research to elucidate the mechanisms behind the use of both topical application and dietary supplementation with blueberries to bolster cutaneous systems and defensive mechanisms.

The Health Literacy of Retinol Cream Usage Among Female Students in the Faculty of Artificial Intelligence at Al-Balqa Applied University

INTRODUCTION

Considering people's tendency to self-treatment, efforts to address the broad aspects of health literacy are extremely important. The study aimed to find out the level of health literacy related to the use of retinol creams among female undergraduate students of the Faculty of Artificial Intelligence at Al-Balqa Applied University.

METHODS

This study adopted an analytical descriptive research methodology by designing and applying a questionnaire tool. The questionnaire consisted, after arbitration and testing its validity and stability, of 15 items. Each item represents one of the indicators for measuring the level of health literacy about the use of retinol creams. The sample of the study was a random sample of female students in the Faculty of Artificial Intelligence at Al-Balqa Applied University.

RESULTS

A total of 221 undergraduate female students were enrolled in the study. The most important results were that the arithmetic mean for estimating the level of health culture among female students in the study on the use of retinol creams was 3.117 out of 5, with a relative weight percentage of 62.3% and an average total score on the general level of indicators of total health culture.

CONCLUSION

This study provided insights into the health literacy related to the use of retinol creams among female students. While the students demonstrated a high level of health education in some aspects, there were areas where their knowledge and practices could be improved. These findings can contribute to the development of educational programs and interventions aimed at promoting the safe and informed use of retinol creams among university students.

A novel optical coherence tomography-based in vitro method of anti-aging skin analysis using 3D skin wrinkle mimics

BACKGROUND

Wrinkles represent a characteristic symptom of skin aging. In recent years, various studies have focused on their prevention and/or cure. However, clinical tests are still the only method available to directly detect and evaluate the anti-wrinkle efficacy of various substances. Moreover, no in vitro strategy for such anti-aging skin analysis has been reported. Therefore, in this study, we aimed to develop a novel technology to overcome these limitations.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Full-thickness (FT) skin wrinkle mimics with various widths and depths were fabricated using a collagen stamping method. These were analyzed and compared using 2D and 3D Swept Source-Optical Coherence Tomography (SS-OCT) imaging technologies.

RESULTS

SS-OCT demonstrated superficial and cross-sectional images of the wrinkle mimics, and the size of the wrinkles was validated using image analysis. Retinoic acid treatment significantly decreased both the depth and width of wrinkles formed in the FT skin wrinkle mimics.

CONCLUSIONS

Using 3D tissue engineering and SS-OCT imaging technologies, we developed a novel in vitro technique that can directly detect skin wrinkles. This significantly efficient method could lead to an alternative strategy for animal experiments and preclinical anti-aging research on the skin.

Senotherapeutic peptide treatment reduces biological age and senescence burden in human skin models

Cellular senescence is known to play a role in age-related skin function deterioration which potentially influences longevity. Here, a two-step phenotypic screening was performed to identify senotherapeutic peptides, leading to the identification of Peptide (Pep) 14. Pep 14 effectively decreased human dermal fibroblast senescence burden induced by Hutchinson-Gilford Progeria Syndrome (HGPS), chronological aging, ultraviolet-B radiation (UVB), and etoposide treatment, without inducing significant toxicity. Pep 14 functions via modulation of PP2A, an understudied holoenzyme that promotes genomic stability and is involved in DNA repair and senescence pathways. At the single-cell level, Pep 14 modulates genes that prevent senescence progression by arresting the cell cycle and enhancing DNA repair, which consequently reduce the number of cells progressing to late senescence. When applied on aged ex vivo skin, Pep 14 promoted a healthy skin phenotype with structural and molecular resemblance to young ex vivo skin, decreased the expression of senescence markers, including SASP, and reduced the DNA methylation age. In summary, this work shows the safe reduction of the biological age of ex vivo human skins by a senomorphic peptide.

Efficacy of topical vitamin C in melasma and photoaging: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Vitamin C is a micronutrient present in high concentrations in normal skin and a highly prescribed cosmeceutical, well known for protecting against ultraviolet-induced pigmentation and regulating collagen production. However, there is a lack of studies evaluating the efficacy of topical vitamin C in photoaging and melasma, with this systematic review being the first to assess the existing evidence.

AIM

This systematic review aims to assess whether topical vitamin C could be effective in reversing photoaging signs and treating melasma.

METHODS

Prospective, randomized controlled trials assessing protocols with topically applied vitamin C in patients with melasma or photodamage were searched in Medline, CENTRAL, and Scopus databases until the 12th of May 2022. Risk of bias was conducted in accordance with Cochrane Collaboration's tool for assessing the risk of bias in randomized trials, using RevMan 5.0.

RESULTS

Seven publications were included, with 139 volunteers in total. Studies that evaluated the topography of skin indicated that the treated skin appeared smoother and less wrinkled, which was supported by biopsies data. On objective assessments of pigmentation, there was a significant lightening of the skin treated. Hydration improved equally in the vitamin C and placebo-treated sites.

CONCLUSIONS

This study revealed that vitamin C is effective in treating uneven, wrinkled skin and has depigmenting properties, but long-term use may be needed to achieve noticeable changes. Q-switched Nd:YAG laser-associated protocols appear beneficial in enhancing vitamin C effects. Topical vitamin C may be a suitable alternative for melasma and photoaging, but more studies are needed to confirm these results and assess the ideal vitamin C concentration.

Dermatological Management of Aged Skin

The subject of the work concerns the dermatological management of patients mainly with aged skin. The purpose of the work was to present the basic techniques and preparations which are performed by dermatologists in the treatment of aged skin. There are dermatological treatments related to the treatment of skin diseases and cosmetic treatments which are mainly related to skin care. In this work, the method of literature research was applied. On the basis of books and journal articles on dermatological and cosmetic procedures for aged skin, an analysis of treatment types was made. Then, the results of this analysis were presented in the paper under discussion. The paper presents information on the skin and its properties. The structure and functions of the skin, aging processes and characteristics of aged skin were discussed. Then, the possibilities of reducing the visible signs of skin aging through the use of invasive and non-invasive dermatological and cosmetological treatments were given, and the most important components of preparations used supportively in combating skin aging processes were discussed.

Current Insights into the Formulation and Delivery of Therapeutic and Cosmeceutical Agents for Aging Skin

“Successful aging” counters the traditional idea of aging as a disease and is increasingly equated with minimizing age signs on the skin, face, and body. From this stems the interest in preventative aesthetic dermatology that might help with the healthy aging of skin, help treat or prevent certain cutaneous disorders, such as skin cancer, and help delay skin aging by combining local and systemic methods of therapy, instrumental devices, and invasive procedures. This review will discuss the main mechanisms of skin aging and the potential mechanisms of action for commercial products already on the market, highlighting the issues related to the permeation of the skin from different classes of compounds, the site of action, and the techniques employed to overcome aging. The purpose is to give an overall perspective on the main challenges in formulation development, especially nanoparticle formulations, which aims to defeat or slow down skin aging, and to highlight new market segments, such as matrikines and matrikine-like peptides. In conclusion, by applying enabling technologies such as those delivery systems outlined here, existing agents can be repurposed or fine-tuned, and traditional but unproven treatments can be optimized for efficacious dosing and safety.

A Study of Efficacy and Safety of Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) Lotion on Facial Skin in Photoaged Healthy Adults

Background Facial skin has an essential cosmetic function in both men and women, and photoaged skin can affect the quality of life in healthy people. Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) which is also called Indian ginseng has adaptogenic properties and is used in traditional Indian medicine to maintain balance, energize, and rejuvenate. Objective This randomized, double-blind, and placebo-controlled study assessed the efficacy and safety of topical application of lotion containing 8% standardized Ashwagandha root extract on improvement of skin parameters in the photoaged facial skin of healthy subjects. Methods Fifty-six healthy men and women aged between 18 and 60 years with Fitzpatrick phototype III-VI skin grade were randomized to receive the topical application (lotion on facial skin) of either Ashwagandha 8% (AG, n=28), or an identical placebo (PL, n=28) for 60 days. The primary outcome was the change from baseline on day 60 in the scores for global physician assessment scoring for the five dermatological signs (skin wrinkles, pores, hydration/moisture, skin brightness/tone, and pigmentation) on facial skin. Secondary outcomes were changes from baseline in the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin index, hydration, and skin elasticity (R2 ratio). Another efficacy outcome was quality of life using the health-specific Short Form Health Survey-12 (SF-12). Safety was assessed using local reactions and adverse events. Three (1 AG, 2 PL) patients were lost to follow-up and per-protocol (PP) data included 53 patients (27 AG, 26 PL). For measurement data, repeated measures analysis of variance (ANOVA) was used to assess treatment effect at different time periods in the PP dataset (n=53). Two groups were compared for differences using a t-test for continuous data or a Mann-Whitney 'U' test for ordinal data. Adverse events were compared between two groups using the chi-square test. Results Greater reduction (p<0.0001) in total physician assessment scores from baseline to day 60 was observed with AG (-74.69%) compared to PL (-48.68%). There was a greater improvement in TEWL, skin hydration, and skin elasticity (R2 ratio) with AG as compared to placebo (p<0.0001). However, the change in melanin index was similar in the two groups at the end of day 60 (p=0.969). The percentage increase in melanin index from baseline to day 60 in the PP dataset was by -2.82% with AG and -1.78% with PL, whereas the percentage reduction in TEWL from baseline to day 60 in the PP dataset was by -15.12% with AG and -8.34% with PL. Similarly, greater percentage improvements were seen with AG as compared to PL for skin hydration (20.66% with AG and 9.5% with PL) and elasticity was assessed by the R2 ratio (16.34% with AG and 3.73% with PL). Adverse events were comparable in the two groups. Conclusions Topical application of a lotion containing Ashwagandha standardized root extract improves the skin condition and quality of life in photoaged healthy individuals. Further studies with different skin types and standard comparators are warranted to substantiate these claims of benefit.

The synergistic effect of retinyl propionate and hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin aging

BACKGROUND

Aging is responsible for the majority of skin and soft tissue remolding in humans. Retinol and its derivatives or retinoids effectively intervene skin aging process. Nevertheless, retinoids usually induce skin intolerance, especially among the Chinese, and thus, their application to prevent skin aging is yet to be well accepted. The study of optimal composition and concentration of retinoids is necessary to offer strong antiaging efficacies with minimum irritations. Therefore, a better understanding of retinol and its derivatives is acutely needed to develop strategies to combat skin aging.

OBJECTIVE

In this study, we aimed to determine the optimal ratio of two retinol derivatives-hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) and retinyl propionate (RP) in terms of dermal remodeling and skin aging prevention-and to investigate their synergistic antiaging effects both in vitro and in vivo.

METHODS

An in vitro human foreskin fibroblast (HFF-1) cell model was established to evaluate the cell viability of HPR and/or RP treatment. In addition, the antiaging and retinol receptor genes expressions in HFF-1 cells cotreated with HPR and RP were quantified. The in vivo adverse reaction evaluation of skincare serums containing various levels of retinol or the optimal HPR and RP combination termed Gravi-A was performed by 24 h patch tests in 33 subjects prior to the clinical research. Last but not the least, clinical research with 42 Chinese urban women was conducted to assess the in vivo antiaging efficacy of the skincare serum containing this optimal retinoid combination.

RESULTS

The combination of HPR and RP at the weight ratio of 5:9 was shown to achieve the optimal in vitro antiaging performance. Coadministration of 5 μg/mL HPR and 9 μg/mL RP to HFF-1 cells promoted their proliferation at 24 h and synergistically enhanced the expressions of type IV collagen, CRBP-I, and RARB genes. In addition, the skincare serum containing HPR and RP combination at 5:9 weight ratio demonstrated superior in vivo anti-wrinkle and skin elasticity improvement benefits without any adverse reactions, while retinol in the same concentration exerted much higher adverse effect. Skin wrinkles, skin smoothness, TEWL, skin elasticity R2 and R5 were improved by 8.3%, 11.9%, 25.7%, 14.5%, and 22.6%, respectively, after 8-week use.

CONCLUSION

Our results indicated the advanced antiaging effect of HPR and RP combination both in vitro and in vivo. In addition, little adverse effect was observed in this study, in comparison with retinol. This combination named as Gravi-A is a potential therapeutic strategy to prevent skin aging, especially for Chinese women.

Benefits of the Dermocosmetic Mineral 89 Probiotic Fractions Adjunct to Topical Retinoids for Anti-Aging Benefits

Purpose

Tretinoin is a topical gold standard for photoaging treatment. However, patient adherence can be impaired by local tolerability in the first 1-2 weeks of treatment. Mineral 89 Probiotic Fractions^® (M89PF) containing Vichy volcanic mineralizing water^®, probiotic fractions, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and tocopherol was developed to fulfill the need for adjunctive products that can reinforce skin barrier and manage retinoid induced irritation.

Patients and Methods

The study included 38 women, aged 44-60 years, phototype II-VI, applying 0.025% tretinoin gel once nightly for 84 days. For 28 days, one hemi face was treated with M89PF and sunscreen SPF 50+ while other hemi face received sunscreen only. Then, M89PF application was changed to full face. Evaluations were performed at days 0, 7, 28 and 84. Erythema, dryness, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance were assessed by a dermatologist. Tolerability was evaluated through self-assessment questionnaire. Skin hydration levels, inflammatory and oxidative stress biomarkers were analyzed by immunological assay: Interleukin(IL)-8, IL1-alpha, IL1-Receptor Antagonist (IL-1Ra), Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), Catalase and Superoxide Dismutase (SOD).

Results

Hemiface analysis showed that erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance, pore appearance, hydration, tightness, dryness, burning, itching and stinging sensations were improved (p<0.05) on the M89PF side. At full face analysis on D84, erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance were improved compared to D0 (p<0.001). Tightness, dryness, burning, itching and stinging were reduced when compared to D7 (p<0.05). Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) and Skindex 16 showed improvement in quality of life (p<0.05). IL-1RA increased at D28 (p=0.003) and PGE2 decreased at D28 and D84 compared to D0 (p<0.01).

Conclusion

M89PF reduced retinoid induced irritation with a good tolerability profile and, used as an adjunct to topical tretinoin, significantly improved skin hydration, erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance.

Passive Enhancement of Retinol Skin Penetration by Jojoba Oil Measured Using the Skin Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeation Assay (Skin-PAMPA): A Pilot Study

Introduction

Retinol is known to have positive benefits on the skin including enhancements in barrier function, increased epidermal thickness, reductions in fine lines and wrinkles and reductions in hyperpigmentation. Improved methods to enhance the penetration of retinol are desirable.

Methods

A study was conducted to examine if addition of natural jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis) oil might help passively enhance the penetration of retinol through the skin's lipid barrier. The model used to examine the passive penetration of the retinol is the skin parallel artificial membrane permeation assay (Skin-PAMPA). In this study, three formulations were examined. The formulations included two control blends: a moisturizing emulsion without retinol and the same product containing 1.0% retinol without jojoba oil. The remaining formulation contained similar concentrations of retinol with 10% jojoba oil. The studies were conducted by applying the products to the Skin-PAMPA models at 37°C/5% CO₂ for 16 hours and then extraction of the acceptor reservoir with cyclohexane (ratio 1:5 acceptor fluid to cyclohexane). The resulting acceptor reservoir cyclohexane solutions were analyzed for retinol by High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC).

Results

The formulations without retinol showed no indications of retinol penetration by HPLC. The control formulation with 1.0% retinol demonstrated that retinol had permeated the membrane in the 16-hour timeframe with a measured Area Under the Curve (AUC) of 7 units. Analysis of the formulation containing 1.0% retinol and 10% jojoba oil indicated retinol had permeated with a AUC of 285 units, a nearly 40-fold increase in active retinol permeation.

Discussion

The ability for jojoba oil to directly act to help skin permeation of a key skin care active like retinol has not been previously demonstrated. This potential for jojoba oil to enhance passive skin penetration of critical skin actives, like retinol, can help to improve the performance of skin care products employing active topical ingredients.

Significant Reversal of Facial Wrinkle, Pigmented Spot and Roughness by Daily Application of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate-Containing Skin Products for 12 Months-An 11-Year Longitudinal Skin Aging Rejuvenation Study

Facial skin aging is an important psychophysical and social concern, especially in women. We compared facial parameters reflecting aging of the skin in 1999 and 2010 in 86 female volunteers. Then, all subjects applied three Galactomyces ferment filtrate-containing skin care products (G3 products; SK-II Facial Treatment Essence, SK-II Cellumination Essence, and SK-II Skin Signature Cream) twice daily for 12 months (M), with the skin parameters being measured at 2 M, 8 M, and 12 M during this period. Facial skin aging parameters such as wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, and roughness significantly deteriorated during the 11-year interval. This 11-year aging process was associated with reduced hydration and increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Notably, treatment with G3 products significantly and cumulatively increased skin hydration with a correlated reduction of TEWL during the 12 M treatment period. Such treatment also significantly and cumulatively reversed the 11-year facial skin aging in the three parameters of wrinkles, spots, and roughness. These results suggest that facial skin retains the potential to recover from the aging process when it is applied with appropriate cosmetic agents.

Regulation of epidermal proliferation and hair follicle cycling by synthetic photostable retinoid EC23

BACKGROUND

Retinoid signaling is an important regulator of the epidermis and skin appendages. Therefore, synthetic retinoids have been developed for therapeutic use for skin disorders such as psoriasis and acne.

AIMS

In previous studies, we showed how the photostable retinoid EC23 induces neuronal differentiation in stem cell-like cell populations, and here, we aim to investigate its ability to influence epidermal and hair follicle growth.

METHODS

EC23 influence on skin biology was investigated initially in cultures of monolayer keratinocytes and three-dimentional in vitro models of skin, and finally in in vivo studies of mice back skin.

RESULTS

EC23 induces keratinocyte hyperproliferation in vitro and in vivo, and when applied to mouse skin increases the number of involucrin-positive suprabasal cell layers. These phenotypic changes are similar in skin treated with the natural retinoid all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA); however, EC23 is more potent; a tenfold lower dose of EC23 is sufficient to induce epidermal thickening, and resulting hyperproliferation is sustained for a longer time period after first dose. EC23 treatment resulted in a disorganized stratum corneum, reduced cell surface lipids and compromised barrier, similar to ATRA treatment. However, EC23 induces a rapid telogen to anagen transition and hair re-growth in 6-week-old mice with synchronously resting back skin follicles. The impact of EC23 on the hair cycle was surprising as similar results have not been seen with ATRA.

CONCLUSIONS

These data suggest that synthetic retinoid EC23 is a useful tool in exploring the turnover and differentiation of cells and has a potent effect on skin physiology.

Depigmenting topical therapy based on a synergistic combination of compounds targeting the key pathways involved in melasma pathophysiology

Melasma has a complex pathophysiology with different cell types and signalling pathways involved. Paracrine factors secreted by keratinocytes, fibroblasts and endothelial cells act on melanocytes and stimulate melanogenesis. These paracrine factors are involved in the oxidative stress, inflammatory, vascular and hormonal pathways, among others. Damage of the dermoepidermal barrier also occurs and facilitates melanin deposition in the dermis, also known as dermal or mixed melasma. We used artificial intelligence tools to define the best combination of compounds for skin pigmentation inhibition. Mathematical models suggested the combination of retinol, diosmin and ferulic acid to be the most effective one. In vitro cellular tyrosinase activity assay proved that this combination had a synergistic depigmenting effect. Further assays proved that the combination could inhibit key pathways involved in melasma by downregulating ET-1 and COX-2 gene expression and IBMX-induced dendricity in human melanocytes, and upregulated the gene expression of IL-1b, TIMP3 and several endogenous antioxidant enzymes. The combination also reduced melanin levels in a phototype VI 3D epidermis model. These results indicate that the combination of retinol, diosmin and ferulic acid is an effective synergistic complex for the treatment of melasma by regulating the key molecular pathways involved in skin hyperpigmentation pathophysiology.

In a Preliminary Study on Human Subjects, a Cosmetic Cream Containing a Harungana madagascariensis Plant Extract Induces Similar Anti-Aging Effects to a Retinol-Containing Cream

Retinoids are the most effective anti-aging ingredients. Yet, their use can result in adverse reactions. Even bakuchiol, a natural functional analog, can lead to contact dermatitis. We previously showed that a Harungana madagascariensis (Lam. ex Poir.) plant extract (HME) presents retinol-like properties in vitro. Therefore, we performed a preliminary analysis of the anti-aging potential of a cream containing HME on 46 subjects. The participants applied a HME cream on half of their face and one forearm. The effects induced were compared to those produced by a retinol cream applied to the contralateral side. Clinical evaluations indicate that the two creams rapidly (28 days) improve wrinkles underneath the eyes, ptosis, color homogeneity, smoothness, plumpness, firmness, and elasticity of the facial skin. The improvement of crow's feet is only significant after 56 days. For all clinical signs, the effects of both creams are indistinguishable. Instrumental measurements of silicon replica from the eye contour region indicate that the wrinkle surface reduction is already noticeable after 28 days with the HME and retinol cream, while it takes 56 days to have a significant depth decrease. Only the retinol cream improves wrinkle length after 56 days. Ultrasound assessment of forearm skin revealed that the HME cream improves superficial dermis density as early as 28 days with further improvement at day 56, timepoint at which improvement is at the limit of significance with the retinol cream. These preliminary results indicate that HME has similar in vivo functional properties to retinol for reducing the severity of aging signs. Future works, including a bona fide clinical study, are needed to confirm these findings.

Improvements in skin quality parameters in postmenopausal participants after use of topical growth factor serum

BACKGROUND

Photodamage can induce skin aging processes that can be particularly concerning for postmenopausal women. Growth factors from hypoxic human fibroblast-conditioned media have demonstrated improvements in skin quality parameters.

AIMS

The aim of the study was to assess efficacy and tolerability of topical combination-treatment hypoxic growth factor serum (TNS A+) in postmenopausal women with moderate to severe facial photodamage.

PATIENTS/METHODS

In this 12-week, open-label, single-center study, participants used TNS A+ serum twice daily. Postmenopausal women (40-65 years of age) with Fitzpatrick skin types I-VI and modified Griffiths scale scores 4-9 were eligible. Clinical and participant-reported assessments were evaluated at Weeks 6 and 12. Statistical significance was defined as p ≤ 0.05.

RESULTS

There were 17 enrolled participants. TNS A+ treatment demonstrated significant improvements from baseline in fine lines and wrinkles in periocular, forehead, and cheek areas at Week 12 and the perioral area at Weeks 6 and 12. Significant improvements from baseline in coarse lines and wrinkles were observed for the perioral area at Week 12 and periocular and cheek areas at Weeks 6 and 12. Improvements in overall photodamage, skin tone evenness, and tactile roughness were significantly greater at Weeks 6 and 12 versus baseline. Most participants reported TNS A+ made their skin look and feel smooth, soft, and rejuvenated; improved skin radiance; made lines and wrinkles less apparent; and improved skin texture. No treatment-related adverse events were reported.

CONCLUSIONS

The TNS A+ regimen was well tolerated and provided significant improvements in skin quality in postmenopausal women with moderate to severe facial photodamage.

Effect of ellagic acid and retinoic acid on collagen and elastin production by human dermal fibroblasts

BACKGROUND

Elastin is a fibrous protein key to the structure and support of skin as well as other organ tissues. Elastic fibers are located in the skin's dermal layer and make up approximately 2%-4% of the fat-free dry weight of the dermis in the skin of adults. Aging causes the progressive degradation of elastin fibers. Loss of these fibers can cause skin sagging and wrinkling, loss of healthy blood vessels and lung capacity, aneurysms, and Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease (COPD).

OBJECTIVE

We hypothesized that ellagic acid, a polyphenol, will increase elastin in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) due to polyphenols' elastin binding properties.

METHOD

We treated HDF's with 2 μg/ml ellagic acid for 28 days to see the elastin deposition in HDF cell cultures. To test this, we treated HDFs with polyphenols ellagic acid for 3, 7, 14 and 21 days. For comparison purposes, we included a group of ellagic acid and retinoic acid since retinoic acid is already in the market for elastin regeneration purposes.

RESULTS

When ellagic acid and retinoic acid were introduced together, insoluble elastin and collagen deposition were significantly higher in HDFs compared to other groups.

CONCLUSION

Polyphenols and retinoic acid can improve skin extracellular matrix production of elastin and collagen and may improve skin fine wrinkles.

Flexible polymeric patch based nanotherapeutics against non-cancer therapy

Flexible polymeric patches find widespread applications in biomedicine because of their biological and tunable features including excellent patient compliance, superior biocompatibility and biodegradation, as well as high loading capability and permeability of drug. Such polymeric patches are classified into microneedles (MNs), hydrogel, microcapsule, microsphere and fiber depending on the formed morphology. The combination of nanomaterials with polymeric patches allows for improved advantages of increased curative efficacy and lowered systemic toxicity, promoting on-demand and regulated drug administration, thus providing the great potential to their clinic translation. In this review, the category of flexible polymeric patches that are utilized to integrate with nanomaterials is briefly presented and their advantages in bioapplications are further discussed. The applications of nanomaterials embedded polymeric patches in non-cancerous diseases were also systematically reviewed, including diabetes therapy, wound healing, dermatological disease therapy, bone regeneration, cardiac repair, hair repair, obesity therapy and some immune disease therapy. Alternatively, the limitations, latest challenges and future perspectives of such biomedical therapeutic devices are addressed.

•

The most explored polymeric patches, such as microneedle, hydrogel, microsphere, microcapsule, and fiber are summarized.

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Polymeric patches integrated with a diversity of nanomaterials are systematically overviewed in non-cancer therapy.

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The future prospective for the development of polymeric patch based nanotherapeutics is discussed.

Natural Compounds and Products from an Anti-Aging Perspective

Aging is a very complex process that is accompanied by a degenerative impairment in many of the major functions of the human body over time. This inevitable process is influenced by hereditary factors, lifestyle, and environmental influences such as xenobiotic pollution, infectious agents, UV radiation, diet-borne toxins, and so on. Many external and internal signs and symptoms are related with the aging process and senescence, including skin dryness and wrinkles, atherosclerosis, diabetes, neurodegenerative disorders, cancer, etc. Oxidative stress, a consequence of the imbalance between pro- and antioxidants, is one of the main provoking factors causing aging-related damages and concerns, due to the generation of highly reactive byproducts such as reactive oxygen and nitrogen species during the metabolism, which result in cellular damage and apoptosis. Antioxidants can prevent these processes and extend healthy longevity due to the ability to inhibit the formation of free radicals or interrupt their propagation, thereby lowering the level of oxidative stress. This review focuses on supporting the antioxidant system of the organism by balancing the diet through the consumption of the necessary amount of natural ingredients, including vitamins, minerals, polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA), essential amino acids, probiotics, plants’ fibers, nutritional supplements, polyphenols, some phytoextracts, and drinking water.

Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi regulates REV-ERBα/BMAL1 to protect against skin aging in mice

Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi (SBG) is a traditional Chinese medicine widely used to treat disorders such as hypertension, dysentery and hemorrhaging. Here, we aimed to assess the pharmacological effects of SBG on skin aging and to investigate the underlying mechanisms. Mice with skin aging were established by treatment with D-galactose and ultraviolet-B. SBG (topical application) showed a protective effect on skin aging in mice, as evidenced by less formation of skin wrinkles, higher levels of SOD (superoxide dismutase) and HYP (hydroxyproline) as well as a lower level of MDA (malondialdehyde). In the meantime, skin MMP-1 and p53 expression were lower, epidermis was thinner and collagen amount was higher in SBG-treated mice. Anti-skin aging effects of SBG were also confirmed in NIH3T3 and HaCaT cells, as well as in mouse primary dermal fibroblasts and human primary epidermal keratinocytes. Furthermore, we found that loss of Rev-erbα (a known repressor of Bmal1) up-regulated skin BMAL1 (a clock component and a known anti-aging factor) and ameliorated skin aging in mice. Moreover, SBG dose-dependently increased the expression of BMAL1 in the skin of aged mice and in senescent NIT3H3 cells. In addition, based on a combination of Gal4 chimeric, luciferase reporter and expression assays, SBG was identified as an antagonist of REV-ERBα and thus an inducer of BMAL1 expression. In conclusion, SBG antagonizes REV-ERBα to up-regulate BMAL1 and to protect against skin aging in mice.

Spectroscopy of Retinoic Acid at the Air-Water Interface

The spectroscopy of all-trans-retinoic acid (ATRA), an important molecule of biological origin that can be found in nature, is investigated at the air-water interface using UV-Vis and IR reflection spectroscopy. We employ a UV-Vis reflection absorption spectroscopy (RAS) experiment along with infrared reflection absorption spectroscopy (IR-RAS) to probe ATRA at the air-water interface. We elucidate the factors influencing the spectroscopy of ATRA at the air-water interface and compare its spectra at the water surface with results of bulk samples obtained with conventional spectroscopic methods and computational chemistry. Monolayers of pure ATRA as well as mixed ATRA with stearic-d₃₅ acid were prepared, and the spectroscopy reveals that ATRA forms J-aggregates with itself, causing a significant redshift of its S₀ to S₁ electronic transition. Pure ATRA monolayers are found to be unstable at the air-water interface and are lost from the surface over time due to the formation of aggregates. The mixture of ATRA and stearic-d₃₅ acid has been shown to stabilize the monolayers and inhibit the loss of surface ATRA. On the basis of our observations, we propose that ATRA could be a significant photosensitizer in natural aqueous environments.