Safety of botanical ingredients in personal care products/cosmetics

Vitis vinifera L. Leaf Extract, a Microbiota Green Ally against Infectious and Inflammatory Skin and Scalp Diseases: An In-Depth Update

The skin microbiota, with its millions of bacteria, fungi, and viruses, plays a key role in balancing the health of the skin and scalp. Its continuous exposure to potentially harmful stressors can lead to abnormalities such as local dysbiosis, altered barrier function, pathobiont overabundance, and infections often sustained by multidrug-resistant bacteria. These factors contribute to skin impairment, deregulation of immune response, and chronic inflammation, with local and systemic consequences. In this scenario, according to the needs of the bio-circular-green economy model, novel harmless strategies, both for regulating the diverse epidermal infectious and inflammatory processes and for preserving or restoring the host skin eubiosis and barrier selectivity, are requested. Vitis vinifera L. leaves and their derived extracts are rich in plant secondary metabolites, such as polyphenols, with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and immunomodulatory properties that can be further exploited through microbe-driven fermentation processes. On this premise, this literature review aims to provide an informative summary of the most updated evidence on their interactions with skin commensals and pathogens and on their ability to manage inflammatory conditions and restore microbial biodiversity. The emerging research showcases the potential novel beneficial ingredients for addressing various skincare concerns and advancing the cosmeceutics field as well.

Analysis and Reporting of Adverse Drug Reactions of Cosmetics at a Tertiary Care Hospital

Background and objectives Cosmetovigilance is a term used for the activities related to the collection, evaluation, and monitoring of spontaneous reports of undesirable events observed during or after normal or reasonably foreseeable use of a cosmetic product. It is now considered a part of the public health system to determine the toxicity of cosmetic products. India has a pharmacovigilance system that monitors adverse drug reactions. Adverse effects due to the use of cosmetic products are undernumbered and a rigorous vigilant system is necessary to check the unmet needs of our country. Hence keeping the above in view, the study was conducted. Material and methods Patients of any gender, aged above 18 years, reporting adverse reactions to cosmetics at the study site were included in the study. The adverse reactions to cosmetics were noted. The causality of the observed adverse cosmetic reactions (ACRs) was done by the European Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (COLIPA) and Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) methods. Results A total of 120 patients were included in the study. The cosmetic products used by the patients were mainly face care products (n=144) followed by make-up care products (n=126). A total of 121 types of ACRs were reported. The majority of the ACRs were caused by products involved in facial care (62; 51.2%) followed by personal care products (20; 16.5%). In the causality assessment of the ACRs using the COLIPA method, 49.4% of patients were categorized as likely, and using the PLM method, 59% of the events were categorized as probable. Conclusion Most of the ACRs were caused by face care products and acne was reported as the most frequently occurring ACR. Awareness programs regarding the reporting of ACRs should be encouraged among cosmetic users and stakeholders.

Recent insights into catechins-rich Assam tea extract for photoaging and senescent ageing

Tea (Camellia spp.) is an important medicinal herb. C. sinensis var. sinensis is the most studied tea variety due to its more preferred flavor than C. sinensis var. assamica (Assam tea), the less economic importance with more bitter variety. A bitter taste highlights its potential as a candidate source for tea catechins, the health beneficial actives applicable for ageing treatment. Nonetheless, indicative data for tea on UV-induced and senescent ageing remain unclarified. Assam tea extract (ATE) was prepared and standardized in terms of TPC, TFC and TTC. EGCG was HPLC quantified as the prime ATE catechin. In vitro antioxidant activity of ATE was exhibited with ABTS, DPPH and FRAP assays. ATE's cellular antioxidant activity was indicated in HDFs at a stronger degree than ascorbic acid. The photoaging protection of ATE was evidenced in a coculture of HaCaT cells and HDFs. ATE markedly suppressed UV-induced IL-6, IL-8, MMP-1 and MMP-9 expressions. The proficiency of ATE targeting on senescent ageing was demonstrated in an ex vivo human skin model, where IL-6 and MMP-1 expressions were suppressed, whilst hyaluronic acid and collagen syntheses were promoted. ATE was chemically stabled as indicated by the catechin contents and color parameters following 6 months storage under conditions recommended for topical product. ATE enriched in catechins warrants its applicability as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent promising for the prevention and treatment for senescent ageing. The findings indicate the proficiency of ATE for innovative anti-ageing agent.

Application of AllerCatPro 2.0 for protein safety assessments of consumer products

Foreign proteins are potentially immunogenic, and a proportion of these are able to induce immune responses that result in allergic sensitization. Subsequent exposure of sensitized subjects to the inducing protein can provoke a variety of allergic reactions that may be severe, or even fatal. It has therefore been recognized for some time that it is important to determine a priori whether a given protein has the potential to induce allergic responses in exposed subjects. For example, the need to assess whether transgene products expressed in genetically engineered crop plants have allergenic properties. This is not necessarily a straightforward exercise (as discussed elsewhere in this edition), but the task becomes even more challenging when there is a need to conduct an overall allergenicity safety assessment of complex mixtures of proteins in botanicals or other natural sources that are to be used in consumer products. This paper describes a new paradigm for the allergenicity safety assessment of proteins that is based on the use of AllerCatPro 2.0, a new version of a previously described web application model developed for the characterization of the allergenic potential of proteins. Operational aspects of AllerCatPro 2.0 are described with emphasis on the application of new features that provide improvements in the predictions of allergenic properties such as the identification of proteins with high allergenic concern. Furthermore, the paper provides a description of strategies of how AllerCatPro 2.0 can best be deployed as a screening tool for identifying suitable proteins as ingredients in consumer products as well as a tool, in conjunction with label-free proteomic analysis, for identifying and semiquantifying protein allergens in complex materials. Lastly, the paper discusses the steps that are recommended for formal allergenicity safety assessment of novel consumer products which contain proteins, including consideration and integration of predicted consumer exposure metrics. The article therefore provides a holistic perspective of the processes through which effective protein safety assessments can be made of potential allergenic hazards and risks associated with exposure to proteins in consumer products, with a particular focus on the use of AllerCatPro 2.0 for this purpose.

Development of a peptide reactivity assay for screening botanicals and natural substances: Proof of concept studies

Consumer products containing botanicals or natural substances (BNS) are often preferred because there is a perception that 'natural' is safe. As with any product ingredient, a thorough safety assessment must be conducted, including a determination of skin sensitization potential. A modification of the Peroxidase Peptide Reactivity Assay (PPRA) was explored for screening BNS (B-PPRA) for their reactivity to a model cysteine peptide. The PPRA incorporates a horseradish peroxidase‑hydrogen peroxide (+HRP/P) oxidation system for the activation of potential pre- and pro-haptens. BNS test materials contained <2% botanical constituent in either glycerin/water or propylene glycol/water. Stock solutions prepared in acetonitrile were diluted to 8 working concentrations. Direct reactivity was determined in reaction mixtures containing peptide and deferoxamine in potassium phosphate buffer. Enzyme-mediated reactivity determinations were performed with addition of +HRP/P. Initial studies demonstrated that results were reproducible and impact of carrier low. To determine the sensitivity of the assay, experiments were conducted with chamomile extract spiked with three sensitizers. Peptide depletion was observed in the +HRP/P reaction mixtures with isoeugenol spikes as low as 0.05%. The B-PPRA shows promise as a screening method for skin sensitization potential and could become part of a framework for the skin sensitization safety assessment of BNS.

Flavonoids as Promising Natural Compounds in the Prevention and Treatment of Selected Skin Diseases

Phytochemicals represent a large and diverse group of naturally occurring compounds, bioactive nutrients, or phytonutrients produced by plants, widely found in fruits, vegetables, whole grains products, legumes, beans, herbs, seeds, nuts, tea, and dark chocolate. They are classified according to their chemical structures and functional properties. Flavonoids belong to the phenolic class of phytochemicals with potential solid pharmacological effects as modulators of multiple signal transduction pathways. Their beneficial effect on the human body is associated with their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimutagenic, and anticarcinogenic properties. Flavonoids are also widely used in various nutritional, pharmaceutical, medical, and cosmetic applications. In our review, we discuss the positive effect of flavonoids on chronic skin diseases such as vitiligo, psoriasis, acne, and atopic dermatitis.

Comparison on Quality Performance of Human Hair Types with Herbal Oils (Grape Seed/Safflower Seed/Rosehip) by Analysis Techniques

Hair is exposed to harmful factors such as sunlight, pollution, cosmetic applications, and cleaning every day. With lost moisture, the hair is worn out, loses shine, and exhibits color changes in the case of dyed hair. In this study, the effects of herbal oils on hair were investigated by comparing the properties with measurements. Three different types of hair were used: natural (unprocessed), damaged, and dyed hair. After washing hair with a base shampoo, herbal oils were applied, and brightness, color changes, elasticity, and breaking points were examined. Safflower seed oil, grape seed oil, and rosehip oil were applied to the samples. It was tried to regain the properties that have decreased as a result of shampoo application in the hair with the applied oils. The highest gloss was observed with grape seed oil, and according to color change calculations, the best result was seen with safflower seed oil. Tensile-strain testing was performed for all samples, and rosehip oil gave the best results. The changes in hair fractures were examined with a scanning electron microscope, and grape seed oil was the best for all hair types. When all analyses were evaluated, the best performing herbal oil was grape seed oil. All analysis results showed that herbal oils can be used in the cosmetics industry with different applications.

Exploring Olive Pomace for Skincare Applications: A Review

The cosmetic industry is continuously searching for new active ingredients in an effort to attend to consumer demands which, in recent years, are focused on more natural and environmentally friendly products, obtained from sustainable resources. Nevertheless, they are required to provide cosmetologically appealing skincare products, ultimately with the purpose of improving skin appearance. The olive oil industry generates a large amount of liquid and semi-solid by-products such as olive pomace. Their phytotoxicity impairs safe disposal, so valorization strategies that promote by-product reuse are needed, which may include skincare products. Hydroxytyrosol is the main phenolic compound present in olive pomace and possesses biological effects that make it a desirable active compound for cosmetic formulations such as antioxidant and anti-aging activities as well as photoprotector, depigmenting, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory actions. Other compounds present in olive pomace can also have functional properties and skin-related benefits. However, the application of this by-product can be a challenge in terms of formulation’s design, stability, and proven efficacy, so appropriate methodologies should be used to validate its incorporation and may include extraction and further encapsulation of bioactive compounds in order to achieve effective and aesthetic appealing skincare products.

Chlorogenic Acids and Caffeine from Coffee By-Products: A Review on Skincare Applications

Upcycling is a modern trend in the cosmetic sector, focusing on by-products reuse and waste reduction. Consumers are more aware of the origin of cosmetic products and their environmental impact, promoting the upcycling phenomenon. Converting these raw materials into products of higher quality or value contributes to the final product’s sustainability. In fact, several agri-food by-products that are typically discarded have generated great interest, due to their value-added compounds with high functionality and/or bioactivity. Coffee is well known as a cosmetic ingredient, particularly due to the presence of phenolic compounds, such as chlorogenic acids, and caffeine. Caffeine is widely used in cosmetic formulations due to its photoprotector and anti-aging properties, as well as lipolytic action in cellulitis, and hair regrowth. Chlorogenic acids are powerful antioxidants and exhibit anti-aging and photoprotector abilities. Coffee by-products, such as coffee beans, possess these bioactive compounds and other chemical characteristics that can provide functional properties in cosmetic formulations. Coffee silverskin and spent coffee grounds are high-volume by-products of the coffee industry. Their use has been explored in different cosmetic formulations demonstrating safety, stability, acceptability as well as skin improvement, thus supporting their valorization as natural and sustainable new ingredients in skincare products.

Herbal nanocosmecuticals: A review on cosmeceutical innovation

BACKGROUND

Cosmeceuticals are drugs, cosmetics, or a combination of both. Cosmeceuticals are personal care products that not only beautify but also need to have healing, therapeutic, and disease-fighting characteristics. For decades, phytocompounds have been employed in cosmeceuticals and have shown potential in applications such as moisturizing, sunscreen, antiaging, and hair-based therapy. The inability of phytocompounds to easily penetrate through the skin and their instability limit their usage in cosmetic products. This can be overcome by incorporating nanotechnology into cosmetic products for a more stable and long-lasting release. Nanotechnology's substantial impact on the cosmetics industry is due to the improved properties attained by particles at the nano scale, such as color, solubility, and transparency. Liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, niosomes, and many varieties of nanoparticulate systems are commonly used in cosmetics. Safety concerns for the usage of nanomaterials in cosmeceuticals have been raised lately, hence causing the restriction on the use of nanomaterials by cosmetic companies and enforcing laws demanding thorough safety testing prior to market entry.

AIM

This review focuses on the types of nanomaterials used in phytocosmetics, along with the potential hazards they pose to human life and the environment, and what legislation has been enacted or can be enacted to address them.

METHODS

For relevant literature, a literature search was conducted using PubMed, ScienceDirect, and Google Scholar. Nanotechnology, cosmeceuticals, herbal cosmetics, and other related topics were researched and evaluated in articles published between 2016 and 2022.

RESULTS

Herbal drugs provide a tremendous range of therapeutic benefits. And when nanoparticles were introduced to the personal care industry, the quality of the final product containing phyto-compounds continued to rise. Unfortunately, because these nano components can permeate intact skin barriers and create unwanted consequences, this revolution comes with a slew of health risks.

CONCLUSION

The cosmeceutical industry's expansion and growth in the application of herbal compounds, as well as the entrance of nanotechnology into the cosmeceuticals business, entail the urgent need for scientific research into their efficacy, safety profile, and use.

Implementation of a dermal sensitization threshold (DST) concept for risk assessment: structure-based DST and in vitro data-based DST

Skin sensitization resulting in allergic contact dermatitis represents an important toxicological endpoint as part of safety assessments. When available substance-specific sensitization data are inadequate, the dermal sensitization threshold (DST) concept has been proposed to set a skin exposure threshold to provide no appreciable risk of skin sensitization. Structure-based DSTs, which include non-reactive, reactive, and high potency category (HPC) DSTs, can be applied to substances with an identified chemical structures. An in vitro data-based "mixture DST" can be applied to mixtures based on data from in vitro test methods, such as KeratinoSens™ and the human Cell Line Activation Test. The purpose of this review article is to discuss the practical use of DSTs for conducting sound sensitization risk assessments to assure the safety of consumer products. To this end, several improvements are discussed in this review. For application of structure-based DSTs, an overall structural classification workflow was developed to exclude the possibility that "HPC but non-reactive" chemicals are misclassified as "non-reactive", because such chemicals should be classified as HPC chemicals considering that HPC rules have been based on the chemical structure of high potency sensitizers. Besides that, an extended application of the mixture DST principle to mixtures that either is cytotoxic or evaluated as positive was proposed. On a final note, we also developed workflows that integrate structure-based and in vitro-based mixture DST. The proposed workflows enable the application of the appropriate DST, which serves as a point of departure in the quantitative sensitization risk assessment.

Consumers' lack of understanding of customized cosmetics made on the spot and implications for regulations and controls

Customized cosmetics immediately made on the spot are now in the market. The present study surveyed 1084 consumers to obtain general insights into their perceptions and perspectives on this novel type of cosmetic. Over half of the total respondents (57.2%) answered they were likely to purchase customized cosmetics; however, a large proportion of consumers also thought microbiological (59.2%)/chemical safety (69.4%) of cosmetics were not good. This reflects consumer anxiety regarding safety issues concerning the customized cosmetics. Even customized cosmetics are regulated by the cosmetic act in each country (i.e., the Cosmetic Act in the Republic of Korea, the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act in the USA, and EC Cosmetic Regulation 1123/2009 in Europe), there have been no specific regulations for customized cosmetics made on the spot worldwide so far. To dispel consumer concerns and establish a principled market for the new cosmetics in the field, proper management plans should be established based on consumer surveys. This study indicated that consumers thought it was important to manage the facility/equipment and safety of raw materials (19.7%, each). We believe this study provides a valuable resource for understanding consumers' perceptions and requirements on customized cosmetics, which contributes to establishing future regulations and guidelines.

Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.

Potential Usage of Edible Mushrooms and Their Residues to Retrieve Valuable Supplies for Industrial Applications

Currently, the food and agricultural sectors are concerned about environmental problems caused by raw material waste, and they are looking for strategies to reduce the growing amount of waste disposal. Now, approaches are being explored that could increment and provide value-added products from agricultural waste to contribute to the circular economy and environmental protection. Edible mushrooms have been globally appreciated for their medicinal properties and nutritional value, but during the mushroom production process nearly one-fifth of the mushroom gets wasted. Therefore, improper disposal of mushrooms and untreated residues can cause fungal disease. The residues of edible mushrooms, being rich in sterols, vitamin D2, amino acids, and polysaccharides, among others, makes it underutilized waste. Most of the published literature has primarily focused on the isolation of bioactive components of these edible mushrooms; however, utilization of waste or edible mushrooms themselves, for the production of value-added products, has remained an overlooked area. Waste of edible mushrooms also represents a disposal problem, but they are a rich source of important compounds, owing to their nutritional and functional properties. Researchers have started exploiting edible mushroom by-products/waste for value-added goods with applications in diverse fields. Bioactive compounds obtained from edible mushrooms are being used in media production and skincare formulations. Furthermore, diverse applications from edible mushrooms are also being explored, including the synthesis of biosorbent, biochar, edible films/coating, probiotics, nanoparticles and cosmetic products. The primary intent of this review is to summarize the information related to edible mushrooms and their valorization in developing value-added products with industrial applications.

Fractions of Concern: Challenges and Strategies for the Safety Assessment of Biological Matter in Cosmetics

Cosmetic ingredients based on more or less refined biological matter (plants, fungi, bacteria, etc.) are gaining popularity. Advances in green chemistry and biotechnology are supporting this general trend further. Following numerous bans on the use of newly generated animal testing data in cosmetic safety assessments, and the worldwide demand for “cruelty-free” products, many alternative methods have been developed to assess the toxicity of ingredients. Whilst great strides have been, and continue to be, made, the area of systemic toxicity is one where international harmonisation and regulatory acceptance is still evolving. A strategy for the fractional assessment of biological matter is suggested to make approaches, such as threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) methodology, fit for purpose. Within this strategy, analytical data are used to generate compound classes which are quantified and assessed separately. Whilst this strategy opens new windows for assessing the safety of complex mixtures with a lack of toxicological data, it also raises awareness of the increasing complexity of cosmetic formulations and the general problem of additivity/synergy being rarely addressed. Extremely complex mixtures are and will be a growing challenge for safety assessors.

Men's Facial Moisturizers in the Metrosexual Era

BACKGROUND

Manufacturers are increasingly branding personal care products (PCPs) specifically for men.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of the study was to characterize ingredients and claims of facial moisturizers marketed to men.

METHODS

Men's facial moisturizers from 7 different online retailers were identified in June-September 2018. Ingredients were grouped and identified per the Ingredient Database of the Personal Care Products Council. Potential allergens were identified using the 2017 American Contact Dermatitis Society (ACDS) Core Allergen Series and 2017-2018 North American Contact Dermatitis Group Screening Series.

RESULTS

Sixty-five men's facial moisturizers were identified with a total of 1930 ingredients. On average, there were 12 ACDS Core and 9 North American Contact Dermatitis Group Screening allergens per product. A total of 70.8% of products contained between 6 and 15 ACDS Core allergens. The most notable allergens were fragrances (present in 98.5% of products), propylene glycol/derivatives (32.3%), parabens (29.2%), and alkyl glucosides (26.2%). Interestingly, less than 10% of products contained the most common allergenic preservatives in PCPs: formaldehyde releasers and methylisothiazolinone.

CONCLUSIONS

Men's facial moisturizers commonly contain fragrances, emulsifiers, and glucosides but relatively few allergenic preservatives. This may reflect changes in modern PCP preservation. These findings are important for modern dermatologists to be aware, especially in a new era of male skincare.

Comparative chemical analysis of Indigenous Nigerian soaps with conventional ones

This study compared the chemical properties of the indigenous Nigerian soaps with the conventional soaps in order to determine whether or not they met acceptable standards. The locally made soaps were obtained from markets in Ile-Ife, Osun State and Okitipupa, Ondo State, Nigeria. The soap samples were acid digested and trace metals (Cd, Pb, Cu, Zn, and Hg) in the digested samples were profiled using Atomic Absorption Spectrometry. Documented techniques were adopted to analyze the soaps for pH, moisture content, free fatty acid, chloride content, free caustic alkali, matters insoluble in water and ethanol. The margin of safety (MoS) and hazard index (HI) associated with the use of the soaps were also evaluated. The locally made soaps had higher physicochemical properties than the conventional soaps. Mercury (Hg) had the highest concentration in the locally made soaps ranging from 106.50 ± 0.23–273.58 ± 0.49 μg/g and 46.35 ± 0.22–55.12 ± 0.65 μg/g in the conventional soaps, while Cd had the least concentration in the locally made soaps ranging from 2.95 ± 0.45–6.05 ± 0.60 μg/g and 2.88 ± 0.11–5.20 ± 0.60 μg/g in the conventional soaps. Although highly mercuric soaps are known to kill bacteria and fungi, the observed MoS (<100) and HI (>1) indicated that the soaps might be safe if only restricted to occasional use by adults and children. A careful preliminary investigation and selection of the raw materials used in the production of indigenous soaps should be considered a necessary step.

Impact of Susceptibility to Global Consumer Culture on Commitment and Loyalty in Botanic Cosmetic Brands

Given that the market is becoming more competitive, it is imperative to understand what influences purchasing decisions of global consumers as consumer trends change regarding botanic cosmetics for anti-aging, maintaining appearance and skin health. This study considers and examines susceptibility to global consumer culture (SGCC) (conformity to consumer trend, social prestige, and quality perception) and its effect on affective commitment, which in turn influences behavioral commitment and loyalty in the context of the botanic cosmetic industry. In addition to examining the structural relationships among the variables, we test whether purchase experience moderates the proposed relationships. The results are as follows. First, conformity to consumer trends has a significant effect on emotional commitment, but is not positively associated with behavioral commitment. Second, social prestige has no significant direct effect on either emotional or behavioral commitment. Third, quality perception has a significant impact on emotional commitment, but no positive impact on behavioral commitment. Fourth, both emotional commitment and behavioral commitment affect brand loyalty, and behavioral commitment in particular has a significant effect on brand loyalty. Finally, through the analysis of the moderating effect on the cosmetic purchasing experience, first, it was confirmed that the less purchasing experience, the stronger the effect of conformity to consumption trend (CCT) on emotional commitment and behavioral commitment.

An in vitro human assay for evaluating immunogenic and sensitization potential of a personal care and cosmetic product

With the reduction or elimination of animal testing, manufacturers are left with limited options, as few robust in vitro tests are available and human studies are costly. Recently, concerns have been raised regarding potential adverse health effects associated with use of WEN by Chaz Dean (WCD) cleansing conditioners. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the immunogenic potential of a WCD hair cleansing conditioner by utilizing a novel in vitro human skin explant test. Peripheral blood mononuclear cells (PBMCs) and human skin biopsies were obtained from healthy volunteers. Monocyte derived dendritic cells (MoDCs) were generated, primed by 0.01% WCD cleansing conditioner exposure for 24 h, co-cultured with autologous lymphocytes for 4 days, and then cultured with skin biopsies for 3 days. The skin biopsies then underwent histopathological evaluation, and T cell proliferation and IFNγ levels were determined. Overall, this study showed that treatment with 0.01% WCD cleansing conditioner resulted in a negative prediction for in vivo immune response. Further, this analysis shows that the skin explant test is a viable alternative to animal testing for complex mixtures or commercially available products.

Lipid composition and antioxidant activities of some underused wild plants seeds from Burundi

Fatty acids, phytosterols, total phenolic content, and radical-scavenging activity were determined in seed oils of 12 wild plants from natural ecosystems in Burundi. Among the 13 fatty acids identified, palmitic, oleic, linoleic, and stearic acids were found predominant throughout all oils, except Parinari curatellifolia oil which showed a high amount of erucic acid (58.41% ± 0.77). The most dominant sterol was found to be β-sitosterol in all oils and was followed by stigmasterol in 8 kinds of oils and campesterol in 3 kinds of oils. The highest total phenolic contents were observed in P. curatellifolia, Tephrosia vogelii, and Uvaria angolensis oils, with, respectively, 2.16 ± 0.26, 1.43 ± 0.33, and 1.27 ± 0.39 mg gallic acid equivalent/g oil. Some of these oils exhibited a higher ability to scavenge DPPH radicals. The antioxidant capacity of 8 species ranged from 1.18 to 18.08 mmol acid ascorbic equivalent/g oil. Based on these findings, such oils could be used in different domains such as food, cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and lipochemistry.

Excito-repellency and biological safety of β-caryophyllene oxide against Aedes albopictus and Anopheles dirus (Diptera: Culicidae)

The activity of β-caryophyllene oxide as either a contact or noncontact repellent was evaluated against two laboratory strains (Aedes albopictus and Anopheles dirus) using an excito-repellency test system. N, N-Diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (DEET) was used as a standard reference baseline for comparative purposes. β-Caryophyllene oxide and DEET were tested at concentrations of 0.1, 0.25, 0.5 and 1.0% (v/v). In addition, the phototoxic and genotoxic effects of β-caryophyllene oxide were investigated on Balb/c 3T3 mouse fibroblasts (3T3-L1) and Chinese hamster ovary cell line (CHO-K1). The results demonstrated that the higher concentrations of test compounds (0.5 and 1.0%) produced greater behavioral responses. Aedes albopictus was more sensitive to β-caryophyllene oxide than An. dirus. Moderate avoidance response rates (25-56% escape) of Ae. albopictus at 0.5% and 1.0% β-caryophyllene oxide were observed in contact and noncontact trials compared with low response rates from An. dirus (26-31% escape). DEET at ≤1% displayed lower irritancy and repellency (1-38%) than β-caryophyllene oxide when tested against the two mosquito species. Knockdown responses (37%) were only observed in An. dirus exposed to 1% β-caryophyllene oxide in the contact trial. β-Caryophyllene oxide did not show any phototoxic potential (PIF= 0.38) nor was there any significant genotoxic response as indicated by no increase in micro-nucleated cells with or without metabolic activation. β-Caryophyllene oxide could be considered as a safe repellent, effective against mosquitoes.

Herbal-Based Cosmeceuticals and Economic Sustainability among Women in South African Rural Communities

Access to natural resources in the immediate environment is an essential factor that contributes to livelihood in many rural areas. In the current study, we explored the economic potential(s) of the natural herbal-based cosmetic and cosmeceutical enterprise for the welfare of the Vhavenda women. A purposive sampling technique was used to collect data from 79 Vhavenda women and analysed with descriptive and inferential statistics (Tobit regression) as well as budgeting analysis. The majority (61%) of the participants were married with an average household size of five members. Additionally, 39% of the participants were already ageing with an average age-group of 56–70 years. The majority (44%) of the participants were not formally employed while the monthly average total income of R1841.01 (107.37 USD) was recorded with an average per capital expenditure of R1438.42 (83.89 USD). A budgeting cost ratio of 1.28 was recorded, which indicates that for every R1.00 (0.057 USD) invested in the herbal-based cosmetic and cosmeceutical production, an expected return of R1.28 (0.073 USD) was forecasted. Tobit regression results indicated that the determinants of the income of participants were experience level (p < 0.01), religion affiliation (p < 0.05) and consumption expenditure (p < 0.01) among others. Thus, a conscious, introspective and intentional look into this marginalised herbal-based cosmetic and cosmeceutical enterprise as a panacea for improved income and welfare of rural South Africans should be considered.

Oral rinses in growth inhibition and treatment of Helicobacter pylori infection

BACKGROUND

Helicobacter pylori (H. pylori) is well-known for its role in chronic gastritis and gastric cancer. Eradication of these carcinogenic bacteria from the gut is one of the challenges for clinicians. The complexity of treatment mainly owes to antibiotic resistance and relapse due to an additional reservoir in the oral cavity. Our study emphases the isolation of H. pylori from distinct habitats of the gut microenvironment (gastric biopsy and gastric juice) and its subsequent characterization. We have also evaluated the effect of various oral rinses on isolated H. pylori from different anatomical locations of included subjects.

RESULTS

The possible strains isolated from two different habitats of the same subject shows a striking difference in their growth pattern. Promisingly, some of the included oral rinses are efficient in growth inhibition as per recommended 30 s treatment. The subsequent evaluation shows that oral rinse B (among A-E) is most effective and down-regulates the expression of one of the potent H. pylori gene, CagA, in the infected gastric adenocarcinoma (AGS) cells.

CONCLUSION

Our study, for the first time, revealed that H. pylori, isolated from the different habitat of the same subject, show a different growth pattern. The expression of H. pylori pathogenic gene (CagA) was down-regulated by the use of oral rinses. Hence, oral rinses will reduce the H. pylori in the oral cavity and help to control its migration from oral to the gastric compartment and may be used as an adjuvant treatment option for its re-infection.

Prosopis juliflora as a new cosmetic ingredient: Development and clinical evaluation of a bioactive moisturizing and anti-aging innovative solid core

Prosopis juliflora is an invasive plant distributed throughout the world and presents metabolites of interest for cosmetology. The aim of this work was to develop a new polysaccharide-based ingredient from P. juliflora and analyze its application in a solid core formulation that upon contact with water instantly forms a gel to improve moisturizing and anti-aging skin properties. Purified extracts by gel chromatography were characterized by NMR and LC-DAD-MS-MS. The in vitro and in vivo safety, antioxidant activity, formulation development and clinical evaluation were performed. The extract was characterized as containing an α-glucan and phenolics. It was non-cytotoxic, non-phototoxic and no skin reactions were observed in vivo. Antioxidant activity were present through different mechanisms. Clinical evaluation reinforced the potential of P. juliflora in skin hydration and microrelief improvement. This innovative form proved to be a prototype of a new product and the first study of an α-glucan as a cosmetic ingredient.

Phototoxicity Evaluation of Hair Cleansing Conditioners

Photoactivation of cosmetic products and/or their ingredients may be associated with adverse skin reactions. Concerns have been raised regarding potential adverse health effects associated with the use of WEN by Chaz Dean (WCD) hair-cleansing conditioners, including alleged symptoms of redness, burning sensation, and irritation. The objective of this study was to use a validated phototoxicity test to evaluate the phototoxic potential of WCD hair-cleansing conditioners, and to demonstrate this assay’s applicability to personal care and cosmetic products. Balb/c 3T3 mouse fibroblast cells were exposed to the test articles for one hour. Following the incubation, one set of treated 3T3 cells were irradiated with 5 J/cm2 Solar Simulated Light (SSL), while a duplicate set of treated 3T3 cells were kept in the dark. After UV irradiation, cell viability was determined by neutral red uptake. The difference in cell viability between the SSL exposed and non-exposed 3T3 cells were used to determine the phototoxic potential of the test articles. Under the conditions tested, WCD hair-cleansing conditioners were not phototoxic, while the positive control was significantly phototoxic. Taken together, these results demonstrate that that the use of WCD hair-cleansing conditioners would not be expected to cause phototoxicity in consumers.

Safety Assessment of Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten as Used in Cosmetics

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Panel) reviewed the product use, formulation, and safety data on hydrolyzed wheat protein and hydrolyzed wheat gluten, which function as skin- and hair-conditioning agents. The Panel determined that data from clinical and laboratory studies were sufficient to demonstrate that these ingredients will not elicit type 1 immediate hypersensitivity reactions in sensitized individuals and will not induce sensitization when the polypeptide lengths of the hydrolysates do not exceed 30 amino acids. The Panel concluded that hydrolyzed wheat gluten and hydrolyzed wheat protein are safe for use in cosmetics when formulated to restrict peptides to an average molecular weight of 3,500 Da or less.

The dermal sensitization threshold (DST) approach for mixtures evaluated as negative in in vitro test methods; mixture DST

Cosmetic ingredients often comprise complex mixtures, such as botanical extracts, which may contain skin sensitizing constituents. In our previous study for the sensitivity of the evaluations of skin sensitizing constituents in mixtures using the binary in vitro test battery with KeratinoSens^TM and h-CLAT, some sensitizers showed higher detection limits in in vitro test methods than in murine local lymph node assays (LLNA). Thus, to minimize the uncertainty associated with decreased sensitivity for these sensitizers, a risk assessment strategy was developed for mixtures with negative results from the binary test battery. Assuming that the no expected sensitization induction level of mixtures (mixture NESIL) can be derived for mixtures with negative in vitro test results, we assessed 146 sensitizers with in vitro and LLNA data according to the assumption of indeterminate constituents in mixtures. Finally, we calculated 95th percentile probabilities of mixture NESILs and derived dermal sensitization thresholds for mixtures (mixture DST) with negative in vitro test results of 6010 μg/cm². Feasibility studies indicated that this approach was practical for risk assessments of products in the cosmetic industry. This approach would be a novel risk assessment strategy for incorporating the DST approach and information from in vitro test methods.

Sensitivity of KeratinoSensTM and h-CLAT for detecting minute amounts of sensitizers to evaluate botanical extract

Cosmetic ingredients are often complex mixtures from natural sources such as botanical extracts that might contain minute amounts of constituents with sensitizing potential. The sensitivity of in vitro skin sensitization test methods such as KeratinoSens^TM and h-CLAT for the detection of minute amounts of sensitizer in mixtures remains unclear. In this study, we assessed the detection sensitivity of the binary test battery comprising KeratinoSens^TM and h-CLAT for minute amounts of sensitizers by comparing the LLNA EC3 (estimated concentration of a substance expected to produce a stimulation index of 3) values to the minimum detection concentrations (MDCs) exceeding the positive criteria for each of the two in vitro test methods. 146 sensitizers with both sets of in vitro data and LLNA data were used. MDC values for KeratinoSens^TM and h-CLAT were calculated from exposure concentrations exceeding positive criteria for each in vitro test method (EC1.5 and minimum induction thresholds, respectively). The dilution rate used to expose culture medium was also considered. For 86% of analyzed sensitizers, the in vitro test methods showed MDC values lower than LLNA EC3 values, suggesting that the binary test battery with KeratinoSens^TM and h-CLAT have greater sensitivity for detection of minute amounts of sensitizer than LLNA. These results suggest the high applicability of KeratinoSens^TM and h-CLAT for detecting skin sensitizing constituents present in botanical extract.

Adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products on the face vary with age, but not with sex

BACKGROUND

Adverse skin reactions to skin care products have been increasing in recent years. However, to date, these reactions have not been well characterized.

OBJECTIVE

To describe the symptoms, clinical signs and frequency of adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products on the face in males vs females of various ages.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

All outpatients diagnosed with adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products on the face examined by dermatologists at the Dermatology Hospital of South Medical University between November 1, 2016 and October 31, 2017, employing a questionnaire and an interview, were eligible. The associations of adverse cutaneous reactions with age and sex were analysed.

RESULTS

A total of 433 outpatients, accounting for 0.12% of all outpatients, were assessed. Of these, 223 patients, including 204 females and 19 males, aged 4 to 75 years, were eventually diagnosed with adverse reactions to skin care products on the face. Eighty-two per cent of patients experienced pruritus, 80% showed erythema, and 48% showed visible swelling. The incidence rates of both xerosis and oedema correlated positively with age, whereas acne-like lesions were negatively associated with age, but not with sex.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results indicate that pruritus, xerosis and erythema are common adverse cutaneous reactions to facial skin care products. These reactions vary with age, but not with sex. Vigorous safety testing should precede the marketing of skin care products.

Optimization of Antioxidant and Skin-Whitening Compounds Extraction Condition from Tenebrio molitor Larvae (Mealworm)

Skin-whitening ingredients are a very important part of the development of functional cosmetics and a wide variety of raw materials are used. Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in the animal melanogenic pathway that is the rate-limiting step for the production of melanin. Several synthetic and naturally occurring tyrosinase inhibitors have been studied for skin-whitening. The development of natural agents is becoming more important due to the disadvantages of synthetics such as high cytotoxicity, insufficient penetration power, and low activity. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the total phenol content (TPC), antioxidant, and tyrosinase inhibition activity of mealworm (Tenebrio molitor larvae) extract, and the subsequent optimization of the extraction condition using statistically-based optimization. The major extraction variables extraction temperature, time, and ethanol concentration were optimized using response surface methodology (RSM). The results showed that optimum extraction temperature of 88.1 °C, extraction time of 43.7 min, and ethanol concentration of 72.0 v/v%, provided the predicted maximum levels of total phenolic compounds (TPC) of 5.41 mg GAE/g dry weight (DW) and tyrosinase inhibition activity (TIA) of 82.4%. From the validation experiment, 5.61 ± 0.2 mg GAE/g dry weight (DW), tyrosinase inhibition of 79.6 ± 3.3%, and radical scavenging activity of 91.8 ± 5.1 μg/mL were found and showed to be very similar to the predicted values. These results suggest that mealworm has great potential as a source of bioactive compounds which could be used as cosmetics, food, and pharmaceutical agents.

Cosmetics Preservation: A Review on Present Strategies

Cosmetics, like any product containing water and organic/inorganic compounds, require preservation against microbial contamination to guarantee consumer’s safety and to increase their shelf-life. The microbiological safety has as main goal of consumer protection against potentially pathogenic microorganisms, together with the product’s preservation resulting from biological and physicochemical deterioration. This is ensured by chemical, physical, or physicochemical strategies. The most common strategy is based on the application of antimicrobial agents, either by using synthetic or natural compounds, or even multifunctional ingredients. Current validation of a preservation system follow the application of good manufacturing practices (GMPs), the control of the raw material, and the verification of the preservative effect by suitable methodologies, including the challenge test. Among the preservatives described in the positive lists of regulations, there are parabens, isothiasolinone, organic acids, formaldehyde releasers, triclosan, and chlorhexidine. These chemical agents have different mechanisms of antimicrobial action, depending on their chemical structure and functional group’s reactivity. Preservatives act on several cell targets; however, they might present toxic effects to the consumer. Indeed, their use at high concentrations is more effective from the preservation viewpoint being, however, toxic for the consumer, whereas at low concentrations microbial resistance can develop.

Identification of Novel Melanin Synthesis Inhibitors From Crataegus pycnoloba Using an in Vivo Zebrafish Phenotypic Assay

Zebrafish has emerged as a powerful model organism for high throughput drug screening. Several morphological criteria, transgenic lines and in situ expression screens have been developed to identify novel bioactive compounds and their mechanism of action. Here, we used the inhibition of melanogenesis during early zebrafish embryo development to identify natural compounds that block melanogenesis. We identified an extract from the Greek hawthorn Crataegus pycnoloba as a potent inhibitor of melanin synthesis and used activity based subfractionation to identify active subfractions and eventually three single compounds of the same family (dibenzofurans). These compounds show reversible inhibition of melanin synthesis and do not act via inhibition of tyrosinase. We also showed that they do not interfere with neural crest differentiation or migration. We identified via in silico modeling that the compounds can bind to the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR) and verified activation of the Ahr signaling pathway showing the induction of the expression of target genes.

Skin hyperpigmentation treatment using herbs: A review of clinical evidences

Hyperpigmentation of skin is caused by several factors. UV exposure, in addition to oxidative stress, elevates inflammatory mediators stimulating melanogenesis. Herbal-derived compounds for improving skin lightness are gaining interest as they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier than fully synthetic products. This review briefly addresses the causes of skin hyperpigmentation and extensively summarizes the status of herbs currently used in skin-lightening cosmetics. The properties of active compounds and their dose rate information are summarized where available, along with human or animal relevant models for activity testing. This review will be of value to cosmetic formulators and dermatologists who are searching for naturally derived ingredients for improving skin lightness, in line with consumer preference and expectations.

Preparation and efficacy assessment of malva nut polysaccharide for skin hydrating products

INTRODUCTION

Scaphium scaphigerum or malva nut has long been served in Chinese medicine. However, the use of this herb in modern health care applications has, to date, been rarely reported.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Maceration of the herb in water afforded malva nut polysaccharide which was standardized. Safety and skin hydrating efficacy of the polysaccharide and products were evaluated in human volunteers.

RESULTS

Malva nut polysaccharide (41.71±0.64%) having 36.58±0.51% total sugar content was isolated, with further analysis quantifying ash, carbohydrate, reducing sugar and moisture contents to be 6.05±0.00, 40.06±1.00, 12.20±0.05 and 12.64±0.31%, respectively. The polysaccharide exhibited swelling and hydrating capacities of 0.46±0.01% and 54.46±0.02g/g, with L*, a* and b* of 52.56±0.04, 9.02±0.06 and 18.42±0.03, respectively, and a viscosity of 1263.00±2.00 cps. Accelerated testing indicated the biopolysaccharide to be stable, resulting in no skin irritation in 15 human volunteers. The skin hydrating efficacy as assessed via a randomized single-blind, placebo-controlled study in 24 volunteers highlighted the superior performance of malva nut over the vehicle (moisture retainment for 70min as examined by Corneometer^® CM 825). A stable skin moisturizing gel containing malva nut was developed and was shown to exhibit improved performance over benchmark tamarind and algae polysaccharide gels (after 180min observation).

CONCLUSION

Malva nut polysaccharide has potential as a key ingredient in skin hydrating products, which should encourage its further development.

Jasmine rice panicle: A safe and efficient natural ingredient for skin aging treatments

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

While rice is one of the most important global staple food sources its extracts have found many uses as the bases of herbal remedies. Rice extracts contain high levels of phenolic compounds which are known to be bioactive, some of which show cutaneous benefits and activity towards skin disorders. This study highlights an assessment of the cellular activity and clinical efficacy of rice panicle extract, providing necessary information relevant to the development of new cosmetic products.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Jasmine rice panicle extract was standardized, and the level of phenolics present was determined. In vitro anti-aging, and extract activity towards melanogenesis was conducted in B16F10 melanoma cells, and antioxidant activity was assessed in human skin fibroblast cell cultures. Topical product creams containing the extract were developed, and skin irritation testing using a single application closed patch test method was done using 20 Thai volunteers. Randomized double-blind, placebo-controlled efficacy evaluation was undertaken in 24 volunteers over an 84d period, with the results monitored by Corneometer^® CM 825, Cutometer^® MPA 580, Mexameter^® MX 18 and Visioscan^® VC 98.

RESULTS

Jasmine rice panicle extract was shown to have a high content of p-coumaric, ferulic and caffeic acids, and was not cytotoxic to the cell lines used in this study. Cells treated with extract suppressed melanogenesis via tyrosinase and TRP-2 inhibitory effects, which protect the cell from oxidative stress at doses of 0.1mg/ml or lower. The jasmine rice panicle preparations (0.1-0.2%) were safe (MII=0), and significantly (p<0.05) increased skin hydration levels relative to baseline. Skin lightening, and anti-wrinkle effects related to skin firmness and smoothness were observed, in addition to a reduction in skin wrinkling. Improvements in skin biophysics of both 0.1% and 0.2% extracts were showed to be comparable (p>0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

Jasmine rice panicle extract having high levels of phenolics shows cutaneous benefits as the basis for skin aging treatments, as indicated through in vitro cytotoxicity assessments and skin testing in human subjects.

A quantitative ethnobotanical survey of phytocosmetics used in the tropical island of Mauritius

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

With a net turnover worth of £181 billion, the cosmetic industry is a leading worldwide business with a very lucrative future. Nonetheless, due to recent concerns regarding toxicity of synthetic cosmetics, herbal products have come into the limelight of cosmetology. The tropical island of Mauritius has a well-anchored diversity of indigenous plant species which are exploited for various purposes but no study has been designed to (i) quantitatively document, (ii) assess the effectiveness, and (iii) study the incidence of adverse effects and perception associated with the use of herbal products for cosmetic applications.

METHOD

Data was collected from herbal users via face-to-face interviews using semi-structured questionnaire. Quantitative ethnobotanical indices (fidelity level (FL), variety of use (VU) and relative frequency of citation (RFC)) were calculated.

RESULTS

Twenty five herbs belonging to 21 families were recorded in use for 29 different cosmetics applications. Many of the documented species represented well-known plants, although we also recorded a few plants being exploited for new cosmetic applications. Plants with the highest RFC were Curcuma longa L. (0.45), Lawsonia inermis L. (0.42) and Aloe vera (L.) Burm.f. (0.42). A total of 8 plants were reported to score 100% with respect to the FL. Interestingly, Lawsonia inermis L. being the highly cited plant species showed a clear dominance as a popular phytocosmetic and which has also been extensively documented for its pharmacological properties. Moreover, it was found that 25% of the respondents experienced adverse effects; with pruritus (11%) being the most reported condition. It was also observed that participants perceived herbs/herbal products to be free from adverse effects.

CONCLUSION

Most of the plants reported have been described in previous studies for their bioactive components which tend to justify their use as phytocosmetics. Further research should be geared to explore the potential of these plant products for the cosmetic industry.