Modulating skin colour: role of the thioredoxin and glutathione systems in regulating melanogenesis

Anilino-1,4-naphthoquinones as potent mushroom tyrosinase inhibitors: in vitro and in silico studies

Tyrosinase, a pivotal enzyme in melanin synthesis, is a primary target for the development of depigmenting agents. In this work, in vitro and in silico techniques were employed to identify novel tyrosinase inhibitors from a set of 12 anilino-1,4-naphthoquinone derivatives. Results from the mushroom tyrosinase activity assay indicated that, among the 12 derivatives, three compounds (1, 5, and 10) demonstrated the most significant inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase, surpassing the effectiveness of the kojic acid. Molecular docking revealed that all studied derivatives interacted with copper ions and amino acid residues at the enzyme active site. Molecular dynamics simulations provided insights into the stability of enzyme-inhibitor complexes, in which compounds 1, 5, and particularly 10 displayed greater stability, atomic contacts, and structural compactness than kojic acid. Drug likeness prediction further strengthens the potential of anilino-1,4-naphthoquinones as promising candidates for the development of novel tyrosinase inhibitors for the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders.

Molecular mechanisms underlying Tao-Hong-Si-Wu decoction treating hyperpigmentation based on network pharmacology, Mendelian randomization analysis, and experimental verification

CONTEXT

Hyperpigmentation, a common skin condition marked by excessive melanin production, currently has limited effective treatment options.

OBJECTIVE

This study explores the effects of Tao-Hong-Si-Wu decoction (THSWD) on hyperpigmentation and to elucidate the underlying mechanisms.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We employed network pharmacology, Mendelian randomization, and molecular docking to identify THSWD's hub targets and mechanisms against hyperpigmentation. The Cell Counting Kit-8 (CCK-8) assay determined suitable THSWD treatment concentrations for PIG1 cells. These cells were exposed to graded concentrations of THSWD-containing serum (2.5%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 30%, 40%, and 50%) and treated with α-MSH (100 nM) to induce an in vitro hyperpigmentation model. Assessments included melanin content, tyrosinase activity, and Western blotting.

RESULTS

ALB, IL6, and MAPK3 emerged as primary targets, while quercetin, apigenin, and luteolin were the core active ingredients. The CCK-8 assay indicated that concentrations between 2.5% and 20% were suitable for PIG1 cells, with a 50% cytotoxicity concentration (CC50) of 32.14%. THSWD treatment significantly reduced melanin content and tyrosinase activity in α-MSH-induced PIG1 cells, along with downregulating MC1R and MITF expression. THSWD increased ALB and p-MAPK3/MAPK3 levels and decreased IL6 expression in the model cells.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

THSWD mitigates hyperpigmentation by targeting ALB, IL6, and MAPK3. This study paves the way for clinical applications of THSWD as a novel treatment for hyperpigmentation and offers new targeted therapeutic strategies.

Components analysis of San-Bai decoction, and its pharmacodynamics and mechanism on preventing and treating melasma

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

San-Bai Decoction (SBD) is a classic whitening prescription originally recorded in the 'Introduction to Medicine' of the Ming Dynasty. SBD has been known for invigorating Qi and blood, promoting spleen and stomach, whitening skin, and fading melasma. However, its pharmacodynamic material basis and specific mechanism remain unclear.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The aim of this study is to clarify the pharmacodynamic material basis of SBD and its mechanism of removing melasma.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The positive and negative ion mass spectrum data of SBD extract were collected by UHPLC-Q-Exactive Orbitrap MS/MS, imported into Compound Discoverer (CD) 3.1 software, matched through the online database, and manually checked. Finally, the in vitro chemical components of SBD were classified. Similarly, the mass spectrum data of SBD in the serum of normal rats and melasma model rats were also analyzed by CD 3.1 software. The in vitro identified Compound file of SBD was imported into the Expected Compounds and the Generate Expected Compounds project was selected. The SBD compounds were then chosen under the Compound Section. All phase I and II reaction types related to SBD components were selected, and the metabolic platform of CD 3.1 software was utilized to process the results and obtain possible metabolites. The metabolites were scored and products with high scores were subsequently screened. According to literature comparison, the final metabolites of SBD in both normal rats and melasma model rats were determined and comprehensively analyzed. The Melasma model rats were constructed through intramuscular injection of progesterone and ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) irradiation. The preventing and treating effect of SBD on melasma were evaluated by regulating inflammation, epidermal collagen content, and oxidative stress. Additionally, the effect of SBD on the Phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K)/Protein kinase B (Akt)/Glycogen synthase kinase 3β (GSK3β) pathway was investigated through Western blot (WB) to explore its underlying mechanism on whitening and removing melasma efficacy.

RESULTS

Ultimately, 94 components were identified in SBD, including 41 flavonoids, 27 organic acids, and 9 glycosides, 3 terpenoids, 2 amides, 2 aldehydes, 1 phenylpropanoid and 9 other compounds. In the blood of normal rat group, a total of 24 prototype components and 61 metabolites were identified. Similarly, there were19 prototype components and 44 metabolites identified from the blood of melasma model rats. Pharmacodynamic experiment results indicated that SBD effectively reduced the incidence of melasma, prevent the loss of epidermal collagen, and elevate the activity of superoxide dismutase and decrease the malondialdehyde content in both liver and skin. Interestingly, the WB results demonstrated that SBD effectively activated PI3K/Akt/GSK3β pathway, and down-regulated the expression of melanin-related proteins.

CONCLUSIONS

For the first time, the components of SBD extracts, and its prototype components and metabolites in the blood of normal rats and melasma model rats were successfully identified by high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry with CD software. Additionally, the differences of in vivo components of SBD between normal rats and melasma model rats were analyzed. The preventive and therapeutic effect of SBD on melasma was verified in the melasma model rats induced by progesterone and UVB irradiation, and its mechanism was related to activating PI3K/Akt/GSK3β pathway and downregulating the expression of melanin-related proteins. These results provide an experimental foundation for further research on the pharmacodynamic substance basis and pharmacodynamic mechanism of SBD, as well as developing new anti-melasma formula with SBD.

The metabolism of melanin synthesis-From melanocytes to melanoma

Melanin synthesis involves the successful coordination of metabolic pathways across multiple intracellular compartments including the melanosome, mitochondria, ER/Golgi, and cytoplasm. While pigment production offers a communal protection from UV damage, the process also requires anabolic and redox demands that must be carefully managed by melanocytes. In this report we provide an updated review on melanin metabolism, including recent data leveraging new techniques, and technologies in the field of metabolism. We also discuss the many aspects of melanin synthesis that intersect with metabolic pathways known to impact melanoma phenotypes and behavior. By reviewing the metabolism of melanin synthesis, we hope to highlight outstanding questions and opportunities for future research that could improve patient outcomes in pigmentary and oncologic disease settings.

DEHP (di(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate) stimulates skin pigmentation by perturbing cytoskeletal homeostasis

Phthalates are extensively employed plasticizers crucial for conferring flexibility and plasticity to polyvinyl chloride. Phthalates, including DEHP (di(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate), present in diverse products, have been identified in fine dust and are capable of infiltrating the body, potentially posing health hazards. Importantly, melanocytes, existing at the basal layer of the epidermis, are susceptible to toxic substances. In our study, we employed the 3D human pigmented epidermis model, MelanoDerm™, along with the B16F10 murine melanoma cell line, to examine the influence of DEHP exposure on melanocytes. The exposure to low concentrations of DEHP (~ 5 μM), resulted in the extension of melanocyte dendrites, indicating the stimulation of melanocytes. Analysis of gene expression and protein profiles unveiled the up-regulation of MITF, Arpc2, and TRP1 genes subsequent to DEHP exposure, indicating alterations in cytoskeletal and melanosome-related genetic and protein components in melanocytes. Notably, increased pigmentation was observed in MelanoDerm™ following DEHP exposure. DEHP-stimulated reactive oxygen species generation appeared to be involved in these events since the antioxidant, ascorbic acid attenuated ROS generation and MITF upregulation. Collectively, our study demonstrated that DEHP exposure can induce cytoskeletal disturbance and skin pigmentation through oxidative stress.

Investigating the impact of pigmentation variation of breast muscle on growth traits, melanin deposition, and gene expression in Xuefeng black-bone chickens

The blackness traits, considered an important economic factor in the black-bone chicken industry, still exhibits a common phenomenon of significant difference in blackness of breast muscle. To improve this phenomenon, this study compared growth traits, blackness traits, and transcriptome of breast muscles between the High Blackness Group (H group) and Low Blackness Group (L group) in the Xuefeng black-bone chickens. The results are as follows: 1) There was no significant difference in growth traits between the H group and the L group (P > 0.05). 2) The skin/breast muscle L values in the H group were significantly lower than those in the L group, while the breast muscle melanin content exhibited the opposite trend (P < 0.05). 3) A significant negative correlation was observed between breast muscle melanin content and skin/breast muscle L value (P < 0.05), and skin L value exhibiting a significant positive correlation with breast muscle L value (P < 0.05). 4) The breast muscle transcriptome comparison between the H group and L group revealed 831 and 405 DEGs in female and male chickens, respectively. This included 37 shared DEGs significantly enriched in melanosome, pigment granule, and the melanogenesis pathway. Seven candidate genes (DCT, PMEL, MLANA, TYRP1, OCA2, EDNRB2, and CALML4) may play a crucial role in the melanin production of breast muscle in Xuefeng black-bone chicken. The findings could accelerate the breeding process for achieving desired levels of breast muscle blackness and contribute to the exploration of the mechanisms underlying melanin production in black-bone chickens.

Transient receptor potential mucolipin 1 circumvents oxidative stress in primary human melanocytes

BACKGROUND

Transient Receptor Potential Mucolipin 1 (TRPML1) serves as a pivotal reactive oxygen species (ROS) sensor in cells, which is implicated in the regulation of autophagy. However, its function in melanocyte autophagy under oxidative stress remains elusive.

METHODS

The expression and ion channel function of TRPML1 were investigated using immunofluorescence and calcium imaging in primary human melanocytes (MCs). After activating TRPML1 with MLSA1 (TRPML1 agonist), autophagy-related molecules were investigated via western blot. ROS level, apoptosis- and autophagy-related molecules were investigated after pretreatment with MLSA1. After interference with TRPML1 expression, mitochondrial structures were visualized by electron microscopy with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2）treatment.

RESULTS

TRPML1 was expressed and functionally active in primary human MCs, and its activation promotes elevated expression of LC3-II and reduced apoptosis and ROS levels under oxidative stress. TRPML1 downregulation caused mitochondrial swelling and disruption of cristae structures under oxidative stress in primary human MCs.

CONCLUSIONS

TRPML1 might mediate lysosomal autophagy in primary human MCs under oxidative stress, participating in mechanisms that maintain the oxidative and antioxidant systems in balance.

A highly soluble form of rutin for instant resolution of mask-wearing related disorders

BACKGROUND

The COVID-19 pandemic brought about a new normal, necessitating the use of personal protective equipment (PPE) like face shields, surgical masks, gloves, and goggles. However, prolonged mask-wearing introduced skin-related issues due to changes in the skin's microenvironment, including increased humidity and temperature, as well as pressure on the skin. These factors led to skin deformation, vascular issues, edema, and inflammation, resulting in discomfort and cosmetic concerns. Clinical reports quickly highlighted the consequences of long-term mask use, including increased cases of "maskne" (mask-related acne) or mask-wearing related disorders such as rosacea flare-ups, skin-barrier defects, itching, erythema, redness, hyperpigmentation, and lichenification. Some of these issues, like inflammation, oxidative stress, and poor wound healing, could be directly linked to acne-related disorders or skin hypoxia.

AIM

To address these problems, researchers turned to rutin, a well-known flavonoid with antioxidant, vasoactive, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, rutin's poor water solubility presented a challenge for cosmetic formulations. To overcome this limitation, a highly water-soluble form of rutin was developed, making it suitable for use at higher concentrations.

METHODS

In vitro and ex vivo tests were conducted, as well as an innovative clinical trial including volunteers wearing surgical masks for at least 2 h, to evaluate the biological activity of this soluble rutin on the main skin concerns associated with mask-wearing (inflammation, oxidative stress, skin repair, hyperpigmentation, and skin redness).

RESULTS

The in vitro results showed that the active ingredient significantly reduced oxidative stress, improved wound healing, and reduced inflammation. In dark skin explants, the active ingredient significantly reduced melanin content, indicating its lightening activity. This effect was confirmed in the clinical study, where brown spots decreased significantly after 4 days of application. Moreover, measurements on volunteers demonstrated a decrease in skin redness and vascularization after the active ingredient application, indicating inflammation and erythema reduction. Volunteers reported improved skin comfort.

CONCLUSION

In summary, the COVID-19 pandemic led to various skin issues associated with mask-wearing. A highly soluble form of rutin was developed, which effectively addressed these concerns by reducing inflammation, oxidative stress, and hyperpigmentation while promoting wound healing. This soluble rutin offers a promising solution for the rapid treatment of maskne-related disorders and other skin problems caused by prolonged mask use.

Skin Color Analysis of Various Body Parts (Forearm, Upper Arm, Elbow, Knee, and Shin) and Changes with Age in 53 Korean Women, Considering Intrinsic and Extrinsic Factors

Background/Objectives: Skin color is innately determined by race and other genetic factors, and it also undergoes acquired changes due to various intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Previous studies on skin color have mainly focused on the face, and research has recently expanded to other body parts. However, there is limited information about the age-dependent changes in the skin color of these body parts. The purpose of this study is to analyze the differences in skin color between various body parts and the changes in skin color of each body part with age. Methods: This study examined the skin color of 53 Korean women subjects evenly distributed in age from the 20s to 60s on several body parts: forearm, upper arm, elbow (extended or folded), knee (extended or folded), thigh, and shin. The lightness (L*), redness (a*), and yellowness (b*) were measured using a spectrophotometer, and the individual typology angle (ITA°) was calculated from the L* and b* values. The melanin index and erythema index were measured using the mexameter. Results: The results showed that the elbow skin had the lowest L* and ITA° values and the highest a* and b* values among the examined body parts, followed by the knee. The melanin index and erythema index were also high in the skin of these body parts. In the analysis of age-dependent changes in the skin color of various body parts, the forearm skin exhibited the most notable decrease in the L* and ITA° values and increases in the a* and b* values, followed by upper-arm skin. The melanin and erythema indices in the forearm also increased as the subjects aged, whereas those in the elbow and knee rather decreased with age. Conclusions: This study suggests that differences in intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging in various body parts may be expressed as different changes in skin color and raises the need for cosmetic and dermatological research to identify the physiological significance of these changes.

Thioredoxin (Trx): A redox target and modulator of cellular senescence and aging-related diseases

Thioredoxin (Trx) is a compact redox-regulatory protein that modulates cellular redox state by reducing oxidized proteins. Trx exhibits dual functionality as an antioxidant and a cofactor for diverse enzymes and transcription factors, thereby exerting influence over their activity and function. Trx has emerged as a pivotal biomarker for various diseases, particularly those associated with oxidative stress, inflammation, and aging. Recent clinical investigations have underscored the significance of Trx in disease diagnosis, treatment, and mechanistic elucidation. Despite its paramount importance, the intricate interplay between Trx and cellular senescence-a condition characterized by irreversible growth arrest induced by multiple aging stimuli-remains inadequately understood. In this review, our objective is to present a comprehensive and up-to-date overview of the structure and function of Trx, its involvement in redox signaling pathways and cellular senescence, its association with aging and age-related diseases, as well as its potential as a therapeutic target. Our review aims to elucidate the novel and extensive role of Trx in senescence while highlighting its implications for aging and age-related diseases.

Comparative transcriptome elucidates key genes and pathways related to golden phenotype of Crassostrea gigas

Marine bivalves are economically important and exhibit a remarkable diversity in shell color. The Pacific oyster Crassostrea gigas stands out as an important economic species, with the successful development of four distinct color strains through selective breeding. While previous studies have shed light on the genetic mechanism underlying color segregation, the precise molecular regulatory mechanisms responsible for shell coloration in oysters remains elusive. In this study, we confirmed that the golden phenotype is primarily attributed to pheomelanin by histological and ultrastructural observations. Additionally, we conducted a comparative transcriptome analysis of the black and golden shell color oysters to explore the potential genes and pathways contributing to the golden phenotype in C. gigas. Our results revealed a significant increase in differentially expressed genes in the golden phenotype associated with pathways such as glutathione metabolism, and calcium signaling pathway, suggesting a potential role in the synthesis of pheomelanin. Of particular note, we highlighted the potential role of two-pore channel 2 (TPC2) in modulating tyrosinase activity and melanosomal pH, ultimately determining the shade of pigmentation. Our study in this work provided a preliminary exploration of the mechanism, shedding light on the melanosome microenvironment and shell color.

(2-Methylbutyryl)shikonin Naturally Occurring Shikonin Derivative Ameliorates the α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis via ERK1/2 and p38 MAP Kinase-Mediated Down-Regulation of the MITF Transcription Factor

Cutaneous pigmentation is an important phenotypic trait whose regulation, despite recent advances, has yet to be completely elucidated. Melanogenesis, a physiological process of melanin production, is imperative for organism survival as it provides protection against the environmental insults that majorly involve sunlight-induced skin photodamage. However, immoderate melanin synthesis can cause pigmentation disorders associated with a psychosocial impact. In this study, the hypopigmentation effect of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin, a natural product present in the root extract of Lithospermum erythrorhizon, and the underlying mechanisms responsible for the inhibition of melanin synthesis in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells and C57BL/6J mice was studied. Non-cytotoxic concentrations of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin significantly repressed cellular tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in both in vitro and in vivo models (C57BL/6J mice). (2-Methylbutyryl)shikonin remarkably abolished the protein expression of MITF, tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1, and tyrosinase-related protein 2, thereby blocking the production of pigment melanin via modulating the phosphorylation status of MAPK proteins, viz., ERK1/2 and p38. In addition, specific inhibition of ERK1/2 attenuated the inhibitory effects of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin on melanin synthesis, whereas selective inhibition of p38 augmented the inhibitory effect of BSHK on melanin synthesis. Moreover, topical application of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin on C57BL/6J mouse tails remarkably induced tail depigmentation. In conclusion, with these findings, we, for the first time, report the hypopigmentation effect of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin via inhibition of cellular tyrosinase enzyme activity, subsequently ameliorating the melanin production, thereby indicating that (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin is a potential natural therapy for hyperpigmentation disorders.

Preparation of paeoniflorin-glycyrrhizic acid complex transethosome gel and its preventive and therapeutic effects on melasma

Paeoniflorin (PF) and glycyrrhizic acid (GL) have skin beautifying effects of anti-inflammation, anti-oxidation, inhibition of melanin formation, and reduction of skin pigmentation. To improve the transdermal permeability of PF and GL in transdermal drug delivery system (TDDS) and enhance their anti-melasma efficacy, PF-GL transethosome (PF-GL-TE) was prepared by ethanol injection method, and finally gelled with carbomer-940 to form PF-GL-TE gel. Consequently, the obtained PF-GL-TE is small and uniform, with an average particle size and a PDI value of about 167.9 nm and 0.102. PF-GL-TE gel showed sustained release behavior and high transdermal permeability in vitro release and transdermal tests. Meanwhile, PF-GL-TE gel played significant preventive effects on melasma induced by progesterone injection and ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) irradiation. According to the results of H&E staining and Masson staining of rat skin, PF-GL-TE gel can alleviate the skin inflammation of and reduce the loss of collagen fibers of back skin in the melasma model rats. Compared with the PF-GL mixture gel, PF-GL-TE gel significantly attenuated the oxidative damage of liver and skin by increasing the activity of SOD and reducing the content of MDA. The results of Western blot showed that PF-GL-TE gel might down-regulate melanin-related proteins expressions of MITF/TYR/TRP1 and TRP2 to prevent and treat melasma. These findings indicate that PF-GL-TE gel is an effective TDDS for delivering PF and GL into the skin, providing a promising preparation for effective prevention and treatment of melasma.

Topical glutathione amino acid precursors protect skin against environmental and oxidative stress

BACKGROUND

Although glutathione (GSH) has long been considered a master antioxidant, poor stability and bioavailability limit its application in skin protection. To overcome the challenges, Unilever R&D formulated a Glutathione Amino acid Precursors blend (named GAP) to boost GSH de novo synthesis.

OBJECTIVE

Determine whether GAP can boost GSH levels and provide skin protection against stressors.

METHODS

Normal human epidermal keratinocytes were treated with GAP, with or without stressors, namely, menadione, blue light or pollutants. Ascorbic acid was used as a benchmark. The levels of GSH, glutathione disulfide (GSSG), adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and reactive oxygen species (ROS) were quantified. A placebo-controlled clinical study was conducted on 21 female subjects who received product applications and subsequent UV radiation. Tape strip samples were collected from the subjects for GSH and GSSG quantification using ultra-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry/mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS). The UV-protective effect of GAP was investigated using ex vivo skin. Biomarkers related to DNA damage and the skin barrier were analysed using immunohistochemistry.

RESULTS

Glutathione amino acid precursors significantly increased the GSH levels and GSH/GSSG ratio in normal human epidermal keratinocytes. Menadione treatment resulted in excessive ROS production and a decline in ATP levels, which were effectively abrogated by GAP. The protective effects of GAP against menadione-induced oxidative stress were superior to those of ascorbic acid. In addition, GAP effectively protected the cells against blue light-induced ROS production and pollutant-induced ATP depletion. Topical application of the GAP formulation significantly elevated the skin GSH/GSSG ratio in a clinical study. Ex vivo skin treated with the GAP formulation displayed a reduction in DNA damage and high levels of barrier proteins after UV exposure.

CONCLUSIONS

Glutathione amino acid precursors effectively increases cellular GSH levels to protect the skin from oxidative and environmental stresses.

Glutathione amino acid precursors protect skin from UVB-induced damage and improve skin tone

BACKGROUND

UV radiation exposure causes skin irritation, erythema, darkening and barrier disruption by inducing oxidative stress and inflammation. Glutathione, a master antioxidant, plays an important role in the antioxidant defence network of the skin.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to assess the in vitro protective effects of the glutathione amino acid precursors blend (GAP) on transcriptomic and phenotypic endpoints against UVB-induced challenges.

METHODS

Normal human epidermal melanocytes (NHEMs) were exposed to GAP, ascorbic acid (AA) and its derivatives. Viability was assessed using the CCK8 method. Melakutis®, a pigmented living skin equivalent (pLSE) model, underwent repeated 50 mJ/cm2 UVB irradiation with or without GAP treatment. Images of the model were captured with consistent camera parameters, and the model's light intensity was measured using a spectrophotometer. Melanin content was determined by measuring absorbance at 405 nm. Confirmation of melanin deposition and distribution was achieved through Fontana-Masson staining. Transcriptomic analysis was conducted using RNA sequencing (RNA-Seq), and a machine learning approach was employed for transcriptomic aging clock analysis.

RESULTS

In NHEMs, all tested compounds exhibited over 85% viability compared to the vehicle control, indicating no heightened risk of cytotoxicity. Notably, GAP demonstrated greater efficacy in inhibiting melanin production than AA derivatives at equivalent concentrations. In pLSE models, GAP notably enhanced model lightness, and reduced melanin content and deposition following the UVB challenge, whereas AA showed minimal impact. GAP effectively counteracted UVB-induced alterations in gene expression linked to pigmentation, inflammation and aging. Moreover, recurrent UVB exposure substantially elevated the biological age of pLSE models, a phenomenon mitigated by GAP treatment.

CONCLUSIONS

In NHEMs, GAP exhibited enhanced effectiveness in inhibiting melanin production at identical tested doses in comparison to AA derivatives. Noteworthy protective effects of GAP against UVB irradiation were observed in the pLSE models, as evidenced by skin pigmentation measurements and transcriptomic changes.

Glutathione and glutathione-dependent enzymes: From biochemistry to gerontology and successful aging

The tripeptide glutathione (GSH), namely γ-L-glutamyl-L-cysteinyl-glycine, is an ubiquitous low-molecular weight thiol nucleophile and reductant of utmost importance, representing the central redox agent of most aerobic organisms. GSH has vital functions involving also antioxidant protection, detoxification, redox homeostasis, cell signaling, iron metabolism/homeostasis, DNA synthesis, gene expression, cysteine/protein metabolism, and cell proliferation/differentiation or death including apoptosis and ferroptosis. Various functions of GSH are exerted in concert with GSH-dependent enzymes. Indeed, although GSH has direct scavenging antioxidant effects, its antioxidant function is substantially accomplished by glutathione peroxidase-catalyzed reactions with reductive removal of H2O2, organic peroxides such as lipid hydroperoxides, and peroxynitrite; to this antioxidant activity also contribute peroxiredoxins, enzymes further involved in redox signaling and chaperone activity. Moreover, the detoxifying function of GSH is basically exerted in conjunction with glutathione transferases, which have also antioxidant properties. GSH is synthesized in the cytosol by the ATP-dependent enzymes glutamate cysteine ligase (GCL), which catalyzes ligation of cysteine and glutamate forming γ-glutamylcysteine (γ-GC), and glutathione synthase, which adds glycine to γ-GC resulting in GSH formation; GCL is rate-limiting for GSH synthesis, as is the precursor amino acid cysteine, which may be supplemented as N-acetylcysteine (NAC), a therapeutically available compound. After its cell export, GSH is degraded extracellularly by the membrane-anchored ectoenzyme γ-glutamyl transferase, a process occurring, as GSH synthesis and export, in the γ-glutamyl cycle. GSH degradation occurs also intracellularly by the cytoplasmic enzymatic ChaC family of γ-glutamyl cyclotransferase. Synthesis and degradation of GSH, together with its export, translocation to cell organelles, utilization for multiple essential functions, and regeneration from glutathione disulfide by glutathione reductase, are relevant to GSH homeostasis and metabolism. Notably, GSH levels decline during aging, an alteration generally related to impaired GSH biosynthesis and leading to cell dysfunction. However, there is evidence of enhanced GSH levels in elderly subjects with excellent physical and mental health status, suggesting that heightened GSH may be a marker and even a causative factor of increased healthspan and lifespan. Such aspects, and much more including GSH-boosting substances administrable to humans, are considered in this state-of-the-art review, which deals with GSH and GSH-dependent enzymes from biochemistry to gerontology, focusing attention also on lifespan/healthspan extension and successful aging; the significance of GSH levels in aging is considered also in relation to therapeutic possibilities and supplementation strategies, based on the use of various compounds including NAC-glycine, aimed at increasing GSH and related defenses to improve health status and counteract aging processes in humans.

Analysis of the antimelanogenic activity of zinc and selenium in vitro

Melasma is an acquired chronic condition characterized by hyperchromic patches in photo-exposed areas. The search for new compounds for the treatment of melasma without side effects is constant. In this context, the aim of this study was to investigate the in vitro cytotoxic and antimelanogenic effects of the trace elements Zinc (Zn) and Selenium (Se). In this study, we evaluated the effects of 30 µM hydroquinone, this concentration did not alter mitochondrial function (MTT assay), but increased the percentage of necrotic cells and levels of reactive species. Furthermore, it showed no influence on tyrosinase activity and melanin content. Unlike hydroquinone, exposure for 48 h to 100 µM Zn and 1 and 5 µM Se had no significant influence on the analysis of reactive species, as well as on the percentage of necrotic cells. Still, specifically in relation to 100 µM Zn, it decreased the melanin content. Given the above, the trace elements Zn and Se did not show toxicity at the concentrations tested and Zn showed a promising effect, however, the mechanism needs to be better explored in order to contribute to new and updated research in the fight against melasma with a perspective of therapeutic use.

Oxidative Stress and Potential Antioxidant Therapies in Vitiligo: A Narrative Review

Vitiligo is a chronic skin disorder characterised by the loss of melanocytes and subsequent skin depigmentation. Although many theories have been proposed in the literature, none alone explains the pathogenesis of vitiligo. Oxidative stress has been identified as a potential factor in the pathogenesis of vitiligo. A growing body of evidence suggests that antioxidant therapies may offer a promising approach to managing this condition. This review summarises the potential mechanisms of oxidative stress and the types of melanocyte death in vitiligo. We also provide a brief overview of the most commonly studied antioxidants. Melanocytes in vitiligo are thought to be damaged by an accumulation of reactive oxygen species to destroy the structural and functional integrity of their DNA, lipids, and proteins. Various causes, including exogenous and endogenous stress factors, an imbalance between prooxidants and antioxidants, disruption of antioxidant pathways, and gene polymorphisms, lead to the overproduction of reactive oxygen species. Although necroptosis, pyroptosis, ferroptosis, and oxeiptosis are newer types of cell death that may contribute to the pathophysiology of vitiligo, apoptosis remains the most studied cell death mechanism in vitiligo. According to studies, vitamin E helps to treat lipid peroxidation of the skin caused by psoralen ultra-violet A treatment. In addition, Polypodium leucotomos increased the efficacy of psoralen ultra-violet A or narrow-band ultraviolet B therapy. Our review provides valuable insights into the potential role of oxidative stress in pathogenesis and antioxidant-based supporting therapies in treating vitiligo, offering a promising avenue for further research and the development of effective treatment strategies.

Anti-Browning Effect of 2-Mercaptobenzo[d]imidazole Analogs with Antioxidant Activity on Freshly-Cut Apple Slices and Their Highly Potent Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activity

Ten 2-mercaptobenzimidazole (2-MBI) analogs were synthesized as potential tyrosinase inhibitors because mercapto-containing compounds can bind to copper ions at the active site of tyrosinase to inhibit enzyme activity. Nine 2-MBI analogs showed sub-micromolar IC50 values for mushroom tyrosinase monophenolase activity; analog 4 was 280-fold more potent than kojic acid, and in diphenolase activity, 6 was 970-fold more potent than kojic acid. The inhibition mode of the 2-MBI analogs was investigated using kinetic studies supported by docking simulations. Benzimidazoles without the 2-mercapto substituent of the 2-MBI analogs lost their tyrosinase inhibitory activity, implying that the 2-mercapto substituent plays an important role in tyrosinase inhibition. The 2-MBI analogs exerted potent antioxidant effects against 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS), 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and reactive oxygen species (ROS). The results obtained from apple slices and human embryonic kidney cells (HEK-293) suggest that most 2-MBI analogs are sufficiently safe candidates to delay the browning of apple slices effectively. Thus, these results support the potential use of 2-MBI analogs as anti-browning agents in foods such as mushrooms, vegetables, and fruits.

Protective Effects of ζ-Carotene-like Compounds against Acute UVB-Induced Skin Damage

The previous study successfully established an expression strain of ζ-carotene-like compounds (CLC) and demonstrated its remarkable antioxidant activity, which exhibited resistance to photodamage caused by UVB radiation on the skin following gavage administration. The objective of this study was to investigate the impact and mechanism of CLC on UVB-induced skin damage through topical application. Cell viability, anti-apoptotic activity, ROS scavenging ability, the inhibition of melanin synthesis, the regulation of inflammatory factors and collagen deposition were assessed in cells and mice using qRT-PCR, WB, Elisa assays, immunohistochemistry staining and biochemical kits, etc. The experimental results demonstrated that CLC-mitigated apoptosis induced by UVB irradiation up-regulated the Keap1/Nrf2/ARE antioxidant pathway to attenuate levels of ROS and inflammatory factors (NF-κB, TNF-α, IL-6 and IL-β), and suppressed MAPK/AP-1 and CAMP/PKA/CREB signaling pathways to mitigate collagen degradation, skin aging and melanin formation. In conclusion, this study underscored the potential of CLC as a safe and efficacious source of antioxidants, positioning it as a promising ingredient in the formulation of cosmetics targeting anti-aging, skin brightening and sunburn repair.

Baicalein Inhibits α-Melanocyte-stimulating Hormone-stimulated Melanogenesis via p38 Mitogen-activated Protein Kinase Pathway in B16F10 Mouse Melanoma Cells

Excessive UVB exposure causes development of both malignant and non-malignant melanoma via the secretion of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH). We investigated whether baicalein (5,6,7-trihydroxyflavone) could inhibit α-MSH-stimulated melanogenesis. Baicalein prevented UVB- and α-MSH-induced melanin production and attenuated α-MSH-stimulated tyrosinase (monophenol monooxygenase) activity, and expression of tyrosinase and tyrosine-related protein-2. In addition, baicalein prevented melanogenesis and pigmentation via the p38 mitogen-activated protein kinases signaling pathway. These findings suggest that baicalein represents a natural compound for attenuating melanogenesis.

Myocardial Glutathione Synthase and TRXIP Expression Are Significantly Elevated in Hypertension and Diabetes: Influence of Stress on Antioxidant Pathways

Antioxidant protection is one of the key reactions of cardiomyocytes (CMCs) in response to myocardial damage of various origins. The thioredoxin interacting protein (TXNIP) is an inhibitor of thioredoxin (TXN). Over the recent few years, TXNIP has received significant attention due to its wide range of functions in energy metabolism. In the present work, we studied the features of the redox-thiol systems, in particular, the amount of TXNIP and glutathione synthetase (GS) as markers of oxidative damage to CMCs and antioxidant protection, respectively. This study was carried out on 38-week-old Wistar-Kyoto rats with insulin-dependent diabetes mellitus (DM) induced by streptozotocin, on 38- and 57-week-old hypertensive SHR rats and on a model of combined hypertension and DM (38-week-old SHR rats with DM). It was found that the amount of TXNIP increased in 57-week-old SHR rats, in diabetic rats and in SHR rats with DM. In 38-week-old SHR rats, the expression of TXNIP significantly decreased. The expression of GS was significantly higher compared with the controls in 57-week-old SHR rats, in DM rats and in the case of the combination of hypertension and DM. The obtained data show that myocardial damage caused by DM and hypertension are accompanied by the activation of oxidative stress and antioxidant protection.

Anti-Aging and Depigmentation Effect of a Hyaluronic Acid Mechanically Stabilized Complex on Human Skin Explants

Solar radiation and environmental pollutants are factors that cause changes in the skin that trigger skin aging. The objective of the study is to evaluate the rejuvenating effects of a complex formed by hyaluronic acid supplemented with vitamins, amino acids and oligopeptides in explants of human skin. For this, surplus skin samples have been obtained from donors that have been resected and cultivated on slides with membrane inserts. The complex was administered to some skin explants and the percentage of cells with low, medium and high levels of melanin was evaluated as an indicator of the degree of pigmentation. Other skin segments were irradiated with UVA/UVB, then the product was administered on several slides and the levels of collagen, elastin, sulfated GAG and MMP1 were evaluated. The results show that the administration of the complex significantly reduces the percentage of skin cells with a high melanin content by 16%, and that in skin irradiated with UVA/UVB, there is a decrease in the content of collagen, elastin and sulfate GAGs, and the complex reverses this reduction without changing MMP1 levels. This suggests that the compound has anti-aging and depigmentation effects on the skin, giving a skin rejuvenation appearance.

Serum metabolomic profile of hair dye use

The International Agency for Research on Cancer reported that some chemicals in hair dyes are probably carcinogenic to those exposed to them occupationally. Biological mechanisms through which hair dye use may be related to human metabolism and cancer risk are not well-established. We conducted the first serum metabolomic examination comparing hair dye users and nonusers in the Alpha-Tocopherol, Beta-Carotene Cancer Prevention Study. Metabolite assays were conducted using ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry. The association between metabolite levels and hair dye use was estimated using linear regression, adjusting for age, body mass index, smoking, and multiple comparisons. Among the 1,401 detected metabolites, 11 compounds differed significantly between the two groups, including four amino acids and three xenobiotics. Redox-related glutathione metabolism was heavily represented, with L-cysteinylglycine disulfide showing the strongest association with hair dye (effect size (β) =  -  0.263; FDR adjusted p-value = 0.0311), along with cysteineglutathione disulfide (β =  - 0.685; FDR adjusted p-value = 0.0312). 5alpha-Androstan-3alpha,17beta-diol disulfate was reduced in hair dye users (β =  - 0.492; FDR adjusted p-value = 0.077). Several compounds related to antioxidation/ROS and other pathways differed significantly between hair dye users and nonusers, including metabolites previously associated with prostate cancer. Our findings suggest possible biological mechanisms through which the use of hair dye could be associated with human metabolism and cancer risk.

Antioxidant Potential-Rich Betel Leaves (Piper betle L.) Exert Depigmenting Action by Triggering Autophagy and Downregulating MITF/Tyrosinase In Vitro and In Vivo

Each individual has a unique skin tone based on the types and quantities of melanin pigment, and oxidative stress is a key element in melanogenesis regulation. This research sought to understand the in vitro and in vivo antioxidant and depigmenting properties of betel leaves (Piper betle L.) extract (PBL) and the underlying mechanism. Ethyl acetate fractions of PBL (PBLA) demonstrated excellent phenolic content (342 ± 4.02 mgGAE/g) and strong DPPH, ABTS radicals, and nitric oxide (NO) scavenging activity with an IC₅₀ value of 41.52 ± 1.02 μg/mL, 45.60 ± 0.56 μg/mL, and 51.42 ± 1.25 μg/mL, respectively. Contrarily, ethanolic extract of PBL (PBLE) showed potent mushroom, mice, and human tyrosinase inhibition activity (IC₅₀ = 7.72 ± 0.98 μg/mL, 20.59 ± 0.83 μg/mL and 24.78 ± 0.56 μg/mL, respectively). According to gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, PBL is abundant in caryophyllene, eugenol, O-eugenol, 3-Allyl-6-methoxyphenyl acetate, and chavicol. An in vitro and in vivo investigation showed that PBLE suppressed tyrosinase (Tyr), tyrosinase-related protein-1 and -2 (Trp-1 and Trp-2), and microphthalmia-associated transcription factors (MITF), decreasing the formation of melanin in contrast to the untreated control. PBLE reduced the cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) response to an element-binding protein (CREB) phosphorylation by preventing the synthesis of cAMP. Additionally, it activates c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) and p38 mitogen-activated protein kinases (p38), destroying Tyr and MITF and avoiding melanin production. Higher levels of microtubule-associated protein-light chain 3 (LC3-II), autophagy-related protein 5 (Atg5), Beclin 1, and lower levels of p62 demonstrate that PBLE exhibits significant anti-melanogenic effects via an autophagy-induction mechanism, both in vitro and in vivo. Additionally, PBLE significantly reduced the amount of lipid peroxidation while increasing the activity of several antioxidant enzymes in vivo, such as catalase, glutathione, superoxide dismutase, and thioredoxin. PBLE can therefore be employed in topical formulations as a potent skin-whitening agent.

Inflammatory response: The target for treating hyperpigmentation during the repair of a burn wound

Hyperpigmentation is a common complication in patients with burn injuries during wound healing; however, the mechanisms underlying its occurrence and development remain unclear. Recently, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) was found to result from overproduction of melanin. Local or systemic inflammatory responses are often observed in patients who develop hyperpigmentation. However, we lack studies on the relationship between PIH and burn injury. Therefore, we comprehensively reviewed the existing literature on the melanogenesis of the skin, inflammatory mechanisms in pigmentation, and local or systemic alteration in inflammatory cytokines in patients suffering from burn trauma to elucidate the relationship between PIH and burn injury. We believe that this review will guide further research on regulating melanin production in the burn management process.

Sesquiterpenoids from Seriphidium transiliense and Their Melanogenic Activity

A sesquiterpenoid with an unprecedented 5/5/4 tricyclic skeleton (1), a nor-sesquiterpenoid with a rare 6/7 bicyclic skeleton (2), 10 new sesquiterpenoids (3-12), and six known analogues (13-18) were isolated from the whole plants of Seriphidium transiliense. The structures of compounds 1-12 were elucidated by spectroscopic data analysis. Compound 7 showed melanogenic promotion activity in murine melanoma (B16) cells more potent than the positive control used, 8-methoxypsoralen (8-MOP). Further mechanistic studies indicated that compound 7 promotes melanogenesis through activating the transcription of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase family genes in B16 cells. Moreover, compound 7 also inhibited the expression of IFN-γ-chemokine through the JAK/STAT signaling pathway in immortalized human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells. These results suggest that the sesquiterpenoid 7 shows potential activity for treating vitiligo.

Anserine/Carnosine-Rich Extract from Thai Native Chicken Suppresses Melanogenesis via Activation of ERK Signaling Pathway

Skin hyperpigmentation is an aesthetic problem that leads to psychosocial issues. Thus, skin whitening agents from agro- and poultry-industrial co-products are considered high economic value ingredients of interest for sustainable application. Therefore, this study aimed to determine the cosmeceutical potential of anserine/carnosine-rich chicken extract (ACCE) from the Thai native chicken Pradu Hang Dam Mor Kor 55 (PD) meat. The chemical composition was identified and quantified using the HPLC-UV method. Then, the antioxidation potential of the extract was compared to that of L-anserine and L-carnosine, using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl assay and shikonin-induced production of reactive oxygen species in CCD-986Sk cell models, and the anti-melanogenesis effect in the MNT-1 melanoma cell line model was investigated. Furthermore, related mechanisms were identified using colorimetric tyrosinase assay and the Western blot technique. The ACCE was composed of L-anserine and L-carnosine as two major constituents. In a dose-dependent manner, ACCE, L-anserine, and L-carnosine manifested significant antioxidation potential and significant reduction of melanin production. Activation of the extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) signaling pathway and inhibition of tyrosinase activity of ACCE were demonstrated as the mechanisms of the anti-melanogenesis effect. In conclusion, ACCE has been revealed as a potential cosmeceutical agent due to its antioxidation and anti-melanogenic activity in association with L-anserine and L-carnosine composition and biomolecular regulating ability. Therefore, further studies and development should be considered to support the utilization of anserine/carnosine-rich chicken extract in the cosmetic industry for economic value creation and sustainability.

Melanocytotoxic chemicals and their toxic mechanisms

Melanocyte cell death can lead to various melanocyte-related skin diseases including vitiligo and leukoderma. Melanocytotoxic chemicals are one of the most well-known causes of nongenetic melanocyte-related diseases, which induce melanocyte cell death through apoptosis. Various chemicals used in cosmetics, medicine, industry and food additives are known to induce melanocyte cell death, which poses a significant risk to the health of consumers and industrial workers. This review summarizes recently reported melanocytotoxic chemicals and their mechanisms of toxicity in an effort to provide insight into the development of safer chemicals.

5G Electromagnetic Radiation Attenuates Skin Melanogenesis In Vitro by Suppressing ROS Generation

Recently, the impacts of 5G electromagnetic radiation (EMR) with 28 GHz on human health have been attracting public attention with the advent of 5G wireless communication. Here, we report that 5G (28 GHz) EMR can attenuate the skin pigmentation in murine melanoma cells (B16F10) and a 3D pigmented human epidermis model (Melanoderm™). B16 cells were exposed to 5G (28 GHz) with or without α-MSH for 4 h per day. Interestingly, 5G attenuated α-MSH-induced melanin synthesis. Fontana-Masson staining confirmed that the dendritic formation of α-MSH stimulated B16 cells was diminished by 5G exposure. To confirm the anti-melanogenic effect of 5G EMR, MelanoDerm™ was irradiated with 5G at a power intensity of 10 W/m² for 4 h a day for 16 days and melanin distribution was detected with Fontana-Masson staining, which supported the anti-melanogenic effect of 5G EMR. Consistently, 5G EMR suppressed α-MSH induced upregulation of melanogenic enzymes; tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2. Of note, 5G EMR attenuated ROS production stimulated by α-MSH and H₂O₂, suggesting that 5G EMR may dissipate ROS generation, which is pivotal for the melanin synthesis. Collectively, we demonstrated that 5G EMR can attenuate skin pigmentation by attenuating ROS generation.

Changes in the Oxidation-Reduction State of Human Dermal Fibroblasts as an Effect of Lomefloxacin Phototoxic Action

Phototoxicity induced by antibiotics is a real problem in health care. The discontinuation of antibiotic therapy due to a phototoxic reaction can lead to the development of resistant strains. Fluoroquinolones are widely used antibiotics that exhibit phototoxic activity under UVA radiation. The purpose of the study was to examine the redox status of human dermal fibroblasts exposed to UVA radiation and treated with lomefloxacin, the most phototoxic fluoroquinolone. Lomefloxacin alone was found to have an antiproliferative activity on fibroblasts by affecting the cell cycle. In addition, the drug caused a redox imbalance associated with the decreased expression of catalase and glutathione peroxidase. UVA radiation increased the drug cytotoxicity and oxidative stress induced by lomefloxacin. The decrease in cell viability was accompanied by a high level of reactive oxygen species and extensive changes in the antioxidant levels. The revealed data indicate that the phototoxic action of lomefloxacin results from both increased reactive oxygen species production and an impaired antioxidant defense system. Considering all of the findings, it can be concluded that lomefloxacin-induced phototoxic reactions are caused by an oxidoreductive imbalance in skin cells.

Role of Phytochemicals in Skin Photoprotection via Regulation of Nrf2

Ethnopharmacological studies have become increasingly valuable in the development of botanical products and their bioactive phytochemicals as novel and effective preventive and therapeutic strategies for various diseases including skin photoaging and photodamage-related skin problems including abnormal pigmentation and inflammation. Exploring the roles of phytochemicals in mitigating ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced skin damage is thus of importance to offer insights into medicinal and ethnopharmacological potential for development of novel and effective photoprotective agents. UVR plays a role in the skin premature aging (or photoaging) or impaired skin integrity and function through triggering various biological responses of skin cells including apoptosis, oxidative stress, DNA damage and inflammation. In addition, melanin produced by epidermal melanocytes play a protective role against UVR-induced skin damage and therefore hyperpigmentation mediated by UV irradiation could reflect a sign of defensive response of the skin to stress. However, alteration in melanin synthesis may be implicated in skin damage, particularly in individuals with fair skin. Oxidative stress induced by UVR contributes to the process of skin aging and inflammation through the activation of related signaling pathways such as the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein-1 (AP-1), the phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K)/protein kinase B (Akt), the nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) and the signal transducer and activator of transcription (STAT) in epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. ROS formation induced by UVR also plays a role in regulation of melanogenesis in melanocytes via modulating MAPK, PI3K/Akt and the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R)-microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) signaling cascades. Additionally, nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)-regulated antioxidant defenses can affect the major signaling pathways involved in regulation of photoaging, inflammation associated with skin barrier dysfunction and melanogenesis. This review thus highlights the roles of phytochemicals potentially acting as Nrf2 inducers in improving photoaging, inflammation and hyperpigmentation via regulation of cellular homeostasis involved in skin integrity and function. Taken together, understanding the role of phytochemicals targeting Nrf2 in photoprotection could provide an insight into potential development of natural products as a promising strategy to delay skin photoaging and improve skin conditions.

Metabolic Basis and Clinical Evidence for Skin Lightening Effects of Thiol Compounds

Melanin pigment is a major factor in determining the color of the skin, and its abnormal increase or decrease can cause serious pigmentation disorders. The melanin pigment of the skin is divided into light pheomelanin and dark eumelanin, and a big difference between them is whether they contain sulfur. Melanin synthesis starts from a common reaction in which tyrosine or dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) is oxidized by tyrosinase (TYR) to produce dopaquinone (DQ). DQ is spontaneously converted to leukodopachrome and then oxidized to dopachrome, which enters the eumelanin synthesis pathway. When DQ reacts with cysteine, cysteinyl dopa is generated, which is oxidized to cysteinyl DQ and enters the pheomelanin synthesis pathway. Therefore, thiol compounds can influence the relative synthesis of eumelanin and pheomelanin. In addition, thiol compounds can inhibit enzymatic activity by binding to copper ions at the active site of TYR, and act as an antioxidant scavenging reactive oxygen species and free radicals or as a modulator of redox balance, thereby inhibiting overall melanin synthesis. This review will cover the metabolic aspects of thiol compounds, the role of thiol compounds in melanin synthesis, comparison of the antimelanogenic effects of various thiol compounds, and clinical trials on the skin lightening efficacy of thiol compounds. We hope that this review will help identify the advantages and disadvantages of various thiol compounds as modulators of skin pigmentation and contribute to the development of safer and more effective strategies for the treatment of pigmentation disorders.

Taxifolin as a Promising Ingredient of Cosmetics for Adult Skin

Active substances, effective in the reduction in or delay of skin changes caused by aging occurring in natural compounds, are desirable. Taxifolin (TXF), a flavonoid of strong antioxidant activity found in the plant Stizolophus balsamita (S. balsamita), has been tested for its biological effects on adult human skin. The aim of the study was to investigate the effects of two creams: 3% S. balsamita extract and 3% TXF on the function of adult skin. In total, 97 Caucasian women with clinical signs of skin aging were investigated. The biophysical and biomechanical skin parameters were measured before and after applying the creams, using Colorimeter CL400, Mexameter MX16, Skin-pH-Meter PH900, Skin-Thermometer ST 500, Glossymeter GL200, and Cutiscan SC100. Patch tests were performed with the investigated products to assess their potential irritant properties. The percutaneous penetration of creams was examined with the use of electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ESI-MS) and confocal Raman spectroscopy. The 3% S. balsamita extract cream reduced hyperpigmentation, erythema, and elevated pH. All the tested preparations were proven to be nonirritant. A higher penetration rate was revealed for the 3% TXF cream than for the 3% S. balsamita extract cream. A total of 3% TXF cream improved skin viscoelasticity. The obtained results suggested that S. balsamita extract and TXF may be considered as ingredients of skincare products for adults.

Antioxidant and Anti-Melanogenic Activities of Heat-Treated Licorice (Wongam, Glycyrrhiza glabra × G. uralensis) Extract

Melanin is a brown or black pigment that protects skin from ultraviolet radiation and reactive oxygen species (ROS). However, overproduction of melanin is associated with lentigines, melasma, freckles and skin cancer. Licorice has shown antioxidant, anti-tumor, anti-platelet, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory activities and is used as a natural treatment for skin whitening. We aimed to confirm the potential of Wongam, a new cultivar of licorice developed by the Rural Development Administration (RDA), as a whitening agent in cosmetics. In addition, we verified the effect of heat treatment on the bioactivity of licorice by comparing antioxidant and anti-melanogenic activities of licorice extract before and after heating (130 °C). The heat-treated licorice extract (WH-130) showed higher radical-scavenging activities in the ABTS⁺ (2,2′-azino-bis-(3-ethylbenzothiazolin-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt) and DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) assays. In addition, WH-130 inhibited melanogenesis more effectively due to downregulation of tyrosinase in B16F10 melanoma cells than non-heated licorice extract. Moreover, heat treatment increased total phenolic content. In particular, isoliquiritigenin, an antioxidant and anti-melanogenic compound of licorice, was produced by heat treatment. In conclusion, WH-130, with increased levels of bioactive phenolics such as isoliquiritigenin, has potential for development into a novel skin whitening material with applications in cosmetics.