Another Reason for Using Caffeine in Dermocosmetics: Sunscreen Adjuvant

Coffea arabica: An Emerging Active Ingredient in Dermato-Cosmetic Applications

Background: Coffea arabica, commonly known as Arabica coffee, has garnered attention in recent years for its potential applications in dermato-cosmetic formulations. This review aims to critically evaluate the emerging role of Coffea arabica as an active ingredient in skin care products, focusing on its bioactive compounds derived from both the leaves and beans, mechanisms of action, and efficacy in dermatological applications. A comparative analysis between the bioactive profiles of the leaves and beans is also presented to elucidate their respective contributions to dermato-cosmetic efficacy. Results: This review synthesizes findings from various studies that highlight the presence of key bioactive compounds in Coffea arabica, including caffeine, chlorogenic acids, and flavonoids. Notably, the leaves exhibit a higher concentration of certain phenolic compounds compared to the beans, suggesting unique properties that may enhance skin health. These compounds have demonstrated significant anticellulite, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-aging, antibacterial, and moisturizing properties. Discussion: This article delves into the biochemical pathways through which bioactive compounds derived from both the leaves and beans of Coffea arabica exert their beneficial effects on skin and hair health. Furthermore, this review highlights the growing trend of incorporating natural ingredients in cosmetic formulations and the consumer demand for products with scientifically substantiated benefits. Conclusions: The findings of this review underscore the potential of Coffea arabica as a valuable active ingredient in dermato-cosmetic applications. Its multifaceted bioactivity suggests that it can contribute significantly to skin health and cosmetic efficacy. Future research should focus on clinical trials to further validate these benefits and explore optimal formulation strategies for enhanced delivery and stability in cosmetic products.

Comprehensive Biosafety Profile of Carbomer-Based Hydrogel Formulations Incorporating Phosphorus Derivatives

Determining the safety of a newly developed experimental product is a crucial condition for its medical use, especially for clinical trials. In this regard, four hydrogel-type formulations were manufactured, all of which were based on carbomer (Blank-CP940) and encapsulated with caffeine (CAF-CP940), phosphorus derivatives (phenyl phosphinic (CAF-S1-CP940) and 2-carboxyethyl phenyl phosphinic acids (CAF-S2-CP940)). The main aim of this research was to provide a comprehensive outline of the biosafety profile of the above-mentioned hydrogels. The complex in vitro screening (cell viability, cytotoxicity, morphological changes in response to exposure, and changes in nuclei morphology) on two types of healthy skin cell lines (HaCaT-human keratinocytes and JB6 Cl 41-5a-murine epidermal cells) exhibited a good biosafety profile when both cell lines were treated for 24 h with 150 μg/mL of each hydrogel. A comprehensive analysis of the hydrogel's impact on the genetic profile of HaCaT cells sustains the in vitro experiments. The biosafety profile was completed with the in vivo and in ovo assays. The outcome revealed that the developed hydrogels exerted good biocompatibility after topical application on BALB/c nude mice's skin. It also revealed a lack of toxicity after exposure to the hen's chicken embryo. Further investigations are needed, regarding the in vitro and in vivo therapeutic efficacy and safety for long-term use and potential clinical translatability.

Myconoside and Calceolarioside E Restrain UV-Induced Skin Photoaging by Activating NRF2-Mediated Defense Mechanisms

Chronic and excessive ultraviolet (UVA/UVB) irradiation exposure is known as a major contributor to premature skin aging, which leads to excessive reactive oxygen species generation, disturbed extracellular matrix homeostasis, DNA damage, and chronic inflammation. Sunscreen products are the major preventive option against UVR-induced photodamage, mostly counteracting the acute skin effects and only mildly counteracting accelerated aging. Therefore, novel anti-photoaging and photopreventive compounds are a subject of increased scientific interest. Our previous investigations revealed that the endemic plant Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. (HRE) activates the antioxidant defense through an NRF2-mediated mechanism in neutrophiles. In the present study, we aimed to investigate the photoprotective potential of HRE and two of its specialized compounds-the phenylethanoid glycosides myconoside (MYC) and calceolarioside E (CAL)-in UVA/UVB-stimulated human keratinocytes in an in vitro model of photoaging. The obtained data demonstrated that the application of HRE, MYC, and CAL significantly reduced intracellular ROS formation in UVR-exposed HaCaT cells. The NRF2/PGC-1α and TGF-1β/Smad/Wnt signaling pathways were pointed out as having a critical role in the observed CAL- and MYC-induced photoprotective effect. Collectively, CAL is worth further evaluation as a potent natural NRF2 activator and a promising photoprotective agent that leads to the prevention of UVA/UVB-induced premature skin aging.

Use of sisal industrial waste (Agave sisalana Perrine) in sustainable and multifunctional cosmetic products

OBJECTIVE

Sisal is a common stiff fibre produced around the world, corresponding to approximately 70% of the commercial production of all fibres of this type. The fibres are extracted from the leaves of Agave sisalana, from which approximately 4% of their weight is obtained, with the remaining 96% considered to be residues from the process of the sisal industry. The objective of this work was to obtain a polyphenol-enriched extract from the A. sisalana residue by ultrasonically assisted extraction, characterize it chemically, evaluate in vitro antioxidant activity, and develop safe and stable photoprotective formulations for future application in cosmetic preparations.

METHODS

Ultrasonic extraction of solid plant material was performed using 50% ethanol/water (v/v). The extract was chemically characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography equipment associated with classical molecular networking and evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity by different methodologies. Ten formulations were prepared, varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The 1.0% sisal extract was incorporated into the most stable formulations, and preliminary and accelerated stability were evaluated. The emulsions were investigated for safety by assessment of primary accumulated dermal irritability and sensitization and a dermatological clinical study of phototoxicity and photosensitization. The photoprotective formulations containing or not containing the extract that were stable after 90 days had their in vivo sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined.

RESULTS

Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as an extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a concentration of phenolic compounds (77.93 mg of equivalent to the standard gallic acid/g) and showed in vitro antioxidant activity. Emulsions without and with 1.0% sisal extract remained stable and safe. The addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract and offered protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelengths, and absorption of visible and blue light.

CONCLUSION

Based on the findings, the solid residue of A. sisalana may be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.

Caffeine in Skincare: Its Role in Skin Cancer, Sun Protection, and Cosmetics

Caffeine is ubiquitous in our society-not only in the drinks consumed but also increasingly in dermatologic topicals. Given that coffee and caffeine are increasingly used for the production of many dermatologic anti-cancer topicals, sunscreens, and cosmetics, it is of imperative importance to review the basic science and clinical evidence for such claims. In this concise review, we outline the current evidence.

Chlorogenic Acids and Caffeine from Coffee By-Products: A Review on Skincare Applications

Upcycling is a modern trend in the cosmetic sector, focusing on by-products reuse and waste reduction. Consumers are more aware of the origin of cosmetic products and their environmental impact, promoting the upcycling phenomenon. Converting these raw materials into products of higher quality or value contributes to the final product’s sustainability. In fact, several agri-food by-products that are typically discarded have generated great interest, due to their value-added compounds with high functionality and/or bioactivity. Coffee is well known as a cosmetic ingredient, particularly due to the presence of phenolic compounds, such as chlorogenic acids, and caffeine. Caffeine is widely used in cosmetic formulations due to its photoprotector and anti-aging properties, as well as lipolytic action in cellulitis, and hair regrowth. Chlorogenic acids are powerful antioxidants and exhibit anti-aging and photoprotector abilities. Coffee by-products, such as coffee beans, possess these bioactive compounds and other chemical characteristics that can provide functional properties in cosmetic formulations. Coffee silverskin and spent coffee grounds are high-volume by-products of the coffee industry. Their use has been explored in different cosmetic formulations demonstrating safety, stability, acceptability as well as skin improvement, thus supporting their valorization as natural and sustainable new ingredients in skincare products.

Photoprotective Efficacy of the Association of Rosmarinic Acid 0.1% with Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and Avobenzone

Innovative prototype sunscreens with reduced ultraviolet (UV) filters are required to achieve safer, more effective, and more environmentally friendly formulations. Rosmarinic acid (RA) is a phenolic antioxidant and potential candidate for multifunctional sunscreens. We used RA (0.1% w/w) in combination with avobenzone (2.5% and 5.0% w/w), a UVA filter, and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (10.0% w/w), a UVB filter, to evaluate in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength, photostability, and the in vivo SPF. RA, in vitro, improved the SPF of F2 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 2.5% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w) and F3 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 5.0% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w), which also presented broad-spectrum profiles; however, no expressive effects were observed for the critical wavelength (nm). By the in vivo trial, RA showed an increment in the F3 SPF value and maintained the F2 effectiveness, even when avobenzone was at 2.5%. Nonetheless, no increase in photostability was observed. Our findings suggest that incorporating natural molecules with antioxidant activities into sunscreens could decrease the proportion of conventional UV filters in the final product, with the advantage of providing other functional properties. Further investigation of higher RA concentrations, even from other sources, and other UV filter combinations could reveal important data for the development of multifunctional sunscreens.

Leather Dyeing by Plant-Derived Colorants in the Presence of Natural Additives

This research aimed to dye leather fabric samples with the application of plant-derived colorants and natural additives. Two grades of chitosan were used as additives, in addition to caffeine, nettle extract, and shellac solution. The ability of colorants to dye leather fabric and the impact of additives on leather fabric properties such as structure, color intensity, color stability under exposure to UVC irradiation, and mechanical properties were examined. For this purpose, dyed samples were tested by a colorimeter, ATR-FTIR spectrophotometer, mechanical testing machine, and X-ray diffractometer. The results indicated that the applied colorants of plant origin have the potential to dye leather fabrics without affecting their structure and without a negative impact on the environment. Applied natural additives can, therefore, beneficially influence the effects of the dyeing process, such as color intensity, colorfastness after exposure to UV irradiation, or tensile strength of the material.

Contribution of Nanoscience Research in Antioxidants Delivery Used in Nutricosmetic Sector

Nanoscience applications in the food and cosmetic industry offer many potential benefits for consumers and society. Nanotechnologies permit the manipulation of matter at the nanoscale level, resulting in new properties and characteristics useful in food and cosmetic production, processing, packaging, and storage. Nanotechnology protects sensitive bioactive compounds, improves their bioavailability and water solubility, guarantees their release at a site of action, avoids contact with other constituents, and masks unpleasant taste. Biopolymeric nanoparticles, nanofibers, nanoemulsions, nanocapsules, and colloids are delivery systems used to produce food supplements and cosmetics. There are no barriers to nanoscience applications in food supplements and cosmetic industries, although the toxicity of nano-sized delivery systems is not clear. The physicochemical and toxicological characterization of nanoscale delivery systems used by the nutricosmeceutic industry is reviewed in this work.

Plant Secondary Metabolites against Skin Photodamage: Mexican Plants, a Potential Source of UV-Radiation Protectant Molecules

Human skin works as a barrier against the adverse effects of environmental agents, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Exposure to UVR is associated with a variety of harmful effects on the skin, and it is one of the most common health concerns. Solar UVR constitutes the major etiological factor in the development of cutaneous malignancy. However, more than 90% of skin cancer cases could be avoided with appropriate preventive measures such as regular sunscreen use. Plants, constantly irradiated by sunlight, are able to synthesize specialized molecules to fight against UVR damage. Phenolic compounds, alkaloids and carotenoids constitute the major plant secondary metabolism compounds with relevant UVR protection activities. Hence, plants are an important source of molecules used to avoid UVR damage, reduce photoaging and prevent skin cancers and related illnesses. Due to its significance, we reviewed the main plant secondary metabolites related to UVR protection and its reported mechanisms. In addition, we summarized the research in Mexican plants related to UV protection. We presented the most studied Mexican plants and the photoprotective molecules found in them. Additionally, we analyzed the studies conducted to elucidate the mechanism of photoprotection of those molecules and their potential use as ingredients in sunscreen formulas.

Sunscreen lotions in the dermatological prescription: review of concepts and controversies

The skin is regularly exposed to several environmental aggressions, including solar radiation, whose biological effects can induce sunburn, dyschromia, skin aging and cancer. Among the photoprotection measures, sunscreens comprise a relevant part of the strategy aimed to prevent solar radiation damage and, for effective action, the patient must adhere to the product use and the latter, in turn, must follow technical parameters to promote adequate protection. This review article brings together the most current and relevant concepts about photoprotection for dermatological use, including the challenges for their formulation, the risks of certain photoprotective active substances for individual and environmental safety and the importance of stringency in determining the product efficacy, considering the regulatory aspects, highlighting relevant differences between Brazil and other countries. Thus, when assessing a sunscreen, not only the visual aspects and sensory perception will be immediately evaluated, but also the quality and suitability of the vehicle, the chemical composition of the formulation, the environmental risks, the photostability of the screening system, and the measurement of its protection spectrum. Technical knowledge of sunscreens can help dermatologists in this important role of educating patients about the best photoprotective strategies in each situation.

Dermocosmetic applications of microalgal pigments

Among photosynthetic microorganisms, Cyanobacteria and Microalgae species have been highly studied thank to their high value-added compounds for several industrial applications. Thus, their production is increasing in the last decade to produce raw material for cosmetics. In fact, the daily routine includes the use of cosmetics and sunscreens to protect against the environmental changes, mainly the increment of ultraviolet (UV) radiation rate with a consequent skin damage and premature aging due to this overexposure. As it is well discussed, chemical UV filters are extensively incorporated into sunscreens formulas; however, they can induce allergenic reactions as well. For these reasons, some pigments derived from microalgae, such as astaxanthin, lutein, β-carotene as well as other biocompounds are now well described in the literature as well as biotechnologically manufactured as natural ingredients to be incorporated into skin care products with multifunctional benefits even for sunscreen purposes. Hence, this investigation summarizes the recent studies about the main pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms' biomasses as well as their uses in dermocosmetics with novel attributes, such as anti-aging agents, makeups, skin lightening and whitening, among others.

Evaluating the Sun Protection Factor of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Afzelin

Exposure to UV radiation damages the skin and increases the risk of skin cancer. Sunscreen is used to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. However, the chemical UV filters used in sunscreen can show toxicity and cause allergic reactions. A safe sunscreen that includes a lower content of chemical UV filters and exerts an excellent effect on UV protection needs to be developed. The objective of this study was to investigate whether the addition of afzelin to sunscreen could improve the sun protection factor (SPF). A synergistic effect between afzelin and organic sunscreen agents including padimate O and oxybenzone was confirmed. Interestingly, 100% in vitro SPF-boosting was observed when afzelin (0.05%) was applied with a standard SPF formulation containing organic sunscreens while afzelin alone had no contribution to the SPF. In vivo SPF analysis of the standard SPF formulation showed an SPF value of 13.3 that increased to 20.1 when supplemented with afzelin (0.05%). Additionally, afzelin showed no skin irritation in a human trial. These results suggest that afzelin is useful as a natural additive in sunscreen formulations and provides an SPF-boosting effect. Afzelin supplementation to the formulation showed the potential to reduce the use of synthetic photoprotectors, which could minimize the risk of synthetic agent toxicity.

Methoxy-Monobenzoylmethane Protects Human Skin against UV-Induced Damage by Conversion to Avobenzone and Radical Scavenging

Avobenzone, one of the most commonly used UV filters in topical sunscreens, is susceptible to photodegradation with a consequential reduction of its UV absorbing properties. This loss of function may lead to skin irritation, photodermatosis, and photoallergic reactions caused by photodegradation byproducts. In this work, we aim to address this issue with a substance named methoxy-monobenzoylmethane (MeO-MBM), which is neither a UVB nor a UVA filter, but which converts to avobenzone, a known and approved UVA filter, under mainly UVB light irradiation. The antioxidant and intracellular radical formation properties of MeO-MBM were compared to the ones of avobenzone. The UV irradiation of MeO-MBM led to an increase in UV absorption primarily in the UVA range after conversion, both in vitro and in vivo. HPTLC and UHPLC studies illustrate the conversion of MeO-MBM to avobenzone in vitro after irradiation at 250 kJ/m², reaching a conversion rate of 48.8%. A stable molecular antioxidant activity was observed, since 100-µM MeO-MBM was measured to be 11.2% in the DPPH assay, with a decrease to 9.7% after irradiation. In comparison, the molecular antioxidant activity of 100-µM avobenzone was determined to be 0.8%. In keratinocytes, MeO-MBM reduces the intracellular ROS by 90% and avobenzone by 75% with tBHP as the inducer and by 53% and 57%, respectively, when induced by pyocyanin, indicating the redox scavenging capacity of both these molecules. These results indicate that MeO-MBM functions initially as an antioxidant material and as a photoantioxidant during its conversion process to avobenzone. This research provides insight into the development of active ingredients for topical applications with dynamic functionalities. Using this approach, we demonstrate the possibility to extend the UV protection offered to skin cells while combating cellular stress in parallel.

Natural components in sunscreens: Topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF)

Artificial sunscreens are already gaining traction in order to protect the skin from sunburns, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. However, the efficacy and safety of most artificial sunscreen constituents are hindered by their photostability, toxicity and damage to marine ecosystems. Natural selection and evolution have ensured that plants and animals have developed effective protective mechanisms against the deleterious side effects of oxidative stress and ultraviolet radiation (UV). Hence, natural antioxidants such as sun blockers are drawing considerable attention. The exact mechanism by which natural components act as sunscreen molecules has not been clearly established. However, conjugated π system is reported to play an important role in protecting the vital genetic material within the organism. Compared to artificial sunscreens, natural sunscreens with strong UV absorptive capacities are largely limited by low specific extinction value and by their inability to spread in large-scale sunscreen cosmetic applications. Previous studies have documented that natural components exert their photoprotective effects (such as improved skin elasticity and hydration, skin texture, and wrinkles) through their antioxidant effects, and through the regulation of UV-induced skin inflammation, barrier impairment and aging. This review focuses on natural antioxidant topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF). Lignin, melanin, silymarin and other ingredients have been added to high sun protection nature sunscreens without any physical or chemical UV filters. This paper also provides a reference for adopting novel technical measures (extracting high content components, changing the type of solution, optimizing formulation, applying Nano technology, et al) to design and prepare nature sunscreen formulations equated with commercial sunscreen formulations. Another strategy is to add natural antioxidants from plants, animals, microorganisms and marine organisms as special enhancer or modifier ingredients to reinforce SPF values. Although the photoprotective effects of natural components have been established, their deleterious side effects have not been elucidated.

In vivo SPF from multifunctional sunscreen systems developed with natural compounds-A review

BACKGROUND

The use of sunscreens is mandatory, especially in countries with high ultraviolet (UV) incidence. In consequence, there has been a growing interest in using compounds from natural sources to develop new multifunctional products that protect human skin from the consequences of UV exposition. Even though there are in vitro methods to determine anti-UV efficacy, it is still required to test photoprotection activity on human skin to validate product performance.

AIM AND METHODS

In this review, we summarized all reported clinical studies about sun protection factor (SPF) measurements of sunscreens with natural compounds. We also discussed the probable action mechanism of those actives.

RESULTS

Herein, we provided an overview on recent studies concerning photoprotection activity of compounds from natural sources, for example, rutin, ferulic acid, caffeine, shea butter, and plant extracts, mainly presented in sunscreen systems with efficacy clinically established by SPF.

CONCLUSION

Our review suggested that even when the in vivo SPF evaluation has inherent difficulties, it is essential to assure the real efficacy of sunscreens. Furthermore, the incorporation of natural compounds could enhance the in vivo SPF values of such sunscreens by different mechanisms. Finally, some compounds derived from natural resources with skin benefits could be used as "green"/natural UV filters that provide broad-spectrum sunscreens with further upgrading of the multifunctional dermocosmetic formulation to enhance aesthetics and even skin health.

Contribution of Topical Antioxidants to Maintain Healthy Skin—A Review

The skin is constantly exposed to various environmental stresses, in particular to the damage caused by pollution and ultraviolet radiation (UV), and as a consequence, the horny extract can be negatively impacted by the harmful influence of some of its surface components. The mechanisms involved in the degradation processes promoted by UV radiation are driven by the direct absorption of radiation via cellular chromophores, the formation of excited states and the consequent chemical reactions, or even by the photosensitization mechanisms, in which UV light is absorbed by the sensitizers that are excited and their reactions promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The mechanisms of polluting agents are not yet fully understood, however, they indicate that one of the main mechanisms involved is oxidative stress by lipid peroxidation, with the ability to promote damage to the composition of sebum, the quality of the stratum corneum and also, promote aging skin. Recent studies demonstrate the potential of antioxidant agents, with an emphasis on products of natural origin, which try to promote the maintenance of the physiological balance of the skin.

Assessment of water contamination and health risk of endocrine disrupting chemicals in outdoor and indoor swimming pools

The occurrence of endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs) in swimming pool waters has been scarcely investigated. In this study, the concentrations of 20 EDCs (4 phenols, 6 estrogens, 4 progestogens, 5 androgens, and 1 pharmaceutical) in 40 outdoor and indoor swimming pools in Changsha, China were investigated. Out of them, two phenols (bisphenol A and 4-tert-octylphenol), three estrogens (17β-estradiol, 17ɑ-ethinlestradiol (EE2), and hexestrol), one pharmaceutical (caffeine), and two progestogens (progesterone and levonorgestrel) were detected in the collected samples. The androgens were not detected. Bisphenol A and caffeine were the dominant EDCs at concentrations of ND-23.22 ng/L and ND-39.08 ng/L, respectively. The levels of caffeine were significantly higher in indoor swimming pools (11.15 ng/L in average) than those in outdoor pools (1.90 ng/L in average) (p < 0.05), owing to the less sun's UV radiation and less use of sunscreens containing caffeine. The progestogens (progesterone and levonorgestrel) and estrogens (17β-estradiol and hexestrol) were only detected in outdoor swimming pools. The detection frequencies and concentrations of bisphenol A and caffeine in downtown pools were significantly higher than those in outskirt pools. Besides, the correlations between the concentrations of EDCs and water quality parameters evaluated by the Spearman correlation analysis implied that residual chlorine had strong oxidant capable to bisphenol A and suggested that caffeine could be a potential indicator of organic contamination in swimming pool water. Finally, a quantitative risk assessment revealed that non-athletic child and athletic adult female were vulnerable subpopulations. The EDI_total of EE2 for athletic child, non-athletic female, non-athletic male, and non-athletic child were higher than ADI_EE2 adopted by Australia and the EDI_total of EE2 for athletic female and athletic male were higher than ADI_EE2 adopted by the United States.