Synergistic Promotion on Tyrosinase Inhibition by Antioxidants

Anilino-1,4-naphthoquinones as potent mushroom tyrosinase inhibitors: in vitro and in silico studies

Tyrosinase, a pivotal enzyme in melanin synthesis, is a primary target for the development of depigmenting agents. In this work, in vitro and in silico techniques were employed to identify novel tyrosinase inhibitors from a set of 12 anilino-1,4-naphthoquinone derivatives. Results from the mushroom tyrosinase activity assay indicated that, among the 12 derivatives, three compounds (1, 5, and 10) demonstrated the most significant inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase, surpassing the effectiveness of the kojic acid. Molecular docking revealed that all studied derivatives interacted with copper ions and amino acid residues at the enzyme active site. Molecular dynamics simulations provided insights into the stability of enzyme-inhibitor complexes, in which compounds 1, 5, and particularly 10 displayed greater stability, atomic contacts, and structural compactness than kojic acid. Drug likeness prediction further strengthens the potential of anilino-1,4-naphthoquinones as promising candidates for the development of novel tyrosinase inhibitors for the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders.

Platycodon grandiflorum saponins: Ionic liquid-ultrasound-assisted extraction, antioxidant, whitening, and antiaging activity

This study explored the use of ionic liquid-ultrasound (ILU)-assisted extraction to enhance the extraction rate of Platycodon grandiflorum saponins (PGSs), and the content, extraction mechanism, antioxidant activity, whitening, and antiaging activity of PGSs prepared using ILU, ultrasound-water, thermal reflux-ethanol, and cellulase hydrolysis were compared. The ILU method particularly disrupted the cell wall, improved PGS extraction efficiency, and yielded a high total saponin content of 1.45 ± 0.02 mg/g. Five monomeric saponins were identified, with platycodin D being the most abundant at 1.357 mg/g. PGSs displayed excellent in vitro antioxidant activity and exhibited inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, elastase, and hyaluronidase. The results suggest that PGSs may have broad antioxidant, skin-whitening, and antiaging potential to a large extent. Overall, this study provided valuable insights into the extraction, identification, and bioactivities of PGSs, which could serve as a reference for future development and application of these compounds in the functional foods industry.

Toxic Features and Metabolomic Intervention of Glabrene, an Impurity Found in the Pharmaceutical Product of Glabridin

Glabridin is a widely used product in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industry, which is generally isolated and purified from Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) extract in industrial production. It has wide clinical applications, but significant toxicity has also been reported. The purity of glabridin raw material is generally between 90% and 98%. We have identified a toxic impurity, glabrene, in the industrial product glabridin. Our investigation using an AB wild-type zebrafish toxicity test showed that glabrene has a significant lethal effect with an LC10 of 2.8 μM. Glabrene induced obvious malformation and disrupted cartilage development in zebrafish larvae. Furthermore, the compound significantly reduced larval mobility and caused damage to brain neural tissues. Metabolic pathway analysis and neurotransmitter quantification via ELISA indicated abnormal activation of the phenylalanine metabolic pathway, resulting in elevated dopamine and acetylcholine levels in vivo. These findings provide insights into the potential risks of glabrene contamination and offer a new reference point for enhancing safety measures and quality controls in licorice-derived products.

Preparation and stability investigation of ultrasound-assisted W/O/W multiple nanoemulsions co-loaded with hydrophobic curcumin and hydrophilic arbutin for tyrosinase inhibition

In the present, whitening products are most popular in the cosmetics market, and nanoemulsions are effective drug delivery systems through the skin. The objective of this study was to investigate multiple nanoemulsion formulations for lightning skin effects. The method of this study was the selection of active compounds based on synergistic tyrosinase inhibition activity, formulation preparation by low and high energy methods, physicochemical property determination, stability test, cell toxicity, and anti-melanogenesis in cell culture. From the results, it was found that tyrosinase inhibition with substrate l-tyrosine from the mixture of curcumin and alpha-arbutin gave the highest activity with an IC50 of 63.58 ± 4.99 μM, showed a synergistic effect at a CI value of 0.99, and selected these compounds to develop formulations by the low energy method. However, the most formulations prepared by this method were unstable and phase separated, while the high energy method gave the most formulations with good properties, which were selected for further investigation. The best formulation was 2DS which showed internal droplet morphology in the range of nanometers under a TEM microscope. For 3 months stability test, the formulations had no phase separation and gave the slightly changed values of particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), zeta potentials, and pH values. In addition, multiple nanoemulsions also enhanced the stability of active compounds, with the highest percentage of remaining content of curcumin and arbutin at 94.69 and 90.45 %, respectively at 4 °C for 3 months. In a cell culture test on B16F10, 2DS at 0.05 g/ml gave no cell cytotoxicity and anti-melanogenesis at 57.75 ± 5.74 %, the same potency as kojic acid at a concentration of 20 μg/ml. Therefore, this study will be useful to prepare multiple nanoemulsions for further development into novel health care products.

Valuation of the significant hypoglycemic activity of black currant anthocyanin extract by both starch structure transformation and glycosidase activity inhibition

The objective of this study was to investigate the impact of anthocyanin-rich black currant extract (BCE) on the structural properties of starch and the inhibition of glycosidases, gathering data and research evidence to support the use of low glycemic index (GI) foods. The BCE induced a change in the starch crystal structure from A-type to V-type, resulting in a drop in digestibility from 81.41 % to 65.57 %. Furthermore, the inhibitory effects of BCE on glycosidases activity (α-glucosidase: IC50 = 0.13 ± 0.05 mg/mL and α-amylase: IC50 = 2.67 ± 0.16 mg/mL) by inducing a change in spatial conformation were confirmed through in vitro analysis. The presence of a 5'-OH group facilitated the interaction between anthocyanins and receptors of amylose, α-amylase, and α-glucosidase. The glycosyl moiety enhanced the affinity for amylose yet lowered the inhibitory effect on α-amylase. The in vivo analysis demonstrated that BCE resulted in a reduction of 3.96 mM·h in blood glucose levels (Area Under Curve). The significant hypoglycemic activity, particularly the decrease in postprandial blood glucose levels, highlights the potential of utilizing BCE in functional foods for preventing diabetes.

Comparative Analysis of Efficacy of Lactic Acid 30% with Ferulic Peel 12% (Combination Peel) Versus TCA 10% with Ferulic Peel 12% (Combination Peel) for Photoageing Skin

OBJECTIVES

Chemical peels are used to treat photoageing, pigmentation, improve complexion and dull skin, fine lines and scars. The objective of this study is to do comparative analysis of Lactic Acid 30% with Ferulic peel 12% (combination peel) versus TCA 10% with Ferulic peel 12% (combination peel) for Photoageing Skin.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

This is a retrospective study from September 2021 to 2022 with total 50 female patients aged between 25 and 40 years were treated. Randomisation of patients was done (simple randomisation using lottery method) for both groups with 25 patients enrolled in each group. The first group (Group A-25 patients) were treated with lactic acid 30% with Ferulic peel 12% (combination peel). The second group (Group B-25 patients) were treated with TCA 10% with Ferulic peel 12% (combination peel). Inclusion and exclusion criteria have been defined for the study. Two scales have been used for assessing the results: Allergan Skin Roughness Scale (ASRS) and Allergan Fine Line Scale (AFLS). ASRS and AFLS scores were assessed at pre-treatment (pre) and post treatment (post-1 month after last peel session). Data were summarised in Mean ± SD (standard deviation). Pre and post groups were compared by paired t test. The pre to post change in outcome measures between two independent groups were compared by independent Student's t test. Discrete (categorical) groups were compared by Chi-square (χ2) test. A two-tailed (α=2) P < 0.05 was considered statistically significant. Analyses were performed on SPSS software (Windows version 22.0). Patients were followed up for 6 months post treatment.

RESULTS

In Group A, comparing the pre and post ASRS score, paired t test showed significant (P < 0.001) decrease or improvement of 56.1%. In Group B, comparing the pre and post ASRS score, paired t test showed significant (P < 0.001) decrease or improvement of 52.8%. Comparing the pre to post mean decrease or improvement in ASRS score of two groups, Student's t test showed similar (P > 0.05) improvement between the two groups though it was 2.5% higher in Group B as compared to Group A. In Group A, comparing the pre and post AFLS score, paired t test showed significant (P < 0.001) decrease or improvement of 63.2% at post as compared to pre. In Group B, comparing the pre and post AFLS score, paired t test showed significant (P < 0.001) decrease or improvement of 58.8% at post as compared to pre. Further, comparing the pre to post mean decrease or improvement in AFLS score of two groups, Student's t test showed similar (P > 0.05) improvement between the two groups though it was 16.7% higher in Group A as compared to Group B.

CONCLUSION

Study found both the treatments equally effective in the management of ageing skin after 6 months of treatment. However, study needs further validation on larger sample size, varied age groups and male gender.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE V

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Inhibitory Effects of Fermented Sprouted Oat Extracts on Oxidative Stress and Melanin Overproduction

Hyperpigmentation occurs due to irregular secretion of melanin pigment in the skin. This can affect quality of life depending on its severity, so prevention and management are essential. Oats (Avena sativa L.), a grain consumed worldwide, are known to offer improved health benefits upon germination and fermentation. This study is aimed to investigate the protective effects of lactobacilli-fermented sprouted oat extracts on oxidative stress and melanin overproduction in vitro. The anti-melanogenic effect was investigated using melanin content and tyrosinase activity assays in B16F10 cells, as well as a mushroom tyrosinase-based enzyme inhibition assay. The results showed that L. casei-fermented oat extracts were the most effective for reducing melanin formation by reducing the mRNA expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related protein 2. Furthermore, L. casei fermentation was effective in improving the total phenolic, flavonoid, and avenanthramide A contents of sprouted oat extracts. The results also demonstrated the antioxidant effects of L. casei-fermented sprouted oat extracts in promoting DPPH radical-scavenging activity, superoxide dismutase-like activity, and reduction in reactive oxygen species levels. Overall, the findings indicate that fermented sprouted oat extracts are promising candidates for antioxidant and anti-hyperpigmentation treatments.

Synergistic impact of arbutin and kaempferol-7-O-α-L-rhamnopyranoside from Nephelium lappaceum L. on whitening efficacy and stability of cosmetic formulations

Four flavonoid glycosides, namely quercetin-3-O-rhamnoside (1), kaempferol-3-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl (2), kaempferol-7-O-α-L-rhamnopyranoside (3), and kaempferol-3-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-7-O-α-L-rhamnopyranoside (4), from Nephelium lappaceum L. seeds were evaluated for their efficacy against melanin inhibition in B16F10 melanoma cells and tyrosinase inhibition. Among them, kaempferol-7-O-α-L-rhamnopyranoside (3) displayed the highest potency in both activities without any significant cytotoxicity. The combination of compound 3 and arbutin in specific proportions demonstrated a synergistic effect (CI < 1) in inhibiting melanin production in B16F10 cells and tyrosinase inhibition. Additionally, a cosmetic formulation containing compound 3 and arbutin as active ingredients exhibited favorable stability under accelerated storage conditions. Quantitative analysis indicated that compound 3 and arbutin levels in the formulation were above 90% after one month of storage. Determination of the formulation's shelf life using the Q10 method, estimating it to be around 5.2 months from the date of manufacture. The synergy between arbutin and kaempferol-7-O-α-L-rhamnopyranoside (3) extracted from N. lappaceum substantially enhances both the whitening effectiveness and the stability of cosmetic formulations.

Synthesis, in silico modelling, and in vitro biological evaluation of substituted pyrazole derivatives as potential anti-skin cancer, anti-tyrosinase, and antioxidant agents

Twenty-five azole compounds (P1-P25) were synthesised using regioselective base-metal catalysed and microwave-assisted approaches, fully characterised by high-resolution mass spectrometry (HRMS), nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), and infrared spectra (IR) analyses, and evaluated for anticancer, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-oxidant activities in silico and in vitro. P25 exhibited potent anticancer activity against cells of four skin cancer (SC) lines, with selectivity for melanoma (A375, SK-Mel-28) or non-melanoma (A431, SCC-12) SC cells over non-cancerous HaCaT-keratinocytes. Clonogenic, scratch-wound, and immunoblotting assay data were consistent with anti-proliferative results, expression profiling therewith implicating intrinsic and extrinsic apoptosis activation. In a mushroom tyrosinase inhibition assay, P14 was most potent among the compounds (half-maximal inhibitory concentration where 50% of cells are dead, IC50 15.9 μM), with activity greater than arbutin and kojic acid. Also, P6 exhibited noteworthy free radical-scavenging activity. Furthermore, in silico docking and absorption, distribution, metabolism, excretion, and toxicity (ADMET) simulations predicted prominent-phenotypic actives to engage diverse cancer/hyperpigmentation-related targets with relatively high affinities. Altogether, promising early-stage hits were identified - some with multiple activities - warranting further hit-to-lead optimisation chemistry with further biological evaluations, towards identifying new skin-cancer and skin-pigmentation renormalising agents.

Fabrication of polyvinyl pyrrolidone-K90/Eudragit RL100-based dissolving microneedle patches loaded with alpha-arbutin and resveratrol for skin depigmentation

Alpha-arbutin (AA) and resveratrol (Res) are widely used in skin-lightening products. However, current topical formulations have minimal skin-lightening effects due to the low absorption and poor solubility of these active compounds. This study investigated the efficacy and safety of using dissolving microneedle (DMN) patches to improve the delivery of AA and Res for skin depigmentation. The DMN patches (F0-F3) fabricated from polyvinyl pyrrolidone-K90 (PVP-K90)/Eudragit RL100 blends successfully penetrated excised porcine skin and showed sufficient mechanical strength to resist compression forces. Loading DMNs with 10% AA and 2% Res at a ratio of 5 : 1 (F3) resulted in a synergistic interaction between the drugs with desirable dissolving ability, drug loading, and stability. Furthermore, both in vitro and in vivo studies revealed that the use of F3 DMN patches successfully enhanced the intradermal delivery of AA and Res over a 24 h period, with the delivered amount being higher (∼2.6 times) than that provided by a cream formulation (P < 0.05). After removing the DMN patches, the mice's skin was spontaneously and completely resealed within 12 h. In clinical studies, F3 DMN patches slightly decreased the melanin index of the participants without causing skin irritation or erythema at any time during the 24 h period when the patches were applied (P < 0.05). Moreover, application of the patches for 24 h was not found to affect skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, or skin elasticity. Therefore, AA/Res-loaded DMN patches could offer a promising approach for the effective local delivery of cosmetic agents for skin depigmentation.

Melanogenesis Inhibitory Activity, Chemical Components and Molecular Docking Studies of Prunus cerasoides Buch.-Ham. D. Don. Flowers

Safe depigmenting agents are currently increasing in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical industry because various compounds have been found to have undesirable side effects. Therefore, the present study aimed to investigate the melanogenesis inhibitory effects of Prunus cerasoides Buch. -Ham. D. Don. flower extracts and their molecular mechanism in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. Moreover, we also examined phenolic and flavonoid contents, antioxidant activity, chemical constituents of potential extracts, and molecular docking. The highest phenolic and flavonoid contents with the greatest scavenging activity were found in the butanol extract of the P. cerasoides flower compared to other extracts. From all extracts, only crude, diethyl ether, and butanol extracts showed an inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity, cellular tyrosinase activity, and melanin content as well as the downregulation of the gene expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2) in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. Based on the molecular docking study, n-hexadecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, 9,12-octadecadienoic acid, 9,12,15-octadecanoic acid, and eicosanoic acid might show an inhibitory effect against tyrosinase and MITF. In conclusion, this finding demonstrates that both the diethyl ether and butanol extracts of the P. cerasoides flower can effectively reduce tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis through the downregulation of the melanogenic gene expression in B16F10 cells and through the molecular docking study. Taken together, the diethyl ether and butanol extracts of the P. cerasoides flower could be an anti-melanogenic ingredient for hyperpigmentary or melasma treatment.

The Effect of Cosmetic Ingredients of Phenol Type on Immediate Pigment Darkening and Their (Photo)Protective Action in Association with Melanin Pigmentation: A Model In Vitro Study

Immediate pigment darkening, the first response of skin to solar exposure leading to undesired irregular pigmentation and dark spots, is the rapid onset of melanin pigmentation resulting from oxidation of the melanogenic indoles, namely 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) available in epidermal melanocytes. The search for effective sunscreen formulations is nowadays focused on UVA/B filters and additional ingredients that may scavenge the reactive oxygen species generated in these processes. In this work the effects of phenolic cosmetic ingredients (CIs), paradol-6, a ginger CO2 extract, and phenylethyl resorcinol on photosensitized DHI and DHICA oxidation were investigated showing a decrease of their consumption and melanin formation (25–30% decrease with phenylethyl resorcinol). The photoprotective role of CIs was also evaluated in model systems. Paradol-6 and ginger CO2 extract can halve linoleic acid peroxidation in the riboflavin-sensitized reaction, while dienes generation reduction (30% of control) was observed in the Rose-Bengal-sensitized photooxidation with paradol-6. The presence of DHI/DHICA melanin exerted a synergistic effect. The decay of thymine free or as a DNA base was almost completely inhibited by CIs. These results open new perspectives in the design of skin care formulations for ameliorating skin spots and contrasting ageing processes associated with sun exposure.

Extracts from European Propolises as Potent Tyrosinase Inhibitors

Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in the melanogenesis pathway. Melanin, the product of this process, is the main pigment of the human skin and a major protection factor against harmful ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Increased melanin synthesis due to tyrosinase hyperactivity can cause hyperpigmentation disorders, which in consequence causes freckles, age spots, melasma, or postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Tyrosinase overproduction and hyperactivity are triggered by the ageing processes and skin inflammation as a result of oxidative stress. Therefore, the control of tyrosinase activity is the main goal of the prevention and treatment of pigmentation disorders. Natural products, especially propolis, according to their phytochemical profile abundant in polyphenols, is a very rich resource of new potential tyrosinase inhibitors. Therefore, this study focused on the assessment of the tyrosinase inhibitory potential of six extracts obtained from the European propolis samples of various origins. The results showed the potent inhibitory activity of all tested propolis extracts towards commercially available mushroom tyrosinase. The four most active propolis extracts showed inhibitory activity in the range of 86.66-93.25%. Apart from the evaluation of the tyrosinase inhibition, the performed research included UHPLC-DAD-MS/MS (ultra high performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detection and tandem mass spectrometry) phytochemical profiling as well as antioxidant activity assessment using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and the 2,2"-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfuric acid (ABTS) radical scavenging tests. Moreover, statistical analysis was used to correlate the tyrosinase inhibitory and antioxidant activities of propolis extracts with their phytochemical composition. To summarise, the results of our research showed that tested propolis extracts could be used for skin cosmeceutical and medical applications.

Phytochemical Composition and Biological Activities of Arctium minus (Hill) Bernh.: A Potential Candidate as Antioxidant, Enzyme Inhibitor, and Cytotoxic Agent

Arctium minus (Hill) Bernh. (Asteraceae), which has a wide distribution area in Turkey, is a medicinally important plant. Eighty percent methanol extracts of the leaf, flower head, and root parts of A. minus were prepared and their sub-fractions were obtained. Spectrophotometric and chromatographic (high-performance liquid chromatography) techniques were used to assess the phytochemical composition. The extracts were evaluated for antioxidant activity by diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazil radical (DPPH^●), 2,2′-Azino-bis 3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS^●+) radical scavenging, and β-carotene linoleic acid bleaching assays. Furthermore, the extracts were subjected to α-amylase, α-glucosidase, lipoxygenase, and tyrosinase enzyme inhibition tests. The cytotoxic effects of extracts were investigated on MCF-7 and MDA-MB-231 breast cancer cell lines. The richest extract in terms of phenolic compounds was identified as the ethyl acetate sub-fraction of the root extract (364.37 ± 7.18 mg_GAE/g_extact). Furthermore, chlorogenic acid (8.855 ± 0.175%) and rutin (8.359 ± 0.125%) were identified as the primary components in the leaves’ ethyl acetate sub-fraction. According to all methods, it was observed that the extracts with the highest antioxidant activity were the flower and leaf ethyl acetate fractions. Additionally, ABTS radical scavenging activity of roots’ ethyl acetate sub-fraction (2.51 ± 0.09 mmol/L Trolox) was observed to be as effective as that of flower and leaf ethyl acetate fractions at 0.5 mg/mL. In the β-carotene linoleic acid bleaching assay, leaves’ methanol extract showed the highest antioxidant capacity (1422.47 ± 76.85) at 30 min. The enzyme activity data showed that α-glucosidase enzyme inhibition of leaf dichloromethane extract was moderately high, with an 87.12 ± 8.06% inhibition value. Lipoxygenase enzyme inhibition was weakly detected in all sub-fractions. Leaf methanol extract, leaf butanol, and root ethyl acetate sub-fractions showed 99% tyrosinase enzyme inhibition. Finally, it was discovered that dichloromethane extracts of leaves, roots, and flowers had high cytotoxic effects on the MDA-MB-231 cell line, with IC50 values of 21.39 ± 2.43, 13.41 ± 2.37, and 10.80 ± 1.26 µg/mL, respectively. The evaluation of the plant extracts in terms of several bioactivity tests revealed extremely positive outcomes. The data of this study, in which all parts of the plant were investigated in detail for the first time, offer promising results for future research.

Spleen-Targeted Glabridin-Loaded Nanoparticles Regulate Polarization of Monocyte/Macrophage (Mo /Mφ ) for the Treatment of Cerebral Ischemia-Reperfusion Injury

During cerebral ischemia-reperfusion (I-R) injury, the infiltration of monocyte/macrophages (Mo /Mφ ) into the ischemic penumbra causes inflammatory damage but also regulates tissue repair in the penumbra. The regulation and balance of Mo /Mφ polarization is considered as a potential therapeutic target for treating cerebral I-R injury. Herein, these findings demonstrate that glabridin (Gla)-loaded nanoparticles (i.e., NPGla -5k) can effectively inhibit M1-polarization and enhance M2-polarization of Mo /Mφ . Positron emission tomography (PET) imaging shows that NPGla -5k can selectively accumulate in the spleen following intravenous injection. Spleen-targeted Cy5-NPGla -5k can co-localize with peripheral macrophages in the penumbra at 24 h after tail-vein injection. Interestingly, NPGla -5k treatment can reduce inflammatory damage, protect dying neurons, and improve nervous system function. The protective effect of spleen-targeted NPGla -5k against cerebral I-R injury in mice encourages an exploration of their use for clinical treatment of patients with cerebral I-R injury.

Mechanisms of ultraviolet-induced melasma formation: A review

Melasma, a pigmentation disorder, commonly occurs in exposed skin areas and can be attributed to several factors. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is the primary factor that induces and aggravates melasma. Considering gene expression, exposed skin areas experience abnormal gene expression, involving melanin metabolism, oxidative stress, impaired skin barrier function, and abnormal composition of nerve factors. From a histological perspective, UVR can cause basement membrane collapse, melanocyte sinking, and disorders of skin lipid metabolism. Emerging therapies have focused on these pathological alterations in melasma, including platelet-rich plasma, mesotherapy, and phytochemicals. Understanding the role of UVR in the development of melasma can facilitate early prevention and highlight the future direction of melasma treatment.

SOX9 in Keratinocytes Regulates Claudin 2 Transcription during Skin Aging

In order to prove that SOX9 in keratinocytes regulates claudin 2 transcription during skin aging, the skin of 8-week-old and 24-month-old mice is sequenced to obtain a differentially expressed gene SOX9. The gene is mainly expressed in keratinocytes, and it increases first and then decreases from newborn to aging. Six core sequences of SOX9 and claudin 2 are predicted from Jaspar. The double Luciferase Report shows that overexpression of SOX9 induces the full-length promoter of claudin 2 significantly and has no effect on the mutation and cleavage plasmid without SOX9 response. Claudin 2 is consistent with SOX9 in the skin of mice of different ages, and SOX9 is strongly positively correlated with claudin 2. Finally, overexpression of SOX9 and claudin 2 will delay PM2.5-induced keratinocyte senescence. The silencing of claudin 2 leads to the loss of SOX9 function. It is clearly evident that SOX9 can affect the transcription of claudin 2, which increases first and then decreases in the process of mice from newborn to aging. SOX9 inhibits proinflammatory mediators, increases antioxidant capacity, and restores keratin differentiation. It can effectively prevent melanin deposition and delay aging.

Role of Phytochemicals in Skin Photoprotection via Regulation of Nrf2

Ethnopharmacological studies have become increasingly valuable in the development of botanical products and their bioactive phytochemicals as novel and effective preventive and therapeutic strategies for various diseases including skin photoaging and photodamage-related skin problems including abnormal pigmentation and inflammation. Exploring the roles of phytochemicals in mitigating ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced skin damage is thus of importance to offer insights into medicinal and ethnopharmacological potential for development of novel and effective photoprotective agents. UVR plays a role in the skin premature aging (or photoaging) or impaired skin integrity and function through triggering various biological responses of skin cells including apoptosis, oxidative stress, DNA damage and inflammation. In addition, melanin produced by epidermal melanocytes play a protective role against UVR-induced skin damage and therefore hyperpigmentation mediated by UV irradiation could reflect a sign of defensive response of the skin to stress. However, alteration in melanin synthesis may be implicated in skin damage, particularly in individuals with fair skin. Oxidative stress induced by UVR contributes to the process of skin aging and inflammation through the activation of related signaling pathways such as the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein-1 (AP-1), the phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K)/protein kinase B (Akt), the nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) and the signal transducer and activator of transcription (STAT) in epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. ROS formation induced by UVR also plays a role in regulation of melanogenesis in melanocytes via modulating MAPK, PI3K/Akt and the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R)-microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) signaling cascades. Additionally, nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)-regulated antioxidant defenses can affect the major signaling pathways involved in regulation of photoaging, inflammation associated with skin barrier dysfunction and melanogenesis. This review thus highlights the roles of phytochemicals potentially acting as Nrf2 inducers in improving photoaging, inflammation and hyperpigmentation via regulation of cellular homeostasis involved in skin integrity and function. Taken together, understanding the role of phytochemicals targeting Nrf2 in photoprotection could provide an insight into potential development of natural products as a promising strategy to delay skin photoaging and improve skin conditions.

Glabrol impurity exacerbates glabridin toxicity in zebrafish embryos by increasing myofibril disorganization

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Glabridin, extracted from Glycyrrhiza glabra L., is widely used for the treatment of hyperpigmentation because of its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities and its ability to inhibit melanin synthesis. This led to the strict regulation of its quality and safety. However, traditional quality control methods used for plant extracts cannot reflect the product quality owing to multiple unknown impurities, which necessitates the further analysis of impurities.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The study identified the toxic impurities of glabridin and their toxicological mechanism.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

In total, 10 glabridin samples from different sources were quantified using high-performance liquid chromatography. Sample toxicities were evaluated using zebrafish and cell models. To identify impurities, samples with different toxicity were analyzed by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with quadrupole-Orbitrap mass spectrometry. The toxicity of related impurities was verified in the zebrafish model. Phalloidin stain was used to evaluate subtle changes in myofibril alignment.

RESULTS

Although glabridin content in the samples was similar, there were significant differences in toxicity. The results were verified using four different mammalian cell lines. Higher contents of glabrone and glabrol were identified in the sample with the highest toxicity. In the zebrafish model, the addition of glabrol reduced the LC₅₀ of glabridin to 9.224, 6.229, and 5.370 μM at 48, 72, and 96 h post-fertilization, respectively, whereas glabrone did not have any toxic effect. Phalloidin staining indicated that a glabrol impurity exacerbates the myotoxicity of glabridin in zebrafish embryos.

CONCLUSION

Glabrol, but not glabrone, was identified as a key impurity that increased glabridin toxicity. This finding indicates that controlling glabrol content is necessary during glabridin product production.

Insights on the Inhibitory Power of Flavonoids on Tyrosinase Activity: A Survey from 2016 to 2021

Tyrosinase is a multifunctional copper-containing oxidase enzyme that initiates melanin synthesis in humans. Excessive accumulation of melanin pigments or the overexpression of tyrosinase may result in skin-related disorders such as aging spots, wrinkles, melasma, freckles, lentigo, ephelides, nevus, browning and melanoma. Nature expresses itself through the plants as a source of phytochemicals with diverse biological properties. Among these bioactive compounds, flavonoids represent a huge natural class with different categories such as flavones, flavonols, isoflavones, flavan-3-ols, flavanones and chalcones that display antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitor activities with a diversity of mechanistic approaches. In this review, we explore the role of novel or known flavonoids isolated from different plant species and their participation as tyrosinase inhibitors reported in the last five years from 2016 to 2021. We also discuss the mechanistic approaches through the different studies carried out on these compounds, including in vitro, in vivo and in silico computational research. Information was obtained from Google Scholar, PubMed, and Science Direct. We hope that the updated comprehensive data presented in this review will help researchers to develop new safe, efficacious, and effective drug or skin care products for the prevention of and/or protection against skin-aging disorders.

Synergistic effects and antityrosinase mechanism of four plant polyphenols from Morus and Hulless Barley

Sanggenone C, oxyresveratrol, catechin and l-epicatechin exist in Morus and Hulless Barley as natural polyphenols with antityrosinase activity. Little research on their synergistic and structure-function relationships of them has been reported in recent years. In this paper, the inhibition mechanisms of these four plant polyphenols were investigated by enzyme kinetics, HPLC, fluorescence spectra, and molecular docking methods. The results showed that oxyresveratrol (IC₅₀ = 1.096 ± 0.048 μg/mL), sanggenone C (IC₅₀ = 13.360 ± 1.029 μg/mL), l-epicatechin (IC₅₀ = 55.730 ± 1.762 μg/mL), and catechin (IC₅₀ = 148.500 ± 3.355 μg/mL) exhibited tyrosinase inhibition activity. When sangenone C (14 μg/mL) was mixed with l-epicatechin (56 μg/mL) at 4:1 (40 μL + 10 μL), the highest tyrosinase inhibition was achieved. Molecular docking showed that the number and position of phenolic hydroxyls of polyphenols were the key for tyrosinase inhibition activity. This study provided new ideas for the application of these four plant polyphenols from Hulless Barley and Morus as tyrosinase inhibitors in food preservation.

The Phenolic Compounds Profile and Cosmeceutical Significance of Two Kazakh Species of Onions: Alliumgalanthum and A. turkestanicum

Numerous species of Allium genus have been used in the traditional medicine based on their vast biological effects, e.g., antimicrobial, digestion stimulant, anti-sclerotic, soothing, antiradical or wound healing properties. In this work, unpolar and polar extracts from two lesser-investigated species of Allium growing in Kazakhstan, Alliumgalanthum Kar. & Kir. (AG) and A. turkestanicum Regel. (AT), were studied for their composition and biological effects. In the HPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS analyses of water and alcoholic extracts simple organic acids, flavonoids and their glycosides were found to be the best represented group of secondary metabolites. On the other hand, in the GC-MS analysis diethyl ether, extracts were found to be rich sources of straight-chain hydrocarbons and their alcohols, fatty acids and sterols. The antimicrobial activity assessment showed a lower activity of polar extracts, however, the diethyl ether extract from AT bulbs and AG chives showed the strongest activity against Bacillus subtilis ATCC 6633, B. cereus ATCC 10876, some species of Staphylococcus (S. aureus ATCC 25923 and S. epidermidis ATCC 12228) and all tested Candida species (Candida albicans ATCC 2091, Candida albicans ATCC 10231, Candida glabrata ATCC 90030, Candida krusei ATCC 14243 and Candida parapsilosis ATCC 22019) with a minimum inhibitory concentration of 0.125–0.5 mg/mL. The highest antiradical capacity exhibited diethyl ether extracts from AG bulbs (IC50 = 19274.78 ± 92.11 mg Trolox eq/g of dried extract) in DPPH assay. In ABTS scavenging assay, the highest value of mg Trolox equivalents, 50.85 ± 2.90 was calculated for diethyl ether extract from AT bulbs. The same extract showed the highest inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase (82.65 ± 1.28% of enzyme activity), whereas AG bulb ether extract was the most efficient murine tyrosinase inhibitor (54% of the enzyme activity). The performed tests confirm possible cosmeceutical applications of these plants.

Tyrosinase Enzymes Activities and Sun Protection Factor of Ethanol Extract, Water Fraction, and n-Butanol Fraction of Chromolaena odorata L. Leaves

Background: The need for skincare is increasing. One of the indicators of skin health is the brightness of the skin tone. Tyrosinase enzymes can darken the skin color due to their activity against melanin biosynthesis. The skin color will also change when exposed to UV rays, and even at a more severe level, it can cause cancer. Aims: The purpose of this study was to determine the inhibitory activity of the tyrosinase enzyme and the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) value of ethanol extract, water fraction, and n-butanol fraction from Chromolaena odorata L. leaves. Methods: In this study, tests were carried out on ethanol extract, water fraction, and an n-butanol fraction of C. odorata leaves to inhibit tyrosinase enzyme activity based on percent inhibition and determination of inhibitory activity against UV light based on the SPF value. Determination of tyrosinase enzyme inhibitory activity using an ELISA reader was carried out by calculating the IC50 value with kojic acid as a positive control and measuring the SPF value using UV-Vis spectrophotometry. Result: The results showed that the IC50 value of the tyrosinase enzyme inhibitory activity test, kojic acid as a positive control was 24.85 µg/mL (very strong), ethanol extract samples, water fraction, and n-butanol fraction were 191 µg/mL (weak), 65.86 µg/mL (very strong), and 14.59 µg/mL (very strong), respectively. The SPF value, including minimal protection shown by the ethanol extract at a concentration of 60 µg/mL, the water fraction at a 120 µg/mL concentration, and the n-butanol fraction a concentration of 40 µg/mL. Conclusion: The ethanol extract, water fraction, and n-butanol fraction of the Chromolaena odorata L. had an inhibitory effect on the tyrosinase enzyme and sun protection capacity used as an ingredient in cosmetic preparations

Oxyresveratrol: Sources, Productions, Biological Activities, Pharmacokinetics, and Delivery Systems

Oxyresveratrol has recently attracted much research attention due to its simple chemical structure and diverse therapeutic potentials. Previous reviews describe the chemistry and biological activities of this phytoalexin, but additional coverage and greater accessibility are still needed. The current review provides a more comprehensive summary, covering research from 1955 to the present year. Oxyresveratrol occurs in both gymnosperms and angiosperms. However, it has never been reported in plants in the subclass Sympetalae, and this point might be of both chemotaxonomic and biosynthetic importance. Oxyresveratrol can be easily obtained from plant materials by conventional methods, and several systems for both qualitative and quantitative analysis of oxyresveratrol contents in plant materials and plant products are available. Oxyresveratrol possesses diverse biological and pharmacological activities such as the inhibition of tyrosinase and melanogenesis, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, and protective effects against neurological disorders and digestive ailments. However, the unfavorable pharmacokinetic properties of oxyresveratrol, including low water solubility and poor oral availability and stability, have posed challenges to its development as a useful therapeutic agent. Recently, several delivery systems have emerged, with promising outcomes that may improve chances for the clinical study of oxyresveratrol.

Chemical Composition and Biological Properties of Two Jatropha Species: Different Parts and Different Extraction Methods

Jatropha L. species, in particular, J. curcas and J. gossypiifolia, are well known medicinal plants used for treating various diseases. In the present study, leaf and stem bark extracts of J. curcas and J. gossypiifolia obtained by maceration or homogenizer assisted extraction, were investigated for their phytochemical contents and biological potential as antioxidants, enzyme inhibitors and neuromodulators. In this regard, the gene expression of tumor necrosis factor α (TNFα) and brain-derived neurotrophic factor (BDNF) was investigated in hypothalamic HypoE22 cells. Finally, a bioinformatics analysis was carried out with the aim to unravel the putative mechanisms consistent with both metabolomic fingerprints and pharmacological effects. The leaf extracts of J. curcas showed higher total phenolic content (TPC) and total flavonoid content (TFC) than the stem bark extracts (range: 5.79–48.95 mg GAE/g and 1.64–13.99 mg RE/g, respectively), while J. gossypiifolia possessed TPC and TFC in the range of 42.62–62.83 mg GAE/g and 6.97–17.63 mg RE/g, respectively. HPLC-MS/MS analysis revealed that the leaf extracts of both species obtained by homogenizer assisted extraction are richer in phytochemical compounds compared to the stem bark extracts obtained by the same extraction method. In vitro antioxidant potentials were also demonstrated in different assays (DPPH: 6.89–193.93 mg TE/g, ABTS: 20.20–255.39 mg TE/g, CUPRAC: 21.07–333.30 mg TE/g, FRAP: 14.02–168.93 mg TE/g, metal chelating activity: 3.21–17.51 mg EDTAE/g and phosphomolybdenum assay: 1.76–3.55 mmol TE/g). In particular, the leaf extract of J. curcas and the stem bark extract of J. gossypiifolia, both obtained by homogenizer assisted extraction, showed the most potent antioxidant capacity in terms of free radical scavenging and reducing activity, which could be related to their higher TPC and TFC. Furthermore, anti-neurodegenerative (acetylcholinesterase inhibition: 1.12–2.36 mg GALAE/g; butyrylcholinetserase inhibition: 0.50–3.68 mg GALAE/g), anti-hyperpigmentation (tyrosinase inhibition: 38.14–57.59 mg KAE/g) and antidiabetic (amylase inhibition: 0.28–0.62 mmol ACAE/g; glucosidase inhibition: 0.65–0.81 mmol ACAE/g) properties were displayed differentially by the different extracts. Additionally, the extracts were effective in reducing the gene expression of both TNFα and BDNF, which could be partially mediated by phenolic compounds such as naringenin, apigenin and quercetin. Indeed, the scientific data obtained from the present study complement the several other reports highlighting the pharmacological potentials of these two species, thus supporting their uses as therapeutically active plants.

Rosa platyacantha Schrenk from Kazakhstan-Natural Source of Bioactive Compounds with Cosmetic Significance

Plants belonging to the Rosa genus are known for their high content of bioactive molecules and broad spectrum of healing and cosmetic activities. Rosa platyacantha Schrenk is a wild-type species abundant in the mountainous regions of Kazakhstan. The phytochemical composition as well as the bioactivity of R. platyacantha extracts have not been fully investigated to date. In this study, various parts of R. platyacantha plant, collected in Almaty region, Kazakhstan, were used to prepare five hydroalcoholic extracts (R1–R5). The extracts were compared for the content of phytochemicals and selected biological activities, which are important for the potential cosmetic application of R. platyacantha. Extract R3, prepared from flower buds, showed the most significant antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory potential, decreasing the monophenolase and diphenolase activities of tyrosinase. Extract R3 showed also collagenase inhibitory activity and cytotoxicity against human melanoma cells A375, being less cytotoxic for noncancerous skin keratinocytes HaCaT. Analysis of fractions E and F, obtained from R3 extracts, revealed that quercetin, kaempferol, rutin, and their derivatives are more likely responsible for the tyrosinase inhibitory properties of R. platyacantha extracts.

Pharmacological Potential and Chemical Characterization of Bridelia ferruginea Benth.-A Native Tropical African Medicinal Plant

To avail the possible pharmacological actions of Brideliaferruginea Benth., the present investigation was designed to quantitatively analyze the total flavonoid and phenolic contents and assess the various antioxidant and enzyme inhibition properties of leaf and stem bark extracts (ethyl acetate, water and methanolic) of B. ferruginea. Anti-proliferative effect was also investigated against human colon cancer cells (HCT116) as well as the antimicrobial potential against multiple bacterial and fungal (yeasts and dermatophytes) strains. The methanolic and water extracts of the stem bark demonstrated the highest phenolic content (193.58 ± 0.98 and 187.84 ± 1.88 mg/g, respectively), while the leaf extracts showed comparatively higher flavonoid contents (24.37-42.31 mg/g). Overall, the methanolic extracts were found to possess the most significant antioxidant potency. Compared to the other extracts, methanolic extracts of the B. ferruginea were revealed to be most potent inhibitors of acetyl- and butyryl-cholinesterases, tyrosinase α-amylase, except α-glucosidase. Only the ethyl acetate extracts were found to inhibit glucosidase. Additionally, the stem bark methanolic extract also showed potent inhibitory activity against E. coli and gram-positive bacteria (MIC (minimum inhibitory concentration): 2.48-62.99 µg/mL), as well as all the tested fungi (MIC: 4.96-62.99 µg/mL). In conclusion, B. ferruginea can be regarded as a promising source of bioactive compounds displaying multifunctional pharmacological activities and thus is a potential candidate for further investigations in the endeavor to develop botanical formulations for pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries.

Professional-Grade TCA-Lactic Acid Chemical Peel: Elucidating Mode of Action to Treat Photoaging and Hyperpigmentation

Chemical peeling is usually performed by dermatologists, plastic surgeons, and aestheticians for the treatment of photo-aged skin, dyspigmented skin, skin prone to acne eruption, and pre-cancerous skin lesions, etc. In this research paper, we report our investigative findings to understand the mode of action of a commercial professional chemical peel to treat hyperpigmented and photoaged skin. In the in-vitro experiments, we found that the peel inhibits enzymes that are responsible for degradation of collagen and elastin, and the production of melanin pigment. It was surprising to observe that trichloroacetic acid (TCA), which is considered a workhorse of chemical peels for its cauterant action, could synergistically promote the inhibitory action of lactic acid. The rationale behind this synergistic effect could be the conformational change in TCA from linear structure to ring-like structure, which was elucidated through sequential docking using Rosetta software. The in-vitro results on collagen and elastin were corroborated by up-regulation of COL1A, COL3B, fibronectin, and elastin gene expression from 3D human skin equivalents treated with the peel. The findings were further validated through ex-vivo testing on human skin biopsy. The peel significantly inhibits the production of total melanin, and ameliorates photo-damage that was evident through repair of the collagen in the skin exposed to a biological effective dose of UV daily light (6 J/cm²). These research findings have implications for product developers and users (dermatologists, plastic surgeons, and aestheticians) in improving safety and efficacy of chemical peels/peeling.

Identification of Mushroom and Murine Tyrosinase Inhibitors from Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Extract

Growing scientific evidence indicates that Achillea biebersteinii is a valuable source of active ingredients with potential cosmetic applications. However, the data on its composition and pharmacological properties are still insufficient. This study aims to optimize the extraction procedure of the plant material, evaluate its phytochemical composition, and compare anti-tyrosinase potential of A. biebersteinii extracts obtained by various methods. In order to identify compounds responsible for the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of A. biebersteinii, the most active anti-tyrosinase extract was fractionated by column chromatography. The fractions were examined for their skin lightening potential by mushroom and murine tyrosinase inhibitory assays and melanin release assay. HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS/MS analysis of the total extract revealed the presence of several phenolic acids, flavonoids, flavonoid glucosides, and carboxylic acid. Among them, fraxetin-8-O-glucoside, quercetin-O-glucopyranose, schaftoside/isoschaftoside, gmelinin B, 1,3-dicaffeoylquinic acid (1,3-DCQA), and ferulic acid were found in the fractions with the highest skin lightening potential. Based on obtained qualitative and quantitative analysis of the fractions, it was assumed that the caffeoylquinic acid derivatives and dicaffeoylquinic acid derivatives are more likely responsible for mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity of A. biebersteinii extracts and fractions. Ferulic acid was proposed as the most active murine tyrosinase inhibitor, responsible also for the reduced melanin release from B16F10 murine melanoma cells.

Polyphenol Profile and Biological Activity Comparisons of Different Parts of Astragalus macrocephalus subsp. finitimus from Turkey

The members of the genus Astragalus have great interest as traditional drugs in several folk systems including Turkey. In this sense, the present paper was aimed to explore the biological properties and chemical profiles of different parts (aerial parts, leaves, flowers, stems, and roots) of A. macrocephalus subsp. finitimus. Antioxidant (radical quenching, reducing power, and metal chelating) and enzyme inhibitory (α-amylase and tyrosinase) effects were investigated for biological properties. Regarding chemical profiles, individual phenolic compounds were detected by LC-MS, as well as total amounts. The leaves extract exhibited the strongest antioxidant abilities when compared with other parts. However, flowers extract had the best metal chelating ability. Hyperoside, apigenin, p-coumaric, and ferulic acids were identified as main compounds in the tested parts. Regarding enzyme inhibitory properties, tyrosinase inhibitory effects varied from IC₅₀: 1.02 to 1.41 mg/mL. In addition, the best amylase inhibition effect was observed by leaves (3.36 mg/mL), followed by aerial parts, roots, stems, and flowers. As a result, from multivariate analysis, the tested parts were classified in three cluster. Summing up the results, it can be concluded that A. macrocephalus subsp. finitimus could be a precious source of natural bioactive agents in pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, and cosmeceutical applications.

Melanin Bleaching and Melanogenesis Inhibition Effects of Pediococcus acidilactici PMC48 Isolated from Korean Perilla Leaf Kimchi

Overproduction and accumulation of melanin in the skin will darken the skin and cause skin disorders. So far, components that can inhibit tyrosinase, a melanin synthase of melanocytes, have been developed and used as ingredients of cosmetics or pharmaceutical products. However, most of existing substances can only inhibit the biosynthesis of melanin while melanin that is already synthesized and deposited is not directly decomposed. Thus, their effects in decreasing melanin concentration in the skin are weak. To overcome the limitation of existing therapeutic agents, we started to develop a substance that could directly biodegrade melanin. We screened traditional fermented food microorganisms for their abilities to direct biodegrade melanin. As a result, we found that a kimchi-derived Pediococcus acidilactici PMC48 had a direct melanin-degrading effect. This PMC48 strain is a new strain, different from P. acidilactici strains reported so far. It not only directly degrades melanin, but also has tyrosinase-inhibiting effect. It has a direct melanindecomposition effect. It exceeds existing melanin synthesis-inhibiting technology. It is expected to be of high value as a raw material for melanin degradation drugs and cosmetics.

Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts-Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use

Studies on hydroglycolic (HG) extracts of Achillea biebersteinii (AB)—a less investigated representative of the genus—were performed to determine their potential for cosmetic applications compared to the well-known Achillea millefolium (AM). Three types of water:polyethylene glycol extracts (1:1, 4:1, 6:1 v/v) were obtained from both species and analyzed for their composition by high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS) and assayed for their biological activities. The study led to the identification of 11 metabolites from different natural product classes with the highest share corresponding to 5-caffeoylquinic acid, axillarin, coumaroylquinic acid isomers and 3-caffeoylquinic acid. The highest antiradical capacity in DPPH and ABTS scavenging assays was shown for HG 4:1 of AB and AM extracts. HG 1:1 extracts from both species inhibited monophenolase and diphenolase activity of tyrosinase, whereas AB HG 4:1 extract showed significant monophenolase inhibition. The highest sun protection factor (SPF) was determined for AM HG 4:1 extract, equal to 14.04 ± 0.17. The AB extracts were cytotoxic for both human keratinocytes HaCaT and A375 melanoma, however HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts were more cytotoxic for cancer than for noncancerous cells. In conclusion, AB HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts display significant potential as active cosmetic ingredients.

Novel tyrosinase inhibitory peptide with free radical scavenging ability

Tyrosinase is a key enzyme involved in melanin synthesis. Therefore, various tyrosinase inhibitors have been screened by researchers in recent years. In the present study, we discovered a novel tyrosinase inhibitor, a peptide ECGYF (named EF-5), with free radical scavenging ability. The effect of tyrosinase inhibition by EF-5 was stronger than that of arbutin and glutathione, when analyzed both in vitro (IC50: 0.46 mM) and in vivo. The UV-Vis absorption and circular dichroism spectroscopies indicated that EF-5 interacted with tyrosinase in a different way as that of glutathione. The results of molecular docking showed that the binding between EF-5 and tyrosinase was determined majorly by hydrogen bonds and hydrophobic interactions. EF-5 had also retained its ability to scavenge both hydroxyl and superoxide radicals in vitro and was found to be nontoxic to cells, as revealed by the MTT assay. These features suggested that the EF-5 peptide may serve as a safe and effective alternative as a tyrosinase inhibitor.

A comprehensive review on tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinase is a multi-copper enzyme which is widely distributed in different organisms and plays an important role in the melanogenesis and enzymatic browning. Therefore, its inhibitors can be attractive in cosmetics and medicinal industries as depigmentation agents and also in food and agriculture industries as antibrowning compounds. For this purpose, many natural, semi-synthetic and synthetic inhibitors have been developed by different screening methods to date. This review has focused on the tyrosinase inhibitors discovered from all sources and biochemically characterised in the last four decades.

Natural and Bioinspired Phenolic Compounds as Tyrosinase Inhibitors for the Treatment of Skin Hyperpigmentation: Recent Advances

One of the most common approaches for control of skin pigmentation involves the inhibition of tyrosinase, a copper-containing enzyme which catalyzes the key steps of melanogenesis. This review focuses on the tyrosinase inhibition properties of a series of natural and synthetic, bioinspired phenolic compounds that have appeared in the literature in the last five years. Both mushroom and human tyrosinase inhibitors have been considered. Among the first class, flavonoids, in particular chalcones, occupy a prominent role as natural inhibitors, followed by hydroxystilbenes (mainly resveratrol derivatives). A series of more complex phenolic compounds from a variety of sources, first of all belonging to the Moraceae family, have also been described as potent tyrosinase inhibitors. As to the synthetic compounds, hydroxycinnamic acids and chalcones again appear as the most exploited scaffolds. Several inhibition mechanisms have been reported for the described inhibitors, pointing to copper chelating and/or hydrophobic moieties as key structural requirements to achieve good inhibition properties. Emerging trends in the search for novel skin depigmenting agents, including the development of assays that could distinguish between inhibitors and potentially toxic substrates of the enzyme as well as of formulations aimed at improving the bioavailability and hence the effectiveness of well-known inhibitors, have also been addressed.

Human Skin Lightening Efficacy of Resveratrol and Its Analogs: From in Vitro Studies to Cosmetic Applications

Antioxidants are deemed useful in controlling oxidative stress associated with extrinsic skin aging and pigmentation disorders. Resveratrol is a polyphenol compound found in many edible plants such as Vitis vinifera, and its inhibitory effects on the catalytic activity, gene expression, and posttranslational modifications of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the melanin biosynthetic pathway, provide a mechanistic basis for its antimelanogenic effects seen in melanocytic cells, three-dimensionally reconstituted skin models, and in vivo animal models. As a potent antioxidant and a modulator of nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), and sirtuin 1, resveratrol can also regulate multiple signaling pathways associated with inflammation and premature aging. Recent clinical studies have supported the efficacy of resveratrol and its analogs, such as resveratryl triacetate (RTA) and resveratryl triglycolate (RTG), in human skin lightening and antiaging. These findings suggest that resveratrol and its analogs are potentially useful as skin lightening and antiaging agents in cosmetics.