Nutraceuticals for Skin Care: A Comprehensive Review of Human Clinical Studies

Gut-derived wild blueberry phenolic acid metabolites modulate extrinsic cutaneous damage

As the first line of defense, the skin is equipped with various physiological mechanisms positioned to prevent incoming oxidative damage from numerous environmental insults. With persistent exposure to the environment, understanding ways to augment the skin defenses is paramount in protecting from premature aging. In this study, we investigated the ability of five dietary phenolic metabolites, typically found in the bloodstream after wild blueberry consumption, to successfully defend the skin from UV light exposure in a novel ex vivo co-culture model of human skin explants and primary endothelial cells. Skin explants, placed in transwell inserts, were exposed to UV, and subsequently co-cultured with endothelial cells. When the endothelial cells had been pretreated with the bioactive metabolites at physiological concentrations (hippuric acid 3000 nM, isoferulic acid 1000 nM, salicylic acid 130 nM, benzoic acid 900 nM, α-hydroxyhippuric acid 400 nM) cutaneous damage was prevented on the co-cultured with UV-challenged skin explants. Co-culture with non-pretreated endothelial cells did not protect skin explants. Specifically, the pretreatment was able to reduce skin lipid peroxidation (measured as 4-hydroxynonenal protein adducts), and pro-inflammatory enzymes such as cyclooxygenase 2 (COX-2) and NADPH oxidase 4 (NOX-4). Furthermore, pretreatment with the metabolites prevented UV-induced release of inflammatory cytokines such as IL-1β and IL-8 as well as nitric oxides (NO) levels. In addition, the metabolites showed an impressive ability to prevent the loss of cutaneous structural proteins including involucrin and collagen type 1. Of note, endothelial cells cultured with UV exposed skin explants exhibited increased oxidative stress demonstrated by heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) up-regulation which was significantly prevented in the metabolite treated models. These findings highlight the ability of dietary polyphenolic metabolites to improve cutaneous defenses against extrinsic stressors.

Liquid collagen from freshwater fish skin ameliorates hydration, roughness and elasticity in photo-aged skin: a randomized, controlled, clinical study

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES

Collagen is commonly used in diverse forms as a functional component in skincare products. On the other hand, the effects of collagen on human skin are controversial. Dietary collagen hydrolysates from freshwater Pangasius hypophthalmus fish skin ameliorated photo-aged skin of hairless mice. This study conducted a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial to determine if liquid fish collagen (Collagen-Tripep20™, Tripep20) as a drink strengthens skin health and quality.

SUBJECTS/METHODS

In this clinical trial, 85 subjects aged 35-60 yrs were diagnosed with photo-aged skin. Eighty-five subjects were randomized to receive either Tripep20 (n = 44) or placebo (n = 41). Seventy-eight subjects fully participating for a 12-week period consumed 1,000 mg of Tripep20 (n = 41) or placebo (n = 37) in a 50-mL bottle as a daily drink. The intend-to-treat and per-protocol populations were 85 and 78, respectively. Skin hydration, wrinkles, and elasticity were assessed at 0 (baseline), 6, and 12 weeks during the study period.

RESULTS

Skin hydration in the Tripep20 group was significantly higher from 6 weeks (P < 0.001) than the baseline. After 12 weeks, the Crow's-feet visual score and skin roughness (Ra, Rq, and Rmax) were significantly improved in the Tripep20 group than in the placebo group (P < 0.05). Consuming liquid collagen Tripep20 greatly enhanced skin elasticity (Gross R2, Net R5, and Biological elasticity R7) in 6 weeks compared to the placebo group. The Tripep20 group showed a significant increase in skin elasticity from the baseline after 6 and 12 weeks (P < 0.001). Neither abnormal symptoms nor adverse events were encountered during the study period in subjects ingesting Tripep20 or placebo. The changes in parameters related to hematology and clinical chemistry were within the normal ranges.

CONCLUSION

Oral consumption of liquid collagen Tripep20 was safe and well-tolerated. The results of this study show that freshwater fish-derived liquid collagen Tripep20 can be used as a healthy functional food ingredient to improve skin moisturizing, anti-wrinkling, and elasticity in an aging population.

Annurca Apple Oleolite as Functional Ingredient for the Formulation of Cosmetics with Skin-Antiaging Activity

The identification of natural remedies for the management of the skin aging process is an increasingly growing issue. In this context, ursolic acid (UA), a ubiquitous molecule, mainly contained in Annurca apple (AA) fruit, has demonstrated valuable cosmetic potential. To this end, in the current study, the AA oleolite (AAO, extract in sunflower oil containing 784.40 ± 7.579 µg/mL of UA) was evaluated to inhibit porcine elastase enzymatic reactions through a validated spectrophotometric method. AAO has shown a valuable capacity to contrast the elastase enzyme with a calculated IC50 of 212.76 mg/mL, in comparison to UA (IC50 of 135.24 μg/mL) pure molecules and quercetin (IC50 of 72.47 μg/mL) which are used as positive controls. In this context and in view of the valuable antioxidant potential of AAO, its topical formulation with 2.5% (w/w) AAO was tested in a placebo-controlled, double-blind, two-arm clinical study on 40 volunteers. Our results indicated that after 28 days of treatment, a significant reduction of the nasolabial fold (-7.2 vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001) and forehead wrinkles (-5.3 vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001) were registered in combination with a valuable improvement of the viscoelastic skin parameters, where skin pliability/firmness (R0) and gross elasticity (R2) were significantly ameliorated (-13% vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001 for R0 and +12% vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001 for R2). Finally, considering the positive correlation between skin elasticity and hydration, the skin moisture was evaluated through the estimation of Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin conductance.

The effect of oral supplements containing collagen peptides rich in X-Hyp or X-Hyp-Gly compared with normal collagen hydrolysates on skin elasticity and collagen holes: a randomised double-blind clinical study

Collagen peptides enriched with X-Hyp or X-Hyp-Gly have demonstrated resistance to digestive and systemic enzymes, suggesting their potential for improved absorption efficiency and enhancement of skin properties. This study aimed to evaluate the effects of oral supplementation with collagen peptides rich in X-Hyp or X-Hyp-Gly on skin properties in a clinical setting. A double-blind, randomized study was conducted on 30 healthy adult participants aged between 22 and 30. Normal collagen hydrolysates were used as the control, and each participant received a daily powdered drink containing either 5 grams of collagen peptides or hydrolysates (n = 15 in each group) for a period of 42 days. Skin elasticity was evaluated using the Cutometer, revealing a significant increase in the intervention group's skin elasticity (R2 values: 0.86 to 0.92, P < 0.001; R7 values: 0.77 to 0.84, P < 0.001). Collagen synthesis in the dermis was assessed using the SIAscope, demonstrating a substantial increase of 30.67 in the intervention group, while the control group exhibited a marginal increase of 0.49. In vitro digestion and cellular transport models were employed to evaluate the absorption and transport of Hyp-containing collagen peptides. LC-MS analysis demonstrated a significantly higher proportion of small peptide oligomers below 500 Da in the CP product compared to the control group (approximately 70% vs. 50%) after digestion. Additionally, the CP product exhibited a greater uptake of peptides (27%) compared to the control group (21%). These findings highlight the potential use of Hyp-containing collagen peptides with a low molecular weight in food supplements for improving skin health.

Novel CRYGC Mutation in Conserved Ultraviolet-Protective Tryptophan (p.Trp131Arg) Is Linked to Autosomal Dominant Congenital Cataract

Congenital cataract (CC), the most prevalent cause of childhood blindness and amblyopia, necessitates prompt and precise genetic diagnosis. The objective of this study is to identify the underlying genetic cause in a Swiss patient with isolated CC. Whole exome sequencing (WES) and copy number variation (CNV) analysis were conducted for variant identification in a patient born with a total binocular CC without a family history of CC. Sanger Sequencing was used to confirm the variant and segregation analysis was used to screen the non-affected parents. The first de novo missense mutation at c.391T>C was identified in exon 3 of CRYGC on chromosome 2 causing the substitution of a highly conserved Tryptophan to an Arginine located at p.Trp131Arg. Previous studies exhibit significant changes in the tertiary structure of the crystallin family in the following variant locus, making CRYGC prone to aggregation aggravated by photodamage resulting in cataract. The variant can be classified as pathogenic according to the American College of Medical Genetics and Genomics (ACMG) criteria (PP3 + PM1 + PM2 + PS2; scoring 10 points). The identification of this novel variant expands the existing knowledge on the range of variants found in the CRYGC gene and contributes to a better comprehension of cataract heterogeneity.

Exploring Plants with Flowers: From Therapeutic Nutritional Benefits to Innovative Sustainable Uses

Flowers have played a significant role in society, focusing on their aesthetic value rather than their food potential. This study's goal was to look into flowering plants for everything from health benefits to other possible applications. This review presents detailed information on 119 species of flowers with agri-food and health relevance. Data were collected on their family, species, common name, commonly used plant part, bioremediation applications, main chemical compounds, medicinal and gastronomic uses, and concentration of bioactive compounds such as carotenoids and phenolic compounds. In this respect, 87% of the floral species studied contain some toxic compounds, sometimes making them inedible, but specific molecules from these species have been used in medicine. Seventy-six percent can be consumed in low doses by infusion. In addition, 97% of the species studied are reported to have medicinal uses (32% immune system), and 63% could be used in the bioremediation of contaminated environments. Significantly, more than 50% of the species were only analysed for total concentrations of carotenoids and phenolic compounds, indicating a significant gap in identifying specific molecules of these bioactive compounds. These potential sources of bioactive compounds could transform the health and nutraceutical industries, offering innovative approaches to combat oxidative stress and promote optimal well-being.

Aesthetician Role in Facial Plastic Surgery and Systemic Therapy for Healthy Skin

Non-surgical services are an important part of many facial plastic surgery practices and can improve patient satisfaction as well as bring new patients to the practice. An aesthetician can help to prepare patients for surgery and non-surgical procedures as well as optimize skin care during the recovery period. The scope of practice of aestheticians varies widely between states. Facial plastic surgeons who are delegating procedures to an aesthetician need to be familiar and comply with the state regulations and be up to date on ongoing changes. The connection between nutrition, skin, aging, and recovery from surgical procedures is a current topic of interest. Multiple studies suggest that nutraceuticals can provide clinically significant benefits for skin, wound healing, and hair.

Heat-Killed Lactobacillus rhamnosus ATCC 7469 Improved UVB-Induced Photoaging Via Antiwrinkle and Antimelanogenesis Impacts

Exposure of ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation is the main factor from the environment to cause skin photoaging. Lactobacillus rhamnosus ATCC 7469, is a probiotic strain with a good track record for enhancing human health. The present study conducted the impacts of heat-killed L. rhamnosus ATCC 7469 (RL) on photoaging in vitro using mouse skin fibroblast (MSF) cells and human epidermal melanocytes (HEM) exposed to UVB. The results showed that (1) RL-protected UVB-induced cytotoxicity relating to absorb UVB and reduce DNA damage. (2) RL exerted the antiwrinkle impact involved in two aspects. Firstly, RL downregulated MMP-1, 2, 3 expressions associating with MAPK signaling, resulting in the increased the protein expression of COL1A1, further booting type I collagen abundant thereby promoting the antiwrinkle impact in MSF cells. Secondly, RL reduced ROS content, further decreasing oxidative damage relating to Nrf2/Sirt3/SOD2 signaling, thereby promoting the antiwrinkle impact in MSF cells. (3) RL suppressed tyrosinase and TYRP-2 activity and/or levels associating with PKA/CREB/MITF signaling, thereby promoting antimelanogenesis impact in HEM cells. In conclusion, our findings suggest that RL could reduce photoaging caused by UVB via antiwrinkle and antimelanogenesis properties and may be a potential antiphotoaging beneficial component, which is applied in the cosmetic industry.

Lacticaseibacillus paracasei K71 Alleviates UVB-Induced Skin Barrier Dysfunction by Attenuating Inflammation via Increased IL-10 Production in Mice

SCOPE

Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation causes skin barrier dysfunction, leading to decreased water-holding capacity, impaired epidermal barrier function, and increased skin thickness. This study investigates the protective effects of oral administration of Lacticaseibacillus paracasei K71 against skin barrier dysfunction in UVB-irradiated mice.

METHODS AND RESULTS

Mice are fed diets with or without K71 and irradiated with UVB three times a week for 12 weeks. Oral administration of K71 suppresses UVB-induced decrease in stratum corneum water content, mitigates the increase of transepidermal water loss, and decreases epidermal thickness of the dorsal skin. Treatment with K71 reverses the upregulation of inflammatory cytokines and the activation of nuclear factor-κB induced by UVB irradiation and upregulates the expression of anti-inflammatory IL-10 in the dorsal skin. Notable upregulation of IL-10 is observed in the spleens of K71-treated mice. K71 treatment enhances IL-10 production in J774.1 macrophages; however, this enhancement is diminished by inhibiting K71 phagocytosis and TLR3. Furthermore, transfection using K71 RNAs significantly increases IL-10 production.

CONCLUSION

These results indicate that K71 may alleviate UVB-induced skin barrier dysfunction by attenuating inflammation via increasing IL-10 production and that K71 RNAs may induce IL-10 production in macrophages. Therefore, K71 may be beneficial for preventing skin barrier dysfunction.

Sacha inchi albumin delays skin-aging by alleviating inflammation, oxidative stress and regulating gut microbiota in d-galactose induced-aging mice

BACKGROUND

Sacha inchi albumin exhibits considerable functional activity with notable anti-inflammatory and antioxidation properties, which could delay skin aging. However, its underlying mechanisms for delaying skin aging have not been elucidated. The aim of the present study was to investigate the anti-skin-aging effect of sacha inchi albumin (SIA) in d-galactose induced-aging mice.

RESULTS

Sacha inchi albumin improved moisture content, collagen level, and the state of aged skin in rats. Sacha inchi albumin intervention markedly increased the skin antioxidant enzymatic activities including those of glutathione peroxidase, and catalase, but decreased the malondialdehyde content. It also regulated inflammation by reducing the level of tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) and increasing the level of interleukin-6 (IL-6). Administration of SIA also increased the expression level of collagen I and III, increased the expression of tissue inhibitor of metalloprotease-1, and decreased the expression of metalloproteinases. Sacha inchi albumin can also activate the transforming growth factor-β (TGF-β)/Smad pathway. Meanwhile, 16S rRNA sequencing analysis revealed that SIA treatment altered the composition of microbiota, and increased the relative abundance of Lactobacillus, but decreased the relative abundance of Alloprevotella and Helicobacter, etc. Helicobacter was positively associated with malondialdehyde (MDA) content and was negatively related to IL-6.

CONCLUSION

Sacha inchi albumin exhibits excellent anti-skin-aging effect, which provide a new insight for the development of functional sacha inchi albumin. © 2023 Society of Chemical Industry.

Choline chloride-based deep eutectic solvent as an inhibitor of metalloproteases (collagenase and elastase) in cosmetic formulation

Green chemistry and engineering are potential alternatives for achieving higher sustainability and lower generation of hazardous compounds in chemical product design, production, and use. Deep Eutectic Solvents (DES) are characterized as green solvents and have become increasingly attractive due to their characteristic design solvents. In this work, two DES (choline chloride (ChCl)/glycerol and ChCl/Urea), aqueous solutions of the DES-forming components, and green tea extracts obtained with DES were used as anti-ageing active in cosmetic products using in vitro tests to inhibit extracellular matrix metalloproteases (such as collagenase and elastase). Finally, the stability of the formulations with DES as a cosmetic active was also evaluated. The results showed that DES based on ChCl/Urea and ChCl/glycerol exhibited remarkable inhibition values of collagenase (91.1 and 92.7%, respectively) and elastase (49.8 and 45.7%, respectively). However, pure urea displayed better inhibition values (66%) for elastase, possibly due to its direct contribution to intramolecular hydrogen bonds. ChCl/glycerol showed remarkable stability in the average cube diameter values, which may indicate no change in the conformation of the micellar structure of the cosmetic formulation. Moreover, the formulation containing this DES remained stable at room temperature. Given the remarkable results, DES can be applied in cosmetic products for anti-ageing purposes.

The PI3K-Akt-mTOR and Associated Signaling Pathways as Molecular Drivers of Immune-Mediated Inflammatory Skin Diseases: Update on Therapeutic Strategy Using Natural and Synthetic Compounds

The dysregulated phosphatidylinositol-3-kinase (PI3K)-Akt-mammalian target of rapamycin (mTOR) signaling pathway has been implicated in various immune-mediated inflammatory and hyperproliferative dermatoses such as acne, atopic dermatitis, alopecia, psoriasis, wounds, and vitiligo, and is associated with poor treatment outcomes. Improved comprehension of the consequences of the dysregulated PI3K/Akt/mTOR pathway in patients with inflammatory dermatoses has resulted in the development of novel therapeutic approaches. Nonetheless, more studies are necessary to validate the regulatory role of this pathway and to create more effective preventive and treatment methods for a wide range of inflammatory skin diseases. Several studies have revealed that certain natural products and synthetic compounds can obstruct the expression/activity of PI3K/Akt/mTOR, underscoring their potential in managing common and persistent skin inflammatory disorders. This review summarizes recent advances in understanding the role of the activated PI3K/Akt/mTOR pathway and associated components in immune-mediated inflammatory dermatoses and discusses the potential of bioactive natural products, synthetic scaffolds, and biologic agents in their prevention and treatment. However, further research is necessary to validate the regulatory role of this pathway and develop more effective therapies for inflammatory skin disorders.

The Prophylactic Effect of Vitamin C and Vitamin B12 against Ultraviolet-C-Induced Hepatotoxicity in Male Rats

Ultraviolet C (UVC) devices are an effective means of disinfecting surfaces and protecting medical tools against various microbes, including coronavirus. Overexposure to UVC can induce oxidative stress, damage the genetic material, and harm biological systems. This study investigated the prophylactic efficacy of vitamin C and B12 against hepatotoxicity in UVC-intoxicated rats. Rats were irradiated with UVC (725.76, 967.68, and 1048.36 J/cm²) for 2 weeks. The rats were pretreated with the aforementioned antioxidants for two months before UVC irradiation. The prophylactic effect of vitamins against UVC hepatotoxicity was evaluated by monitoring the alteration of liver enzyme activities, antioxidant status, apoptotic and inflammatory markers, DNA fragmentation, and histological and ultrastructural alterations. Rats exposed to UVC showed a significant increase in liver enzymes, oxidant-antioxidant balance disruption, and increased hepatic inflammatory markers (TNF-α, IL-1β, iNOS, and IDO-1). Additionally, obvious over-expression of activated caspase-3 protein and DNA fragmentation were detected. Histological and ultrastructural examinations verified the biochemical findings. Co-treatment with vitamins ameliorated the deviated parameters to variable degrees. In conclusion, vitamin C could alleviate UVC-induced hepatotoxicity more than vitamin B12 by diminishing oxidative stress, inflammation, and DNA damage. This study could provide a reference for the clinical practice of vitamin C and B12 as radioprotective for workers in UVC disinfectant areas.

Microneedle-assisted transdermal delivery of nanoparticles: Recent insights and prospects

Transdermal delivery of drugs offers an interesting alternative for the administration of molecules that present certain troubles when delivered by the oral route. It can produce systemic effects or perform a local action when the formulation exerts an optimal controlled drug release or a targeted delivery to the specific cell type or site. It also avoids several inconveniences of the oral administration such as the hepatic first pass effect, gastric pH-induced hydrolysis, drug malabsorption because of certain diseases or surgeries, and unpleasant organoleptic properties. Nanomedicine and microneedle array patches (MAPs) are two of the trendiest delivery systems applied to transdermal research nowadays. However, the skin is a protective barrier and nanoparticles (NPs) cannot pass through the intact stratum corneum. The association of NPs and MAPs (NPs@MAPs) work synergistically, since MAPs assist NPs to bypass the outer skin layers, and NPs contribute to the system providing controlled drug release and targeted delivery. Vaccination and tailored therapies have been proposed as fields where both NPs and MAPs have great potential due to inherent characteristics. MAPs conception and easy use could allow self-administration and therefore facilitate mass vaccination campaigns in undeveloped areas with weak healthcare services. Additionally, nanomedicine is being explored as a platform to personalize therapies in such an important field as oncology. In this work we show recent insights that prove the benefits of NPs@MAPs association and analyze the prospects and the discrete interest of the industry in NPs@MAPs, evaluating different limiting steps that restricts NPs@MAPs translation to the clinical practice. This article is categorized under: Nanotechnology Approaches to Biology > NA Therapeutic Approaches and Drug Discovery > NA.

Skin drug delivery using lipid vesicles: A starting guideline for their development

Lipid vesicles can provide a cost-effective enhancement of skin drug absorption when vesicle production process is optimised. It is an important challenge to design the ideal vesicle, since their properties and features are related, as changes in one affect the others. Here, we review the main components, preparation and characterization methods commonly used, and the key properties that lead to highly efficient vesicles for transdermal drug delivery purposes. We stand by size, deformability degree and drug loading, as the most important vesicle features that determine the further transdermal drug absorption. The interest in this technology is increasing, as demonstrated by the exponential growth of publications on the topic. Although long-term preservation and scalability issues have limited the commercialization of lipid vesicle products, freeze-drying and modern escalation methods overcome these difficulties, thus predicting a higher use of these technologies in the market and clinical practice.

A Novel Hyaluronic Acid Matrix Ingredient with Regenerative, Anti-Aging and Antioxidant Capacity

Hyaluronic acid (HA) and proteoglycans (such as dermatan sulphate (DS) and chondroitin sulphate (CS)) are the main components of the extracellular matrix of the skin, along with collagen and elastin. These components decrease with age, which implies a loss of skin moisture causing wrinkles, sagging and aging. Currently, the external and internal administration of effective ingredients that can reach the epidermis and dermis is the main alternative for combating skin aging. The objective of this work was to extract, characterise and evaluate the potential of an HA matrix ingredient to support anti-aging. The HA matrix was isolated and purified from rooster comb and characterised physicochemically and molecularly. In addition, its regenerative, anti-aging and antioxidant potential and intestinal absorption were evaluated. The results show that the HA matrix is composed of 67% HA, with an average molecular weight of 1.3 MDa; 12% sulphated glycosaminoglycans, including DS and CS; 17% protein, including collagen (10.4%); and water. The in vitro evaluation of the HA matrix's biological activity showed regenerative properties in both fibroblasts and keratinocytes, as well as moisturising, anti-aging and antioxidant effects. Furthermore, the results suggest that the HA matrix could be absorbed in the intestine, implying a potential oral as well as topical use for skin care, either as an ingredient in a nutraceutical or a cosmetic product.

Therapeutic and cosmeceutical role of glycosylated natural products in dermatology

Natural products (NPs) remain the primary source of pharmacologically active candidates for drug discovery. Since time immemorial, NPs have attracted considerable attention because of their beneficial skin effects. Moreover, there has been a great interest in using such products for the cosmetics industry in the past few decades, bridging the gap between modern and traditional medicine. Terpenoids, Steroids, and Flavonoids having glycosidic attachment have proven biological effects with a positive impact on human health. NPs derived glycosides are mainly found in fruits, vegetables, and plants, and most of them have a special reverence in traditional and modern medicine for disease prevention and treatment. A literature review was performed using scientific journals, Google scholar, Scifinder, PubMED, and Google patents. These scientific articles, documents, and patents establish the significance of glycosidic NPs in the areas of dermatology. Considering the human inclination to the usage of NPs rather than synthetic or inorganic drugs (especially in the area of skin care), in the present review we have discussed the worth of NP glycosides in beauty care and skin-related therapeutics and the mechanistic pathways involved.

Biotechnological Approaches to Producing Natural Antioxidants: Anti-Ageing and Skin Longevity Prospects

Plants are the main source of bioactive compounds that can be used for the formulation of cosmetic products. Plant extracts have numerous proven health benefits, among which are anti-ageing and skin-care properties. However, with the increased demand for plant-derived cosmetic products, there is a crucial prerequisite for establishing alternative approaches to conventional methods to ensure sufficient biomass for sustainable production. Plant tissue culture techniques, such as in vitro root cultures, micropropagation, or callogenesis, offer the possibility to produce considerable amounts of bioactive compounds independent of external factors that may influence their production. This production can also be significantly increased with the implementation of other biotechnological approaches such as elicitation, metabolic engineering, precursor and/or nutrient feeding, immobilization, and permeabilization. This work aimed to evaluate the potential of biotechnological tools for producing bioactive compounds, with a focus on bioactive compounds with anti-ageing properties, which can be used for the development of green-label cosmeceutical products. In addition, some examples demonstrating the use of plant tissue culture techniques to produce high-value bioactive ingredients for cosmeceutical applications are also addressed, showing the importance of these tools and approaches for the sustainable production of plant-derived cosmetic products.

The Role of Selected Flavonoids from Bajakah Tampala (Spatholobus littoralis Hassk.) Stem on Cosmetic Properties: A Review

Cosmetics made from natural ingredients are increasingly popular because they contain bioactive compounds which can provide many health benefits, more environmentally friendly and sustainable. The health benefits obtained from natural-based ingredients include anti-aging, photoprotective, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory. This article reviewed the potential of selected flavonoids from bajakah tampala (Spatholobus littoralis Hassk.) as the native plant in Indonesia. We present in silico, in vitro, in vivo, and clinical research data on the use of selected flavonoids that have been reported in other extracts.

Benefits of Circulating Human Metabolites from Fish Cartilage Hydrolysate on Primary Human Dermal Fibroblasts, an Ex Vivo Clinical Investigation for Skin Health Applications

Due to its significant exposure to stressful environmental factors, the skin undergoes a high remodeling rate over time, which alters not only its appearance but also its functionality. This alteration of the skin, namely photoaging, is characterized by dryness and a loss of elasticity that mainly originates from the dysregulation of dermal fibroblast activities. In order to overcome such tissue outcome, cosmetic products have evolved toward nutricosmetics, thus promoting beauty from within. Among bio-actives of interest, bio-peptides deriving from plant or animal sources may exert various biological activities beyond their nutritional value. However, studies remain mostly descriptive and the mode of action at the cellular level in clinic remains a concern. In a recent clinical trial, it was showed that supplementation with a fish cartilage hydrolysate (FCH) improved signs of chronological and photoaging-induced skin changes in healthy women. Here, using an original ex vivo clinical approach adapted to nutricosmetic purpose, we further demonstrated that this fish cartilage hydrolysate was absorbed and that the circulating metabolites produced in humans following FCH intake stimulate human dermal fibroblast growth, promote specific hyaluronan production, up-regulate elastin synthesis and inhibit MMP-1 and 3 expression along with the enhancement of TGF-β release. Altogether, these data provide clues on the mechanisms likely contributing to the beneficial impact of FCH on human skin functionality by supporting hydration, elasticity and limiting the expression of catabolic factors involved in photoaging onset.

In Vitro Determination of the Skin Anti-Aging Potential of Four-Component Plant-Based Ingredient

The beauty industry is actively searching for solutions to prevent skin aging. Some of the crucial elements protecting cells from the aging process are telomere shortening, telomerase expression, cell senescence, and homeostasis of the redox system. Modification of these factors using natural antioxidants is an appealing way to support healthy skin aging. Therefore, in this study, we sought to investigate the antiaging efficacy of a specific combination of four botanical extracts (pomegranate, sweet orange, Cistanche and Centella asiatica) with proven antioxidant properties. To this end, normal human dermal fibroblasts were used as a cell model and the following studies were performed: cell proliferation was established by means of the MTT assay and the intracellular ROS levels in stress-induced premature senescence fibroblasts; telomere length measurement was performed under standard cell culture conditions using qPCR and under oxidative stress conditions using a variation of the Q-FISH technique; telomerase activity was examined by means of Q-TRAP; and AGE quantification was completed by means of ELISA assay in UV-irradiated fibroblasts. As a result, the botanical blend significantly reversed the H2O2-induced decrease in cell viability and reduced H2O2-induced ROS. Additionally, the presence of the botanical ingredient reduced the telomere shortening rate in both stressed and non-stressed replicating fibroblasts, and under oxidative stress conditions, the fibroblasts presented a higher median and 20th percentile telomere length, as well as a lower percentage of short telomeres (<3 Kbp) compared with untreated fibroblasts. Furthermore, the ingredient transiently increased relative telomerase activity after 24 h and prevented the accumulation of UVR-induced glycated species. The results support the potential use of this four-component plant-based ingredient as an antiaging agent.

On the Potential Role of the Antioxidant Couple Vitamin E/Selenium Taken by the Oral Route in Skin and Hair Health

The relationship between oxidative stress and skin aging/disorders is well established. Many topical and oral antioxidants (vitamins C and E, carotenoids, polyphenols) have been proposed to protect the skin against the deleterious effect induced by increased reactive oxygen species production, particularly in the context of sun exposure. In this review, we focused on the combination of vitamin E and selenium taken in supplements since both molecules act in synergy either by non-enzymatic and enzymatic pathways to eliminate skin lipids peroxides, which are strongly implicated in skin and hair disorders.

A Comprehensive Review on Nutraceuticals: Therapy Support and Formulation Challenges

Nutraceuticals are the nourishing components (hybrid of nutrition and pharmaceuticals) that are biologically active and possess capability for maintaining optimal health and benefits. These products play a significant role in human health care and its endurance, most importantly for the future therapeutic development. Nutraceuticals have received recognition due to their nutritional benefits along with therapeutic effects and safety profile. Nutraceuticals are globally growing in the field of services such as health care promotion, disease reduction, etc. Various drug nutraceutical interactions have also been elaborated with various examples in this review. Several patents on nutraceuticals in agricultural applications and in various diseases have been stated in the last section of review, which confirms the exponential growth of nutraceuticals' market value. Nutraceuticals have been used not only for nutrition but also as a support therapy for the prevention and treatment of various diseases, such as to reduce side effects of cancer chemotherapy and radiotherapy. Diverse novel nanoformulation approaches tend to overcome challenges involved in formulation development of nutraceuticals. Prior information on various interactions with drugs may help in preventing any deleterious effects of nutraceuticals products. Nanotechnology also leads to the generation of micronized dietary products and other nutraceutical supplements with improved health benefits. In this review article, the latest key findings (clinical studies) on nutraceuticals that show the therapeutic action of nutraceutical's bioactive molecules on various diseases have also been discussed.

Photoprotective effect of 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid derivatives against ultra violet (UV)-B-Induced skin aging

Excessive exposure to sun can harm the skin, causing sunburn, photo-aging, and even skin cancer. Different benzylidene derivatives (A02-A18 and A19-A34) of 18β-Glycyrrhetinic acid (A01) were designed and synthesized in an effort to discover photo-protective compounds against UV-B -induced skin aging. The synthesized derivatives were subjected to cellular viability test using MTT assay in primary Human Dermal Fibroblasts (HDFs). The results indicate A01, A05, A15, A22, A23, A25, A26, A28, A29, A32, A33, and A34 significantly enhanced cell viability of HDFs. Compound A33 at 10 and 25 μM showed a significant photo-protective effect against UV-B (10 mJ/cm²) -induced damage in HDFs. A33 at 25 μM significantly restored the UV-B -induced damage via its potent anti-oxidant, anti-apoptotic effects and ability to prevent collagen degradation. These findings pave the way for further development of A33 as a photo-protective skin agent.

Worenine Prevents Solar Ultraviolet–Induced Sunburn by Inhibiting JNK2

Excessive solar ultraviolet (SUV) radiation often causes dermatitis, photoaging, and even skin cancer. In the pathological processes of SUV-induced sunburn, JNK is activated by phosphorylation, and it in turn phosphorylates its downstream transcription factors, such as ATF2 and c-jun. The transcription factors further regulate the expression of pro-inflammatory genes, such as IL-6 and TNF-α, which ultimately leads to dermatitis. Therefore, inhibiting JNK may be a strategy to prevent dermatitis. In this study, we screened for worenine as a potential drug candidate for inhibiting sunburn. We determined that worenine inhibited the JNK-ATF2/c-jun signaling pathway and the secretion of IL-6 and TNF-α in cell culture and in vivo, confirming the role of worenine in inhibiting sunburn. Furthermore, we determined that worenine bound and inhibited JNK2 activity in vitro through the MST, kinase, and in vitro kinase assays. Therefore, worenine might be a promising drug candidate for the prevention and treatment of SUV-induced sunburn.

Eisenia bicyclis Extract Repairs UVB-Induced Skin Photoaging In Vitro and In Vivo: Photoprotective Effects

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet B (UVB) is a major cause of skin aging. The aim of the present study was to determine the photoprotective effect of a 30% ethanol extract of Eisenia bicyclis (Kjellman) Setchell (EEB) against UVB-induced skin aging. By treating human dermal fibroblasts (Hs68) with EEB after UVB irradiation, we found that EEB had a cytoprotective effect. EEB treatment significantly decreased UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) production by suppressing the activation of mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein 1 (AP-1) signaling and enhancing the protein expression of tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMPs). EEB was also found to recover the UVB-induced degradation of pro-collagen by upregulating Smad signaling. Moreover, EEB increased the mRNA expression of filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin in UVB-irradiated human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT). EEB decreased UVB-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation by upregulating glutathione peroxidase 1 (GPx1) and heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) expression via nuclear factor erythroid-2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) activation in Hs68 cells. In a UVB-induced HR-1 hairless mouse model, the oral administration of EEB mitigated photoaging lesions including wrinkle formation, skin thickness, and skin dryness by downregulating MMP-1 production and upregulating the expression of pro-collagen type I alpha 1 chain (pro-COL1A1). Collectively, our findings revealed that EEB prevents UVB-induced skin damage by regulating MMP-1 and pro-collagen type I production through MAPK/AP-1 and Smad pathways.

The Use of Calcium Phosphates in Cosmetics, State of the Art and Future Perspectives

Calcium phosphates (CaPs) belong to a class of biomimetic materials widely employed for medical applications thanks to their excellent properties, such as biodegradability, biocompatibility and osteoinductivity. The recent trend in the cosmetics field of substituting potentially hazardous materials with natural, safe, and sustainable ingredients for the health of consumers and for the environment, as well as the progress in the materials science of academics and chemical industries, has opened new perspectives in the use of CaPs in this field. While several reviews have been focused on the applications of CaP-based materials in medicine, this is the first attempt to catalogue the properties and use of CaPs in cosmetics. In this review a brief introduction on the chemical and physical characteristics of the main CaP phases is given, followed by an up-to-date report of their use in cosmetics through a large literature survey of research papers and patents. The application of CaPs as agents in oral care, skin care, hair care, and odor control has been selected and extensively discussed, highlighting the correlation between the chemical, physical and toxicological properties of the materials with their final applications. Finally, perspectives on the main challenges that should be addressed by the scientific community and cosmetics companies to widen the application of CaPs in cosmetics are given.

Oral Administration of Rosa gallica Prevents UVB-Induced Skin Aging through Targeting the c-Raf Signaling Axis

Rosa gallica is a widely used Rosa species for medicinal and culinary purposes. Rosa gallica has been reported to display antioxidant, anti−inflammatory, and antibacterial activities. However, the effect of Rosa gallica against skin aging in vivo is unknown and its active components have not been fully understood. Oral administration of Rosa gallica prevented UVB−mediated skin wrinkle formation and loss of collagen/keratin fibers in the dorsal skin of mice. Examination of biomarkers at the molecular level showed that Rosa gallica downregulates UVB−induced COX−2 and MMP−1 expression in the skin. Through a direct comparison of major compounds identified using the UHPLC−MS/MS system, we discovered gallic acid as the primary component contributing to the anti-skin aging effect exhibited by Rosa gallica. Examination of the molecular mechanism revealed that gallic acid can potently and selectively target the c−Raf/MEK/ERK/c−Fos signaling axis. In addition, both gallic acid and MEK inhibitor blocked UVB−induced MMP−1 expression and restored collagen levels in a reconstructed 3D human skin model. Collectively, Rosa gallica could be used as a functional ingredient in the development of nutraceuticals against skin aging.

Xeroderma Pigmentosum C: A Valuable Tool to Decipher the Signaling Pathways in Skin Cancers

Xeroderma pigmentosum (XP) is a rare autosomal genodermatosis that manifests clinically with pronounced sensitivity to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and the high probability of the occurrence of different skin cancer types in XP patients. XP is mainly caused by mutations in XP-genes that are involved in the nucleotide excision repair (NER) pathway that functions in the removal of bulky DNA adducts. Besides, the aggregation of DNA lesions is a life-threatening event that might be a key for developing various mutations facilitating cancer appearance. One of the key players of NER is XPC that senses helical distortions found in damaged DNA. The majority of XPC gene mutations are nonsense, and some are missense leading either to the loss of XPC protein or to the expression of a truncated nonfunctional version. Given that no cure is yet available, XPC patients should be completely protected and isolated from all types of UV radiations (UVR). Although it is still poorly understood, the characterization of the proteomic signature of an XPC mutant is essential to identify mediators that could be targeted to prevent cancer development in XPC patients. Unraveling this proteomic signature is fundamental to decipher the signaling pathways affected by the loss of XPC expression following exposure to UVB radiation. In this review, we will focus on the signaling pathways disrupted in skin cancer, pathways modulating NER's function, including XPC, to disclose signaling pathways associated with XPC loss and skin cancer occurrence.

Extracellular Vesicles: Emerging Therapeutics in Cutaneous Lesions

Extracellular vesicles (EVs), as nanoscale membranous vesicles containing DNAs, RNAs, lipids and proteins, have emerged as promising diagnostic and therapeutic agents for skin diseases. Here, we summarize the basic physiology of the skin and the biological characteristic of EVs. Further, we describe the applications of EVs in the treatment of dermatological conditions such as skin infection, inflammatory skin diseases, skin repair and rejuvenation and skin cancer. In particular, plant-derived EVs and clinical trials are discussed. In addition, challenges and perspectives related to the preclinical and clinical applications of EVs are highlighted.

Protection against UVB deleterious skin effects in a mouse model: effect of a topical emulsion containing Cordia verbenacea extract

Cordia verbenacea DC (Boraginaceae) is a flowering shrub found along the Brazilian Atlantic Forest, Brazilian coast, and low areas of the Amazon. The crude extract of its leaves is widely used in Brazilian folk medicine as an anti-inflammatory, both topically and orally. The aim of this study is to evaluate the activity of C. verbenacea ethanolic leaves extract (CVE) against UVB-triggered cutaneous inflammation and oxidative damage in hairless mice. CVE treatment recovered cutaneous antioxidant capacity demonstrated by scavenging ABTS⁺ free radical and iron-reducing antioxidant potential evaluated by FRAP. CVE also controlled the following UV-triggered events in the skin: reduced glutathione (GSH) depletion, catalase activity decrease, and superoxide anion (O^⋅-) build-up. Furthermore, mice treated with CVE exhibited less inflammation, shown by the reduction in COX-2 expression, TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6, edema, and neutrophil infiltration. CVE also regulated epidermal thickening and sunburn cells, reduced dermal mast cells, and preserved collagen integrity. The best results were obtained using 5% CVE-added emulsion. The present data demonstrate that topical administration of CVE presents photochemoprotective activity in a mouse model of UVB inflammation and oxidative stress. Because of the intricate network linking inflammation, oxidative stress, and skin cancer, these results also indicate the importance of further studies elucidating a possible role of C. verbenacea in the prevention of UVB-induced skin cancer and evaluating a potential synergy between CVE and sunscreens in topical products against UVB damaging effects to the skin.

Defining Skin Quality: Clinical Relevance, Terminology, and Assessment

BACKGROUND

Flawless skin is one of the most universally desired features, and demand for improvements in skin quality is growing rapidly. Skin quality has been shown to substantially impact emotional health, quality of life, self-perception, and interactions with others. Although skin quality improvements are a common end point in studies of cosmeceuticals, they are rarely assessed in clinical studies of other aesthetic treatments and products. Descriptive terminology for skin quality parameters also varies considerably within the aesthetic field, relying on a range of redundant and occasionally contradictory descriptors. In short, skin quality has not been clearly defined.

OBJECTIVE

The goal of this review is to highlight the importance of skin quality to patients and physicians, explore known and unknown factors comprising skin quality, and provide clarity regarding terminology, descriptors, and evaluation tools for assessing skin quality.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A review of the literature on skin quality was performed without limitation on publication date. Relevant articles are presented.

RESULTS AND CONCLUSION

We propose a framework of attributes contributing to skin quality rooted in 3 fundamental categories-visible, mechanical, and topographical-with the aim to provide information to help guide clinicians and inform future clinical studies.

The Rediscovery of Honey for Skin Repair: Recent Advances in Mechanisms for Honey-Mediated Wound Healing and Scaffolded Application Techniques

Honey is a honey-bee product obtained mainly by the enzymatic processing of nectar from a variety of plants, which leads to the wide range of colours and flavours available on the market. These organoleptic and nutritional features are influenced by the chemical composition, which in turn depends on the botanical origin. Bioactive compounds account for honey beneficial activity in medical applications, which explains the extensive use of honey in ethno-pharmacology since antiquity, from cough remedies to dermatological treatments. Wound healing is one of the main therapeutic uses of honey, and various design options in pharmaceutical technology such as smart delivery systems and advanced dressings are currently being developed to potentiate honey’s valuable properties for better performance and improved final outcome. In this review, we will focus on the latest research that discloses crucial factors in determining what properties are most beneficial when considering honey as a medicinal product. We will present the most recent updates on the possible mechanisms responsible for the exceptional effects of this ageless therapeutical remedy on skin repair. Furthermore, the state-of-the-art in application techniques (incorporation into scaffolds as an alternative to direct administration) used to enhance honey-mediated wound-healing properties are explored.

Hyaluronan Hydrogels for Injection in Superficial Dermal Layers: An In Vitro Characterization to Compare Performance and Unravel the Scientific Basis of Their Indication

Background: Skinboosters represent the latest category of hyaluronan (HA) hydrogels released for aesthetic purposes. Different from originally developed gels, they are intended for more superficial injections, claiming a skin rejuvenation effect through hydration and possibly prompting biochemical effects in place of the conventional volumetric action. Here, three commercial skinboosters were characterized to unravel the scientific basis for such indication and to compare their performances. Methods: Gels were evaluated for water-soluble/insoluble-HA composition, rheology, hydration, cohesivity, stability and effect, in vitro, on human dermal fibroblasts towards the production of extracellular matrix components. Results: Marked differences in the insoluble-hydrogel amount and in the hydrodynamic parameters for water-soluble-HA chains were evidenced among the gels. Hydration, rigidity and cohesivity also varied over a wide range. Sensitivity to hyaluronidases and Reactive Oxygen Species was demonstrated allowing a stability ranking. Slight differences were found in gels’ ability to prompt elastin expression and in ColIV/ColI ratio. Conclusions. A wide panel of biophysical and biochemical parameters for skinboosters was provided, supporting clinicians in the conscious tuning of their use. Data revealed great variability in gels’ behavior notwithstanding the same clinical indication and unexpected similarities to the volumetric formulations. Data may be useful to improve customization of gel design toward specific uses.

Glabridin Liposome Ameliorating UVB-Induced Erythema and Lethery Skin by Suppressing Inflammatory Cytokine Production

Glabridin, a compound of the flavonoid, has shown outstanding skin-whitening and anti-aging properties, but its water insolubility limits its wide application. Therefore, glabridin liposome (GL) has been developed to improve its poor bioavailability, while there are few studies to evaluate its amelioration of UVB- induced photoaging. This study is performed to investigate the amelioration of GL against UVB- induced cutaneous photoaging. The prepared GL has a spheroidal morphology with an average diameter of 200 nm. The GL shows lower cytotoxicity than glabridin, but it has a more effective role in inhibition of melanin. Moreover, the application of GL can effectively relieve UV radiation induced erythema and leathery skin, associated with the down-regulated expression of inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-6 and IL-10). Taken together, these results demonstrate that GL has potentials as topical therapeutic agents against UVB radiation induced skin damage through inhibiting inflammation.

Challenging Cosmetic Innovation: The Skin Microbiota and Probiotics Protect the Skin from UV-Induced Damage

Many studies performed in the last decade have focused on the cutaneous microbiota. It has been shown that this microbiota plays a key role in skin homeostasis. Considered as “a second barrier” to the environment, it is very important to know how it reacts to exogenous aggressions. The cosmetics industry has a started to use this microbiota as a source of natural ingredients, particularly ones that confer photoprotection against ultraviolet (UV) rays. Interestingly, it has been demonstrated that bacterial molecules can block UV rays or reverse their harmful effects. Oral probiotics containing living microorganisms have also shown promising results in restoring skin homeostasis and reversing the negative effects of UV rays. Microbial-based active sunscreen compounds have huge potential for use as next-generation photoprotection products.

Antioxidant and reduced skin-ageing effects of a polyphenol-enriched dietary supplement in response to air pollution: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study

Background

Air pollution exposure is one of the major threats to skin health and accelerates skin ageing mainly through oxidative stress mechanisms. Since it is difficult to minimize skin exposure to air pollutants, especially in urban areas, strategies to protect the skin are needed. Plant phenolic compounds have been found to be effective in attenuating cellular oxidative stress and inflammation induced by different air pollutants and a dietary approach based on these compounds could provide an efficient protection measure.

Objective

Here we investigated the efficacy of a commercially available polyphenol-enriched dietary supplement (Zeropollution^®) in reducing pollution-induced oxidative stress and in improving different skin parameters related to skin ageing of Caucasian and Asian subjects exposed to air pollution. Zeropollution is composed of four standardized herbal extracts: Olea europaea leaf, Lippia citriodora, Rosmarinus officinalis, and Sophora japonica.

Design

A double-blind randomized, parallel group study was carried out on 100 outdoor workers living in a polluted urban European area (Milan) to assess the efficacy of the dietary supplement. The total antioxidant capacity on saliva (FRAP), the oxidative damage on skin (lipoperoxides content), skin moisturization (corneometer), transepidermal water loss (tewameter), skin radiance and colour (spectrophotometer), skin elasticity (cutometer), skin sebum content (sebumeter), and the skin roughness (image analysis) were measured.

Results

Both inter-group and intra-group analysis proved that the dietary supplement improved all clinical and biochemical-monitored parameters, in both Caucasian and Asian individuals. Some of the positive effects such as decreased wrinkle depth, increased elasticity and firmness, improved skin moisturization and transepidermal water loss, and reduced dark spots pigmentation were statistically significant as early as 2 weeks of product consumption.

Conclusions

The results of the study indicate reduced oxidative stress-induced skin damage in both Asian and Caucasian women living in a polluted urban area. Therefore, the oral intake of this four-plant based supplement could be considered a complementary nutrition strategy to avoid the negative effects of environmental pollution exposure.

The safety, efficacy and pharmaceutical quality of male enhancement nutraceuticals bought online: Truth versus claim

OBJECTIVE

Nutraceutical products are widely used for their claimed therapeutic benefits. However, falsified or adulterated nutraceuticals present a major health threat to consumers. This study investigates the pharmaceutical quality, safety and anti-inflammatory effects of six male enhancement nutraceuticals that claim to be 100% natural.

METHODS

Three batches of six male enhancement products were tested to detect the presence and levels of adulterants via high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The pharmaceutical quality of the selected nutraceuticals was tested with near infrared spectroscopy (NIR) and SeDeM. The cytotoxic effects of these products on HepG2 cells were determined through cell proliferation (XTT) and lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) cytotoxicity assays. Lastly, the in vitro inflammatory effects of these products were investigated using murine J774 macrophages through cytokine release analysis.

RESULTS

HPLC analysis detected the presence of sildenafil citrate, a vasodilator, and the active ingredient in Viagra and Revatio, in all batches of the products we analyzed. Amount of sildenafil citrate ranged from 0.45 mg to 51.85 mg among different batches. NIR assessment showed inter- and intra-batch heterogeneity in product composition. Results of the XTT and LDH assays showed significant cytotoxic effects of the analyzed products. XTT analysis revealed that the viability of HepG2 treated with tested products varied from 27.57% to 41.43%. Interestingly, the male enhancement products also showed anti-inflammatory effects.

CONCLUSION

Despite their labeling as 100% natural, all products tested in this study contained levels of sildenafil citrate, which was not reported on the packaging. There was a lack of pharmaceutical uniformity among products of the same batch and across different batches. Additionally, the products we tested had cytotoxic effects. These study findings highlight the adulteration, poor quality and hazard of these nutraceuticals. Therefore, strict regulation of these products and standardization of the definition of nutraceuticals are urgently needed. Further, these falsely advertised products should be withdrawn from the market due to potential adverse effects on the health of their consumers.

Effect of the Oral Administration of Common Evening Primrose Sprout (Oenothera biennis L.) Extract on Skin Function Improvement in UVB-irradiated Hairless Mice

Most of the studies on common evening primrose (Oenothera biennis L.) are focused on its oils (isolated from seed, root, and stem tissues). We aimed to investigate the effect of the oral administration of OBS-E on the improvement of skin function in skin-damaged hairless mice exposed to excessive ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation owing to the preliminary in vitro findings regarding the antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, and skin moisturizing activities of OBS-E. OBS-E administration for 14 weeks did not significantly affect the body weight or clinical signs. Significant reductions were observed in wrinkle parameters (area, number, length, and depth, and metalloproteinase levels) in OBS-E-administered mice compared with those in UVB-irradiated control mice. OBS-E significantly increased skin elasticity and hyaluronic acid content, but it significantly decreased transepidermal water loss. Histomorphometrical analysis revealed that OBS-E significantly reduced the epidermal thickness, area of the collagen-occupied region, and number of microfolds and inflammatory and mast cells. These results demonstrate that OBS-E can effectively enhance skin functions in terms of ameliorating wrinkle formation, promoting skin-moisturization, enhancing skin barrier function, and inhibiting inflammatory reactions. The obtained results provide good starting point for the continuation in the process of developing new inner beauty products based on OBS-E.

Protective effect of oral treatment with Cordia verbenacea extract against UVB irradiation deleterious effects in the skin of hairless mouse

Photochemoprotection of the skin can be achieved by inhibiting inflammation and oxidative stress, which we tested using Cordia verbenacea extract, a medicinal plant known for its rich content of antioxidant molecules and anti-inflammatory activity. In vitro antioxidant evaluation of Cordia verbenacea leaves ethanolic extract (CVE) presented the following results: ferric reducing antioxidant power (886.32 μM equivalent of Trolox/g extract); IC50 of 19.128 μg/ml for scavenging 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl; IC50 of 12.48 μg/mL for scavenging 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid); decrease of hydroperoxides from linoleic acid (IC50 of 10.20 μg/mL); inhibition of thiobarbituric acid reactive substances (IC50 8.90 μg/mL); iron-chelating ability in bathophenanthroline iron assay (IC50 47.35 μg/mL); chemiluminescence triggered by free radicals in the H2O2/horseradish peroxidase/luminol (IC50 0.286 μg/mL) and xanthine/xanthine oxidase/luminol (IC50 0.42 μg/mL) methods. CVE (10-100 mg per kg, 30 min before and immediately after UVB exposure) treatment was performed by gavage in hairless mice. CVE inhibited skin edema, neutrophil infiltration, and overproduction of MMP-9; reduced levels of TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL- 6; numbers of skin mast cells, epidermal thickening, number of epidermal apoptotic keratinocytes, and collagen degradation. CVE increased the skin's natural antioxidant defenses as observed by Nrf-2, NAD(P)H quinone oxidoreductase 1, and heme oxygenase 1 mRNA expression enhancement. Furthermore, CVE inhibited lipid peroxidation and superoxide anion production and recovered antioxidant reduced glutathione, catalase activity, and ROS scavenging capacity of the skin. Concluding, CVE downregulates the skin inflammatory and oxidative damages triggered by UVB, demonstrating its potentialities as a therapeutic approach.

Isolation of Industrial Important Bioactive Compounds from Microalgae

Microalgae are known as a rich source of bioactive compounds which exhibit different biological activities. Increased demand for sustainable biomass for production of important bioactive components with various potential especially therapeutic applications has resulted in noticeable interest in algae. Utilisation of microalgae in multiple scopes has been growing in various industries ranging from harnessing renewable energy to exploitation of high-value products. The focuses of this review are on production and the use of value-added components obtained from microalgae with current and potential application in the pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, cosmeceutical, energy and agri-food industries, as well as for bioremediation. Moreover, this work discusses the advantage, potential new beneficial strains, applications, limitations, research gaps and future prospect of microalgae in industry.

The biology of ergothioneine, an antioxidant nutraceutical

Ergothioneine (ERG) is an unusual thio-histidine betaine amino acid that has potent antioxidant activities. It is synthesised by a variety of microbes, especially fungi (including in mushroom fruiting bodies) and actinobacteria, but is not synthesised by plants and animals who acquire it via the soil and their diet, respectively. Animals have evolved a highly selective transporter for it, known as solute carrier family 22, member 4 (SLC22A4) in humans, signifying its importance, and ERG may even have the status of a vitamin. ERG accumulates differentially in various tissues, according to their expression of SLC22A4, favouring those such as erythrocytes that may be subject to oxidative stress. Mushroom or ERG consumption seems to provide significant prevention against oxidative stress in a large variety of systems. ERG seems to have strong cytoprotective status, and its concentration is lowered in a number of chronic inflammatory diseases. It has been passed as safe by regulatory agencies, and may have value as a nutraceutical and antioxidant more generally.

Skin toxicity following radiotherapy in patients with breast carcinoma: is anthocyanin supplementation beneficial?

BACKGROUND

The EU-supported ATHENA project stems from a previous study suggesting that moderate wine consumption reduced the side-effects of radiotherapy (RT) in breast cancer patients, an effect possibly due to non-alcoholic anthocyanin fractions of wine.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the role of anthocyanins on RT skin side effects in breast cancer patients.

METHODS

Randomized, controlled, double-blind clinical trial. Patients were assigned to an intensity modulated radiation therapy (IMRT) either for three or five weeks, then randomized to receive three times a day a water-soluble anthocyanin (125 mg)-rich extract of corn cob or a placebo. Supplementation started one week before till the end of RT. Skin characteristics were detected by a standardized, non-invasive Cutometer® dual-MPA580, providing quantitative indices of skin maximal distensibility (R0), elasticity (R2, R5, R7) and viscoelasticity (R6); a Mexameter® MX18 probe evaluated the skin erythema (Er) and melanin (M). Measures were performed before (T0), at the end of RT and of supplementation (T1), and 1, 6 and 12 months after RT (T2-T4). Acute and late skin toxicity were scored according to the RTOG/EORTG scale. Selected biomarkers were measured at T0 and T1.

RESULTS

193 patients previously assigned to 3- or 5-week RT schedules were randomized to either anthocyanin (97) or placebo (96) supplementation. RT induced changes in skin parameters: R0, R2, R5 and R7 decreased, while R6 increased; the changes in R0 and R6 continued in the same direction up to one year, while the others recovered towards basal values; Er and M peaked at T1 and T2, respectively, and returned to basal values at T4. Comparable skin changes were apparent in anthocyanin and placebo groups. A moderate RT-induced increase in total and HDL cholesterol and triglycerides was prevented by anthocyanins.

CONCLUSIONS

Anthocyanin supplementation did not prevent RT-induced local skin toxicity. The supplementation was well tolerated and safe.

A Dermonutrient Containing Special Collagen Peptides Improves Skin Structure and Function: A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled, Triple-Blind Trial Using Confocal Laser Scanning Microscopy on the Cosmetic Effects and Tolerance of a Drinkable Collagen Supplement

The purpose of this randomized, placebo-controlled, triple-blind trial on 60 healthy female volunteers was to assess the cosmetic effects on skin quality of a food supplement containing special collagen peptides together with acerola extract, vitamin C, vitamin E, biotin, and zinc after an intake of 12 weeks (Elasten^®, QUIRIS Healthcare, Germany). To reduce assessment bias maximally and increase the accuracy and objectivity of the outcomes, the trial design was triple blinded in a manner that neither the subjects nor the person administering the products nor the person who assessed the primary outcomes knew which subjects had received the test product and which had received the placebo. The expert grader assessing the confocal laser scanning microscopy images was additionally blinded regarding the time when the image was taken (on days 1 or 85). The objective, blinded, and validated image analyses using confocal laser scanning microscopy showed a significant improvement of the collagen structure of facial skin (primary endpoint) after intake of the test product, while no improvements were found after intake of the placebo. The proven positive nutritional effect on the collagen structure was fully consistent with positive subjective evaluations of relevant skin parameters such as elasticity, crinkliness/wrinkliness, and evenness in different body areas such as face, hands, décolleté, neck, backside, legs, and belly, all serving as secondary endpoints. The test product was found to be safe and very well tolerated. A cosmetically relevant improvement of the facial skin was demonstrated after administration of the collagen supplement.

GWAS Analysis of 17,019 Korean Women Identifies the Variants Associated with Facial Pigmented Spots

Variation in skin pigmentation can be affected by both environmental factors and intrinsic factors such as age, gender, and genetic variation. Recent GWASs revealed that genetic variants of genes functionally related to a pigmentation pathway were associated with skin pigmentary traits. However, these GWASs focused on populations with European ancestry, and only a few studies have been performed on Asian populations, limiting our understanding of the genetic basis of skin pigmentary traits in Asians. To evaluate the genetic variants associated with facial pigmented spots, we conducted a GWAS analysis of objectively measured facial pigmented spots in 17,019 Korean women. This large-scale GWAS identified several genomic loci that were significantly associated with facial pigmented spots (five previously reported loci and two previously unreported loci, to our knowledge), which were detected by UV light: BNC2 at 9p22 (rs16935073; P-value = 2.11 × 10^-46), PPARGC1B at 5q32 (rs32579; P-value = 9.04 × 10^-42), 10q26 (rs11198112; P-value = 9.66 × 10^-38), MC1R at 16q24 (rs2228479; P-value = 6.62 × 10^-21), lnc01877 at 2q33 (rs12693889; P-value = 1.59 × 10^-11), CDKN2B-AS1 at 9p21 (rs643319; P-value = 7.76 × 10^-9), and MFSD12 at 19p13 (rs2240751; P-value = 9.70 × 10^-9). Further functional characterization of the candidate genes needs to be done to fully evaluate their contribution to facial pigmented spots.