Tyrosinase and Melanogenesis Inhibition by Indigenous African Plants: A Review

A Bayesian network meta-analysis of 14 molecules inhibiting UV daylight-induced pigmentation

INTRODUCTION

Hyperpigmentation disorders are very frequent, affect the quality of life and may become a psychological burden for afflicted patients. Many anti-pigmenting or depigmenting agents are available with various efficacy and almost no comparative data. 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) was recently proposed as a viable candidate showing safe and effective results on hyperpigmentation control in vitro and in vivo.

OBJECTIVES

A Bayesian network meta-analysis (BNMA) was conducted to map and rank the anti-pigmenting and depigmenting efficacy of 2-MNG 0.5% on UV daylight (UVDL)-induced pigmentation together with 13 other reference molecules. A comparison in the kinetics of 2-MNG 0.5% was also performed.

METHODOLOGY

Fourteen studies were conducted, for each, on 15-30 women of skin phototype III in Shanghai, China and Paris, France. The products were applied on mini zone, in randomized and blinded protocol, on the back, 5 days a week during 6 weeks, at a dose of 4 mg/cm2 . During the second week, volunteers were exposed under to varying minimum erythemal dose of UVDL during 4 consecutive days-adapted to obtain a similar induction of skin pigmentation regardless of the population. Assessments were performed instrumentally using Chromameter®. Ascorbic acid 7% was used as a positive control for all experiments. A Bayesian network meta-analysis was then established to map and follow the kinetics of 2-MNG 0.5% performance with 13 reference molecules (glutathione 2%, kojic acid 1%, hydroquinone 4%, ascorbyl glucoside 2%, niacinamide 4%, etc.).

RESULTS

2-MNG 0.5% dominated the ranking at all time points with a significant high probability of strong efficacy against UVDL-induced pigmentation. Ascorbic acid 7% ranks second after 4 days of irradiations (D12 ) whereas hydroquinone 4% ranks second 1 month after irradiations (D40 ). In the kinetics, 2-MNG at 0.5% was effective as from the end of irradiations (D12 ) to the study endpoint (D40 ). This suggested an immediate and persistent efficacy across all timepoints evaluated.

CONCLUSION

The BNMA revealed a rapid and lasting efficacy of 2-MNG 0.5% on the anti-pigmenting and depigmenting phases of the clinical protocol. 2-MNG 0.5% ranked first, with immediate and lasting effect compared to 13 other references. This study is the first allowing comparison between reference anti-pigmenting and depigmenting agents and will help clinicians for proposing the most effective approach for their patients.

Orbitrap Mass Spectrometry-Based Profiling of Secondary Metabolites in Two Unexplored Eminium Species and Bioactivity Potential

The study aimed at the metabolite profiling and evaluation of antioxidant and enzyme inhibitory properties of methanol extracts from flowers, leaves, and tubers of unexplored Eminium intortum (Banks & Sol.) Kuntze and E. spiculatum (Blume) Schott (Araceae). A total of 83 metabolites, including 19 phenolic acids, 46 flavonoids, 11 amino, and 7 fatty acids were identified by UHPLC-HRMS in the studied extracts for the first time. E. intortum flower and leaf extracts had the highest total phenolic and flavonoid contents (50.82 ± 0.71 mg GAE/g and 65.08 ± 0.38 RE/g, respectively). Significant radical scavenging activity (32.20 ± 1.26 and 54.34 ± 0.53 mg TE/g for DPPH and ABTS) and reducing power (88.27 ± 1.49 and 33.13 ± 0.68 mg TE/g for CUPRAC and FRAP) were observed in leaf extracts. E. intortum flowers showed the maximum anticholinesterase activity (2.72 ± 0.03 mg GALAE/g). E. spiculatum leaves and tubers exhibited the highest inhibition towards α-glucosidase (0.99 ± 0.02 ACAE/g) and tirosinase (50.73 ± 2.29 mg KAE/g), respectively. A multivariate analysis revealed that O-hydroxycinnamoylglycosyl-C-flavonoid glycosides mostly accounted for the discrimination of both species. Thus, E. intortum and E. spiculatum can be considered as potential candidates for designing functional ingredients in the pharmaceutical and nutraceutical industries.

The elastase and melanogenesis inhibitory and anti-inflammatory activities of phosvitin phosphopeptides produced using high-temperature and mild-pressure (HTMP) pretreatment and enzyme hydrolysis combinations

This study aimed to determine the skin protective effect of egg yolk phosvitin phosphopeptides (PPPs). Phosvitin was separated from the egg yolk, and PPPs were produced using high-temperature and mild-pressure (HTMP) pretreatment and enzyme-sterilization hydrolysis combinations. The elastase and melanogenesis inhibitory activities and anti-inflammatory effects of egg yolk PPPs were determined. All PPPs significantly inhibited elastase activity, but the PPPs prepared with HTMP pretreatment and trypsin-sterilization (HTMP-T-S) combination suppressed the tyrosinase activity the most. PPPs (3 mg/mL) inhibited the α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced melanin production in B16F10 melanoma cells by 31.18 to 38.58%. In addition, PPPs effectively inhibited nitric oxide (NO) production in the LPS (lipopolysaccharide)-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages, and the PPPs from HTMP-T-S exhibited the highest inhibitory activity. The protein expressions of pro-inflammatory enzymes, inducible nitric oxide synthase, and cyclooxygenase-2 were down-regulated by the PPPs from the HTMP-T-S. Therefore, PPPs could be used as an anti-melanogenic, anti-elastase, and anti-inflammatory agent for humans and skin care products.

Quercetin 3-O-Galactoside Isolated from Limonium tetragonum Inhibits Melanogenesis by Regulating PKA/MITF Signaling and ERK Activation

Quercetin 3-O-galactoside (Q3G) is a common dietary flavanol that has been shown to possess several bioactivities, including anti-melanogenesis. However, how Q3G exerts its anti-melanogenic effect has not been studied. The current study, therefore aimed to investigate the anti-melanogenesis potential of Q3G and elucidate the underlying action mechanism in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced hyperpigmentation model of B16F10 murine melanoma cells. Results showed that α-MSH stimulation significantly increased tyrosinase (TYR) and melanin production, which were significantly downregulated by Q3G treatment. The treatment with Q3G suppressed the transcriptional and protein expressions of melanogenesis-related enzymes TYR, tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2, along with the melanogenic transcription factor microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in B16F10 cells. It was shown that Q3G downregulated MITF expression and suppressed its transcriptional activity by inhibiting the cAMP-dependent protein kinase A (PKA)-mediated activation of CREB and GSK3β. In addition, MAPK-regulated MITF activation signaling was also involved in the inhibition of melanin production by Q3G. The results suggest that the anti-melanogenic properties of Q3G rationalize further studies in vivo to confirm its action mechanism and consequent utilization as a cosmetic ingredient against hyperpigmentation.

Comparative Investigation of Chemical Constituents of Kernels, Leaves, Husk, and Bark of Juglans regia L., Using HPLC-DAD-ESI-MS/MS Analysis and Evaluation of Their Antioxidant, Antidiabetic, and Anti-Inflammatory Activities

Leaves, husk, kernels, and bark methanolic extracts of Juglans regia L. were tested for their in vitro antidiabetic, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant activities. For these purposes, α-amylase and α-glucosidase were used as the main enzymes to evaluate antidiabetic activities. Moreover, lipoxidase and tyrosinase activities were tested to estimate anti-inflammatory properties. Antioxidant properties of Juglans regia L., extracts were determined using three different assays. Leaves extract has an important radical scavenging activity and a-amylase inhibition. Similarly, husk extracts showed high total phenolic content (306.36 ± 4.74 mg gallic acid equivalent/g dry extract) with an important α-amylase inhibition (IC50 = 75.42 ± 0.99 µg/mL). Kernels exhibit significant tyrosinase (IC50 = 51.38 ± 0.81 µg/mL) correlated with antioxidant activities (p < 0.05). Husk and bark extracts also showed strong anti-lipoxidase activities with IC50 equal to 29.48 ± 0.28 and 28.58 ± 0.35 µg/mL, respectively. HPLC-DAD-ESI-MS/MS analysis highlights the phenolic profile of methanolic extracts of Juglans regia L. plant parts. The identified polyphenols were known for their antioxidant, antidiabetic (dicaffeoyl-quinic acid glycoside in kernels), and anti-inflammatory (3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid in leaves) activities. Further investigations are needed to determine molecular mechanisms involved in these effects as well as to study the properties of the main identified compounds.

Bioassay-Guided Characterization, Antioxidant, Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Photoaging Activities of Pueraria thunbergiana L. Leaf Extracts in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (HaCaT) Cells

Although the roots and flowers of P. thunbergiana are known to have various physiologically active effects, studies on the anti-melanin production and anti-photoaging effects of its leaf extracts and cellular mechanisms are still lacking. In this study, we evaluated the possibility of using Pueraria thunbergiana leaves as a natural material for skin whitening and anti-aging-related functional cosmetics. The 30% ethyl alcohol (EtOH) extract from P. thunbergiana leaves was fractionated using n-hexane, ethyl acetate (EtOAc), butanol, and aqueous solution to measure their whitening, and anti-aging effects. The EtOAc fraction contained a high content of phenolic and flavonoids and showed higher 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS) radical scavenging activities than the other fractions. It was also confirmed that the EtOAc fraction markedly inhibited α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. In addition, the EtOAc fraction showed a protective effect against ultraviolet B (UVB) in HaCaT cells and increased the collagen synthesis that was decreased due to UVB exposure. Matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) activity and MMP-1 protein expression were reduced in human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT) cells. These results indicate that the EtOAc fraction has superior antioxidant activity, anti-melanogenesis, and anti-photoaging effects compared to the other fractions. Therefore, in this study, we confirmed the potential of P. thunbergiana leaf extract as a functional cosmetic ingredient, and it can be used as basic data for the physiological activity of P. thunbergiana leaf extracts.

Laccases and Tyrosinases in Organic Synthesis

Laccases (Lac) and tyrosinases (TYR) are mild oxidants with a great potential in research and industry. In this work, we review recent advances in their use in organic synthesis. We summarize recent examples of Lac-catalyzed oxidation, homocoupling and heterocoupling, and TYR-catalyzed ortho-hydroxylation of phenols. We highlight the combination of Lac and TYR with other enzymes or chemical catalysts. We also point out the biological and pharmaceutical potential of the products, such as dimers of piceid, lignols, isorhamnetin, rutin, caffeic acid, 4-hydroxychalcones, thiols, hybrid antibiotics, benzimidazoles, benzothiazoles, pyrimidine derivatives, hydroxytyrosols, alkylcatechols, halocatechols, or dihydrocaffeoyl esters, etc. These products include radical scavengers; antibacterial, antiviral, and antitumor compounds; and building blocks for bioactive compounds and drugs. We summarize the available enzyme sources and discuss the scalability of their use in organic synthesis. In conclusion, we assume that the intensive use of laccases and tyrosinases in organic synthesis will yield new bioactive compounds and, in the long-term, reduce the environmental impact of industrial organic chemistry.

Spreading of Dangerous Skin-Lightening Products as a Result of Colourism: A Review

The use of bleaching products can have a medical or cosmetic purpose; in the latter case, skin whitening is most widespread in countries where darker skin tones prevail and can be driven by psychosocial, cultural and economic reasons. Skin-whitening products containing highly toxic active ingredients (in particular mercury derivatives, hydroquinone and corticosteroids) are easily found on the market; the use of these depigmenting agents can be followed by a variety of adverse effects, with very serious and sometimes fatal complications, and is currently an emerging health concern in many countries. This article concisely discusses the reasons for the current prevalence of skin lightening products and provides an overview of the skin lightening agents that pose a threat to human health. The review also reports market surveillance data on the circulation of banned skin lighteners in Europe, obtained through the Safety Gate system.

Untargeted Phenolic Profiling and Functional Insights of the Aerial Parts and Bulbs of Drimia maritima (L.) Stearn

Drimia maritima (L.) Stearn (squill), belonging to the Asparagaceae family, is acknowledged as a medicinally valuable species from the Drimia genera. In this study, water, methanol, and ethyl acetate extracts of D. maritima aerial parts and bulbs were investigated for their polyphenols profile and evaluated for their antioxidant and enzyme inhibition properties. Phenolics were profiled through an untargeted metabolomics approach using an ultra-high pressure liquid chromatograph coupled to quadrupole-time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UHPLC-QTOF-MS). This analysis revealed an enrichment of low molecular weight phenolics and flavonoids in the aerial parts of D. maritima, while lignans mainly characterized bulb extracts. Antioxidant capacity was investigated by different assays, including phosphomolybdenum assays, radical scavenging (DPPH: 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl; ABTS: 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid)), as well as reducing ability (CUPRAC: cupric reducing antioxidant capacity; FRAP: ferric reducing antioxidant power), and metal chelating. In radical scavenging and reducing power assays, the water extract of aerial parts exhibited the strongest ability (DPPH: 36.99 mg trolox equivalent (TE)/g; ABTS: 85.96 mg TE/g; CUPRAC: 87.37 mg TE/g; FRAP: 55.43 mg TE/g). In general, the ethyl acetate extracts from aerial parts and bulbs provided the weakest antioxidant capacity. Concerning enzyme inhibitory activities, the water extracts of the bulb were poorly active, while the ethyl acetate extracts from both plant portions displayed the best α-amylase inhibitory abilities. The best acetylcholinesterase (AChE) and butyrylcholinesterase (BChE) abilities were recorded by ethyl acetate extract of aerial parts (2.36 mg galantamine equivalent (GALAE)/g) and bulbs (5.10 mg GALAE/g), respectively. Overall, these results support the medicinal aptitude of D. maritima and its possible use as a natural source of antioxidants and enzyme inhibitors with functional potential.

In vitro cosmeceutical activity of alcoholic extract from chestnut inner shell fermented with Aspergillus sojae

Chestnut inner shell was fermented in solid state with Aspergillus sojae, and then extracted using ethanol (95%) to analyze its cosmeceutical activity and phenolic composition. The fermentation significantly increased the antioxidant activity, and in vitro cosmeceutical activities. The ethanol extract showed the higher activities than ethyl acetate and water extracts. DPPH radical scavenging activity of the alcoholic extract was 80.53%, and tyrosinase and elastase inhibition activities were 101.01%, and 76.73%, respectively, after 10 days of fermentation. Kojic acid, a secondary metabolite of A. sojae was produced by the fermentation as a major bioactive component. Gallic acid, ellagic acid, and coumaric acid appeared the major phenolic acids in the alcoholic extract from fermented chestnut inner shell. The alcoholic extract from chestnut inner shell fermented by A. sojae may be used as an effective and bioactive cosmeceutical.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s10068-022-01044-9.

Skin Depigmenting Agents in Anti-Aging Cosmetics: A Medicinal Perspective on Emerging Ingredients

Human skin aging results from intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Uneven pigmentation is one of the major changes of extrinsic aging. Many compounds have been tested for depigmenting activity but only a few are actually used by the cosmetic industry, which is continually looking for new ingredients. In this study, the trends in the use of skin depigmenting ingredients in a panel of anti-aging formulations commercialized in the Portuguese pharmacy market were analyzed, by comparing the composition of the products marketed in 2011 with products launched or reformulated in 2018 (59% and 74%, respectively). The analysis of the top 12 ingredients put forward three novelties for 2018: tranexamic acid, bakuchiol, and 4-butylresorcinol. Regarding their mechanisms of action, tranexamic acid inhibits melanin synthesis through inhibition of the plasminogen/plasmin system. Bakuchiol depigmenting efficacy was attributed to the ability to block both α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone and tyrosinase activation, while 4-butylresorcinol exerts its action through the inhibition of both tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1). Industry-optimized and efficient synthetic methodologies that embrace green chemistry, reducing the environmental impact, are commonly used. This analysis aims to bring insights to both formulators, involved in the development of depigmenting cosmetic products, and chemists performing the synthesis of new and existing compounds intended for this purpose.

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients

The interest in plant extracts and natural compounds in cosmetic formulations is growing. Natural products may significantly improve cosmetics performance since they have both cosmetic and therapeutic-like properties, known as cosmeceutical effects. Glycyrrhiza genus, belonging to the Leguminosae family, comprises more than 30 species, widely distributed worldwide. The rhizomes and roots are the most important medicinal parts currently used in pharmaceutical industries and in the production of functional foods and food supplements. In the last few years, the interest in their potential activities in cosmetic formulations has greatly increased. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are widely implemented in cosmetic products for their good whitening effect. The biological effects of Glycyrrhiza extracts are especially ascribable to the occurrence of specialized metabolites belonging to the flavonoid class. This review focuses on the botany and the chemistry of the main investigated Glycyrrhiza spp. (G. glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) along with their cosmeceutical activities categorized as skin anti-aging, photoprotective, hair care, and anti-acne. It has been highlighted how, along with Glycyrrhiza extracts, three main flavonoids namely licochalcone A, glabridin, and dehydroglyasperin C are the most investigated compounds. It is noteworthy that other molecules from licorice show potential cosmeceutical effects. These data suggest further investigations to clarify their potential value for cosmetic industries.

Spirulina for Skin Care: A Bright Blue Future

Spirulina stands out as a sustainable bioactive microalga with health-promoting properties, and an important active ingredient of natural cosmetics products. Currently, Spirulina has been incorporated in topical skin-care formulations, such as a moisturizing, antiwrinkles, antiaging and antiacne agent. Furthermore, this microalga is used by cosmetic formulators to promote healthy sunscreen protection, to treat skin pigmentation disorders and to heal wounds. Most of commercial cosmetics claim a large range of Spirulina properties, including antioxidant, revitalizing, remineralizing, moisturizing, protecting alongside cleansing and shining action, both for hair and for skin. In this review, recent cosmetic applications of Spirulina are revised, by highlighting its ability in improving skin appearance and health. Additionally, the analysis of the Spirulina cosmetic benchmark is discussed. Looking at the current emergence of the beauty industry, many Spirulina extracts and dry powder/flakes, both the starting ingredient and final Spirulina-based cosmetic products, are available on the market. In this industrial field, Spirulina—mainly Spirulina platensis and Spirulina maxima—is used either as a powder, like in the case of cheaper products, or as a phycocyanin-rich blue extract, particularly in the luxury market. It is likely that, in the coming years, diversity, quality and topical applications of Spirulina will rapidly increase.