Efficacy evaluation of a multifunctional cosmetic formulation: the benefits of a combination of active antioxidant substances

Safety Assessment of Ginkgo biloba-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 10 Ginkgo biloba-derived ingredients, which are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as skin conditioning agents or antioxidants. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. The Panel was concerned about the presence of ginkgolic acid in cosmetics. Industry should use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities. The Panel concluded that 5 Ginkgo biloba leaf-derived ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-sensitizing; data are insufficient to determine the safety of the remaining 5 ingredients under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

Positive and ecobiological contribution in skin photoprotection of ectoine and mannitol combined in vivo with UV filters

BACKGROUND

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes immunosuppression, photoaging, and carcinogenesis by induction of a cascade of skin damages. Sunscreens currently on the market are not absorbing UV rays uniformly throughout the full UV range, high sun protection factor (SPF) sunscreens absorb most of UVB rays but are less effective in absorbing the UVA part of the spectrum. In the context, one approach could consist of preserving the skin natural resources and mechanisms, which is the foundation of the ecobiological approach, by combing UV filters and antioxidants to enhance their photoprotective effect.

METHODS

First, the photoprotection properties of ectoine and mannitol association were characterized by the quantification of glutathione, reactive oxygen species, and double-stranded DNA breaks and by the epidermal Langerhans cells functionality. Second, the protection of squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and trans-urocanic acid (UCA) by the ectoine and mannitol association combined or not with SPF30 UV filters was assessed in vivo via non-invasive skin samplings in 10 subjects on irradiated areas.

RESULTS

Using in vitro irradiated skin cell models, we demonstrated that this association significantly preserved intracellular glutathione levels, reduced DNA strand breaks induced by oxidative stress, and maintained Langerhans cell functionality. In vivo this association combined with UV filters presented significantly higher protection of three natural defense systems altered by UV compared to UV filters alone: squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and preservation of trans-UCA.

CONCLUSION

This study demonstrates the ecobiological potential of combining UV filters with biological protection to increase skin photoprotection provided by specific active ingredients with antioxidative and immunosuppressive properties.

Skin pore imaging using spectral-domain optical coherence tomography: a case report

Sebum is an important component of the skin that has attracted attention in many fields, including dermatology and cosmetics. Pore expansion due to sebum on the skin can lead to various problems. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze the morphological characteristics of sebum. In this study, we used optical coherence tomography (OCT) to evaluate facial sebum areas. We obtained the OCT maximum amplitude projection (MAP) image and a cross-sectional image of skin pores in the facial area. Subsequently, we detected the sebum in skin pores using the detection algorithm of the ImageJ software to quantitatively determine the size of randomly selected pores in the proposed MAP images. Additionally, the pore size was analyzed by acquiring images before and after facial sebum extraction. According to our research, facial sebum can be morphologically described using the OCT system. Since OCT imaging enables specific analysis of skin parameters, including pores and sebum, skin analysis employing OCT could be an effective method for further research.

The Potential of Algae in the Nutricosmetic Sector

Seaweeds or algae are marine autotrophic organisms. They produce nutrients (e.g., proteins, carbohydrates, etc.) essential for the survival of living organisms as they participate in biochemical processes and non-nutritive molecules (such as dietary fibers and secondary metabolites), which can improve their physiological functions. Seaweed polysaccharides, fatty acids, peptides, terpenoids, pigments, and polyphenols have biological properties that can be used to develop food supplements and nutricosmetic products as they can act as antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory compounds. This review examines the (primary and secondary) metabolites produced by algae, the most recent evidence of their effect on human health conditions, with particular attention to what concerns the skin and hair's well-being. It also evaluates the industrial potential of recovering these metabolites from biomass produced by algae used to clean wastewater. The results demonstrate that algae can be considered a natural source of bioactive molecules for well-being formulations. The primary and secondary metabolites' upcycling can be an exciting opportunity to safeguard the planet (promoting a circular economy) and, at the same time, obtain low-cost bioactive molecules for the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries from low-cost, raw, and renewable materials. Today's lack of methodologies for recovering bioactive molecules in large-scale processes limits practical realization.

Excessive Facial Wrinkling Is Associated with COPD Occurrence-Does COPD Damage Skin Beauty and Quality?

The aim of this study was to investigate facial wrinkling in COPD patients, its relationship with lung function parameters, and the differences in wrinkling between COPD patients and smokers without COPD. The study included 56 patients with COPD with smoking history and 84 controls. Wrinkle intensity was measured and classified using Daniell's grading system, and the total length of wrinkles was also estimated. The predominant grades of Daniell's scale were IV-V for COPD patients (89.3% of current and 75.0% of former smokers), III-V for controls who currently smoke (89.2%), and II-III for former (92.9%) and never smokers (100%) controls. These distributions were statistically significantly different, but current and former smokers with COPD and COPD former smokers and control current smokers did not differ. In terms of the total length of wrinkles, the COPD patients possessed significantly longer wrinkles than the control subgroups (all p-values were <0.004). Negative correlations between wrinkle length and lung parameters were found. This phenomenon seems to be independent of smoking, but the length of wrinkles is related to lung function parameters. It seems that not only smoking but also COPD damages skin beauty and quality.

Seaweed for climate mitigation, wastewater treatment, bioenergy, bioplastic, biochar, food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics: a review

The development and recycling of biomass production can partly solve issues of energy, climate change, population growth, food and feed shortages, and environmental pollution. For instance, the use of seaweeds as feedstocks can reduce our reliance on fossil fuel resources, ensure the synthesis of cost-effective and eco-friendly products and biofuels, and develop sustainable biorefinery processes. Nonetheless, seaweeds use in several biorefineries is still in the infancy stage compared to terrestrial plants-based lignocellulosic biomass. Therefore, here we review seaweed biorefineries with focus on seaweed production, economical benefits, and seaweed use as feedstock for anaerobic digestion, biochar, bioplastics, crop health, food, livestock feed, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Globally, seaweeds could sequester between 61 and 268 megatonnes of carbon per year, with an average of 173 megatonnes. Nearly 90% of carbon is sequestered by exporting biomass to deep water, while the remaining 10% is buried in coastal sediments. 500 gigatonnes of seaweeds could replace nearly 40% of the current soy protein production. Seaweeds contain valuable bioactive molecules that could be applied as antimicrobial, antioxidant, antiviral, antifungal, anticancer, contraceptive, anti-inflammatory, anti-coagulants, and in other cosmetics and skincare products.

Hydrolipidic Characteristics and Clinical Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Formulation for the Improvement of Homeostasis on Oily Mature Skin

BACKGROUND

Although the scientific literature associates mature skin with dry skin and the secretion of sebum on the face decreases over the years, in tropical countries, such as Brazil, mature skin can still present oily characteristics. Thus, the knowledge of the hydrophilic characteristics of mature skin is fundamental to help the development of more effective treatments for this skin type. In this context, the study aimed to evaluate the hydrophilic characteristics and the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for mature skin added with alfalfa and lentil extracts by using biophysical and skin imaging techniques.

METHODS

Twenty-eight healthy females aged between 45 and 59 years were enrolled. Measurements of the stratum corneum water content, sebum content, transepidermal water loss, skin microrelief, and pores count were performed before and after the 28-day formulation application.

RESULTS

The mature skin presented as oily with wrinkles and pores. The proposed formulation significantly reduced the sebum content and the number of fine and large pores and improved skin microrelief and hydration after a 28-day period of the application when compared to the vehicle.

CONCLUSIONS

The proposed formulation was effective in oily mature skin treatment, improving its general skin aging and oiliness conditions, and reducing pores count in just 28 days.

Development, Characterization, and Clinical Investigation of a New Topical Emulsion System Containing a Castanea sativa Spiny Burs Active Extract

The study focused on the development and characterization of an O/W emulsion for skincare containing Castanea sativa spiny burs extract (CSE) as functional agent. The emulsion was stable and had suitable physicochemical and technological properties for dermal application and CSE showed no cytotoxicity in spontaneously immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) at active concentrations. A single-blind, placebo-controlled, monocentric study was designed to evaluate the skin tolerability and the skin performance of the CSE-loaded emulsion on healthy human volunteers. An improvement was observed in skin biomechanical properties such as hydration, skin elasticity and a reduction in the periorbital wrinkles in 30 days without altering the skin barrier function, sebum, pH, and erythema values. A significant skin moisturizing effect was detected while the skin barrier function was preserved. The selected natural ingredient combined with the designed formulation and the optimized preparation method has led to a final product that satisfies the physico-chemical and technological requirements underlying the safety of use and the formulative stability over time. With no negative skin reactions and highly significant effects on skin elasticity, wrinkles, and moisturization, the CSE-based emulsion achieved very satisfying outcomes representing a promising functional formulation for skin care.

Applying Seaweed Compounds in Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

The interest in seaweeds for cosmetic, cosmeceutics, and nutricosmetics is increasing based on the demand for natural ingredients. Seaweeds offer advantages in relation to their renewable character, wide distribution, and the richness and versatility of their valuable bioactive compounds, which can be used as ingredients, as additives, and as active agents in the formulation of skin care products. Bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols, polysaccharides, proteins, peptides, amino acids, lipids, vitamins, and minerals, are responsible for the biological properties associated with seaweeds. Seaweed fractions can also offer technical features, such as thickening, gelling, emulsifying, texturizing, or moistening to develop cohesive matrices. Furthermore, the possibility of valorizing industrial waste streams and algal blooms makes them an attractive, low cost, raw and renewable material. This review presents an updated summary of the activities of different seaweed compounds and fractions based on scientific and patent literature.

Retaining Skin Barrier Function Properties of the Stratum Corneum with Components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor-A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Double-Blind In Vivo Study

The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This method allowed for the elucidation of subtle differences between the verum and the placebo even though the components of the verum naturally occur in the SC. This differentiation is not possible non-invasively by conventional methods. In this study, we found that the applied verum and placebo formulations disrupted the equilibrium of water, NMF and lipids in the SC. The adverse effects of the formulation could be mitigated by incorporating it into a simplified supplementation of NMF molecules. As a long-term effect, the amount of strongly bound water increases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) and the amount of weakly bound water decreases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) for the verum. This supplement was also unexpectedly able to prevent intercellular lipids (ICL) disorganization in selected depths. In the long term, the verum treatment limited the lateral disorganization of the ICL to the upper 20% SC depth. Further research is required to elucidate the interplay of these factors in the SC, to better understand their contribution to the equilibrium and barrier function of the skin. This understanding of the interaction of these naturally occurring components could help in the future to develop and optimize topical treatments for diseases like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis where the skin barrier is disrupted.

Topical application and oral supplementation of peptides in the improvement of skin viscoelasticity and density

BACKGROUND

The combination of oral supplementation and topical formulations to the improvement of skin conditions has been proposed as an innovative approach to obtain effective treatments. However, studies comparing the effectiveness of each type of treatments are still in lack. This way, the objective of this work was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of a dermocosmetic formulation with di- and tripeptides, as well the effects of an oral supplementation based on hydrolyzed collagen through biophysical and skin imaging techniques.

METHODS

Sixty healthy female subjects, aged between 40 and 50 years, were enrolled, being separated in 3 groups: topical formulation, oral supplementation, and oral placebo. The stratum corneum water content, skin viscoelasticity, dermis echogenicity, and skin pores parameters were evaluated.

RESULTS

The group with the topical formulation showed a significant increase in the stratum corneum water content and skin elasticity after 28-day period and also acted in the dermis echogenicity after 90 days with the formulation with peptides. The oral supplementation acted on skin elasticity and presented a more pronounced effect on dermis echogenicity, reducing skin pores after 90-day period.

CONCLUSION

The obtained results with oral supplementation and topical application of hydrolyzed proteins were considered complementary in the improvement of general skin conditions, acting in different mechanisms.

Topical Formulation Containing Beeswax-Based Nanoparticles Improved In Vivo Skin Barrier Function

Lipid nanoparticles have shown many advantages for treatment/prevention of skin disorders with damaged skin barrier function. Beeswax is a favorable candidate for the development of nanosystems in the cosmetic and dermatological fields because of its advantages for the development of products for topical application. In the present study, beeswax-based nanoparticles (BNs) were prepared using the hot melt microemulsion technique and incorporated to a gel-cream formulation. The formulation was subsequently evaluated for its rheological stability and effect on stratum corneum water content (SCWC) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) using in vivo biophysical techniques. BNs resulted in mean particle size of 95.72 ± 9.63 nm and zeta potential of -9.85 ± 0.57 mV. BN-loaded formulation showed shear thinning behavior, well adjusted by the Herschel-Bulkley model, and a small thixotropy index that were stable for 28 days at different temperatures. BN-loaded formulation was also able to simultaneously decrease the TEWL and increase the SCWC values 28 days after treatment. In conclusion, the novel beeswax-based nanoparticles showed potential for barrier recovery and open the perspective for its commercial use as a novel natural active as yet unexplored in the field of dermatology and cosmetics for treatment of skin diseases with damaged skin barrier function.

An Insight into the Changes in Skin Texture and Properties following Dietary Intervention with a Nutricosmeceutical Containing a Blend of Collagen Bioactive Peptides and Antioxidants

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is a multifactorial phenomenon which causes alterations in skin physiological functions and, most visibly, phenotypic changes. In particular, during the aging process, hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin fibers undergo structural and functional changes.

AIMS

This study aimed to give an insight into the photo-protective benefits and efficacy of an oral liquid nutricosmeceutical containing collagen bioactive peptides and antioxidants to counteract the signs of aging.

METHODS

A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial was conducted by an independent esthetic clinic on 120 healthy volunteer subjects for 90 days. Subjects were divided into 2 groups: 60 subjects consumed 1 bottle (50 mL) of the nutricosmeceutical daily and the other 60 consumed 1 bottle (50 mL) of the placebo. Outcome measures were related to skin elasticity (expressed as Young's elasticity modulus) and skin architecture (histological analysis). In addition, the subjects recruited in this study underwent observational assessments through self-assessment questionnaires.

RESULTS AND CONCLUSIONS

Overall, we demonstrated a significant increase in skin elasticity (+7.5%), p ≤ 0.001 and an improvement in skin texture after daily oral consumption of the nutricosmeceutical. We also obtained a positive patient feedback through the self-assessment questionnaires. Taken together these results show that this nutricosmeceutical supplement may have photo-protective effects and help improve skin health.

Assessment of skin pigmentation by confocal microscopy: Influence of solar exposure and protection habits on cutaneous hyperchromias

BACKGROUND

Cutaneous hyperchromias are disorders of skin pigmentation involving an increase of melanin production and its irregular accumulation in skin cells. It is known that the use of sunscreens helps to prevent changes in the skin pigmentation pattern, but the structural and morphological alterations that occur in the different types of hyperpigmentations need better elucidation.

OBJECTIVE

To assess the influence of solar exposure and protection habits on the pattern of skin pigmentation using reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM).

METHODS

Forty volunteers aged 18-39 years with skin hyperpigmentation participated in the study. Skin characterization was performed by imaging techniques and by assessing the habits of solar exposure and protection by applying questionnaires to the volunteers. RCM was used to record sequences of confocal sections at areas of interest and to examine cell shape and brightness in the basal cell layer of the lesion and in normal perilesional skin. Furthermore, high-resolution images were obtained for analysis of the spots.

RESULTS

Sunlight influences the number and location of spots as the face of volunteers with higher solar exposure was covered with spots, whereas volunteers with less exposure had fewer spots located in the nose and cheeks region due to greater exposure of these areas to the sun.

CONCLUSION

The data showed the importance of sun protection for preventing changes in the pattern of skin pigmentation, and RCM proved to be an important tool for skin characterization.

Cichorium intybus root extract: A "vitamin D-like" active ingredient to improve skin barrier function

During the aging process, the human skin suffers many alterations including dryness, skin barrier function damage. The skin barrier function is important to the prevention of skin alterations and maintenance of homeostasis. So, the objective of this study was to assess the clinical efficacy on skin barrier function of Cichorium intybus root extract in cosmetic formulations with or without UV filters. Fifty women, aged between 45 and 60 years, were divided into two groups. One group received vehicle formulations containing UV filters, and the other group received formulations without UV filters. Both groups received a formulation containing the extract and the vehicle. The formulations were applied twice daily to the upper arms after washing with sodium lauryl sulphate. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin microrelief were evaluated before and after a 14- and 28-day period of treatment. The control regions and regions where the vehicles were applied showed an increase in the TEWL. For the formulations containing the extract, decreased TEWL and improved microrelief were observed when compared to the vehicle and control areas after a 28-day period. In conclusion, Cichorium intybus root extract showed protective and restructuring effects on the skin and stands out as an innovative ingredient to improve skin barrier function.