Simultaneous determination of cosmetics ingredients in nail products by fast gas chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry

Decoding Cosmetic Complexities: A Comprehensive Guide to Matrix Composition and Pretreatment Technology

Despite advancements in analytical technologies, the complex nature of cosmetic matrices, coupled with the presence of diverse and trace unauthorized additives, hinders the application of these technologies in cosmetics analysis. This not only impedes effective regulation of cosmetics but also leads to the continual infiltration of illegal products into the market, posing serious health risks to consumers. The establishment of cosmetic regulations is often based on extensive scientific experiments, resulting in a certain degree of latency. Therefore, timely advancement in laboratory research is crucial to ensure the timely update and adaptability of regulations. A comprehensive understanding of the composition of cosmetic matrices and their pretreatment technologies is vital for enhancing the efficiency and accuracy of cosmetic detection. Drawing upon the China National Medical Products Administration's 2021 Cosmetic Classification Rules and Classification Catalogue, we streamline the wide array of cosmetics into four principal categories based on the following compositions: emulsified, liquid, powdered, and wax-based cosmetics. In this review, the characteristics, compositional elements, and physicochemical properties inherent to each category, as well as an extensive overview of the evolution of pretreatment methods for different categories, will be explored. Our objective is to provide a clear and comprehensive guide, equipping researchers with profound insights into the core compositions and pretreatment methods of cosmetics, which will in turn advance cosmetic analysis and improve detection and regulatory approaches in the industry.

A study on the applicability of one-step vortex extraction and purification combined with gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry for analysis of four skin penetration enhancers in cosmetics

Based on one-step vortex extraction and purification combined with gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS), we established a simple, rapid, and efficient method for the simultaneous determination of four skin penetration enhancers in cosmetics, including isosorbide dimethyl ether, isopropyl myristate, N-butylsaccharin and Azone. The extraction procedure was performed in a centrifuge tube, allowing extraction and purification in a single step. The cosmetic sample was extracted by n-hexane-ethyl acetate (1:1, V/V), purified by silica gel and anhydrous magnesium sulfate as the solid phase purification agent, separated on a TG-5 ms column (30.0 m × 0.25 mm × 0.25 μ m), confirmed and detected by GC-MS/MS in the selected reaction monitoring (SRM) mode, and quantified by the internal standard method with Di-n‑butyl phthalate-D4(DBP-D4) as the internal standard. The selections of a column, extraction solvent, and solid phase purification agent were optimized. Under the optimized conditions, the four skin penetration enhancers showed good linearities in the range of 0.02∼0.50 mg L - 1. The correlation coefficients (r) were 0.992 ∼ 0.997, exceeding the specifications requirements (r ≥ 0.990); The detection (LODs, S/N = 3) and quantification limits (LOQs, S/N = 10) of the method were 0.08 ∼ 0.12 mg kg-1 and 0.25 ∼ 0.40 mg kg-1, respectively. According to the cosmetic matrix in different formulation systems, the spiked recovery tests were carried out at three levels, i.e., low, medium, and high. The average recoveries of the analytes were 85.3% ∼ 95.6%, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs, n = 6) were 2.1% ∼ 7.8%. The established method was also employed to analyze cosmetics in the market. Azone, isosorbide dimethyl ether, and isopropyl myristate resulted as the most widely used skin penetration enhancers in cosmetics. The method established in this study has the advantages of operational simplicity, high sensitivity, good reproducibility, and low consumption of samples and solvents. Moreover, it can be used to determine skin penetration enhancers in cosmetics.

Evaluating Indoor Air Phthalates and Volatile Organic Compounds in Nail Salons in the Greater New York City Area: A Pilot Study

The Greater New York City area ranks highest in the United States in the number of nail salon technicians, primarily Asian immigrant women. Nail salon technicians are exposed to toxic phthalates and volatile organic compounds daily in nail salons. The purpose of this pilot study was to measure a mixture of phthalates and volatile organic compounds in nail salons in the Greater New York City area, and to characterize work-related determinants of indoor air quality in these nail salons. Working with four Asian nail salon organizations in the Greater New York City area, we measured indoor air phthalates and volatile organic compounds at 20 nail salons from February to May 2021 using silicone wristbands and passive samplers, respectively. Nail salon characteristics were also examined. We measured six phthalates and 31 volatile organic compounds. Di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate and Diethyl phthalate had the highest concentrations among the six phthalates measured. Concentrations of toluene, d-limonene, methyl methacrylate, and ethyl methacrylate were higher than that of the rest. Manicure/pedicure tables, the number of customers per day, and application of artificial nail (acrylic) services were positively associated with the levels of phthalates and volatile organic compounds. Given the large number of people employed in the nail industry and the even larger number of customers visiting such establishments, exposures to these toxic chemicals are likely to be widespread.

Determination of D&C Red 33 and Patent Blue V Azo dyes using an impressive electrochemical sensor based on carbon paste electrode modified with ZIF-8/g-C3N4/Co and ionic liquid in mouthwash and toothpaste as real samples

Synthetic azo dyes are widely used in a variety of industries, but many of them pose a risk to human health, particularly when consumed in large quantities. As a result, their existence in products should be closely monitored. D&C red 33 and Patent Blue V are mostly used in cosmetics, especially in toothpaste and mouthwashes. A novel carbon paste electrode modified with ZIF-8/g-C3N4/Co nanocomposite and 1-methyl-3-butylimidazolium bromide as an ionic liquid was employed as a highly sensitive reproducible electrochemical sensor for the simultaneous determination of these common dyes. ZIF structure has unique properties such as high surface area, suitable conductivity, and excellent porosity. The electrochemical behavior of the suggested electrode was investigated by cyclic voltammetry (CV), differential pulse voltammetry (DPV), and electrochemical impedance spectroscopy (EIS). To characterize the synthesized nanocomposites, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) were applied to investigate the structure of nanocomposites. Under the optimized conditions, the modified sensor offered a wide linear concentration range 0.08-10 μM (R2 = 0.9906) and 10-900 μM (R2 = 0.9932) with a low limit of detection of 0.034 μM. The value of diffusion coefficient (D), and the electron transfer coefficient (α) was calculated to be 310 × 10-5, and 0.9 respectively. This technique offered a successful performance for the determination of target analyte in the real samples with acceptable results between 96% and 107%.

Associations Between Residential Exposure to Volatile Organic Compounds and Liver Injury Markers

Occupational exposures to volatile organic compounds (VOCs) have been associated with numerous health complications including steatohepatitis and liver cancer. However, the potential impact of environmental/residential VOC exposures on liver health and function is largely unknown. To address this knowledge gap, the objective of this cross-sectional study is to investigate associations between VOCs and liver injury biomarkers in community residents. Subjects were recruited from six Louisville neighborhoods, and informed consent was obtained. Exposure biomarkers included 16 creatinine-adjusted urinary metabolites corresponding to 12 parent VOCs. Serological disease biomarkers measured included cytokertain-18 (K18 M65 and M30), liver enzymes, and direct bilirubin. Associations between exposure and disease biomarkers were assessed using generalized linear models. Smoking status was confirmed through urinary cotinine levels. The population comprised of approximately 60% females and 40% males; White persons accounted 78% of the population; with more nonsmokers (n = 413) than smokers (n = 250). When compared with nonsmokers, males (45%) and Black persons (26%) were more likely to be smokers. In the overall population, metabolites of acrolein, acrylonitrile, acrylamide, 1,3-butadiene, crotonaldehyde, styrene, and xylene were positively associated with alkaline phosphatase. These associations persisted in smokers, with the exception of crotonaldehyde, and addition of N,N-dimethylformamide and propylene oxide metabolites. Although no positive associations were observed for K18 M30, the benzene metabolite was positively associated with bilirubin, irrespective of smoking status. Taken together, the results demonstrated that selected VOCs were positively associated with liver injury biomarkers. These findings will enable better risk assessment and identification of populations vulnerable to liver disease.

Determination of Benzophenones in Water and Cosmetics Samples: A Comparison of Solid-Phase Extraction and Microextraction by Packed Sorbent Methods

Benzophenones (BPs) are extensively used in a wide variety of cosmetic products and other materials (e.g., textiles or plastics) to avoid damaging effects of UV radiation. In the present work, we compared two extraction methods for the determination of BPs, namely, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (BP-1), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (BP-3) and 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (BP-8), in water and cosmetics samples. The following extraction methods were used for the research: solid-phase extraction (SPE) and microextraction by packed sorbent (MEPS), whereas analysis was performed by gas chromatography with mass spectrometric detection. A comparison between the methods indicates that the MEPS technique(s) can be reliably used for analysis of BPs (sunscreen residue) in water samples and cosmetic samples with satisfactory results. This microextraction technique is cheap, easy, quick to implement, and consumes small amounts of solvents. On the other hand, the main advantage of the SPE method are low detection limits for the determination of BPs in water samples, i.e., from 0.034 to 0.067 µg L⁻¹, while, for the MEPS method, LODs were at the level of 1.8–3.2 µg L⁻¹. For both methods, the recoveries of BPs were 96–107% and 44–70% for water and cosmetics samples, respectively. The presented methods are suitable for use in cosmetics quality control and environmental pollution assessment.

An Overview of the Analytical Methods for the Determination of Organic Ultraviolet Filters in Cosmetic Products and Human Samples

UV filters are a group of compounds commonly used in different cosmetic products to absorb UV radiation. They are classified into a variety of chemical groups, such as benzophenones, salicylates, benzotriazoles, cinnamates, p-aminobenzoates, triazines, camphor derivatives, etc. Different tests have shown that some of these chemicals are absorbed through the skin and metabolised or bioaccumulated. These processes can cause negative health effects, including mutagenic and cancerogenic ones. Due to the absence of official monitoring protocols, there is an increased number of analytical methods that enable the determination of those compounds in cosmetic samples to ensure user safety, as well as in biological fluids and tissues samples, to obtain more information regarding their behaviour in the human body. This review aimed to show and discuss the published studies concerning analytical methods for the determination of organic UV filters in cosmetic and biological samples. It focused on sample preparation, analytical techniques, and analytical performance (limit of detection, accuracy, and repeatability).

Analytical methods for the determination of endocrine disrupting chemicals in cosmetics and personal care products: A review

Personal care products (PCPs) and cosmetics are indispensable product in our daily routine. Their widespread use makes them a potential route of exposure for certain contaminants to which human would not be normally exposed. One of these contaminants includes endocrine disrupting chemicals, molecules capable of mimicking the body's natural hormones and interfering with the endocrine system. Some of them are ingredients included in the product's formulation, such as UV-filters (sunscreens), phthalates (plasticizers and preservatives), synthetic musks (fragrances), parabens and other antimicrobial agents (antimicrobial preservatives). Others are non-intended added substances that may result from the manufacturing process or migration from the plastic packaging, as with bisphenols and perfluorinated compounds. Some of these endocrine disruptors have been restricted or even banned in cosmetics and PCPs given the high risk they pose to health. Thus, the development of fast, sensitive and precise methods for the identification and quantification of these compounds in cosmetics is a substantial need in order to ensure consumer safety and provide insight into the real risk of human exposure. The present work aims at reviewing the more recently developed analytical methods published in the literature for the determination of endocrine disrupting chemicals in cosmetics and PCPs using chromatographic techniques, with a focus on sample treatment and the quality of analytical parameters.

Enhanced Disrupting Effect of Benzophenone-1 Chlorination Byproducts to the Androgen Receptor: Cell-Based Assays and Gaussian Accelerated Molecular Dynamics Simulations

Benzophenone-1 (BP-1), one of the commonly used ultraviolet filters, has caused increasing public concern due to frequently detected residues in environmental and recreational waters. Its susceptibility to residual chlorine and the potential to subsequently trigger endocrine disruption remain unknown. We herein investigated the chlorination of BP-1 in swimming pool water and evaluated the endocrine disruption toward the human androgen receptor (AR). The structures of monochlorinated (P1) and dichlorinated (P2) products were separated and characterized by mass spectrometry and ¹H-¹H NMR correlation spectroscopy. P1 and P2 exhibited significantly higher antiandrogenic activity in yeast two-hybrid assays (EC₅₀, 6.13 μM and 9.30 μM) than did BP-1 (12.89 μM). Our 350 ns Gaussian accelerated molecular dynamics simulations showed the protein dynamics in a long-time scale equilibrium, and further energy calculations revealed that although increased hydrophobic interactions are primarily responsible for enhanced binding affinities between chlorinated products and the AR ligand binding domain, the second chloride in P2 still hinders the complex motion because of the solvation penalty. The mixture of BP-1-P1-P2 elicited additive antiandrogenic activity, well fitted by the concentration addition model. P1 and P2 at 1 μM consequently downregulated the mRNA expression of AR-regulated genes, NKX3.1 and KLK3, by 1.7-9.1-fold in androgen-activated LNCaP cells. Because chlorination of BP-1 occurs naturally by residual chlorine in aquatic environments, our results regarding enhanced antiandrogenic activity and disturbed AR signaling provided evidence linking the use of personal care products with potential health risks.

Toxic effects and transcriptome analyses of zebrafish (Danio rerio) larvae exposed to benzophenones

Sunscreen chemicals, such as benzophenones (BPs), are common environmental contaminants that are posing a growing health concern due to their increasing presence in water, fish, and human systems. Benzoresorcinol (BP1), oxybenzone (BP3), and dioxybenzone (BP8) are the most commonly used BPs for their ability to protect from sunburn by absorbing a broad spectrum of ultraviolet radiation. In this study, zebrafish larvae were used as an in vivo model to investigate the potential risks and molecular mechanisms of the toxic effects of BPs. The effects of these BPs on the gene expression in the aryl hydrocarbon receptor pathway, estrogen receptor pathway, and sex differentiation were detected using quantitative real-time PCR. All BPs were found to function as agonists of the estrogen receptors α and β1, indicating that these BPs likely undergo similar molecular metabolism in vivo, whereby they can activate cytochrome P450 genes and promote the expression of CYP19A and DMRT1. Furthermore, the gene expression profile of larvae after BP3 exposure was evaluated using a whole transcriptome sequencing approach. BP3 affected estradiol biosynthesis and sex differentiation. It also regulated gonadotropin-releasing hormone, thus interfering with the endocrine system. As a xenobiotic toxicant, BP3 upregulated the expression of cytochrome P450 genes (CYP1A and CYP3A65) and glutathione metabolism-related genes (GSTA, GSTM, and GSTP). It also interfered with the nervous system by regulating the calcium signaling pathway. These findings will be useful for understanding the toxicity mechanisms and metabolism of BPs in aquatic organisms and promote the regulation of these chemicals in the environment.

Current trends in sample preparation for cosmetic analysis

The widespread applications of cosmetics in modern life make their analysis particularly important from a safety point of view. There is a wide variety of restricted ingredients and prohibited substances that primarily influence the safety of cosmetics. Sample preparation for cosmetic analysis is a crucial step as the complex matrices may seriously interfere with the determination of target analytes. In this review, some new developments (2010-2016) in sample preparation techniques for cosmetic analysis, including liquid-phase microextraction, solid-phase microextraction, matrix solid-phase dispersion, pressurized liquid extraction, cloud point extraction, ultrasound-assisted extraction, and microwave digestion, are presented. Furthermore, the research and progress in sample preparation techniques and their applications in the separation and purification of allowed ingredients and prohibited substances are reviewed.