The skin aging exposome

Skin Aging, Cellular Senescence and Natural Polyphenols

The skin, being the barrier organ of the body, is constitutively exposed to various stimuli impacting its morphology and function. Senescent cells have been found to accumulate with age and may contribute to age-related skin changes and pathologies. Natural polyphenols exert many health benefits, including ameliorative effects on skin aging. By affecting molecular pathways of senescence, polyphenols are able to prevent or delay the senescence formation and, consequently, avoid or ameliorate aging and age-associated pathologies of the skin. This review aims to provide an overview of the current state of knowledge in skin aging and cellular senescence, and to summarize the recent in vitro studies related to the anti-senescent mechanisms of natural polyphenols carried out on keratinocytes, melanocytes and fibroblasts. Aged skin in the context of the COVID-19 pandemic will be also discussed.

Defining skin aging and its risk factors: a systematic review and meta-analysis

Skin aging has been defined to encompass both intrinsic and extrinsic aging, with extrinsic aging effected by environmental influences and overlaying the effects of chronological aging. The risk factors of skin aging have been studied previously, using methods of quantifying skin aging. However, these studies have yet to be reviewed. To better understand skin aging risk factors and collate the available data, we aimed to conduct a systematic review and meta-analysis. We conducted our systematic review in compliance with Preferred Reporting Item for Systematic Review and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) guidelines. Embase, PubMed and Web of Science databases were searched in October 2020 using specific search strategies. Where odds ratios were reported, meta-analyses were conducted using the random effects model. Otherwise, significant factors were reported in this review. We identified seven notable risk factors for various skin aging phenotypes: age, gender, ethnicity, air pollution, nutrition, smoking, sun exposure. This review's results will guide future works, such as those aiming to examine the interaction between genetic and environmental influences.

How good is the evidence that cellular senescence causes skin ageing?

Skin is the largest organ of the body with important protective functions, which become compromised with time due to both intrinsic and extrinsic ageing processes. Cellular senescence is the primary ageing process at cell level, associated with loss of proliferative capacity, mitochondrial dysfunction and significantly altered patterns of expression and secretion of bioactive molecules. Intervention experiments have proven cell senescence as a relevant cause of ageing in many organs. In case of skin, accumulation of senescence in all major compartments with ageing is well documented and might be responsible for most, if not all, the molecular changes observed during ageing. Incorporation of senescent cells into in-vitro skin models (specifically 3D full thickness models) recapitulates changes typically associated with skin ageing. However, crucial evidence is still missing. A beneficial effect of senescent cell ablation on skin ageing has so far only been shown following rather unspecific interventions or in transgenic mouse models. We conclude that evidence for cellular senescence as a relevant cause of intrinsic skin ageing is highly suggestive but not yet completely conclusive.

The skin redoxome

Redoxome is the network of redox reactions and redox active species (ReAS) that affect the homeostasis of cells and tissues. Due to the intense and constant interaction with external agents, the human skin has a robust redox signalling framework with specific pathways and magnitudes. The establishment of the skin redoxome concept is key to expanding knowledge of skin disorders and establishing better strategies for their prevention and treatment. This review starts with its definition and progress to propose how the master redox regulators are maintained and activated in the different conditions experienced by the skin and how the lack of redox regulation is involved in the accumulation of several oxidation end products that are correlated with various skin disorders.

The anti-wrinkles properties of sodium acetylated hyaluronate

BACKGROUND

Intrinsic aging promotes wrinkles formation by an imbalance between matrix synthesis/degradation in favor of degradation. This is accelerated by the exposome leading to overproduction of protease and fewer remodeling.

OBJECTIVE

Protecting the integrity of extracellular matrix appears as the most efficient anti-aging solution. We developed a grafted HA specifically designed to get anti-aging property due to a specific molecular weight and acetylation degree.

METHODS

A transcriptomic analysis was performed on fibroblasts, followed by a measurement of MMP secretion and subsequent effect on collagen degradation. MMP expression in skin explants concerned by chronobiological and extrinsic aging was analyzed by immunostaining. A clinical study was conducted on volunteers presenting wrinkles on face to evaluate flash reduction of wrinkles after 6 h of application by profilometry and anti-aging efficacy after 2 months by VISIA^® CR2.3.

RESULTS

Transcriptomic analysis evidenced an inhibition of MMP gene expression with acetylated HA, confirmed by an inhibition of MMPs release by fibroblasts, and a protection of type I collagen against degradation. We confirmed the reduction of MMPs in mature skin and in skin explants exposed to UV and urban dust. We demonstrated during clinical studies the flash reduction effect of acetylated HA on crow's feet wrinkles and a filling of nasogenian areas 6 h after application, and a wrinkles number reduction on nasogenian area up to 2 months of application.

CONCLUSION

We developed a new grafted HA owing protective properties against ECM degradation induced by chronobiological and extrinsic aging, leading to a significant and efficient anti-wrinkles effect.

Cigarettes, a skin killer! Cigarette smoke may cause ferroptosis in female skin

INTRODUCTION

Skin exposure to tobacco smoke is closely related to skin aging. Ferroptosis is an iron-dependent form of regulated cell death driven by the accumulation of lipid peroxides to levels sufficient to trigger cell death. However, few studies have examined ferroptosis in skin-related diseases.

METHODS

This study searched for differentially expressed genes by analyzing gene expression data downloaded from the Gene Expression Omnibus. Ferroptosis-related genes were obtained by analyzing the FerrDb database. We also investigated the regulatory mechanism of ferroptosis-related genes by enrichment analysis and constructing gene-miRNA and gene-transcription factor networks.

RESULTS

Based on these analyses, exposure to cigarette smoke can cause ferroptosis in female skin. Ferroptosis-associated genes might be regulated by 17 miRNAs and 20 TFs.

CONCLUSION

Finally, we found ferroptosis in the skin of women exposed to cigarette smoke, and the results provide an important theoretical basis for future research and anti-aging treatment of skin.

β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide (NMN) Administrated by Intraperitoneal Injection Mediates Protection Against UVB-Induced Skin Damage in Mice

Objective

Ultraviolet light is an important environmental factor that induces skin oxidation, inflammation, and other diseases. Nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN) has the effect of anti-oxidation and improving various physiological processes. This study explores the protective effect of NMN monomers given via intraperitoneal injection on UVB-induced photodamage.

Methods

We used a murine model of UVB-induced photodamage to evaluate the effect of an NMN monomer on photoaging skin by assessing skin and liver tissue sections, serum and skin oxidative stress levels, inflammatory markers, mRNA expression, and protein expression of skin- and liver-related genes.

Results

The results showed that NMN treatment blocked UVB-induced photodamage in mice, maintaining normal structure and amount of collagen fibers, normal thickness of epidermis and dermis, reducing the production of mast cells, and maintaining complete organized skin structure. NMN intraperitoneal injection also maintained the normal morphology of the mouse liver after UVB exposure. Meanwhile, NMN intraperitoneal injection was found to increase antioxidant ability and regulate the proinflammatory response of the skin and liver to UVB irradiation by enhancing the activity of antioxidant enzymes, release of anti-inflammatory cytokines, reduction of hydrogen peroxide production (H₂O₂), and decreased inflammatory cytokines. Furthermore, RT-qPCR results indicated that NMN reduced oxidative stress of skin and liver by promoting the activation of the AMP-activated protein kinase (AMPK) signaling pathway and further increasing the expression of downstream antioxidant genes of AMPK. RT-qPCR results also revealed that NMN treatment could downregulate the mRNA expression of interleukin (IL)-6, interleukin (IL)-1β, and tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α, and upregulate NF-kappa-B inhibitor-α (IκB-α) and interleukin (IL)-10 by inhibiting the activation of nuclear factor-κBp65 (NFκB-p65). Finally, NMN upregulated AMPK, IκB-α, SOD1, and CAT in the skin and downregulated NF-κBp65 protein expression, which is in line with the RT-qPCR results.

Conclusion

Based on the above results, NMN monomer treatment with intraperitoneal injection also block the photodamage caused by UVB irradiation in mice by regulating the oxidative stress response and inflammatory response.

Olive leaf-derived PPAR agonist complex induces collagen IV synthesis in human skin models

Introduction

Peroxisome proliferator‐activated receptor (PPAR) agonists are known to modulate the synthesis of dermal lipids and proteins including collagens. Olive (Olea europaea) leaves have been reported to contain PPAR‐binding ligands. Collagen IV, a major dermal‐epidermal junction (DEJ) protein, degrades with both age and disease. Here, we report the formulation of a novel multi‐ligand complex, Linefade, and its effects on collagen IV synthesis.

Methods

Linefade prepared from the leaves of Olea europaea contains 2% w/w plant extract solids dissolved in a mixture of glyceryl monoricinoleate and dimethyl isosorbide. In silico docking was performed with PPAR‐α (PDB ID: 2P54). Linefade was evaluated for PPAR‐α‐dependent transcription in a luciferase reporter assay system. Cell viability and collagen IV levels in human dermal fibroblast cultures were measured using the MTT method and ELISA assay, respectively. Transcriptome analysis was conducted on a full‐thickness reconstituted human skin (EpiDermFT) model. Ex vivo cell viability and collagen IV immunostaining were performed on human skin explants.

Results

In silico docking model of the major constituents (oleanolic acid and glyceryl monoricinoleate) produced a co‐binding affinity of −6.7 Kcal/mole. Linefade significantly increased PPAR‐α transcriptional activity in CHO cells and collagen IV synthesis in adult human dermal fibroblasts. Transcriptome analysis revealed that 1% Linefade modulated the expression of 280 genes with some related to epidermal differentiation, DEJ, PPAR, Nrf2 and retinoid pathways. An ex vivo human explant study showed that 1% Linefade, delivered via a triglycerides excipient, increased collagen IV levels along the dermal–epidermal junction by 52%.

Conclusion

In silico modelling and in vitro and ex vivo analyses confirmed Linefade‐mediated activation of PPAR‐α and stimulation of collagen IV synthesis.

Treating Aging Changes of Facial Anatomical Layers with Hyaluronic Acid Fillers

The aging process affects every anatomical layer of the face. Improved knowledge of how aging occurs in each anatomical layer of the face has helped evolve the facial rejuvenation strategies with HA fillers. Understanding the age-related changes in the anatomical facial layers, including their time of onset and how the changes occur in the different tissue layers, an injector can provide much more targeted and refined HA filler treatments. As fillers’ use has increased, there has been a distinct shift away from procedures lifting the skin and SMAS. We can selectively target the anatomical facial layers with HA fillers for more refined and predictable outcomes. An extensive range of HA filler variants is now available. Each filler type is optimized and designed to be injected into specific tissue planes for the best results. Knowing the predictable aging changes in the different tissue layers of the face is crucial as this guides the optimum filler choice. Working knowledge of the individual characteristics of the numerous HA-based products allows for their effective placement in the correct layer. Familiarity with the correct HA product may also help to minimize the downtime and risk of adverse events.

Effects of tobacco and vaping on the skin

Cigarette and electronic cigarette use are significant public health concerns across the United States. Tobacco use remains the single most preventable cause of morbidity and mortality in the world. Electronic cigarettes initially emerged as a better alternative to conventional cigarettes and for promoting smoking cessation; however, current evidence reveals similar deleterious health implications caused by both products on almost all organ systems, including the skin. Recognition of the cutaneous manifestations associated with cigarette and electronic cigarette use is essential for dermatologists in current clinical practice. Dermatologists play a vital role in educating and counseling patients on smoking cessation. We specifically highlight the cutaneous consequences of conventional cigarette smoking and electronic cigarettes on dermatologic disease.

The Impact of Vitamin D on Skin Aging

The active metabolites of vitamin D₃ (D₃) and lumisterol (L₃) exert a variety of antiaging and photoprotective effects on the skin. These are achieved through immunomodulation and include anti-inflammatory actions, regulation of keratinocytes proliferation, and differentiation programs to build the epidermal barrier necessary for maintaining skin homeostasis. In addition, they induce antioxidative responses, inhibit DNA damage and induce DNA repair mechanisms to attenuate premature skin aging and cancerogenesis. The mechanism of action would involve interaction with multiple nuclear receptors including VDR, AhR, LXR, reverse agonism on RORα and -γ, and nongenomic actions through 1,25D₃-MARRS receptor and interaction with the nongenomic binding site of the VDR. Therefore, active forms of vitamin D₃ including its canonical (1,25(OH)₂D₃) and noncanonical (CYP11A1-intitated) D₃ derivatives as well as L₃ derivatives are promising agents for the prevention, attenuation, or treatment of premature skin aging. They could be administrated orally and/or topically. Other forms of parenteral application of vitamin D₃ precursor should be considered to avoid its predominant metabolism to 25(OH)D₃ that is not recognized by CYP11A1 enzyme. The efficacy of topically applied vitamin D₃ and L₃ derivatives needs further clinical evaluation in future trials.

Age Differences in Multimodal Quantitative Sensory Testing and Associations With Brain Volume

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVES

Somatosensory function is critical for successful aging. Prior studies have shown declines in somatosensory function with age; however, this may be affected by testing site, modality, and biobehavioral factors. While somatosensory function declines are associated with peripheral nervous system degradation, little is known regarding correlates with the central nervous system and brain structure in particular. The objectives of this study were to examine age-related declines in somatosensory function using innocuous and noxious stimuli, across 2 anatomical testing sites, with considerations for affect and cognitive function, and associations between somatosensory function and brain structure in older adults.

RESEARCH DESIGN AND METHODS

A cross-sectional analysis included 84 "younger" (n = 22, age range: 19-24 years) and "older" (n = 62, age range: 60-94 years) healthy adults who participated in the Neuromodulatory Examination of Pain and Mobility Across the Lifespan study. Participants were assessed on measures of somatosensory function (quantitative sensory testing), at 2 sites (metatarsal and thenar) using standardized procedures, and completed cognitive and psychological function measures and structural magnetic resonance imaging.

RESULTS

Significant age × test site interaction effects were observed for warmth detection (p = .018,η p 2 = 0.10) and heat pain thresholds (p = .014,η p 2 = 0.12). Main age effects were observed for mechanical, vibratory, cold, and warmth detection thresholds (ps < .05), with older adults displaying a loss of sensory function. Significant associations between somatosensory function and brain gray matter structure emerged in the right occipital region, the right temporal region, and the left pericallosum.

DISCUSSION AND IMPLICATIONS

Our findings indicate healthy older adults display alterations in sensory responses to innocuous and noxious stimuli compared to younger adults and, furthermore, these alterations are uniquely affected by anatomical site. These findings suggest a nonuniform decline in somatosensation in older adults, which may represent peripheral and central nervous system alterations part of aging processes.

Particulate matter-induced atmospheric skin aging is aggravated by UVA and inhibited by a topical l-ascorbic acid compound

Ambient particulate matter (PM) is a major contributor to environmental air pollution-associated skin damage. However, most published studies are observational or epidemiologic and have not mechanistically investigated the effects of air pollutants on cellular senescence and aging, particularly in combination with ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Herein, we analyzed whether UVA aggravates the PM-induced inflammatory cascade, which contributes to the aging of skin-derived cells. We hypothesized that cellular senescence is involved in PM&UVA-induced aging and tested whether an l-ascorbic acid compound (LAC), containing vitamin E and ferulic acid, can inhibit PM&UVA-induced aging. PM&UVA-exposed HDFs showed further elevated reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels detected by flow cytometry. We then demonstrated that PM induces MAPK signaling activation and the expression of AhR and NF-κB, responses that are both exacerbated by UVA. The levels of inflammatory cytokines, IL-1β and IL-6, were significantly higher in the PM&UVA-exposed group which resulted in increased transcription of MMPs, causing downregulation of type I collagen. Meanwhile, treatment with LAC reduced the levels of ROS and inflammatory cytokines. Additionally, PM&UVA-induced SA-β-gal production (staining assay) was reduced by LAC. These findings suggest a role of atmospheric pollution and UVA radiation in cellular senescence induction. Our findings also suggest a possible role of AhR inhibition by topical antioxidants to prevent atmospheric pollution-induced skin aging.

Understanding Facial Muscle Aging: A Surface Electromyography Study

BACKGROUND

Facial aging is a multifactorial process that involves all tissues of the face, including skin, muscles, fat, ligaments, and bone. Whereas robust evidence is available for age-related changes of bone and facial fat, the influence of age on facial muscle activity is poorly understood.

OBJECTIVES

The objective of this study was to investigate the motor unit action potential of facial muscles by utilizing surface-derived, noninvasive electromyography in young and old healthy volunteers.

METHODS

The study investigated a total of 32 healthy volunteers with a mean [standard deviation] age of 42.6 [19.6] years (range, 21-82 years) and a mean BMI of 23.9 [2.7] kg/m2 (range, 18.5-29.7 kg/m2) by performing surface-derived, noninvasive facial electromyography. Nine facial muscles were investigated bilaterally, resulting in a total of 1632 measurements of the signal, baseline noise, and signal-to-noise ratio of these muscles.

RESULTS

The results of the study revealed that age does not significantly influence the signal (P = 0.234), the baseline noise (P = 0.225), or the signal-to-noise ratio (P = 0.432) of younger individuals (<30 years) vs older individuals (>50 years) in a gender- and BMI-matched statistical model. Exceptions were the zygomaticus major muscle (reduced activity), procerus muscle (increased activity), and corrugator supercilii muscle (increased activity).

CONCLUSIONS

The results of this facial electromyography study may help to increase the understanding of facial aging. Future studies need to reproduce the results presented herein to further increase our understanding of facial aging.

Oral Supplementation with Hydrolyzed Fish Cartilage Improves the Morphological and Structural Characteristics of the Skin: A Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study

Collagen and its peptides are natural ingredients used in food supplements and nutricosmetics with the claim of providing benefits for skin health and beauty. In this context, the aim of the present study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of oral supplementation with hydrolyzed fish cartilage for the improvement of chronological and photoaging-induced skin changes. A total of 46 healthy females aged 45 to 59 years were enrolled and divided into two groups: G1-placebo and G2-oral treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage. Measurements of skin wrinkles, dermis echogenicity and thickness, and morphological and structural characteristics of the skin were performed in the nasolabial region of the face before and after a 90-day period of treatment using high-resolution imaging, ultrasound, and reflectance confocal microscopy image analyses. A significant reduction in wrinkles and an increase of dermis echogenicity were observed after a 90-day period of treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage compared to the placebo and baseline values. In addition, reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) image analysis showed improved collagen morphology and reduced elastosis after treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage. The present study showed the clinical benefits for the skin obtained with oral supplementation with a low dose of collagen peptides from hydrolyzed fish cartilage.

Advancing our understanding of neuropathic pain in diabetes mellitus using conditioned pain modulation: further considerations for age and testing site

ABSTRACT

Neuropathy is common among individuals with diabetes mellitus, and is associated with decreased quality of life, greater comorbidity, and substantial economic burden. However, the mechanisms underlying painful diabetic polyneuropathy has yet to be fully elucidated. While it is recognized that diabetic polyneuropathy places patients at a greater risk for developing neuropathic pain, it is still not clear why some individuals develop pain and others do not. Similar to other chronic pain conditions, painful diabetic neuropathy is likely driven by alterations in both the peripheral and central nervous system. Experimental conditioned pain modulation paradigms have contributed substantially to our current understanding of chronic pain across various disease states. In a new study, researchers have extended this work by examining the efficiency of conditioned pain modulation in patients with painful and non-painful diabetic polyneuropathy. Surprisingly, the results indicate individuals with painful neuropathy experience greater endogenous pain inhibition, which may seem counterintuitive at first blush. Here, we discuss potential explanations and directions for future research, including consideration for age effects, testing site, and disease type, with the goal of further advancing this important line of research.

Towards Optimal pH of the Skin and Topical Formulations: From the Current State of the Art to Tailored Products

Acidic pH of the skin surface has been recognized as a regulating factor for the maintenance of the stratum corneum homeostasis and barrier permeability. The most important functions of acidic pH seem to be related to the keratinocyte differentiation process, the formation and function of epidermal lipids and the corneocyte lipid envelope, the maintenance of the skin microbiome and, consequently, skin disturbances and diseases. As acknowledged extrinsic factors that affect skin pH, topically applied products could contribute to skin health maintenance via skin pH value control. The obtained knowledge on skins’ pH could be used in the formulation of more effective topical products, which would add to the development of the so-called products ‘for skin health maintenance’. There is a high level of agreement that topical products should be acidified and possess pH in the range of 4 to 6. However, formulators, dermatologists and consumers would benefit from some more precise guidance concerning favorable products pH values and the selection of cosmetic ingredients which could be responsible for acidification, together with a more extensive understanding of the mechanisms underlaying the process of skin acidification by topical products.

Effects of ozone on stratum corneum lipid integrity and assembly

The stratum corneum (SC) acts as the main barrier of the skin against exogenous substances (e.g. air pollutants) and against the loss of endogenous substances such as water. The SC consists of keratin-rich dead cells surrounded by crystalline lamellar lipid regions. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFAs), and cholesterol (CHOL). Tropospheric ozone (O₃) is a potent oxidant compound that reacts instantly with biological molecules such as lipids and proteins. Although it has been reported that O₃ induces biological responses at the cellular level, to the best of our knowledge, there is no information related to the damages O₃ can cause at the level of the SC extracellular lipid matrix. The aim of our work was to investigate which SC lipid subclasses are prone to oxidation when exposed to O₃ and how the changes in chemical structures affect the lipid organization in a stratum corneum substitute (SCS) membrane. Ultimately the barrier properties of the SCS were examined. Our studies reveal that O₃ induces chemical modifications of the unsaturated bonds in CERs and CHOL. The appearance of carbonyl groups at the headgroup level and the removal of the linoleate moiety of omega acylceramides (CER EOS) impact the lamellar organization of the lipid assembly and to a lesser extent the lateral packing of the lipids. Unexpectedly, the modifications improved the barrier function of the SCS.

A split-face study evaluating the efficacy of a topical antioxidant cream containing tocotrienol after 1064-nm picosecond Nd:YAG laser treatment for environment-induced skin pigmentation

Background This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of a topical antioxidant cream containing tocotrienol after 1064-nm picosecond neodymium-doped yttrium aluminum garnet (Nd:YAG) laser treatment for environment-induced skin pigmentation.Methods A split-face study was conducted between December 2020 and March 2021 in 26 patients (25 women and one man) who were treated with a 1064-nm picosecond Nd:YAG laser. On the right side of the face, an antioxidant cream containing tocotrienol was applied after picosecond laser treatment, and on the left side, only picosecond laser treatment was performed. We compared the right and left sides of the face at 4 weeks after laser treatment using an automatic skin analysis device to investigate skin pigmentation. The melasma severity scores of the two sides were evaluated before and 4 weeks after picosecond laser treatment.Results The skin pigmentation score showed a significant difference between pretreatment and 4 weeks after picosecond laser treatment on both sides of the face (P<0.001), and there was a significant difference in skin pigmentation score improvement between the right and left sides (P<0.001). The melasma severity score showed a significant difference on the right side between pretreatment and 4 weeks after laser treatment (P<0.001), but there was no significant change on the left side (P>0.05).Conclusions Our results show that, for the treatment of environment-induced skin pigmentation, the application of a tocotrienol-containing antioxidant cream after 1064-nm picosecond laser treatment can provide good results without any complications.

Oxidative stress in the skin: Impact and related protection

Skin, our first interface to the external environment, is subjected to oxidative stress caused by a variety of factors such as solar ultraviolet, infrared and visible light, environmental pollution, including ozone and particulate matters, and psychological stress. Excessive reactive species, including reactive oxygen species and reactive nitrogen species, exacerbate skin pigmentation and aging, which further lead to skin tone unevenness, pigmentary disorder, skin roughness and wrinkles. Besides these, skin microbiota are also a very important factor ensuring the proper functions of skin. While environmental factors such as UV and pollutants impact skin microbiota compositions, skin dysbiosis results in various skin conditions. In this review, we summarize the generation of oxidative stress from exogenous and endogenous sources. We further introduce current knowledge on the possible roles of oxidative stress in skin pigmentation and aging, specifically with emphasis on oxidative stress and skin pigmentation. Meanwhile, we summarize the science and rationale of using three well-known antioxidants, namely vitamin C, resveratrol and ferulic acid, in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Finally, we discuss the strategy for preventing oxidative stress-induced skin pigmentation and aging.

Phenolic Extract from Aralia nudicaulis L. Rhizomes Inhibits Cellular Oxidative Stresses

UV-B and IR-A radiation are important inducers of biological changes in skin involving ROS generation. The overloading of antioxidant defense mechanisms by ROS production could lead to photoaging and photocarcinogenesis processes. Various traditional usages are reported for Aralia nudicaulis L. extracts, including treatment of dermatological disorders. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties have already been reported for other Aralia species possibly due to the presence of phenolic compounds. However, the phenolic composition and the potential activity of A. nudicaulis rhizomes extract against oxidative stress and UV/IR damages have not been investigated. The main aims of this study were to prepare a fraction enriched in phenolic compounds (FEPC) from A. nudicaulis rhizomes, to identify its major phenolic compounds and to assess its potential for protective effects against oxidative stress induced by UV-B, IR-A or inflammation. A quantitative LC-MS study of FEPC shows that chlorogenic, caffeic and protocatechuic acids are the main phenolic compounds present, with concentrations of 15.6%, 15.3% and 4.8% of the total composition, respectively. With a validated analytical method, those compounds were quantified over different stages of the growing period. As for biological potential, first this extract demonstrates antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. Furthermore, ROS generation induced by IR-A and UV-B were strongly inhibited by A. nudicaulis extract, suggesting that Aralia nudicaulis L. rhizome extract could protect dermal cells against oxidative stress induced by UV-B and IR-A.

Quantitative assessment and influence factors of facial wrinkle situation in male construction workers in Beijing

OBJECTIVE

To investigate current situation of facial wrinkles of male construction workers in Beijing area and to discuss the correlative factors.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A total of 149 male construction works and 63 male non-construction workers in Beijing were required to complete a questionnaire on their exposure to sunlight, dust, noise, and heat in their workplace environment. Their facial wrinkle scores were measured by VISIA Complexion Analysis System. The two-sample t test, chi-square test, and multiple linear regression were used for statistical analysis RESULTS: The exposure to sunlight, dust, noise, and heat of construction workers was significantly higher than that of non-construction workers (P < .01). The wrinkle score of construction workers between 20 and 29 years old was significantly higher than that of non-construction workers (t = 4.077, P < .01). The facial wrinkle score of construction workers(r = 0.657, P < .01) and non-construction workers (r = 0.681, P < .01) was both positively correlated with age. The wrinkle score of construction workers was related to age, sunlight, and noise(P < .01).

CONCLUSION

The wrinkle score of male construction workers between 20 and 29 years old is significantly higher than that of non-construction workers in Beijing. Age, sunlight, and noise were the main influencing factors of wrinkle.

Vitamin D in the time of the coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic - a clinical review from a public health and public mental health perspective

Individuals with serious mental disorders (SMD) may have a higher risk of vitamin D (VIT-D) deficiency. They also experience higher mortality because of coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) infection. Therefore, we have conducted a comprehensive review to examine the significance of VIT-D for public health and public mental health during the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic. This review had three specific aims, from a global perspective to (a) create a profile of VIT-D and review the epidemiology of VIT-D deficiency, (b) explore VIT-D deficiency as risk factor for SMD and COVID-19 infections and (c) examine the effectiveness of VIT-D supplementation for both conditions. We found that, in terms of SMD, the evidence from laboratory and observational studies points towards some association between VIT-D deficiency and depression or schizophrenia. Mendelian randomisation studies, however, suggest no, or reverse, causality. The evidence from intervention studies is conflicting. Concerning COVID-19 infection, on proof of principle, VIT-D could provide a plausible defence against the infection itself and against an adverse clinical course. But data from observational studies and the first preliminary intervention studies remain conflicting, with stronger evidence that VIT-D may mitigate the clinical course of COVID-19 infection rather than the risk of infection in the first place. From a public health and public mental health point of view, based on the currently limited knowledge, for individuals with SMD, the benefits of VIT-D optimisation through supplementation seem to outweigh the risks. VIT-D supplementation, however, should not substitute for vaccination or medical care for COVID-19 infection.

Anthocyanin-Related Pigments: Natural Allies for Skin Health Maintenance and Protection

Human skin is commonly described as a particularly dynamic and complex environment, with a physiological balance continuously orchestrated by numerous internal and external factors. Intrinsic aging, exposure to UV radiation and skin pathogens are some of the key players that account for dermatological alterations and ailments. In this regard, this study intended to explore the potential skin-health beneficial properties of a group of molecules belonging to the anthocyanin family: cyanidin- and malvidin-3-O-glucosides and some of their structurally related pigments, resulting in a library of compounds with different structural properties and color hues. The inclusion of both purified compounds and crude extracts provided some insights into their distinctive effects when tested as individual agents or as part of multicomponent mixtures. Overall, most of the compounds were found to reduce biofilm production by S. aureus and P. aeruginosa reference strains, exhibit UV-filter capacity, attenuate the production of reactive oxygen species in human skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts and also showed inhibitory activity of skin-degrading enzymes, in the absence of cytotoxic effects. Carboxypyranocyanidin-3-O-glucoside stood out for its global performance which, combined with its greater structural stability, makes this a particular interesting compound for potential incorporation in topical formulations. Results provide strong evidence of the skin protective effects of these pigments, supporting their further application for cosmeceutical purposes.

To study the effect of acute infrared radiation-induced alterations in human skin at cellular and molecular level using in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy

BACKGROUND

Solar radiations are classified in terms of wavelengths, including visible light, infrared, and ultraviolet. Infrared radiation (IR) accounts the largest proportion of solar radiations that cause oxidative stress-induced aging of human skin. This study investigates the biochemical changes in proteins, lipids, and DNA associated with acute exposure to IR radiations.

METHOD

In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy was used to examine the forearms region of 20 healthy participants with phototype II skin, aged between 18 and 30 years, without IR incidence (T0), with IR incidence 30 minutes (T30) at day 1 and 30 minutes at day 2 (T60). One-way ANOVA and two-tailed t test along with post hoc Bonferroni correction were used to detect the existence of significant differences in the timestamps of stratum corneum, stratum basale, and dermis at all IR wavenumbers under test.

RESULTS

An increase in the Raman peaks of stratum corneum lipids, decrease in stratum basal DNA peaks, and a shift in the amide I peak of collagen in the skin dermis were observed. One-way ANOVA results showed significant differences among timestamps of stratum corneum, stratum basale, and dermis at all wavenumbers under test (P < .001). Furthermore, paired timestamps also showed significant differences (P < .016) except at two wavenumbers 1293 cm^-1 and 852 cm^-1 in stratum corneum and basale layer clusters on timestamps (T0 & T30 and T30 & T60, P > .016). This study proved that confocal Raman spectroscopy is an useful technique for early evaluation of IR-induced skin changes.

Antioxidant and UV-radiation absorption activity of aaptamine derivatives - potential application for natural organic sunscreens

Antioxidant and UV absorption activities of three aaptamine derivatives including piperidine[3,2-b]demethyl(oxy)aaptamine (C1), 9-amino-2-ethoxy-8-methoxy-3H-benzo[de][1,6]naphthyridine-3-one (C2), and 2-(sec-butyl)-7,8-dimethoxybenzo[de]imidazo[4,5,1-ij][1,6]-naphthyridin-10(9H)-one (C3) were theoretically studied by density functional theory (DFT). Direct antioxidant activities of C1–C3 were firstly evaluated via their intrinsic thermochemical properties and the radical scavenging activity of the potential antioxidants with the HOO˙/HO˙ radicals via four mechanisms, including: hydrogen atom transfer (HAT), single electron transfer (SET), proton loss (PL) and radical adduct formation (RAF). Kinetic calculation reveals that HOO˙ scavenging in water occurs via HAT mechanism with C1 (k_app, 7.13 × 10⁶ M⁻¹ s⁻¹) while RAF is more dominant with C2 (k_app, 1.40 × 10⁵ M⁻¹ s⁻¹) and C3 (k_app, 2.90 × 10⁵ M⁻¹ s⁻¹). Antioxidant activity of aaptamine derivatives can be classified as C1 > C3 > C2. Indirect antioxidant properties based on Cu(i) and Cu(ii) ions chelating activity were also investigated in aqueous phase. All three studied compounds show spontaneous and favorable Cu(i) ion chelating activity with ΔG⁰ being −15.4, −13.7, and −15.7 kcal mol⁻¹, whereas ΔG⁰ for Cu(ii) chelation are −10.4, −10.8, and −2.2 kcal mol⁻¹ for C1, C2 and C3, respectively. In addition, all compounds show UVA and UVB absorption; in which the excitations are determined mostly as π–π* transition. Overall, the results suggest the potential applications of the aaptamines in pharmaceutics and cosmetics, i.e. as a sunscreen and antioxidant ingredient.

Antioxidant and UV absorption activities of three aaptamine derivatives were theoretically studied by density functional theory (DFT) and time-dependent density functional theory (TD-DFT).

Mitochondrial Secrets of Youthfulness

SUMMARY

The genetic basis of youthfulness is poorly understood. The aging of skin depends on both intrinsic factors and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic factors include personal genetics, and extrinsic factors include environmental exposure to solar radiation and pollution. We recently reported the critical role of the mitochondria in skin aging phenotypes: wrinkle formation, hair graying, hair loss, and uneven skin pigmentation. This article focuses on molecular mechanisms, specifically mitochondrial mechanisms underlying skin aging. This contribution describes the development of an mitochondrial DNA depleter-repleter mouse model and its usefulness in developing strategies and identifying potential agents that can either prevent, slow, or mitigate skin aging, lentigines, and hair loss. The ongoing research efforts include the transplantation of young mitochondria to rejuvenate aging skin and hair to provide youthfulness in humans.

Skin Quality - A Holistic 360° View: Consensus Results

Introduction

Skin quality is an important component of human attractiveness. To date, there are no standardized criteria for good skin quality. To establish a consensus for good skin quality parameters and measurement and treatment options, a virtual skin quality advisory board consisting of a global panel of highly experienced aesthetic dermatologists/aesthetic physicians was convened.

Methods

A total of 10 dermatologists/aesthetic physicians served on the advisory board. A modified version of the Delphi method was used to arrive at consensus. Members accessed an online platform to review statements on skin quality criteria from their peers, including treatment and measurement options, and voted to indicate whether they agreed or disagreed. Statements that did not have agreement were modified and the members voted again. Consensus was defined as: strong consensus = greater than 95% agreement; consensus = 75% to 95% agreement; majority consent = 50% to 75% agreement; no consensus = less than 50% agreement.

Results

There was strong consensus that good skin quality is defined as healthy, youthful in appearance (appearing younger than a person's chronological age), undamaged skin and that skin quality can be described across all ethnicities by four emergent perceptual categories (EPCs): skin tone evenness, skin surface evenness, skin firmness, and skin glow. The EPCs can be affected by multiple tissue layers (ie, skin surface quality can stem from and be impacted by deep structures or tissues). This means that topical approaches may not be sufficient. Instead, improving skin quality EPCs can require a multilayer treatment strategy.

Conclusion

This global advisory board established strong consensus that skin quality can be described by four EPCs, which can help clinicians determine the appropriate treatment option(s) and the tissue or skin layer(s) to address. Skin quality is important to human health and wellbeing and patients' perception for the need for aesthetic treatment.

Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.

Pathogenesis and prevention of skin aging

Background: As global life expectancy increases, an interest in maintaining health and beauty in old age has increased. As a barrier organ, the skin is an ideal model for studying both genetically-programmed (intrinsic) and environmentallyinduced (extrinsic) aging.Current Concepts: Among the extrinsic aging factors, solar ultraviolet radiation is the most important, accounting for 80% of facial skin aging. Other nongenetic factors include air pollution, cigarette smoke, nutrition, temperature, sleep, and stress. Through complex interplay, genome, exposome and microbiome all contribute to skin aging. Intrinsic aging causes thinning of the skin and fine wrinkles, while extrinsic aging leads to thick rubbery skin texture, deep wrinkles and dyspigmentation in exposed areas. Fibroblast senescence is a fundamental mechanism of skin aging, with these cells persisting and exhibiting a senescence-associated secretory phenotype which secrets proinflammatory cytokines. Chronic low-level inflammation associated with aging, termed inflamm-aging, is exacerbated by oxidative damage caused by extrinsic factors.Discussion and Conclusion: Understanding the pathogenesis of skin aging may help in developing anti-aging strategies in general. In addition to applying sunscreen every morning and retinoic acid every night, taking antioxidant-rich foods and maintaining a healthy lifestyle are all important for preventing skin aging.

Adult skin acute stress responses to short-term environmental and internal aggression from exposome factors

Exposome factors that lead to stressed skin can be defined as any disturbance to homeostasis from environmental (meteorological factors, solar radiation, pollution or tobacco smoke) and/or internal exposure (unhealthy diet, hormonal variations, lack of sleep, psychosocial stress). The clinical and biological impact of chronic exposome effects on skin functions has been extensively reviewed, whereas there is a paucity of information on the impact of short‐term acute exposure. Acute stress, which would typically last minutes to hours (and generally no more than a week), provokes a transient but robust neuroendocrine‐immune and tissue remodelling response in the skin and can alter the skin barrier. Firstly, we provide an overview of the biological effects of various acute stressors on six key skin functions, namely the skin physical barrier, pigmentation, defences (antioxidant, immune cell‐mediated, microbial and microbiome maintenance), structure (extracellular matrix and appendages), neuroendocrine and thermoregulation functions. Secondly, we describe the biological and clinical effects on adult skin from individual exposome factors that elicit an acute stress response and their consequences in skin health maintenance. Clinical manifestations of acutely stressed skin may include dry skin that might accentuate fine lines, oily skin, sensitive skin, pruritus, erythema, pale skin, sweating, oedema and flares of inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, pigmentation disorders and skin superinfection such as viral reactivation. Acute stresses can also induce scalp sensitivity, telogen effluvium and worsen alopecia.

Immunological Aspects of Skin Aging in Atopic Dermatitis

The cutaneous immune response is important for the regulation of skin aging well as for the development of immune-mediated skin diseases. Aging of the human skin undergoes immunosenescence with immunological alterations and can be affected by environmental stressors and internal factors, thus leading to various epidermal barrier abnormalities. The dysfunctional epidermal barrier, immune dysregulation, and skin dysbiosis in the advanced age, together with the genetic factors, facilitate the late onset of atopic dermatitis (AD) in the elderly, whose cases have recently been on the rise. Controversial to the healthy aged skin, where overproduction of many cytokines is found, the levels of Th2/Th22 related cytokines inversely correlated with age in the skin of older AD patients. As opposed to an endogenously aged skin, the expression of the terminal differentiation markers significantly increases with age in AD. Despite the atenuated barrier disturbances in older AD patients, the aged skin carries an impairment associated with the aging process, which reflects the persistence of AD. The chronicity of AD in older patients might not directly affect skin aging but does not allow spontaneous remission. Thus, adult- and elderly subtypes of AD are considered as a lifelong disease.

Skin moisture assessment using Hydration Sensor Patches coupled with smartphones via Near Field Communication (NFC). A pilot study with the first generation of patches that allow self-recordings of skin hydration

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the potency of a new skin hydration sensor patch in the fast self-recording of skin hydration.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The Skin Hydration Sensor Patch (SHSP) turns the user's smartphone into a wireless skin moisture measuring device. The SHSP combines a capacitive measurement unit and Near Field Communication technology (NFC) for transmitting data and energy. The probe is fixed onto the back of the smartphone and pressed to the skin for a few seconds where the application immediately calculates the capacitance value. Once recorded, the probe is then immediately taken off from the skin. In a first study, this system was compared to the Corneometer^® technique, in vivo, on various skin sites of 23 healthy French women. In a second study, 20 women with moderate dry skin on face and forearm self-recorded, through the SHSP the changes in skin hydration induced by a Xanthan gel containing 3% (w/w) of Glycerol, along 24 hours. A questionnaire based on 5 types of questions was established to be filled by subjects about their perception of the use of this new system.

RESULTS

In the first study, the values recorded by the SHSP were found highly correlated with those provided by the Corneometer^® . The second study allowed to observe significant differences in skin hydration of both sites at all times, as compared to values obtained before the application of the gel. Differences between both sites were observed, the face being less hydrated than forearm. From a practical aspect, the self-recordings on the face show a higher variability (approx. 10% than those of the forearm). The questionnaire led to positive answers on almost all points.

CONCLUSION

This SHSP appears as a promising approach in the field of connected skin-related devices. As such, it opens or enlarges a new paradigm in the relationships between a consumer and a cosmetic product.

Clinical and biological impact of the exposome on the skin

The skin exposome is defined as the totality of environmental exposures over the life course that can induce or modify various skin conditions. Here, we review the impact on the skin of solar exposure, air pollution, hormones, nutrition and psychological factors. Photoageing, photocarcinogenesis and pigmentary changes are well-established consequences of chronic exposure of the skin to solar radiation. Exposure to traffic-related air pollution contributes to skin ageing. Particulate matter and nitrogen dioxide cause skin pigmentation/lentigines, while ozone causes wrinkles and has an impact on atopic eczema. Human skin is a major target of hormones, and they exhibit a wide range of biological activities on the skin. Hormones decline with advancing age influencing skin ageing. Nutrition has an impact on numerous biochemical processes, including oxidation, inflammation and glycation, which may result in clinical effects, including modification of the course of skin ageing and photoageing. Stress and lack of sleep are known to contribute to a pro-inflammatory state, which, in turn, affects the integrity of extracellular matrix proteins, in particular collagen. Hormone dysregulation, malnutrition and stress may contribute to inflammatory skin disorders, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne and rosacea.

In vitro and in vivo Evaluation on the Safety and Efficacy of a Brand-New Intracutaneous Filler with α1-R-Collagen

Nowadays, the most advanced skin anti-aging treatments are addressed to restore the extracellular matrix (ECM) homeostasis. ECM is considered the main player not only as physical support of the tegument but also at the biochemical level, thanks to its capacity to exchange nutrients, water, cellular mediators, and growth factors within and between cells. This study aimed to evaluate the in vitro and in vivo efficacy and aesthetic performance of a brand-new intracutaneous filler. The latter is based on novel concepts: besides filling it exerts a homeostatic balance of nutrients able to delay the skin aging process by sustaining physiological rejuvenation of the tissue and in the surrounding injection/implantation area. The brand-new intracutaneous filler was tested for in vitro capacity to stimulate extracellular matrix components production. Therefore, a single session for injection of the product under study was performed by a specialized dermatologist, using the bolus technique on the zygomatic protuberance of 20 healthy female subjects with midface volume loss, caused by aging. Results confirmed the important and long-term volumizing, anti-wrinkle, the hydrating activity of this product after one single injection session. The biological outcomes also support product effectiveness in skin structure restoration.

SIRT1 suppresses cellular senescence and inflammatory cytokine release in human dermal fibroblasts by promoting the deacetylation of NF-κB and activating autophagy

Skin aging is a complex process and involves extrinsic and intrinsic processes with distinct characteristics. Understanding skin aging requires knowledge of the senescence of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and the biological mechanisms involved in this process. However, the molecular mechanism responsible for the aging of HDFs is still not clear. Therefore, we investigated mechanisms of autophagy, inflammation, and cellular senescence by Western blotting, immunofluorescence, real-time PCR, and senescence-associated β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) staining in senescent HDFs. We found SRT1720 inhibited the inductions of inflammatory cytokines and cellular senescence by deacetylating acetyl-NF-κB levels and enhancing levels of autophagy-associated proteins and SIRT1 in senescent HDFs. However, the NF-κB activator prostratin attenuated signals associated with autophagy, such as those of LC3-II and Beclin-1, but increased inflammatory cytokine levels and cellular senescence. Notably, the expression levels of SIRT1 and autophagy-associated proteins were higher in aged mice administered SRT1720 than in old mice, and SRT1720 also decreased levels of acetyl-NF-κB, inflammatory cytokines, and senescence markers, which was in accord with in vitro results. These findings support that SRT1720 acts as an anti-aging agent and inhibits the inductions of inflammatory cytokines and senescence by regulating the SIRT1/acetyl-NF-κB signaling pathway and activating autophagy in senescent HDFs.

Role of ingestible carotenoids in skin protection: A review of clinical evidence

Carotenoids, a class of phytonutrients, have been well established to boost skin's innate resistance against ultraviolet (UV) B-induced erythema (sunburn). Many of the published clinical studies thus far have focused on the measurement of erythema as the primary clinical indicator of skin protection against UVB radiation. More recent studies have shown that carotenoid supplementation provides even more skin protection than previously shown as new clinical and molecular endpoints beyond UVB-induced erythema have been reported. These recent studies have demonstrated that carotenoids also provide photoprotection against UVA-induced pigmentation and inhibit molecular markers of oxidative stress such as intercellular adhesion molecule 1, heme oxygenase-1, and matrix metalloproteinases 1 and 9. This article provides a comprehensive review of the published clinical evidence on skin benefits of carotenoids in the last five decades and indicates new perspectives on the role of ingestible carotenoids in skin protection.

An update in toxicology of ageing

The field of ageing research has been rapidly advancing in recent decades and it had provided insight into the complexity of ageing phenomenon. However, as the organism-environment interaction appears to significantly affect the organismal pace of ageing, the systematic approach for gerontogenic risk assessment of environmental factors has yet to be established. This puts demand on development of effective biomarker of ageing, as a relevant tool to quantify effects of gerontogenic exposures, contingent on multidisciplinary research approach. Here we review the current knowledge regarding the main endogenous gerontogenic pathways involved in acceleration of ageing through environmental exposures. These include inflammatory and oxidative stress-triggered processes, dysregulation of maintenance of cellular anabolism and catabolism and loss of protein homeostasis. The most effective biomarkers showing specificity and relevancy to ageing phenotypes are summarized, as well. The crucial part of this review was dedicated to the comprehensive overview of environmental gerontogens including various types of radiation, certain types of pesticides, heavy metals, drugs and addictive substances, unhealthy dietary patterns, and sedentary life as well as psychosocial stress. The reported effects in vitro and in vivo of both recognized and potential gerontogens are described with respect to the up-to-date knowledge in geroscience. Finally, hormetic and ageing decelerating effects of environmental factors are briefly discussed, as well.

Rhynchophorus palmarum (Linnaeus, 1758) (Coleoptera: Curculionidae): Guarani-Kaiowá indigenous knowledge and pharmacological activities

Zootherapy is a traditional secular practice among the Guarani-Kaiowá indigenous ethnic group living in Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil. My people use the oil extracted from larvae of the snout beetle Rhynchophorus palmarum (Linnaeus, 1758) to treat and heal skin wounds and respiratory diseases. Based on this ethnopharmacological knowledge, the chemical composition and antioxidant, antimicrobial, and healing properties of R. palmarum larvae oil (RPLO) were investigated, as well as possible toxic effects, through in vitro and in vivo assays. The chemical composition of the RPLO was determined using gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activity of RPLO was investigated through the direct 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay, and the antimicrobial activity was evaluated against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria that are pathogenic to humans. The healing properties of RPLO were investigated by performing a cell migration assay using human lung fibroblasts (MRC-5), and the toxicity was analyzed, in vivo, using a Caenorhabditis elegans model and MRC-5 cells, in vitro. RPLO contains 52.2% saturated fatty acids and 47.4% unsaturated fatty acids, with palmitic acid (42.7%) and oleic acid (40%) representing its major components, respectively. RPLO possesses direct antioxidant activity, with a half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) of 46.15 mg.ml-1. The antimicrobial activity of RPLO was not observed at a concentration of 1% (v/v). RPLO did not alter the viability of MRC-5 cells and did not exert toxic effects on C. elegans. Furthermore, MRC-5 cells incubated with 0.5% RPLO showed a higher rate of cell migration than that of the control group, supporting its healing properties. Taken together, RPLO possesses direct antioxidant activity and the potential to aid in the healing process and is not toxic toward in vitro and in vivo models, corroborating the safe use of the oil in traditional Guarani-Kaiowá medicine.

Challenging Cosmetic Innovation: The Skin Microbiota and Probiotics Protect the Skin from UV-Induced Damage

Many studies performed in the last decade have focused on the cutaneous microbiota. It has been shown that this microbiota plays a key role in skin homeostasis. Considered as “a second barrier” to the environment, it is very important to know how it reacts to exogenous aggressions. The cosmetics industry has a started to use this microbiota as a source of natural ingredients, particularly ones that confer photoprotection against ultraviolet (UV) rays. Interestingly, it has been demonstrated that bacterial molecules can block UV rays or reverse their harmful effects. Oral probiotics containing living microorganisms have also shown promising results in restoring skin homeostasis and reversing the negative effects of UV rays. Microbial-based active sunscreen compounds have huge potential for use as next-generation photoprotection products.

Daily photoprotection to prevent photoaging

BACKGROUND

Extrinsic skin aging or photoaging was previously thought to be almost exclusively due to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation. However, recent literature has described other contributing factors and clarification is thus required as to what extent and what type of daily photoprotection is needed to mitigate extrinsic skin aging.

METHODS

We reviewed the existing scientific evidence on daily photoprotection, and specific requirements at the product level, to prevent extrinsic skin aging. We critically reviewed the existing evidence on potential ecological and toxicological risks which might be associated with daily photoprotection.

RESULTS

Evidence shows that broad protection against the entire solar range of UVB, UVA, UVA1, visible light, and short infrared (IRA) is required to prevent extrinsic aging. Other exposome factors, such as air pollution and smoking, also contribute to skin aging. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen photoprotection should thus contain antioxidant ingredients for additional benefits against UV, IRA, and pollution-induced oxidative stress as well as anti-aging active ingredients to provide clinical benefits against skin aging signs, such as wrinkles and dark spots. Broad-spectrum sunscreen containing pigments, such as iron oxide, may be required for melasma prevention. There is no conclusive clinical evidence that daily sunscreen use is unsafe or that it compromises vitamin D synthesis.

CONCLUSION

Daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen containing antioxidant and anti-aging active ingredients can effectively reduce extrinsic aging.

The efficacy of radiofrequency, intense pulsed light and carboxytherapy in facial rejuvenation

Skin aging may be divided into intrinsic and extrinsic aging or photoaging. The first is a natural, slow and gradual process. The second is exacerbated by environmental factors such as improper exposure to sunlight. There are a myriad of therapeutic modalities that can improve photoaging. Intense pulsed light, radiofrequency and carboxytherapy are good procedural modalities to improve skin aging. This study aimed to evaluate and compare the efficacy and safety of IPL, RF, and carboxytherapy in facial rejuvenation. This study included 60 patients with facial wrinkles. Patients were divided into three groups. Group 1 was treated with IPL, group 2 was treated with radiofrequency while group 3 was treated with carboxytherapy. All patients received four sessions with 3-4 week interval and followed up after 3 months after the end of treatment. Patients were assessed by digital photographing and skin biopsies before and after treatment. There was a significant difference in the percentage of improvement and patients' satisfaction with more significance in group 1, followed by group 3 then group 2. IPL was the more effective, followed by carboxytherapy then RF at the end in facial rejuvenation. These results were confirmed by immunohistochemical expression of MMP1.

[Skin quality and ways to improve skin quality]

BACKGROUND

Skin quality has a significant impact on the perception of attractiveness. Procedures to improve skin quality, whose quality is assured, should have sufficiently documented scientific evidence of in vivo and in vitro efficacy and significant effects proven in studies.

OBJECTIVES

This paper will present findings from recent studies and experience of experts on skin quality and treatments to improve skin quality.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A PubMed database search was conducted in February 2021 on the terms skin quality and minimally invasive skin quality improvement procedures. Two reviewers independently screened the titles, resulting in the selection of 30 papers.

RESULTS

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is the most commonly studied agent for skin rejuvenation treatments. The efficacy and safety of the superficially injected HA products are excellently proven on the basis of current data. According to these findings, they ensure an improvement of skin quality without significant volume changes. The skin is hydrated, its elasticity increased, the skin surface smoothened, the complexion (skin redness, glow) improved and fine lines and wrinkles are reduced. They are injected intradermally and have a clinically proven effect duration of up to 12 months.

CONCLUSIONS

Hyaluronic acid is outstandingly suitable for deep hydration of the skin, and its effect is long-term and safe. Natural treatment results fulfil the needs of the patients and increase the patient-practitioner relation. Superficially injected HA products are currently the criterion standard to increase skin quality.

Sirtuin 1 and Skin: Implications in Intrinsic and Extrinsic Aging-A Systematic Review

Skin, as the outermost organ of the body, is constantly exposed to both intrinsic and extrinsic causative factors of aging. Intrinsic aging is related to compromised cellular proliferative capacity, and may be accelerated by harmful environmental influences with the greatest significance of ultraviolet radiation exposure, contributing not only to premature aging, but also to skin carcinogenesis. The overall skin cancer burden and steadily increasing global antiaging market provide an incentive for searching novel targets to improve skin resistance against external injury. Sirtuin 1, initially linked to extension of yeast and rodent lifespan, plays a key role in epigenetic modification of proteins, histones, and chromatin by which regulates the expression of genes implicated in the oxidative stress response and apoptosis. The spectrum of cellular pathways regulated by sirtuin 1 suggests its beneficial impact on skin aging. However, the data on its role in carcinogenesis remains controversial. The aim of this review was to discuss the relevance of sirtuin 1 in skin aging, in the context of intrinsic factors, related to genetic premature aging syndromes, as well as extrinsic modifiable ones, with the assessment of its future application. PubMed were searched from inception to 4 January 2021 for relevant papers with further search carried out on ClinicalTrials.gov. The systematic review included 46 eligible original articles. The evidence from numerous studies proves sirtuin 1 significance in both chronological and premature aging as well as its dual role in cancer development. Several botanical compounds hold the potential to improve skin aging symptoms.