A Novel Cassia fistula (L.)-Based Emulsion Elicits Skin Anti-Aging Benefits in Humans

Inhibitory effects of cassiae semen extract on the formation of 2-amino-1-methyl-6-phenylimidazo [4,5-b] pyridine (PhIP) in model system

Introduction

2-Amino-1-methyl-6-phenylimidazole [4,5-b] pyridine (PhIP), a heterocyclic amine (HAA), is found in meat products heated at high temperatures. However, PhIP is a mutagenic and potential carcinogenic compound. Cassiae semen, a type of medicine and food homology plant, is abundant in China and has been less applied for inhibiting heterocyclic amines.

Methods

To investigate the inhibitory effect of cassiae semen extract on PhIP formation within a model system and elucidate the inhibitory mechanism, an ultrasonic-assisted method with 70% ethanol was used to obtain cassiae semen extract, which was added to a model system (0.6 mmol of phenylalanine: creatinine, 1:1). PhIP was analyzed by LC-MS to determine inhibitory effect. The byproducts of the system and the mechanism of PhIP inhibition were verified by adding the extract to a model mixture of phenylacetaldehyde, phenylacetaldehyde and creatinine.

Results

The results indicated that PhIP production decreased as the concentration of cassiae semen extract increased, and the highest inhibition rate was 91.9%. Byproduct (E), with a mass-charge ratio of m/z 199.9, was detected in the phenylalanine and creatinine model system but was not detected in the other systems. The cassiae semen extract may have reacted with phenylalanine to produce byproduct (E), which prevented the degradation of phenylalanine by the Strecker reaction to produce phenylacetaldehyde.

Discussion

Cassiae semen extract consumed phenylalanine, which is the precursor for PhIP, thus inhibiting the formation of phenylacetaldehyde and ultimately inhibiting PhIP formation. The main objective of this study was to elucidate the mechanism by which cassiae semen inhibit PhIP formation and establish a theoretical and scientific foundation for practical control measures.

Fabrication, organoleptic evaluation and in vitro characterization of cream loaded with Carica papaya seed extract

OBJECTIVE

The current study aimed to provide preliminary insights into potential biopharmaceutical applications of Carica papaya seed extract by evaluating its phytochemical and biological profiles. Furthermore, the study aimed to develop a stable oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion for the effective delivery of antioxidant-rich biologicals for cosmetic purposes.

METHODS

The hydroethanolic (ethanol 80%: 20% water) extract of C. papaya seeds was prepared via maceration technique. The chemical composition was carried out through preliminary phytochemical screening and estimation of total phenolic contents (TPC) and total flavonoid contents (TFC). The biological profile of the extract was explored using various in-vitro antioxidant methods. The homogenization procedure was used to create a cream of O/W and various tests were applied to assess the stability of the emulsion. By keeping the emulsion at different storage conditions (8 ± 0.5°C, 25 ± 0.5°C, 40 ± 0.5°C, and 40 ± 0.5°C ± 75% relative humidity [RH]) for a period of 28 days), the physical stability parameters of the emulsion, including pH, viscosity, centrifugation, phase separation, and conductivity, as well as rheological parameters and organoleptic parameters (odor, color, liquefaction, and creaming), were assessed.

RESULTS

The preliminary phytochemical screening assay revealed the presence of various plant secondary metabolites including alkaloids, phenolics, flavonoids, tannins, saponins, and quinones. The extract was found to be rich in TPC and TFC. The in vitro antioxidant study gave maximum activity in the DPPH method. The plant extract containing cosmetic cream exhibited remarkable stability during the entire research. Data gathered indicated that no phase separation or liquefaction was seen after the experimental period. Throughout the experimental period, a small variation in the pH and conductivity values of the base and formulation was seen.

CONCLUSION

The findings suggest that the seed extract of C. papaya is a rich source of polyphenols with antioxidant potential and can be a promising alternative for the treatment of various ailments. The stability of emulsion paves the way for its utilization as a carrier for the delivery of 3% C. papaya seed extract and applications in cosmetics products.

Development of Emulsions Containing L-Ascorbic Acid and α-Tocopherol Based on the Polysaccharide FucoPol: Stability Evaluation and Rheological and Texture Assessment

The main function of vitamin C, as an antioxidant, is to combat free radicals and prevent premature aging, smoothing wrinkles and expression lines. In addition, it acts directly on depigmentation and prevention of blemishes on the skin. In this study, natural oils (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated, adding L-ascorbic acid as an antioxidant. The optimized formulations were obtained with 8.0 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Olea europaea oil formulation (C1) with a ƞ value of 2.71 Pa.s (measured at shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 96% and with 15 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Prunus amygdalus dulcis formulation (C2) with a ƞ value of 5.15 Pa.s (at a shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 99%. The stability of the FucoPol-based formulations was investigated over 45 days at 4 °C, 20 °C, and 30 °C. The results showed that all formulations maintained the organoleptic characteristics, with pH variations (5.7–6.8 for C1, and 5.5–6.03 for C2) within the regulations for cosmetic products (4 ≤ pH ≤ 7). The accelerated stability tests proved the formulations’ stability at 4 °C with EI = 95% for C1 and EI = 100% for C2. The rheological assessment demonstrated that the formulation presents a shear-thinning and liquid-like behavior. Regarding textural parameters, formulations C1 and C2 displayed an increase in firmness and consistency with similar spreadability during the shelf life. These findings further demonstrate FucoPol’s functional properties, acting as an emulsifier and stabilizer polysaccharide in cosmetic formulations containing L-ascorbic acid.

Formulation of the Polysaccharide FucoPol into Novel Emulsified Creams with Improved Physicochemical Properties

Driven by the customers' growing awareness of environmental issues, the production of topical formulations based on sustainable ingredients is receiving widespread attention from researchers and the industry. Although numerous sustainable ingredients (natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived compounds) have been investigated, there is a lack of comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives. In this study, olive oil (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated envisaging their validation as cosmetic creams. After formula composition design by Response Surface Methodology (RSM), the optimized FucoPol-based emulsion was prepared with 1.5 wt.% FucoPol, 1.5 wt.% cetyl alcohol, and 3.0 wt.% glycerin. The resulting emulsions had an apparent viscosity of 8.72 Pa.s (measured at a shear rate 2.3 s^-1) and droplet size and zeta potential values of 6.12 µm and -97.9 mV, respectively, which are within the values reported for cosmetic emulsified formulations. The optimized formulation displayed the desired criterium of a thin emulsion system, possessing the physicochemical properties and the stability comparable to those of commercially available products used in cosmeceutical applications.

The Effects of Nutrient Signaling Regulators in Combination with Phytocannabinoids on the Senescence-Associated Phenotype in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Identifying effective anti-aging compounds is a cornerstone of modern longevity, aging, and skin-health research. There is considerable evidence of the effectiveness of nutrient signaling regulators such as metformin, resveratrol, and rapamycin in longevity and anti-aging studies; however, their potential protective role in skin aging is controversial. In light of the increasing appearance of phytocannabinoids in beauty products without rigorous research on their rejuvenation efficacy, we decided to investigate the potential role of phytocannabinoids in combination with nutrient signaling regulators in skin rejuvenation. Utilizing CCD-1064Sk skin fibroblasts, the effect of metformin, triacetylresveratrol, and rapamycin combined with phytocannabinoids on cellular viability, functional activity, metabolic function, and nuclear architecture was tested. We found triacetylresveratrol combined with cannabidiol increased the viability of skin fibroblasts (p < 0.0001), restored wound-healing functional activity (p < 0.001), reduced metabolic dysfunction, and ameliorated nuclear eccentricity and circularity in senescent fibroblasts (p < 0.01). Conversely, metformin with or without phytocannabinoids did not show any beneficial effects on functional activity, while rapamycin inhibited cell viability (p < 0.01) and the speed of wound healing (p < 0.001). Therefore, triacetylresveratrol and cannabidiol can be a valuable source of biologically active substances used in aging and more studies using animals to confirm the efficacy of cannabidiol combined with triacetylresveratrol should be performed.

Fabrication of Ethosomes Containing Tocopherol Acetate to Enhance Transdermal Permeation: In Vitro and Ex Vivo Characterizations

Background: Tocopherol acetate (TA) is known as a skin moisturizing and photoprotective agent. One major drawback with tocopherol and its derivatives remains its limited stability. Aim: To develop highly stable TA-containing ethosomal gel (TAEG) as an advanced dosage form. Methods: A cold method technique was used to produce the ethosomes. An in vitro evaluation of viscosity, conductivity, and pH stability was carried out for three months. An in vitro physical characterization of the nanoparticles (NPs) that included particle size (PS), zeta potential (ZP), transmission electron microscopy (TEM), and Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy analysis was then performed. Organoleptic evaluation, thermostability at 8 °C, 25 °C, 40 °C and 40 °C ± 75% RH, pH, conductivity, viscosity, and spreadability measurements were also performed in vitro for three months. An ex vivo permeation study was performed in phosphate-buffered solution (1× PBS; pH 5.5 or pH 7.4) at 37 ± 0.2 °C by using rat abdominal skin and the Franz diffusion cell method. The data of three independent experiments were expressed as mean ± SD. A two-way ANOVA was applied to compare data on TAEG versus TA control gel (TACG). Results: PS of the ethosomes was in the range of 144−289 nm. A total of nine formulations were developed. Optimized TAEG formulation (TA-5) was selected based on the highest entrapment efficiency (EE) of 99.71%, while the stability, the PS, and the uniformity-based polydispersity index (PDI) were also among the best. TA-5 exhibited smooth spherical ethosomal NPs with PS of 200.6 nm, ZP value of −18.6 V, and PDI of 0.465. Stability data obtained for TA-5 in terms of rheology, conductivity, and pH presented no significant change (p > 0.05) during the entire study duration. Rheological studies indicated that TA-5 followed a non-Newtonian behavior of shear thinning system. The ex vivo drug permeation was 44.55 ± 0.01% in TA-5 and the drug retention in skin was 51.20%, which was significantly higher than TACG as observed after 24 h permeation study (p < 0.05). Conclusions: The newly developed TAEG formulation appears promising to enhance the effectivity of TA and its topical application.

Preliminary Studies on an Innovative Bioactive Skin Soluble Beauty Mask Made by Combining Electrospinning and Dry Powder Impregnation

The world of cosmetics is now aiming at biobased materials which are skin-compatible and can be used to generate more sustainable beauty masks with enhanced bioactivity. This work presents, in this line of interest, the combination of two innovative technologies, namely electrospinning and dry powder impregnation, to generate biobased skin soluble electrospun pullulan carriers dry impregnated with chitin nanofibrils-nanolignin-glycyrrethinic acid (CLA) complexes, as effective biobased and skin compatible beauty masks. The scalability of the pullulan electrospun carrier and bioactive complexes impregnation were optimized and the morphology evaluated. Subsequently, skin compatibility and mask effectiveness were investigated in vitro and in vivo. The results showed that cell viability was optimal for both impregnated and neat pullulan fibers. Additionally, the CLA impregnated pullulan fibers were able to upregulate the endogenous antimicrobial molecule HBD-2. Preliminary studies in vivo indicated that the beauty mask containing the CLA complexes significantly decreased area, length and depth of forehead and crow’s feet wrinkles, and significantly increased moisturizing levels in the skin. The developed beauty mask was also seen to increase skin firmness, while it did not show skin irritation after the test. The work demonstrates that the combination of these two technologies may open new alternatives to more sustainable bioactive cosmetic products for the skin.

Rosmarinus officinalis L. (Rosemary): An Ancient Plant with Uses in Personal Healthcare and Cosmetics

This work is a bibliographical review of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) that focuses on the application of derivatives of this plant for cosmetic products, an application which has been recognized and valued since Ancient Egyptian times. Rosemary is a plant of Mediterranean origin that has been distributed throughout different areas of the world. It has many medicinal properties, and its extracts have been used (mainly orally) in folk medicine. It belongs to the Labiatae family, which contains several genera—such as Salvia, Lavandula, and Thymus—that are commonly used in cosmetics, due to their high prevalence of antioxidant molecules. Rosemary is a perennial shrub that grows in the wild or is cultivated. It has glandular hairs that emit fragrant volatile essential oils (mainly monoterpenes) in response to drought conditions in the Mediterranean climate. It also contains diterpenes such as carnosic acid and other polyphenolic molecules. Herein, the botanical and ecological characteristics of the plant are discussed, as well as the main bioactive compounds found in its volatile essential oil and in leaf extracts. Afterward, we review the applications of rosemary in cosmetics, considering its preservative power, the kinds of products in which it is used, and its toxicological safety, as well as its current uses or future applications in topical preparations, according to recent and ongoing studies.

Prosopis juliflora as a new cosmetic ingredient: Development and clinical evaluation of a bioactive moisturizing and anti-aging innovative solid core

Prosopis juliflora is an invasive plant distributed throughout the world and presents metabolites of interest for cosmetology. The aim of this work was to develop a new polysaccharide-based ingredient from P. juliflora and analyze its application in a solid core formulation that upon contact with water instantly forms a gel to improve moisturizing and anti-aging skin properties. Purified extracts by gel chromatography were characterized by NMR and LC-DAD-MS-MS. The in vitro and in vivo safety, antioxidant activity, formulation development and clinical evaluation were performed. The extract was characterized as containing an α-glucan and phenolics. It was non-cytotoxic, non-phototoxic and no skin reactions were observed in vivo. Antioxidant activity were present through different mechanisms. Clinical evaluation reinforced the potential of P. juliflora in skin hydration and microrelief improvement. This innovative form proved to be a prototype of a new product and the first study of an α-glucan as a cosmetic ingredient.

Monfortinho Thermal Water-Based Creams: Effects on Skin Hydration, Psoriasis, and Eczema in Adults

The use of mineral water for therapeutic purposes has varied from century to century and from country to country. Its effectiveness depends on the individual experiences of the population and their cultural traditions. Usually, the waters recommended for dermatological treatment are hot springs that contain sulfur or more recently, silicon. The mechanisms by which mineral waters actuate in dermatological disorders are still not clear but it is believed that they involve thermal, mechanical, chemical, immunologic, and anti-oxidant reactions and enzymatic activity. The aim of this study is to characterize the thermal waters of Monfortinho, one of the oldest Portuguese spas, their potential use for the preparation of dermatological formulations (creams), and their effectiveness on the treatment of skin disorders (psoriasis and eczema). To accomplish this, cream formulations with different contents of thermal water were developed. The formulations were characterized in terms of thermal water analysis and physicochemical properties and their effects were studied by skin biometrics in adults (mean age of 54.3 years old) through skin hydration evaluation and evaluated in clinical studies on 22 patients with psoriasis and eczema. The results showed that all the formulations improved the skin hydration and have beneficial effects in relieving the symptoms of psoriasis and other disorders, but no significant differences were observed when thermal water was used (compared to laboratory ultra-pure water).