SPF enhancement provided by rutin in a multifunctional sunscreen

Advancements in sunscreen formulations: integrating polyphenolic nanocarriers and nanotechnology for enhanced UV protection

Sunscreens are essential in protecting the skin from harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These formulations, designed to absorb, block, or scatter UVR, offer vital protection against skin aging, sunburns, and the development of skin cancers like melanomas. However, some sunscreens, especially those containing organic/chemical compounds, can cause allergic reactions. To address this, researchers are extensively investigating formulations that incorporate plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as flavonoids and carotenoids, which can be considered safer alternatives. Products derived from plants are commonly used in cosmetics to counteract skin aging due to their antioxidant activity that combat harmful free radicals. This review focuses on evaluating the advancements in chemical and natural sunscreens, exploring the integration of polyphenolic nanocarriers within sunscreen formulas, their interaction with UVR, and utilizing nanotechnology to enhance their effectiveness. An attempt has been made to highlight the concerns related to toxicity associated with their use and notable advancements in the regulatory aspects governing their utilization.

Tartary buckwheat rutin: Accumulation, metabolic pathways, regulation mechanisms, and biofortification strategies

Rutin is a significant flavonoid with strong antioxidant property and various therapeutic effects. It plays a crucial role in disease prevention and human health maintenance, especially in anti-inflammatory, antidiabetic, hepatoprotective and cardiovascular effects. While many plants can synthesize and accumulate rutin, tartary buckwheat is the only food crop possessing high levels of rutin. At present, the rutin content (RC) is regarded as the key index for evaluating the nutritional quality of tartary buckwheat. Consequently, rutin has become the focus for tartary buckwheat breeders and has made considerable progress. Here, we summarize research on the rutin in tartary buckwheat in the past two decades, including its accumulation, biosynthesis and breakdown pathways, and regulatory mechanisms. Furthermore, we propose several strategies to increase the RC in tartary buckwheat seeds based on current knowledge. This review aims to provide valuable references for elevating the quality of tartary buckwheat in the future.

Myconoside and Calceolarioside E Restrain UV-Induced Skin Photoaging by Activating NRF2-Mediated Defense Mechanisms

Chronic and excessive ultraviolet (UVA/UVB) irradiation exposure is known as a major contributor to premature skin aging, which leads to excessive reactive oxygen species generation, disturbed extracellular matrix homeostasis, DNA damage, and chronic inflammation. Sunscreen products are the major preventive option against UVR-induced photodamage, mostly counteracting the acute skin effects and only mildly counteracting accelerated aging. Therefore, novel anti-photoaging and photopreventive compounds are a subject of increased scientific interest. Our previous investigations revealed that the endemic plant Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. (HRE) activates the antioxidant defense through an NRF2-mediated mechanism in neutrophiles. In the present study, we aimed to investigate the photoprotective potential of HRE and two of its specialized compounds-the phenylethanoid glycosides myconoside (MYC) and calceolarioside E (CAL)-in UVA/UVB-stimulated human keratinocytes in an in vitro model of photoaging. The obtained data demonstrated that the application of HRE, MYC, and CAL significantly reduced intracellular ROS formation in UVR-exposed HaCaT cells. The NRF2/PGC-1α and TGF-1β/Smad/Wnt signaling pathways were pointed out as having a critical role in the observed CAL- and MYC-induced photoprotective effect. Collectively, CAL is worth further evaluation as a potent natural NRF2 activator and a promising photoprotective agent that leads to the prevention of UVA/UVB-induced premature skin aging.

Protective Mechanisms of Polyphenol-Enriched Blueberry Preparation in Preventing Inflammation in the Skin against UVB-Induced Damage in an Animal Model

UVB significantly impacts the occurrence of cutaneous disorders, ranging from inflammatory to neoplastic diseases. Polyphenols derived from plants have been found to exhibit photoprotective effects against various factors that contribute to skin cancer. During the fermentation of the polyphenol-enriched blueberry preparation (PEBP), small oligomers of polyphenols were released, thus enhancing their photoprotective effects. This study aimed to investigate the protective effects of PEBP on UVB-induced skin inflammation. Topical preparations of polyphenols were applied to the skin of dorsally shaved mice. Mice were subsequently exposed to UVB and were sacrificed 90 min after UVB exposure. This study revealed that pretreatment with PEBP significantly inhibited UVB-induced recruitment of mast and neutrophil cells and prevented the loss of skin thickness. Furthermore, the findings show that PEBP treatment resulted in the downregulation of miR-210, 146a, and 155 and the upregulation of miR-200c and miR-205 compared to the UVB-irradiated mice. Additionally, PEBP was found to reduce the expression of IL-6, IL-1β, and TNFα, inhibiting COX-2 and increasing IL-10 after UVB exposure. Moreover, DNA methylation analysis indicated that PEBP might potentially reduce the activation of inflammation-related pathways such as MAPK, Wnt, Notch, and PI3K-AKT signaling. Our finding suggests that topical application of PEBP treatment may effectively prevent UVB-induced skin damage by inhibiting inflammation.

Use of sisal industrial waste (Agave sisalana Perrine) in sustainable and multifunctional cosmetic products

OBJECTIVE

Sisal is a common stiff fibre produced around the world, corresponding to approximately 70% of the commercial production of all fibres of this type. The fibres are extracted from the leaves of Agave sisalana, from which approximately 4% of their weight is obtained, with the remaining 96% considered to be residues from the process of the sisal industry. The objective of this work was to obtain a polyphenol-enriched extract from the A. sisalana residue by ultrasonically assisted extraction, characterize it chemically, evaluate in vitro antioxidant activity, and develop safe and stable photoprotective formulations for future application in cosmetic preparations.

METHODS

Ultrasonic extraction of solid plant material was performed using 50% ethanol/water (v/v). The extract was chemically characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography equipment associated with classical molecular networking and evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity by different methodologies. Ten formulations were prepared, varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The 1.0% sisal extract was incorporated into the most stable formulations, and preliminary and accelerated stability were evaluated. The emulsions were investigated for safety by assessment of primary accumulated dermal irritability and sensitization and a dermatological clinical study of phototoxicity and photosensitization. The photoprotective formulations containing or not containing the extract that were stable after 90 days had their in vivo sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined.

RESULTS

Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as an extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a concentration of phenolic compounds (77.93 mg of equivalent to the standard gallic acid/g) and showed in vitro antioxidant activity. Emulsions without and with 1.0% sisal extract remained stable and safe. The addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract and offered protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelengths, and absorption of visible and blue light.

CONCLUSION

Based on the findings, the solid residue of A. sisalana may be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.

Rutin: Family Farming Products' Extraction Sources, Industrial Applications and Current Trends in Biological Activity Protection

In vitro and in vivo studies have demonstrated the bioactivity of rutin, a dietary flavonol naturally found in several plant species. Despite widespread knowledge of its numerous health benefits, such as anti-inflammatory, antidiabetic, hepatoprotective and cardiovascular effects, industrial use of rutin is still limited due to its low solubility in aqueous media, the characteristic bitter and astringent taste of phenolic compounds and its susceptibility to degradation during processing. To expand its applications and preserve its biological activity, novel encapsulation systems have been developed. This review presents updated research on the extraction sources and methodologies of rutin from fruit and vegetable products commonly found in a regular diet and grown using family farming approaches. Additionally, this review covers quantitative analysis techniques, encapsulation methods utilizing nanoparticles, colloidal and heterodisperse systems, as well as industrial applications of rutin.

Development of multifunctional sunscreens: Evaluation of physico-mechanical and film-forming properties

The exposome consists of several factors such as solar radiation and pollution, which can provoke skin damage and lead to premature skin aging. Thus, the use of multifunctional sunscreens is critical in order to prevent this damage. In addition, film formation is very important to reach the expected SPF. Within this context, the objective of the present study was to develop and evaluate the in vivo SPF, sensory, physico-mechanical, and film-forming properties of sunscreens containing a biopolymer from Tara and red algae. A clinical study of the film-forming effect and of skin hydration was performed by instrumental measurements and by biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The SPF of both formulations, with or without the biopolymer, was 45.6. This result was 10.09% higher than expected. higher than expected. However, the sunscreen added to the biopolymer showed better sensory and texture properties, significantly increased skin hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss. The film-forming property was observed by the analysis of Reflectance Confocal Microscopy images 2, 4, and 6 h after formulation application, and this result was more pronounced for the sunscreen added to the biopolymer. Thus, the film-forming property of the biopolymer was important for prolonging the skin barrier function due to film formation and to obtain more effective and multifunctional sunscreens that provide longer protection.

Drug Delivery Strategies for Avobenzone: A Case Study of Photostabilization

Several developments and research methods are ongoing in drug technology and chemistry research to elicit effectiveness regarding the therapeutic activity of drugs along with photoprotection for their molecular integrity. The detrimental effect of UV light induces damaged cells and DNA, which leads to skin cancer and other phototoxic effects. The application of sunscreen shields to the skin is important, along with recommended UV filters. Avobenzone is widely used as a UVA filter for skin photoprotection in sunscreen formulations. However, keto-enol tautomerism propagates photodegradation into it, which further channelizes the phototoxic and photoirradiation effects, further limiting its use. Several approaches have been used to counter these issues, including encapsulation, antioxidants, photostabilizers, and quenchers. To seek the gold standard approach for photoprotection in photosensitive drugs, combinations of strategies have been implemented to identify effective and safe sunscreen agents. The stringent regulatory guidelines for sunscreen formulations, along with the availability of limited FDA-approved UV filters, have led many researchers to develop perfect photostabilization strategies for available photostable UV filters, such as avobenzone. From this perspective, the objective of the current review is to summarize the recent literature on drug delivery strategies implemented for the photostabilization of avobenzone that could be useful to frame industrially oriented potential strategies on a large scale to circumvent all possible photounstable issues of avobenzone.

The Impact of Flavonoid-Loaded Nanoparticles in the UV Protection and Safety Profile of Topical Sunscreens

Excessive UV radiation exposure is harmful to skin cells since sunburn is accompanied by oxidative burst, leading to a rapid increase in skin cancer. However, the insufficient UV photoprotection of approved sunscreens and the negative impact of their compositions on ecosystems and human health makes the utility of sunscreen a questionable recommendation. Therefore, discovering UV filters with significant antioxidant activity and improved topical performance and photostability is an urgent need. Recently, the use of nanosized natural molecules incorporated in sunscreens has been a scientific hot topic, as it has been suggested that they provide a synergistic effect with synthetic UV filters, improving overall SPF and antioxidant activity, higher retention on the epidermis, and less toxicity. The aim of this review was to verify the usefulness of sunscreens incorporating flavonoid-loaded nanoparticles. A literature review was performed, where original and review articles published in the last 6 years were analyzed. Formulations containing nanosized flavonoids with improved UVA photoprotection and safer toxicological profiles, associated or not with synthetic filters, are promising sunscreens and more clinical investigation must be performed to validate these findings.

Photoprotective Efficacy of the Association of Rosmarinic Acid 0.1% with Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and Avobenzone

Innovative prototype sunscreens with reduced ultraviolet (UV) filters are required to achieve safer, more effective, and more environmentally friendly formulations. Rosmarinic acid (RA) is a phenolic antioxidant and potential candidate for multifunctional sunscreens. We used RA (0.1% w/w) in combination with avobenzone (2.5% and 5.0% w/w), a UVA filter, and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (10.0% w/w), a UVB filter, to evaluate in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength, photostability, and the in vivo SPF. RA, in vitro, improved the SPF of F2 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 2.5% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w) and F3 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 5.0% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w), which also presented broad-spectrum profiles; however, no expressive effects were observed for the critical wavelength (nm). By the in vivo trial, RA showed an increment in the F3 SPF value and maintained the F2 effectiveness, even when avobenzone was at 2.5%. Nonetheless, no increase in photostability was observed. Our findings suggest that incorporating natural molecules with antioxidant activities into sunscreens could decrease the proportion of conventional UV filters in the final product, with the advantage of providing other functional properties. Further investigation of higher RA concentrations, even from other sources, and other UV filter combinations could reveal important data for the development of multifunctional sunscreens.

Phytocompounds Recovered from the Waste of Cabernet Sauvignon (Vitis vinifera L.) Vinification: Cytotoxicity (in Normal and Stressful Conditions) and In Vitro Photoprotection Efficacy in a Sunscreen System

We investigated plausible reuse for the dermocosmetic industry of byproducts from the winemaking process of red grapes (Vitis vinifera L. cv. C. Sauvignon) through the evaluation of one extract (grape pomace extract, GPE) and two fractions (one chloroform, GPE-CHF; one ethyl acetate, GPE-EAF). The samples were characterized analytically by liquid chromatography (HPLC) using a NIH 3T3 fibroblast cell culture to verify a cytosafety profile in normal and stressful environment (presence of H2O2), and by using it in a sunscreen system to observe improvements in the in vitro efficacy by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry with an integrating sphere. The HPLC results for GPE-EAF and GPE-CHF samples with the best profile of syringic and p-coumaric acids, quercetin, and trans-resveratrol were used in the further assays. GPE-EAF and GPE-CHF, both at 30.00 µg/mL, maintained the cell viability in the absence of H2O2 (normal condition). In the sequence, GPE-EAF and GPE-CHF were evaluated against the oxidative stressor H2O2 in NIH 3T3 cells. A sharp drop in viability was only observed for GPE-CHF, and cytotoxicity of GPE-EAF was considered absent even in a hostile environment. Since GPE-EAF previously developed the best results, its potential performance was investigated in a sunscreen system. The in vitro sun protection factor of the phytoderivative-free formulation was 9.0 + 2.5; by adding GPE-EAF at 10.0%, its efficacy was elevated to 15.0 + 2.5. Both samples suffered a negative effect after artificial ultraviolet exposition (500 W/m2); however, the presence of GPE-EAF improved the photostability of the sunscreen system.

Rutin bioconjugates as potential nutraceutical prodrugs: An in vitro and in ovo toxicological screening

Rutin (RUT) is considered one the most attractive flavonoids from a therapeutic perspective due to its multispectral pharmacological activities including antiradical, anti-inflammatory, antiproliferative, and antimetastatic among others. Still, this compound presents a low bioavailability what narrows its clinical applications. To overcome this inconvenience, the current paper was focused on the synthesis, characterization, and toxicological assessment of two RUT bioconjugates obtained by enzymatic esterification with oleic acid (OA) and linoleic acid (LA)—rutin oleate (RUT-O) and rutin linoleate (RUT-L), as flavonoid precursors with improved physicochemical and biological properties. Following the enzymatic synthesis in the presence of Novozyme® 435, the two bioconjugates were obtained, their formation being confirmed by RAMAN and FT-IR spectroscopy. The in vitro and in ovo toxicological assessment of RUT bioconjugates (1–100 µM) was performed using 2D consecrated cell lines (cardiomyoblasts - H9c2(2-1), hepatocytes—HepaRG, and keratinocytes—HaCaT), 3D reconstructed human epidermis tissue (EpiDerm™), and chick chorioallantoic membranes, respectively. The results obtained were test compound, concentration—and cell-type dependent, as follows: RUT-O reduced the viability of H9c2(2-1), HepaRG, and HaCaT cells at 100 µM (to 77.53%, 83.17%, and 78.32%, respectively), and induced cell rounding and floating, as well as apoptotic-like features in the nuclei of all cell lines, whereas RUT-L exerted no signs of cytotoxicity in all cell lines in terms of cell viability, morphology, and nuclear integrity. Both RUT esters impaired the migration of HepaRG cells (at 25 µM) and lack irritative potential (at 100 µM) in vitro (tissue viability >50%) and in ovo (irritation scores of 0.70 for RUT-O, and 0.49 for RUT-L, respectively). Computational predictions revealed an increased lipophilicity, and reduced solubility, drug-likeness and drug score of RUT-O and RUT-L compared to their parent compounds—RUT, OA, and LA. In conclusion, we report a favorable toxicological profile for RUT-L, while RUT-O is dosage-limited since at high concentrations were noticed cytotoxic effects.

Dietary Supplements and the Skin: Focus on Photoprotection and Antioxidant Activity—A Review

Skin health is not only significantly affected by ageing, but also by other lifestyle-related factors, such as sun exposure, exercise and eating habits, smoking or alcohol intake. It is known that the cutaneous tissue can exhibit visible signs of senescence, in the form of, for example, dull complexion, loss of firmness, or changes in pigmentation. Consumers attempt to improve skin health and appearance not only by cosmetic products, but also with the consumption of food supplements. Recently, there has been an increase in the amount of food supplements with claims that are related to skin and hair health. Nevertheless, the literature is still scarce in evidence of the efficacy of this type of products. Considering this scenario, we aim in this review to assemble studies and methodologies that are directed at the substantiation of the cutaneous health claims of food supplements. For example, we reviewed those that were indicative of antioxidant properties, improvement in pigmentation disorders, increased hydration or protection against the damages caused by ultraviolet radiation.

Prospecting In Vitro Antioxidant and Photoprotective Properties of Rosmarinic Acid in a Sunscreen System Developed by QbD Containing Octyl p-Methoxycinnamate and Bemotrizinol

Progressively growing diagnoses of skin cancer trigger public health concerns about excessive sun exposure, awareness of the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin, and the proper use of sunscreens. Studies show that bioactive molecules, such as rosmarinic acid (RA), may potentiate the photoprotective and antioxidant activity of topical formulations. This research presents the application of the concepts of quality by design (QbD) to evaluate the critical parameters of quality and the development of an optimized cosmetic formulation with RA by means of an understanding of product design space. Samples were developed using design of experiments (DoE) and they were evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity and photoprotective efficacy, as well as for photostability through artificial irradiation. We were able to achieve the RA performance regarding antioxidant and SPF properties through in vitro experiments. We obtained the equations for predicting the in vitro antioxidant activity and SPF. Considering our sunscreen system, developed with octyl p-methoxycinnamate and bemotrizinol, the presence of RA increased its antioxidant capacity; however, the in vitro SPF was reduced when both UV filters were used. The development of multifunctional sunscreens is of utmost importance; moreover, there is a need for the rational development of formulations that ensure representative statistical tests of the effects and interactions among the components of a formulation on the desired critical quality attributes, including efficacy.

Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract associated with octocrylene, bisoctrizole and titanium dioxide: in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate safety and efficacy

OBJECTIVE

The harmful effects induced by ultraviolet exposition and the significant increment in skin cancer diagnosis confirm the necessity to develop effective and safe sunscreens. Limited efficacy and cutaneous adverse reactions of traditional formulations drove the incorporation of natural extracts into multifunctional sunscreens. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract (VME), that contains anthocyanins and flavonoids, is a potential candidate for such systems.

METHODS

Considering that, we performed in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF), photostability and safety of sunscreen samples containing VME.

RESULTS

As main results, the SPF was reduced in both in vitro and in vivo evaluation in the presence of VME, nonetheless, the samples were photostable and safe.

CONCLUSION

Further investigation is required to better understand the unexpected effects of VME over photoprotection, decreasing the SPF value. As a conclusion, even with interesting findings, we highlight the importance of case-by-case investigations to develop multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

Dermocosmetic applications of microalgal pigments

Among photosynthetic microorganisms, Cyanobacteria and Microalgae species have been highly studied thank to their high value-added compounds for several industrial applications. Thus, their production is increasing in the last decade to produce raw material for cosmetics. In fact, the daily routine includes the use of cosmetics and sunscreens to protect against the environmental changes, mainly the increment of ultraviolet (UV) radiation rate with a consequent skin damage and premature aging due to this overexposure. As it is well discussed, chemical UV filters are extensively incorporated into sunscreens formulas; however, they can induce allergenic reactions as well. For these reasons, some pigments derived from microalgae, such as astaxanthin, lutein, β-carotene as well as other biocompounds are now well described in the literature as well as biotechnologically manufactured as natural ingredients to be incorporated into skin care products with multifunctional benefits even for sunscreen purposes. Hence, this investigation summarizes the recent studies about the main pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms' biomasses as well as their uses in dermocosmetics with novel attributes, such as anti-aging agents, makeups, skin lightening and whitening, among others.

Evaluating the Sun Protection Factor of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Afzelin

Exposure to UV radiation damages the skin and increases the risk of skin cancer. Sunscreen is used to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. However, the chemical UV filters used in sunscreen can show toxicity and cause allergic reactions. A safe sunscreen that includes a lower content of chemical UV filters and exerts an excellent effect on UV protection needs to be developed. The objective of this study was to investigate whether the addition of afzelin to sunscreen could improve the sun protection factor (SPF). A synergistic effect between afzelin and organic sunscreen agents including padimate O and oxybenzone was confirmed. Interestingly, 100% in vitro SPF-boosting was observed when afzelin (0.05%) was applied with a standard SPF formulation containing organic sunscreens while afzelin alone had no contribution to the SPF. In vivo SPF analysis of the standard SPF formulation showed an SPF value of 13.3 that increased to 20.1 when supplemented with afzelin (0.05%). Additionally, afzelin showed no skin irritation in a human trial. These results suggest that afzelin is useful as a natural additive in sunscreen formulations and provides an SPF-boosting effect. Afzelin supplementation to the formulation showed the potential to reduce the use of synthetic photoprotectors, which could minimize the risk of synthetic agent toxicity.

Preclinical and clinical studies to evaluate cutaneous biodistribution, safety and efficacy of UV filters encapsulated in mesoporous silica SBA-15

Innovative technologies have been designed to improve efficacy and safety of chemical UV filters. Encapsulation can enhance efficacy and reduce transdermal permeation and systemic exposure. The aims of this work were (i) to determine the cutaneous biodistribution of avobenzone (AVO), oxybenzone (OXY), and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) incorporated in mesoporous silica SBA-15 and (ii) to perform preclinical (in vitro) and (iii) clinical safety studies to demonstrate their innocuity and to evaluate sun protection factor (SPF) in humans. Skin penetration studies showed that deposition of OXY and AVO in porcine and human skin after application of stick formulation with incorporated filters (stick incorporated filters) was significantly lower than from a marketed (non-encapsulated) stick. Cutaneous deposition and transdermal permeation of OXY in and across human skin were 3.8-and 13.4- fold lower, respectively, after application of stick entrapped filters. Biodistribution results showed that encapsulation in SBA-15 decreased AVO and OXY penetration reaching porcine and human dermis. Greater deposition (and permeation) of OXY in porcine skin than in human skin, pointed to the role of follicular transport. Stick incorporated filters had good biocompatibility in vivo and safety profiles, even under sun-exposed conditions. Entrapment of UV filters improved the SPF by 26% and produced the same SPF profile as a marketed stick. Overall, the results showed that SBA-15 enabled safety and efficacy of UV filters to be increased.

Rutin Exerts Cytotoxic and Senescence-Inducing Properties in Human Melanoma Cells

Malignant melanoma represents the deadliest type of skin cancer with narrow treatment options in advanced stages. Herbal constituents possessing anticancer properties occupy a particular spot in melanoma research as potential chemotherapeutics. Rutin (RUT) is a natural compound exerting antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, UV-filtering, and SPF-enhancing activities that are beneficial to the skin; however, its effect as an anti-melanoma agent is less investigated. The current study is focused on assessing the cytotoxic potential of RUT against two different human melanoma cell lines: RPMI-7951 and SK-MEL-28 by evaluating its impact in terms of cell viability, cells’ morphology, and nuclear aspect assessment, and senescence-inducing properties. The results indicate a dose-dependent decrease in the viability of both cell lines, with calculated IC₅₀ values of 64.49 ± 13.27 µM for RPMI-7951 cells and 47.44 ± 2.41 µM for SK-MEL-28, respectively, accompanied by a visible reduction in the cell confluency and apoptotic features within the cell nuclei. RUT exerted a senescence-inducing property highlighted by the elevated expression of senescent-associated beta-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) in SK-MEL-28 cells. Despite the in vitro anti-melanoma effect revealed by our results, further studies are required to elucidate the mechanisms of RUT-induced cytotoxicity and senescence in melanoma cells.

Suppression of Sunscreen Leakage in Water by Amyloid-like Protein Aggregates

A sunscreen offers indispensable skin protection against UV damage and related skin diseases. However, due to the poor interfacial stability of sunscreen coatings on the skin, the synthetic ingredients in sunscreen creams easily fall off and enter aquatic environments, causing large ecological hazards and skin protection failure. Herein, we tackle this issue by introducing amyloid-like protein aggregates into a sunscreen to noticeably enhance the interfacial robustness of sunscreen coatings on the skin. The synthesis of such an agent to suppress sunscreen leakage can be achieved by manipulating the phase transition of bovine serum albumin (BSA) in a mild aqueous solution at room temperature. The resulting phase-transitioned BSA (PTB) aggregates effectively entrap the sunscreen ingredients to generate a uniform cream coating on the skin with robust amyloid-mediated interfacial adhesion stability. With continuous flushing in aquatic environments, such as salt water and seawater, this PTB-modified sunscreen (PTB sunscreen) coated on the skin maintains a retention ratio as high as >92%, which is 2-10 times higher than those of commercially available sunscreen products. The high retention ratio of the PTB sunscreen in aquatic environments demonstrates the great potential of amyloid-like protein aggregates in the development of leakage-free sunscreens with low ecosystem hazards and long-lasting UV protection in aquatic environments.

Functional modification of HHCB: Strategy for obtaining environmentally friendly derivatives

Galaxolide (HHCB), one of the most widely used synthetic musks in personal care products (PCPs), has been recognized as an emerging contaminant with potential human health concerns. To overcome such adverse effects, a systematic molecular design, screening and performance evaluation approach was developed to generate functionally improved and environmentally friendly HHCB derivatives. Among the 90 designed HHCB derivatives, 15 were screened with improved functional properties (i.e., odor stability and intensity) and less environmental impacts (i.e., lower bio-toxicity, bio-accumulation ability, and mobility) using 3D-QSAR models and density functional theory methods. Their human health risks were then assessed by toxicokinetic analysis, which narrowed the candidates to four. Derivative 7, the designed molecule with the least dermal adsorption potential, was evaluated for its interaction with other PCPs additives (i.e., anti-photosensitivity materials and moisturizer) and such impacts on human health risks using molecular docking and molecular dynamic simulation. The environmental fate of Derivative 7 after transformation (i.e., photodegradation, biotransformation, and chlorination) was also discussed. Biotransformation and chlorination were recognized as optimum options for Derivative 7 mitigation. This study provided the theoretical basis for the design of functionally improved and environmentally friendly HHCB alternatives and advanced the understanding of their environmental behaviors and health risks.

Hyptis mociniana: phytochemical fingerprint and photochemoprotective effect against UV-B radiation-induced erythema and skin carcinogenesis

Skin cancer is a public health problem due to its high incidence. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is the main etiological agent of this disease. Photochemoprotection involves the use of substances to avoid damage caused by UV exposure. The aim of this work was to determine the phytochemical fingerprint and photochemoprotective effect against UVB radiation-induced skin damage such as erythema and carcinogenesis of H. mociniana methanolic extract (MEHm). The chemical composition of the MEHm was analysed by LC/ESI-MS/MS. Three quercetin derivatives, two pectinolides, and two caffeic acid derivatives were identified in the methanolic extract. MEHm has antioxidant effect and it is not cytotoxic in HaCaT cells. Phytochemicals from H. mociniana have a photochemopreventive effect because they absorb UV light and protect HaCaT cells from UVR-induced cell death. Also, in SKH-1 mice -acute exposure-, it decreased erythema formation, modulating the inflammatory response, reduced the skin damage according to histological analysis and diminished p53 expression. Finally, MEHm protects from photocarcinogenesis by reducing the incidence and multiplicity of skin carcinomas in SKH-1 mice exposed chronically to UVB radiation.

Sunscreen Enhancement of Octyl Methoxycinnamate Microcapsules by Using Two Biopolymers as Wall Materials

Octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) is widely used as a chemical sunscreen in sunscreen cosmetics. However, its direct contact with the skin would bring certain risks, such as skin photosensitive reaction. How to improve the effect of skin photodamage protection has become a current research hotspot. Encapsulating ultraviolet (UV) filters into microcapsules is an interesting method to increase the photostability of filters. In this study, sodium caseinate (SC) and arabic gum (GA) are chosen as wall materials to prepare synergistic sunscreen microcapsules by complex coacervation technology. A series of experiments are conducted to investigate the effects of pH, wall material concentration, and wall/core ratio on the formation of OMC microcapsules. The morphology, composition, and stability of OMC microcapsules are characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). The OMC microcapsule is uniform in size distribution, smooth in surface morphology, and has good thermal stability. The results show that the ultraviolet absorption of the OMC microcapsules is better than that of the uncoated OMC for the ultraviolet-B (280–320 nm). Moreover, the OMC microcapsule released 40% in 12 h, while OMC released 65%, but the sun protection factor (SPF) of the OMC microcapsule sunscreen is 18.75% higher than that of OMC. This phenomenon may be attributed to the hydrophobic interaction between SC and OMC and the electrostatic interaction between SC and GA.

Natural components in sunscreens: Topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF)

Artificial sunscreens are already gaining traction in order to protect the skin from sunburns, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. However, the efficacy and safety of most artificial sunscreen constituents are hindered by their photostability, toxicity and damage to marine ecosystems. Natural selection and evolution have ensured that plants and animals have developed effective protective mechanisms against the deleterious side effects of oxidative stress and ultraviolet radiation (UV). Hence, natural antioxidants such as sun blockers are drawing considerable attention. The exact mechanism by which natural components act as sunscreen molecules has not been clearly established. However, conjugated π system is reported to play an important role in protecting the vital genetic material within the organism. Compared to artificial sunscreens, natural sunscreens with strong UV absorptive capacities are largely limited by low specific extinction value and by their inability to spread in large-scale sunscreen cosmetic applications. Previous studies have documented that natural components exert their photoprotective effects (such as improved skin elasticity and hydration, skin texture, and wrinkles) through their antioxidant effects, and through the regulation of UV-induced skin inflammation, barrier impairment and aging. This review focuses on natural antioxidant topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF). Lignin, melanin, silymarin and other ingredients have been added to high sun protection nature sunscreens without any physical or chemical UV filters. This paper also provides a reference for adopting novel technical measures (extracting high content components, changing the type of solution, optimizing formulation, applying Nano technology, et al) to design and prepare nature sunscreen formulations equated with commercial sunscreen formulations. Another strategy is to add natural antioxidants from plants, animals, microorganisms and marine organisms as special enhancer or modifier ingredients to reinforce SPF values. Although the photoprotective effects of natural components have been established, their deleterious side effects have not been elucidated.

In vivo SPF from multifunctional sunscreen systems developed with natural compounds-A review

BACKGROUND

The use of sunscreens is mandatory, especially in countries with high ultraviolet (UV) incidence. In consequence, there has been a growing interest in using compounds from natural sources to develop new multifunctional products that protect human skin from the consequences of UV exposition. Even though there are in vitro methods to determine anti-UV efficacy, it is still required to test photoprotection activity on human skin to validate product performance.

AIM AND METHODS

In this review, we summarized all reported clinical studies about sun protection factor (SPF) measurements of sunscreens with natural compounds. We also discussed the probable action mechanism of those actives.

RESULTS

Herein, we provided an overview on recent studies concerning photoprotection activity of compounds from natural sources, for example, rutin, ferulic acid, caffeine, shea butter, and plant extracts, mainly presented in sunscreen systems with efficacy clinically established by SPF.

CONCLUSION

Our review suggested that even when the in vivo SPF evaluation has inherent difficulties, it is essential to assure the real efficacy of sunscreens. Furthermore, the incorporation of natural compounds could enhance the in vivo SPF values of such sunscreens by different mechanisms. Finally, some compounds derived from natural resources with skin benefits could be used as "green"/natural UV filters that provide broad-spectrum sunscreens with further upgrading of the multifunctional dermocosmetic formulation to enhance aesthetics and even skin health.

Streptomyces-Derived Metabolites with Potential Photoprotective Properties-A Systematic Literature Review and Meta-Analysis on the Reported Chemodiversity

Sun overexposure is associated with the development of diseases that primarily affect the skin, which can lead to skin cancer. Among the main measures of photoprotection is the use of sunscreens. However, there is currently concern about the reported harmful effects to both humans and the environment due to several of the sunscreen ingredients available on the market. For this reason, the search for and development of new agents with photoprotective properties is required. In searching for these metabolites, researchers have turned their attention to microbial sources, especially the microbiota in unusual hostile environments. Among the diverse microorganisms available in nature, Actinobacteria and specifically Streptomyces, have been shown to be a source of metabolites with various biological activities of interest, such as antimicrobial, antitumor and immunomodulator activities. Herein, we present the results of a systematic review of the literature in which Streptomyces isolates were studied as a source of compounds with photoprotective properties. A meta-analysis of the structure-property and structure-activity relationships of those metabolites identified in the qualitative analysis phase was also carried out. These findings indicate that Streptomyces are a source of metabolites with potential applications in the development of new, safe and more eco-friendly sunscreens.

Another Reason for Using Caffeine in Dermocosmetics: Sunscreen Adjuvant

The excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the main cause of skin cancer, the most commonly diagnosed cancer in the world. In this context, the development of innovative and more effective sunscreens, with bioactive compounds like caffeine, displaying antioxidant and anticancer potential, is required. This research work assessed in vitro and in vivo the efficacy and safety of topical sunscreen formulations containing caffeine as an adjuvant of the UV filters. Sunscreens were prepared with 2.5% w/w caffeine or in the absence of this compound. In order to evaluate the safety of these formulations, stratum corneum hydration, skin barrier and colorimetry were assessed in vivo in healthy subjects before and after skin treatment with the samples. The efficacy of the sunscreens was assessed in vitro, using PMMA plates and a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere; and in vivo by the determination of the sun protection factor (SPF). None of the formulations caused erythema or impaired the skin barrier function. The in vitro functional characterization showed higher SPF values for the caffeine formulation. The in vivo studies also confirmed the higher SPF value of the formulation combining caffeine with the filters, compared to the caffeine-free sample. This improvement contributed to an increase of, approximately, 25% in the in vivo anti-UVB protection. In conclusion, caffeine was well tolerated by the skin and increased the photoprotective activity, being a new alternative adjuvant in sunscreens formulation.