A Unique Acylated Flavonol Glycoside from Prunus persica (L.) var. Florida Prince: A New Solid Lipid Nanoparticle Cosmeceutical Formulation for Skincare

From by-products to new application opportunities: the enhancement of the leaves deriving from the fruit plants for new potential healthy products

In the last decades, the world population and demand for any kind of product have grown exponentially. The rhythm of production to satisfy the request of the population has become unsustainable and the concept of the linear economy, introduced after the Industrial Revolution, has been replaced by a new economic approach, the circular economy. In this new economic model, the concept of "the end of life" is substituted by the concept of restoration, providing a new life to many industrial wastes. Leaves are a by-product of several agricultural cultivations. In recent years, the scientific interest regarding leaf biochemical composition grew, recording that plant leaves may be considered an alternative source of bioactive substances. Plant leaves' main bioactive compounds are similar to those in fruits, i.e., phenolic acids and esters, flavonols, anthocyanins, and procyanidins. Bioactive compounds can positively influence human health; in fact, it is no coincidence that the leaves were used by our ancestors as a natural remedy for various pathological conditions. Therefore, leaves can be exploited to manufacture many products in food (e.g., being incorporated in food formulations as natural antioxidants, or used to create edible coatings or films for food packaging), cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries (e.g., promising ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics such as oils, serums, dermatological creams, bath gels, and other products). This review focuses on the leaves' main bioactive compounds and their beneficial health effects, indicating their applications until today to enhance them as a harvesting by-product and highlight their possible reuse for new potential healthy products.

Effects on keratinocytes of the traditional combination of herb extract (Royal Oji Complex) implicated the improvement of young children's skin moisture and barrier

BACKGROUND

Natural products are often friendly and can be used on children's skin after systematic and careful research. Therefore, in this study, the Royal Oji Complex (ROC), a product with natural ingredients, was used to study their effectiveness on keratinocytes taken from the skin of children from 0 to 3 years old.

METHOD

Normal human epidermal keratinocytes and tissue-isolated keratinocytes (TIKC) from young donors were treated with three different concentrations of ROC: 0.1, 1, and 10 ppm. The mRNA expression of the epidermal barrier's essential genes, such as hyaluronic acid synthase 3 (Has3), involucrin (IVL), loricrin (LOR), and claudin-1 (CLD1) was investigated using qRT-PCR. Ceramide content was measured by ELISA, with retinoic acid (R.A.) and amarogentin (AMA) serving as positive controls.

RESULTS

ROC significantly elevated HAS3 gene expression in HEKn cells, especially at 10 ppm, indicating potential advantages for skin hydration in young infants. IVL increased at first but decreased as ROC concentrations increased. LOR was upregulated at lower ROC concentrations but reduced at higher doses. CLD1 gene expression increased considerably in HEKn but reduced with increasing ROC doses. Ceramide concentration increased somewhat but not significantly at 10 ppm.

CONCLUSION

ROC shows potential in altering keratinocyte gene expression, with unique responses in HEKn and TIKC from young donors. While changes in ceramide content were insignificant, these results help to comprehend ROC's multiple effects on young children's skin.

Exploring the potential of the nano-based sunscreens and antioxidants for preventing and treating skin photoaging

Excessive exposure to sunlight, especially UV irradiation, causes skin photodamage. Sunscreens, such as TiO2 and ZnO, can potentially prevent UV via scattering, reflection, and absorption. Topical antioxidants are another means of skin photoprotection. Developing nanoparticles for sunscreens and antioxidants is recommended for photoaging prevention and treatment as it can improve uncomfortable skin appearance, stability, penetration, and safety. This study reviewed the effects of nano-sized sunscreens and antioxidants on skin photoprevention by examining published studies and articles from PubMed, Scopus, and Google Scholar, which explore the topics of skin photoaging, skin senescence, UV radiation, keratinocyte, dermal fibroblast, sunscreen, antioxidant, and nanoparticle. The researchers of this study also summarized the nano-based UV filters and therapeutics for mitigating skin photoaging. The skin photodamage mechanisms are presented, followed by the introduction of current skin photoaging treatment. The different nanoparticle types used for topical delivery were also explored in this study. This is followed by the mechanisms of how nanoparticles improve the UV filters and antioxidant performance. Lastly, recent investigations were reviewed on nanoparticulate sunscreens and antioxidants in skin photoaging management. Sunscreens and antioxidants for topical application have different concepts. Topical antioxidants are ideal for permeating into the skin to exhibit free radical scavenging activity, while UV filters are prescribed to remain on the skin surface without absorption to exert the UV-blocking effect without causing toxicity. The nanoparticle design strategy for meeting the different needs of sunscreens and antioxidants is also explored in this study. Although the benefits of using nanoparticles for alleviating photodamage are well-established, more animal-based and clinical studies are necessary.

Solid Lipid Nanoparticles: Review of the Current Research on Encapsulation and Delivery Systems for Active and Antioxidant Compounds

Various active compounds are easily damaged, so they need protection and must be easily absorbed and targeted. This problem can be overcome by encapsulating in the form of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs). Initially, SLNs were widely used to encapsulate hydrophobic (non-polar) active compounds because of their matched affinity and interactions. Currently, SLNs are being widely used for the encapsulation of hydrophilic (polar) and semipolar active compounds, but there are challenges, including increasing their entrapment efficiency. This review provides information on current research on SLNs for encapsulation and delivery systems for active and antioxidant compounds, which includes various synthesis methods and applications of SLNs in various fields of utilization. SLNs can be developed starting from the selection of solid lipid matrices, emulsifiers/surfactants, types of active compounds or antioxidants, synthesis methods, and their applications or utilization. The type of lipid used determines crystal formation, control of active compound release, and encapsulation efficiency. Various methods can be used in the SLN fabrication of active compounds and hydrophilic/hydrophobic antioxidants, which have advantages and disadvantages. Fabrication design, which includes the selection of lipid matrices, surfactants, and fabrication methods, determines the characteristics of SLNs. High-shear homogenization combined with ultrasonication is the recommended method and has been widely used because of the ease of preparation and good results. Appropriate fabrication design can produce SLNs with stable active compounds and antioxidants that become suitable encapsulation systems for various applications or uses.

Helwah MK, Noureldin MH, Abbas H. Dual-effects of caffeinated hyalurosomes as a nano-cosmeceutical gel counteracting UV-induced skin ageing

Caffeine (CAF) is a challenging natural bioactive compound with proven antiaging efficacy. However, being hydrophilic hampers its permeation through the skin. Our aim is to develop a novel CAF-loaded nano-cosmeceutical tool counteracting skin photoaging via improving CAF skin permeation using a bioactive nanocarrier. Caffeinated hyalurosomes are novel biocompatible antiaging nanoplatforms designed by immobilization of phospholipid vesicles with a hyaluronan polymer. Physicochemical properties of the selected hyalurosomes formulation showed nano-sized vesicles (210.10 ± 1.87 nm), with high zeta potential (-31.30 ± 1.19 mv), and high encapsulation efficiency (84.60 ± 1.05%). In vitro release results showed outstanding sustained release profile from caffeinated hyalurosomes compared to the CAF-loaded in conventional gel over 24 h. The in-vivo study revealed a photoprotective effect of caffeinated hyalurosomes, reflected from the intact and wrinkling-free skin. Results of biochemical analyses of oxidative stress, pro-inflammatory mediators, and anti-wrinkling markers further confirmed the efficacy of the prepared hyalurosomes compared to the CAF conventional gel. Finally, histopathological examination demonstrated normal histological structures of epidermal layers with minimal inflammatory cell infiltrates in the caffeinated hyalurosomes group compared to the positive control group. Conclusively, caffeinated hyalurosomes successfully achieved enhanced CAF loading and penetration into the skin besides the hydration effect of hyaluronan. Consequently, the developed delivery system presents a promising skin protection nano-platforms via the double effects of both hyaluronan and CAF, hence it guards against skin photodamage.

Green Synthesis of Highly Fluorescent Carbon Dots from Bovine Serum Albumin for Linezolid Drug Delivery as Potential Wound Healing Biomaterial: Bio-Synergistic Approach, Antibacterial Activity, and In Vitro and Ex Vivo Evaluation

A simple and green approach was developed to produce novel highly fluorescent bovine serum albumin carbon dots (BCDs) via facile one-step hydrothermal treatment, using bovine serum albumin as a precursor carbon source. Inherent blue photoluminescence of the synthesized BCDs provided a maximum photostability of 90.5 ± 1.2% and was characterized via TEM, FT-IR, XPS, XRD, UV-visible, and zeta potential analyses. By virtue of their extremely small size, intrinsic optical and photoluminescence properties, superior photostability, and useful non-covalent interactions with the synthetic oxazolidinone antibiotic linezolid (LNZ), BCDs were investigated as fluorescent nano-biocarriers for LNZ drug delivery. The release profile of LNZ from the drug delivery system (LNZ-BCDs) revealed a distinct biphasic release, which is beneficial for mollifying the lethal incidents associated with wound infection. The effective wound healing performance of the developed LNZ-BCDs were evaluated through various in vitro and ex vivo assays such as MTT, ex vivo hemolysis, in vitro antibacterial activity, in vitro skin-related enzyme inhibition, and scratch wound healing assays. The examination of LNZ-BCDs as an efficient wound healing biomaterial illustrated excellent biocompatibility and low cytotoxicity against normal human skin fibroblast (HSF) cell line, indicating distinct antibacterial activity against the most common wound infectious pathogens including Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC^® 25922) and methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus, robust anti-elastase, anti-collagenase, and anti-tyrosinase activities, and enhanced cell proliferation and migration effect. The obtained results confirmed the feasibility of using the newly designed fluorescent LNZ-BCDs nano-bioconjugate as a unique antibacterial biomaterial for effective wound healing and tissue regeneration. Besides, the greenly synthesized BCDs could be considered as a great potential substitute for toxic nanoparticles in biomedical applications due to their biocompatibility and intense fluorescence characteristics and in pharmaceutical industries as promising drug delivery nano-biocarriers for effective wound healing applications.

Evaluation of the Antioxidant, Cytoprotective and Antityrosinase Effects of Schisandra chinensis Extracts and Their Applicability in Skin Care Product

Plant extracts have been widely used for skin care for many centuries, and nowadays, they are commonly applied for the development and enrichment of new cosmetic preparations. The present study aimed the assessment of the biological activity of aqueous Schisandra chinensis extracts as a potential ingredient of skin care products. The aspects studied involved the ability to neutralize free radicals, impact on viability and metabolism of keratinocytes, as well as tyrosinase inhibitory potential. Our study showed that aqueous S. chinensis extracts have a positive effect on keratinocyte growth and have high antioxidant potential and strong tyrosinase inhibitory activity. UPLC-MS analysis revealed that three groups of phenolic compounds were predominant in the analyzed extract, including lignans, phenolic acids and flavonoids and protocatechiuc and p-coumaryl quinic acids were predominant. Moreover, microwave-assisted extraction, followed by heat reflux extraction, was the most effective for extracting polyphenols. Furthermore, a prototypical natural body washes gel formulation containing the previously prepared extracts was developed. The irritation potential and viscosity were assessed for each of the formulations. The study demonstrated that the addition of these extracts to body wash gel formulations has a positive effect on their quality and may contribute to a decrease in skin irritation. In summary, S. chinensis aqueous extracts can be seen as an innovative ingredient useful in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry.

Melaleuca rugulosa (Link) Craven Tannins: Appraisal of anti-inflammatory, radical scavenging activities, and molecular modeling studies

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Genus Melaleuca or tea tree species are well known to be an important source of biological active oils and extracts. The biological significance appears in their usage for treatment of several clinical disorder owing to their traditional uses as anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal, and cytotoxic activities.

AIM OF THE STUDY

Our study aimed to investigate the metabolic profile of the M. rugulosa polyphenol-rich fraction along with determination of its anti-inflammatory potential, free radical scavenging and antiaging activities supported with virtual understanding of the mode of action using molecular modeling strategy.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The anti-inflammatory activity of the phenolic rich fraction was investigated through measuring its inhibitory activity against inflammatory mediators viz tumor necrosing factor receptor-2 (TNF-α) and cyclooxygenases 1/2 (COX-1/2) in a cell free and cell-based assays. Moreover, the radical scavenging activity was determined using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) and β-carotene assays, while the antiaging activity in anti-elastase, anti-collagenase, and anti-tyrosinase inhibitory assays. Finally, the biological findings were supported with molecular docking study using MOE software.

RESULTS

The chromatographic purification of the polyphenol-rich fraction of Melaleuca rugulosa (Link) Craven afforded fourteen phytoconstituents (1-14). The anti-inflammatory gauging experiments demonstrated inhibition of inflammatory-linked enzymes COX-1/2 and the TNF-α at low μg/mL levels in the enzyme-based assays. Further investigation of the underlying mechanism was inferred from the quantification of protein levels and gene expression in the lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-activated murine macrophages (RAW264.7) in vitro model. The results revealed the reduction of protein synthesis of COX-1/2 and TNF-α with the down regulation of gene expression. The cell free in vitro radical scavenging assessment of the polyphenol-rich fraction revealed a significant DPPH reduction, peroxyl radicals scavenging, and β-carotene peroxidation inhibition. Besides, the polyphenol-rich fraction showed a considerable inhibition of the skin aging-related enzymes as elastase, collagenase, and tyrosinase. Ultimately, the computational molecular modelling studies uncovered the potential binding poses and relevant molecular interactions of the identified polyphenols with their targeted enzymes. Particularly, terflavin C (8) which showed a favorable binding pose at the elastase binding pocket, while rosmarinic acid (14) demonstrated the best binding pose at the COX-2 catalytic domain. In short, natural polyphenols are potential candidates for the management of free radicals, inflammation, and skin aging related conditions.

CONCLUSION

Natural polyphenols are potential candidates for the management of free radicals, inflammation, and skin aging related conditions.

Herbal nanocosmecuticals: A review on cosmeceutical innovation

BACKGROUND

Cosmeceuticals are drugs, cosmetics, or a combination of both. Cosmeceuticals are personal care products that not only beautify but also need to have healing, therapeutic, and disease-fighting characteristics. For decades, phytocompounds have been employed in cosmeceuticals and have shown potential in applications such as moisturizing, sunscreen, antiaging, and hair-based therapy. The inability of phytocompounds to easily penetrate through the skin and their instability limit their usage in cosmetic products. This can be overcome by incorporating nanotechnology into cosmetic products for a more stable and long-lasting release. Nanotechnology's substantial impact on the cosmetics industry is due to the improved properties attained by particles at the nano scale, such as color, solubility, and transparency. Liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, niosomes, and many varieties of nanoparticulate systems are commonly used in cosmetics. Safety concerns for the usage of nanomaterials in cosmeceuticals have been raised lately, hence causing the restriction on the use of nanomaterials by cosmetic companies and enforcing laws demanding thorough safety testing prior to market entry.

AIM

This review focuses on the types of nanomaterials used in phytocosmetics, along with the potential hazards they pose to human life and the environment, and what legislation has been enacted or can be enacted to address them.

METHODS

For relevant literature, a literature search was conducted using PubMed, ScienceDirect, and Google Scholar. Nanotechnology, cosmeceuticals, herbal cosmetics, and other related topics were researched and evaluated in articles published between 2016 and 2022.

RESULTS

Herbal drugs provide a tremendous range of therapeutic benefits. And when nanoparticles were introduced to the personal care industry, the quality of the final product containing phyto-compounds continued to rise. Unfortunately, because these nano components can permeate intact skin barriers and create unwanted consequences, this revolution comes with a slew of health risks.

CONCLUSION

The cosmeceutical industry's expansion and growth in the application of herbal compounds, as well as the entrance of nanotechnology into the cosmeceuticals business, entail the urgent need for scientific research into their efficacy, safety profile, and use.

Polyphenolic profile and ethno pharmacological activities of Callistemonsubulatus (Cheel) Craven leaves cultivated in Egypt

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The genus Callistemon (syn. Melaleuca) of the myrtle family (Myrtaceae) has been documented as an integral part in the ethnobotanical system of the indigenous people of Australian mainland and many of its islands. Several Callistemons including the species subulatus were used by aboriginal Australians for making rafts, roofs for shelters, bandages, and food recipes, in addition to the management of wounds, infections, pain, cough, bronchitis, and gastrointestinal tract (GIT) disorders.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The current study is designed to document the therapeutic effect of the aqueous methanolic extract (AME) of C. sabulatus Chell (syn. M. sabulata) leaves in the management of diarrhea and pain. Also, its influence on additional pharmacological modalities that are related to oxidative stress just as skin aging. Ultimately, the polyphenolic profile of the extract is disclosed and correlated to the aforementioned bioactivities.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The extract was fractionated using various chromatography techniques and the structures of the isolated compounds were determined based on their chemical and spectral data. The antioxidant activity was assessed using multiple models, including 2,2-diphenyl-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) and β-carotene bleaching assays. The anti-skin aging effect was evaluated using different relevant enzymatic assays. The antinociceptive activity was investigated using acetic acid-induced writhing, hot plate test, and formalin-induced paw licking in mice models. The antidiarrheal activity was gauge using the castor oil induced diarrhea, enter pooling and gastrointestinal motility in vivo models.

RESULTS

Diverse polyphenols, including quercetin-3-O-β-D-glucuronopyranoside (1), kaempferol-3-O-β-D-glucuronopyranoside (2), strictinin (3), quercetin-3-O-(2``-O-galloyl)-β-D-glucuronopyranoside (4), afzelin (5), di-galloyl glucose (6), mono-galloyl glucose (7), acacetin (8), apigenin-6,7-dimethyl ether (9), kaempferol trimethyl ether (10), dimethoxy chrysin (11), quercetin (12), kaempferol (13), methyl gallate (14), and gallic acid (15) were identified. The extract exhibited as significant antioxidant activity even better than that of Trolox or BHT. Moreover, it exerts elastase, tyrosinase, and collagenase inhibition activities, in addition to the significant peripheral and central analgesic activity in a dose-dependent manner (P < 0.0001). In castor oil induced diarrhea model, AME significantly prolonged the diarrhea onset, decreased the frequency of defecation, and weight of feces. Likewise, it exhibited a significant reduction in the gastrointestinal motility in charcoal meal model (P < 0.0001) and a considerable inhibitory effect on gastrointestinal transit and peristaltic index with all investigated doses (P < 0.0001).

CONCLUSION

Ethnobotanicals are versatile resources for the management of various ailments by indigenous people and the experimental research is utmost to validate and uncover their pharmacological relevance. C. sabulatus leaves have strong antioxidant, analgesic, anti-skin aging, and antidiarrheal activities which are validated for the first time by various in vitro and in vivo models. The metabolic profile of the unprecedented AME of C. sabulatus leaves compromises a wide array of bioactive polyphenolic metabolites including, flavonoids, tannins, and phenolic acids that are correlated to the observed bioactivities. Altogether, ethnobotanicals with high and diverse contents of polyphenols are potential candidates for the management of various human aliments including neuropathies, GIT disorders, and skin aging conditions.

UPLC-PDA-MS/MS Profiling and Healing Activity of Polyphenol-Rich Fraction of Alhagi maurorum against Oral Ulcer in Rats

Camelthorn, Alhagi maurorum Boiss, family Fabaceae has long been used in African folk medicine owing to its richness in pharmacologically active metabolites. The crude extract (CEAM), ethyl acetate fraction (EFAM) and n-butanol (BFAM) fraction of A. maurorum aerial parts were investigated for their total polyphenols and oral antiulcer activity using in-vitro and in-vivo models. The major phenolic compound was isolated from the polyphenol-rich EFAM fraction and identified by conventional and spectroscopic methods of analysis as isorhamnetin-3-O-rutinoside. Furthermore, standardization of EAFM using UPLC-PDA-UV quantified isorhamnetin-3-O-rutinoside as 262.91 0.57 g/mg of the fraction. Analysis of EFAM using UPLC-PDA-MS/MS revealed tentative identification of 25 polyphenolic compounds. EFAM exhibited the most potent free radical scavenging activity against DPPH, with an IC₅₀ (27.73 ± 1.85 µg/mL) and an FRAP value of (176.60 ± 5.21 μM Trolox equivalent (TE)/mg fraction) in comparison with CEAM and BFAM. Acetic acid-induced oral ulcers in a rat model were used to evaluate the healing properties of A. maurorum aerial parts. EFAM significantly decreased tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) and interleukin-2 (IL-2) by 36.4% and 50.8%, respectively, in the ulcer tissues while, CEAM and BFAM exhibited lower activity at the same dose. In addition, EFAM led to a significant (p < 0.0001) rise in the expression of proliferating cell nuclear antigen (PCNA), a cell proliferation marker. A. maurorum exhibited a potent healing effect in acetic acid-induced oral ulcers in rats by mitigating the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines and improving PCNA expression.

Biotechnological Applications and Health-Promoting Properties of Flavonols: An Updated View

Flavonols are a subclass of natural flavonoids characterized by a remarkable number of biotechnological applications and health-promoting properties. They attract researchers’ attention due to many epidemiological studies supporting their usage. They are phytochemicals commonly present in our diet, being ubiquitous in the plant kingdom and, in particular, relatively very abundant in fruits and vegetables. All these aspects make flavonols candidates of choice for the valorization of products, based on the presence of a remarkable number of different chemical structures, each one characterized by specific chemical features capable of influencing biological targets inside the living organisms in very different manners. In this review, we analyzed the biochemical and physiological characteristics of flavonols focalizing our attention on the most promising compounds to shed some light on their increasing utilization in biotechnological applications in processing industries, as well as their suitable employment to improve the overall wellness of the humankind.