Anti-aging cosmetics: facts and controversies

Different Dilutions of Mesobotox in Facial Rejuvenation: Which is Better?

BACKGROUND

Microbotulinum toxin A treatment is a technique of delivering multiple intradermal injections of diluted botulinum toxin type A into the dermis or the interface between the dermis and the superficial layer of the facial muscles to preserve the facial mobility. The current study aimed to evaluate and compare the clinical effect of different dilutions of microbotulinum toxin A in periorbital and mid-facial rejuvenation.

METHODS

This randomized prospective interventional study included 30 female patients with different types of wrinkles in periorbital and/or mid-face. Patients were divided into three groups: group I (10 patients): 100U botulinum toxin in 5 ml saline, group II (10 patients): 100U botulinum toxin in 7 ml saline and group III (10 patients): 100U botulinum toxin in 10 ml saline.

RESULTS

A statistically significant better global esthetic improvement scale (GAIS) scores after 1 month were observed in group I compared to groups II and III. Also, after 6 months better GAIS scores were observed in group I compared to group II and in group II compared to group III. Assessment of different esthetic parameters measured by the Antera 3D camera revealed a statistically significant improvement in all parameters (periorbital and mid-face) in group I and in most of parameters (periorbital and mid-face) in groups II and III with more evident improvement after 1 month compared to after 6 months.

CONCLUSION

Intradermal microbotulinum toxin A is a cost-effective method for improving periorbital and mid-face wrinkles with a better effect of 1:5 than 1:7 and 1:10 dilutions. Facial wrinkles possess a great burden on patients' psychological status, and the emergence of novel rejuvenation technique with minimal side effects is necessary. MicroBoNT-A usage in the literature was through variety of dilutions and concentrations. Therefore, a conclusive and comparative study was essential to compare the effect of different microBoNT-A dilutions. In this context, the current study aimed to evaluate and compare the clinical effect of different dilutions of microBoNT-A in periorbital and mid-facial rejuvenation.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE III

This journal requires that authors assign a level of evidence to each article. For a full description of these Evidence-Based Medicine ratings, please refer to the Table of Contents or the online Instructions to Authors www.springer.com/00266 .

An eco-friendly system for stabilization of retinol: A step towards attending performance with improved environmental respect

OBJECTIVE

Retinol (Vitamin A) is one of the most effective molecules for the treatment of skin aging. However, it degrades rapidly under the influence of light, oxygen, metal ions, and oxidizing agents. To prevent this, stabilizing systems are used commonly. Notably, butylated hydroxytoluene (2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol) (BHT) and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) salts exhibit excellent antioxidant and metal-chelating properties but are not eco-friendly. In this study, our goal was to develop a new eco-friendly stabilization system for retinol-based formulations such that the system does not interfere with retinol skin absorption, nor its clinical efficacy.

METHODS

An evaluation tool called the Sustainable Product Optimization Tool (SPOT) was used to assess the environmental performance of formulations containing retinol and the various stabilizers investigated. Accelerated stability tests were performed on formulations stored for 2 months at 4 and 45°C (ISO/TR Standard 18811 2018 directives). Long-term stability evaluation was done on formulations stored for 24-months at room temperature. Retinol skin absorption was assessed by the Franz cell method using human skin explants (OECD guideline 428). Finally, a clinical study was performed to evaluate the cosmetic performance of a 0.3% stabilized retinol formulation.

RESULTS

N,N'-ethylenediamine disuccinic acid ([S,S]-EDDS isomer) and pentaerythritol tetrakis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate) (PBHC) showed higher biodegradability and a reduced water footprint compared with those of BHT and EDTA. The SPOT simulation gave [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC a score of 10 versus 8.84 for EDTA + BHT. Moreover, [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC better controlled the chemical degradation of retinol compared with EDTA + BHT. Retinol skin absorption was also achieved in the case of a formulation containing [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC, and several skin attributes improved significantly after 12 weeks of product use, with over 75% of the panel perceiving benefits.

CONCLUSION

Regarding retinol stabilization, the PBHC + [S,S]-EDDS combination is an eco-friendlier and more effective alternative to BHT + EDTA.

Application of Molecular Dynamics Simulations to Determine Interactions between Canary Seed (Phalaris canariensis L.) Bioactive Peptides and Skin-Aging Enzymes

Food bioactive peptides are well recognized for their health benefits such as antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antihypertensive benefits, among others. Their drug-like behavior has led to their potential use in targeting skin-related aging factors like the inhibition of enzymes related with the skin-aging process. In this study, canary seed peptides (CSP) after simulated gastrointestinal digestion (<3 kDa) were fractioned by RP-HPLC and their enzyme-inhibition activity towards elastase and tyrosinase was evaluated in vitro. CSP inhibited elastase (IC50 = 6.2 mg/mL) and tyrosinase (IC50 = 6.1 mg/mL), while the hydrophobic fraction-VI (0.2 mg/mL) showed the highest inhibition towards elastase (93%) and tyrosinase (67%). The peptide fraction with the highest inhibition was further characterized by a multilevel in silico workflow, including physicochemical descriptor calculations, antioxidant activity predictions, and molecular dynamics-ensemble docking towards elastase and tyrosinase. To gain insights into the skin permeation process during molecular dynamics simulations, based on their docking scores, five peptides (GGWH, VPPH, EGLEPNHRVE, FLPH, and RPVNKYTPPQ) were identified to have favorable intermolecular interactions, such as hydrogen bonding of polar residues (W, H, and K) to lipid polar groups and 2-3 Å van der Waals close contact of hydrophobic aliphatic residues (P, V, and L). These interactions can play a critical role for the passive insertion of peptides into stratum corneum model skin-membranes, suggesting a promising application of CSP for skin-aging treatments.

Effects of oral intake fruit or fruit extract on skin aging in healthy adults: a systematic review and Meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials

Background

In recent years, oral various fruits or supplements of fruits natural extracts have been reported to have significant anti-aging effects on the skin (1, 2), However, despite many studies on this topic, there is often no clear evidence to support their efficacy and safety. In this paper, we present a comprehensive review and Meta-analysis of the evidence for the safety and efficacy of oral fruits and fruits extracts in improving skin aging.

Methods

Four databases, Pubmed, Embase, Web of Science, and Cochrane Library (CENTRAL), were searched for relevant literature from 2000-01 to 2023-03. Seven randomized controlled trials (RCTs) of fruit intake or fruit extracts associated with anti-skin aging were screened for Meta-analysis.

Results

Compared to placebo, oral intake of fruit or fruit extracts showed significant statistical differences in skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), with a significant improvement in skin hydration and a significant decrease in TEWL. No significant statistical difference was observed in minimal erythema dose (MED), overall skin elasticity (R2), or wrinkle depth, and no evidence of significant improvement in skin condition was observed.

Conclusion

Meta-analysis results suggest that consume administration of fruits or fruit extracts significantly enhances skin hydration and reduces transcutaneous water loss, but there is insufficient evidence to support other outcome recommendations, including minimal erythema dose (MED), overall skin elasticity(R2), and wrinkle depth.

Systematic Review Registration

PROSPERO (york.ac.uk), identifier CRD42023410382.

Senotherapeutic peptide treatment reduces biological age and senescence burden in human skin models

Cellular senescence is known to play a role in age-related skin function deterioration which potentially influences longevity. Here, a two-step phenotypic screening was performed to identify senotherapeutic peptides, leading to the identification of Peptide (Pep) 14. Pep 14 effectively decreased human dermal fibroblast senescence burden induced by Hutchinson-Gilford Progeria Syndrome (HGPS), chronological aging, ultraviolet-B radiation (UVB), and etoposide treatment, without inducing significant toxicity. Pep 14 functions via modulation of PP2A, an understudied holoenzyme that promotes genomic stability and is involved in DNA repair and senescence pathways. At the single-cell level, Pep 14 modulates genes that prevent senescence progression by arresting the cell cycle and enhancing DNA repair, which consequently reduce the number of cells progressing to late senescence. When applied on aged ex vivo skin, Pep 14 promoted a healthy skin phenotype with structural and molecular resemblance to young ex vivo skin, decreased the expression of senescence markers, including SASP, and reduced the DNA methylation age. In summary, this work shows the safe reduction of the biological age of ex vivo human skins by a senomorphic peptide.

The Prospects of Algae-Derived Vitamins and Their Precursors for Sustainable Cosmeceuticals

Aquatic algae are a rich source of a wide range of bioproducts intended to compete for a sizable global market share. Thanks to the gradual shift towards the use of natural products, microalgae-derived bioactive compounds offer an ecofriendly and vegan option to the cosmeceutical sector, whose products aim to improve skin health but currently consist of mostly synthetic chemicals. In particular, algae-derived vitamins and their precursors are being explored and widely used in the cosmeceuticals industry as compounds that contain biologically active ingredients with therapeutic benefits. The present review highlights the current strategies for industrial production of an array of vitamins from algae for cosmeceutical applications. When compared to traditional plant sources, algae have been found to accumulate vitamins, such as A, B1, B2, B6, B12, C and E, in high concentrations. The purpose of this review is to provide context for the development of a green and sustainable algae-derived bioeconomy by summarizing and comparing the current market for vitamins and precursors derived from algae, as well as presenting novel strategies and key findings from the most recent research in this area. Emphasis is placed on novel biotechnological interventions that encompass genetic modifications, genetic engineering, and media development to enhance vitamin biosynthesis.

Commentary: Facial Aesthetic Dermatological Procedures and Photoprotection in Chinese Populations

The medical literature on aesthetic dermatology has primarily focused on a light-skinned patient population, yet patients of darker skin types have different needs and priorities. In Chinese individuals, key concerns include altered pigmentation, which is perceived to age the individual, and also relates to the Chinese cultural standard of beauty of fair skin; many seek aesthetic treatment for this. Non-invasive cosmetic procedures such as lasers and injections are also gaining in popularity in the Chinese market, but this population is prone to hyperpigmentation as an adverse effect of such procedures. Considered and tailored approaches, both to primary concerns of photoaging and the side effects of cosmetic treatments, are warranted.

Nutricosmetics: A new frontier in bioactive peptides' research toward skin aging

Food derived bioactive peptides are small protein fragments (2-20 amino acids long) that can exhibit health benefits, beyond basic nutrition. For example, food bioactive peptides can act as physiological modulators with hormone or drug-like activities including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and the ability to inhibit enzymes related to chronic disease metabolism. Recently, bioactive peptides have been studied for their potential role as nutricosmetics. For example, bioactive peptides can impart skin-aging protection toward extrinsic (i.e., environmental and sun UV-ray damage) and intrinsic (i.e., natural cell or chronological aging) factors. Specifically, bioactive peptides have demonstrated antioxidant and antimicrobial activates toward reactive oxygen species (ROS) and pathogenic bacteria associated with skin diseases, respectively. The anti-inflammatory properties of bioactive peptides using in vivo models has also been reported, where peptides have shown to decreased the expression of IL-6, TNF-α, IL-1β, interferon-γ (INF-γ), and interleukin-17 (IL-17) in mice models. This chapter will discuss the main factors that trigger skin-aging processes, as well as provide examples of in vitro, in vivo, and in silico applications of bioactive peptides in relation to nutricosmetic applications.

Effectiveness of Dietary Supplement for Skin Moisturizing in Healthy Adults: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials

Background

The dietary supplement industry offers many oral cosmetics that purportedly assist in skin moisturization often with unclear evidence supporting efficacy and safety. To update the accessible proofs pertaining to the safety and effectiveness of oral dietary supplements to facilitate skin moisturizing via an all-around review and meta-analysis.

Methods

Three on-line databases [Pubmed, Embase, and Cochrane Library (CENTRAL)] were retrieved from January 2000 to November 2021. An overall 66 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) of skin care were recognized. Meta-analysis was performed for dietary supplements with four or more available research.

Results

Oral collagen or ceramide resulted in a statistically significant increase in skin hydration and a decrease in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) compared to placebo. No benefits regarding the improvement of skin conditions in terms of water content and TEWL were observed for lactic acid bacteria or Lactobacillus fermented foods. A statistically significant and positive effect on skin hydration was observed for both hyaluronan and procyanidin, with an unknown effect on TEWL due to insufficient RCTs. There was a non-significant improvement in the water content of stratum corneum for astaxanthin based on subgroup analyses. Among the dietary supplements trialed in ≤ 3 RCTs, the judgment regarding their effects on skin moisturizing was prevented by inconsistent conclusions as well as insufficient research. All food supplements were safe throughout the research (normally ≤ 24 weeks).

Conclusion

Oral dietary supplements, including collagen, ceramides, hyaluronan, and procyanidin, were proven to be effective for skin moisturization. At present, for skin moisturization, the proofs supporting the recommendation of other dietary supplements, such as lactic acid bacteria and astaxanthin, are insufficient.

Systematic Review Registration

http://www.crd.york.ac.uk/PROSPERO/ identifier CRD42021290818.

Usage Patterns and Self-Esteem of Female Consumers of Antiaging Cosmetic Products

Aging is an irreversible process of the human body, resulting from a progressive decrease in the biological functions of the organs, including the skin. This study analyzed the relationship between usage patterns of different types of anti-aging cosmetic products, sociodemographic variables, appearance schemes, psychological morbidity, perfectionism, and aging perception of aging with self-esteem. This cross-sectional study included a sample of 260 women, aged between 25 and 64 years, who are users of anti-aging cosmetics and/or aesthetic treatments. Participants were assessed on psychological morbidity (Hospital Anxiety and Depression Scale), appearance schemes (Appearance Schemas Inventory—Revised), perfectionism (Frost Multidimensional Perfectionism Scale), aging perceptions (Brief Aging Perceptions Questionnaire), and self-esteem (Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale). The use of facial-firming cosmetics positively correlated with self-esteem. The results of regression analysis revealed that psychological morbidity and perfectionism contribute negatively to self-esteem, while marital status, professional status, and aging perceptions (positive consequences) contribute positively. According to the results, intervention programs to promote women’s self-esteem should focus on the reduction in psychological morbidity and the promotion of adaptive patterns of perfectionism and address aging perceptions. Longitudinal studies might help explain the complex relationship between the use of anti-aging cosmetic products and psychological variables, particularly self-esteem in women.

Metabolic Basis and Clinical Evidence for Skin Lightening Effects of Thiol Compounds

Melanin pigment is a major factor in determining the color of the skin, and its abnormal increase or decrease can cause serious pigmentation disorders. The melanin pigment of the skin is divided into light pheomelanin and dark eumelanin, and a big difference between them is whether they contain sulfur. Melanin synthesis starts from a common reaction in which tyrosine or dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) is oxidized by tyrosinase (TYR) to produce dopaquinone (DQ). DQ is spontaneously converted to leukodopachrome and then oxidized to dopachrome, which enters the eumelanin synthesis pathway. When DQ reacts with cysteine, cysteinyl dopa is generated, which is oxidized to cysteinyl DQ and enters the pheomelanin synthesis pathway. Therefore, thiol compounds can influence the relative synthesis of eumelanin and pheomelanin. In addition, thiol compounds can inhibit enzymatic activity by binding to copper ions at the active site of TYR, and act as an antioxidant scavenging reactive oxygen species and free radicals or as a modulator of redox balance, thereby inhibiting overall melanin synthesis. This review will cover the metabolic aspects of thiol compounds, the role of thiol compounds in melanin synthesis, comparison of the antimelanogenic effects of various thiol compounds, and clinical trials on the skin lightening efficacy of thiol compounds. We hope that this review will help identify the advantages and disadvantages of various thiol compounds as modulators of skin pigmentation and contribute to the development of safer and more effective strategies for the treatment of pigmentation disorders.

Anti-Aging Effects of Terminalia bellirica, Phyllanthus emblica, Triphala, and Carica papaya Extracts for Sustainable Youth

As the human lifespan becomes longer, many people invest time and money in managing external beauty. However, managing external beauty has the disadvantage of causing side effects or that the effect does not last. Therefore, research and development are required to maximize effectiveness, eco-friendliness, and sustainably in beauty management. The purpose of this study was to experimentally identify the anti-aging effects, such as skin wrinkle and elasticity improvement, of extracts from Bahera, Phyllanthus emblica, Triphala, and Carica papaya, and to confirm their development as whitening and wrinkle functional cosmetic materials. In this study, a solid mixture was prepared using eco-friendly Terminalia bellirica, amla (Phyllanthus emblica), Triphala, and Carica papaya, and experimental samples were extracted. Antioxidant tests, antibacterial activity tests, polyphenol and flavonoid content, and deodorization tests were conducted to test the efficacy of experimental samples. The procedures and methods of these experiments are summarized in the following article. In this study, we found that the Bahera, Phyllanthus emblica, Triphala, and Carica papaya extracts had significant effects on whitening and wrinkle improvement, and that the effects of using ethanol-based extracts as the co-solvent were even greater. In other words, extracts of Bahera, Phyllanthus emblica, Triphala and Carica papaya showed antioxidant, whitening, and anti-wrinkle effects, and extracts that used ethanol as a co-solvent showed greater effects. In particular, we found that the optimal concentration of ethanol as a co-solvent maximizes its effectiveness at 70%.

Thin-layer hydration method to prepare a green tea extract niosomal gel and its antioxidant performance

This study aimed to prepare a niosomal gel of green tea (Camellia sinensis) extract containing catechins, mostly epigallocatechin-3-gallate (ECGC), as a potent antioxidant. Niosomes can increase EGCG's stability and penetration into the skin for a better therapeutic effect. Niosomes were prepared by a thin-layer hydration method, were evaluated for their vesicle shape, particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential and entrapment efficiency, and then incorporated into gels using sodium alginate as a gelling agent. Three niosomal gel formulations were prepared with different concentrations of niosomes green tea extract. Afterwards, organoleptic properties, chemical and physical characteristics, antioxidant activity, and stability and irritability of the niosomal gels were investigated. The different concentrations of green tea extract had a significant effect on the physical characteristics, but not on the chemical ones. Its antioxidant activity was determined using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging method. The 50% extract green tea niosomes gel showed the highest inhibition value (25.13%). The stability was determined by freeze–thaw and real-time methods; they showed a decrease in pH, but still within the pH range of skin. The irritability test used was the Hen's Egg Test-Chorioallantoic Membrane (HET-CAM) method, which showed no irritation for all formulas. In conclusion, 50% green tea extract niosomes gel results showed it to be the best formulation with optimal antioxidant results.

Antiaging and Skin Irritation Potential of Four Main Indonesian Essential Oils

Essential oils possess antiaging properties due to their antioxidant activity. This study aims to determine the antiaging activities of four main Indonesian essential oils and their irritation potential on the skin. The spot yeast and in vivo rat skin with UVB exposure methods were used to analyze the antiaging activity of essential oils on aging triggered by endogenous and exogenous factors, respectively. Meanwhile, patch tests and clinical evaluations were used for the skin irritation potential analysis. The antiaging activity results from the endogenous factor showed that the use of clove, patchouli, nutmeg, and citronella oils increased yeast viability at concentrations of 20, 40, 60, and 100 µg/mL, respectively. Furthermore, nutmeg, cloves, citronella, and patchouli oils decreased the wrinkle score on rat skin after UVB exposure (exogenous factor). The skin irritation potential results of patchouli, nutmeg, citronella, and clove oils were none (0), slightly (0.02), moderately (0.09), and very irritating (0.39), respectively.

The beauty of biocatalysis: sustainable synthesis of ingredients in cosmetics

Covering: 2015 up to July 2021The market for cosmetics is consumer driven and the desire for green, sustainable and natural ingredients is increasing. The use of isolated enzymes and whole-cell organisms to synthesise these products is congruent with these values, especially when combined with the use of renewable, recyclable or waste feedstocks. The literature of biocatalysis for the synthesis of ingredients in cosmetics in the past five years is herein reviewed.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

Novel Self-Nano-Emulsifying Drug Delivery Systems Containing Astaxanthin for Topical Skin Delivery

Astaxanthin (ASX) is a potent lipophilic antioxidant derived from the natural pigment that gives marine animals their distinctive red-orange colour and confers protection from ultraviolet radiation. Self nano-emulsifying drug delivery systems (SNEDDS) have been successfully developed and evaluated to increase the skin penetration of ASX and target its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory potential to the epidermis and dermis. SNEDDS were prepared using a low-temperature spontaneous emulsification method, and their physical characteristics, stability, antioxidant activity, and skin penetration were characterized. Terpenes (D-limonene, geraniol, and farnesol) were included in the SNEDDS formulations to evaluate their potential skin penetration enhancement. An HPLC assay was developed that allowed ASX recovery from skin tissues and quantification. All SNEDDS formulations had droplets in the 20 nm range, with low polydispersity. ASX stability over 28 days storage in light and dark conditions was improved and antioxidant activity was high. SNEDDS-L1 (no terpene) gave significantly increased ASX penetration to the stratum corneum (SC) and the epidermis-dermis-follicle region (E + D + F) compared to an ASX in oil solution and a commercial ASX facial serum product. The SNEDDS-containing D-limonene gave the highest ASX permeation enhancement, with 3.34- and 3.79-fold the amount in the SC and E + D + F, respectively, compared to a similar applied dose of ASX in oil. We concluded that SNEDDS provide an effective formulation strategy for enhanced skin penetration of a highly lipophilic molecule, and when applied to ASX, have the potential to provide topical formulations for UV protection, anti-aging, and inflammatory conditions of the skin.

Collagen Hydrolysate Prepared from Chicken By-Product as a Functional Polymer in Cosmetic Formulation

Chicken stomachs can be processed into collagen hydrolysate usable in cosmetic products. The aim of the study was to verify the effects of a carbopol gel formulation enriched with 1.0% (w/w) chicken hydrolysate on the properties of the skin in the periorbital area after regular application twice a day for eight weeks in volunteers ageed 50 ± 9 years. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin elasticity and skin relief were evaluated. Overall, skin hydration increased by 11.82% and 9.45%, TEWL decreased by 25.70% and 17.80% (always reported for the right and left area). Generally, there was an increase in skin elasticity, a decrease in skin roughness, as the resonance times decreased by 85%. The average reduction of wrinkles was 35.40% on the right and 41.20% on the left. For all results, it can be seen that the longer the cosmetic gel formulation is applied, the better the results. Due to the positive effect on the quality and functionality of the skin, it is possible to apply the cosmetic gel formulation in the periorbital area. The advantage of the product with chicken collagen hydrolysate is also the biocompatibility with the skin and the biodegradability of the formulation.

Hallmarks of aging and immunosenescence: Connecting the dots

Aging is a natural physiological process that features various and variable challenges, associated with loss of homeostasis within the organism, often leading to negative consequences for health. Cellular senescence occurs when cells exhaust the capacity to renew themselves and their tissue environment as the cell cycle comes to a halt. This process is influenced by genetics, metabolism and extrinsic factors. Immunosenescence, the aging of the immune system, is a result of the aging process, but can also in turn act as a secondary inducer of senescence within other tissues. This review aims to summarize the current state of knowledge regarding hallmarks of aging in relation to immunosenescence, with a focus on aging-related imbalances in the medullary environment, as well as the components of the innate and adaptive immune responses. Aging within the immune system alters its functionality, and has consequences for the person's ability to fight infections, as well as for susceptibility to chronic diseases such as cancer and cardiovascular disease. The senescence-associated secretory phenotype is described, as well as the involvement of this phenomenon in the paracrine induction of senescence in otherwise healthy cells. Inflammaging is discussed in detail, along with the comorbidities associated with this process. A knowledge of these processes is required in order to consider possible targets for the application of senotherapeutic agents - interventions with the potential to modulate the senescence process, thus prolonging the healthy lifespan of the immune system and minimizing the secondary effects of immunosenescence.

Highly Stable and Fine-Textured Hybrid Microspheres for Entrapment of Cosmetic Active Ingredients

This study details the preparation and application of supramolecular host-guest inclusion complexes entrapping biomineralized microspheres for long-term storage and their pH-responsive behavior. The microspheres were assembled using a CaCO₃ synthesis process coupled with cyclodextrin-tetrahydrocurcumin (CD-THC) inclusion complexes, forming fine-textured and mechanically stable hybrid materials. The products were successfully characterized using field-emission scanning electron microscopy (FE-SEM), energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS), Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction (XRD), and particle size analysis (PSA). Various parameters such as the Brunauer-Emmett-Teller (BET) surface area, single point total pore volume, and pore size via adsorption/desorption analysis were also determined. The obtained THC-entrapped hybrid microspheres contained as high as 20 wt % THC loading and were very stable, preserving 90% of the initial concentration over four weeks of storage at different temperatures, largely limiting THC leaching and indicating high stability in a physiological environment. In addition, the pH-responsive release of THC from the hybrid microspheres was observed, showing potential use for application to weakly acidic skin surfaces. To our knowledge, this is the first demonstration of antiaging cosmetic formulation technology using biomineralization based on the co-synthesis of CaCO₃ and CD-THC complexes.

Nanoemulsion Stabilized by Safe Surfactin from Bacillus Subtilis as a Multifunctional, Custom-Designed Smart Delivery System

The developing field of bio-nanotechnology aims to advance colloidal research via the introduction of multifunctional nanoparticles to augment the dermal effectiveness of active substances. Self-emulsifying drug delivery systems (SEDDS)-isotropic mixtures of oils, surfactants, solvents and co-solvents or surfactants-are attracting interest in the cosmeceutical field. As part of this study, SEDDS systems containing vitamin C or vitamin E and curcumin were developed, whereby the bioavailability of the active compounds increased by enhancing their permeability to deeper layers of the skin. A composition consisting of 50% surfactin from Bacillus subtilis, 30% Transcutol and 20% oil phase was designed to encapsulate the active substances, i.e., vitamin C or vitamin E and curcumin, contained in the oil phase. The developed carriers were characterized by average particle sizes of 69-183 nm. The formulations with the vitamins were found to be physically and chemically stable for 6 months. Transdermal tests were carried out, showing that the carriers enable the transport of active substances deep into the skin, stopping at the dermis border. The formulations with vitamin C and vitamin E reduced the discoloration, the vascular lesions, and the depth of the wrinkles on the tested skin, which can be useful in cosmetics in the treatment of problem skin, including capillary and sensitive skin.

Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review

Over-the-counter antiaging formulations aim to prevent or minimize the signs of aging skin, and to maintain the benefits obtained from different cosmetic procedures. Even though a huge selection of such products is available on the market, evidence and good clinical practice of the data supporting their use are oftentimes lacking. In this systematic review, the authors reviewed scientific data available in the published literature on the most common ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics, with a particular focus on in vivo studies.

Up- or Downregulation of Melanin Synthesis Using Amino Acids, Peptides, and Their Analogs

Harmonious synthesis and distribution of melanin in the skin contribute to the expression of beauty and the maintenance of health. When skin pigmentary disorders occur because of internal or external factors or, when there is a need to artificially increase or reduce the pigmentation level of the skin for aesthetic or therapeutic purposes, various pharmacological therapies are applied but the results are not always satisfactory. Studies have been conducted to improve the efficacy and safety of these treatment strategies. In this review, we present the latest studies regarding peptides and related compounds that may be useful in artificially increasing or reducing skin melanin levels. Certain analogs of α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH) and oligopeptides with the sequences derived from the hormone were shown to promote melanin synthesis in cells and in vivo models. Various amino acids, peptides, their analogs, and their hybrid compounds with other chemical moieties were shown to inhibit tyrosinase (TYR) catalytic activity or downregulate TYR gene expression. Certain peptides were shown to inhibit melanosome biogenesis or induce autophagy, leading to decreased pigmentation. In vivo and clinical evidence are available for some compounds, including [Nle⁴-_D-Phe⁷]-α-MSH, glutathione disulfide, and glycinamide hydrochloride. For many other compounds, additional studies are required to verify their efficacy and safety in vivo and in clinical trials. The accumulating information regarding pro- and antimelanogenic activity of peptides and related compounds will lead to the development of novel drugs for the treatment of skin pigmentary disorders.

Identification of chia seed (Salvia hispanica L.) peptides with enzyme inhibition activity towards skin-aging enzymes

Chia (Salvia hispanica) seed peptides have drawn attention because of their antioxidant, antihypertensive and anti-inflammatory activities, making them ideal candidates for development of cosmeceutical skin products. However, there are no preceding reports that address their aging-related enzyme inhibitory activities. The aim of this study was to investigate the in vitro and in silico inhibitory activity of chia seed peptides towards the main aging-related enzymes. Enzyme-inhibition activity of < 3 kDa chia seed peptides towards collagenase, hyaluronidase, tyrosinase, and elastase was evaluated. Further fractions were obtained by size exclusion chromatography (SEC) and re-tested for enzyme inhibitory activity. Peptide sequences were identified from the most effective fraction and used for in silico analysis. The < 3 kDa peptides exhibited inhibitory activities towards elastase (65.32%, IC₅₀ = 0.43 mg/mL), tyrosinase (58.74%, IC₅₀ = 0.66 mg/mL), hyaluronidase (26.96%, IC₅₀ = 1.28 mg/mL), and collagenase (28.90%, IC₅₀ = 1.41 mg/mL). They showed mixed-type inhibition patterns towards elastase and hyaluronidase, while a non-competitive inhibition pattern was observed towards collagenase and tyrosinase. Fraction II obtained by SEC, showed higher enzyme inhibitory activity. Seven peptides were identified in this fraction (APHWYTN, DQNPRSF, GDAHWAY, GDAHWTY, GDAHWVY, GFEWITF, and KKLKRVYV), which according to in silico analysis, possess 19-29 enzyme-peptide pair interactions towards elastase and three peptide sequences shared homology sequence (GDAHW). These results demonstrate that peptides from chia seeds may contribute in the improvement of skin health by offering protection against aging-related enzymes by preventing degradation of the protein matrix on the skin; however, further in vivo studies are needed to evaluate its actual capability.

Applicability of bacterial cellulose in cosmetics - bibliometric review

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Bacterial cellulose is biocompatible, hydrophilic, biodegradable being a biopolymer.

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In cosmetics it is used as emulsion stabilizer and as asset delivery masks and skin treatments.

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2019 presents the largest number of publications in the area.

The search for innovation and new approaches to mitigate environmental impact encourages the cosmetic industry to explore new methodologies and materials. Bacterial cellulose has been the focus of research because it has high biocompatibility, skin adhesion, and water retention, in addition to being a sustainable alternative material. This review paper explored the perspectives emerging in the scientific literature on the use of bacterial cellulose in cosmetics. This bibliometric review was performed using four databases along with three software programs to obtain a more complete analysis. The search identified 18 articles related to the topic. Because the highest number of articles was published in the year 2019, it was estimated that more publications will appear in the near future. Studies have demonstrated the potential for the use of bacterial cellulose in face masks for the delivery of active compounds and increased skin hydration, and it can also act as an emulsion stabilizer.

In Situ Gel Formation in Microporated Skin for Enhanced Topical Delivery of Niacinamide

Although used widely in cosmetic formulations, topical delivery of niacinamide (LogP = -0.35) is unfavorable by conventional means. Poly(lactide-co-glycolide) (PLGA) formulations, can undergo a sol-gel transition triggered by solvent exchange, entrapping molecules and sustaining their release. The current study aims to exploit the ability of PLGA to gel in situ and enhance the topical delivery of niacinamide in microporated skin. In vitro drug permeation studies were performed using vertical Franz diffusion cells. Microporation was performed using Dr. Pen^TM Ultima A6, where pre-treatment with a 1 mm needle-length for 10 s and a 0.5 mm needle-length for 5 s, both at 13,000 insertions/min were compared. The effect of different grades of PLGA, EXPANSORB^® DLG 50-2A ("low" molecular weight), and EXPANSORB^® DLG 50-8A ("high" molecular weight) on topical delivery was also determined. Formulations containing PLGA resulted in successful gelation in situ on application over microporated skin. A significantly higher amount of drug was found in the skin with the 0.5 mm treatment for 5 s (892 ± 36 µg/cm²) than with 1 mm for 10 s (167 ± 16 µg/cm²). Hence, the different grades of PLGA were evaluated with 0.5 mm, 5 s treatment, and a significantly larger amount was seen in skin with the higher rather than the lower molecular weight polymer (172 ± 53 µg/cm²).

Look at Your Hair the Way You Look at Your Face: Concept of Total Facial Skin and Hair Care

With today's increasing life expectation and quality of life, the desire to look young and beautiful plays a bigger role than ever. Aging of the hair is particularly visible. And yet, cosmetic dermatology has paid comparatively little attention to the care of the aging hair. The professional market for cosmetic interventions into the face has preceded those into the hair for a number of reasons. First, the market for facial rejuvenation has been dominated by plastic surgeons, until the fillers and botulinum toxin were introduced. Second, investigative dermatology found a profound interest in the study of skin aging, particularly as it relates to ultraviolet exposure, and exposed mechanisms at the level of the DNA and repair mechanisms, opening venues for effective preventive measures and pharmacological treatments of aging-related conditions of the skin. Finally, at the level of health professionals, the care for the skin has been overrated in relation to the hair, mostly due to economic reasons. Nevertheless, the hair represents an integral part of the face and our appearance. Moreover, the discovery of pharmacological targets and the development of safe and effective drugs for treatment of hair loss indicate strategies of the drug industry for maintenance of hair growth and quantity, while the hair care industry has become capable of delivering active compounds directed toward meeting the consumer demand for maintenance of hair cosmesis and quality. To offer patients the best outcomes toward a more youthful look, we therefore should look at the whole face including the condition of the hair for a more comprehensive approach toward a total facial skin and hair care concept.

The Role of Bioactive Compounds and other Metabolites from Mushrooms against Skin Disorders- A Systematic Review Assessing their Cosmeceutical and Nutricosmetic Outcomes

Bioactive compounds derived from mushrooms have been shown to present promising potential as cosmeceutical or nutricosmetic ingredients. Scientific data reviewed herein showed that extracts prepared from medicinal and edible mushrooms and their individual metabolites presented antiinflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, antimicrobial, anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, and anticollagenase activities. These metabolites can be utilised as ingredients to suppress the severity of Inflammatory Skin Diseases, offer photoprotection to the skin, and correct Hyperpigmentation. However, studies regarding the molecular mechanism behind the mentioned bioactivities are still lacking. Challenges associated with the use of mushroom extracts and their associated metabolites as cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic ingredients include several steps from the fruiting bodies to the final product: extraction optimization, estimation of the efficacy and safety claims, the use of micro and nanocarriers to allow for controlled release and the pros and cons associated with the use of extracts vs individual compounds. This systematic review highlights that mushrooms contain diverse biomolecules that can be sustainably used in the development of nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations. Reports regarding stability, compatibility, and safety assessment, but also toxicological studies are still needed to be considered. Furthermore, some of the constraints and limitations hindering the development of this type of ingredients still require long-term studies to achieve major breakthroughs.

Evolution of the use of antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics

OBJECTIVE

Skin health and beauty are a cornerstone of general well-being in humans. Anti-ageing cosmetics are used to provide a healthy and youthful appearance. Among the different cosmetic actives, antioxidants are incorporated in anti-ageing products due to their beneficial effects in preventing and minimizing the signs of skin ageing. This work aims to understand how anti-ageing formulations changed in the past 7 years regarding pure antioxidants composition.

METHODS

Data were collected from anti-ageing formulations commercialized in main stores and pharmacies in the Portuguese market. The study started on 2011 and was updated with products launched or whose composition has been renewed on 2013, 2015 or 2018.

RESULTS

Ascorbic acid and tocopherol and their derivatives were consistently the most used antioxidants in anti-ageing formulations; followed by niacinamide and retinyl palmitate. Seven ascorbic acid derivatives are currently used in anti-ageing formulations while only three tocopherol derivatives were identified in this study. Several combinations of antioxidants were routinely found, mainly tocopherol (or tocopherol derivatives) with other antioxidants and tocopherol with tocopherol derivatives. We have not identified emerging antioxidants with great impact in anti-ageing formulations even though niacinamide and retinyl palmitate exhibited over 10% more usage in 2018.

CONCLUSION

This insight is relevant to the cosmetic industry providing a better understanding of the scientific-based formulation of modern cosmetics and supports the need for innovative antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics.

Innovation Overview of Nanoparticle-Based Dermatological Products: A Patent Study

BACKGROUND

The health area in its most diverse fields has progressively incorporated nanotechnology into its products, such as in dermatology. In this sector, nanoparticles are one of the strategies that allow improvements, both in terms of value-added, as well as the efficacy, safety and stability of products for cosmetic or therapeutic purposes.

OBJECTIVE

To understand the scenario of development and innovation of dermatological products with nanoparticles, through a patent prospection, evaluating the annual evolution, the main technology investors countries, the profile of the depositors, besides the uses and purposes of the products.

METHODS

The Espacenet® database was used for consultation, using the search term "nanoparticle and skin". A total of 285 patents were found, of which 208 were available and 89 were based on the scope.

RESULTS

There was a progressive evolution in the number of patents after the year 2000, with South Korea, the United States, China and Japan as the main depositor countries. Private companies and Education and Research Institutions were the entities with the largest amount of deposits. The cosmetic purpose was the predominant use compared to the therapeutic one. The most prominent nanoparticles were polymeric, metallic and lipid, while the therapeutic area presented a larger number of the functionalized ones.

CONCLUSION

The market for dermatological products has been innovating and growing over the years through the use of nanoparticles, evidencing a prominent development of nanotechnology-based cosmetics. Countries investing in nanotechnology and major developers of innovative products are highlighted in this scenario.

Coenzyme Q10 nanostructured lipid carriers as an inducer of the skin fibroblast cell and its irritability test in a mice model

Background Coenzyme Q10 is a fat-soluble antioxidant that can help to prevent collagen and elastin damage and avoid wrinkles. Coenzyme Q10 has several disadvantages to be formulated in topical dosage forms, such as low water solubility and large molecular weight. These make coenzyme Q10 retained in the stratum corneum and cause low skin penetration, so proper formulation is required to get products that can penetrate the skin layer. A nanostructured lipid carrier (NLC) consists of a matrix of solid lipids and liquid lipids in a certain amount with nanoparticle size; it may help increase the penetration of active ingredients. Methods For the antiaging activity test, mice were grouped into four treatment groups and killed on the 14th day; then the back of the skin was stained with Masson trichrome staining. For the irritation test, the mice were grouped into three groups and killed after 24 h; then the back of the mice was stained with hematoxylin-eosin staining. Results The number of fibroblasts in mice with NLC coenzyme Q10 is highest from all test groups. The irritation test results after 24 h of application preparation showed that NLC coenzyme Q10 did not irritate the skin of the back of male mice. Conclusions One percent coenzyme Q10 loaded in NLC induced the number of fibroblast cells in the mice model and showed no irritability effect in histopathology preparations.

Lamellar liquid crystals maintain keratinocytes' membrane fluidity: An AFM qualitative and quantitative study

Despite extensive investigations of lamellar liquid crystals for dermal application, the effects of these systems at the cellular level are still not well elucidated. The key aim of this study was to determine the elasticity and morphological features of keratinocytes after exposure to a lamellar liquid crystal system (LLCS) using atomic force microscopy (AFM) as the method of choice. Prior to AFM assessment, a cell proliferation test and light plus fluorescence imaging were applied to determine the sub-toxic concentration of LLCS. According to the AFM results, slightly altered morphology was observed in the case of fixed keratinocytes, while an intact morphology was visualized on live cells. From the quantitative study, decreased Young's moduli were determined for fixed cells (i.e., 8.6 vs. 15.2 MPa and 1.3 vs. 2.9 MPa for ethanol or PFA-fixed LLCS-treated vs. control cells, respectively) and live cells (i.e., ranging from 0.6 to 2.8 for LLCS-treated vs. 1.1-4.5 MPa for untreated cells), clearly demonstrating increased cell elasticity. This is related to improved membrane fluidity as a consequence of interactions between the acyl chains of cell membrane phosphatidylcholine and those of LLCS. What seems to be of major importance is that the study confirms the potential clinical relevance of such systems in treatment of aged skin with characteristically more rigid epithelial cells.

Potential role of natural bioactive peptides for development of cosmeceutical skin products

In recent years, consumers' demand for cosmeceutical products with protective and therapeutic functions derived from natural sources have caused this industry to search for alternative active ingredients. Bioactive peptides have a wide spectrum of bioactivities, which make them ideal candidates for development of these cosmeceutical products. In vitro studies have demonstrated that bioactive peptides (obtained as extracts, hydrolysates, and/or individual peptides) exhibit biological properties including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activities, in addition to their properties of inhibiting aging-related enzymes such as elastase, collagenase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase. Some studies report multifunctional bioactive peptides that can simultaneously affect, beneficially, multiple physiological pathways in the skin. Moreover, in vivo studies have revealed that topical application or consumption of bioactive peptides possess remarkable skin protection. These properties suggest that bioactive peptides may contribute in the improvement of skin health by providing specific physiological functions, even though the mechanisms underlying the protective effect have not been completely elucidated. This review provides an overview of in vitro, in silico and in vivo properties of bioactive peptides with potential use as functional ingredients in the cosmeceutical field. It also describes the possible mechanisms involved as well as opportunities and challenges associated with their application.

Anti-Photoaging Effect of Korean Mint (Agastache rugosa Kuntze) Extract on UVB-Irradiated Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation-induced photoaging leads to wrinkles, dryness, and skin roughness. UVB irradiation activates the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and stimulates the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein-1 (AP-1) signaling pathway, which promotes expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and inflammatory cytokines. The current study aimed to assess the anti-photoaging activity of Agastache rugosa extract (ARE) on UVB-treated human dermal fibroblasts. ARE treatment reduced the overproduction of ROS and promoted mRNA expression of anti-oxidant enzymes. ARE treatment significantly inactivated the MAPK/AP-1 signaling pathway, which downregulated the expression of MMPs. Moreover, ARE promoted the production of type-I procollagen and upregulated mRNA expression of collagen genes. Additionally, ARE suppressed the expression of inflammatory cytokines, including interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6, and IL-8, by preventing expression of nuclear factor-kappa B. Collectively, our findings show that ARE could be a potential candidate for anti-photoaging treatment.

Enhancement of exfoliating efficacy of L-carnitine with ion-pair method monitored by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy

Carnitine (CAR), an amino acid derivative, has great potential as a facial exfoliating agent owing to its calcium chelating property under weakly acidic or neutral conditions. However, its application is limited by its poor transdermal penetration. To optimise its exfoliation efficacy with minimal concentration, we propose the ion-pair method. The ionic interaction between CAR and a zwitterionic substance was successfully monitored by measuring conductivity. The alterations of penetration and exfoliation efficacy for CAR addition to different types of counter ions were investigated in vitro and in vivo. We found that hydrogenated soya phosphatidylcholine (HSC), an amphiphilic counter ion, significantly increases the stratum corneum penetration and exfoliation efficacy of CAR. The changes of the CAR-HSC ionic interaction in the presence of calcium ions were also investigated by ¹H nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy. The NMR spectra for amino groups of CAR first decreased with HSC and then gradually recovered and shifted as calcium ions were added. From the results, a noble exfoliating complex of CAR with high exfoliation efficacy could be proposed. Moreover, the results demonstrate that NMR spectroscopy is useful to obtain direct experimental evidence of the molecular dynamics simulations of the alteration of an exfoliating complex as it penetrates.

Human Skin Lightening Efficacy of Resveratrol and Its Analogs: From in Vitro Studies to Cosmetic Applications

Antioxidants are deemed useful in controlling oxidative stress associated with extrinsic skin aging and pigmentation disorders. Resveratrol is a polyphenol compound found in many edible plants such as Vitis vinifera, and its inhibitory effects on the catalytic activity, gene expression, and posttranslational modifications of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the melanin biosynthetic pathway, provide a mechanistic basis for its antimelanogenic effects seen in melanocytic cells, three-dimensionally reconstituted skin models, and in vivo animal models. As a potent antioxidant and a modulator of nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), and sirtuin 1, resveratrol can also regulate multiple signaling pathways associated with inflammation and premature aging. Recent clinical studies have supported the efficacy of resveratrol and its analogs, such as resveratryl triacetate (RTA) and resveratryl triglycolate (RTG), in human skin lightening and antiaging. These findings suggest that resveratrol and its analogs are potentially useful as skin lightening and antiaging agents in cosmetics.

Protective effect of sucupira oil nanoemulsion against oxidative stress in UVA-irradiated HaCaT cells

OBJECTIVES

Bioactive molecules derived from natural products combine the ability to absorb UV light and act as antioxidants. We developed an oil-based sucupira (native species of the Brazilian cerrado) nanoemulsion (NE) using a high-energy emulsification method and assessed its effectiveness in vitro.

METHODS

An easily scalable high-pressure homogenization method was used to prepare the formulation. NE droplets mean diameter, pH, stability, conductivity and morphology were analysed. Formulation bioactivity was assessed using HaCaT cells.

KEY FINDINGS

The formulation presented suitable pH and size for topic administration and was stable for over 90 days upon storage at 4, 25 and 45°C. The NE showed protective effect against oxidative stress and reduced levels of UVA-induced pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and IL-8.

CONCLUSIONS

A novel, stable and easily prepared formulation was obtained for encapsulation of sucupira oil. The protective effect of the formulation by cytokine inhibition in the early stage of the inflammatory process was shown in vitro. Combined with the antioxidant effect by inhibition of reactive oxygen species, the use of sucupira oil NE for prevention and treatment of UVA-induced stress could contribute to decrease the effects of UV radiation on skin ageing.

Relevant Topical Skin Care Products for Prevention and Treatment of Aging Skin

Options for skin care are varied. New products are introduced constantly and it is important for the practitioner to have an understanding of products that impart beneficial results for aging skin. Educating patients to use products with scientifically proven benefits leads to better outcomes. Patients should be encouraged to use daily sunscreen, a topical retinoid every night, and a topical antioxidant daily. Supplementing the routine skin care regimen with alpha hydroxy acids, growth factors, heparin sulfate, and defensins can be addressed individually. Exogenous stem cells do not have sufficient evidence to warrant recommending them currently.

Aging in skin of color

Ethnic skin is quickly emerging as the norm in the United States, and as the population becomes more diverse, there is also a projected rise in the number of aging adults. Given the paucity of data regarding aging in ethnic skin, the authors have consolidated available information for this population. Literature examining structural and functional variation of aging in ethnic skin types was primarily found through PubMed and supplemental textbook chapters. Aging is comprised of two synergistic processes, intrinsic or chronologic aging, and extrinsic aging. Caucasian, African American, East Asian, and Hispanic skin each have distinguishing features of aging, but all populations share dyspigmentation, rhytides, and skin laxity. Increased melanin content predisposes skin of color to a greater degree of hyperpigmentation, but skin thickness may protect against the formation of rhytides. Tailored prevention and treatment are also paramount in attaining favorable outcomes for this growing cohort.

Cecropia pachystachya Leaves Present Potential to Be Used as New Ingredient for Antiaging Dermocosmetics

Several biological activities have been reported for leaf extracts of Cecropia pachystachya species, including antioxidant and wound healing activities. This study aims to report, for the first time, the antiaging potential of the hydroethanolic (HE) and the ethanolic (EE) extracts obtained from the leaves of C. pachystachya using different in vitro assays. Both HE and EE presented relevant antioxidant capacity in different models, including phosphomolybdenum, 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH), carotene/linoleic acid bleaching, and thiobarbituric acid reactive substances (TBARS) assays. Their ability to prevent the production of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) was also evaluated, and both extracts showed important activity, especially HE. The extracts also stimulated the fibroblasts proliferation in vitro, specialized cells that produce several mediators which maintain the skin integrity and youthfulness. Cytotoxicity of the extracts was not observed for this lineage or HEK-293, human embryonic kidney cells widely used to evaluate cytotoxicity of chemical compounds. HE also exhibited the ability to inhibit the collagenase (metalloproteinase MMP-2) and elastase activities. The total phenolic and flavonoids contents were also determined. HPLC analysis revealed the presence of the flavonoids orientin and iso-orientin, which were quantified to be used as chemical markers. The results suggested that the extracts of C. pachystachya leaves present the potential to be used in dermocosmetic formulations to prevent the skin aging process, which attracts the attention of pharmaceutical companies and researchers interested in the development of novel ingredients likely to be used as active principles in antiaging products.