Ultraviolet radiation and skin aging: roles of reactive oxygen species, inflammation and protease activation, and strategies for prevention of inflammation-induced matrix degradation - a review

Photoprotective Effect of Artemisia sieversiana Ehrhart Essential Oil Against UVB-induced Photoaging in Mice

Photoaging refers to the extrinsic aging resulting from ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, which impacts skin appearance and is accompanied by the risk of skin carcinoma. Developing natural products as photoprotective agents is of great interest in cosmetic industry nowadays. The present study aimed at investigating the possible use of Artemisia sieversiana Ehrhart essential oil (AEO) for the prevention of photoaging induced by UVB. AEO was characterized by chamazulene, which accounted for 38.92% among total 51 identified compounds. In in vitro assays, AEO was found to be a moderate antioxidant and good UVB filter with photostability. A UVB-induced photoaging mice model was established with three AEO formulations (0.1%, 0.5% and 1.5%, w/w) topically applied prior to UVB irradiation. The activities of catalase, particularly superoxide dismutase of skin increased, while malondialdehyde content decreased in AEO groups as compared with model controls. The production of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1 and MMP-3) and depletion of hydroxyproline in skin were inhibited by AEO in a dose-dependent manner. Histological evaluation indicated that AEO decreased epidermal thickness, inflammatory cell infiltration, collagen degradation and elastin aberrance. These findings indicated that AEO could be a promising sunscreen agent in protecting the skin against photoaging.

Sunscreens and Photoaging: A Review of Current Literature

Sunscreens have been on the market for many decades as a means of protection against ultraviolet-induced erythema. Over the years, evidence has also shown their efficacy in the prevention of photoaging, dyspigmentation, DNA damage, and photocarcinogenesis. In the USA, most broad-spectrum sunscreens provide protection against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation and short-wavelength ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation. Evidence suggests that visible light and infrared light may play a role in photoaging and should be considered when choosing a sunscreen. Currently, there is a paucity of US FDA-approved filters that provide protection against long UVA (> 370 nm) and none against visible light. Additionally, various sunscreen additives such as antioxidants and photolyases have also been reported to protect against and possibly reverse signs of photoaging. This literature review evaluates the utility of sunscreen in protecting against photoaging and further explores the requirements for an ideal sunscreen.

Nicotinamide Attenuates UV-Induced Stress Damage in Human Primary Keratinocytes from Cancerization Fields

UVB radiation directly damages DNA, increases ROS and nitric oxide (NO) release, and promotes inflammation leading to genomic instability and cell death. Nicotinamide (NAM) is the precursor of NAM adenine dinucleotide, essential for cell energy production and DNA damage repair. NAM protects HaCat cells from UV-induced impairment; however, little is known about its effects on human primary keratinocytes and those isolated from field cancerization (i.e., field cancerization human primary keratinocytes [FC-HPKs]). We examined the role of NAM against UV-induced oxidative stress damages in FC-HPKs, isolated from precancerous lesions and skin cancers, and in normal human epidermal keratinocytes. Cells were treated for 18, 24, and 48 hours with NAM (5, 25, and 50 μM, respectively) before UVB irradiation. FC-HPK showed four-fold higher basal ROS levels than normal human epidermal keratinocytes; NAM downregulated ROS production only in irradiated FC-HPKs, which showed a greater sensibility to UV rays. UV exposure increased OGG1, inducible nitric oxide synthase, and IL-1β expression, an effect counteracted by NAM pretreatment. Intracellular nitric oxide production and DNA damages were inhibited by NAM exposure before irradiation. Collectively, our findings indicate that pretreatment with 25 μM NAM 24 hours before UVB irradiation effectively prevents oxidative stress formation, DNA damage, and inflammation in both normal human epidermal keratinocytes and FC-HPKs.

Antiphotoaging properties of Zingiber montanum essential oil isolated by solvent-free microwave extraction against ultraviolet B-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts

Maintaining youthful skin from photoaging with natural products, including essential oils, is a vital strategy that has piqued the interest of researchers in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. This research aimed to investigate the protective properties of Zingiber montanum (J. Koenig) Link ex A. Dietr. essential oil against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin damage and photoaging in normal human dermal fibroblast (HDFn) cells. The essential oil was extracted from fresh plant rhizomes using solvent-free microwave extraction. Its antiphotoaging properties in HDFn cells were investigated using reactive oxygen species (ROS)-scavenging, wound healing, matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9) expression, procollagen synthesis, and elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory assays. The results showed that the test oil exhibited no significant toxicity in HDFn at concentrations up to 10 mg/mL, with cell viability exceeding 90%. Following UVB irradiation at 30 mJ/cm², Z. montanum oil demonstrated time and concentration-dependent ROS radical scavenging capabilities. In a cell migration assay, the essential oil demonstrated wound-healing properties. Z. montanum oil suppressed the expression of MMPs and enhanced the synthesis of type I procollagen at a concentration of 0.1-1 mg/mL. In addition, 0.1-1 mg/mL Z. montanum oil inhibited elastase activity in a concentration-dependent manner but did not affect tyrosinase activity. From these findings, the essential oil of Z. montanum could have potential applications in developing cosmeceutical products to prevent skin photoaging.

Smoking behavior and circulating vitamin D levels in adults: A meta-analysis

To determine the effect of smoking on circulating vitamin D in adults, we performed a meta-analysis. Literature before 9 May 2021 was retrieved from electronic literature databases such as EMBASE, PubMed, and Cochrane. The quality of the included studies was assessed by two researchers against the Newcastle-Ottawa scale and JBI Evidence-based Health Care Centre criteria. All eligible studies and statistical analyses were performed using STATA 14. Twenty-four studies with 11,340 participants meeting the criteria were included in the meta-analysis. The results of meta-analysis showed that the level of circulating 25(OH)D in smokers was lower than that in nonsmokers. A subgroup analysis based on vitamin D supplement use showed that both smokers who used vitamin D supplements and smokers who did not use vitamin D supplements had lower blood 25(OH)D levels compared with the control group. In addition, subjects were divided into different subgroups according to age for meta-analysis, and the results showed that the serum 25(OH)D level in each subgroup of smokers was lower than that in the control group. This meta-analysis revealed differences in circulating vitamin D levels between smokers and nonsmokers, with smokers likely to have lower circulating vitamin D levels.

Standardized Edible Bird's Nest Extract Prevents UVB Irradiation-Mediated Oxidative Stress and Photoaging in the Skin

We investigated whether standardized edible bird’s nest extract (BNE-PK) can prevent ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation-mediated oxidative stress and photoaging in the skin using in vitro and in vivo models. BNE-PK increased skin hydration by hyaluronic acid synthesis and activation of ceramide synthase in UVB-irradiated hairless mice and HaCaT cells. Furthermore, BNE-PK suppressed melanogenesis by down-regulation of the cAMP/PKA/CREB/MITF/TRP-1/TRP-2/tyrosinase pathway in UVB-irradiated hairless mice and 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine (IBMX)-treated B16F10 cells. In UVB-irradiated hairless mice, BNE-PK attenuated the wrinkle formation-related JNK/c-FOS/c-Jun/MMP pathway and activated the TGF-βRI/SMAD3/pro-collagen type I pathway during UVB-mediated oxidative stress. Based on these findings, our data suggest that BNE-PK may potentially be used for the development of effective natural anti-photoaging functional foods for skin health.

Phyllanthus emblica L. (amla) branch: A safe and effective ingredient against skin aging

BACKGROUND AND AIM

Skin aging influences the changes in skin, including skin dryness, wrinkle, and irregular pigmentation. Amla (Phyllanthus emblica L.) branch has shown several benefits, but not the anti-skin aging. The study aimed to evaluate the anti-skin aging efficacy of amla branch.

EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURE

Amla branches were standardized the phenolic acids. The extract was investigated anti-skin aging activities, including antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-melanogenesis, and matrix metalloproteinase-2 inhibitory assays. Topical gel containing extract was prepared and evaluated the skin irritation by a single closed patch test. Randomized, double-blind, placebo-control study was performed in 20 volunteers for 84 consecutive days. The tested skin was evaluated by Chromameter® CR 400, Dermalab® USB, Mexameter® MX 18, Corneometer® CM 825, and Visioscan® VC 98.

RESULTS

Amla branch extract, a dark brown powder, consisted a variety of phenolic acids, mainly sinapic and ferulic acids. The extract exhibited the potent antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory activities in vitro assays and the melanin suppression through inhibition of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-2 activities, the strong antioxidant, and the potent matrix metalloproteinase-2 in cellular assays at 0.1 mg/mL. Topical gel containing 0.1% extract was a stable and safe formulation. Clinical study was proved the superior anti-skin aging efficacy, including the lightening skin color, the enhanced skin elasticity and hydration, and the skin wrinkle reduction.

CONCLUSION

The study results suggested that amla branch is a rich source of bioactive compounds and can be a potential ingredient for utilization in anti-skin aging products.

Effects of Carissa carandas Linn. Fruit, Pulp, Leaf, and Seed on Oxidation, Inflammation, Tyrosinase, Matrix Metalloproteinase, Elastase, and Hyaluronidase Inhibition

In this study, the potential of Carissa carandas Linn. as a natural anti-aging, antioxidant, and skin whitening agent was studied. Various parts of C. carandas, including fruit, leaf, seed, and pulp were sequentially extracted by maceration using n-hexane, ethyl acetate, and ethanol, respectively. High-performance liquid chromatography, Folin–Ciocalteu, and Dowd method were used to investigate their chemical compositions. The inhibitory activities of oxidation process, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase were analyzed. Cytotoxicity was determined by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5 diphenyl tetrazolium bromide assay in a human epidermal keratinocyte line (HaCaT). The results exhibited that ethyl acetate could extract the most ursolic acid from C. carandas, while ethanol could extract the most phenolics and flavonoids. The leaf extract had the highest content of ursolic acid, phenolics, and flavonoids. The leaf extracted with ethyl acetate (AL) had the highest ursolic acid content (411.8 mg/g extract) and inhibited MMP-1, NF-kappa B, and tyrosinase activity the most. Ursolic acid has been proposed as a key component in these biological activities. Although several C. carandas extracts are beneficial to human skin, AL has been proposed for use in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals due to its superior anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammation, and whitening properties.

Investigation of Photoprotective, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Capacities and LC-ESI-MS Phenolic Profile of Astragalus gombiformis Pomel

Plant-derived compounds have recently been gaining popularity as skincare factors due to their ability to absorb ultraviolet radiations and their anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. In this light, this work aimed to evaluate in vitro the pharmacological activities of the butanolic extract prepared from the aerial parts of Astragalus gombiformis Pomel, an endemic species to southern Algeria. The sun protection factor was used to assess the photoprotective effect (SPF), the protein denaturation method to determine the anti-inflammatory activity, and brine shrimp nauplii and OxHLIA assay, respectively, to assess the cytotoxicity and antioxidant capacity of A. gombiformis. In addition, LC-ESI-MS analysis was employed for the characterization of the phenolic constituents of A. gombiformis. The results showed that A. gombiformis had high capacity for absorbing UV radiations with an SPF of 37.78 ± 0.85 and significant anti-inflammatory activity with a percentage inhibition of 75.38% which is close to that of diclofenac and ketoprofen. In addition, A. gombiformis was found to have effective cytotoxicity against Artemia nauplii with a DC50 value of about 44.7 µg/mL, but a weak hemolytic effect against human erythrocytes. LC-ESI-MS results detected the presence of 17 phenolic compounds with a predominance of cirsiliol, silymarin, quercitrin (quercetin-3-O-rhamnoside), and kaempferol. Taken together, these results suggest that A. gombiformis extract could be used as a skincare agent in cosmetic formulations, providing excellent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory protection, allowing the treatment of skin conditions, as well as a pharmaceutical agent with multidimensional applications.

Acetylated Resveratrol and Oxyresveratrol Suppress UVB-Induced MMP-1 Expression in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Resveratrol (RES) and oxyresveratrol (OXYRES) are considered and utilized as active ingredients of anti-aging skin cosmetics. However, these compounds are susceptible to oxidative discoloration and unpleasant odor in solutions, limiting their use in cosmetics. Accordingly, RES and OXYRES were chemically modified to acetylated derivatives with enhanced stability, and their anti-aging effect on the skin and detailed molecular mechanism of their acetylated derivatives were investigated. Acetylated RES and OXYRES lost their acetyl group and exerted an inhibitory effect on H₂O₂-induced ROS levels in human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cells. In addition, RES, OXYRES, and their acetylated derivatives suppressed UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression via inhibition of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) and Akt/mTOR signaling pathways. Furthermore, RES, OXYRES, and their acetylated derivatives suppressed type I collagen in TPA-treated HDF cells. Collectively, these results suggest the beneficial effects and underlying molecular mechanisms of RES, OXYRES, and their acetylated derivatives for anti- skin aging applications.

Protection against UVB deleterious skin effects in a mouse model: effect of a topical emulsion containing Cordia verbenacea extract

Cordia verbenacea DC (Boraginaceae) is a flowering shrub found along the Brazilian Atlantic Forest, Brazilian coast, and low areas of the Amazon. The crude extract of its leaves is widely used in Brazilian folk medicine as an anti-inflammatory, both topically and orally. The aim of this study is to evaluate the activity of C. verbenacea ethanolic leaves extract (CVE) against UVB-triggered cutaneous inflammation and oxidative damage in hairless mice. CVE treatment recovered cutaneous antioxidant capacity demonstrated by scavenging ABTS+ free radical and iron-reducing antioxidant potential evaluated by FRAP. CVE also controlled the following UV-triggered events in the skin: reduced glutathione (GSH) depletion, catalase activity decrease, and superoxide anion (O⋅-) build-up. Furthermore, mice treated with CVE exhibited less inflammation, shown by the reduction in COX-2 expression, TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6, edema, and neutrophil infiltration. CVE also regulated epidermal thickening and sunburn cells, reduced dermal mast cells, and preserved collagen integrity. The best results were obtained using 5% CVE-added emulsion. The present data demonstrate that topical administration of CVE presents photochemoprotective activity in a mouse model of UVB inflammation and oxidative stress. Because of the intricate network linking inflammation, oxidative stress, and skin cancer, these results also indicate the importance of further studies elucidating a possible role of C. verbenacea in the prevention of UVB-induced skin cancer and evaluating a potential synergy between CVE and sunscreens in topical products against UVB damaging effects to the skin.

Syringaresinol derived from Panax ginseng berry attenuates oxidative stress-induced skin aging via autophagy

Background

In aged skin, reactive oxygen species (ROS) induces degradation of the extracellular matrix (ECM), leading to visible aging signs. Collagens in the ECM are cleaved by matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Syringaresinol (SYR), isolated from Panax ginseng berry, has various physiological activities, including anti-inflammatory action. However, the anti-aging effects of SYR via antioxidant and autophagy regulation have not been elucidated.

Methods

The preventive effect of SYR on skin aging was investigated in human HaCaT keratinocytes in the presence of H₂O₂, and the keratinocyte cells were treated with SYR (0–200 μg/mL). mRNA and protein levels of MMP-2 and -9 were determined by real-time PCR and Western blotting, respectively. Radical scavenging activity was researched by 2,2 diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′-azino-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) assays. LC3B level was assessed by Western blotting and confocal microscopy.

Results

SYR significantly reduced gene expression and protein levels of MMP-9 and -2 in both H₂O₂-treated and untreated HaCaT cells. SYR did not show cytotoxicity to HaCaT cells. SYR exhibited DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging activities with an EC₅₀ value of 10.77 and 10.35 μg/mL, respectively. SYR elevated total levels of endogenous and exogenous LC3B in H₂O₂-stimulated HaCaT cells. 3-Methyladenine (3-MA), an autophagy inhibitor, counteracted the inhibitory effect of SYR on MMP-2 expression.

Conclusion

SYR showed antioxidant activity and up-regulated autophagy activity in H₂O₂-stimulated HaCaT cells, lowering the expression of MMP-2 and MMP-9 associated with skin aging. Our results suggest that SYR has potential value as a cosmetic additive for prevention of skin aging.

Antioxidant and anti-aging carbon quantum dots using tannic acid

Overexpression of collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase is caused by external factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation and stress, resulting in wrinkle formation and freckles through the loss of skin elasticity and skin pigmentation. In this study, we developed novel carbon quantum dots (CQDs) with antioxidant and anti-aging properties using tannic acid as a carbon source through a simple microwave-assisted pyrolysis method. The synthesized tannic acid-derived CQDs (T-CQDs) showed bright blue fluorescence (QY = 28.2 ± 4.0%), exhibiting maximum emission at 430 nm under 350 nm excitation. Even though small amount of the T-CQDs (3μg ml^-1) was used, they exhibited excellent free radical scavenging ability (82.8 ± 4.3%). Also, the T-CQDs (10μg ml^-1) revealed remarkable inhibitory activity against skin aging-related collagenase (77.6 ± 4.8%), elastase (52.6 ± 1.0%), and tyrosinase (44.2 ± 1.3%), demonstrating their antioxidant and anti-aging effects. Furthermore, their antioxidant and anti-aging properties were superior to those of tannic acid, L-ascorbic acid, and quercetin used as positive controls. Finally, the T-CQDs effectively suppressed UV-induced reactive oxygen species generation by 30% at the cellular levels and showed high cell viability (99.7 ± 0.8%) even at 500μg ml^-1. These results demonstrate that the T-CQDs with superior antioxidant, anti-aging properties, and low cytotoxicity can be utilized as novel anti-aging materials in cosmetic and nanomedicine fields.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

Signaling pathways associated with structural changes in varicose veins: a case-control study

INTRODUCTION AND OBJECTIVES

In varicose veins, blood pressure increases in the veins of the lower extremities due to mechanical stimulation and function remodeling. The aim of this study is assessment of Signaling pathways associated with structural changes in varicose veins.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

This pilot study was performed on patients with varicose veins, which had undergone surgery. The healthy tissues from trauma patients or vascular bypass without underlying diseases were used for control samples. Hematoxylin-eosin, trichrome, and elastin staining were used for histopathological examination. The levels of MDA (malondialdehyde), total thiol, SOD (Superoxide dismutase) and NO (nitric oxide) level were measured using Elisa kits to evaluate the oxidative stress level. Gene expression levels of MMP2, MMP9, FOXO3a, APOE and p53 genes were determined using Real-time PCR.

RESULTS

This study showed, the vascular Vein wall changes are visible in vascular collagen staining. Although these changes are observed in the structure of vascular wall collagen fibers, the accumulation of collagen and elastin was increased in the walls of varicose veins compared to the control group. The amount of nitric oxide and thiol were increased in the varicose group (P < 0.0001). The expression of metalloproteinase2 gene associated with extracellular matrix change was increased in varicose veins. However, the amount of metalloproteinase 9 was decreased in this group compared to control group. FOXO3a, APOE Genes were down-regulated in the varicose veins compared to control group, while p53 gene expression was significantly increased in the varicose group (P < 0.0001).

CONCLUSION

This study demonstrated changes in oxidative stress, morphological structure, and aging pathways in varicose when compared to non-varicose veins. The changes in oxidative stress may be associated with the variations in morphological structure and aging pathways which contribute to the pathogenesis of varicose veins.

Dietary Collagen Hydrolysates Ameliorate Furrowed and Parched Skin Caused by Photoaging in Hairless Mice

Collagen hydrolysates have been suggested as a favorable antiaging modality in skin photoaged by persistent exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UV). The current study evaluated the beneficial effect of collagen hydrolysates (fsCH) extracted from Pangasius hypophthalmus fish skin on wrinkle formation and moisture preservation in dorsal skin of hairless mice challenged with UV-B. Inter-comparative experiments were conducted for anti-photoaging among fsCH, retinoic acid (RA), N-acetyl-D-glucosamine (NAG), and glycine-proline-hydroxyproline (GPH). Treating human HaCaT keratinocytes with 100−200 μg/mL fsCH reciprocally ameliorated the expression of aquaporin 3 (AQP3) and CD44 deranged by UV-B. The UV-B-induced deep furrows and skin thickening were improved in parched dorsal skin of mice supplemented with 206–412 mg/kg fsCH as well as RA and GPH. The UV-B irradiation enhanced collagen fiber loss in the dorsal dermis, which was attenuated by fsCH through enhancing procollagen conversion to collagen. The matrix metalloproteinase expression by UV-B in dorsal skin was diminished by fsCH, similar to RA and GPH, via blockade of collagen degradation. Supplementing fsCH to UV-B-irradiated mice decreased transepidermal water loss in dorsal skin with reduced AQP3 level and restored keratinocyte expression of filaggrin. The expression of hyaluronic acid synthase 2 and hyaluronidase 1 by UV-B was remarkably ameliorated with increased production of hyaluronic acid by treating fsCH to photoaged mice. Taken together, fsCH attenuated photoaging typical of deep wrinkles, epidermal thickening, and skin water loss, like NAG, RA, or GPH, through inhibiting collagen destruction and epidermal barrier impairment.

Combination of Bifidobacterium longum and Galacto-Oligosaccharide Protects the Skin from Photoaging

Overexposure to ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation induces photoaging that is characterized by the formation of wrinkles and loss of skin elasticity. To understand the mechanism of action of probiotics and prebiotics in skin protection against photoaging, we investigated the effects of dietary supplementation with the probiotic, Bifidobacterium longum, and prebiotic, galacto-oligosaccharide, on UVB-induced photoaging in hairless mice. We measured short chain fatty acid (SCFA) levels, antioxidant enzyme activity, and inflammatory signaling protein levels to elucidate the possible mechanisms underlying the effects of the dietary supplements B. longum and galacto-oligosaccharide. We observed that dietary supplementation with B. longum and galacto-oligosaccharide, individually and in combination, exerted protective effects against UVB-induced photoaging, showing anti-inflammatory and antioxidative effects. In particular, supplementation with the combination of B. longum and galacto-oligosaccharide showed stronger protective effects than supplementation with the probiotic or prebiotic alone. In addition, the serum levels of SCFAs and acetate were increased following dietary supplementation with B. longum and galacto-oligosaccharide, especially in combination. Therefore, we suggest that the combination of B. longum and galacto-oligosaccharide may potentially be used as a functional food to protect UVB-induced photoaging.

In Vitro Evaluation of the Photoprotective Potential of Quinolinic Alkaloids Isolated from the Antarctic Marine Fungus Penicillium echinulatum for Topical Use

Marine-derived fungi proved to be a rich source of biologically active compounds. The genus Penicillium has been extensively studied regarding their secondary metabolites and biological applications. However, the photoprotective effects of these metabolites remain underexplored. Herein, the photoprotective potential of Penicillium echinulatum, an Antarctic alga-associated fungus, was assessed by UV absorption, photostability study, and protection from UVA-induced ROS generation assay on human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) and reconstructed human skin (RHS). The photosafety was evaluated by the photoreactivity (OECD TG 495) and phototoxicity assays, performed by 3T3 neutral red uptake (3T3 NRU PT, OECD TG 432) and by the RHS model. Through a bio-guided purification approach, four known alkaloids, (-)-cyclopenin (1), dehydrocyclopeptine (2), viridicatin (3), and viridicatol (4), were isolated. Compounds 3 and 4 presented absorption in UVB and UVA-II regions and were considered photostable after UVA irradiation. Despite compounds 3 and 4 showed phototoxic potential in 3T3 NRU PT, no phototoxicity was observed in the RHS model (reduction of cell viability < 30%), which indicates their very low acute photoirritation and high photosafety potential in humans. Viridicatin was considered weakly photoreactive, while viridicatol showed no photoreactivity; both compounds inhibited UVA-induced ROS generation in HaCaT cells, although viridicatol was not able to protect the RHS model against UVA-induced ROS production. Thus, the results highlighted the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of metabolites produced by P. echinulatum which can be considered a new class of molecules for photoprotection, since their photosafety and non-cytotoxicity were predicted using recommended in vitro methods for topical use.

Therapeutic Effects of Dipterocarpus tuberculatus with High Antioxidative Activity Against UV-Induced Photoaging of NHDF Cells and Nude Mice

To investigate the therapeutic effects of methanol extracts of Dipterocarpus tuberculatus Roxb. (MED) against UV-induced photoaging, we assessed for alterations in the antioxidant activity, anti-apoptotic effects, ECM modulation, skin appearances, and anti-inflammatory response in normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) cells and nude mice orally treated with MED. High levels of tannin content and high free radical scavenging activity to DPPH were determined in MED, while seven active components, namely, gallic acid, bergenin, ellagic acid, ε-viniferin, asiatic acid, oleanolic acid, and 2α-hydroxyursolic acid, were identified using LC–MS analyses. UV-induced alterations in the NO concentration, SOD activity, and Nrf2 expression were remarkably recovered in MED-treated NHDF cells. Moreover, the decreased number of apoptotic cells and G2/M phase arrest were observed in the UV + MED-treated groups. Similar recoveries were detected for β-galactosidase, MMP-2/9 expression, and intracellular elastase activity. Furthermore, MED treatment induced suppression of the COX-2-induced iNOS mediated pathway, expression of inflammatory cytokines, and inflammasome activation in UV-radiated NHDF cells. The anti-photoaging effects observed in NHDF cells were subsequently evaluated and validated in UV + MED-treated nude mice through skin phenotypes and histopathological structure analyses. Taken together, these results indicate that MED exerts therapeutic effects against UV-induced photoaging and has the potential for future development as a treatment for photoaging.

Evaluation of antityrosinase activity and mechanism, antioxidation, and UV filter properties of theaflavin

Tyrosinase is a key metalloenzyme for the biosynthesis of melanin that plays a critical role in the prevention of skin damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. However, the overproduction of melanin may cause a variety of skin diseases. Due to the toxicity and inefficiency of existing tyrosinase inhibitors, it is urgent to identify safe and potent alternatives from natural sources. Theaflavin, a single-component extracted from black tea, has been found to possess a variety of pharmacological activities. Herein, the inhibition kinetics of theaflavin on tyrosinase and inhibitory mechanism were determined using spectroscopy, molecular docking, and zebrafish model. The results showed that theaflavin inhibited the diphenolase activity of tyrosinase in a reversible mixed type manner with IC₅₀ of 229.75 μmol/L and hindered the synthesis of melanin in zebrafish. This may be due to the formation of eight hydrogen bonds and hydrophobic effects between theaflavin and tyrosinase according to the results of molecular docking. To study the possible effects on the prevention of free radical-mediated skin cancer and photoaging caused by UV radiation, the antioxidation and UV filter properties of theaflavin were further verified. This study demonstrates that theaflavin is a potential multifunctional compound that can be used in cosmetic and medicinal products.

Combined Effects of Carotenoids and Polyphenols in Balancing the Response of Skin Cells to UV Irradiation

Oral carotenoids and polyphenols have been suggested to induce photo-protective effects. The aim of the study was to test whether the combination of carotenoids and polyphenols produce greater protective effects from UV-induced damage to skin cells. Such damage is characterized by inflammation and oxidative stress; thus, the photo-protective effect can be partially explained by modulating the nuclear factor kappa B (NFκB) and antioxidant response element/Nrf2 (ARE/Nrf2) transcription systems, known as important regulators of these two processes. Indeed, it was found in keratinocytes that carotenoids and polyphenols inhibit UVB-induced NFκB activity and release of cytokine IL-6. A combination of tomato extract with rosemary extract inhibited UVB-induced release of IL-6 more than each of the compounds alone. Moreover, this combination synergistically activated ARE/Nrf2 transcription systems. Inflammatory cytokines such as IL-6 and TNFα induce the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which leads to collagen breakdown; thus, it is important to note that carnosic acid reduced TNFα-induced MMP-1 secretion from human dermal fibroblasts. The in vitro results suggest beneficial effects of phytonutrient combinations on skin health. To assure that clinical experiments to prove such effects in humans are feasible, the human bioavailability of carotenoids from tomato extract was tested, and nearly a twofold increase in their plasma concentrations was detected. This study demonstrates that carotenoids and polyphenols cooperate in balancing UV-induced skin cell damage, and suggests that NFκB and ARE/Nrf2 are involved in these effects.

Synthesis of Biobased Phloretin Analogues: An Access to Antioxidant and Anti-Tyrosinase Compounds for Cosmetic Applications

The current cosmetic and nutraceutical markets are characterized by a strong consumer demand for a return to natural products that are less harmful to both the consumers and the environment than current petrosourced products. Phloretin, a natural dihydrochalcone (DHC) found in apple, has been widely studied for many years and identified as a strong antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase ingredient for cosmetic formulations. Its low concentration in apples does not allow it to be obtained by direct extraction from biomass in large quantities to meet market volumes and prices. Moreover, its remarkable structure prevents its synthesis through a green process. To overcome these issues, the synthesis of phloretin analogs appears as an alternative to access valuable compounds that are potentially more active than phloretin itself. Under such considerations, 12 chalcones (CHs) and 12 dihydrochalcones (DHCs) were synthesized through a green Claisen-Schmidt condensation using bio-based reagents. In order to evaluate the potential of these molecules, radical scavenging DPPH and anti-tyrosinase tests have been conducted. Moreover, the UV filtering properties and the stability of these analogs towards UV-radiations have been evaluated. Some molecules showed competitive antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities regarding phloretin. Two compounds in particular showed EC₅₀ lower than phloretin, one chalcone and one dihydrochalcone.

Efficacy of Alpinumisoflavone Isolated from Maclura tricuspidata Fruit in Tumor Necrosis Factor-α-Induced Damage of Human Dermal Fibroblasts

The skin is an important organ in the human body that protects the body from environmentally hazardous substances. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) cause inflammatory reactions and degradation of the extracellular matrix leading to skin aging and various cutaneous lesions. This study evaluated the potential of isoflavones isolated from Maclura tricuspidata fruit to prevent TNF-α-induced skin inflammation in normal human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). It focused on alpinumisoflavone (AIF) that suppressed the accumulation of ROS and nitric oxide (NO) in tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α)-treated HDFs. AIF inhibited the TNF-α-induced increase in matrix metalloproteinase-1, decreased procollagen I α1, and suppressed pro-inflammatory mediators and pro-inflammatory cytokines, including NO synthase, cyclooxygenase-2, interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6, and IL-8 that trigger inflammatory responses. AIF inhibited nuclear factor-κB and activating protein 1 mitogen-activated protein kinases that were increased by TNF-α stimulation. These results suggest that AIF may protect skin from aging and various cutaneous lesions.

Predicting Proteolysis in Complex Proteomes Using Deep Learning

Both protease- and reactive oxygen species (ROS)-mediated proteolysis are thought to be key effectors of tissue remodeling. We have previously shown that comparison of amino acid composition can predict the differential susceptibilities of proteins to photo-oxidation. However, predicting protein susceptibility to endogenous proteases remains challenging. Here, we aim to develop bioinformatics tools to (i) predict cleavage site locations (and hence putative protein susceptibilities) and (ii) compare the predicted vulnerabilities of skin proteins to protease- and ROS-mediated proteolysis. The first goal of this study was to experimentally evaluate the ability of existing protease cleavage site prediction models (PROSPER and DeepCleave) to identify experimentally determined MMP9 cleavage sites in two purified proteins and in a complex human dermal fibroblast-derived extracellular matrix (ECM) proteome. We subsequently developed deep bidirectional recurrent neural network (BRNN) models to predict cleavage sites for 14 tissue proteases. The predictions of the new models were tested against experimental datasets and combined with amino acid composition analysis (to predict ultraviolet radiation (UVR)/ROS susceptibility) in a new web app: the Manchester proteome susceptibility calculator (MPSC). The BRNN models performed better in predicting cleavage sites in native dermal ECM proteins than existing models (DeepCleave and PROSPER), and application of MPSC to the skin proteome suggests that: compared with the elastic fiber network, fibrillar collagens may be susceptible primarily to protease-mediated proteolysis. We also identify additional putative targets of oxidative damage (dermatopontin, fibulins and defensins) and protease action (laminins and nidogen). MPSC has the potential to identify potential targets of proteolysis in disparate tissues and disease states.

Exopolysaccharide from Lactobacillus plantarum HY7714 Protects against Skin Aging through Skin-Gut Axis Communication

Skin aging occurs inevitably as a natural result of physiological changes over time. In particular, solar exposure of the skin accounts for up to 90% of skin damage. Numerous studies have examined the ability of dietary constituents to prevent skin aging, and recent research has emphasized the role of functional probiotics in intestinal function and skin aging. However, the mechanism of the interactions between aging and probiotics has not been elucidated yet. The aim of this study was to determine the role of exopolysaccharides (EPS) produced by lactic acid bacteria (LAB) identified as Lactobacillus plantarum HY7714 in regulating tight junctions in intestinal epithelial cells and increasing moisture retention in human dermal fibroblasts cells. We observed that HY7714 EPS controlled intestinal tight junctions in Caco-2 cells by upregulating the genes encoding occludin-1 (OCL-1) and zonula occluden-1 (ZO-1). In addition, HY7714 EPS effectively improved UVB-induced cytotoxicity and hydration capacity in HS68 cells by downregulating production of metalloproteinases (MMPs) and reactive oxygen species (ROS). In summary, HY7714 EPS is an effective anti-aging molecule in skin and may have therapeutic potential against skin diseases and UVB-induced damage. Therefore, HY7714 EPS serves as a functional substance in skin-gut axis communication.

Systematic Identification of Regulators of Oxidative Stress Reveals Non-canonical Roles for Peroxisomal Import and the Pentose Phosphate Pathway

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) play critical roles in metabolism and disease, yet a comprehensive analysis of the cellular response to oxidative stress is lacking. To systematically identify regulators of oxidative stress, we conducted genome-wide Cas9/CRISPR and shRNA screens. This revealed a detailed picture of diverse pathways that control oxidative stress response, ranging from the TCA cycle and DNA repair machineries to iron transport, trafficking, and metabolism. Paradoxically, disrupting the pentose phosphate pathway (PPP) at the level of phosphogluconate dehydrogenase (PGD) protects cells against ROS. This dramatically alters metabolites in the PPP, consistent with rewiring of upper glycolysis to promote antioxidant production. In addition, disruption of peroxisomal import unexpectedly increases resistance to oxidative stress by altering the localization of catalase. Together, these studies provide insights into the roles of peroxisomal matrix import and the PPP in redox biology and represent a rich resource for understanding the cellular response to oxidative stress.

Antioxidative and Skin Protective Effects of Canarium subulatum Methanol Extract on Keratinocytes

Canarium subulatum is a traditional medical herb used in South Asia. Recently, the anti-inflammatory effects of C. subulatum methanol extract (Cs-ME) have been reported; however, the effect of Cs-ME on skin physiology has not yet been elucidated. Therefore, in this study, we evaluated the protective effect of Cs-ME on UV-induced skin aging and cell death as well as the reinforcing effect on the skin barrier. According to viable cell counting and MTT assays, Cs-ME significantly reduced UV-evoked HaCaT cell death. Cs-ME blocked reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in UV-irradiated HaCaT cells and showed radical scavenging activity against DPPH and ABTS. In addition, H2O2-induced cell death was inhibited by Cs-ME, indicating that Cs-ME protects cells from UV-derived cell death through the suppression of ROS. PCR analysis revealed that Cs-ME diminished the expression of aging-related HYAL-1 and MMP-1 genes in UV-treated HaCaT cells. Elevated HYAL-1 and MMP-1 mRNA expression in H2O2-stimulated HaCaT cells was also decreased by Cs-ME, suggesting that Cs-ME exerts antiaging activity via the inhibition of ROS. Expression of skin barrier components including filaggrin and hyaluronic acid synthase-1 was increased by Cs-ME and was modulated by ERK/p38-AP-1 signaling. Collectively, our data show that Cs-ME has cytoprotective and antiaging activity based on antioxidant properties. Furthermore, Cs-ME exerts skin barrier protective ability by regulating the AP-1 signaling pathway. Therefore, Cs-ME has the potential for use as an ingredient in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV irradiation, prevent photoaging, and strengthen the skin barrier.

Malonic Acid Isolated from Pinus densiflora Inhibits UVB-Induced Oxidative Stress and Inflammation in HaCaT Keratinocytes

Skin aging is caused by exposure to various external factors. Ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation induces oxidative stress, photoaging, and inflammation in skin cells. Pinus densiflora Sieb. et Zucc. (red pine) has various antimicrobial and antioxidant activities. However, the anti-inflammatory effects of red pine on skin have rarely been reported. The protective effects of malonic acid (MA) isolated from Pinus densiflora were investigated against UVB-induced damage in an immortalized human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT). MA increased levels of the antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase 1 (SOD-1) and heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1) via activation of nuclear factor-erythroid 2-related factor-2 (Nrf2), resulting in a reduction in UVB-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels. Additionally, the inhibition of ROS increased HaCaT cell survival rate. Thus, MA downregulated the expression of ROS-induced nuclear factor-κB, as well as inflammation-related cytokines (interleukin-6, cyclooxygenase-2, and tumor necrosis factor-α). Furthermore, MA significantly suppressed the mitogen-activated protein kinase/activator protein 1 signaling pathway and reduced the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs; MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9). In contrast, MA treatment increased the expression of collagen synthesis regulatory genes (COL1A1 and COL3A1) via regulation of Smad2/3 signal induction through transforming growth factor-β. In conclusion, MA protected against UVB-induced photoaging via suppression of skin inflammation and induction of collagen biosynthesis.

Effect of the Oral Administration of Common Evening Primrose Sprout (Oenothera biennis L.) Extract on Skin Function Improvement in UVB-irradiated Hairless Mice

Most of the studies on common evening primrose (Oenothera biennis L.) are focused on its oils (isolated from seed, root, and stem tissues). We aimed to investigate the effect of the oral administration of OBS-E on the improvement of skin function in skin-damaged hairless mice exposed to excessive ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation owing to the preliminary in vitro findings regarding the antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, and skin moisturizing activities of OBS-E. OBS-E administration for 14 weeks did not significantly affect the body weight or clinical signs. Significant reductions were observed in wrinkle parameters (area, number, length, and depth, and metalloproteinase levels) in OBS-E-administered mice compared with those in UVB-irradiated control mice. OBS-E significantly increased skin elasticity and hyaluronic acid content, but it significantly decreased transepidermal water loss. Histomorphometrical analysis revealed that OBS-E significantly reduced the epidermal thickness, area of the collagen-occupied region, and number of microfolds and inflammatory and mast cells. These results demonstrate that OBS-E can effectively enhance skin functions in terms of ameliorating wrinkle formation, promoting skin-moisturization, enhancing skin barrier function, and inhibiting inflammatory reactions. The obtained results provide good starting point for the continuation in the process of developing new inner beauty products based on OBS-E.

Protective effect of oral treatment with Cordia verbenacea extract against UVB irradiation deleterious effects in the skin of hairless mouse

Photochemoprotection of the skin can be achieved by inhibiting inflammation and oxidative stress, which we tested using Cordia verbenacea extract, a medicinal plant known for its rich content of antioxidant molecules and anti-inflammatory activity. In vitro antioxidant evaluation of Cordia verbenacea leaves ethanolic extract (CVE) presented the following results: ferric reducing antioxidant power (886.32 μM equivalent of Trolox/g extract); IC50 of 19.128 μg/ml for scavenging 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl; IC50 of 12.48 μg/mL for scavenging 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid); decrease of hydroperoxides from linoleic acid (IC50 of 10.20 μg/mL); inhibition of thiobarbituric acid reactive substances (IC50 8.90 μg/mL); iron-chelating ability in bathophenanthroline iron assay (IC50 47.35 μg/mL); chemiluminescence triggered by free radicals in the H2O2/horseradish peroxidase/luminol (IC50 0.286 μg/mL) and xanthine/xanthine oxidase/luminol (IC50 0.42 μg/mL) methods. CVE (10-100 mg per kg, 30 min before and immediately after UVB exposure) treatment was performed by gavage in hairless mice. CVE inhibited skin edema, neutrophil infiltration, and overproduction of MMP-9; reduced levels of TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL- 6; numbers of skin mast cells, epidermal thickening, number of epidermal apoptotic keratinocytes, and collagen degradation. CVE increased the skin's natural antioxidant defenses as observed by Nrf-2, NAD(P)H quinone oxidoreductase 1, and heme oxygenase 1 mRNA expression enhancement. Furthermore, CVE inhibited lipid peroxidation and superoxide anion production and recovered antioxidant reduced glutathione, catalase activity, and ROS scavenging capacity of the skin. Concluding, CVE downregulates the skin inflammatory and oxidative damages triggered by UVB, demonstrating its potentialities as a therapeutic approach.

Age-related decline in the taurine content of the skin in rodents

Taurine, a sulfur-containing amino acid, occurs at high concentrations in the skin, and plays a role in maintaining the homeostasis of the skin. We investigated the effects of aging on the content and localization of taurine in the skin of mice and rats. Taurine was extracted from the skin samples of hairless mice and Sprague Dawley rats, and the taurine content of the skin was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The results of the investigation revealed that the taurine content in both the dermis and epidermis of hairless mice declined significantly with age. Similar age-related decline in the skin taurine content was also observed in rats. In contrast, the taurine content in the sole remained unchanged with age. An immunohistochemical analysis also revealed a decreased skin taurine content in aged animals compared with younger animals, although no significant differences in the localization of taurine were observed between the two age groups. Supplementation of the drinking water of aged mice with 3% (w/v) taurine for 4 weeks increased the taurine content of the epidermis, but not the dermis. The present study showed for the first time that the taurine content of the skin decreased with age in mice and rats, which may be related to the impairment of the skin homeostasis observed with aging. The decreased taurine content of the epidermis in aged animals was able to be rescued by taurine supplementation.

Preventive Effects of Anthraquinones Isolated from an Endophytic Fungus, Colletotrichum sp. JS-0367 in Tumor Necrosis Factor-α-Stimulated Damage of Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are a major causative factor of inflammatory responses and extracellular matrix degradation. ROS also cause skin aging and diverse cutaneous lesions. Therefore, antioxidants that inhibit the generation of ROS may be beneficial in the relief of skin aging and diseases. We investigated the anti-skin aging effect of anthraquinones from cultures of Colletotrichum sp., an endophytic fungus isolated from Morus alba L. using human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). We preferentially evaluated the preventive effects of anti-oxidative anthraquinones (1, 4) against the generation of ROS, nitric oxide (NO), and prostaglandins-E₂ (PGE₂). Among them, 1,3-dihydroxy-2,8-dimethoxy-6-methylanthraquinone (1) suppressed the generation of ROS, NO, and PGE₂ in tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α)-stimulated HDFs. Compound 1 reversed the TNF-induced increase in matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and a decrease in procollagen I α1 (COLIA1). It also suppressed inducible NO synthase, cyclooxygenase-2, interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6, and IL-8, which upregulate inflammatory reactions. Mechanistically, compound 1 suppressed nuclear factor-κB, activator protein 1, and mitogen-activated protein kinases in TNF-α-stimulated HDFs. These results suggest that compound 1 may be beneficial for improving skin aging and diverse cutaneous lesions.

Acer tataricum subsp. ginnala Inhibits Skin Photoaging via Regulating MAPK/AP-1, NF-κB, and TGFβ/Smad Signaling in UVB-Irradiated Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Skin, the organ protecting the human body from external factors, maintains structural and tensile strength by containing many collagen fibrils, particularly type I procollagen. However, oxidative stress by ultraviolet (UV) exposure causes skin photoaging by activating collagen degradation and inhibiting collagen synthesis. Acer tataricum subsp. ginnala extract (AGE) is a herbal medicine with anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative effects, but there is no report on the protective effect against skin photoaging. Therefore, we conducted research concentrating on the anti-photoaging effect of Acer tataricum subsp. ginnala (AG) in UVB (20 mJ/cm²)-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Then, various concentrations (7.5, 15, 30 µg/mL) of AGE were treated in HDF for 24 h following UVB irradiation. After we performed AGE treatment, the matrix metalloproteinase1 (MMP1) expression was downregulated, and the type I procollagen level was recovered. Then, we investigated the mitogen-activated protein kinases/activator protein 1 (MAPK/AP-1) and nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB) pathway, which induce collagen breakdown by promoting the MMP1 level and pro-inflammatory cytokines. The results indicated that AGE downregulates the expression of the MAPK/AP-1 pathway, leading to MMP1 reduction. AGE inhibits nuclear translocation of NF-κB and inhibitor of nuclear factor-κB (IκB) degradation. Therefore, it downregulates the expression of MMP1 and pro-inflammatory cytokines such as TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6 increased by UVB. Besides, the TGFβ/Smad pathway, which is mainly responsible for the collagen synthesis in the skin, was also analyzed. AGE decreases the expression of Smad7 and increases TGFβRII expression and Smad3 phosphorylation. This means that AGE stimulates the TGFβ/Smad pathway that plays a critical role in promoting collagen synthesis. Thus, this study suggests that AGE can be a functional material with anti-photoaging properties.

Protective effect of a mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts on UV-induced photoaging in mice

UV irradiation exposure may induce photoaging of the skin tissue. Various plant extracts have been recognized as effective protectants against UV-induced damage. Here, a mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts was evaluated for its anti-photoaging effects as a potential nutraceutical product for skin health. Hexane extract of marigold and ethanolic extract of rosemary were prepared, and the formulated mixture was investigated. A UV-induced photoaged mouse model was prepared, and the protective effects of the extract mixture were compared with those of hyaluronic acid (positive control). Expression of various photoaging-related biomarkers such as matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), interleukins, tumor necrosis factor-alpha, procollagen type I, 8-hydroxy-deoxyguanosine, superoxide dismutase, glutathione peroxidase, and catalase were determined. UV irradiation significantly enhanced the expression of these biomarkers through an inflammatory response, however, the mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts exerted inhibitory effects and protected from UV-induced damage. Suppression of inflammatory response were the mechanisms underlying this protective function of the mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts. Histological evaluation also supported these protective effects against photoaging.

Chemical Composition of a Novel Distillate from Fermented Mixture of Nine Anti-Inflammatory Herbs and Its UVB-Protective Efficacy in Mouse Dorsal Skin via Attenuating Collagen Disruption and Inflammation

Since ancient times, various herbs have been used in Asia, including Korea, China, and Japan, for wound healing and antiaging of the skin. In this study, we manufactured and chemically analyzed a novel distillate obtained from a fermented mixture of nine anti-inflammatory herbs (Angelica gigas, Lonicera japonica, Dictamnus dasycarpus Turcz., D. opposita Thunb., Ulmus davidiana var. japonica, Hordeum vulgare var. hexastichon Aschers., Xanthium strumarium L., Cnidium officinale, and Houttuynia cordata Thunb.). The fermentation of natural plants possesses beneficial effects in living systems. These activities are attributed to the chemical conversion of the parent plants to functional constituents which show more potent biological activities. In our current study, the distillate has been manufactured after fermenting the nine oriental medical plants with Lactobacillus fermentum, followed by distilling. We analyzed the chemical ingredients involved in the distillate and evaluated the effects of topical application of the distillate on ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin damage in Institute of Cancer Research (ICR) mice. Topical application of the distillate significantly ameliorated the macroscopic and microscopic morphology of the dorsal skin against photodamage induced by UVB radiation. Additionally, our current results showed that topical application of the distillate alleviated collagen disruption and reduced levels of proinflammatory cytokines (tumor necrosis factor alpha and interleukin 1 β expressions) in the dorsal skin against UVB radiation. Taken together, our current findings suggest that the distillate has a potential to be used as a material to develop a photoprotective adjuvant.

Anti-Inflammatory and Photoaging-Protective Effects of Olea europaea through Inhibition of AP-1 and NF-[Formula: see text] B Pathways

Olea europaea is a beneficial edible plant with a number of biological activities like anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, antithrombic, antihyperglycemic, and anti-ischemic activities. The mechanisms behind the antiphotoaging and anti-inflammatory effects of Olea europaea are not fully understood. To investigate how an ethanol extract of Olea europaea (Oe-EE) exerts these effects, we explored its activities in human keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. We assessed the anti-oxidant effects of Oe-EE via 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2[Formula: see text]-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS) assays and measured the expression levels of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), cyclooxygenase-2, interleukin (IL)-6, tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-[Formula: see text], and moisturizing factors. Antiphotoaging and anti-inflammatory mechanisms of Oe-EE were explored by assessing signaling molecule activation via immunoblotting. Oe-EE treatment decreased the mRNA expression level of MMPs, cyclooxygenase-2, IL-6, and TNF-[Formula: see text] and restored type I collagen, filaggrin, and sirtuin 1 expression in UVB-irradiated cells. Furthermore, Oe-EE inhibited the activities of several activator protein 1 regulatory enzymes, including extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK), p38, and c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), and inhibited nuclear factor (NF)-[Formula: see text]B pathway signaling proteins. Therefore, our results indicate that Oe-EE has photoaging-protective and anti-inflammatory effects.

The molecular and physiological consequences of cold plasma treatment in murine skin and its barrier function

Cold plasma technology is an emerging tool facilitating the spatially controlled delivery of a multitude of reactive species (ROS) to the skin. While the therapeutic efficacy of plasma treatment has been observed in several types of diseases, the fundamental consequences of plasma-derived ROS on skin physiology remain unknown. We aimed to bridge this gap since the epidermal skin barrier and perfusion plays a vital role in health and disease by maintaining homeostasis and protecting from environmental damage. The intact skin of SKH1 mice was plasma-treated in vivo. Gene and protein expression was analyzed utilizing transcriptomics, qPCR, and Western blot. Immunofluorescence aided the analysis of percutaneous skin penetration of curcumin. Tissue oxygenation, perfusion, hemoglobin, and water index was investigated using hyperspectral imaging. Reversed-phase liquid-chromatography/mass spectrometry was performed for the identification of changes in the lipid composition and oxidation. Transcriptomic analysis of plasma-treated skin revealed modulation of genes involved in regulating the junctional network (tight, adherence, and gap junctions), which was confirmed using qPCR, Western blot, and immunofluorescence imaging. Plasma treatment increased the disaggregation of cells in the stratum corneum (SC) concomitant with increased tissue oxygenation, gap junctional intercellular communication, and penetration of the model drug curcumin into the SC preceded by altered oxidation of skin lipids and their composition in vivo. In summary, plasma-derived ROS modify the junctional network, which promoted tissue oxygenation, oxidation of SC-lipids, and restricted penetration of the model drug curcumin, implicating that plasma may provide a novel and sensitive tool of skin barrier regulation.

The emerging potential of cold atmospheric plasma in skin biology

The maintenance of skin integrity is crucial to ensure the physiological barrier against exogenous compounds, microorganisms and dehydration but also to fulfill social and aesthetic purposes. Besides the development of new actives intended to enter a formulation, innovative technologies based on physical principles have been proposed in the last years. Among them, Cold Atmospheric Plasma (CAP) technology, which already showed interesting results in dermatology, is currently being studied for its potential in skin treatments and cares. CAP bio-medical studies gather several different expertise ranging from physics to biology through chemistry and biochemistry, making this topic hard to pin. In this review we provide a broad survey of the interactions between CAP and skin. In the first section, we tried to give some fundamentals on skin structure and physiology, related to its essential functions, together with the main bases on cold plasma and its physicochemical properties. In the following parts we dissected and analyzed each CAP parameter to highlight the already known and the possible effects they can play on skin. This overview aims to get an idea of the potential of cold atmospheric plasma technology in skin biology for the future developments of dermo-cosmetic treatments, for example in aging prevention.

Enhanced antioxidant properties of sericin-cecropin fusion protein against oxidative stress in human adult dermal fibroblasts

Chronic exposure to UVB radiation causes photoaging, immunosuppression, and ultimately photocarcinogenisis through the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The ability of natural compounds in neutralizing the effects of oxidative stress is being explored with increased interest. Silk sericin, a biopolymer is reported to have diverse biological properties. In an effort to make the silk sericin pure, more effective and multifunctional, we have recombinantly expressed both functional sericin as well as sericin-cecropin B fusion proteins. Herein, we studied the antioxidant and anti-UVB potential of recombinant sericin and sericin-cecropin B proteins against oxidative stress using human primary dermal fibroblast cells. Treating the cells with recombinant sericin (RS) or sericin-cecropin B (RSC) prior to exposure to UVB and H2O2, effectively increased the cell viability by approximately 30% and 50%, respectively, in comparison to non-treated control. The protective effects were further evident in terms of significant reduction of LDH in oxidatively challenged cells treated with RS and RSC. A reduction in LDH release of at least 16 and 33% was observed with RS and RSC treatments, respectively, in comparison to exposed control. Further, elevated levels of catalase and superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity were observed. Importantly, the RSC fusion protein exhibited enhanced protective effects than cells treated with RS alone. Our results demonstrate that the functional attributes of cecropin B along with sericin activity in the fusion protein conferred enhanced protection against UVB- and H2O2-induced oxidative damage in human dermal fibroblasts. The improved antioxidant activity of recombinant sericin fusion biopolymer has great potential as a promising therapeutic agent for ROS-induced skin diseases.

Comparison of the scavenging capacities of phloroglucinol and 2,4,6-trihydroxypyridine towards HO˙ radical: a computational study

In this work the scavenging capacities of biologically active phloroglucinol (1,3,5-trihydroxybenzene, THB-OH) and structurally similar 2,4,6-trihydroxypyridine (THP-OH) towards HO˙ were examined. This task was realized by means of density functional theory, through investigation of all favorable antioxidative pathways in two solvents of different polarity: benzene and water. It was found that in benzene both compounds conform to the hydrogen atom transfer (HAT) and radical adduct formation (RAF) mechanisms. In water, the mechanisms of antioxidative action of the investigated compounds are far more complex, especially those of THB-OH. This compound and HO˙ undergo all four investigated mechanisms: HAT, RAF, sequential proton loss electron transfer (SPLET), and single electron transfer-proton transfer (SET-PT). HAT, RAF and SPLET are operative mechanisms in the case of THP-OH. Independently of solvent polarity, both investigated compounds are more reactive towards HO˙ in comparison to Trolox. Our final remark is as follows: the electron-withdrawing effect of the nitrogen is stronger than the electron-donating effect of the OH groups in the molecule of THP-OH. As a consequence, THB-OH is more powerful antioxidant than THP-OH, thus implying that the presence of nitrogen decreases the scavenging capacity of the respective compound.

Application of adipose-derived stem cells in photoaging: basic science and literature review

Photoaging is mainly induced by continuous exposure to sun light, causing multiple unwanted skin characters and accelerating skin aging. Adipose-derived stem cells(ADSCs) are promising in supporting skin repair because of their significant antioxidant capacity and strong proliferation, differentiation, and migration ability, as well as their enriched secretome containing various growth factors and cytokines. The identification of the mechanisms by which ADSCs perform these functions for photoaging has great potential to explore therapeutic applications and combat skin aging. We also review the basic mechanisms of UV-induced skin aging and recent improvement in pre-clinical applications of ADSCs associated with photoaging. Results showed that ADSCs are potential to address photoaging problem and might treat skin cancer. Compared with ADSCs alone, the secretome-based approaches and different preconditionings of ADSCs are more promising to overcome the current limitations and enhance the anti-photoaging capacity.

2,4-Dihydroxyphenyl-benzo[d]thiazole (MHY553), a synthetic PPARα agonist, decreases age-associated inflammatory responses through PPARα activation and RS scavenging in the skin

We previously reported that 2,4-dihydroxyphenyl-benzo[d]thiazole (MHY553) is a PPARα agonist, which has been shown to inhibit tyrosinase activity in murine melanocyte and alleviate hepatic steatosis in aged rats. This study investigated the effects of MHY553 on the age-related occurrence of inflammatory responses via the molecular modulation of the nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB) signaling pathway in the skin of aged rats and skin fibroblast cells. Moreover, we investigated the antioxidant effect of MHY553 via in vitro assays of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and peroxynitrite (ONOO^-) scavenging activities. We also scrutinized the ability of MHY553 as a PPARα activator in aged rat skin and H₂O₂-induced Hs27 fibroblast cells. In vivo experiments were performed in young, aged, and MHY553-fed aged rats (3 mg or 5 mg∙kg ^-1∙day ^-1 for 4 weeks). MHY553 dose-dependently scavenged ROS and ONOO^-. Furthermore, we found that MHY553 suppressed the NF-κB transcription factor and downregulated mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein-1 (AP-1) signaling. MHY553 also inhibited the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines including COX-2, iNOS, IL-1β, and IL-6. Our findings indicate the MHY553 scavenges ROS/reactive nitrogen species and inhibits inflammatory cytokines through PPARα activation in the skin. Thus, these results suggest that MHY553 may be of therapeutic interest for protecting skin from oxidative stress-induced damage and intrinsic aging.

Synthesis of Kisspeptin-Mimicking Fragments and Investigation of their Skin Anti-Aging Effects

In recent years, a number of active materials have been developed to provide anti-aging benefits for skin and, among them, peptides have been considered the most promising candidate due to their remarkable and long-lasting anti-wrinkle activity. Recent studies have begun to elucidate the relationship between the secretion of emotion-related hormones and skin aging. Kisspeptin, a neuropeptide encoded by the KISS1 gene, has gained attention in reproductive endocrinology since it stimulates the reproductive axis in the hypothalamus; however, the effects of Kisspeptin on skin have not been studied yet. In this study, we synthesized Kisspeptin-10 and Kisspeptin-E, which are biologically active fragments, to mimic the action of Kisspeptin. Next, we demonstrated the anti-aging effects of the Kisspeptin-mimicking fragments using UV-induced skin aging models, such as UV-induced human dermal fibroblasts (Hs68) and human skin explants. Kisspeptin-E suppressed UV-induced 11 beta-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1 (11β-HSD1) stimulation leading to a regulation of skin aging related genes, including type I procollagen, matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1), interleukin-6 (IL-6), and IL-8, and rescued the skin integrity. Taken together, these results suggest that Kisspeptin-E could be useful to improve UV-induced skin aging by modulating expression of stress related genes, such as 11β-HSD1.

Melaleuca leucadendron (L.) L. flower extract exhibits antioxidant and photoprotective activities in human keratinocytes exposed to ultraviolet B radiation

Recently, there has been a demand for the replacement of chemical sunscreens with natural compounds that could prevent or restore UV-induced skin damage. Here, we investigated the photoprotective influence of the Melaleuca leucadendron ethanolic flower extract (EEMec) on factors involved in cellular and molecular UVB-induced oxidative stress in human skin keratinocytes (HaCaT). The phytochemical constituents, antioxidant potential by DPPH assay, content of total phenolic and flavonoid compounds in EEMec were evaluated. HaCaT cells were treated with EEMec followed by irradiation with UVB. CAT activity; GSH and ROS levels; and SOD1, GPx, CAT and COX-2 expression assays were employed to verify the oxidative stress, as well as EEMec effect on transmembrane transport, and pro-inflammatory and pro-apoptotic protein expression. EEMec reverted the viability loss of HaCaT cells after irradiation with UVB, exhibited significant antioxidant capacity and free radical scavenging activity in vitro, inhibited COX-2 expression and ensure protection of DNA-damage. EEMec shown a great photoprotective property to prevent keratinocytes damage induced by UV radiation and, thus a candidate potential to application as an adjuvant in sunscreen formulations as a strategy to reduce risk of sunburn and prevent skin diseases associated with UV-induced inflammation and cancer.

Recent Advances Regarding the Phytochemical and Therapeutic Uses of Populus nigra L. Buds

Populus nigra L. (Salicaceae family) is one of the most popular trees that can be found in deciduous forests. Some particularities that characterize the Populus genus refer to the fact that it includes more than 40 species, being widespread especially in Europe and Asia. Many residues, parts of this tree can be used as a bioresource for different extracts as active ingredients in pharmaceuticals next to multiple benefits in many areas of medicine. The present review discusses the latest findings regarding the phytochemical composition and the therapeutic properties of Populus nigra L. buds. The vegetal product has been described mainly to contain phenolic compounds (phenols, phenolic acids and phenylpropanoids), terpenoids (mono and sesquiterpenoids), flavones (e.g., apigenol and crysin), flavanones (e.g., pinocembrin and pinostrombin), caffeic/ferulic acids and their derivates, and more than 48 phytocompounds in the essential oils. The resinous exudates present on the buds have been the major plant source used by bees to form propolis. Several studies depicted its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal, antidiabetic, antitumor, hepatoprotective, hypouricemic properties and its effects on melanin production. All these lead to the conclusion that black poplar buds are a valuable and important source of bioactive compounds responsible for a wide range of therapeutic uses, being a promising candidate as a complementary and/or alternative source for a large number of health problems. The aim of the review is to gather the existing information and to bring an up to date regarding the phytochemical and therapeutic uses of Populus nigra L. buds.

Red Carrot Cells Cultured in vitro Are Effective, Stable, and Safe Ingredients for Skin Care, Nutraceutical, and Food Applications

Plant biomasses growing in bioreactor could be developed as production systems for cosmetic ingredients, nutraceuticals and food additives. We previously reported that the red carrot cell line R4G accumulates high levels of anthocyanins, which are potent antioxidants with multiple health-promoting properties. To investigate the industrial potential of this cell line in detail, we tested extract for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in the mouse monocyte/macrophage cell-line J774A.1 and in reconstructed skin tissue models. We also compared the R4G extract to commercial carrot extracts in terms of stability and metabolomic profiles. We found that the R4G extract have potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, protecting mammalian cells from the oxidative stress triggered by exposure to bacterial lipopolysaccharides and H₂O₂. The extract also inhibited the nuclear translocation of NF-κB in an epidermal skin model, and induced the expression of VEGF-A to promote the microcirculation in a dermal microtissue model. The anthocyanins extracted from R4G cells were significantly more stable than those found in natural red carrot extracts. Finally, we showed that R4G extract has similar metabolomic profile of natural extracts by using a combination of targeted and untargeted metabolomics analysis, demonstrating the safety of R4G carrot cells for applications in the nutraceutical and food/feed industries.

Potential Anti-Skin Aging Effect of (-)-Catechin Isolated from the Root Bark of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica in Tumor Necrosis Factor-α-Stimulated Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are generated during skin aging, including intrinsic (chronologic aging) and extrinsic aging (photoaging). Therefore, antioxidants that inhibit ROS generation can delay skin aging. In this study, we evaluated the potential anti-skin aging effect of (-)-phenolic compounds isolated from the root bark of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica. We preferentially investigated the possible preventive effects of isolates against the degradation of skin extracellular matrix. Among the isolates, (-)-catechin suppressed the activity of collagenase MMP-1, and reversed the degradation of collagen induced by tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) in normal human dermal fibroblast. This action mechanism of (-)-catechin was validated by the suppression of tumor necrosis factor-α-induced accumulation of ROS and activation of mitogen-activated protein kinases, protein kinase B (Akt), and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2). The proinflammatory cytokines upregulate inflammatory reactions, and ultimately promote aging-related reactions. In this milieu, we demonstrated that (-)-catechin decreased the expression and secretion of proinflammatory cytokines, including interleukin (IL)-1β and IL-6. In conclusion, (-)-catechin is a candidate to ameliorate both intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging.